When I set off for Bolivia, like many Europeans, I was full of illusions (fed by the propaganda of President Evo Morales, a would-be dictator with limited intelligence). I quickly became disillusioned—everything there seems to be built on lies: political disaster, ecological disaster, economic disaster despite drug trafficking and smuggling with China, dietary disaster, intellectual disaster... Its only saving grace is being a vast, sparsely populated country, so nature lovers can still find rich, relatively untouched landscapes far from human settlements (but for how long?)
Where humans dominate, the disaster worsens year by year: water, soil, and air are contaminated, meat is pumped full of hormones, GMOs are everywhere, fish are loaded with lead and mercury (thousands of tons of waste are dumped into Lake Titicaca on both the Bolivian and Peruvian sides), and the food is ultra-artificial (all the additives banned in Europe are abundant there). For example, out of 50 fruit yogurts, only two actually contain fruit... In short, don’t expect to go there for a health retreat.
As for its capital, even though you’ll see "wonderful" written everywhere, the city is ugly, extremely polluted, and not particularly interesting. But since few Bolivians leave Bolivia and the public education system is one of the dumbest in the world, they don’t care. A stupid law decreeing that taxes are only paid once construction is finished means thousands of buildings will never be completed... Anyway, you’ve probably gathered by now that it’s not worth wasting too much time there. If you decide to go to Bolivia, it’s best to know what you’re getting into...
So what should you do? A stop in Copacabana is pleasant, as is one in Tiwanaku. A stay in Samaipata is nice, and the cities of Sucre and Potosí still have charm. The Uyuni salt flats are also worth seeing. Venture off the beaten path, even if transportation is complicated and sometimes dangerous.
Don’t be surprised by the omnipresent police (many of whom are corrupt) and military, or by the almost daily protests... These are just some of Bolivia’s characteristics. But when you pass through quickly, you tend to see what you want to see.
On the gastronomy front, aside from the fact that in many places the food is a cocktail of pesticides, GMOs, heavy metals, and dangerous additives—all washed down with plenty of Coca-Cola—don’t expect refined cuisine... That said, like everywhere, you’ll find kind people (though relationships are often superficial) and stunning landscapes. There you go—just offering a different perspective from the dazzled accounts of tourists who only scratch the surface without understanding the harsh realities. And I haven’t even touched on the administrations, social disparities, the TIPNIS conflict, disappearances (girls for prostitution and boys for organ trafficking), etc...
Hmm, so if I got this right, we shouldn’t go to Bolivia because there are the evil capitalists destroying the environment versus the "good" indigenous people of the Altiplano growing organic plants with vicuña dung.
It’s like eating a bouillabaisse where politics and ideology get all mixed up.
With some alpaca wool, you’ll be all set for winter 😊.
Nice ecologists? First, they’d need to know what ecology actually is..... Not going? Everyone has to make their own choices, but at least do it with full awareness and know where to go instead. As for the ecological disaster, it’s a global issue....
Ruining Bolivia's image? It's just an observation of what's happening in the country, unfortunately.
I could say the exact same thing about Brazil. That doesn’t stop me from going there.
It’s just the other side of the coin that you don’t see in travel brochures.....
Hello,
I think your observation applies to many countries (probably even across Europe). For my part, I only discovered the Altiplano’s exceptional landscapes, amazing wildlife, and stunning mountains there. (https://mon-sejour.com/bolivie/le-film-de-notre-trek-en-bolivie/)
Découvrez mes voyages en Inde, Iran, Bolivie, Sri Lanka, Islande, USA, Costa Rica, Croatie, Canada, Australie et Nouvelle Calédonie sur :
http://www.mon-sejour.com/
Hello,
I’ve been living in Bolivia for 10 years now, so I think I know the country’s reality "a bit more than just superficially."
Yes, some of the points you made are true, but unfortunately, your exaggerations and the lack of any positive aspects undermine your message and strip it of all objectivity.
Bolivia, like many others, is a politically, socially, and economically complex country. It’s a nation in the midst of transformation, facing various challenges—chief among them right now being Evo Morales’ potential return to politics.
But it’s also an authentic country with incredible cultural and natural diversity.
I find your message somewhat disrespectful to Bolivians.
You’ve shared your perspective, and I’m sharing mine.
