Scenic routes around Ouarzazate and southern Morocco
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Translated into English.

Original post
FA
Hi there,

We’re heading to Ouarzazate and southern Morocco in 7 days. Here’s our route (map). We’re a family of 2 adults and 3 kids (11, 9, and 5 years old). Could you let me know if there are even more scenic roads to take, and any must-see spots, please? 😉

Day 1: Ouarzazate – Skoura – Dadès Day 2: Dadès + Todra Day 3: Tinegir – Djbel Saghro – N'Kob Day 4: Tazzarine – M'Hamid (overnight in Erg Lihoudi) Day 5: M'Hamid – Draa Valley – Agdz Day 6: Agdz – Fint – Ben Haddou Day 7: Telouet – Ouarzazate
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
Hi there Great choice! Do you have a rental car? Have a great trip. Francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Hey, Makes sense. And not too many other options if you want paved roads...

Still, on your route between Dadès and Todgha, I see you’ll double back to take the main highway, which isn’t the prettiest stretch of the N10 between Boulmane and Tinghir... I suggest you loop north via Agoudal instead. Not much dirt road left since they’re paving it... but what’s still there is super easy with any car... and it’ll be way prettier. You’ll take the upper Dadès route... You’ve got the Akhiam site along the way... Even though the new dam at the exit of the Todgha Gorge ruins the spot, the route is still much nicer than the N10....
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JD Jdufourd ·
Hi, I’ve got a question about the connection between the Dadès and the Todra—is it a good idea to take the road (or rather the track that’s currently being paved, if I understood correctly) just north of M’semrir that runs from west to east toward Tamtattouchte?

For someone who doesn’t have time to go up to Agoudal, instead of taking the N10.

Thanks for your input,
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Hi there,

Not great...

What do you mean by "no time"? Within an hour?

The road through the pass and Agoudal is smooth and way prettier... If you're local, sure, it's better, but for a first trip, I really recommend the Agoudal route... The landscapes are on another level...

Anyway, in Morocco, it's risky to plan things down to the quarter-hour, even on paved roads—let alone in the mountains...

Just in case, you take the road after M'smerir, near a big recent factory. But again, there's no comparison between the two options...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JD Jdufourd ·
Hi, It works, thanks for the feedback! This is actually my first trip to the area, and I’m currently putting together the itinerary. I thought the time difference would be more noticeable than that.

The original plan was to visit the Dades Gorges first, then find a scenic route to the entrance of the Todra Gorges, where we’d spend the night, with the idea of exploring Todra the next morning. We’ll be coming from Skoura.

If we take the loop via Agoudal, do you have any recommendations for a spot where we could stop for the night?

Alternatively, do you think it’s feasible to do both the Dades and Todra Gorges in the same day with this Agoudal loop, or would that be too rushed and therefore not recommended? I’m not sure what to expect...

My last question: Is there a preferred direction for driving through both gorges, or does it not really matter?

Thanks so much! !
FA Fangui Veteran ·
Hi there,

I’ve already done the Valley of the Roses – Dades – Todgha route via Agoudal in one day. Visited the Todgha Gorge the next morning before the tourist rush. You *can* sleep in Agoudal, but I don’t really see the point. With just a Dacia Logan
fangui

http://fanaumaroc.canalblog.com/
JD Jdufourd ·
Hi there, thanks! Did you sleep north of the Todra Gorge when coming from Agoudal?
FA Fangui Veteran ·
Before the Gorges, there are several hostels in Tamtatouchte.

But I usually stay at Kasbah Amazir just past the gorges—it’s a really great spot!
fangui

http://fanaumaroc.canalblog.com/
JD Jdufourd ·
Got it. Is it feasible to do the same day for Dades + Todra via Agoudal, or is that too ambitious / too rushed? Since I’ve heard it’s best to visit the Todra Gorge early in the morning, I might consider doing the loop in the order Todra > Agoudal > Dades... Thanks,
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Both directions are lovely, but personally, I slightly prefer starting with the Todgha... Make sure to take a little break here (1-hour round-trip walk).

https://maps.app.goo.gl/oCebCnAduNKjzH2o7

I see on Google that the tourist trap has already started with a snack shack... hard to believe this place was almost unknown just a few years ago... Take advantage and go see the beautiful arch. Bring a flashlight if you want to explore the cave—you can easily check out two chambers. That said, with all the rain we’ve had, it’s probably not possible now. I managed to go pretty far three years ago, but I was solo, and looking back, it wasn’t the smartest idea. At times, you have to crawl on your stomach with your back scraping the ceiling—it’s that narrow. There are some stunning chambers beyond the first siphon, but I don’t think it’s passable right now.

