Discussion · VoyageForum

Translated into English.

Original post

Esantirulo

Veteran618 posts

2026-03-28

I took a few days to get some fresh air outside the Schengen-NATO prison. Between March 18, 2026, and March 25, 2026, as shown by the passport stamps:

Borisoglebsk is the Russian border checkpoint after Kirkenes, on the road to Murmansk.

Kirkenes is a tiny town with a correspondingly small airport. Nothing has changed there: the minibuses to Murmansk wait on the right as you exit the airport. They’re synchronized with the two daily flights from Oslo—the SAS around 11:00 AM and Norwegian around 11:30 AM. They stop in Kirkenes at the corner of the Scandic for an hour, where other passengers can board, then head straight to the nearby border.

This is the least hassle Frontex/Schengen border. The Norwegian agent quickly scans your passport, and that’s it. No customs, since Norway is Schengen but not in the EU. On the Russian side, there’s a passport check and a quick customs inspection. All in all, crossing both the Norwegian and Russian checkpoints takes about 15 minutes.

A paper visa is required; e-visas aren’t accepted.

Two companies run the route: Avto Ekspress and Borodin: https://ae51.ru/routes/kirkenes-murmansk/ https://borodinbus.com/

The one-way fare is 5,500 ₽. You can either buy it online in rubles with a MIR card or make a formal reservation and pay in NOK cash to the driver. I took Borodin, and the price in NOK was much more expensive than in ₽.

=========================

On March 25, I left from Pskov via the Estonian border post at Luhaama. I spent three days in Murmansk, flew to St. Petersburg (SPB), stayed there for two days, then took an evening train to Pskov.

Since the end of February—and reportedly until the end of May—the Estonians have restricted the opening hours of the two border crossings near Pskov: Koidula (Pechory on the Russian side) and Luhaama (Izborsk on the Russian side). They’re closed at night between 7:00 PM and 7:00 AM. Right now, there’s a bus from Pskov at 7:00 AM to the border. It drops you off at the end of the road where truckers—many Kazakh and Serbian—are parked on the side. You finish the rest on foot to the barrier, where there’s a quick initial check for Ukrainian stamps in passports. Then you walk to the customs building, followed by passport control at the kiosk for motorists. After that, it’s a 500-meter walk to the Estonian checkpoint. At the moment, things seem calmer. Passport control is quick. The usual silly questions in English: "Where were you? Where are you going?" I just gave my most clueless smile: "Sorry, I don’t understand." Yeah, right—I don’t speak English, especially not at an Estonian border with a French passport. If they’re in a mood, though... A very quick bag inspection. Once you exit the Estonian post, walk to the bus stop sign by the road where another coach takes you to Riga.

The catch: in my case, last Wednesday, there were two passengers (Russians) with old Ukrainian stamps in their passports. The bus from the Estonian post to Riga was supposed to leave around 9:30 AM. We ended up leaving around noon after the two were grilled by the FSB. Since it was a weekday outside of holidays, the bus was half-empty. The fuller the bus and the more people with Ukrainian stamps, the worse the nightmare. Don’t book a same-day flight from Riga. I had a flight at 6:00 PM, so it worked out.

=============

The Kirkenes-Murmansk route is still clearly the easiest and fastest. But it’s not the most convenient since it’s way up north.

Next, I’d say the Gdansk-Kaliningrad route in the middle of the week. Avoid weekends and holiday departures/returns.

Avoid the Narva-Ivangorod route during Christmas, Easter, May 9, and *all* summer.

==============

About flights from Murmansk to St. Petersburg: prices are good. I bought my ticket the day before departure on Rossiya for 7,500 ₽, including 10 kg of luggage + a handbag.

It’s the tail end of the northern lights season, and there were still crowds of Chinese tourists.

By the way, Murmansk is twinned with Harbin:

Chinese tourists are the largest foreign group, followed by Indians, then a mix of others from the Far East, Turks, Arabs, etc. Brochures are bilingual—Russian and Chinese:

============================

But let’s talk practical stuff. --

My domestic SIM card was restricted for SMS and internet for 24 hours. After that, if you want to keep using SMS, don’t turn off your phone—restarting triggers another 24-hour purgatory.

My Russian SIM cards (Megafon, MTS, Beeline) were activated as soon as I logged into their respective apps with my credentials.

Internet --

Telegram is heavily slowed down by authorities. To use it, you need to connect through proxy servers, which you load into the latest version of the app. Traffic is then rerouted internally within Telegram to servers outside Russia (Germany, Poland, Sweden, etc.). You can find these proxies on various channels. One is ChatVPN—check their website too.

For general internet use, like browsing the web, VPNs that work right now use the VLESS protocol. You can find several on Telegram by searching "VPN." A few free days, then payment in rubles or crypto.

Rozkomnadzor’s team are experts at this, so things can change. It’s a constant cat-and-mouse game.

Pskov is a special case. The city is near Estonia and has a large military base. Depending on NATO drone swarms launched from the Baltics, Wi-Fi can be completely suspended except for the most essential mobile apps. The drone swarms use the 4G network, and the powerful electronic jamming and drone suppression systems cause periods without Wi-Fi—including in hotels. Wired connections aren’t affected.

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-03-28

Hey, Just a quick question—did you manage to "escape the Schengen prison" for good, so you won’t be going back? That’d be unheard of: an escapee voluntarily returning to their cell. For entering the Schengen Zone, it’s still super straightforward for citizens—just a passport scan, and you’re good to go, no matter where you enter. Otherwise, that’s interesting, but there’s something else I don’t quite get: what are these "drone swarms" you’re talking about? From where to where? What’s the goal?

Esantirulo Veteran ·2026-03-29

you managed to "escape the Schengen prison," so you won’t be going back?

Yes, I did go back. I live and work in the Schengen Area.

Entering the Schengen Area is always very simple for nationals—a passport scan, and you’re good to go, no matter where you enter.

I’m a Schengen citizen. That said, when arriving from Russia, most border checkpoints aren’t equipped with automated gates—except for Narva in Estonia, which recently added them. The officers always ask questions in English like: "Where were you?" "Where are you going?" I respond with: "Sorry, I don’t understand," and if the officer doesn’t speak French, that’s the end of the questions. Actually, they ask "Where are you going?" when you’re exiting toward Russia. I reply in French, "I don’t understand." A couple of times, I had persistent officers who pulled out their phones to translate the question online. I’d answer, "I’m going to Samarkand, Uzbekistan," just to get them off my back. Anyway, it’s none of their business where you’re headed when leaving Schengen. The fact that automated gates don’t ask questions proves these questions are nonsense.

When I called it a "prison," it’s precisely because the levels of digital tracking and surveillance—among other things—are very high in the EU. Less so in Norway, which is Schengen but not in the EU. Censorship is strong in some countries, and internet users are easily criminalized for political expression.

What are the "drone swarms" you’re talking about? From where to where? What’s the objective?

NATO, in the form of Ukrainian soldiers, regularly sends drone swarms with explosive payloads to try and damage industrial sites, hydrocarbon depots, etc. When targeting northern Russia, these drones don’t fly directly over southern Russian steppes from Ukraine but are launched or pass through NATO airspace—that is, the Baltic states. The city of Pskov is very close to the Estonian border. The drone formations drop mini 4G routers along the way to coordinate, in addition to the ones onboard. It’s low-altitude, slow navigation using 4G antennas for geolocation. That’s why, from time to time, when these formations are detected, 4G is almost suspended, reduced to basic services. Electronic neutralization systems that disrupt drones in flight also involve pausing 4G.

