Hi everyone,
We’ve got our tickets for Mongolia in August 2027 (yes, booking way ahead saves money...).
We’re looking for contacts at a reliable local agency that could help us organize our trip, preferably with a French-speaking contact. First, we’d like to see what’s possible to do in 2 weeks, at what price, knowing we’d like to visit at least the Gobi Desert and Terejii National Park.
On one hand, we want to be independent for some things (accommodation in Ulaanbaatar, for example), but have support for the rest (domestic flights, driver, visits, transfers, etc.). If you’ve already traveled with an agency that exceeded your expectations, I’d love to get their details. Thanks a bunch!
Practical aspects spring 2026: border to Murmansk, to Pskov, SIM cards, internet.
by Esantirulo
Translated into English.
This is funny—this is the fourth time I’ve asked the question in this thread, and both you and Isantirulo keep answering something else.
The question is actually simple: it’s about freedom of speech in Russia, not in the EU, and not about quality of life either.
So if you don’t know, just say you don’t know instead of dodging the question.
The day I want to know about quality of life in Russia, I’ll ask "What’s the quality of life like in Russia?", and the day I want to know if freedom of speech is restricted in France or the EU, I’ll ask "Is freedom of speech restricted in France or the EU?"
"Is freedom of speech restricted in France or the EU?"
Hi there,
In France, you can criticize Trump and the US, Putin and Russia—obviously, you can criticize Iran. You can even question whether some highly touristy countries are democracies. But there’s one country you’re not allowed to criticize. However, if you go to Spain or Portugal, for example, it’s very different. You’ll see stickers (with slogans) and flags on the walls that would be banned in France.
It’s just an observation—draw your own conclusions....
Hi there,
In France, you can criticize Trump and the US, Putin and Russia—obviously, you can criticize Iran. You can even question whether some highly touristy countries are democracies. But there’s one country you’re not allowed to criticize. However, if you go to Spain or Portugal, for example, it’s very different. You’ll see stickers (with slogans) and flags on the walls that would be banned in France.
It’s just an observation—draw your own conclusions....
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
In Russia, there’s very strict control over political opinion, press expression, and union or activist activity. Like in Turkey, for example, though to a lesser degree.
France is very different: it’s a diffuse media and social pressure that makes it socially or professionally risky to bring up many topics if you’re not toeing the official or dominant line. Public speech is highly regulated, standardized, and formalized. It’s also a country where the government seizes control of opinion, and where many people—many politicians—dream of banning free expression on numerous subjects: history, health, religion, sexual identity, even the environment. France, Germany, and Spain follow this model. Central and Eastern European countries much less so, which explains why, as long as you’re not involved in politics, you feel freer and more at ease there. Far from these legal and moralistic hysterics, far from all kinds of lobbies that want the law to protect them and act accordingly.
Is that clearer?
Michel
France is very different: it’s a diffuse media and social pressure that makes it socially or professionally risky to bring up many topics if you’re not toeing the official or dominant line. Public speech is highly regulated, standardized, and formalized. It’s also a country where the government seizes control of opinion, and where many people—many politicians—dream of banning free expression on numerous subjects: history, health, religion, sexual identity, even the environment. France, Germany, and Spain follow this model. Central and Eastern European countries much less so, which explains why, as long as you’re not involved in politics, you feel freer and more at ease there. Far from these legal and moralistic hysterics, far from all kinds of lobbies that want the law to protect them and act accordingly.
Is that clearer?
Michel
Oh, great! A suggestion with no pressure—you could enter the April photo contest, it’s easier than keeping a travel journal. Funny timing, your trip to Japan fits the theme perfectly.
Have a great time in Japan.
Which flags are you talking about?
It’s also a country where the government seizes control of public opinion, and where many people—many politicians—dream of banning free expression on numerous topics: France, Germany, and Spain follow this model.
Go to Spain and take a walk, even in the smallest village in the middle of nowhere—you’ll immediately notice a huge difference, something that would be impossible in France.
Go to Spain and take a walk, even in the smallest village in the middle of nowhere—you’ll immediately notice a huge difference, something that would be impossible in France.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Hi Marie,
For Spain, I’ll take your word for it—I never go there. I can’t stand the Spanish vibe, the pace, the food, even the music, so I’ll 😏 avoid it. But you’re probably right.
Michel
For Spain, I’ll take your word for it—I never go there. I can’t stand the Spanish vibe, the pace, the food, even the music, so I’ll 😏 avoid it. But you’re probably right.
Michel
How do I access these photo contest pages?
Michel
Michel
For Spain, I’ll take your word for it
Pedro Sánchez is the only Western leader standing up to Trump, and he refused to let the US use bases in Spain for THEIR war in Iran.
Pedro Sánchez is the only Western leader standing up to Trump, and he refused to let the US use bases in Spain for THEIR war in Iran.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace "
( Alexandra David-Néel )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
Don’t tell me you don’t know how to do this. It’s really simple and basic. Just go to the April contest theme discussion and follow the steps.
Haha, you French folks...
Thousands of attacks (in Corsica, Marseille, Nice, Paris...) by my old ancestors, and you still don’t get it...
The Corsican language is oppressed, Corsican culture too... But we’d be free in your country? Haha!
