South America

Hi everyone, Our travel plans to Brazil in October are moving forward. Now we're looking for the best way to put it all together. Starting from Montpellier, probably connecting through CDG, arriving in Salvador de Bahia, stopping in Belo Horizonte, then a flight to Rio, and the return trip. How can we manage to finalize such a circular flight? Thanks in advance for your tips. Best, Serge

Hi there, We’ll be staying in Salta in September and plan to take the "Tren a las Nubes." Should we book from France, or will it be possible to buy our tickets on the day of departure? Will the price be different? We’re hesitating between the bus-train option from Salta (long trip) or just taking the train from San Antonio de los Cobres, which would mean renting a car to get there. What do you recommend? Thanks for your great tips!

Hi everyone, With a friend, we’re planning a big trip to South America from January to mid-April 2026. Our planned itinerary:

Argentina Chile Brazil (for Rio’s Carnival) Peru Then heading to Costa Rica to wrap up the trip.

We don’t have a precise route yet, but here are the key stops we’d absolutely love to include:

Iguazu Falls (Foz de Iguaçu) Patagonia (especially the Perito Moreno Glacier) Atacama Desert Rio Carnival Machu Picchu

This is our first time taking a trip of this scale, and we’d love some advice from more experienced travelers. To narrow it down, here are the main things we’re worried about:

1. Travel agency

For a trip this big, do you think a travel agency is helpful, or is it better to organize everything ourselves? If so, which ones would you recommend for a tight budget? We were considering G Adventures for parts of the trip. Any feedback on them?

2. Practical tips and money

For luggage, would you recommend a small rolling suitcase or a big backpack?

About payments: Is it easy to pay by card, or is cash the way to go? If cash is king, how do you manage your budget—do you use services like Western Union for transfers? Currency exchange: Is it easy to exchange money on the spot? Which places are best for that? For costs, what’s a reasonable monthly budget for average travelers?

3. Accommodation

Is it easy to find hotels/hostels on the fly, or is it better to book a few days/weeks in advance (especially in high season)?

4. Transportation

Same question for buses: Can you buy tickets the same day, or should you book a few days/weeks (or even months) ahead for certain routes? Any recommendations for reliable companies between these countries and within them?

5. Phone service

How do you handle mobile networks, especially when crossing borders? Do you need a SIM card per country? Are there plans that cover multiple countries? Are eSIMs available? What’s the best way to set it up? Thanks in advance for your tips and experiences! We’re all ears for any great tips, hacks, or pitfalls to avoid.

Hello, I’m currently in Belém (Brazil) and I’m planning to take a boat to Manaus (I’ll first go to Santarém in 3 days). I’d love to get some info and contacts in Manaus for hiking, canoe trips, and more. Thanks a bunch!

Hi everyone, I know arachnophobes will get why I’m asking this: is it reasonable to hope to travel for a month in this country without running into a tarantula? And a follow-up question—since I’m traveling with a friend who’s terrified of seeing a snake—do you often come across reptiles? Thanks in advance for your answers!

I’m heading to Argentina for a month in September. Any tips on exchanging money? Can you still exchange currency on the street like before the political events? Thanks for your great tips

Hello everyone, we’re finishing a cruise from Marseille to Valparaiso on the morning of December 23, and we’re flying out of Santiago on the 27th around noon. What do you recommend we visit in such a short time, and how? Do you also have any tips for accommodation? We were thinking of spending 2 days in Valparaiso and 2 days in Santiago. And what about transportation between the two cities? A little detail: We’re an older couple, 80 and 81 years old! We still walk well, but we’re not polyglots. Luckily, we’ll have Google Translate and an eSIM card! This trip is kind of our 60th wedding anniversary. Thanks to everyone. Mado and Maurice.

Hi there, We’ll be in Argentina for 24 days starting mid-September 2025. I’m not sure where to go for this time of year—is Patagonia doable? Iguazu without a doubt, Salta, Peninsula Valdes to see the wildlife? Can we see penguins at that time? We love hiking, thanks for your tips!