Sincerely,
Jerome
Jérôme
Villa Chiquitana
San José de Chiquitos
Bolivie
Attribal’s post really surprised us, coming from someone who apparently only took a short trip to Bolivia.
It’s true that Morales is trying to manipulate the various referendums and elections to run for a 4th term (the 2016 referendum and the 2017 high magistrate elections).
But you still have to consider the country’s progress.
For example, electrification, modernization of the road network (a few years ago, there were practically no paved roads south of Oruro), and the installation of the cable car network in La Paz, which has improved traffic flow in the city and reduced pollution a bit.
During our various trips, we’ve seen Bolivia transform in many areas, though the people of the Altiplano remain proud and have preserved their traditions.
Best regards,
Hi, why do we always have to reduce a country's or a people's development to a political dimension?
It seems like an obsession and a very French reflex (to believe that everything is political and that politics can and should do everything).
In my opinion, people are more than capable on their own.
We're having a bit of trouble following your reasoning—politics is very much present everywhere in Bolivia.
And whether we like it or not, it's governments that initiate major modernization projects.
Best regards,
hi Ladrech, I totally agree 🙂
Sorry for being too abstract, you’ll forgive me 😛
What I was getting at is whether an individual can be master of their own existence independently of external causes or not...
Is the people sovereign or not?
And then the whole question is whether the State and the Nation (basically, I’m talking about the concept of the Nation-State, obviously) overlap...
By State, we can understand a political construct.
But once again, please forgive me for these overly abstract arguments.
Otherwise, yes, Bolivia is a really great country, and I can’t wait to go back!
Oh, and you can listen to Savia Andina—it’s a group you should enjoy without moderation.
This is a problem often raised on this forum (though still very interesting): believing that geographic migration allows you to travel to utopia.
In short, behind the idealized images and the naive stance we might take when faced with them, there are certain social and political realities 😛
Hello,
I’ve been living in Bolivia for 10 years now and think I know the reality of the country, "more than just superficially."
Yes, some elements of your post are true, but unfortunately, your exaggeration and the lack of any positive aspects undermine your message and strip it of all objectivity.
Bolivia, like many others, is a politically, socially, and economically complex country. It’s a nation in the midst of transformation, facing various challenges, the main one right now being Evo Morales’ attempt to return to power.
But it’s also an authentic country with incredible cultural and natural diversity.
I find your message disrespectful to Bolivians.
You’ve shared your point of view. I’m sharing mine.
Sincerely,
Jerome
Hi,
Like you, I was really shocked by this post—I found it out of place and insulting to the Bolivian people... There *is* an ecological problem in Bolivia, the overexploitation of lithium—the very thing that allows us to post on VF—is causing a real environmental disaster. But the same is true in many other countries, and probably more ecological catastrophes will emerge (in Brazil????). As for politics... sadly, Bolivia isn’t the only country suffering under dictatorship (or "pseudo-dictatorship")....
How is this insulting to the Bolivian people?
The author is just stating facts, which are probably justified.
Like in Brazil, when I point out that the country is dirty—especially because of the trash lying everywhere—people are fully aware of it... but they still keep throwing everything on the ground. Sad observation, but nothing insulting.
That’s just my opinion and how I felt... 🤪 Calling out the stupidity (through education) and superficiality of Bolivians, highlighting their inability to manage their country, reducing Bolivia to a simple observation about ecological disaster—I didn’t appreciate this post... You can’t sum up an entire country like that....
How is this insulting to the Bolivian people?
The author is just stating facts, which are probably justified.
I agree with Gildadesiles—the assessment made by the original poster of this thread is too negative.
There are still plenty of great things in Bolivia—nothing’s perfect on Earth, otherwise no one would travel to Bolivia.
Actually, the criticism comes off as a bit of that "bourgeois bohemian" self-righteousness 😛
Like in Brazil, when I point out that the country is dirty, especially because of the litter lying around
I’ve been to Brazil a few times—it’s not worse than France.
Cities in France are partly dirty too, especially the sidewalks.
I agree with you about how clean French sidewalks are 🤪
I just got back from Colombia and was surprised by how clean the streets in cities generally are (less true in small villages)
We spent 3 weeks in Bolivia and ... loved it!