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-03-29

Hey, Thanks for your detailed replies. So you're saying there’s no internet censorship in Russia? Less than in the EU, at least, and that opponents aren’t tracked online and are free to publish their negative opinions about the regime without being bothered? That’s interesting.

I’m a Schengen citizen but don’t live there anymore—I’ve never had any issues entering. Whether by plane, boat, or land, it’s never taken me more than 2 minutes at the entry point.

The drones you mentioned aren’t NATO-launched, then? If they are, you’ll need to provide some solid, convincing evidence to back that up.

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-03-29

Hello,

I can understand your ironic disbelief, and it’s clear that Esantirulo speaks from the heart, feeling a sense of injustice and a world that’s closing in. That said, two things shouldn’t be overlooked: - On "the other side," since the world has reverted to pre-1990 norms, let’s call it that, the same disbelief reigns, along with the same conviction of being obviously in the right, based on similar arguments. - It’s hard to deny that freedom of expression has significantly declined in Europe over the past few years, and that the desire to control opinion and enforce conformity in speech is no longer even concealed. This is especially true in French political and media discourse, where the state’s push to regain control is front and center—think the Avia law, among others. Is it more intense on the other side of the world than ours? Perhaps, likely even, but the direction is the same.

In any case, everyone is free to think what they wish, but Esantirulo’s insights are very interesting, and their interpretation of events—when put into context—is highly enlightening.

Michel

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-03-29

Hey Michel, I’m not talking about feelings or anything like that. It’s just that I’m surprised people willingly go back to the prison they managed to escape from.

I’m also talking about my experience entering Schengen—always very quick, even when coming from countries that, let’s say, aren’t exactly in the West’s good books, like China, Iran, or Russia, where I unfortunately only stayed for 2 nights—no time for sightseeing.

As for NATO’s drone swarms, I’m just quoting what I’ve heard. When you make claims like that, you’ve got to back them up.

On freedom of speech—I’m only talking about France here—it seems like a lot of newspapers and political parties don’t hold back when criticizing the current government. I was in France under Mitterrand, and *Le Figaro* was never shut down. Under Chirac or Sarkozy, *Libé* and *L’Humanité* were the same. I happen to live in a country where information is tightly controlled, to put it mildly, where criticizing the government on social media can land you in prison for "abuse of democratic freedom," as it’s officially called. Criticizing Schengen, the EU, NATO, or whatever doesn’t bother me, but openly saying—without any risk—that freedom of expression is in decline just proves it’s not true. In countries without freedom of speech, you *can’t* do that.

Now, Russia is definitely a beautiful country, one I’d love to visit as soon as I get the chance, and I’d come back just as enchanted as always.

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-03-29

I’m not talking about feelings or anything like that. It’s just that I’m surprised people willingly go back to the prison they managed to escape from.

There’s a metaphorical dimension to his point that won’t have escaped you.

I’m also talking about my experience entering Schengen—always very quick, even when coming from countries that, let’s say, aren’t exactly in the West’s good books, like China, Iran, or Russia, where I unfortunately only stayed for 2 nights, not enough time for sightseeing.

In my opinion, he’s referring to the police and customs in the Baltic states, maybe Poland, and mainly the land borders of Russia, and probably Belarus. If you’re coming via Istanbul or Yerevan and by plane, entering Schengen isn’t an issue, though it’s still better not to enter directly into your country of residence.

I’m coming back to freedom of expression, but just talking about France—it seems to me that many newspapers and political parties don’t hesitate to criticize the current government.

Criticizing a government is one thing, but criticizing the foundations is very poorly accepted and understood. Debate exists, but it operates within a limited pool of conformist viewpoints, carried by a press that’s almost entirely subsidized. As long as you accept the regulatory principles and dogmas upfront, you’re free to express yourself. The moment you transgress or don’t share them, you fall under increasingly strict and intrusive control. Liberal opinions, for example, are very poorly received, as are nationalist ones. They exist, but everything is done to discredit them and sometimes ban their expression.

In countries without freedom of expression, you just can’t do that.

It’s a lot more complicated than that. In France and Europe, there’s a clear shift in what’s considered off-limits or subject to control. I don’t know how closely you follow life in Europe and France, but the state’s desire to regain control of the narrative, to monitor public and even private expressions, is openly asserted. You’ll easily find traces of this. Censorship isn’t direct; it’s indirect, through judicial and technocratic pressures. A system is being created where self-censorship becomes the safest way to protect economic interests. There’s also, in the discourse of AI—Western AI, I mean, I don’t know about others—a very strong normative force dictating what you should or shouldn’t think. That’s why they pose a huge danger to freedoms. Yet we’re increasingly, and more quickly, being ideologically shaped by them.

Michel

Esantirulo Veteran ·2026-03-29

So you’re saying there’s no internet control in Russia? Less than in the EU at least, and that opponents aren’t tracked online and are free to publish negative opinions about the regime without being harassed?

Yes, there’s significantly less surveillance and judicial harassment than in the EU, especially in Germany and then France.

My initial comment covers internet among other practical aspects. The internet is obviously partly controlled in Russia, but much less so than in the EU. It’s more about some control and a lot of recent blockages. The blockages mainly target American surveillance and data-collection tools like Facebook, X, Instagram, LinkedIn, etc. I explain how it’s currently possible to bypass these existing blockages.

Telegram, which is very popular in Russia, was compromised after its CEO Pavel Durov was tricked into going to France, where he was arrested, then released under judicial supervision and bail. After that, some Telegram channels were blocked for EU SIM cards and for everyone when in EU territory. Example: I live in Norway, which is Schengen but not EU. I can access RT:

Here, I connect my phone to a VPN in France:

and RT is blocked:

Police repression in Germany and France is significant, particularly regarding the genocide in Gaza. Example: an Italian cartoonist, Elena Mistrello, traveling to a comic festival in France. She takes a flight to Toulouse, and as she exits the plane, police are waiting and order her to leave the country or be placed in a detention center. She’s Italian! The police tell her she’s on a territory ban list. Yet she was never informed—she’s Italian, an EU citizen from a founding country—that she’d be banned from France, which violates Schengen rules for an Italian. If such a measure by one Schengen country against another is possible, the person should at least be informed. Instead, she bought a flight ticket to Toulouse, and upon arrival, she’s ordered to turn back. She has no legal history whatsoever. Why was she put on a "serious threat to public order" list? A few years ago, she participated in drawing workshops in the West Bank. So clearly, it’s the Israeli lobby exerting huge control within the French regime. (There are Israeli MPs in the French Assembly without any issue. Imagine the same with Franco-Russian MPs....)

Considered a "serious threat to public order," Italian cartoonist Elena Mistrello expelled from France

This illustrates that when she bought her flight ticket, her name—likely flagged in France—appeared in the system. This is the result of complete digital tracking. Not only are flight tickets nominative, but so are train and bus tickets. There’s tracking of payment method owners (credit cards) and the ticket holder’s name. The EU’s Digital Services Act (DSA) strengthens total tracking and blockages without notice.

Control in the EU is far more powerful because it starts with full access to social security and banking data by regimes. Russia is far from having such an integrated level of control in its administrative system. They’re starting to work on it to counter terrorist measures the EU is trying to impose in Russia.

Where has Snowden been since his revelations about American surveillance systems? Sheltered in Russia. Assange, on the other hand, spent years in high-security prison in the UK after a judicial setup by a Swedish judge from the pro-American faction of the political class.