For lodging... Phew, I don’t even know where to start, lol. There are so many options!

From the luxurious and gourmet Chez Pierre (since it was taken over by Moroccan brothers, I love this place, but it’s super booked and pretty pricey—though I adore this hostel, even if it’s a bit flashy) to ultra-family-run kasbahs with no frills but delicious home-cooked meals (the beds are average, but it’s a very local spot—only the father speaks French well, and he knows the region like the back of his hand. You really get to share in the family’s daily life). Between these two extremes, I’ve got at least 50 addresses to share, so... ^^ Personally, if I had to choose, I’d stay on the Dadès side if you’re starting with Todgha. I don’t know your budget or comfort expectations... (the upper Dadès is largely ignored by tourists, who all flock to the lower Dadès before the famous hairpin turns. Even in Agoudal, there’s Ibrahim’s place—veteran travelers might remember it from back in the day. It’s not the same anymore, but it’s still a decent stop. For me, what I love about Agoudal is winter—all the older men lounging against the wall, soaking up the sun in the center... ^^)

Don’t forget to make a little stop for tea or a snack (you can even sleep here):

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ckq5VkDmzNEo4dAa9 The owner is welcoming, and the little break is nice now that the construction equipment is gone (thanks to the new pavement).

A few spots like this for epic views:

* At the Tirherhouzine Pass (2,709 m), Park here and head up to the right. The view over the valley is insane—just watch the drop!

https://maps.app.goo.gl/eS2SdGpWPEpBcBJr8

* A little-known hike:

Starting after the Todgha Gorge: https://maps.app.goo.gl/mSQstjLC3ZzTRbUu5

You can see the trail clearly on Google, but it gets less obvious higher up—it’s a climb. When you reach a pass, a trail branches off to the right (6–8 hours to reach the Dadès). To the left, less marked, you’ll end up right above the gorges—absolutely stunning panorama. Watch out for falls and rockfalls... For those staying at the foot of the gorges, you can do a day-long loop on foot: cross the gorges, hike up, and descend on the other side to return to the village of Ait Tizgui (Tizgui means "waterfall").

Ugh, I’ll stop now or I’ll end up writing another novel... By the way, there’s a track in the upper Dadès near Tilmi that connects to the Cathedral, and even Bouzmou toward Imilchil...

Quick fuel tip: In the upper Dadès, you can find diesel in Tilmi here:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/a9mAQNc5YXbBQ2ta6 (local delivery ^^)

Check out the M’smerir souk: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7Lm18Xpa9kwg6m79A (with an authentic 1934 Satam truck!)
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
JD Jdufourd ·
Awesome, thanks so much for your feedback! Just reading this makes me want to go. 😇 Our budget is around 50 or 60 € max per night for two. Comfort-wise, we’re happy with anything—from the most comfortable to the most basic—as long as there’s authenticity and great moments that make it all worthwhile :)

Not sure if this is the right place for this, but here’s our 10-day itinerary so far (we’d have loved more time to take it slower, but this trip, we don’t have a choice..):

1) Marrakech 2) Pick up the Logan; head toward Tizi n’Tichka pass via Telouet; overnight near Skoura 3) Skoura; Valley of the Roses (as far as Bou Tharar); then overnight at the start of the Dades Gorges 4) Dades Gorges, loop to Tamtetoucht via Agoudal. Overnight near Tamtetoucht. 5) Todgha Gorges; then Tinghir and its palm grove. Road to Nkob via Tizi n’Tazazert pass; overnight near Nkob or in the Draa Valley (?) 6) Draa Valley to Zagora + overnight 7) Draa Valley to M’Hamid, depart late afternoon for 2 nights in the Erg Chegaga desert (we’re looking for a "nomadic" bivouac, not a permanent camp) 8) Desert + overnight 9) Return to M’Hamid, overnight on the road in the Draa Valley (near Tamnougalt or Agdz) 10) Return to Marrakech

If you’ve got any comments or tips—no matter how big or small—I’m all ears! :) Especially stops or detours worth taking, a great spot, a little walk or visit along the way… Or even if the whole route needs tweaking 😄 Basically, I’ll take anything!

Thanks again
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Hey,

So, day 1 in the city and day 2, we grab the rental...

