Iran itinerary and accommodation?
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Translated into English.

Original post
KU
Hi everyone,

I’m planning a two-week trip to Iran in September and I’m reaching out for some valuable tips....

After doing a bit of research, I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary.

I plan to spend 2–3 days in Tehran, then head down to Isfahan for 4–5 days with an overnight stop in Kashan. After that, I’m thinking of going to Shiraz for 2–3 days, including a visit to Persepolis. Then back to Tehran with a 2-day stop in Yazd.

What do you think? Is this doable? Are there any other must-see spots?

The north, with Tabriz and Masuleh, also caught my eye, but what should I cut to fit them in?

If you have any recommendations for high-quality, authentic hotels, I’d love to hear them.

And one last (silly) question—I’m a smoker (unfortunately!), so is it allowed for women to smoke in Iran? If so, under what conditions?

Thanks in advance for your help, and I’m all ears for any advice!
VE Veekaway ·
Hi,

I’m also interested in hotel recommendations in Tehran, Qazvin, and Tabriz if you know any. What kind of prices can we expect for a room?

Thanks! 🙂
GR Greaz Regular ·
Hi there,

For two weeks, your itinerary seems doable. Travel times can be long, so domestic flights stand out: they're super cheap and so much faster. That could let you see Tabriz, which is worth it, and maybe skip Kashan. Masuleh is nice—one night there is plenty. The surrounding countryside is amazing, and Gilan Province is really unique. Tehran might be shocking at first glance: the traffic is intense, and it doesn’t seem charming... Maybe save it for the end? But don’t miss the bazaar—it’s perfect for shopping and gifts.

A quick note on prices: I was struck by the inflation in August 2012. The IRR lost a lot of value. For us Europeans, that means travel is becoming more affordable, but unfortunately for Iranians, the cost of living is skyrocketing. Fuel is still subsidized and very cheap—about 10 cents per liter, if I remember right. For getting around: 1. plane, 2. bus (VIP is great), 3. shared taxi for short distances. For accommodation, expect around 15–20 € for a decent single room. I’ll try to dig up some good addresses to share! 🙂
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
VE Veekaway ·
Thanks Greaz for your reply and this info. Do you happen to have any benchmark prices to share, like the cost of a bottle of water, a taxi, or a simple meal? Thanks in advance for the tips! 🙂
GR Greaz Regular ·
In August 2012, 1 € = 25/26,000 IRR (1,000 IRR = 1k)

Taxi ride: 30/50k Sandwich/drink: 50k Meal: 100/150k Bottle of water: 5/10k 1kg of amazing pistachios ;) 300k

By plane: Tehran - Isfahan: 580k - 23 € Tehran - Tabriz: 620k - 24 € 3/4h prep / 1h flight

Tehran - Isfahan by VIP bus: 140k - 6 € - 6h drive

In Tehran: Night taxi IKA - city center: $20 Khayyam Hotel: $20 for a single hotelkhayyam@hotmail.com

In Isfahan: Hotel Jolfa: $18 for a single Buffet dinner: 150k Dodgy but tasty restaurant in the basement, stairs just before the hotel entrance. Burger/Coke at Abbassi Hotel: 100k Make sure to visit the Fire Temple, Chehel Sotun, Vank Cathedral, and the nearby churches.

In Qazvin: Alborz Hotel Visit Alamut (Ghazor Khan) by taxi: 900k

In Tabriz: Azerbaijan Hotel, Gostareh Hotel Visit Nasser Khan, manager of the tourism office Nasser speaks 7 languages and knows all the best tips The office moved to the left alley, still at the entrance of the bazaar. 555 2714 09 141 160 149

And so much more 😉
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
GR Greaz Regular ·
Oh yeah, for massage fans, in Tabriz ask Nasser to point you to a hammam. The place is rustic, and so is the massage 😛

Around Tabriz, it's worth checking out the churches. Some are far, but the roads are gorgeous. Kandovan is cool too. Near Isfahan, spend a relaxed day in Abyaneh.

BTW, Ramadan starts on July 9th this year, I think.
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
KU Kurt444 ·
Thanks for all the tips...

So, I’m going to try to take a domestic flight.

This would make:

Tehran 2 days Kashan 2 days with a trip to the surrounding villages Isfahan 4 days Yazd 3 days: I’d love to spend a night in the desert—any info on that? What about Ateshooni? Shiraz 2 days Flight back to Tehran

And including Tabriz: Day 1: Arrival in Tehran and immediate departure west with an overnight in Masouleh Tabriz 3 days: Any ideas for excursions there? Flight to Shiraz: 2 days there Yazd 2 days Isfahan 3 days Kashan: 1 day Tehran: 2 days

What do you think of these two routes? Which one do you think is the most doable and, more importantly, the most interesting for a first trip to Iran?

For the west, I’m open to any advice on the route because I’m not sure how to plan it...

Thanks in advance for your help...
GR Greaz Regular ·
I’d go for option 2, skipping Kashan to add an extra day in Yazd. One tweak: from Tehran, take a flight to Tabriz, then head down by bus or taxi to Masuleh and then Qazvin. From there, fly to Shiraz. In Tabriz, Nasser Khan can point you to all the possible excursions in the area. For example, 1 day in the old city and bazaar, 1 day in Kandovan, 1 day at the border and the Armenian churches...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/8109302624/
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
KU Kurt444 ·
Thanks for your super quick reply..