Since December 2025, a former Swiss officer specializing in conflict zones, who ended his career working for the OSCE and NATO in Ukraine (2014–2017) and became a conflict analyst, was banned from banking by an extrajudicial decision—no charges, no trial. His bank accounts were frozen, and he’s banned from staying or traveling in the EU, even though he lives in Brussels (!!!). In practice, this means he can’t leave the EU to return to his home country, Switzerland, and most importantly, he can’t use his bank account—he simply can’t live, i.e., buy food or pay bills. There was no judicial process. Friends and supporters buy him food and pay his bills; otherwise, he couldn’t survive. Yet no trial, no accusation, no review—just an administrative decision. See: Jacques Baud.

There are countless lesser cases of convictions in Germany for criticizing members of the government under Scholz and now Merz. Compiling a detailed list would require an entire book.

So yes, you’re more at ease in Russia.

I’m a Schengen citizen but don’t live there anymore. I’ve never had a problem entering—whether by plane, boat, or land—the entry point never took more than 2 minutes.

Try going to a manual Schengen border post (for now, only Narva in Estonia has automated gates) on the Russian border. Agents ask Schengen passport holders questions in English: "Where were you?" "Where are you going?" If you get a stubborn one, they might insist. But I insist: "French passport, I speak French." End of story. Though it’s nonsense—if there’s a question about the passport holder’s legitimacy, they compare fingerprints with those in the passport chip. They could call a sworn translator to whom I could say, "Tell them they’re idiots and I don’t give a damn about Estonia or Estonians." Maybe I’d end up in an Estonian gulag for criticizing the regime, the Estonian soul, and the people.

The drones you’re talking about aren’t NATO drones, then—unless you can provide solid, convincing evidence.

Drones flying over the Baltics to target Russia are *ipso facto* NATO drones. Let’s flip it: suppose a drone from Russia hits a fuel depot in Lithuania, and the Russians claim, "It’s not our drone—it took off from northern Ukraine, flew along the Belarusian border, exited and flew over a bit of Russia before diving into Lithuania."

But practically, this has little impact except for significant 4G degradation in the affected Russian border area, like Pskov, and occasionally in other cities with peripheral sites that might be targeted by low-altitude night drones.

LA Lapagaille Veteran ·2026-03-29

Hello, This is a fairly short trip. You also have the option (by bus) to travel from Berlin to Kaliningrad (+/- 10,000 rubles). E-visa accepted. To prevent your GSM with a European SIM card from being blocked, you need to disable the 4G or 5G network connection and only use GSM over Wi-Fi when a Wi-Fi network is available. The same applies in reverse if you have a Russian SIM card. Using and setting up a proxy or VPN for the Telegram app must be done before entering Russian territory—afterward, it’s more complicated... VPN and proxy server connections aren’t possible. I had indeed heard and seen the route taken by drones coming from Ukraine via Poland and the Baltic countries. It seems a drone (from Russia) hit a factory chimney in Estonia or Latvia. Funny how Article 5 of NATO isn’t operational... on the part of Poland and the Baltics. Replying to messages on this site is complicated when using a VPN—you often get blocked, unfortunately. Best regards, Patrick

Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé

Esantirulo Veteran ·2026-03-29

To prevent your GSM with a European SIM card from being blocked, you need to turn off the 4G or 5G network connection and use only GSM over Wi-Fi when a Wi-Fi network is available. The same applies in reverse if you have a Russian SIM card.

You seem to be mixing up internet via mobile network and internet via Wi-Fi :)

- Internet via Wi-Fi is wireless through your phone’s antenna, without needing a mobile operator or SIM card. It works in all cases as long as you have access to a wireless network.

- Internet via a mobile operator works through the SIM card, in 4G mode (3G is only possible for text-based internet, but for several years now, SIM cards have been 4G, and the latest ones are 4G/5G). This is the mode that gets blocked, along with SMS text functions, by Russian mobile operators during the first 24 hours after a foreign SIM card connects to the Russian network.

Example: Take the bus from Gdańsk with your phone and a non-Russian SIM card, always on. After Mamonovo, the SIM card connects to one of the Russian mobile operators (Megafon, MTS, Beeline), and you can no longer use SMS or 4G internet on that SIM card for 24 hours. However, when the bus arrives at the Kaliningrad bus station, in the Victoriya shopping center right across, you can use the same phone to access the internet via the shopping center’s free Wi-Fi network.

On a phone, this corresponds to the following: the icon with increasing bars represents the SIM card, while the one with waves represents Wi-Fi:

In the internet connection menu, accessed from the top-left corner, this corresponds to the following setup: Wi-Fi active and connected to a network "Altibox" in this case, but the SIM card (Megafon) inactive for internet:

Using and setting up a proxy or VPN for the Telegram app must be done before entering Russian territory; afterward, it’s more complicated... VPN and proxy server connections aren’t possible.

It’s possible for now. That’s exactly what I was doing last week. I was using VPNs installed while I was already in Murmansk.

Illustrations.

For Telegram, on the latest version (update if needed): go to the ChatVPN channel, sign up, and open the menu (type "/menu"), and the list of available services will appear:

Type "/tgproxy" and their list of proxies is provided:

Tap on one of the links, and the list of proxies is loaded into Telegram:

Go back to Telegram’s main page, open the settings menu by tapping the three dots in the top-right corner, and you’ll find a "Proxy" line at the bottom with the note "Connected":

When you tap on the "Proxy" line, the page with their list, connection speeds, and proxy selection appears:

I did a test by opening a Telegram channel banned in the EU, and the blocking message appeared, specifying that Germany bans this channel. In this case, Germany is where the proxy is located. My phone and I were in Norway, where the channel in question is allowed:

For general internet (not just in Telegram), the VPNs that currently work are those from small providers using a protocol called VLESS. You can find them on Telegram channels, like ChatVPN, LetoVPN, ZapretVPN, or D-VPN, etc:

These VPNs offer a short free trial period; otherwise, they’re paid, of course.

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-03-30

Hey Esantirulo, Thanks for your long reply—at least you took the time. First, a small note about what you said on crossing the border. Insulting a public official isn’t the same as criticizing a political regime. You can try insulting a customs officer—no matter the country, you’ll likely run into some trouble.

Now, the main point. It’s clear you feel freer in Russia than in Schengen—that’s your feeling, and I’m not contesting it. But going back to what I said at the start: why come back in that case? Make the decision that’s necessary—choose freedom. And don’t tell me it’s not possible. It’s not easy, sure, but it’s possible if you put in the effort. You’re not one of those people who criticize but do nothing just because the situation’s comfortable, right? 😉

LA Lapagaille Veteran ·2026-03-30

Hi, No, I’m not confusing mobile data with Wi-Fi internet.🙁 You’re talking about Mamonovo—when I reach that border, I deactivate my European SIM card, and after crossing into Russia, I activate my Russian SIM card (which could’ve been blocked for 24 hours in Russia if I’d used it in the EU). Then, when I’m home (in Russia), the phone with the EU SIM automatically connects to the house Wi-Fi (set up for that 😉). This avoids the 24-hour outages you mentioned. True, for 2 or 3 hours I’m without service on the EU SIM, which is less than the 24 hours you deal with, but I can still use my Russian phone. As for sanctioned networks on "Telegram," when I’m in the EU, I use GSM with my Russian SIM to access all EU-sanctioned sites—but only over Wi-Fi when it’s available. (It’s the European phone number that’s sanctioned; even with a VPN, you can’t open those sites. I’d recommend getting a virtual SIM from Burundi or Comoros to access sanctioned sites.) I’m not sending photos—I think you’re smart enough to have understood. For info, the "Telegram" app is currently blocked in Russia (temporarily?), so you’ll need a proxy, VPN, or VPS. Best, Patrick

Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé

Tiger3 Veteran ·2026-04-04

Hi everyone. Thanks for all the well-documented info about staying connected after the border. Sometimes, relearning how to do without isn’t so bad.