Everywhere, the people were welcoming and friendly, with stunning landscapes.
Sure, corruption exists in Bolivia, but ... doesn’t it exist in France and everywhere else in the world?
Dirt: Yes, it’s not as clean as the Champs-Élysées, but don’t go to India either (very dirty, but we loved it too because it’s the people you meet, not "the dirt and corruption").
In La Paz, the network of cable cars provides access to the city center from the poor neighborhoods in the surrounding highlands: a system unique in the world.
We loved Sucre with its bustling local markets and lively streets.
In Potosí, we chose not to visit the mines because it felt like voyeurism.
We were worried about scams at the Salar de Uyuni because it’s so touristy, but we found a small, super-friendly local agency and spent the day at our own pace instead of rushing.
Sure, the buses aren’t as new as those in Chile, Peru, or Brazil, but they’re the same models—just older—with sleeper seats that make our French buses look like wagons.
BUT: let’s not forget that Bolivia is one of the poorest countries in the world, so nothing is easy to organize.
Why so poor? Because they lost access to the ocean after wars, and Chile charges them huge taxes to export through Chilean ports.
Even though Bolivian salt flats are rich in lithium, which could make the country wealthy;
I find it really unhealthy to visit a poor country and only see the dirt and corruption instead of the warmth and hospitality of its people.
I think it’d be better to visit New York or Los Angeles, which are obviously cleaner and "less corrupt."
I’m in awe of your knowledge of ecology, gastronomy, and nutrition, as well as your insights into the stupidity of the education system, and your expertise in smuggling and organ trafficking in a country you seem to know *extremely* well.
I’d love to know as much as you do—it’d make writing like you so much easier.
I *could* correct your spelling mistakes (you called it an intellectual disaster!), but I won’t.
Safe travels, sir.
We got back yesterday from an extraordinary trip to Bolivia, visiting places as stunning as they are remote, like the canyons of Tupiza and especially Ciudad de Roma near Guadalupe in the Sud Lípez.
I generally agree with Bruno8131, but not with this phrase:
Poor why? Because they lost access to the ocean after wars, and Chile imposes huge taxes on them to export through Chilean ports.
We got back yesterday from an extraordinary trip to Bolivia, passing through places as magnificent as they are remote, like the canyons of Tupiza and especially Ciudad de Roma near Guadalupe in the Sud Lípez.
I generally agree with Bruno8131, but not with this phrase:
Poor why? Because they lost access to the ocean after wars, and Chile imposes huge taxes on them to export through Chilean ports.
The taxes imposed by Chile for transporting goods are part of Evo Morales' propaganda. The ICJ just issued a ruling on October 1, 2018, confirming that Chile does grant free movement of Bolivian goods and people on Chilean territory (just like our goods in the EU).
www.lemonde.fr/...li_5363013_3222.html
Moreover, it’s Bolivia that sets its own import and export customs duties in the ports of Arica and Antofagasta, where it has its own agents.
www.mitoyrealidad.cl/...acces_a_la_mer_2.pdf.
So "poor why?" is another story!
I work in import-export in Bolivia and I ship my goods through Chilean ports... So no taxes, but other obstacles, yes. Frequent strikes, big delays for X reasons—basically, we’re treated like garbage because they know we don’t have other options. Note that it’s not so much the Chilean government’s fault, but since the ports are privatized, it’s more the port management companies.
The poverty issue obviously comes from elsewhere, even if being a landlocked country costs us a few tenths of a percentage point of GDP, like all other landlocked countries. Anyway, we’re getting off topic.
I obviously don’t agree at all with the thread’s author. I had posted a long reply earlier that was deleted because it was a bit too harsh, but I’d say the only people who can judge a country are its own inhabitants...
What an unpleasant piece of writing to read, but I forced myself to finish it anyway!
Everything in your text is negative—I think the best thing would be not to travel at all.
What made me laugh the most was your analysis of fruit yogurts; I wouldn’t even think of eating fruit yogurts in Bolivia.
Anyway, I backpacked through Bolivia for 5 weeks and LOVED it.