Never EVER criticize the great France! Of course, clowns like Yellow Vests or others can do it, but Corsicans or New Caledonians... Where are the New Caledonian leaders? In France, in Fresnes prison... Just like the Corsicans, to break those family ties, so you don’t speak anymore...
Bunch of clowns—one day, it’s gonna blow up in your face!
The Corsican language is oppressed, Corsican culture too... But we’d be free in your country? Haha!
Never EVER criticize the great France! Of course, clowns like Yellow Vests or others can do it, but Corsicans or New Caledonians... Where are the New Caledonian leaders? In France, in Fresnes prison... Just like the Corsicans, to break those family ties, so you don’t speak anymore...
Bunch of clowns—one day, it’s gonna blow up in your face!
I don’t quite get the connection between Corsica and Russia.
The mafia?
The mafia?
La rue comme gagne-pain : concours de photos amical de septembre 2026
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Laugh it up, Frenchman, laugh;...
The mafia, like your country, killed us! Just writing a message about the French state on a Corsican wall gets us raided by counter-terrorism and tried for terrorism—with imprisonment off the island...
But there’s freedom of speech, or so it seems? For the French, yes... but not for others.
And you laugh about the mafia—was that sick humor, or do you just hate Corsicans so much that you’re okay with all the misery the mafia clans have brought on the Corsican people?
The mafia, like your country, killed us! Just writing a message about the French state on a Corsican wall gets us raided by counter-terrorism and tried for terrorism—with imprisonment off the island...
But there’s freedom of speech, or so it seems? For the French, yes... but not for others.
And you laugh about the mafia—was that sick humor, or do you just hate Corsicans so much that you’re okay with all the misery the mafia clans have brought on the Corsican people?
Rigoles le gaulois, rigoles;..
Stop whining, please—Corsica already has its own parliament and will certainly gain autonomy in the coming years. Not to mention that the local economy is heavily subsidized. What more do you want? And what are you going to do about it? Start a revolution all by yourself? We’re way off-topic here, sorry.
soit tu es haïes tellement les Corses
Oh yeah, that’s what I do all day. As if I had nothing better to do...
Stop whining, please—Corsica already has its own parliament and will certainly gain autonomy in the coming years. Not to mention that the local economy is heavily subsidized. What more do you want? And what are you going to do about it? Start a revolution all by yourself? We’re way off-topic here, sorry.
soit tu es haïes tellement les Corses
Oh yeah, that’s what I do all day. As if I had nothing better to do...
Didn’t it cross your mind that I could be Corsican?
Putting people in boxes...
Putting people in boxes...
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Start a revolution all by yourself?
Citizen Napoleon already took care of that.
But Russia didn’t bring him much luck...
(All roads lead to Moscow, after all.)
Citizen Napoleon already took care of that.
But Russia didn’t bring him much luck...
(All roads lead to Moscow, after all.)
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Hi there,
Here are a few links to help you understand freedom of expression in Russia. The links are on the "Telegram" app, which you can use on your computer or mobile.
I’ve shared a few, but if you’re blocked from reading certain authors who’ve written some messages, it simply means your country doesn’t accept the narratives explained by people living in other countries.
Using a VPN won’t help—if you’re French, it’s your phone number that’s blocked. However, I think you might be able to access the content with a Vietnamese number.
On Telegram: (non-exhaustive list)
Boris Karpov 🇷🇺 📰 *Russian Briefs*
Christelle Néant - Кристель Нэан
TASS_Monde
KOMPSOMOL
RUSpresse
InfoDefenseFRANCE 1
Rybar FR (his head is priced at **+:- $15 million** by the U.S.)
RYADOVOY | RUSSIA
This will let you read some articles and get an idea of what freedom of expression looks like in Russia. Best regards, Patrick
This will let you read some articles and get an idea of what freedom of expression looks like in Russia. Best regards, Patrick
Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé
Access to Telegram is pretty much locked down in Russia.
Putin doesn’t like narratives that differ from his own—whether they come from people inside the country or from abroad... And he wants Russians to use his Max system so he can control everything.
Russians living in Russia bypass censorship by using VPNs. But accessing VPNs themselves is becoming increasingly difficult...
As a result, by trying to monitor everything to ensure no rebellious hair sticks out, the Russian government has managed to mess up its own banking system.
See here
Self-sabotage—it’s almost beautiful! 😄
Putin doesn’t like narratives that differ from his own—whether they come from people inside the country or from abroad... And he wants Russians to use his Max system so he can control everything.
Russians living in Russia bypass censorship by using VPNs. But accessing VPNs themselves is becoming increasingly difficult...
As a result, by trying to monitor everything to ensure no rebellious hair sticks out, the Russian government has managed to mess up its own banking system.
See here
Self-sabotage—it’s almost beautiful! 😄
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C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
Good evening Agnès,
I don’t intend to explain to you that freedom of expression is at its best in Russia, but you should admit—with a bit of hindsight and observation, and less faith in public-service media—that similar projects keep popping up in France and the EU, pushing toward the same outcomes. So, are we really going less far than Putin’s Russia? We’ll see. Once a habit is established, it’s tempting, and most of these surveillance and control regulations are adopted without resistance by anesthetized populations. The Avia Law, fortunately struck down, renewed plans to eliminate anonymity on social networks and forums, bans on certain media, vague notions of "fake news," with the illusion of objective, interpretation-free information, the SREN Law, ARCOM, content moderation, and AI responses since 2024, etc.
