J'aimerai cette année changer de région du monde, envisageant ainsi un circuit allant de la Tanzanie à Madagascar.
Cependant, étant en ce moment en long trips avec des connexions internet svnt désastreuses (ne serait ce que pour charger google map), je cafouillle un peu dans l'élaboration de ce circuit. Par habitude, voyageant sans rien réserver d'avance, et parfois sans circuit prédéterminé, l'Afrique de l'est me semblant un peu moins ''easy'' que l'Asie (je peux me tromper), je viens donc vers vous pour avoir quelques informations récentes.
1) Mon budget par jour et pour 2 personnes, n'excède pas 55 euros, maxi 60 euros pas jour, tout compris. D'emblée, la Tanzanie, Malawi et Mozambique sont ils envisageable, en sachant que j'exclut déjà les safaris dans ces pays (trop couteux et déjà fait) ?
TANZANIE 24 jours :
2) La ville frontière entre la Tanzanie et le Malawi est-elle Mbeya ou proche?
3) Si oui, faut il privilégier le train ou le bus pour s'y rendre depuis Dar es Salaam)?
4) Quelle est le cout et la durée du trajet?
5) Y a t'il une étape (autre qu'une réserve) à conseiller sur ce trajet ?
MALAWI 18 jours :
6) 18 jours sont ils suffisant pour réaliser sans trop courir un circuit partant du nord jusqu'a la frontière avec le Mozambique (vers Cuemba), en passant par l'ile de Likoma, et restant 5 jours a Lilongwe pour faire le visa mozambicain.
7) Quelles étapes conseillez vous sur ce trajet?
8) Y a t'il des guest housses petits budget, aux environs de 25-30€ ?
MOZAMBIQUE 30 jours :
9) Qu'elle est la ville frontalière entre le Malawi et le Mozambique me permettant de prendre le train Cuemba - Nampula?
10) J'ai lu que les trajet sont longs et pénibles dans ce pays, 30 jours de Cuemba à Maputo est ce envisageable sans trop courir ?
11) Qu'elles étapes pour petit budget conseillez vous entre Cuemba et Maputo? (ilha et vilanculos me semble inévitable non?)
Pour infos, j'aime beaucoup ''l'eau'', disons la mer, lac, rivière, cascade, et les beaux paysages montagneux. Je ne recherche ni bars ni ambiance nocturne, et voyageant lentement, passer 1 semaine voir plus dans une guest house au bord de l'un de ces éléments ne me pose aucun problème.
Désolé pour l'effet ''pavé'' , 11 questions ca fait beaucoup, je sais, mais si certain connaisseurs ont une partie des réponses ca m'aidera déjà beaucoup.
Merci d'avance, et bon voyage aux futures voyageurs ou ceux qui sont sur les routes.
Je peut réponse pour la question 3 sur la Tanzanie.
Il existe une compagnie de bus Scandinavia Express qui relie les principales villes du pays. En 2009 j'ai effectué avec eux la distance Arusha (dans le nord) Dar es Salaam pour 24.000tsh (environ 13€). Il a fallu un peu moins de 10h pour faire les 650km. Ils ont leur site http://www.scandinaviagroup.com/ ou vous pouvez avoir toutes les informations.
Merci beaucoup votre retour qui si cette société fonctionne encore (tarif datant de 2005) apporte du coup une réponse à mes questions sur la ville frontière avec le Malawi, Kyela, et comment y aller.
Moi aussi j'ai le Malawi sous le coude pour sans doute cet été. Donc je suis les actualités de prés et les rares infos de VF aussi!!!
Il y a eu de graves inondations en janvier au Malawi et dans le nord du Mozambique(voir l'article Monde du 15 /1) et j'avais lu qu'une partie de la ligne ferroviaire entre le Mozambique et le Malawi en passant par Cuamba avait été emportée par les eaux...Le pb actuel est" est ce que cela a été réparé"?
