Dans le cadre d'un voyage d'un mois en Patagonie argentine et chilienne, j'aimerais parcourir le plus possible la partie chilienne qui est assez restreinte finalement. Et non pas faire uniquement de petites incursion au Chili.
Au début je m'étais dit que je n'irai pas plus au nord que le Fitz Roy. Mais en regardant de plus en plus la carte, je me dis que ce serait quand même pas mal de fouler les fjords chiliens, donc de monter jusqu'au village Bajo Caracoles en Argentine et ensuite de prendre plein ouest la piste 41 en direction du Chili et de Cochrane, pour ensuite descendre jusqu'à Tortel puis O'Higgins.
Seulement voilà, cela en vaut-il la peine ?
Vu la distance et surtout le temps nécessaire : google m'indique 230km et...7h30 de route sur la seule portion Cochrane-O'Higgins !!!
Donc le double car il faut prendre en compte le retour, O'Higgins étant un "cul de sac" !
Sans compter qu'il y a un ferry payant (combien ?) à mi parcours. Et je doute que les liaisons soient quotidiennes en décembre (même si le village de O'Higgins doit être ravitaillé pour ses habitants).
Certains d'entre-vous ont-ils déjà fait cette partie de la Carretera Austral ?
Si oui, quelles sont les éventuelles randos à faire dans cette région qui semble être vraiment coupée du monde !
Merci pour vos conseils et avis.
PS : je serai véhiculé d'un 4x4 avec une cellule aménagée.
Les voyages sont la partie frivole de la vie des gens sérieux, et la partie sérieuse des gens frivoles (Anne-Sophie Swetchine)
Juste pour votre information car on n'en parle malheureusement pas beaucoup dans les journaux franchophones, les environs de Cochrane (et plusieurs autres endroits du sud du Chili) sont touchés par de graves feux de forêt qui se chiffrent en milliers d'hectares brûlés.
Merci Thierry pour cette information.
Je vais regarder ça.
Cependant, j'espère qu'en décembre, période à laquelle je serais en Patagonie (mais que je n'avais pas précisé dans mon message 😉), les feux de forêt actuels seront terminés !
Les voyages sont la partie frivole de la vie des gens sérieux, et la partie sérieuse des gens frivoles (Anne-Sophie Swetchine)
Villa O Higgins n'est pas un cul de sac. La plupart des voyageurs a Villa O Higgins font la traversee marche + bateau de/vers El Chalten.
J'aime bien aussi Caleta Tortel.
Villa O Higgins n'est pas un cul de sac. La plupart des voyageurs a Villa O Higgins font la traversee marche + bateau de/vers El Chalten.
J'aime bien aussi Caleta Tortel.
Pour moi c'est un cul de sac quand on est véhiculé.
Maintenant, si on peut faire la traversée en bateau et mettre un véhicule dessus, ça change la donne et change aussi ma vision des choses 😉
Donc, est-il possible de faire la traversée avec un véhicule ? Et si oui, quel en est le tarif ? 🤪
Les voyages sont la partie frivole de la vie des gens sérieux, et la partie sérieuse des gens frivoles (Anne-Sophie Swetchine)
Bonjour Sylvain.
Pour avoir suivi la carretera australe début décembre dernier, je pense que toutes les
portions sont intéressantes à faire. Les distances sont effectivement importantes :
- Cochrane - Tortel : 126 kms
- Cochrane - ferry Puerto Yungay : 123 kms
- 169 kms si vous allez à Tortel et revenez vers le ferry.
- 100 kms de la rampe de Rio Bravo à Villa O'Higgins.
Il "faut" aller au bout de la route, soit encore 7 kms après Villa O'Higgins.
A savoir qu'il y a une station Copec à Villa O'Higgins.
Le ferry est GRATUIT car géré par l'armée chilienne. Premier arrivé, premier servi.
Les horaires en été : PY - RB : 10h - 12h - 16h - 18h
RB - PY : 11h - 13h - 17h - 19h
Il y en a moins en hiver et il peut être arrêté pour mauvaise météo.