Anne-Elise
To continue from my previous message about pollution, it’s really not our place—us Westerners—to criticize. We’ve polluted the world for decades and have now exported our ever-growing overconsumption lifestyle to the rest of the world (including the internet, which requires enormous amounts of energy!). As tourists, isn’t our role to discuss it on the ground without criticizing, but rather to suggest or support local efforts? With all the resources of wealthy countries, pollution still exists at home. Isn’t it unhealthy to criticize a poor country? Everywhere we’ve brought it up, local populations agreed, and with the spread of the internet, awareness of pollution is (almost) everywhere (though there’s still a lot of work to do in India! But things are changing fast among young, educated people). You’ve apparently traveled to Nepal—sorry, but I found Kathmandu extremely dirty, and we didn’t see the kind of filth you mentioned in Bolivia. My biggest concern about pollution is the LEGITIMATE rise in living standards in China and India, which represent billions of people.
Junk food: Who imposed junk food on these poor countries? Especially when they have so little money to feed themselves and can’t afford our Label Rouge chickens or foie gras with a glass of Sauternes.
About access to the sea: No, it’s not just Morales’ political move. Since losing the War of the Pacific in 1880, Bolivia has mourned the loss of its ocean port, which left the country landlocked and cut off from trade routes. Whether under left-wing, right-wing, or dictatorial governments—or Morales’ recent Indigenous left-wing government—Bolivia’s trade has been complicated by relations with its neighbors. In all these countries in western South America, nationalist conflicts from the 20th century persist, even though the people in these regions are all cousins—Andean on one side, Hispanic on the other, with mestizos in between! They’ve suffered a lot, too, like from the Shining Path in Peru. The most recent country to suffer was Ecuador, which lost another quarter of its territory in a war with Peru in the Amazon (oh, and there’s oil there!). I was surprised to see Peruvian flags in the slums of Lima or in Ecuador.
I find this discussion purely political, completely one-sided, and full of disparagement. To me, it has nothing to do with travel.
It’s unacceptable for us, as real travelers, to get involved in the political trends of the countries we visit—whether it’s Morales’ Indigenous left-wing Bolivia, Brazil’s far-right extremism, Russia’s pre-dictatorship, or Trump’s hyper-liberalism turning into shameful nationalism.
Unless we still have a colonialist mindset .
But then, what are tourists doing in the Emirates, Iran, Jordan, Turkey, Russia, Israel, or even... the United States?
Looking at your profile, I don’t understand the tone of this discussion at all! (You seem cool, even if you’re not exactly young.)
Also, I think this discussion doesn’t belong in a travel blog at all.
I’m going to report this to the administrator. It’s up to them to decide if this kind of discussion should be allowed on this site.
Happy travels to all, with amazing encounters to enrich ourselves with other civilizations
I think this discussion is purely political, completely one-sided, and full of disparagement. For me, it has nothing to do with travel.
It’s unacceptable that we, as real travelers, get caught up in the political trends of the countries we visit—even when those governments were democratically elected.
But what are tourists doing in the Emirates, Iran, Jordan, Turkey, Russia, Israel, or even... the United States?
Also, I think this discussion has no place on a travel blog.
That’s exactly what I said in my post that got censored: this political conversation doesn’t belong on a forum dedicated to tourism...
Ah! Thanks Bruno, you just took us back 50 years, to when a little snitch in the schoolyard would say "I’m gonna tell the TEACHER!" You say, "I’ll therefore report this to the administrator; it’s up to them to decide if this type of discussion can be on this site." What’s with this trend of sweeping things under the rug in the name of political correctness? Even though I don’t agree with the terms at the start of the thread, it’s precisely allowed for other opinions to be expressed, and it’s entirely relevant—politics is part of the country, and talking about it isn’t the same as getting involved.
Back to Bolivia: I had a medical emergency there, and it was a small rural clinic that saved my life. So, it’s not all doom and gloom!
After your insults that demonstrate a superior intellect (insults being so easy behind the anonymity of the Internet), and when I see the original message, which is nothing but a pile of insults and denigration toward a country:
We clearly don’t share the same idea of travel:
yours seems to lean more toward the colonialism of another era—coming to poor countries to preach the "right" way, which is inevitably your own, in a country of "savages" who are idiots for electing leaders with different ideas.
Don’t travel, since everything is better where you are, and the rest of the world is pathetic.