Hi there,

I’m sharing a link to the online site for all gas stations in Chile.

It can be really useful because it shows not only their locations but also the current prices per liter. The site is run by Chile’s National Energy Commission.

https://www.bencinaenlinea.cl/

This info is especially important for those traveling through remote and isolated areas like the high plateaus of the far north, the Austral Highway, Patagonia, and Tierra del Fuego.

Have a great trip and stay safe out there!

Thierry

Hi there,

I recently saw that you need to register your phone on a specific website one week before leaving.

Since the trip will last less than a month, is this necessary, please?

Also, do I need to do this only for the phone that will have a local SIM card? Or do I also need to do it for my phone that will probably have an eSIM?

With a local SIM or eSIM, will we still be able to use our French SIM card with an international plan?

Thanks,

Odile

Hello everyone! July 5, 2025: Argentina Update As I do every month, here’s an overview of the situation in Argentina—useful if you’re planning to visit in the coming weeks! Vibe, economy, general situation, tips for tourists, and more... Latest news for anyone thinking of visiting Argentina this year: - Mixed outlook - Current economic and social situation in Argentina - Our friend Cristina - What’s new for tourists?

What’s new? The parallel exchange rate and the official BNA rate are almost the same—just 2% higher for the parallel rate, which won’t really change your trip! Pay as much as possible in cash—discounts are still common at bars, restaurants, and even hotels. Even if it’s not advertised, always ask! You can still withdraw cash via Western Union, as before. Paying with a Visa or other card is still possible, and the CCL rate is even above the parallel rate today, meaning +3% compared to the official rate. However, you won’t get discounts when paying by card.

As always, **do not** withdraw money from ATMs—the fees in Argentina are still outrageous. Also, don’t forget that winter break in Argentina starts today, Friday, July 4, in 10 provinces for two weeks, until Sunday, July 20. On Friday, July 11, it begins in 9 more provinces until Sunday, July 27, and finally, in the last 4 provinces (including Buenos Aires and the city of Buenos Aires—the most populated), it runs from Friday, July 18, until Sunday, August 3. In short: 3 zones, each with two weeks off, stretching over 4 weeks total.

In previous years, I’d have warned you: “Be careful if you’re traveling, as buses, flights, and often accommodations are at high occupancy.” But this year, poorer and middle-class Argentines aren’t traveling because “No hay plata,” and those who can afford it are heading to Brazil, Chile, or even Miami for cheaper parties and shopping—Brazil can be twice as affordable! So, in Argentina, the top destinations for these staggered winter breaks are Bariloche (first place), followed by Ushuaia, San Martín de los Andes, and Villa La Angostura. Mendoza comes in fifth, then El Calafate, and finally Salta and Córdoba. As you can see, wealthy Argentines travel in winter to see snow—it’s chic to be cold and go skiing! Bariloche is the most expensive, while Córdoba is the cheapest. Same services, for example, a flight plus 7 days plus a hotel in the same category: Bariloche is 2.5 to 3 times pricier than Córdoba or even the sierras of Córdoba. Yet, there’s plenty of availability. Most people don’t have the money (and you might say Patagonian winter destinations aren’t exactly middle-class friendly either), but with fewer Brazilians or Chileans taking advantage of “cheap” Argentina, space is freed up. Brazilians alone used to make up 50% of Argentina’s international tourism—so there are suddenly fewer people on flights and in hotels! For these destinations, hoteliers are hoping for (at best) a 70% occupancy rate, though 50% would already make them happy. Why? 1- Lack of foreign tourists, 2- The middle class preferring to visit the old aunt in Posadas (to show family loyalty and spend as little as possible),

3- The wealthy opting for Bariloche, Punta Cana, Búzios, or Miami, which drastically lowers domestic occupancy rates and increases the outflow of USD abroad. +66% of Argentine tourists traveled abroad in the first five months of 2025. Six million Argentines vacationed abroad between January 1 and May 1, 2025.