En potassant le guide Bradt du Malawi je sais qu'il y a une foule d'hébergements pas chers en particulier le long du lac Malawi...bien sur pas testés...et que pour le Mozambique c'est beaucoup plus chers et plus rares
Voilà ma coopération à la préparation de ton voyage
Cordialement
Carassou
Bonjour Françoise, et merci pour le retour d'info car je n'étais pas au courant pour la ligne ferroviaire vers le Mozambique, alors si d'autres ont des infos concernant la faisabilité du trajet entre le Malawi et Nampula, par le train ou autre, je suis preneur.
Vous comptez arriver et repartir directement du Malawi ou depuis un pays frontalier ?
Rien n'est encore réservé ...je me contenterai du Malawi et sans doute un safari de 4 jours dans un des parcs nationaux de la Zambie jouxtant le Malawi...cela sur 45 jours environ pour ne pas courir .. mon âge m'impose des limites dans mes visites même si l'esprit est encore jeune en transports en commun
Je regarderais les possibilités d'avion sans doute en multidestination :Aller Lilongwe et retour Blantyre ou Lusaka avec la KLM
Le Mozambique ne m'intéresserait qu'au nord car les transports ont l'air épuisants vues les longueurs et surtout les départs aux aurores et l'hébergements bien chers quand on est habitué à ceux des pays asiatiques
Pas de visite en Tanzanie , j'y suis allée il y 25 ans et je veux voir d'autres paysages et d'autres habitants
Bien sûr je lis avec attention tous les forums du coin Malawi, Zambie et même Mozambique et cela ne pullule pas
Cordialement
Françoise
Nous avons parcouru le Kenya et la Tanzanie pendant 2 mois et demi au début de notre tour du monde avec un budget de 22€/jour pour 2 et n'avons rencontré aucun problème à tenir ce budget.
Le couchsurfing est assez facile (même s'il faut bien observer les profils) et il existe de nombreuses guesthouses locales, basiques mais tout à fait convenables, où ne vont jamais les étrangers (mais qui sont parfaitement accessible, ce n'est pas comme en Birmanie par exemple où ils ont besoin d'une licence spéciale pour accueillir les étrangers). Il faut bien insister quand tu demandes où se trouvent les guesthouses sur le fait que tu n'as pas besoin d'un hôtel à touristes. Généralement, nous disions que nous cherchions une chambre avec ventilateur, que nous n'avions pas besoin de TV et que nous avions un budget de maximum 10$. Sinon, ils nous indiquaient d'office des hôtels d'un meilleur standing. Généralement, ces guesthouses nous revenaient à 5$-10$ la nuit pour 2.
En Tanzanie, dans le Nord, nous avons beaucoup aimé Lushoto (dans les montagnes), Tanga et Pangani (sur la côte).
en effet ça fait pas mal de questions d'un seul coup....je vais tenter de t'apporter quelques éclairages tout en sachant que les situations évoluent assez vite dans cette région d'Afrique.
Mon premier séjour en Tanzanie date de 2010, le second (bref passage au nord en provenance du Burundi) date de 2012.
Séjour au Malawi et Mozambique en Oct et Nov 2012.
Donc concernant les tarifs, je n'ai en référence que ceux pratiqués il y a de cela 2 ans.
1) Budget: 50 à 60 Euros pour deux, c'est confortable ( très confortable même pour la Tanzanie et le Malawi), l'argent que vous épargnerez dans ces deux pays vous permettra d'être plus souple au Mozambique qui est effectivement plus cher, surtout en matière de transport.
2)Mbeya:
Mbeya est une ville carrefour sur la route du sud-Est tanzanien mais la frontière du Malawi est encore bien éloignée...Je n'ai pas passé la frontière de la Tanzanie au malawi car j'ai pris l'option de la Zambie par le lac Tanganyika.
Il est probable que les bus circulent de Mbeya à Karonga (Malawi) via Tukuyu...j'ignore l’état de la route (ou de la piste)...si c'est une piste, à la saison des pluies c'est probale que les bus ne s'aventurent pas.