For me, travel is about meeting people, trying to live a little like they do, communicating with them, listening to them, and trying to understand them—even if we’re often seen as nothing more than a "walking wallet." In the 18 countries we crossed over a year, we encountered a lot of friendship and hospitality—often far more than in France!
If I report this—and I stand by it—the original message is nothing but a pile of hate and insults and has no place on a travel blog. Only the administrator will decide, but I think the vast majority of this site’s subscribers agree with me.
I don’t want a response, because nothing can bring us together in this discussion.
Goodbye!
Same here: what a strange way to perceive travel—of course, in many countries, there are shocking situations (sometimes objectively, sometimes through our privileged European lens)... and we can always endlessly debate politics...
I really loved Bolivia—and I don’t agree with this so-negative assessment, including regarding Morales’ policies.
But beyond the economic and political system in place, which we can always discuss, what remains (and that’s what matters most to me) are the encounters with people, the landscapes, the feelings...
Something surprises me: where did the original poster of this thread go on this forum?!!!
Junk food: who imposed junk food in these poor countries? Especially when they have very little money to feed themselves and can't afford our Label Rouge chickens or our foie gras with a glass of Sauternes.
I find this discussion purely political, completely one-sided, and derogatory. For me, it has nothing to do with travel.
It's unacceptable that we, as true travelers, immerse ourselves in the political trends of the countries we visit, even if they were democratically elected—whether it's Morales' indigenous left-wing Bolivia, Brazil's far-right extremism, Russia's pre-dictatorship, or Trump's exacerbated liberalism turning into infamous nationalism.
Unless one still has a backward colonialist mindset 😏
But what are tourists doing in the Emirates, Iran, Jordan, Turkey, Russia, Israel, or even... the United States?
Looking at your profile, I don't understand the terms of this discussion at all! (cool vibe, though not exactly young)
Also, I think this discussion doesn't belong in a travel blog.
I'm going to report this to the administrator; it's up to them to decide if this type of discussion can stay on this site.
Happy travels to all, with wonderful encounters to enrich ourselves with other civilizations
I don't share this opinion—politics obviously has everything to do with travel... Firstly, because it impacts those very travels: administrative difficulties, risks, etc. And secondly, because it prevents us from having a narrow-minded view of certain countries.
As for junk food, I don’t think the West is to blame. In Latin America, the cuisine is more hearty than refined... but that’s not a bad thing—these countries have many other qualities
Talking about politics in a travel blog to warn of personal danger, I agree.
Criticizing a policy or a way of life in a democracy, I don’t agree with that. In this case, Morales was elected and re-elected by the Bolivian people, even if we don’t agree with his policies. If you completely disagree politically with a country, why go? It’s masochistic to visit something that disgusts you! Unless you have a colonialist mindset from another era.
For a dictatorship, it’s different!
But it’s also good to discuss, in all honesty, when we don’t share the same opinion.
With my wife, we spent 3 weeks in Bolivia and loved it—first the landscapes, but also the people. We stayed with locals, took local buses, and tried to blend in as much as possible (even if we’ll never be Bolivian!). We made an effort to communicate, even though few speak English and our Spanish wasn’t great. We had no bad surprises in Bolivia and were welcomed everywhere.
We did the same in every country we visited during our year-long round-the-world trip.
When we returned, we noticed how sad and hopeless the French seem!
Even the police—we met border officers and cops around the world who were sometimes smiling and kind, while in France, they’re very strict, unfriendly, and often condescending.
So when I read "Bolivia, the disaster" and the original post, I wondered if we hadn’t ended up in Somalia or Afghanistan instead of Bolivia.
That message is just hate and denigration.
How would we French feel if we read an American calling us pathetic, depraved, insulting our food, and treating us like subhumans!
After this discussion, I did some research online. All I knew about Morales was that he’s an indigenous president (which I think is great), anti-American (which I also like!), and his strong speech against the U.S. at the UN in front of Trump—even if it was a bit exaggerated.
I read that Morales built a very expensive glass tower in La Paz for the presidency, which isn’t great. In his defense, I saw the old presidential palace—it really wasn’t impressive! On the other hand, the cable cars in La Paz, comparable to the best ski resort cable cars in the Alps, are a huge social benefit in my opinion.