Au minimum il faut compter 1 jour pour faire Cochrane - Villa O'Higgins, 1 jour pour
revenir, plus 1 jour sur place si vous le souhaitez. Minimum 1/2 journée à Tortel.
Rajoutez à cela 1 jour si vous venez d'Argentine par Chile Chico jusqu'à Cochrane.
Savoir aussi qu'à part des portions entre Chile Chico et le carrefour de la Carretera
australe, tout le reste n'est que du ripio.
J'ai eu la chance de faire toute la route sous le soleil, mais c'est rare. J'ai tout de même
mangé beaucoup de poussière. Cordialement, Bernard
Merci bcp pour ces informations très intéressantes et très utiles !
Le fait que le ferry soit gratuit est une très bonne chose...et surtout il y a plusieurs rotations par jours en été, décembre inclus (même s'il peut être arrêté pour cause de mauvaise météo).
Ce que je redoutais le plus c'est d'être bloqué 1 ou 2 jours (voire plus) au retour de O'higgins pour faire la traversée RB-PY. Ce qui ne devrais pas être le cas si je cible la 1ere traversée du matin à 11h. Car au pire les traversées de 13h et 17h sont annulées pour mauvaise météo, et il restera celle de 19h.
Dans tous les cas, j'ai bien conscience que c'est un trajet long en temps (5 jours mini A/R). Il faut donc que ça en vaille la peine en terme de paysages et de randos.
Autre question : as-tu fais des randos ? Si oui, lesquelles sont intéressantes ?
Merci
Les voyages sont la partie frivole de la vie des gens sérieux, et la partie sérieuse des gens frivoles (Anne-Sophie Swetchine)
Bonjour Sylvain.
Au retour de Villa O'Higgins pour prendre le ferry de 11h je conseille d'y être au moins
1h avant par sécurité car il peut y avoir un bus local ou, et, des petits bus touristiques
avec remorque, j'ai pu constater qu'ils ont la priorité. Comptez 2h - 2h15 de Villa O'Higgins
au ferry.
Le ferry arrive à 10h45, charge et repart à 11h. Le temps de navigation est de 45''.
Pour ce qui est des paysages je les ai trouvé superbes, c'est sauvage et c'est un peu
le bout du monde. Il est vrai que j'ai eu une magnifique météo.
Je ne suis pas un grand randonneur, d'autres seront mieux à même de te renseigner.
Salutations, Bernard.
Je suis nouvelle sur ce forum et je viens vous demander votre aide car après avoir écumé internet (et le forum également), j'ai du mal à me faire un idée...…
Jusqu'hier la route Carretera Austral était coupée suite a la coulée de boue survenue le 16 décembre 2017 juste en arrivant au village de Santa Lucia, qui fait…
Tout est dans le titre! La carretera austral en juillet août en 4x4 qu'en est il? Nous n'avons pas le choix de la période puisque je suis tributaire des congés…
J’envisage de parcourir la Carretera Austral en 15 jours ou 3 semaines en novembre-décembre. Je pense louer une voiture à Puerto Montt. J’aimerais avoir des…
Une très bonne année à tous, pleines de voyages surtout! Je suis d'habitude lecteur assidu de tous les CR de vos voyages à tous. Ce qui me donne pas mal…
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Russia and Mongolia, starting from France.
Crossing the border at Poland/Belarus or Georgia/Russia—other borders seem either closed or complicated.
Tourist visas for 3 months with multiple entries.
Do you have any info on Russian companies that cover a 4x4 vehicle for 3 months, and what prices in rubles or euros you’ve paid?
Which bank did you use for expenses? (EuroMastercard and Visa cards no longer work.)
Regarding Russian SIM cards, a new system called "Gosuslugi" has been introduced. How long did it take you to get one, and what steps did you follow?
Hi,
we’re planning to visit a park again.
Could you point us toward the camps in Gonarezhou Park?