Le train:
Tout dépend si le train fonctionne…en 2010 j’ai pris la fameuse ligne Tazara qui relie Dar à Luzaka (Zambie) et j’ai circulé de Dar à Makombako. Ce voyage en train est un bon moment, une mini aventure de train Africain, très rare dans la région.
Le soucis, c’est la totale irrégularité des circulations et à ma connaissance il n’y a pas de programmation à long terme, il faut donc se renseigner sur place…Quand ça marche, il peut y avoir 2 départs par semaine…privilégier le départ de Dar en matinée (quand c’est possible) pour profiter de la traversée de la réserve du Sélous ( girafes, buffles, gazelles…). Au petit matin on arrive à Makombako…
Il est préférable de prendre un compartiment couchette, en principe les femmes et les hommes sont séparés durant le trajet de nuit, mais il reste possible de louer un compartiment entier pour rester ensemble…je n’ai plus en mémoire le tarif, mais ça reste très raisonnable et ça rentre dans ton budget puisque tu économises une nuit de guesthouse…
La compagnie Tazara a subi bien des problèmes sur cette ligne construite par les Chinois dans les années 70, fermeture et réouverture du système d’exploitation à nombreuses reprises…C’est dommage car le trajet vaut vraiment le coup…Ne pas hésiter à faire cette expérience si la ligne est ouverte !
Tu peux pousser effectivement jusqu’à M’Beya et tenter un bus vers le Malawi ou si tu as le temps rejoindre en bus Sumbawanga via Tunduma en une journée (trajet assez pénible). A partir de Sumbawanga on peut descendre sur le Tanganyka en ralliant le petit port de Kasanga, c’est un peu l’aventure car les bus ( à l’époque où j’y étais) n’y vont pas, il faut donc trouver une voiture ou un camion qui fait le trajet…il est possible que maintenant la piste soit asphaltée ( à vérifier)
A Kasanga, possibilité de monter à bord du ferry MV Liemba qui fait le trajet Nord Sud et vice versa depuis le port de Kigoma (Nord Tanzanie) à Mpulungu Zambie.
3)18 jours au Malawi.... te donnera un aperçu du pays…l’ile de Likoma, c’était une destination que je devais faire, malheureusement le ferry MV Ilala était en maintenance (Nov 2012) pour plusieurs mois et on a pas trouvé de moyen pour s’y rendre. La côte du lac malawi regorge d’endroits sympas où il fait bon se reposer (Nkota kota, Monkey bay, Nkata bay, Cape Mac clear….)
4) Visa Mozambique:
Passer 5 jours à Lilongwe pour obtenir le visa, c’est à mon sens un calcul qui mérite réflexion…il n’y a pas grand chose à faire dans cette ville…
alors évidemment sans visa pour passer la frontière du Moz, les douaniers t’attendent au passage…ça a été notre cas et il a fallu négocier : en 2012 le passage frontière avec achat de visa sur place valait 75 US ( 25 de plus qu’en Ambassade), et ils nous en demandait 100 par personne…on n’a pas calé, nous sommes restés fermes en refusant d’acquitter l’arnaque, et en arguant que le montant du visa figurant sur le sticker était en Metical et non en US $, alors qu'ils exigeaient des dollars...plusieurs heures de palabres mais on a eu gain de cause. En définitive on a payé le supplément de 25 US (prévu) qui te coute moins cher que 4 à 5 nuits à Lilongwe.
Plusieurs passages frontières possibles, nous avons fait un choix assez peu usité et on a passé la frontière Malawi/Moz via Mangoshi qui rejoint Mandiba au Moz.