Skoura (this is just my personal opinion) still has its old reputation, but this palm grove, which had charm some time ago, has nothing to do with the past anymore... I say this because I see in almost all travelers' itineraries that they discover Skoura as if it were THE star of the country... It's wildly overrated and isn't even close to being the most beautiful palm grove in Morocco... I wouldn't even rank it in the top 5... The palm grove is sick and scraggly, not to mention that for a good ten years, it's been the trend for Europeans to come and set up hostels... Soon, there'll be more hostels than palm trees...🤪 Maybe it's also the fault of some travel journals where most people here don’t venture off the beaten path. (Sorry for being so frank.) That said, you can still find some nice stops there... Personally, I only like Skoura in the winter when the peaks are snow-covered.

I can’t remember what time of year you're leaving, but the first week of May is the Rose Festival, so it’s hard to find accommodation... A full day for the Rose Valley seems long compared to the other days... You’ll see that it goes by faster than expected, and like Skoura, the Rose Valley isn’t exactly... rose-colored... It’s very easy to drive through the valley and barely see a rose, except on shops selling products made with Chinese roses... (1 - it’s much cheaper to import made-in-China than to produce locally, 2 - the drought no longer allows for sufficient production)...

Bou Tharar, a quiet little village... Are you doubling back or taking the dirt track?

Just in case:

Start at Bou Tharar: https://maps.app.goo.gl/uz566t7tMpJexCdK6 Remember to turn left in the center—turning right takes you up to a stunning viewpoint over the valley and the M'Goun range, but that’s for 4x4s or daredevils like me... 1h30 on foot.

You’ll arrive at Ait Youl: https://maps.app.goo.gl/XS5MDFr3wxXG2P1N9 There’s another variant a bit further north via Tisguine, which is much nicer, but there’s a river crossing here to do, and I don’t know if you’re comfortable driving a Logan on dirt tracks (just so you know, insurance doesn’t cover off-road driving). The rest is a classic route... I might’ve pushed to sleep higher up in the Dadès Valley rather than at the start, especially if you’re staying in Skoura. I recommend this unique kasbah: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2AFGeCr7rzwBmFca7 Brahim is a truly great guy and super attentive... A family man like you’d want to see more of in Morocco... Contact him on WhatsApp by voice: +212 699 208 268... Tell him you’re coming from Zitouny (olive in Arabic), and he’ll take good care of you... I especially recommend him for those who might want a guide—he knows the region like the back of his hand... I’m leaving the info here for you or others, no pressure... In the Dadès Valley, there are tons of great choices... But also tons of flops... For the past 2 or 3 years, it’s been a disaster—soulless, flashy hostels and hotels with tacky names are popping up one after another...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
FA Fangui Veteran ·
Hi Olivier

Totally agree with you about Skoura. It’s a palm grove like any other, except that it’s very large.

It’s always presented as a must-see, along with a hostel that’s no better or worse than many others!

There are trends in tourism, especially since social media—like the famous Agafay Desert.

I do recommend visiting the Amridil Kasbah, though. It’s really pretty and gives a great idea of what life is like in that kind of dwelling.
fangui

http://fanaumaroc.canalblog.com/
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
Hey there! Totally agree with you, dear Zitouni! Never got the hype about Skoura! I also tried spending a night at that famous hostel... never again. Last year when I passed through, a lot of the palm trees had burned—it wasn’t great. Hopefully, the autumn rains helped the landscape turn green again. I came back after a month... it’s not the same feeling as before. It’s still really beautiful, but my old friends, the *chibanis*, have passed away or are as old as I am now! The bivouacs with young people, the quad bikes... not to mention the "Agafay Desert"—that’s not for me anymore. I spend my winters in my place... in Senegal. Greetings to all in Morocco. Francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
JD Jdufourd ·
Thanks for all the feedback! We’re leaving in late May/early June.

We’re planning to stop in Skoura mainly because it’s on the way—it’s a "convenient" stop coming from Marrakech—but the palm grove visit wasn’t a must for us. We’ll skip it. On our loop, is there another palm grove that’s more worth it? The one in Tinghir, maybe?

About the track to Bou Tharar that leads east to Ait Youl—is it manageable in a Logan? Because I’m not sure how well I’d handle a Logan on dirt roads either 😅 But it sounds great—I’m guessing it’s way nicer than doing the round trip and taking the N10.

I get that it’d be better to sleep in the Upper Dades, but that’d mean visiting the gorges on day 3 after leaving Skoura. I don’t want us to feel like we’re "rushing" if we do the Amridil kasbah, the Rose Valley, *and* Bou Tharar first… Wouldn’t that be a bit much to add the gorges in the afternoon/late afternoon? Since we want to take little photo breaks—or even short walks if the scenery calls for it— Thanks for the tip, by the way!

I’ve got a few more questions:

- I saw there’s a salt mine in "Agoulzi" north of Ait Hani. Is it worth a look?