To read the full article, check it out here: https://www.petitherge.com/2025/07/05-juillet-2025-situation-de-l-argentine.html

Hello, How good it feels to be back on this forum!!!!

Today, we started looking into traveling in April 2026, either to Chile or Argentina. It’s our first trip to South America. I’ve only been to French Guiana once, about ten years ago, for the space center. In recent years, we’ve usually gone to Asia during the spring holidays.

Based on the flight tickets I’ve found, two arrival and departure options are available: - Arriving in Buenos Aires and departing from Salvador de Bahia. - Arriving in Santiago, Chile, and still departing from Salvador de Bahia.

We’re considering flying business class on the outbound flight so we arrive a bit more rested. The travel class might influence our choice between itinerary A or B.

We’d like to spend two days at Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which explains the departure from Brazil.

Initially, we thought about arriving in Buenos Aires and staying in Argentina before heading to Iguazu. However, the itinerary forces us to go back through Buenos Aires.

We love nature. The El Calafate region seems to offer beautiful, easily accessible landscapes. Maybe there’s another area we should prioritize.

Here are two itineraries—what do you think? I know it’s short, but we can’t add any more days. We’ll have to make it work.

Option A: D1(Sat): Flight from France to Buenos Aires – arrival at 9:55 PM. D2(Sun): Visit Buenos Aires D3(Mon): Visit Buenos Aires. D4(Tue): Flight from Buenos Aires to El Calafate – 3.5-hour flight – arrival around midday. D4(Tue) – until D11(Tue) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D11(Tue): Flight to Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.

This itinerary forces us to pass through Buenos Aires twice.

Option B: D0(Fri): Flight from France to Santiago, Chile – departure at 11:20 PM from CDG. D1(Sat): Arrival at 7:45 AM in Santiago, Chile – hotel + city visit. D2(Sun): Visit Santiago, Chile D3(Mon): Departure for Puerto Natales, Punta Arenas, or El Calafate – to be decided. There’s about a 3-hour flight. We need to check the drop-off fees if we pick up the car in Chile and return it in Argentina – see ADEL RENT A CAR. D3(Mon) – until D10(Mon) – visit the El Calafate region: El Calafate / 121km / El Chaltén / 12km / Mount Fitz Roy / 4km / Cerro Torre Mountain / 132km / Perito Moreno Glacier / 57km / El Calafate. D10(Mon): 3.5-hour flight + visit Buenos Aires. D11(Tue): Visit Buenos Aires D12(Wed): Morning flight to Iguazu (Argentine side) – flight at 6:40 AM or 8:10 AM – 2-hour flight. D13(Thu): Half-day on the Brazilian side – flight around 7:00 PM to Salvador de Bahia. D14(Fri): Visit Salvador de Bahia (downtown) D15(Sat): Morning visit + midday departure for the airport – flight at 5:45 PM from Salvador de Bahia D16(Sun): Arrival in France.

The end of the itinerary is the same. This option avoids passing through Buenos Aires twice. Thanks for your feedback.

When I set off for Bolivia, like many Europeans, I was full of illusions (fed by the propaganda of President Evo Morales, a would-be dictator with limited intelligence). I quickly became disillusioned—everything there seems to be built on lies: political disaster, ecological disaster, economic disaster despite drug trafficking and smuggling with China, dietary disaster, intellectual disaster... Its only saving grace is being a vast, sparsely populated country, so nature lovers can still find rich, relatively untouched landscapes far from human settlements (but for how long?)

Where humans dominate, the disaster worsens year by year: water, soil, and air are contaminated, meat is pumped full of hormones, GMOs are everywhere, fish are loaded with lead and mercury (thousands of tons of waste are dumped into Lake Titicaca on both the Bolivian and Peruvian sides), and the food is ultra-artificial (all the additives banned in Europe are abundant there). For example, out of 50 fruit yogurts, only two actually contain fruit... In short, don’t expect to go there for a health retreat.