>We’re traveling completely self-sufficiently.
We love wildlife.
Thanks for any tips you can share!
JP
Hi there, we’ll be in Mozambique in early December 2026 and we’d like to travel from Vilanculos to Beira by car or bus to reach Beira airport. After that, we’re planning to visit Gorongosa National Park before flying back to France from Beira. From what we’ve heard, the road to Beira is tricky, especially at this time of year (start of the rainy season). Could anyone share their thoughts or suggest a solution? Thanks so much for your help!
Anne
Hi there,
I’m heading to Lesotho in a few days and I’m struggling to find info on the best route between Katse Dam and Sehlathebe National Park. There’s a fairly "direct" route from Thaba Tseka, but the roads seem rough, and we’re not exactly 4x4 pros. Anyone have any tips to share? Thanks!
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Mozambique in October and are looking for either a 4x4 or 4x2 rental in Maputo, or a driver transfer option to reach:
- Ponta Do Ouro
- Tofo
- Vilankulos
The idea is to be self-sufficient for sightseeing and stops while still being able to access certain lodges or beaches that require a 4x2.
Do you have any contacts, addresses, or ideas to share?
Thanks in advance,
Hello,
We're hitting the road again in 2027 to discover new countries and cultures.
Could anyone give me some tips on driving from Ulaanbaatar to Lake Baikal and the route to take?
Thanks, and safe travels to those who are setting off!
We’re planning a 4x4 trip from Belgium to Central Asia, passing through Georgia, Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan.
For these countries, our national insurance obviously doesn’t cover the vehicle, so we’ll need to get local insurance.
Will it be a problem if the vehicle is registered under person A and the national insurance is under person B? Both A and B will be in the vehicle, and both will be listed as drivers on the insurance.
When we get the local insurance, if we again list A and B as drivers, does the order matter? Could we get stuck at the border for this reason?
Hi,
For those who’ve driven on Iceland’s gravel roads in their own or a rented Duster, could you tell me what tires were fitted on the vehicle?
Were they All Terrain tires or more "standard" ones like all-season tires, for example?
Follow-up question: if they were "standard" tires, did that cause any issues on the gravel roads and rough terrain?
Thanks so much for any info you can share.
Best,
Marc
Hi there,
I'm planning a 4x4 road trip from Darwin to Broome with a rooftop tent in July 2026.
I'd like to know if I need to book overnight stops in advance or if I can just wing it and stop wherever I feel like it?
Some evenings, we'd like to stop and make use of campsite facilities (restaurant, shop, showers, toilets).
What do you recommend?
Do I need a permit?
My rough itinerary looks like this:
Darwin - Kakadu
Kakadu - Nitmiluk
Nitmiluk - Kununurra
Kununurra - Purnululu
Purnululu - El Questro
El Questro - Mt Elizabeth - Bell Gorge - Broome
I’m planning a trip to Iceland for next July-August, with a car and tent, and I’m wondering about booking campsites.
From your experience, is it necessary or even essential to book campsites in advance, or do you always manage to find a spot to pitch your tent?
We’ll also have the option to sleep in the car without pitching the tent.
Does that give us the flexibility to stay outside a campsite for a night here and there?
Hi,
I’m planning a road trip in the Middle Atlas, starting and ending in Fez and heading down to the south of Midelt, the Assoul Massif.... We’ll be traveling with two small 4x4s.
I’m looking for detailed maps of this region that include small roads and tracks.
Last year, we had a fantastic road trip in the Anti-Atlas and High Atlas using Erfahren maps, but unfortunately, they don’t cover the area we’re interested in this year.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Dominique
We’re planning a 13-day family road trip in Morocco this July, with six people in a Toyota Prado 4x4 (renting in Marrakech).
We’ll alternate between bivouacking and small hotels/riads depending on the stops.
