How to get from Antalaha to Maroantsetra?
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Translated into English.

Original post
PA
hi there

I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
Pascale
AS Astaffort Regular ·
hi pascale

yeah, it’s possible. You need to go to the port and negotiate with the boat captains there to see if any of them are heading to Maroantsetra. You can also ask at the harbormaster’s office. In October, the sea conditions are usually not too bad—the most dangerous time is during the southwest trade winds, from May to August.

Personally, I did it over 30 years ago, and it’s also possible to do it on foot in three to four days with a porter and guide. I did that in 1998—it was super interesting! We stayed with locals in tiny villages. It’s really off-the-beaten-path.
jipi
PA Pascale27 ·
Thanks for your reply. We need to get to Maroantsetra to do the trek from Maroantsetra to Antalaha. I know, it’s not very logical, but we really wanted to do it with Mada-Expéditions, and it was the only option for our dates.
Pascale
AS Astaffort Regular ·
ah okay, but you know you can easily arrange it from Antalaha by asking at the hotel Chez MOMO, and it’s way easier going from Antalaha to Maroantsetra that way. It’ll also cost you a lot less than using an agency like Mada Expeditions, which I think are really expensive. After that, it’s up to you!
jipi
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Astafort is right. You might as well start your trek from Antalaha. It's really complicated to find a boat, and it's a lottery—you'd be risking your life. There are frequent shipwrecks in the area with many fatalities. The sea is very dangerous in this sector, including in the Bay of Antongil, contrary to what you might think. Even with a modern speedboat, it would still be dangerous, and anyway, there aren’t any—unless you know one of the millionaires in Antalaha.

Before, there were small planes that flew between Antalaha and Maroantsetra, but that no longer exists. In fact, Antalaha’s airport has closed.

If you organize a trek from Antalaha, ask to see Sylvain, a guide from Antalaha. He’s experienced and really friendly.
PA Pascale27 ·
hi, finally, everything worked out, and Mada-Expéditions is arranging it for us in the Antalaha–Maroantsetra direction. Phew! Mr. Sylvain was supposed to be the guide accompanying us the other way, but in the end, they found another guide who will be Mr. Serge. While I’m at it, I have another question: I’ve heard it’s possible to travel from Sambava to Diego Suarez by cargo ship. I imagine it’s just as risky as the boat from Antalaha to Maroantsetra. It might save us from a really tough bush taxi. What do you think?
Pascale
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Too bad Sylvain is such a great guy and really funny too.

A cargo ship going from Sambava to Diego? Impossible. You probably mean cargo ships that go from Vohemar to Diego? But I don’t have much info on that. It’s pretty hypothetical in my opinion. Your travel dates would need to align with a boat departure—no easy feat. There probably aren’t departures every day, and the port in Vohemar is a total mess. Good luck to anyone who wants to tackle that!

The other option is the Vohemar–Ambilobe road, which has apparently improved *a lot*—even massively—over the last few years. Crossing it has become child’s play compared to 10 or 15 years ago. If you want more comfort, you can hire a private 4x4 with a driver for the trip instead of taking a *taxi-bé*. Just avoid the rainy season, of course.
AS Astaffort Regular ·
From Sambava to Diego, you’ve got the option of booking a flight in advance—make sure to plan ahead and don’t cut it too close.

Cargo boats leave from Sambava, but there are very few (if any). It’s Vohemar, north of Sambava (the road is pretty good and paved), that has the commercial port, but the waiting times can be really long.

Just a heads-up about boat travel: there are no passenger ships, only cargo boats, and it’ll depend entirely on the captain’s goodwill. They might ask for payment, and the smaller boats have safety standards that are, let’s say, questionable.

It’s up to you to decide!
jipi
TO Tongasoa31 ·
So what’s your trekking itinerary? Are you doing the full loop of the peninsula? Antalaha – Cap Est – Vinanvao – Cap Masoala – Tampolo – Ambanizana?

You’re gonna love it. Unforgettable trip
PA Pascale27 ·
hi there Yes, it's for a full loop in 13 days. About the cargo ship, I made a mistake—it’s actually from Vohémar, which is what I meant. With departures from Diego. Is it easier that way? Of course, this would be with compensation. Otherwise, I’m really glad to hear the Ambilobé-Vohémar road has improved. That’s the part I was worried about after reading other travelers’ accounts. So, it’d be either the cargo ship or a bush taxi. Thanks for your replies.
Pascale
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Maybe easier from Diego after all, but it still seems really complicated unless you’ve got a ton of time to wait for a boat opportunity.

Don’t forget that the "road" section between Ambilobe and Diego has also gotten pretty rough. But you won’t have much choice—it’ll have to be a *taxi-bé* for sure.
OU Ours81 Regular ·
Hi! I’ll be in Antalaha (like every year since 2009 except 2020–2021 due to COVID) from mid-October to mid-December for fishing. If you’re looking for accommodation in Antalaha, I’d suggest Villa Malaza (that’s where I stay during my trips). You can also find lots of info about the Antalaha–Maroantsetra hiking trail from Gisèle, the owner, who has completed the route several times. She was born in a village along the trail (and lived in France for several decades before returning to Antalaha)! Veloma
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Villa Malaza really does offer the best value for money in town. And Gisèle is super friendly, as is Alain.
PA Pascale27 ·
hi there thanks for the info. The hotel looks really nice, but unfortunately, our accommodation is included in the price of the trek, and it’ll be the "La Liane" hotel. I’ll be there on October 10th. Maybe we’ll cross paths.
Pascale
OU Ours81 Regular ·
A medium-sized boat used to make the trip from Diego Suarez to Vohémar for passengers and goods once or twice a week back when the Ambilobe-Vohémar road was *really* bad (taxis and bush buses took about 17 hours one way and 11 hours the other for 160 km). But when the "super" Ambilobe-Vohémar road was put into service, I think the boat route was abandoned! The new bridge in Ambilobe collapsed (2023?) after a once-in-a-century flood, and a raised ford was built for vehicles to cross. Right now, a new bridge (or repairs to the old one?) is under construction! !😉
PA Pascale27 ·
hi Ours I’m planning to do the Ambilobé-Vohémar route around October 2nd or 3rd. So relieved to hear the road isn’t a nightmare anymore! Fingers crossed everything goes smoothly!
Pascale
OU Ours81 Regular ·
...relieved to see the road isn’t hellish anymore...