For the rest, it’s certainly easier to criticize the West as a resident than to speak freely in other parts of the world: spontaneous balcony jumps and drownings are more common there. As for the misused term "genocide," it’s more of a slogan than a reality.

Thanks again

http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts

PA Parigino Veteran ·2026-04-04

Hey, Just a quick question—did you manage to "escape the Schengen prison" for good, or are you heading back? Would be a first: an escapee who voluntarily returns to their cell.

🤣🤣🤣

Esantirulo Veteran ·2026-04-04

For the foreign SIM card, there’s only a 24-hour delay, but roaming charges can be steep. It might be possible to buy SIM cards for internet only (no calls or texts), like the ones that were popular a few years ago for 4G USB modems for laptops. Worth checking—I haven’t had the chance since I don’t need it.

I haven’t traveled by car since the Finnish border closed, and crossing points through Estonia, Latvia, or Lithuania can be really long. But when driving, having internet is super handy for real-time traffic updates, especially in big cities. Moscow, for example—driving without rerouting based on traffic is risky, as the jams can be epic. You’d have to cross the MKAD in the dead of night, around 3 AM. Yandex Navigator is unmatched for real-time route tracking to avoid bottlenecks. In summer, it’s also useful for estimating travel times based on roadwork. For that, you need 4G.

eSIM offers might evolve, so keep an eye out.

But if you’re not on the road, it’s easy to stay online thanks to the abundance of Wi-Fi in malls, restaurants, and cafés—just avoid old-school dives.

Email software isn’t affected. Some email providers block access if they detect a VPN, though, so you’d need to disable it in that case.

For stays longer than a week or if you’re planning future trips, it’s worth registering with the pension fund (social security number, the SNILS) in the first city where you spend a day, then getting the certificate and signing up on Gosuslugi. You can handle the paperwork at any MFC. Some MFCs have a streamlined process, making it much faster. Worst case, it takes 5 days between two MFC visits.

It’s certainly easier to criticize the West as a resident than to speak freely in other parts of the world

The term "West" doesn’t mean much outside of cultural philosophy and history, where it refers to "European civilization." Over the past two or three decades, it’s become shorthand in the mainstream press for "the U.S. and its vassals."

Things and events that are completely normal in one EU country can be criminalized by judicial arbitrariness in another. Fines, social bans, prison. SLAPP lawsuits are common in the UK, Germany, and then France against opponents of Euro-American policy toward Russia, critics of Israel, and, to varying degrees, critics of the EU. Some cases have been particularly horrific, like Assange’s.

By contrast, in Norway, the prime minister can be heckled during his annual speech to the point that he stops after ten minutes and leaves as the crowd chants, "Jonas, listen, children in Gaza are dying" (with the rhyme in *ør*), and nothing happens—because: freedom of speech. No arrests, no custody, no terrorism charges, etc.

https://www.tv2.no/nyheter/jonas-gahr-stores-tale-avbrutt-av-aktivister-dere-ma-vise-respekt/17694569/

Right now, the push for digital mass surveillance is leading to numerous legal proceedings. Digital banking is about monitoring and silencing people when necessary.

What’s happening to Jacques Baud is absurd. His bank accounts are frozen, his pension isn’t being paid, and he’s living thanks to friends and supporters. Yet he hasn’t been subject to a court ruling in a case where he could defend himself. It’s just a decree from the European Commission with no possibility of appeal because it’s extrajudicial. I don’t know if you realize how serious this is.

Generally, there’s no physical punishment, but in the case of the Yellow Vests protests, there was clear intimidation through targeted beatings, sniper fire, and manipulation by groups to derail demonstrations.

I’m not a resident in Russia, but I’m still registered in the social security system and administrative portal (without the associated rights since I’m neither a resident nor employed). I have SIM cards and a bank account. The restrictions on freedoms could be worse. The same thing for a non-EU foreigner who isn’t a resident in France is impossible, and in 2022, French banks froze the accounts of Russian residents simply because they were Russian.

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-04-05

Hi Esantirulo, Your love for Russia is undeniable and entirely respectable. I myself have an immoderate love for Iran, but I clearly distinguish between the country, its culture, and its history on one side, and its leaders on the other. You mention inconsistencies in the EU—no one disputes that. However, you don’t address my point: is it possible in Russia to openly criticize the regime, the government, the president—on TV, radio, in newspapers, online, or even in a café with strangers—without risking anything, as you do openly about the EU, Schengen, or NATO? I’m talking about criticizing a regime, not insulting a people, as you did in a previous message (I hope that was just a slip-up and not your true feelings).

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

Otherwise, all these practical aspects don’t exactly make me want to try the Russian adventure...

If your goal was to keep this destination under the radar, mission accomplished. 😄

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

Hi Agnès,

Otherwise, all these practical aspects don’t exactly make you want to try the Russian adventure...

If your goal was to keep this destination low-key, mission accomplished.

Don’t wait too long to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan—expect our world to split into two blocs where navigating between them will be tough, like in the 70s or 80s when visiting Romania felt like a moon landing.

What a difference from our Western democracies, where no one’s been arrested yet, for example, for criticizing governments on travel forums or other sites!

There are some very alarming signs in France and Europe—not necessarily about personal criticism of power, but about political, religious, or moral stances, or existential and cultural choices. Michel

PA Parigino Veteran ·2026-04-05

Don’t drag your feet going to Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan—expect our world to split into two blocs where navigating between them will be as tough as it was in the 70s or 80s, when visiting Romania felt like a moon landing.

We know, thanks. You’ve been hammering this home since Russia launched its attack on Ukraine, and so far, we’ve still been welcomed with open arms in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and even Tajikistan.

Esantirulo Veteran ·2026-04-05

All these practical aspects don’t exactly make you want to try the Russian adventure...

There’s nothing unusual about it. Before the EU existed, we crossed border checkpoints to go to Germany or Spain. In the summer, there were queues at Cerbère/Portbou with occasional customs checks. Currency exchanges. Well into the 90s, payment systems were heterogeneous—VISA cards were rarely accepted, for example, in Norway (cash or Bankaxept system), Germany, and the Netherlands (Eurocard or Mastercard). Visa requirements or e-visas are common in many countries.

Russia isn’t the only place where payment systems are separate from the US/EU-controlled one—it’s also the case in China, India, much of Africa, and partly in Brazil. Until recently, travel in Central Asia often required visas, special permits (for autonomous zones or enclaves), and cash-only payments.

The key is simply knowing what’s needed where.

For internet, China’s restrictions are far stricter. In the EU, there’s light blocking but much heavier monitoring and surveillance of connections and online speech. In France, you have to be *much* more careful about what you say and write online than in many other countries. And it’s even worse in Germany and the UK.

Note that the increased restrictions since 2022 on the Schengen-Russia border are due to the European Commission.

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

We know, thanks. You’ve been hammering this home since Russia launched its attack on Ukraine, and so far, we’ve still been very well received in Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and even Tajikistan.

For now. And it’s not just about being well received or not—it’s about proximity to a system. The idea that these three states, at this critical moment, would side with the US/Europe when their cultural, political, and economic ties to Russia and China are so obvious—just walking down the streets makes that clear—seems highly unlikely to me. Do you follow the news and current events in these countries? Are you interested in their economies?