- Any recommendations for the Draa Valley? (Good stops, places to stay, scenic detours…)

- Same for N’kob—is it worth stopping for a night on the way down from Tizi n’Tazazert, or should we push on to the Draa Valley? (Since we’ll already be spending two nights there later…)

Thanks so much! Have a great weekend, everyone
LA Lagardevicto Veteran ·
Back in December 2013 or January 2024, I drove up the Dadès Valley all the way to Agoudal for the first time. I had no idea the last few kilometers before the pass were so narrow—basically one lane. I was unlucky enough to meet two vehicles, and each time it was really, really tricky. How’s it now?
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
FA Fangui Veteran ·
Hello

Since you're passing through Telouet and the Ounila Valley, there’s also a salt mine at the beginning.

Dades Valley: I recommend Isabel Hostel—very simple and family-run, with 3 rooms. It’s inexpensive, the food is good, the rooms are spotless, and there’s a large terrace facing the Monkey Fingers.

Nkob: Kasbah Ennakb on the main street is beautiful and has excellent food. Next door, don’t miss visiting the cobbler to buy some nice sandals. The main street is nothing special, but behind the hotel, you can access the old village, known for its many well-preserved kasbahs—though they’re not open for visits.

Draa Valley: The ksar of Tamnougalt is worth the detour (films have been shot there), and you can stay overnight.

Further down the valley, Kasbah Ait Othman is an authentic and stunning kasbah turned into a hostel.

A hostel in Tamgroute. The area is known for its distinctive green pottery, a covered old village, and a library of ancient manuscripts—though you can easily skip that.

Happy planning!
fangui

http://fanaumaroc.canalblog.com/
JD Jdufourd ·
Thanks so much for your message! 🙂
GR Groschats Veteran ·
Tinghir, yes—the palm grove is way nicer than Skoura...

About the shortcut through Bou Tharar... "Tranquille" is a random word in Morocco—tracks depend on the weather. One day it’s an easy drive, the next it’s impassable... But locals use this route regularly, and there’s no real difficulty. A Logan can handle it without any problem... That said, I’ve seen people in France blow a tire just parking at a supermarket curb, so... you can wreck your car anywhere. Technically, it’s a green-level track...^^ The only real challenge would be managing to get lost and take the wrong path lol

As for the salt mine, it’s not a big deal... First, the guy has to be there. These are often very basic operations, like the one in the Ounila Valley Fangui mentioned. You go into a dark cave and that’s it... Not worth the time if you’ve got a tight schedule.

On top of Fangui’s tips for Nkob, I’ll add that the tarmac is great between the pass and Nkob, and it’s also a nice spot to sleep up there...

There are two places—it’s a matter of vibe, but I prefer Tirza. Basic but clean and cheap.

Here Yassine, the son, replies on WhatsApp at +212 671 063 687...

Without staying overnight, a stop is nice for the view on the way down to see the Affezar canyon. Position yourself here: Viewpoint

The hostel just above also offers a stunning view of the Saghro and the Igly cirque, called the Camel...

Not to mention, at the bottom of the pass, there’s a really worthwhile walk to Bab N’Ali... The hike starts here Don’t hesitate to park all the way to the easy turnaround spot. The monolith is the landmark... You can climb to the base without difficulty—just watch out for loose gravel underfoot on the slope, but it’s not dangerous. At the base, you’ll see a small geological curiosity if you look closely—I won’t spoil it ^^... The hostels on-site aren’t great... Both the welcome and the service leave a lot to be desired.

The Draa Valley is long, *really* long Fangui shared some great tips... When you’re coming from Nkob, you’ve got two route options—one to the left of the Draa and one to the right. The right-hand one going down is the main road; the other is less of a hassle. If you want, you can go down one way and come back the other to Zagora... For lighting, it’s much better to go down in the afternoon and come back up in the morning. The palm grove is struggling, and you won’t see much that’s appealing around midday when the light is so harsh. Anyway, you’ll be in this area at a rough time of year—late May, early June in M’Hamid. Personally, I’m not a fan... Last year, I had 46-47°C in mid-May at Chegaga. This part of your trip won’t be the highlight. The landscapes will be flattened by the heat and dust, and panoramic photos are tough to pull off.

Watch out when you get to Zagora—you’ll very likely run into some "friends"... In the Draa, I have a rule: I politely tell anyone in blue who bothers me about the Tuaregs to get lost. Quick reminder: Tuaregs in Morocco? THEY DON’T EXIST (anymore), and not a single person you meet is from that ethnic group—not even their father or great-grandfather. It annoys me how they sell nonsense instead of talking about their own culture... (they know as much about themselves as they do about the Tuaregs, to be honest). Anyway... Be careful, and even more so when you get to M’Hamid—you’ll be a walking target for kilometers ^^ But no real danger... Just don’t be naive.