I find your naivety disturbingly worrying. The EU—and France, far ahead of the rest—combines an unmatched data surveillance system (algorithmic surveillance and black boxes at internet providers) on the continent with ambitions to regain control over online publications through platforms.
Michel
I don’t intend to explain to you that freedom of expression is at its best in Russia, but you should admit—with a bit of hindsight and observation, and less faith in public-service media—that similar projects keep popping up in France and the EU, pushing toward the same outcomes. So, are we really going less far than Putin’s Russia? We’ll see. Once a habit is established, it’s tempting, and most of these surveillance and control regulations are adopted without resistance by anesthetized populations. The Avia Law, fortunately struck down, renewed plans to eliminate anonymity on social networks and forums, bans on certain media, vague notions of "fake news," with the illusion of objective, interpretation-free information, the SREN Law, ARCOM, content moderation, and AI responses since 2024, etc.
I find your naivety disturbingly worrying. The EU—and France, far ahead of the rest—combines an unmatched data surveillance system (algorithmic surveillance and black boxes at internet providers) on the continent with ambitions to regain control over online publications through platforms.
Michel
You and others here are living proof that freedom of speech is still fully intact here (meaning in a democracy). 😛
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Hello,
A French journalist who has been working in the Donbass since 2012 (if I recall correctly) has been the victim of several assassination attempts in the region. For this reason, she advocates that the word "PRESS" no longer be displayed on bulletproof vests.
Currently, they are the first targets in all ongoing conflicts.
She works for International Reporters Group as an editor.
We don’t choose our names.
And for your information, this is just a thought:
There are intelligent fools with extremely rational reasoning but with a flawed premise or logic in the middle, a bit like those math jokes where you deliberately overlook a division by zero.
Best regards,
Patrick
Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé
You and others here are living proof that freedom of speech remains intact here (meaning in a democracy).
Intact is a bit much; it’s increasingly restricted year after year and likely doomed in the medium term. We can no longer write here what we could back in VF’s early days, and you’re old enough to remember the media/comedians of the 80s and 90s, who’d certainly be censored today. That you can deny this is pretty unsettling.
Michel
Intact is a bit much; it’s increasingly restricted year after year and likely doomed in the medium term. We can no longer write here what we could back in VF’s early days, and you’re old enough to remember the media/comedians of the 80s and 90s, who’d certainly be censored today. That you can deny this is pretty unsettling.
Michel
and probably doomed in the medium term.
Yeah, yeah, we know. Like all those post-Soviet countries that have had to close themselves off to us Westerners (so, you) for the past 4 years... and yet they’re still wonderfully open to us. But things *will* change "in the medium term," we know that.
Yeah, yeah, we know. Like all those post-Soviet countries that have had to close themselves off to us Westerners (so, you) for the past 4 years... and yet they’re still wonderfully open to us. But things *will* change "in the medium term," we know that.
Hey La pagaille,
Here’s at least one message that doesn’t miss the point—though I don’t see a link.
Just a quick note, same as another user: Telegram is widely blocked in Russia, and the posts you mentioned might be one of the reasons for that.
As for information control in Vietnam, it’s also very effective 😉, even if certainly less so than in our neighbor China.
Just a quick note, same as another user: Telegram is widely blocked in Russia, and the posts you mentioned might be one of the reasons for that.
As for information control in Vietnam, it’s also very effective 😉, even if certainly less so than in our neighbor China.
and probably doomed in the medium term.
Yeah, yeah, we know. Like all those post-Soviet countries that have had to close themselves off to us Westerners (meaning you) for the past 4 years... and yet they’re still magnificently open to us. But that’s gonna change "in the medium term," we know.
I’m referring to the most likely scenario from Hal Brands, the American historian at Johns Hopkins: hypothesis number one for the future, the most probable, a return to a two-bloc Cold War-style world. I think it’s discussed, among other places, in *Le Grand Continent* in French, or here in English.
Michel
Yeah, yeah, we know. Like all those post-Soviet countries that have had to close themselves off to us Westerners (meaning you) for the past 4 years... and yet they’re still magnificently open to us. But that’s gonna change "in the medium term," we know.
I’m referring to the most likely scenario from Hal Brands, the American historian at Johns Hopkins: hypothesis number one for the future, the most probable, a return to a two-bloc Cold War-style world. I think it’s discussed, among other places, in *Le Grand Continent* in French, or here in English.
Michel
Hi there,
Sorry for the late reply—turns out using a VPN often blocks reading and replying on the Voyage Forum site.
I didn’t include any links, but you can just copy and paste the names I mentioned and search for them in "Telegram" to get direct access. Sometimes you’ll need to wait a bit for the site admins to approve you, just like anywhere if you want to join a conversation. (Telegram can be installed on your phone or computer.)