Michel

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-04-05

So then: - Is it possible in Russia to openly criticize the regime, the government, the president—on TV, radio, in newspapers, on the internet, or even in a café with strangers—without risking anything, like you do openly about the EU, Schengen, or NATO? - Is it possible in Russia to freely create a political party that openly opposes presidential policies without any risks? - If Schengen is a prison and Russia is the embodiment of freedom, what’s stopping you from living there?

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

We don’t realize how lucky we are to live outside the iron grip of the Russian empire or theocracies like Iran.

Yes, but that’s just a figure of speech, and it’s super biased. Russia is huge—there are dozens of official and recognized languages (yes, really!). Not folklore, but real everyday languages that shape human experience and identity, whether people live in communities or not, far from some abstract universalism or Rousseau-esque ideal. There’s also a lot of religious diversity in Russia, practiced very openly and explicitly, from Tatarstan to Birobidzhan. Most Russians feel Russian or something else, and honestly, they don’t care much about not being able to criticize Moscow’s power at the café. They don’t give political squabbles the same weight we do by making them central to citizenship. Attila, she reads the subsidized French press and struggles—it’s a shame—to put things in perspective. For most people, the central government is what it is, but it’s distant, not intrusive in private or intimate life, and in that sense, it’s not seen as oppressive. It’s a bias—you’re projecting a state’s ideology onto the diversity of a federation of nations.

I also wonder why people who feel trapped in democracies stay there? Stockholm syndrome, or do they deep down know their lives would be a living hell in the dictatorships they defend? Enough complaining over nothing...

You’re funny. 🤪 Imagine you don’t share the values of the Republic in France. What are you? You didn’t choose anything, didn’t ask for anything—you just happened to be born in France to French parents, and you’re automatically disqualified from citizenship. You can’t express yourself in public without being blamed or attacked, and you can’t run for office. They won’t throw you in prison, but for your whole life, you’ll have to be a stranger to the state’s politics. So what should you do? Leave? But this is your home, your country. The political regime is one thing—it’s temporary. That’s why Jafar Panahi went back to Iran. He’s constantly at odds with the regime, but the country, the nation—that’s not the regime. In France, we reduce the nation to the state and the state to the Republic. That doesn’t help us understand things clearly, because identity is complex and can’t be dissolved into universalism or transcendent values. I’ll grant you it’s an old way of thinking, but it’s so ingrained in many people’s minds that stepping back is often impossible.

Michel

PA Parigino Veteran ·2026-04-05

So Jafar Panahi returned to Iran; he constantly opposes the regime, but the country, the nation, isn't the regime.

Hundreds of thousands of Iranians have left and never returned. They didn’t make some fantastic story about "yay, I escaped prison" just to meekly go back home. That’s the difference between the mediocre and the courageous.

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

like in the 70s or 80s, when visiting Romania was a moon landing adventure.

Meh.

I drove to Romania before democracy. Nothing too difficult except understanding there were two lines at the border. One for Westerners, quick and with few hassles. The other for Easterners, slow and nitpicky.

Back then, there were also border checks between France and Spain. It just took a bit longer with that little thrill of the unknown.

The real difference came afterward. A rush toward Westerners to buy what was missing there—basically everything... And a rush to talk to them, to have free conversations away from prying ears.

There are very alarming signs in this direction in France and Europe, not necessarily about personal criticism of power, but about political, religious, or moral positions, or about existential and cultural choices.

Some of you here seem to think the grass is greener elsewhere. Yet, despite your critiques, you don’t strike me as having been handed a one-way ticket to some Western gulag.

What a difference from Russia!

I wonder if the author of this post would dare to criticize Vladimir’s system on a Russian forum. Normally, yes—since everything’s rosy there. They risk nothing...

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

In France, you have to be much more careful about what you say and write online

More than in Russia?

After that, you’re kinda right since one of my messages disappeared...

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

Most Russians feel Russian or something else, and honestly, they don’t care about not being able to criticize Moscow’s power at the café,

Not so great for Russian opposition...

Move along, nothing to see here.

And what should you do? Leave?

It seems logical to leave a place where you don’t feel good.

That’s what tons of people around the world do.

French people leave too, but usually not for political or religious reasons.

For the taste of adventure, economic reasons, or just being fed up with French complainers...

They even end up choosing dictatorships as their new home. Not because they support the regime’s ideology, but for the sunshine, to escape taxes, or a much more appealing cost of living. They come back when the wind changes or when health fails.

Still, they don’t pick overly oppressive dictatorships: North Korea doesn’t attract many, nor does Afghanistan.

On the other hand, the flow of political refugees between dictatorships and the West is significant. Reading some comments here, I wonder why?

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

Very nice for Russian opponents... Move along, there's nothing to see.

It’s not about being nice or not; there are opponents, activists, people involved in politics, generally from a certain urban, intellectual background. But are they representative? Actually, no. Western and French media highlight those who resemble them socially and sociologically.

It seems logical to leave a place where you don’t feel good.

Yes, I know you believe that; it’s not about "not feeling good," but about being in your own country and treated like a foreigner, intellectually and civically.

On the other hand, the flow of political refugees between dictatorships and the West is significant. Reading some here, I wonder why?

To make money and return home, not to flee a dictatorship as such. I looked into emigration from Iran: it’s higher than from France, but not by huge margins—maybe 50% more—and it’s mostly educated and intellectual people. A brain drain, not an exodus.

Michel

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

not to flee a dictatorship as such.

So OFPRA is useless and all asylum applications should be rejected since they're economic?

You’re gonna be real popular with some far-right parties.

I’ll leave you to your dubious theories.

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

So the OFPRA is useless and all asylum applications should be rejected because they're economic?

I never wrote that, but there’s a kind of narcissistic satisfaction in the French ideology of believing it’s envied and prized for its values, which borders on denial.

You’re going to make yourself very popular with some far-right political parties.

I don’t care. Is it hazy just because it’s not what the mainstream media feeds you?

Michel

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

I never wrote that

Oh really?

To make money and return home, not to flee a dictatorship as such.

You forget very quickly what you write.

It’s shady because you’re denying the suffering of millions of people who fled the country where they were born because they weren’t free there. (As a woman, as a sexual or religious minority, as an atheist, as a political opponent, as a cultural dissident, etc.)

In the case of Russia, fleeing also comes from not wanting to return home in a coffin after being forcibly enlisted in a "special operation."

I don’t know if I’ll ever travel to Russia. I missed the boat at the start of Putin’s reign. In the end, it’s worse today for an average traveler than in Soviet times. Much more uncertain.

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Mathews Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

You’re funny. Let’s say you don’t share the values of the Republic in France; what are you then? You didn’t choose anything, didn’t ask for anything;

You’ll have to excuse me, but I’ve never understood what your problem is. Is it living in France? If so, you should do like the Americans who sue over anything—you could take your parents to court for not being born in Russia. That’d make you happy for sure 😉 As for democracy in France and freedom of expression, nothing’s stopping you from speaking Breton in Brittany or Basque in the Basque Country. Even better, you could publish a regional daily in the local language.

LA Lapagaille Veteran ·2026-04-05

Hello South, Central, or North American, or possibly Canadian? Just to clarify what you're saying! Why always relate everything to France? You’re not the center of the world. Best regards, Patrick

Un concerné n'est pas obligatoirement un imbécile encerclé

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

As for democracy in France and freedom of expression, nothing prevents you from expressing yourself in Breton in Brittany or in Basque in the Basque Country. Even better, you should publish a regional daily in the local language.