I also read that he’s trying to stay in power, even though he shouldn’t be allowed to run for a fourth term. We need to keep an eye on him so he doesn’t turn into another Colombia, which is sliding into dictatorship.
But for now, I think Bolivia is still a democracy, with its political battles—not worse than ours in France, which are often deplorable.
So what does this have to do with the original post in this discussion, which I find shameful (even though I hate using that word—it’s too extreme, but not enough in this case)?
Food: a big debate.
During our round-the-world trip, I only truly enjoyed the food in Vietnam—for its diversity and finesse (nothing like Vietnamese restaurants in France!).
For the rest: How well we eat in France!
I went to the mountains in Peru 20 years ago. Even if the Quechua shepherds’ cuisine is repetitive, it’s very natural and delicious (llama meat, guinea pig, millet, corn, potatoes, etc.). The cooks in restaurants aren’t Michelin-starred chefs, sure, but I think the local food is maybe more natural than what’s sold to us in France. Markets like the one in Sucre: what a feast for the eyes! And I have no bad memories of the restaurants.
I actually found, like you, that the original poster’s text—which, by the way, they never came back to argue—was completely one-sided and very pejorative... I do agree with you that if we’re against a country’s political regime, we shouldn’t go there... nothing forces us to spend our vacations in a country whose politics we disapprove of.
As for Morales, like many politicians, he struggles to let go of power... but he’s not the only one in that situation.... 🤪
For the food, we really enjoyed the meals in PERU (which already has a reputation for having the best cuisine in South America). In Colombia, where I just returned from, you can find great restaurants, of course, but the overuse of bananas in every form (which I personally don’t love) didn’t sit too well with me...
Here’s a fine speech that could easily be linked to a strong Popular Right sentiment.
Unfortunately, I sense some remarks that hark back to the colonialism of a certain era. It would have been better to discuss things with the locals. I see a vision of what makes some French tourists eternal complainers—next time, try to understand what’s really going on, and never forget that you’re a tourist and only see one side of life in the countries you visit. If you go to India or China, you’ll understand what pollution really means. And what about the pollution caused by nuclear power plants in France, huh?
Here in Canada, we’ve got our tar sands and our own corruption, but even though we speak French, we’ve learned to be a lot more humble than the typical French tourist…
Attribal is Belgian or at least lives in Belgium! It’s insulting to the Right and the People to qualify this statement that way. Besides, our nuclear power plants pollute cleanly.
The point of this post is to learn more about Bolivia through the reactions it provokes.
I admit that the French are often "whiners"—I love that expression, especially in a group.
However, most of those who organize their own trips are open to a different way of seeing life. Isn’t that the point of traveling?
As a Bolivian, I’m really glad to hear you won’t be returning to our lands. Other people have appreciated the hospitality, humility, and kindness of my fellow countrymen, as well as the natural treasures Bolivia is overflowing with. Plus, in Cochabamba, where I was born, the food is pretty damn good! To each their own, as they say.
When it comes to education (in the institutional sense), while it may not be the best, it has still managed to produce excellent professionals and intellectuals like Manuel Alejandro Olivera Andrade, winner of the UNESCO/Juan Bosch Prize for his work titled *"Factores de riesgo para el proyecto estatal de aprovechamiento del litio del salar de Uyuni: Gobernanza, mercado y extractivismo histórico"*, which translates to "Risk Factors in the Government’s Lithium Exploitation Project in the Uyuni Salt Flats: Governance, Market, and Historical Extractivism." You can imagine we’re not just mindless idiots lacking the ability to think, imagine, and achieve sustainable development for our country.
Bolivia has so much to offer. Despite centuries of suffering, enslavement, and massive looting, generosity—and sometimes naivety—remain widespread traits across the country. That said, after so many setbacks, it’s understandable that Bolivians don’t trust just anyone. Naive, but not that stupid.
Bolivia has so much to offer. Despite centuries of suffering, enslavement, and massive looting, generosity and sometimes naivety remain widespread traits across the country. However, it’s understandable that after so many setbacks, Bolivians don’t trust just anyone. Naive, but not that stupid.
This comes a little late, but it rings so true.
Since I’ve got a Bolivian friend who seems to speak French better than I do, I’m really tempted to ask his opinion on what’s happening in Bolivia right now and how he sees the future of this country—which, I have to say (no offense to Atribal), I love deeply.