Yes, "Telegram" is currently blocked in Russia, and by checking out the suggested sites, you’ll get an idea of what’s being said about it. To use "Telegram" in Russia right now, you’ll need a VPN, VPS, or proxy. I’m not sure if people with a special "Telegram" subscription are affected too.
For China, what’s somewhat effective is the "Tor" browser.
Best, Patrick
Yes, "Telegram" is currently blocked in Russia, and by checking out the suggested sites, you’ll get an idea of what’s being said about it. To use "Telegram" in Russia right now, you’ll need a VPN, VPS, or proxy. I’m not sure if people with a special "Telegram" subscription are affected too.
For China, what’s somewhat effective is the "Tor" browser.
Best, Patrick
Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé
hypothesis number one for the future, the most likely: a return to a two-bloc world like the Cold War.
Hi, if I may digress, the most likely scenario is actually the breakup of the American confederation of states and the fragmentation of the states that make up Russia, yeah 😉 Just like the Roman Empire collapsed. So, moral of the story: Mr. Esantirulo should make the most of Russia while he still can
Hi, if I may digress, the most likely scenario is actually the breakup of the American confederation of states and the fragmentation of the states that make up Russia, yeah 😉 Just like the Roman Empire collapsed. So, moral of the story: Mr. Esantirulo should make the most of Russia while he still can
Hi there,
So, you’re seeing the dismantling of the United States and the Russian Federation as a top-tier possibility? I find that pretty bold. I’m in a lounge in Paris right now—right in front of me, there’s a Saudia and a Qatar plane—and I think we’re being fed some pretty skewed ideas by the media. That said, the EU’s position does raise questions, especially how its stance is isolating it so much. A turn of events, like history often throws at us, is always possible.
Michel
So, you’re seeing the dismantling of the United States and the Russian Federation as a top-tier possibility? I find that pretty bold. I’m in a lounge in Paris right now—right in front of me, there’s a Saudia and a Qatar plane—and I think we’re being fed some pretty skewed ideas by the media. That said, the EU’s position does raise questions, especially how its stance is isolating it so much. A turn of events, like history often throws at us, is always possible.
Michel
hi,
Russia is obviously a huge country.
From what I know, there are Chinese communities in Siberia living near the border.
It seems tough to monitor thousands of kilometers of border
the breakup of the American states confederation
That doesn’t strike me as completely far-fetched.
No more than Spanish becoming the primary language of this near-continent.
For Russia, Vladimir is in mourning—he just lost one of his allies. Democratically, no less. Double the grief...
That doesn’t strike me as completely far-fetched.
No more than Spanish becoming the primary language of this near-continent.
For Russia, Vladimir is in mourning—he just lost one of his allies. Democratically, no less. Double the grief...
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Hey Patrick,
Okay, I get why I didn’t have the links now 🙂
I’m not gonna download Telegram—I don’t need it.
But I did see a few articles about it on Meduza, plus quite a few testimonials criticizing the decision to block Telegram. They’re also apparently blocking VPN use now. I don’t know if that’s even possible, but things are getting complicated.
I refer to the most probable scenario by Hal Brands, the American historian from Johns Hopkins: hypothesis number one for the future, the most likely, a return to a two-bloc world akin to the Cold War.
I think it’s among other things in "Le Grand Continent" in French, or here in English.
Hi, Hal Brands does indeed support the idea of a return to two blocs, but centered around the USA and China, and more about economic and technological order. He considers Russia a second-tier power, with disruptive capabilities, but nothing more. And we must remember that in the East/West era, there was a whole part of the world that was "non-aligned."
Hi, Hal Brands does indeed support the idea of a return to two blocs, but centered around the USA and China, and more about economic and technological order. He considers Russia a second-tier power, with disruptive capabilities, but nothing more. And we must remember that in the East/West era, there was a whole part of the world that was "non-aligned."
Hi there,
Yes, VPNs are gradually being blocked, but there are still solutions, and Russians are resourceful.
For example, you can use a proxy to access Telegram and replace the VPN with a VPS—often faster than using a VPN.
However, for this site, a VPS currently allows you to open it, unlike a VPN.
But to follow the conversation on the site, I no longer receive messages from "VoyageForum," and I’m not sure if incoming messages are being blocked.
Best regards,
I just open the messages I’ve saved in my email and check to reply if needed.
Patrick
Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé
I ran into Lapagaille the other day in Kaliningrad. But no Chimay.
##################################
I took advantage of May 1st for a very long weekend. These dates on the two stamps at the bottom of the passport: 30.04.2026 - 04.05.2026:
Mamonovo-2 is the border crossing on the Kaliningrad-Gdańsk bus route.
Side note: this site isn’t accessible with a VPN, voyageforum.com blocks VPNs. I visited the site while I was in Kaliningrad, but:
########################
A quick word on the current state of VPNs on the Russian side, as of spring 2026.
There are several types of network protocols, i.e., data transmission algorithms. For VPNs, the two most commonly used are OpenVPN and WireGuard. But they’re easily detected and blocked if needed. Right now, on the Russian side, the protocols that work are variants of VLESS and Xray (more precisely, proxy protocols). The most advanced one is a WireGuard derivative developed by Russians, called AmneziaWG. This just means that the VPN products working in Russia right now use VLESS/Xray/AmneziaWG. I tested two providers: IVPN and AmneziaVPN (the product from the AmneziaWG team). And another product that offers VLESS and works differently in terms of anonymizing mesh topology: NymVPN. I tested them on both phone and laptop.