I don’t fully understand your message—it’s rather confusing. I’d like to point out that all of my grandparents were forced, legally and especially socially, to stop passing on their language, their imagination, and their culture. In Russia or Iran, that would never have happened.

My problem? Right now, it seems to me that it’s more and more—and especially... yours.

Michel

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

It’s sketchy because you’re dismissing the suffering of millions who fled the country they were born in because they weren’t free there. (As a woman, as a sexual or religious minority, as an atheist, as a political or cultural dissident, etc.)

I’m not dismissing anything, but the reason you’re citing isn’t the majority one—it’s sensationalized and feeds into a national narrative.

I don’t know if I’ll ever travel to Russia. I missed the boat at the start of Putin’s reign. In the end, it’s worse today for an average traveler than in Soviet times. Much more uncertain.

Back in Soviet times, there was already strong pressure not to go; you’ll see with Kazakhstan if you like it or not.

Michel

Mathews Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

I don’t fully understand your message—it’s rather confusing;

Uh, my message is as clear as it gets. What’s confusing about it? I clearly wrote that you can express yourself in any language you want in France—isn’t that clear enough? As long as you make yourself understood, of course. And my point applies to living in Canada, Belgium, or anywhere else.

Right now, it seems to me that it’s more and more, and especially... yours.

Now *that* I don’t get at all—what’s the meaning of your sentence? If anyone’s confused, it’s you 😉 I don’t have any problems. I love traveling and sharing that joy with other members of this forum.

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

uh, my message is as clear as it gets. What’s confusing about it? I did write that you can speak any language you want in France—isn’t that clear enough?

It hasn’t always been this way. Even naming your children was often a problem and subject to many restrictions. I don’t think you really know what I’m talking about or what this is about. No big deal.

Michel

Mathews Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

Even naming one’s children was often a problem and subject to many prohibitions. I think you don’t really know what this is about or what I’m talking about.

Well yeah, it’s obvious because you’re talking about your personal life. And your personal life isn’t any of my business. How about sharing a nice travel journal about Russia instead of whining about your situation 😎 Show us photos of Orthodox churches, steppes landscapes... instead. I’d love to know what the Volga Delta looks like...

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

Well yeah, it's obvious because you're bringing up your personal life. And your personal life is none of my business.

Not my personal life—it’s the lives of millions of people deprived of their culture, heritage, and imagination by an ideology. I’m not keeping a "travel journal"; tourism doesn’t interest me.

Michel

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-05

tourism doesn’t interest me.

Strange for the main poster on a travel forum.

But we’re well past that now.

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Esantirulo Veteran ·2026-04-05

Thanks for this well-documented info on our communication options after the border. Sometimes, relearning to do without isn’t so bad.

I’ll give some concrete examples to demystify the fact that foreign SIM cards do work, and roaming charges aren’t any different from those in many non-EU/EEA countries. The only major difference is that these fees were much lower before 2022.

My domestic SIM is necessary if I need to make an online purchase with my VISA card, since the bank’s 3D Secure process requires online verification linked to my domestic SIM number. For example, buying a flight ticket for my return once I know which border point I’ll be re-entering Schengen from. But you might also need to log into your online banking to pay an overdue bill or for any other urgent reason.

Here’s the SMS I received after unlocking my domestic SIM, with the prices. It’s in Norwegian kroner, 1 NOK ≈ 0.9 €:

Details of the SMS: sent by my mobile operator on 19.3.2026 at 05:38 (when I turned on the phone with this SIM) and received on 20.3.2026 at 06:19, so well after 24 hours. (Phone was on the whole time):

In last month’s bill, usage for Russia is almost zero since I didn’t need to use this SIM, but it’s there:

If I had to rely on this SIM for my entire stay, I could buy a plan at these prices. 5GB of data included:

You can see that in the operator’s pricing grid, this falls under their Zone 1. It’s the same rate/zone as, for example, Canada:

Japan is in Zone 2, much more expensive, for the same price plan but with only 1GB instead of 5GB:

For comparison with trendy destinations, here are the rates for Kyrgyzstan and Uzbekistan, which are billed by usage with no plans:

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-04-06

Hey Esantirulo, Here’s some detailed info that’ll help anyone planning to visit Russia. I’ve heard—this was late 2024—that Russian SIM cards worked in the EU, which would make sense for roaming, a reciprocal arrangement between operators. Can you confirm this? Honestly, you’re way more credible as a tech advisor than as a critic of the EU or Schengen Space 😉

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-06

Strange for the main poster on a travel forum.

I’m heading to Japan next week, to two or three ports on the Sea of Japan side, and I can assure you I won’t be doing any touristy outings: no "sites," no museums, no temples. Just traveling.

Michel

LE Lescs Regular ·2026-04-06

Just traveling Michel

For your pleasure?

CS

www.lescs.fr

CH Chalembert Regular ·2026-04-06

Very nice for Russian opponents... Move along, there's nothing to see.

It's not about being nice or not; there are opponents, activists, people involved in politics, generally from a certain background—urban, intellectual. But are they representative? Actually, no.

Hey Tatra, so do these opponents have a prominent presence, can they freely share their ideas in the press, on TV, etc.? Can they freely say that the Russian government is doing whatever (right or wrong, that's not the issue)? Can they also create political parties openly opposed to the current power? Regardless of the audience—maybe it’d be ridiculous—my question is: is it possible?

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-06

For your pleasure?

Yes, just out of curiosity.

Michel

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-06

Hey Tatra, so these opponents have a public presence and can freely spread their ideas in the press, on TV, etc.? Can they freely say that the Russian government is messing up (whether rightly or wrongly isn’t the issue)? Can they also create political parties openly opposed to the current power? Regardless of their audience—maybe it’d be tiny—my question is: is it even possible?

Thinking that quality of life and individual freedom are tied to how easy it is to engage in politics is a very French, idealistic notion—an intellectual’s perspective. But in France, if you believe that the values of the Republic come after your religious values, personal ethics, individualism over collectivism, or liberalism, you won’t face legal consequences—well, not yet, anyway. But if you’re a foreigner, people dream of deporting you, and if you’re French without having asked for it, you’re offered internal exile.

Michel

Tiger3 Veteran ·2026-04-06

Thanks a lot! This info is really like a SIM card tutorial—super helpful.

I’m heading back to beautiful Russia in July. Hope it hasn’t changed too much since I last saw it. And I’m always happy to return to the West. No part of the world is perfect; travelers observe but steer clear of politics.

http://www.lesroutesdailleurs.fr

https://plus.google.com/u/0/117367592382272882283/posts

Attila Globetrotter ·2026-04-06

I forgot this fundamental difference that’s been shaking this forum since its inception: the basic tourist vs. The Traveler. 😇

But we’re really getting off topic here...

Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !

Tatra Globetrotter ·2026-04-06

Good evening Agnès,

No need to be ironic. When I go to Japan, like next week, I couldn’t care less about museums, I don’t visit any natural sites, I’m not interested in onsens, and I only pass by temples by chance. That’s just how it is. I love business hotels, izakayas, konbinis, kei cars, markets, vending machines, airports, and walking down the streets looking at signs and passersby. I’m not going to make travel journals out of that. You love natural parks, recognized and certified villages, tourist sites. We’re different, and I don’t really feel like a tourist. To be honest, I don’t care.