(And yeah, you can *really* eat well in Cochabamba! But I avoided the fruit yogurts, gotta say... you’d have to be crazy to eat fruit yogurt in Bolivia...😛)
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
Stumbled upon this post way too late... Bolivia left me with some truly beautiful memories... an unmissable destination that I recommend to everyone... Go for it!!!
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Bonjour à tous,
Nous envisageons pour le mois de novembre, de faire un tour dans le sud du Chili. Le programme pressenti est le suivant :
Jour 1 : Arrivée à Santiago puis vol le lendemain sur Balmaceda où nous récupérerons une voiture de location pour rallier Cohaique.
Jour 3 : promenade dans la réserve nationale de Cohaique puis continuation de la route jusqu'à Puerto Chacabuco. Retour sur Coyaique pour la 2è nuit.
Jour 4 : route sur Villa Cerro Castillo pour se balader dans le PN. Poursuite de la route sur Puerto Tranquilo et nuit à Puerto Tranquilo où nous prévoyons de rester 3 nuits
Jour 5 : Navigation sur la laguna San Rafael
Jour 6 : Journée au glacier Monte San Valentin
Jour 7 : Excursion pour les Capillas de Marmol puis route sur Puerto Guadal. Nous resterons 3 nuits à Puerto Guadal
Jour 8 : Balade le long de Lago Carrera et retour à PG
Jour 9 : Vallée du Rio Baker et si possible excursion sur le glacier
Jour 10 : Route sur Cochrane et rando dans la réserve nationale de Tamango. Nous resterons 2 nuits à Cochrane
Jour 11 : Balade dans la vallée de Chacabuco
Jour 12 : Route sur Caleta Tortel. Nous y resterons 2 nuits
Jour 13 : croisière dans le delta du Rio Baker
Jour 14 : retour sur Cochrane
Jour 15 : retour sur Balmaceda en deux étapes
Jour 16 : poursuite de la route de retour
Jour 17 : restitution de la voiture de location et retour sur Santiago.
Nous prévoyons également à la suite de faire un tour au Nord de Santiago. Je ferai un autre post pour cette partie quand j'aurai une idée plus précise du parcours.
Que pensez-vous de ce programme ? Est-ce faisable en 17 jours ?
Merci par avance pour vos conseils et recommandations.
martine
Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá.
30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate.
01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva.
02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá.
03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento.
04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby?
05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones?
06/12: Flight to Medellín.
07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses?
08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé.
09/12: Return to Medellín.
10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park.
11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance.
12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think?
13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?).
14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao.
15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time.
16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach.
17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February.
I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival.
Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina),
Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit.
Is this doable in 3 months?
Which direction should I take for this itinerary?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much
Hi,
We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca.
From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule?
After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help!
Martin
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me.
What do you think?
What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Patagonia for three weeks in November, starting from Coyhaique in Chile.
We won’t have a car, and I’m struggling to find information about transportation options for a few parts of the itinerary we’d like to do:
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions!
Thomas
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile!
I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
Good evening,
We’d love to go in November to enjoy some beautiful beaches for about two weeks, preferably around Bahia, as November/December seems like a great time.
We’ve already traveled to Brazil several times and know the south of Rio as well as the region between São Luís and Fortaleza, and Chapada Diamantina...
What advice would you give us: the south with Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo, Boipeba, Barra Grande—or all four? Or maybe the north?
Thanks in advance for your help
Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend?
Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding,
Cocora Valley,
Hiking,
Nearby villages.
Flight to
3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one.
Short night hike.
Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus.
Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback!
Have a great day!
Hi,
During an upcoming trip to Peru, we’ll have one day to explore around Arequipa (excluding Colca Canyon) with a car and driver.
We’ve got a few options:
- Toro Muerto petroglyphs and dinosaur footprints at Querulpa
- Ruta del Sillar and Quebrada de Culebrillas
We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort.
Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site.
Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life.
Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks
Hi there!
I’m putting together my itinerary for Brazil, looking for beautiful natural spots with wildlife, flora, and great hikes...
I’ve come across the Cananeia / Super Agui / Ilha do Mel region and the PETAR / Intervales / Alto Ribeira area.