AmneziaVPN has the option to install remotely on a dedicated server, virtual or not—i.e., a VPS/VDS. You need to rent a server with a Debian-based Linux. The advantage is having resources all to yourself and an IP not flagged like those of commercial products.
That said: if the connection goes through a router managing multiple connections—a hub—you’ll need advanced configurations. Typically, in a hotel (a hub for several rooms), these VPNs won’t work. In that case, on your phone, you’ll need to disable the hotel’s Wi-Fi and use the 4G from your SIM card instead.
#################################
Activating foreign SIM cards without waiting for the 24-hour delay:
Right after crossing the border, I received this SMS in English:
The bottom one. The top one is the same but from late March when I was in Murmansk—I only noticed it later. So, you tap the link in the SMS, and it opens a page on the mobile operator’s site. No Wi-Fi needed, and the SIM’s 4G is blocked except for accessing this page. There’s a numeric code to enter for verification, and the SMS/internet block is lifted right away:
##################################
I took advantage of May 1st for a very long weekend. These dates on the two stamps at the bottom of the passport: 30.04.2026 - 04.05.2026:
Mamonovo-2 is the border crossing on the Kaliningrad-Gdańsk bus route.
Side note: this site isn’t accessible with a VPN, voyageforum.com blocks VPNs. I visited the site while I was in Kaliningrad, but:
########################
A quick word on the current state of VPNs on the Russian side, as of spring 2026.
There are several types of network protocols, i.e., data transmission algorithms. For VPNs, the two most commonly used are OpenVPN and WireGuard. But they’re easily detected and blocked if needed. Right now, on the Russian side, the protocols that work are variants of VLESS and Xray (more precisely, proxy protocols). The most advanced one is a WireGuard derivative developed by Russians, called AmneziaWG. This just means that the VPN products working in Russia right now use VLESS/Xray/AmneziaWG. I tested two providers: IVPN and AmneziaVPN (the product from the AmneziaWG team). And another product that offers VLESS and works differently in terms of anonymizing mesh topology: NymVPN. I tested them on both phone and laptop.
AmneziaVPN has the option to install remotely on a dedicated server, virtual or not—i.e., a VPS/VDS. You need to rent a server with a Debian-based Linux. The advantage is having resources all to yourself and an IP not flagged like those of commercial products.
That said: if the connection goes through a router managing multiple connections—a hub—you’ll need advanced configurations. Typically, in a hotel (a hub for several rooms), these VPNs won’t work. In that case, on your phone, you’ll need to disable the hotel’s Wi-Fi and use the 4G from your SIM card instead.
#################################
Activating foreign SIM cards without waiting for the 24-hour delay:
Right after crossing the border, I received this SMS in English:
The bottom one. The top one is the same but from late March when I was in Murmansk—I only noticed it later. So, you tap the link in the SMS, and it opens a page on the mobile operator’s site. No Wi-Fi needed, and the SIM’s 4G is blocked except for accessing this page. There’s a numeric code to enter for verification, and the SMS/internet block is lifted right away:
Log in first, then come back to this page.
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Hello!
We headed to Uzbekistan at the end of February 2026. The main goal of the trip was to explore the mountains on skis, but of course, we did some backpacking along the way too!
For skiing, we checked out two spots: first, the Chimgan and Amirsoy region. The infrastructure is brand new (hotels, ski lifts, restaurants). We managed some great tours, especially in Amirsoy, where the gondola gave us a real boost and let us go even further.
Next, we moved on to Gilan, just a stone’s throw from the Tajik border. The scenery was completely different—wild and rugged. We stayed in a super cozy little guesthouse, learned how to make Plov, and ate like kings. Despite the unpredictable weather, we had amazing ski tours. The villagers got a kick out of seeing us walk around with our skis on our shoulders—it’s probably not something they see every day!
After our skiing buddies headed home, we explored Khiva, Moynaq, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent before flying back.
As usual, we didn’t plan anything in advance, and traveling off-season was definitely the way to go. There was plenty of space everywhere. We traveled by train (except for Moynaq). It’s super easy—you buy tickets through the app, and you don’t even need to print them.
I couldn’t figure out how to post the links to the three videos I made from this trip, but you can find my channel in my profile. Have a look around! ;-)
If you’ve got any questions, feel free to reach out—I’d be happy to answer as best as I can!
For skiing, we checked out two spots: first, the Chimgan and Amirsoy region. The infrastructure is brand new (hotels, ski lifts, restaurants). We managed some great tours, especially in Amirsoy, where the gondola gave us a real boost and let us go even further.
Next, we moved on to Gilan, just a stone’s throw from the Tajik border. The scenery was completely different—wild and rugged. We stayed in a super cozy little guesthouse, learned how to make Plov, and ate like kings. Despite the unpredictable weather, we had amazing ski tours. The villagers got a kick out of seeing us walk around with our skis on our shoulders—it’s probably not something they see every day!
After our skiing buddies headed home, we explored Khiva, Moynaq, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent before flying back.