After Tamegroute, you can also do a loop—go one way and come back the other starting from here

Don’t forget cold water and stay hydrated... You’ll need it. No need to stock up too much—it heats up fast, and on the tarmac, you’ll often find shops and cafés...
Qui écoute trop la météo, passe sa vie au bistrot !
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
Hey Minou! You always have such great tips! In ZAGORA, I found a really nice little hostel called "La Petite Casbah"—it’s cheap and has a lovely small pool that’s perfect for the intense heat! I won’t talk about the "Blue Men"—I married one 25 years ago. 😄 Wishing everyone a wonderful stay. Francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
I always stop at the little kasbah whenever I pass through Zagora. The hostel is really nice, Brahim is super friendly, and the meals are always delicious. The TV room is a hit with soccer fans...
JD Jdufourd ·
Awesome, thanks so much for all these detailed tips, really! 🙂 Can’t wait to be there and wander around…
SO Songhai73 Globetrotter ·
I stop at the little kasbah every time I pass through Zagora. The hostel is really nice, Brahim is super friendly, and the meals are always great. The TV room is a hit with soccer fans...

Hey, you can spot the regulars here ;) Not me for the soccer! I stayed there for 3 nights in October. Maybe we crossed paths!
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion! Khalil Gibran
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
We weren’t there in October this year....
AJ Ajft25 ·
Is the track to Bou Tharar that leads east to Ait Youl manageable in a Logan?

No, it’s never really been "manageable" and right now it’s completely impassable. I gave up trying to take it in a 4x4 last week. The rains washed out the track, and I seriously doubt it’s been repaired.

Alternative: North of Aït Youl, a road heads toward Ighil n'Oumgoun and lets you reach Bou Taghrar. More details here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10707248#10707248
AJ Ajft25 ·
I’ve got a question about the connection between the Dadès and the Todra—is it a good idea to take the road (or rather the track that’s currently being paved, if I understood correctly) just north of M’semrir that runs from west to east toward Tamtattouchte?

As of 2025, the entire route is paved. It’s fast. And it’s a real environmental disaster. https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10707454#10707454

Groschats is right: Go via Agoudal.
JD Jdufourd ·
Alternative: North of Aït Youl, a road leads to Ighil n'Oumgoun and allows you to reach Bou Taghrar. We talk about it here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=10707248#10707248

Thanks for your message—it’s really nice of you to update the info. For the alternative mentioned above, is the paved section on the Aït Youl side or the Tisguine n'Aït M'Rao side? Do you think the unpaved part is doable in a Logan? Thanks in advance,
AJ Ajft25 ·
For the alternative mentioned above, is the paved section on the Aït Youl side or the Tisguine n'Aït M'Rao side?

Aït Youl side. At the junction, a few kilometers north of Aït Youl, no signposts, but it's obvious; the road is paved.

Do you think the unpaved section is doable in a Logan?

Yes. It's short and ready to be paved.

I don’t think the new road goes through Tisguine, but through Ighil n'Oumgoun where you can pick up route 317 to Bou Taghrar.
JD Jdufourd ·
Thanks! However, we’ll be traveling it from west to east (from Bou Taghrar to Aït Youl). So we’ll need to go all the way to Ighil n'Oumgoun via Alemdoun, right? From Ighil n'Oumgoun, is the turn-off easy to spot?
AJ Ajft25 ·
Thanks. However, we’ll be traveling it from west to east (from Bou Taghrar to Aït Youl).

In that case, ask in Bou Taghrar if the connection to Aït Youl has been restored (I doubt it...), even for a Logan. The route is stunning.

So we’ll need to go all the way to Ighil n'Oumgoun via Alemdoun, right? From Ighil n'Oumgoun, is the turnoff easy to spot?

Yes. It’s the track (improved) that turns into tarmac. Or just ask for "Dadss?" in the village.
JD Jdufourd ·
Got it, thanks for the info! 😊
IB IBsiglo Regular ·
Hi Fangui, More than five years ago, I took the Mesmrir - Agoudal route and it was terribly rocky. I don’t know if it’s still like that or if it’s been paved now? Thanks! 🙂
J'ai tous les instants mais je n'ai pas le temps.
IB IBsiglo Regular ·
Hi there, I’m planning almost the same route as you. The drive to Telouet is stunning. But why spend the night at Erg Lihoudi—why didn’t you head to Erg Chguaga instead? Thanks
J'ai tous les instants mais je n'ai pas le temps.

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