As for its capital, even though you’ll see "wonderful" written everywhere, the city is ugly, extremely polluted, and not particularly interesting. But since few Bolivians leave Bolivia and the public education system is one of the dumbest in the world, they don’t care. A stupid law decreeing that taxes are only paid once construction is finished means thousands of buildings will never be completed... Anyway, you’ve probably gathered by now that it’s not worth wasting too much time there. If you decide to go to Bolivia, it’s best to know what you’re getting into...

So what should you do? A stop in Copacabana is pleasant, as is one in Tiwanaku. A stay in Samaipata is nice, and the cities of Sucre and Potosí still have charm. The Uyuni salt flats are also worth seeing. Venture off the beaten path, even if transportation is complicated and sometimes dangerous.

Don’t be surprised by the omnipresent police (many of whom are corrupt) and military, or by the almost daily protests... These are just some of Bolivia’s characteristics. But when you pass through quickly, you tend to see what you want to see.

On the gastronomy front, aside from the fact that in many places the food is a cocktail of pesticides, GMOs, heavy metals, and dangerous additives—all washed down with plenty of Coca-Cola—don’t expect refined cuisine... That said, like everywhere, you’ll find kind people (though relationships are often superficial) and stunning landscapes. There you go—just offering a different perspective from the dazzled accounts of tourists who only scratch the surface without understanding the harsh realities. And I haven’t even touched on the administrations, social disparities, the TIPNIS conflict, disappearances (girls for prostitution and boys for organ trafficking), etc...

Hi there,

For our trip to Chile in November, we rented a car from Europcar for our stop in San Pedro de Atacama. We’ll pick up the car at Calama Airport and return it to the agency in San Pedro. We made the reservation through Rentalcars.

The problem is, I just noticed on the booking that it says in the "what you’ll need when picking up the vehicle" section: "Credit card: The card must have sufficient available funds to cover the excess/deposit (which will be blocked on the card for the duration of the rental)." And then it’s written in red: "Cash payments and debit cards are not accepted."

The thing is, we don’t have a credit card—just debit cards (which, by the way, is the case for most people; we just mistakenly call them "credit cards" when they’re actually "debit cards").

I’ve seen cases where the rental company forced people to purchase additional insurance if they didn’t provide a credit card for the deposit, but that was in European countries, and I haven’t found much info about Chile.

Has anyone else run into this issue with Europcar in Calama?

Do you know if they can refuse to give us the car if we don’t have a credit card for the deposit? Just to note, the rental payment has already been debited, and we’ve opted for the "Full Protection" insurance offered by Rentalcars. If they force us to take extra insurance, will it be something beyond this full protection?

Thanks for any insights...

Hi there, Next week, we're heading to the Bahia region for 10 days. Besides visiting Salvador, I'm torn between heading north to Praia do Forte or south to Itacaré. We'll be traveling by bus. I'd love to do both, but I'm worried I won't be able to enjoy it if I try to do too much. If you've been to these places, I'd love to hear about your experiences. Thanks in advance.

hi everyone, I’m just back from a 5-week trip to Argentina’s Northwest and San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. This was my second visit to the area—20 years apart—and my third trip to Argentina overall. still just as stunning! this time I explored the El Peñón and Antofagasta de la Sierra region in Catamarca province; I can’t recommend it enough. the road from Cafayate is good—easy in a Renault Logan—and once you’re there you’ve got 4x4 excursions and hikes. way fewer tourists than around Salta, and the landscapes are totally different. happy travels!

Hi, I’m planning a trip to Argentina and Chile in March 2026. Is there a non-stop flight from El Calafate to Calama? Thanks for your help

Hi, We’re heading to Mexico this summer and thinking of visiting Palenque. How much time should we allocate there? We plan to spend a day exploring the archaeological site. We’d also love to see some waterfalls—like Agua Azul, Misol-Ha, and Roberto Barrios Falls. Are these spots far from Palenque?

In the summer, is it possible to swim? I’ve read that the water can get pretty muddy due to frequent rains this time of year.

