Hi everyone,
I’m planning a two-week trip to Iran in September and I’m reaching out for some valuable tips....
After doing a bit of research, I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary.
I plan to spend 2–3 days in Tehran, then head down to Isfahan for 4–5 days with an overnight stop in Kashan. After that, I’m thinking of going to Shiraz for 2–3 days, including a visit to Persepolis.
Then back to Tehran with a 2-day stop in Yazd.
What do you think? Is this doable? Are there any other must-see spots?
The north, with Tabriz and Masuleh, also caught my eye, but what should I cut to fit them in?
If you have any recommendations for high-quality, authentic hotels, I’d love to hear them.
And one last (silly) question—I’m a smoker (unfortunately!), so is it allowed for women to smoke in Iran? If so, under what conditions?
Thanks in advance for your help, and I’m all ears for any advice!
West Asia (Middle East) · Iran
Afghanistan, Saudi Arabia, Iran, Iraq, Israel, Jordan, Kuwait, Lebanon, Pakistan, Palestine, Qatar, Syria, Yemen...
Showing 1–6 of 6 discussions in English.
Hi everyone, I’m really keen to visit Iran for three weeks in mid-March 2015.
What worries me a bit isn’t so much traveling alone—I’m used to it and know the Middle East well—but rather the current events (Islamic State) that could potentially become dangerous.
Flights are pretty cheap at the moment, and I’d like to book before prices go up.
Any advice from people who know the ground situation and Iranian current affairs better than I do would be much appreciated! :)
Any advice from people who know the ground situation and Iranian current affairs better than I do would be much appreciated! :)
Hello,
We’re not sure this report will really be useful for VF backpackers.
As mentioned in our profile, our travel journals are primarily aimed at young van converters who’ve been following our trips for years. No cultural fluff—just a visual reconstruction that strictly follows our motorized routes.
That said, they might offer a different perspective: traveling immersed in a small, go-anywhere vehicle that fascinated the Iranians. We didn’t just visit once—we had to show off our van setup 100 times!
Anyway, it’s up to you to decide. 😏
The itinerary? No overly precise plan. It’s all about the vibe, improvisation, and what we felt like doing... since our van makes us completely self-sufficient. Sylvie wanted to see Persepolis, the desert cities, and the jewel that is Isfahan. For me, it was Abadan and Bandar Abbas—where I used to drive TIR trucks back in the 1970s. Then Bam and Baluchistan, where I’d never driven before.
Speaking of which, over 40 years of international road experience doesn’t make you immune to mistakes. Overconfident, I underestimated tensions in certain areas. You’ll find the stories in the text accompanying the photos.
All in all, these 30 days are shared online in two albums.
Click the "i" to display the story alongside the photos:
Album 1: PERSIAN GULF
Album 2: IRAN 2017
The travel journal map:

To wrap up, a few snapshots of our favorite spots 😏
Shushtar, Khuzestan

Qeshm Island

Strait of Hormuz

Bam

Gulf of Oman

Shahdad Desert

Ardabil

Varzaneh

Best regards, Sylvie & Bernard
We’re not sure this report will really be useful for VF backpackers.
As mentioned in our profile, our travel journals are primarily aimed at young van converters who’ve been following our trips for years. No cultural fluff—just a visual reconstruction that strictly follows our motorized routes.
That said, they might offer a different perspective: traveling immersed in a small, go-anywhere vehicle that fascinated the Iranians. We didn’t just visit once—we had to show off our van setup 100 times!
Anyway, it’s up to you to decide. 😏
The itinerary? No overly precise plan. It’s all about the vibe, improvisation, and what we felt like doing... since our van makes us completely self-sufficient. Sylvie wanted to see Persepolis, the desert cities, and the jewel that is Isfahan. For me, it was Abadan and Bandar Abbas—where I used to drive TIR trucks back in the 1970s. Then Bam and Baluchistan, where I’d never driven before.
Speaking of which, over 40 years of international road experience doesn’t make you immune to mistakes. Overconfident, I underestimated tensions in certain areas. You’ll find the stories in the text accompanying the photos.
All in all, these 30 days are shared online in two albums.
Click the "i" to display the story alongside the photos:
Album 1: PERSIAN GULF
Album 2: IRAN 2017
The travel journal map:

To wrap up, a few snapshots of our favorite spots 😏
Shushtar, Khuzestan

Qeshm Island

Strait of Hormuz

Bam

Gulf of Oman

Shahdad Desert

Ardabil

Varzaneh

Best regards, Sylvie & Bernard
Hello 🙂
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore. A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Catherine
I should be serving a warming drink to the participants in the discussion about gardens and parks that provide us with beautiful photos, I could mention the delicious buttery scent wafting from bakeries in the thread about returning to France, but my heart, its powerful pulse that nourishes my entire being, is elsewhere.
Dasht-e Lut, Yazd, Esfahan, Bam, Kerman, Qeshm, Hormuz—a melody, a prayer at the heart of desire.
A dream, an unattainable fantasy? No. Not anymore. A very serious Italian travel agency is organizing this trip for 6 people this winter. I’m signed up, I’m going, I’m living. Maybe.
"But you’re completely crazy!!!!"
I know... I know that every civilization, every society has a vital need to create scapegoats to define and justify itself, pathetically. And Iran is one of them, top of the list. I laugh or sigh, and it doesn’t bother me.
But that unchanging red, deep red and garnet, so beautiful in itself, in all the Western chancelleries repeats, whispers, shouts: don’t go, don’t go, don’t go, you’re putting yourself in danger and we can’t do anything for you. You’ll be turned into mere bargaining chips, into arguments for endless negotiations. Fear must be instilled, its power absolutely preserved, no concessions made to the enemy. The information (how many French hostages, real or fake, compared to the number of travelers?) is always lacking.
Traveling becomes a merciless confrontation between desire, the vital pulse, and anxiety, its ghosts.
Catherine
Hi there,
I’m planning to head to Asia by motorcycle in September. I’d like to know if it’s still possible to cross Iran...
If not, what other routes might be feasible in the fall?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Franck
Hi there,
We’d like to travel overland from Turkey to India in our converted van, but there are very few options these days. Crossing Iran seems risky and not particularly safe. Has anyone here done it? If so, which route did you take to minimize safety concerns?
Thanks for your replies, Julie 😎
We’d like to travel overland from Turkey to India in our converted van, but there are very few options these days. Crossing Iran seems risky and not particularly safe. Has anyone here done it? If so, which route did you take to minimize safety concerns?
Thanks for your replies, Julie 😎
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