As usual, we didn’t plan anything in advance, and traveling off-season was definitely the way to go. There was plenty of space everywhere. We traveled by train (except for Moynaq). It’s super easy—you buy tickets through the app, and you don’t even need to print them.
I couldn’t figure out how to post the links to the three videos I made from this trip, but you can find my channel in my profile. Have a look around! ;-)
If you’ve got any questions, feel free to reach out—I’d be happy to answer as best as I can!
Recent information about this country is scarce, so I’m starting this post in addition to my travel journal to help fill the gap.
- Which airline from Europe?
Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.
The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.
- Bishkek Airport
The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.
Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)
There are taxis and a bus available.
- Entry Requirements
No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.
- Currency
The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...
You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.
The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.
Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.
Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.
- Paying
Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.
But it doesn’t always work.
So always carry cash with you!
If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.
- Cost of Living
It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...
On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!
Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).
In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).
The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.
- Getting Around
I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.
Personally, I chose to rent a car.
If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.
Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...
An international driver’s permit is required.
Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).
Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.
Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.
If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.
Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...
Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).
There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.
Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).
Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!
Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.
A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!
Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!
Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)
- Eating
I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.
I was both wrong and right.
Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...
Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.
Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.
Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.
If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.
On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!
And alcohol?
It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).
The deadly specialty?
White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.
- Accommodation
In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.
Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.
Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).
These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.
So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!
Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.
Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!
- Climate
I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.
I packed too many warm clothes...
If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.
A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.
It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.
Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.
In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)
- Communication
I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.
We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.
To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.
Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.
Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.
The police too...
- Religion
There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.
In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.
In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.
For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.
There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...
You can find the detailed account of the trip here.
- Which airline from Europe?
Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.
The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.
- Bishkek Airport
The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.
Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)
There are taxis and a bus available.
- Entry Requirements
No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.
- Currency
The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...
You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.
The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.
Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.
Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.
- Paying
Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.
But it doesn’t always work.
So always carry cash with you!
If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.
- Cost of Living
It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...
On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!
Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).
In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).
The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.
- Getting Around
I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.
Personally, I chose to rent a car.
If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.
Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...
An international driver’s permit is required.
Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).
Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.
Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.
If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.
Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...
Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).
There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.
Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).
Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!
Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.
A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!
Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!
Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)
- Eating
I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.
I was both wrong and right.
Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...
Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.
Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.
Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.
If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.
On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!
And alcohol?
It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).
The deadly specialty?
White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.
- Accommodation
In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.
Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.
Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).
These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.
So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!
Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.
Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!
- Climate
I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.
I packed too many warm clothes...
If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.
A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.
It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.
Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.
In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)
- Communication
I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.
We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.
To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.
Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.
Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.
The police too...
- Religion
There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.
In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.
In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.
For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.
There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...
You can find the detailed account of the trip here.
Since last year, the unification of the Russian visa with Belarus has been in effect.
For reference, EU citizens haven’t needed a visa for Belarus for two years. However, it wasn’t possible to travel to Russia. Only Belarusian and Russian citizens could move freely within the union.
With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.
In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.
This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.
It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.
So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.
This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.
The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.
Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.
Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html
These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.
With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.
In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.
This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.
It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.
So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.
This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.
The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.
Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.
Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html
These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Uzbekistan in three weeks for a month.
We still haven’t finalized our itinerary, and the extreme heat forecasted might really impact our plans. I’d love any advice on places where the heat might be a bit more bearable...
We’re arriving in Urgench and leaving from Tashkent. Generally, we only travel by bus, train, or group excursions—we don’t rent vehicles...
Originally, the plan was to visit Khiva, possibly head to Nukus for an excursion to the Aral Sea. I would’ve preferred a detour into Kazakhstan to Mangystau, but it seems either impossible or very complicated... Next, we’d head toward Tashkent, obviously stopping in Bukhara and Samarkand, with a possible stop in Nurata? Or maybe from Samarkand, a quick trip to Tajikistan in the mountains? From Tashkent, we could go to Chorvoq or the surrounding area, where it seems a little cooler, and do some hikes around Charvak Lake. I’m struggling to find solid info on Ugam-Chatkal National Park... What about the Ferghana Valley or Kokand, where the heat seems more intense? Then back to Tashkent.
If you’ve got any great tips, I’d really appreciate it!
Philippe
We’re heading to Uzbekistan in three weeks for a month.
We still haven’t finalized our itinerary, and the extreme heat forecasted might really impact our plans. I’d love any advice on places where the heat might be a bit more bearable...
We’re arriving in Urgench and leaving from Tashkent. Generally, we only travel by bus, train, or group excursions—we don’t rent vehicles...
Originally, the plan was to visit Khiva, possibly head to Nukus for an excursion to the Aral Sea. I would’ve preferred a detour into Kazakhstan to Mangystau, but it seems either impossible or very complicated... Next, we’d head toward Tashkent, obviously stopping in Bukhara and Samarkand, with a possible stop in Nurata? Or maybe from Samarkand, a quick trip to Tajikistan in the mountains? From Tashkent, we could go to Chorvoq or the surrounding area, where it seems a little cooler, and do some hikes around Charvak Lake. I’m struggling to find solid info on Ugam-Chatkal National Park... What about the Ferghana Valley or Kokand, where the heat seems more intense? Then back to Tashkent.