Any other excursion or hiking suggestions? Thanks

Hi everyone, My partner and I are planning a trip to Brazil in October for 15 to 20 days. I spent some time in Brazil years ago while collaborating with the University of Lavras (MG). Now, I’d love to introduce my partner to the country. My initial plan is Rio (4 days), Bahia—which I’ve never visited—(4 days), Belo Horizonte to catch up with old friends and explore the surrounding areas (Tiradentes and Ouro Preto), then... and back. I’m really counting on your advice to help shape this trip. We’re not backpackers anymore! Thanks in advance. Best regards, Serge Rambal - Montpellier

Hi there, I’m planning a road trip in a rental car in Paraguay. During this trip, I’d also like to cross the border to visit Iguazu Falls (both the Argentine and Brazilian sides), which are just a few kilometers from the Paraguayan border. The issue is that rental car agencies don’t allow crossing borders. So my question is: is it easy, possible, and safe to leave the rental car for 2 or 3 days in Paraguay and cross the border from Ciudad del Este? What’s the best way to get around (bus, taxi)? Thanks for your help

Hi everyone, we’re planning to spend 2 months in Colombia (February–March), and the current events have us wondering about safety. Do you have any updates, or have you just come back that might reassure us? Thanks!

hi,

We’re planning a trip to Brazil in March 2026, just the two of us, for 10 days without using an agency. Rio, the falls, and Bahia too. How can we get around there? Train? Car rental? Plane? Are the roads easy to drive on? Is Rio safe to explore on our own? We’d love any travel journals with ideas for places to see, as well as books to help us plan the whole trip. Thanks in advance for all your tips! See you soon, cheers

Hello, On our way back from Punta Arenas, we’ll be staying in Santiago for 4 days before heading home. Could you recommend any places to stay and neighborhoods in Santiago that are budget-friendly, please? We’d also like to visit Valparaíso despite some safety concerns. Is it better to hire a guide or book a organized tour from Santiago? Or can we plan it independently? Can this be done in a day? Thanks, Odile

Hi there, we’ll have 15 days total, which means 13 days of travel on the ground. We’re planning to visit Brazil during the second half of July. I’m not naive enough to think we can see a huge chunk of Brazil in such a short time, so I’m focusing on a specific area to make it relaxed and enjoyable.

We’re flying out of Madrid. I was thinking of spending 3 or 4 days in Rio, 3 days in Iguazu (I initially thought one day would be enough, but I’ve read it’s highly recommended to visit the Argentine side as well), 3 or 4 days on Ilha Grande, and 3 days in Paraty. I’m not entirely sure about Ilha Grande in July, but I’m looking for a place to unwind and enjoy the sea (if the water’s good then).

I’ve noticed a lot of people fly into Madrid and return from São Paulo (or vice versa). What’s the advantage of that? It doesn’t seem problematic (based on Google Maps, though I’m no expert) to navigate from Rio. Is there a more efficient order for visits to minimize travel time?

As you can tell, I’m just starting to plan, but I’ll need to book the international flights soon. I’ll probably have more questions for those of you who are patient enough to help! ;)

Thanks!!

Hi everyone, My husband and I are planning to explore Ecuador in the coming year, and to make the most of the trip, we’d like to do it with a rental car. We already have a rough idea of the route we’d take, and I’m reaching out to the community to help us refine this journey. Here’s the plan: Day 1: Flight to Quito Days 2 and 3: Exploring Quito Days 4 and 5: Picking up the rental car and driving to Otavalo and Laguna Cuicocha Day 6: Drive to Papallacta via Cayambe to enjoy the hot springs in the evening Days 7 and 8: Drive to Lasso via Malachi – Excursions in Cotopaxi National Park. Laguna Limpiopungo Days 9 and 10: Laguna Quilotoa Day 11: Drive to Baños via Latacunga/Ambato to enjoy the hot springs in Baños Days 12 and 13: Hiking in the Chimborazo Reserve Day 14: Hiking in Sangay National Park Day 15: Drive to Guamote to arrive by late afternoon Day 16: Guamote market in the morning. Drive to Cañar in the afternoon Day 17: Guided tour of Ingapirca, then drive to Cuenca Day 18: Visit Cajas National Park early in the morning Day 19: Exploring Cuenca Day 20: Returning the rental car and flight to Quito or driving back to Quito (depending on cost) Day 21: Relaxing in Quito Day 22: Flight back to France

We won’t be doing any ascents—just hikes in the parks (we’re walkers, but we’re feeling our age and prefer to take it easy now!).