Here’s the planned route (in this order):
Marrakech
→ Ouarzazate
→ Draa Valley
→ Zagora
→ Erg Chegaga
→ Lake Iriki
→ Foum Zguid
→ Tata
→ Tafraoute
→ Aït Mansour
→ Tiznit
→ Mirleft
→ Taroudant
→ Back to Marrakech
Our goal:
Atlas Mountains + desert + dunes + plateaus + valleys + a bit of coastline.
We’ll cover about 1,700 km in total.
We’re planning:
Bivouacking in the Chegaga/Iriki area
Flexible for the rest (booking the day before or same day)
Sand gear: traction plates, compressor, tow strap, roof rack
Questions:
Is the Zagora → Chegaga → Iriki → Foum Zguid crossing in July doable on our own (single vehicle, no guide)?
Are there any truly technical or risky sections between Chegaga and Iriki?
Does the overall itinerary seem manageable in 13 days without rushing?
Any suggestions for great bivouac spots or particularly interesting stops along this route?
The points on the route are provisional overnight stops. Some spots will include two nights in the same area.
We’re used to off-road driving, but not yet in the Moroccan desert.
Thanks in advance for your feedback and tips! 😊
Good evening
I could use some advice 🙂
Our trip to Namibia is planned for June/July 2026.
We’re struggling a bit with timing and choosing activities for the part of the trip between Sesriem and Brandberg.
Day 1: Sesriem to Mirabib
Day 2: Mirabib to Swakopmund – visit Swakopmund, overnight in Swakopmund
Day 3: Sandwich Harbour – overnight in Swakopmund
Day 4: Kayaking with the seals + the living dunes – overnight in Swakopmund
Day 5: Moon Landscape, Henties Bay + Cape Cross – overnight at White Lady Lodge in Brandberg
Does this itinerary seem realistic to you? Is Cape Cross really worth the trip? If I had to choose between Cape Cross and kayaking with the seals, which would you recommend?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Hélix
My son and I are heading to Georgia this summer to explore the High Caucasus (Svaneti, Kazbek, and Tusheti regions). For this, we’re planning to rent a 4x4.
However, the rental agencies we’ve found prohibit driving on the tracks to Omalo (Tusheti) and/or Ushguli (Svaneti).
Do you know of any agencies in Tbilisi (local and reliable) that allow rented 4x4s to drive on these tracks? If so, which ones?
Hi everyone,
I’m starting to plan an itinerary for September 2027 focused on Zimbabwe and Zambia. I’d love to visit Gonarezhou National Park—I see there are two sectors: the Mwenezi Region in the south and the area around the Runde River in the north. Should I cover both sectors or just focus on the northern region?
For the parks along the Zambezi River, is it better to visit Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side or Lower Zambezi on the Zambia side?
Thanks in advance for any tips on the parks in these two countries.
Have a great day, everyone.
We’re spending 18 days in New Zealand from 05/04 to 05/21, arriving in QUEENSTOWN and leaving from AUCKLAND.
Any ideas for a road trip that covers the highlights of both islands but only changes hotels every 3–4 nights?
Thanks.
For our trip to Georgia in July, I’d like to rent a 4x4 starting from Tbilisi.
Do you have any rental companies to recommend?
The traditional rentals like Hertz, Avis, etc. seem way overpriced compared to local companies—what do you think? Are they properly insured?
Has anyone here tried Geo Rent Car, Auto 4 Rental, or Sur Price?
Also, I’m looking for info on the condition of the Ushguli–Lentekhi track—is it passable?
Hi everyone,
A well-prepped 4x4, a travel plan across Africa in stages since I’ve got kids to see regularly and work to earn a living.
I’m leaving in November for about a month with the goal of reaching Senegal via Mauritania. I’d love to share this trip with someone who wants to discover Mauritania and a bit of Senegal... and also experience life on board a 4x4 in the desert or bush, sometimes sleeping in the vehicle or in hostels/small hotels for comfort. I want to share this rediscovery because two’s better than one!
Just traveling, exploring, and living! !
I’m planning to explore Argentine and Chilean Patagonia for a month in December 2019.