If you’ve got any great tips, I’d really appreciate it!
Philippe
Hi everyone,
My partner and I are planning a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August and would love your input to refine our itinerary.
We’re thinking of spending the first part of the trip in the Almaty region, including the following spots:
Singing Barkhan (singing dune)
Altyn-Emel National Park
Charyn Canyon National Park
Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (Kensu River Valley lakes)
possibly Ile-Alatau National Park
After that, we’d like to explore the Mangystau region around Aktau, with highlights like:
Airakty
Tuzbair Salt Lake
Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")
Gora Bokty
Bozzhyra
Three Brothers Peaks
We’re planning to rent a 4x4 in each region and have a few questions:
Could you recommend any reliable 4x4 rental companies in both the Almaty and Aktau/Mangystau regions?
I’ve read that the Mangystau region can get extremely hot in August. Do you think it’s better to start with Almaty and finish with Aktau to hopefully have milder temperatures (less extreme😛)? For us, doing the reverse would be simpler in terms of international flights, the domestic flight, and it’d also be significantly cheaper.
Regarding the places listed above, do you think there are any must-see spots we should add, or conversely, any sites that aren’t worth the detour?
More generally, do you have any practical tips for a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August (road conditions, fuel availability, reservations, weather, safety, etc.)?
Thanks so much for your feedback and advice! P.S.: We’re used to traveling independently and driving 4x4s in sometimes challenging conditions (Namibia, Tanzania, Bolivia—South Lipez, Chile, etc.), and we’re also experienced hikers, used to self-sufficient treks (Patagonia, Huayhuash, Three Peaks in Nepal, among others). We’re just mentioning this to give you an idea of our level of self-sufficiency for this kind of trip.
Singing Barkhan (singing dune)
Altyn-Emel National Park
Charyn Canyon National Park
Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (Kensu River Valley lakes)
possibly Ile-Alatau National Park
After that, we’d like to explore the Mangystau region around Aktau, with highlights like:
Airakty
Tuzbair Salt Lake
Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")
Gora Bokty
Bozzhyra
Three Brothers Peaks
We’re planning to rent a 4x4 in each region and have a few questions:
Could you recommend any reliable 4x4 rental companies in both the Almaty and Aktau/Mangystau regions?
I’ve read that the Mangystau region can get extremely hot in August. Do you think it’s better to start with Almaty and finish with Aktau to hopefully have milder temperatures (less extreme😛)? For us, doing the reverse would be simpler in terms of international flights, the domestic flight, and it’d also be significantly cheaper.
Regarding the places listed above, do you think there are any must-see spots we should add, or conversely, any sites that aren’t worth the detour?
More generally, do you have any practical tips for a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August (road conditions, fuel availability, reservations, weather, safety, etc.)?
Thanks so much for your feedback and advice! P.S.: We’re used to traveling independently and driving 4x4s in sometimes challenging conditions (Namibia, Tanzania, Bolivia—South Lipez, Chile, etc.), and we’re also experienced hikers, used to self-sufficient treks (Patagonia, Huayhuash, Three Peaks in Nepal, among others). We’re just mentioning this to give you an idea of our level of self-sufficiency for this kind of trip.
Hi everyone!
I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.
We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.
The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.
We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.
I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.
As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.
Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!
We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.
I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!
I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.
We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.
The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.
We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.
I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.
As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.
Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!
We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.
I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!
Hi there,
After a long absence, I’m back on this forum where I used to post under the username NealMorse (mostly about off-the-beaten-path spots in the American West...).
I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).
One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!
Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).
One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!
Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
Hi there, 🙂
I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).
I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.
I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.
My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.
From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.
Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?
---/---
About crossing between the two countries:
- On foot - In a rental car
Quick? Easy?
---/---
Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)
---/---
Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?
A 4x4 or something else?
Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?
I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉
Thanks for your answers !
I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).
I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.
I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.
My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.
From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.
Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?
---/---
About crossing between the two countries:
- On foot - In a rental car
Quick? Easy?
---/---
Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)
---/---
Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?
A 4x4 or something else?
Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?
I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉
Thanks for your answers !
Hi there,
I wanted to book a train between these two cities, but there’s no availability at the times I need.
Could you tell me if it’s possible to find a taxi to connect these two cities, or book a shared taxi for the four of us?
Thanks for your help
Estonians have become real pests at the Narva border control.
EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:
https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony
Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.
https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana
Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...
EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:
https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony
Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.
https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana
Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...
Hello,
Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:
Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €
Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:
Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €
Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Hi there,
I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...
So I’m wondering how it all works?
You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏
But after that?
I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.
If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊
Thanks! 🙂
I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...
So I’m wondering how it all works?
You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏
But after that?
I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.
If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊
Thanks! 🙂
Hi there! 🙂
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I was lucky enough to spend two stays in Tajikistan between October and November 2025. I met Fayziddin, who’s a French-speaking guide and very knowledgeable—he really knows how to share his love for his country and his valley. He’ll welcome you to his village and, in the future, to a hostel that’s currently under construction. I can’t recommend him enough!