Has anyone here been to these places? If so, do you have any recommendations for accommodations and activities?
Thanks in advance!
Best,
Olivier 🌍
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA.
Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
Hi there,
We’re spending 3 weeks in Brazil, arriving in São Paulo—a couple plus a teen—and we’ll have a rental car.
We especially love nature: hiking, wildlife watching, birds, etc.
We’re planning to wrap up with a week around Paraty and Ilha Grande.
We’re not really into visiting big cities like São Paulo or Rio unless you think we’d be missing out big time.
So we’ve got 2 weeks to explore the south/southwest region of São Paulo.
What do you recommend?
National parks? Off-the-beaten-path nature spots? Iguazu Falls?
Hi there,
Do you have any recommendations for comfortable accommodation in Leyva and Barichara? We're also looking for a guide to explore the areas around these two towns (parks, waterfalls, etc.).
Thanks for your tips!
I visited Colombia in January 2016 and I’m heading back from August 6th to 17th with the same airline to see how things have changed. Starting August 18th, I’ll continue with independent exploration. I prefer slow travel and enjoying places at my own pace.
Any tips—especially for getting around or must-see spots—are welcome!
Thu Aug 06. Fly Montreal to Bogotá 20:55-04:05+1 Air Canada
Fri Aug 07. Bogotá
Sat Aug 08. Bogotá
Sun Aug 09. Bogotá
Mon Aug 10. Fly Bogotá to Medellín
Tue Aug 11. Medellín - Explore Guatapé
Wed Aug 12. Comuna 8 & Hill of Values - PM Fly to Pereira
Thu Aug 13. Montenegro
Fri Aug 14. Salento - Cocora Valley
Sat Aug 15. Fly to Cartagena
Sun Aug 16. Explore Cartagena
Mon Aug 17. Explore Cartagena
Tue Aug 18. Fly Cartagena to Cali 12:20-14:55 Latam
Wed Aug 19. Cali
Thu Aug 20. Cali
Fri Aug 21. Cali
Sat Aug 22. Bus Cali to Popayán 09:00-13:00
Sun Aug 23. Popayán
Mon Aug 24. Popayán
Tue Aug 25. Popayán - Day trip to Silvia (Market Day)
Wed Aug 26. Overland Popayán to Tierradentro by public transportation 4h, 100km
Thu Aug 27. Tierradentro
Fri Aug 28. Tierradentro
Sat Aug 29. Overland Tierradentro to Garzón via La Plata
Sun Aug 30. Bus Garzón to San Agustín 10:30-13:00
Mon Aug 31. San Agustín
Tue Sep 01. San Agustín
Wed Sep 02. San Agustín
Thu Sep 03. San Agustín
Fri Sep 04. Overland San Agustín to Tatacoa Desert via Neiva
Sat Sep 05. Tatacoa Desert
Sun Sep 06. Fly to Bogotá via Neiva 16:00-17:00 Latam
Mon Sep 07. Bogotá
Tue Sep 08. Fly Bogotá to Montreal 09:00-16:30 Air Canada
Hi there,
Three years ago during a trip to Java (no, I didn’t post in the wrong forum!), I came across the address of former miners who had switched to “tourism” and organized nighttime ascents of the Kawah Ijen volcano and descents into the crater.
So I was thinking—maybe there are miners on the salt flats too, either former or still active, who do the same thing. If you’ve had an experience like this, I’d love any tips you can share.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there, since there isn’t much recent info on how to get to MP, I’d love to know if there have been any improvements to the "route" to Hydroelectrica. Is it feasible to drive there in February? And is it still possible to walk all the way to Aguas Calientes? I think I read somewhere that it’s no longer allowed??
Do you think I can buy Machu Picchu entrance tickets last-minute at that time of year, given the weather?
A group of friends and I are heading to Brazil in March 2019 and we’d love to attend the Carnival parade. I could really use your help because I’m struggling to find reviews for online ticket sellers for Carnival.
I came across rio-carnival—is this a reliable agency?
Do you have other agencies to recommend or experiences to share?
Any advice is welcome.
Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition)
Hi fellow travelers,
Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!
As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.
In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:
Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them?
The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings.
Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now.
Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels.
The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.
Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.