I’m looking for a rental company (or several) that offers single-cab 4x4 pick-ups with a fitted camper cell for two people. I’m specifically after a vehicle with an indoor shower for extra comfort ;)
So, no vans—at least not from the rental companies I’ve seen so far.
While browsing the forum, I came across the Chilean rental company Holiday Rent. But do you have any recommendations for Argentine rentals?
Because, if I can’t return the vehicle in the same city as pickup, I’d prefer—and it’d likely be cheaper—to at least return it in the same country.
I’m traveling through Argentina and Chile (as well as Paraguay and Uruguay) with a 2019 Toyota Hilux Euro 6. Could anyone tell me if the local diesel is suitable for its engine, or if I need to take any special precautions (like adding an additive, for example) for these countries?
I’d also like to know if driving at high altitudes is possible, and up to what elevation—or if I should worry about the vehicle going into limp mode?
If that happens, what should I do?
Hi there,
Can you tell me if the road between Zagora and M'Gouna is easy or difficult for a 4x4? How much time and how many kilometers should I plan for? I’m traveling in May.
Thanks!
Hi there,
My trip to South Africa is starting to take shape.
However, I'm struggling to figure out the route through Kruger Park. I can't seem to find the information I need about getting around.
Coming from the south, I plan to arrive on Day 1 in the early afternoon at Malelane or Crocodile Bridge.
Do some shopping in Malelane (or Crocodile Bridge main area) and stay overnight outside the park.
Leave on Day 2 at 5 AM for the park. Explore the southern part of the park.
Stay overnight around Skukuza or Lower Sabie. (We don’t want to stay in one of the park’s big camps. We’re looking for a lodge around 200 €.
Head out on Day 3 for a self-drive safari, maybe as far as Orpen.
We’d like to stay in a private reserve on nights 4 and 5.
We’re not sure which one or how to get into a private reserve. Do we need to exit Kruger Park?
On Day 5, we’d like to leave to visit Blyde Canyon (on Day 6).
I’m planning to leave Morocco for the summer but want to leave my 4x4 there to avoid exceeding the famous 6-month limit. I’d like to park it in one of the two Spanish enclaves (Ceuta or Melilla).
Does anyone know of people or companies that handle long-term parking (preferably secure) in either place?
Once the car is parked, what’s the best way to get back to France using public transport?
Is the nearest airport Tanger from Ceuta?...
How do I get there easily, etc. etc.
hello! I’d like to go to Kazakhstan and rent a fitted 4x4 locally so I can drive off-road trails and sleep inside the vehicle... could anyone share some local rental company addresses, please? Thanks! !
I'm about to rent a self-drive 4x4 in Mongolia. Has anyone heard of GOBI.RENT?
Otherwise, do you have any tips for checking this company since there's no info on their website (e.g., registration number on the RCS)?
I’m finalizing my trip starting from Namibia.
When I arrive in Divundu, I’d like to head straight to the Khwai area early in the morning to one of the campsites in the Khwai Development Trust. Is the drive doable with a good 4x4 in a day?
We’ll spend 2 nights in Khwai, then 2 or maybe 3 nights in the Moremi area (Third Bridge/Xakanaxa/Mboma) before heading back to Maun to wrap up our journey.
Is that too much time to spend in each place?
We’d also like to do one or two boat excursions in the delta. Any suggestions for the best options and operators?
Thanks in advance for your tips and advice!
Best,
Patrick
Hi everyone,
I’m planning to explore the western part of Madagascar from May 1st to 5th, specifically to visit the Tsingy. I’ve heard different versions about the road conditions and access to the Tsingy during this time, so I’d love to hear from people who’ve actually made this trip during this time of year.
Have you traveled from Morondava → Tsingy between May 1st and 5th?
Was the journey doable and safe?
Did you have access to the Grands Tsingy, or just the Petits Tsingy?
Thanks so much for your feedback—it’ll really help me get a clearer picture! 😊
Also, if you have any recommendations for reliable and experienced driver-guides, I’d love to hear them.
Thanks again!