Michel

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Filoulinca 5 days ago · Perju

1 Month in Uzbekistan: Adjusting the Itinerary Due to Heat

Hi everyone,

We’re heading to Uzbekistan in three weeks for a month.

We still haven’t finalized our itinerary, and the extreme heat forecasted might really impact our plans. I’d love any advice on places where the heat might be a bit more bearable...

We’re arriving in Urgench and leaving from Tashkent. Generally, we only travel by bus, train, or group excursions—we don’t rent vehicles...

Originally, the plan was to visit Khiva, possibly head to Nukus for an excursion to the Aral Sea. I would’ve preferred a detour into Kazakhstan to Mangystau, but it seems either impossible or very complicated... Next, we’d head toward Tashkent, obviously stopping in Bukhara and Samarkand, with a possible stop in Nurata? Or maybe from Samarkand, a quick trip to Tajikistan in the mountains? From Tashkent, we could go to Chorvoq or the surrounding area, where it seems a little cooler, and do some hikes around Charvak Lake. I’m struggling to find solid info on Ugam-Chatkal National Park... What about the Ferghana Valley or Kokand, where the heat seems more intense? Then back to Tashkent.

If you’ve got any great tips, I’d really appreciate it!

Philippe

Open

Attila 2 weeks ago

Kyrgyzstan: Practical Information 2026

Recent information about this country is scarce, so I’m starting this post in addition to my travel journal to help fill the gap.

- Which airline from Europe?

Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.

The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.

- Bishkek Airport

The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.

Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)

There are taxis and a bus available.

- Entry Requirements

No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.

- Currency

The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...

You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.

The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.

Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.

Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.

- Paying

Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.

But it doesn’t always work.

So always carry cash with you!

If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.

- Cost of Living

It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...

On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!

Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).

In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).

The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.

- Getting Around

I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.

Personally, I chose to rent a car.

If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.

Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...

An international driver’s permit is required.

Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).

Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.

Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.

If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.

Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...

Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).

There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.

Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).

Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!

Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.

A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!

Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!

Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)

- Eating

I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.

I was both wrong and right.

Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...

Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.

Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.

Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.

If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.

On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!

And alcohol?

It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).

The deadly specialty?

White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.

- Accommodation

In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.

Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.

Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).

These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.

So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!

Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.

Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!

- Climate

I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.

I packed too many warm clothes...

If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.

A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.

It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.

Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.

In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)

- Communication

I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.

We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.

To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.

Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.

Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.

The police too...

- Religion

There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.

In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.

In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.

For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.

There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...

You can find the detailed account of the trip here.

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Stélène 2 weeks ago · Perju

Kazakhstan in August: climate, itinerary, and 4x4 questions

Hi everyone, My partner and I are planning a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August and would love your input to refine our itinerary. We’re thinking of spending the first part of the trip in the Almaty region, including the following spots:

Singing Barkhan (singing dune)

Altyn-Emel National Park

Charyn Canyon National Park

Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (Kensu River Valley lakes)

possibly Ile-Alatau National Park

After that, we’d like to explore the Mangystau region around Aktau, with highlights like:

Airakty

Tuzbair Salt Lake

Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")

Gora Bokty

Bozzhyra

Three Brothers Peaks

We’re planning to rent a 4x4 in each region and have a few questions:

Could you recommend any reliable 4x4 rental companies in both the Almaty and Aktau/Mangystau regions?

I’ve read that the Mangystau region can get extremely hot in August. Do you think it’s better to start with Almaty and finish with Aktau to hopefully have milder temperatures (less extreme😛)? For us, doing the reverse would be simpler in terms of international flights, the domestic flight, and it’d also be significantly cheaper.

Regarding the places listed above, do you think there are any must-see spots we should add, or conversely, any sites that aren’t worth the detour?

More generally, do you have any practical tips for a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August (road conditions, fuel availability, reservations, weather, safety, etc.)?

Thanks so much for your feedback and advice! P.S.: We’re used to traveling independently and driving 4x4s in sometimes challenging conditions (Namibia, Tanzania, Bolivia—South Lipez, Chile, etc.), and we’re also experienced hikers, used to self-sufficient treks (Patagonia, Huayhuash, Three Peaks in Nepal, among others). We’re just mentioning this to give you an idea of our level of self-sufficiency for this kind of trip.

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Justina 2 weeks ago

Backcountry Skiing in Uzbekistan - Trip Report

Hello! We headed to Uzbekistan at the end of February 2026. The main goal of the trip was to explore the mountains on skis, but of course, we did some backpacking along the way too!

For skiing, we checked out two spots: first, the Chimgan and Amirsoy region. The infrastructure is brand new (hotels, ski lifts, restaurants). We managed some great tours, especially in Amirsoy, where the gondola gave us a real boost and let us go even further.

Next, we moved on to Gilan, just a stone’s throw from the Tajik border. The scenery was completely different—wild and rugged. We stayed in a super cozy little guesthouse, learned how to make Plov, and ate like kings. Despite the unpredictable weather, we had amazing ski tours. The villagers got a kick out of seeing us walk around with our skis on our shoulders—it’s probably not something they see every day!

After our skiing buddies headed home, we explored Khiva, Moynaq, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent before flying back.

As usual, we didn’t plan anything in advance, and traveling off-season was definitely the way to go. There was plenty of space everywhere. We traveled by train (except for Moynaq). It’s super easy—you buy tickets through the app, and you don’t even need to print them.

I couldn’t figure out how to post the links to the three videos I made from this trip, but you can find my channel in my profile. Have a look around! ;-)

If you’ve got any questions, feel free to reach out—I’d be happy to answer as best as I can!

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Juliega 2 weeks ago · Papatte88

Review of my trip to Mongolia with guide Hacha

Hi everyone!

I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.

We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.

The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.

We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.

I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.

As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.

Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!

We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.

I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!

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Progshots 2 weeks ago · Filoulinca

Desert itinerary: Uzbekistan & Mangystau

Hi there, After a long absence, I’m back on this forum where I used to post under the username NealMorse (mostly about off-the-beaten-path spots in the American West...).

I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).

One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!

Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance

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Attila 2 weeks ago

3 weeks in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, preliminary travel questions

Hi there, 🙂

I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).

I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.

I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.

My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.

From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.

Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?

---/---

About crossing between the two countries:

- On foot - In a rental car

Quick? Easy?

---/---

Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)

---/---

Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?

A 4x4 or something else?

Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?

I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉

Thanks for your answers !

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Juquent42 2 weeks ago · Esantirulo

Trip from Samarkand to Bukhara

Hi there, I wanted to book a train between these two cities, but there’s no availability at the times I need. Could you tell me if it’s possible to find a taxi to connect these two cities, or book a shared taxi for the four of us? Thanks for your help

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Esantirulo 4 weeks ago

Currency searches by Estonians in Narva and fines

Estonians have become real pests at the Narva border control.

EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:

https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony

Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.

https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana

Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...

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Esantirulo 4 weeks ago · Incompletude

Single Russia-Belarus visa and new train routes

Since last year, the unification of the Russian visa with Belarus has been in effect. For reference, EU citizens haven’t needed a visa for Belarus for two years. However, it wasn’t possible to travel to Russia. Only Belarusian and Russian citizens could move freely within the union.

With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.

In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.

This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.

It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.

So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.

This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.

The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.

Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.

Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html

These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.

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Ichijooo 4 weeks ago · Marifb

Summer 2027 - Uzbekistan/Kyrgyzstan Family Trip (19 Nights)

Hello,

Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:

Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €

Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.

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Attila last month

Megacom SIM card, how does it work?

Hi there,

I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...

So I’m wondering how it all works?

You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏

But after that?

I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.