So I’ll take your advice and try to put this route together..

But I’m a bit worried it might make me rush around too much—though I’ll see if I can extend my trip a little.

In your opinion, is Kashan not worth seeing? I’ve had it recommended to me.

Also, I’ve heard a lot of mixed things about Shiraz—is it really a must-see that I shouldn’t miss under any circumstances?

Thanks, Best,
GR Greaz Regular ·
If you have to choose, Tabriz is better than Kashan 😉 As for Shiraz, it's a must-visit for Persepolis! And the old city is definitely worth spending a day or two in, in my opinion.
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
LO Lologorse ·
Hi there,

Personally, I preferred Kashan to Tabriz. There are some beautiful Qajar-era houses, and Fin Garden is stunning. It’s a great stop before discovering the wonders of Isfahan. Shiraz is a must-see for me, but that’s just my opinion.

Have a great trip!

Laurent
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
+1 for Kashan. In my opinion, the best interest-to-travel-time ratio.

Gorgeous Qajar houses in Kashan, absolutely unmatched by those in Tabriz. Not to mention the charming Bagh-e Fin.

Now, if you want to get lost in a bazaar, Tabriz is hard to beat. There’s also an interesting archaeological museum in Tabriz. Nearby, the Blue Mosque is a bit frustrating since only remnants of the decoration remain. History buffs will appreciate the Constitutional House. Don’t miss the Carpet Museum at the Town Hall (called "Salle Municipale" in the Lonely Planet—a cringe-worthy translation of "Town Hall"). With a little extra time, you can visit the Armenian monasteries of Kara Kelisa (St. Thaddeus) and St. Stephanos (near Jolfa) in the province.

Aesthetically speaking, I’d recommend Ardabil for its stunning Sufi shrine of Safi-od-Din, ancestor of the Safavids. But it’s best visited as part of a loop starting along the Caspian Sea.

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
NO Noraz ·
URGENT MESSAGE -> LEAVING TOMORROW!! Hi! My visa application was refused yesterday at Esender/Serû: Turkey/Iran land border. On top of being frustrating, I traveled 1200 km in 2 days and spent quite a bit of cash. (That said, the landscapes are breathtaking and I discovered the Kurdish people—so generous and endearing!!) I have to turn back toward Istanbul to try for a VOA at Tehran Airport.

I don’t have any return ticket (I want to make a trip and head back to the UAE in the south via Qeshm Island). I haven’t filled out any formalities beforehand. Just a French passport and the address of an Iranian friend there. Under these conditions, will it be possible to get the visa on arrival?? Thanks for your reply!! Nora
GR Greaz Regular ·
Note that since the June elections, the rules for issuing Iranian visas have changed. According to Iran Air, the Visa On Arrival is now only granted to travelers with a Round-Trip flight ticket. No VOA with a one-way ticket, then. Info to be confirmed... Have a great trip, keep us posted!
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
NO Noraz ·
Hey Greg!

Thanks for your quick reply. After thinking it over, I’ll book a round-trip flight if someone can confirm I can get the VOA once I’m in Tehran. Is there really no paperwork to fill out—no fingerprint at the embassy, no insurance, etc.? I’m worried they’ll deny my visa and my return ticket will slip away :((

Are travel agencies or airlines easy to find? Do you know any reliable ones?

I’ll keep everyone posted. Thanks!
GR Greaz Regular ·
I arrived at IKA in August 2012 for a two-week stay. Arrived around midnight, half an hour and 50 € later, visa approved. Cash payment only. They asked for a hotel reservation confirmation—I had one for the first night (hotelkhayyam at hotmail.com) and mentioned I’d be traveling around the country as a tourist afterward. I think they called the hotel to verify.

Just a feeling: maybe the "sleeping at someone’s place" plan isn’t ideal for these procedures...

Otherwise, Iran Air is great. The manager at Hotel Khayyam is friendly and efficient if you need anything ;)

Don’t hesitate to ask any questions! Happy travels
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
NO Noraz ·
Which currency is best to use in Iran: Dollar, Euro, or Rial? I'm in Turkey—should I exchange my Liras at Istanbul Airport, or where else can I do it? Is it possible at Tehran Airport? Where’s the best exchange rate?
GR Greaz Regular ·
In Iran, it's better to pay in Iranian Rials ;) You can exchange foreign currency everywhere. Generally, I exchange a small amount upon arrival at the airport—enough for one day. Then I exchange the rest gradually on the black market. No risks as far as I know; it's a common practice. Plus, it's much more advantageous—almost double the rate! Exchange rates can change significantly in just a few days.
Routes de la soie https://www.flickr.com/photos/44980358@N07/sets
FA FabGreg Globetrotter ·
I’ll keep you all posted.

How did it turn out in the end?

And what about your trip?

Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
NO Noraz ·
Hi there,

I’d recommend saving Tehran for last. If your trip is short and you need to cut cities from your route, drop Tehran. You’ll always come back to Iran! And if you really want to see Tehran, explore the North rather than the South. Finally, let the Lonely Planet guide you!
NO Noraz ·
Je vous tiendrez tous au courant.

Comment cela s'est-il passé finalement ?

Et quid de ton voyage ?

Fabrice

Avec des années de retard : oui je suis passée avec VOA mais avec 5 h d'attente en pleine nuit. Les australiens et autres arrivés avant moi passaient plus vite...

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