Hi there,
We’re planning to explore Uzbekistan this summer (with the weather constraints that come with it). Our itinerary includes the three classic cities plus a few side trips here and there. We still have one week left that we’d like to dedicate to hiking. We were thinking of heading to Kyrgyzstan, but I’m open to other suggestions if we stay in Uzbekistan. Thanks!
Hi there,
After making good use of the tips on this site, I’m now adding my own contribution.
We’ve just returned from 25 days exploring Mongolia.
A trip that took us from the capital to the Gobi Desert, from the ancient capital Karakhorum to the Orkhon Valley, and also off the beaten path to places close to nature and nomadic life, all thanks to our guide Hacha.
I’m used to traveling as a couple or solo, in "backpacker" mode, and I rarely—or only occasionally—hire a guide. But this time, I have to admit that choosing a guide-interpreter and a driver was an excellent idea.
We set off as a group of four to share the costs. I’d spoken with Hacha, a Mongolian who used to work at the French Alliance, speaks perfect French, and has been organizing trips for over 25 years.
Needless to say, she knows her job inside out and has built strong relationships with nomadic families over the years. Since she only works with small groups, she can steer clear of the main tourist spots. With her help, we were able to personalize our itinerary—and even adjust it as we went along. For example, we’d planned to attend the Naadam festival in a small town, but we found out there was another festival two days later that wasn’t on the schedule. So we tweaked our route to catch both, and we didn’t regret it.
Anyway, if you’d like more details or Hacha’s contact info, feel free to reach out.
Hi there,
I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;
Thanks!
Patrice
I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;
Thanks!
Patrice
Hello,
New year, new questions...😛
Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?
I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...
Thanks 🙂
New year, new questions...😛
Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?
I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...
Thanks 🙂
Hi,
Does anyone know if the travel agency "NOUVINI" in Tashkent still exists???
Or do you have another agency to recommend???
Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
Jean Pierre
Hi there,
We’re a group of 4 people who prefer to travel independently but also want to use local guides at different stages of our trip.
My question is: should we plan to hire a different guide for each stage, or just one guide for all the different legs? We’re planning to travel between stages either by taxi or public transport (train, plane…).
Our itinerary is pretty classic (3 weeks):
Visit Tashkent
Tashkent – Ferghana Valley (by train)
Explore the valley and return to Tashkent with a guide and taxi
Tashkent – Nukus (flight)
Nukus – Khiva by taxi + guide for Khiva visit
Khiva – Bukhara by taxi + guide for Bukhara visit
Bukhara – Lake Aydar Kul – Samarkand by taxi + guide for Samarkand
Samarkand – Tashkent (by train).
Is the cost reasonable for the transfers between stages? Also, I’m open to any suggestions or tips (recommended guides, etc.).
Thanks!
Bernard
Hi there,
I’d like to spend 2–3 days in the Korgaljyn area in May to photograph flamingos and other birds.
I’ll be in Astana and I’m looking for a tour that includes accommodation so I can stay for 2 days.
I’ve found the buses from Astana and info about the park’s facilities, but no accommodation or guided outings.
Has anyone done this?
Thanks for your help
Hi,
Did you attend the show at the Nadir Divan Begi Madrasa in Bukhara? What are the details for booking? Thanks in advance.
Have a great day and happy travels!
Danielle
Hi,
Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?
Thanks
Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?
Thanks
Hi everyone, happy to be back on VF!
I’ll be in Uzbekistan this coming April and will of course visit the three classics—Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. However, I’d also love to get out of these cities to explore the Uzbek countryside and experience its nature. Mountains, steppes, etc. Ideally, with some great hikes passing through villages. Any spots you’d recommend? Thanks in advance
Hi,
We were wondering if anyone has recently experienced the Tashkent / Fergana Valley route by bus or taxi?
We’re landing in Tashkent at 10:30 PM with our international flight. To head to Fergana the next day, the only trains available are very early in the morning or very late in the evening (arriving at 11:30 PM in Fergana). So, we’d like to avoid that mode of transport if possible to spend half a day in Tashkent and relax a bit.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re heading to Saint Petersburg from June 30 to July 7, 2026, and we’ll be arriving late (9 PM) at our hotel on June 30. Unfortunately, the hotel can’t pick us up from the train station. Is it easy to get a taxi at Saint Petersburg coach station?
Thanks for your help!
Hi,
We’d like to know if it’s easy to visit the Sarmych-Sai gorges from Bukhara as a day trip. Do homestays and hotels offer this?
Thanks
Hello,
We’re a senior couple planning to spend around 3 weeks in Uzbekistan, either starting at the end of March or mid-April. We’ll begin in Khiva (Urgench) and finish in Tashkent (via Termez). We prefer traveling independently as much as possible, at our own pace, and are considering hiring drivers for specific legs of our journey.
Here’s our rough itinerary:
4 nights in Khiva
4 in Bukhara
5 or 6 in Samarkand (we’d like to do a day trip to the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan)
2 in Termez
Then Tashkent and the Fergana Valley
2 in Tashkent
Does this seem balanced? Any suggestions? We’re not planning to go as far as the Aral Sea or stay in a yurt camp.
Is the weather favorable at the end of March (risk of rain)? Or would mid-April be better?
What’s the typical cost for a driver’s services?
Thank you in advance for any tips that could help us with our plans.
Andrea