We’d love to hear your thoughts, critiques, or advice... Thanks in advance. Looking forward to reading your replies! martine

Hi everyone,

I’d love to see jaguars in the wild in Brazil. I’ve heard it’s possible in the Pantanal. Do you know any local agencies that offer this kind of excursion, or can we go on our own? I’d also like to get an idea of the price, since French tour operators charge a fortune. Could you share any tips or your own experiences? Thanks in advance!

Hi, After reading a lot of pretty scary reviews about Retiro bus station in Buenos Aires, does anyone have any experience to share? Is it still doable during the day to catch or arrive from a bus? Is it okay to walk to the metro afterward, or is it better to take a taxi/Uber/something else right away?

Hi everyone,

Next April, I’m planning a trip (the 1st) to Brazil. I’ll have 12 days there (not counting the 13th day for the return). I’ll arrive on 22/04 in the early evening in Rio de Janeiro. The return flight is from São Paulo on 04/05 in the afternoon. I know 12 days is very little for such a big country, which is why I’ll focus on a relatively small area: the southeast (though "small" is relative!). I’ve started mapping out the main stops for my trip, which would be: - Rio de Janeiro: 4 to 5 days? - Ilha Grande and maybe Paraty: 2 to 3 days - Iguazu Falls: Brazilian and Argentinian sides: 2 days - São Paulo: 1 to 2 days

What do you think? Is this reasonable? There are about 250/260 km between Rio and Paraty. I’d like to make the trip by rental car. What do you think? A car is definitely much more practical and faster than the bus. 12/13 days is short—I can’t afford to lose too much time in transit. To get to Ilha Grande, I understand there’s a ferry that shuttles between the mainland and the island. From which city can you take the ferry? Mangaratiba? Conceição de Jacareí? Angra dos Reis? If I arrive by rental car, where can I park it? I think cars are banned on the island, right? That’s where I’m at with my planning. So many questions! 😕 A big thank you to anyone who takes the time to read my post and shares their valuable tips! 🙂

Hi there,

I’m planning a trip to Brazil in October and decided to go through an agency to organize our itinerary. I asked two agencies to put together a circuit with transfers, hotels, organized visits, and one domestic flight. I don’t speak Spanish or Portuguese. 6 nights in Rio 3 nights on Ilha Grande 3 nights in Paraty Domestic flight to Salvador for 3 nights 3 nights in Morro de São Paulo 1 night in Salvador before flying back to France. For this itinerary, I’m going with Tourlane, but I’m still waiting on the second quote from Comptoir des Voyages. I’d love to hear your thoughts on the itinerary and especially on these agencies—thanks for any feedback! 😊

Hi there, Could you let me know if this itinerary is doable: 14/09: Arrival in BA at 9:45 PM 15/09 to 16/09: BA 17/09: Flight to Iguazu early in the morning + visit the falls on the Brazilian side 18/09: Visit the falls on the Argentine side 19/09: Flight to Salta + visit Salta 20/09 to 25/09: Northern + Southern Loop in 6 full days (rental car) 26/09 to 28/09: Tolar Grande 3 days (with an agency) 29/09: Flight to Puerto Madryn (arrival in the evening) 30/09: Valdes Peninsula 01/10: Valdes Peninsula + Punta Tombo + overnight bus to Bariloche 02/10 to 07/10: 6 days to see Bariloche and the surrounding area by car (what are the must-sees?) 08/10: Flight to BA 09/10: Flight to Paris at 2:40 PM