On nous prédisait ce poste frontière improbable car pas tjs ouvert...les chauffeurs de bus insistent pour que l'on passe plus au sud ( trajet plus long, billet plus cher), en fait on a trouvé un pickup et nous avons passé la frontière à pied, une marche d’une vingtaine de minutes…Ne pas répondre aux sollicitations des Malawites qui souvent te disent que le poste frontière est loin et te proposent le transport à vélo moyennant quelques dollars…ça se fait très bien à pied même sous le cagnard.
Une fois au poste, des mozambicains attendent les (rares) touristes pour les amener à Mandiba, distante de mémoire d’un bon quart d’heure à moto par la piste.
A partir de Mandiba, les départs en « Chiapas »pour Cuamba sont assez fréquents…longue piste poussiéreuse et éprouvante qui mène à Cuamba.
Guest house à petit budget: oui, même si elles ne sont pas légion. Le Nord Mozambique est très différent du Sud (colonisé par les Sud AF qui renchérissent le coût de la vie).
Le train circule de Cuamba à Nampula...beaux paysages...à proximité de Cuamba, les plantations de thé de Gurué, magnifique région et accueil remarquable des quelques voyageurs qui s'aventurent dans cette zone de moyenne montagne ignorée des touristes...à ne pas manquer quand on dispose d'un peu de temps (trajet en Chiapas)
Nampula, grosse ville, sans intérêt...mais ne pas louper la prolongation vers l'Océan Indien et faire la halte à Ilha de Moçambique, une parenthèse hors du temps, magnifique...
ensuite la descente vers le sud est longue, arrêt aux spots bien connus que tu cites: vilankulos, tofo, archipel de Bazaruto....
Comme précédemment cité, le "Bradt guide" contient une mine d'informations ( en anglais accessible)....
Enfin, et pour terminer, si la lecture ne te décourage pas, tu peux te rendre sur mon blog où tu trouveras différents articles (carnet de route) et photos concernant le Malawi et le Mozambique.
la Tanzanie n'y figure que très peu, car il s'agissait d'un autre voyage plus éloigné dans le temps:
En soustrayant la partie activité pour les deux, et un vol à 300euros pour le mozambique (pour raison de securité) tu devrais être pas mal.
Personnellement, pour répondre à ta question sur les endroits chouettes au Mozambique, nous avions vraiment aimé Ilha de Moçambique, Vilankulos et Tofo. Ilha de Moçambique est trés trés calme (l'auberge Ruby backpackers) était vraiment bien, nous ne connaissons par la nouvelle personne à l'accueil car nous avons donné envie à l'ancienne de voyager, elle est donc partie ;-) mais nous avons passé une semaine là-bas tellement c'était reposant et à la fois joli! Tofo était aussi trés calme, on a preferé à Zanzibar ;-) Vilankulos, nous n'y sommes restés que 2 jours mais la côte était vraiment jolie!!
Enfin si tu veux ajouter ça sur l'itinéraire, Ponta da Ouro est une destination trés fréquentée pa les sud africains mais c'était sympa...une balade seuls d'une journée en quad dans les dunes!! Waw!!
N'hésite pas à consulter notre blog ou nous demander si tu veux des infos particulières sur le Mozambique ;-)
Flo et Romain
Deux voyageurs et un ptit lapin partis pendant 2 ans à la découverte des jeux du monde.
Plus d'infos sur www.flo-and-romain-around-the-world.com
Je viens de me reconnecter et je m'excuse pour le manque de nouvelles ces derniers jours, en tout cas je vous remercie tous pour vos conseils et vos blogs qui sont se vraies mines d'or surtout pour cette région du monde. Du coup j'ai de la lecture et des infos a y glaner. Je reviens vers vous bientot.
bonjour
j aimerai avoir l adresse de ce temple sikh ou avez sejournez avec mon ami nou parton en afrique de l est debut octobre et nous voyagons sac a dos nous voulons vraiment partager au plus pres de la population et cherchon des endroit atypique .
merci
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Nous partons faire un road trip 2 adultes et 3 grands ados, au mois de fevrier, arrivée et départ du Cap, pourriez vous m'aider et me conseiller pour le…
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