If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊

Thanks! 🙂

Open

Attila last month

What foods can I bring to Kyrgyzstan?

Hi there! 🙂

I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...

I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.

I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.

Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.

Are these foods allowed through customs?

Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?

I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?

Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)

Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)

Thanks!

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Voyagesamarc 2 months ago · Tiger3

Tajikistan Trip — French-Speaking Guide

I was lucky enough to spend two stays in Tajikistan between October and November 2025. I met Fayziddin, who’s a French-speaking guide and very knowledgeable—he really knows how to share his love for his country and his valley. He’ll welcome you to his village and, in the future, to a hostel that’s currently under construction. I can’t recommend him enough!

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Pyroxidine 2 months ago · Perju

3-week itinerary this summer in Uzbekistan

Hi there, We’re planning to explore Uzbekistan this summer (with the weather constraints that come with it). Our itinerary includes the three classic cities plus a few side trips here and there. We still have one week left that we’d like to dedicate to hiking. We were thinking of heading to Kyrgyzstan, but I’m open to other suggestions if we stay in Uzbekistan. Thanks!

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Tonivoyage 2 months ago · Cavadabor

Back from 4 weeks in Mongolia

Hi there, After making good use of the tips on this site, I’m now adding my own contribution. We’ve just returned from 25 days exploring Mongolia. A trip that took us from the capital to the Gobi Desert, from the ancient capital Karakhorum to the Orkhon Valley, and also off the beaten path to places close to nature and nomadic life, all thanks to our guide Hacha. I’m used to traveling as a couple or solo, in "backpacker" mode, and I rarely—or only occasionally—hire a guide. But this time, I have to admit that choosing a guide-interpreter and a driver was an excellent idea. We set off as a group of four to share the costs. I’d spoken with Hacha, a Mongolian who used to work at the French Alliance, speaks perfect French, and has been organizing trips for over 25 years. Needless to say, she knows her job inside out and has built strong relationships with nomadic families over the years. Since she only works with small groups, she can steer clear of the main tourist spots. With her help, we were able to personalize our itinerary—and even adjust it as we went along. For example, we’d planned to attend the Naadam festival in a small town, but we found out there was another festival two days later that wasn’t on the schedule. So we tweaked our route to catch both, and we didn’t regret it. Anyway, if you’d like more details or Hacha’s contact info, feel free to reach out.

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Patricevinc 3 months ago

Crossing the border between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan

Hi there,

I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;

Thanks!

Patrice

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Attila 3 months ago

Condition of the Djalalabad-Kazarman track

Hello,

New year, new questions...😛

Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?

I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...

Thanks 🙂

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Gusphinehort 3 months ago

Local agency in Uzbekistan

Hi, Does anyone know if the travel agency "NOUVINI" in Tashkent still exists??? Or do you have another agency to recommend??? Thanks in advance! Best regards, Jean Pierre

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FlatR31 3 months ago · Docanfr

Your tips for French-speaking local guides in Uzbekistan?

Hi there, We’re a group of 4 people who prefer to travel independently but also want to use local guides at different stages of our trip. My question is: should we plan to hire a different guide for each stage, or just one guide for all the different legs? We’re planning to travel between stages either by taxi or public transport (train, plane…). Our itinerary is pretty classic (3 weeks): Visit Tashkent Tashkent – Ferghana Valley (by train) Explore the valley and return to Tashkent with a guide and taxi Tashkent – Nukus (flight) Nukus – Khiva by taxi + guide for Khiva visit Khiva – Bukhara by taxi + guide for Bukhara visit Bukhara – Lake Aydar Kul – Samarkand by taxi + guide for Samarkand Samarkand – Tashkent (by train). Is the cost reasonable for the transfers between stages? Also, I’m open to any suggestions or tips (recommended guides, etc.). Thanks! Bernard

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Gene02 4 months ago · Tiger3

Korgaljyn (Kazakhstan): guided tour for bird photography

Hi there, I’d like to spend 2–3 days in the Korgaljyn area in May to photograph flamingos and other birds. I’ll be in Astana and I’m looking for a tour that includes accommodation so I can stay for 2 days. I’ve found the buses from Astana and info about the park’s facilities, but no accommodation or guided outings. Has anyone done this? Thanks for your help

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Dany53 4 months ago

Have you attended the Nadir Divan Beghi Madrasa show in Bukhara?

Hi, Did you attend the show at the Nadir Divan Begi Madrasa in Bukhara? What are the details for booking? Thanks in advance. Have a great day and happy travels! Danielle

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Malika222 4 months ago

Tips and info for a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan

Hi,

Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?

Thanks

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Bibouns51 5 months ago · Weric

What to do in Uzbekistan beyond the 3 museum cities?

Hi everyone, happy to be back on VF! I’ll be in Uzbekistan this coming April and will of course visit the three classics—Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. However, I’d also love to get out of these cities to explore the Uzbek countryside and experience its nature. Mountains, steppes, etc. Ideally, with some great hikes passing through villages. Any spots you’d recommend? Thanks in advance

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Romaguy 5 months ago

Bus or Taxi Transport from Tashkent to Fergana

Hi, We were wondering if anyone has recently experienced the Tashkent / Fergana Valley route by bus or taxi? We’re landing in Tashkent at 10:30 PM with our international flight. To head to Fergana the next day, the only trains available are very early in the morning or very late in the evening (arriving at 11:30 PM in Fergana). So, we’d like to avoid that mode of transport if possible to spend half a day in Tashkent and relax a bit. Thanks

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Canova 5 months ago · Esantirulo

Getting a taxi in Saint Petersburg

Hi there, We’re heading to Saint Petersburg from June 30 to July 7, 2026, and we’ll be arriving late (9 PM) at our hotel on June 30. Unfortunately, the hotel can’t pick us up from the train station. Is it easy to get a taxi at Saint Petersburg coach station? Thanks for your help!

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Romaguy 5 months ago

Day trip to the Sarmych-Sai petroglyphs

Hi, We’d like to know if it’s easy to visit the Sarmych-Sai gorges from Bukhara as a day trip. Do homestays and hotels offer this? Thanks

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Andma 6 months ago · Jahoniy10000

Need information on planning a trip to Uzbekistan

Hello, We’re a senior couple planning to spend around 3 weeks in Uzbekistan, either starting at the end of March or mid-April. We’ll begin in Khiva (Urgench) and finish in Tashkent (via Termez). We prefer traveling independently as much as possible, at our own pace, and are considering hiring drivers for specific legs of our journey. Here’s our rough itinerary: 4 nights in Khiva 4 in Bukhara 5 or 6 in Samarkand (we’d like to do a day trip to the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan) 2 in Termez Then Tashkent and the Fergana Valley 2 in Tashkent Does this seem balanced? Any suggestions? We’re not planning to go as far as the Aral Sea or stay in a yurt camp. Is the weather favorable at the end of March (risk of rain)? Or would mid-April be better? What’s the typical cost for a driver’s services? Thank you in advance for any tips that could help us with our plans. Andrea

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Copinard 8 months ago · Jeeaan

Paying a photo tax in Uzbekistan

Hi, I just read the various discussions about the photo tax that’s being asked for in Uzbekistan, but that info is from 2016/2017. I’m leaving next week for Tashkent/Samarkand/Bukhara/Khiva, and I’ve been told a 50 USD tax is required for photos. I really get the feeling this is a "forced sale" and an exorbitant amount. Have any of you paid this tax recently? Thanks

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Practical aspects spring 2026: border to Murmansk, to Pskov, SIM cards, internet.

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