Hi! Photos from my 2013 trip and now 😉
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Wait, is it even paved now? I didn’t know... Is it paved all the way from start to finish? With the bridges in good condition?
PA Pascale27 ·
Wow, that's amazing! Has it become the most beautiful road in Madagascar ?
Pascale
PA Pascale27 ·
Hi there, I’ve got a huge problem! Our trek with Mada-Expéditions just fell through! I contacted them through their website and had a lot of back-and-forth with Mr. Zatovo before finalizing and paying a 600 € deposit. But now Luc Babin, the owner of Mada-Expéditions, just got in touch to say his lodge (where we were supposed to stay for 2 nights during the trek) is closed at that time. He claims Zatovo is just his accountant, that he negotiated everything without knowing what he was doing, that he gave us a price that’s impossible to honor (even though it’s the price listed on the site), that I haggled over the price (which is false), that I’m not trustworthy, and that since I was starting my trip in Nosy Be, he didn’t want people like me in his Masaola and wouldn’t do anything to fix the situation. He hung up on me! So now we’re left without a trek and we’ve lost 600 €! We’re still thinking of going to Antalaha anyway and checking with the Hôtel Malaza instead. Yesterday, I was pretty shaken after that aggressive call and I’ll admit I’m feeling lost.
Pascale
PA Pascale27 ·
Hi there, big problem for me! Our trek with mada-expéditions just fell through! I had contacted them through their website and exchanged a lot with Mr. Zatovo before finalizing and paying a deposit of 600 €. But now I’ve been contacted by Luc Babin, the owner of mada-expéditions, who tells me that his lodge (where we were supposed to stay for 2 nights during the trek) is closed at that time. He says Zatovo is just his accountant, that he negotiated everything without knowing anything, that he gave us a price that’s impossible to honor (even though it’s the price listed on the site), that I negotiated the price (which is false), that I’m not trustworthy, and that since I was starting my trip in Nosy Be, well, he didn’t want people like me in his Masaola, and he wouldn’t do anything to fix the situation. He hung up on me! So now, we don’t have a trek anymore, and we’ve lost 600 €! We’re still thinking of going to Antalaha anyway and checking with the Hôtel Malaza instead. Yesterday, I was still in shock after that violent phone call, and I’ll admit I’m at a loss.
Pascale
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Hi, no surprise—it’s always like this in Madagascar. If you want something straightforward, you’d go to Germany 😄.

Luc Babin seems to be a bit of a character, like all the *vazahas* who hang around down there. 😄

You could try contacting Gisèle from Villa Malaza—she might be able to help organize things or put you in touch with Sylvain, the guide.

Sylvain had a Facebook page back in the day, but I can’t seem to find it now...

Back then, Bruno from Mimi Restau in Sambava used to organize this kind of thing, not sure if he still does...

You could also try reaching out to Dina from Soaland Discovery (Ramanandraibe Group). If she’s still working for them, she’ll definitely be able to help—she’s super friendly.

Another idea: try contacting the national parks guides’ office in Maroantsetra or Antalaha.

Either way, you’ll want to plan this in advance because once you’re in Antalaha, it’ll take a lot of time to get things moving. Trust my solid Antalaha experience 😄.

Safe travels.
PA Pascale27 ·
hi Tongasoa I’m totally up for the adventurous side, including the mishaps—those’ll make great stories to laugh about later :D. I’ll follow your advice and check in with the people you mentioned. We’ll see how it goes... And if we don’t do the trek, well, we’ll do something else instead. Thanks for the names. I know Sylvain is THE guide to contact, but I also know he’ll be guiding two women on the trek with... mada-expéditions at that exact time. Tough luck! Have a good evening
Pascale
TO Tongasoa31 ·
When you think about it, there isn’t much to organize—you just need an official guide approved by Madagascar National Parks for Masoala.

Along the way, your guide will always find a place to sleep and eat. That said, don’t expect too much in terms of comfort, etc.

Take a 4x4 or shared taxi to Cap-Est where Ratsianarana is, then it’s on foot to Ambanizana. From what I’ve heard, that’s usually where people catch the boat back to Maroantsetra.

Have a great trip!
RJ RJA78 ·
Hi Pierrot! I’m excited to write to you about the Maroantsetra - Antalaha trek. You mentioned a guy named Sylvain, a really nice guide, and recommended his service. Could you put us in touch with him? Thanks so much in advance for your kindness. Julien
RJA
RJ RJA78 ·
Hi there, I’d really like to get in touch with the famous guide Sylvain—you all describe him as super friendly and cool—because I’m planning to trek from Maroantsetra to Antalaha soon. Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance
RJA
TO Tongasoa31 ·
Hi. I just found Sylvain’s Facebook account. It’s Sylvain Karabo on Facebook. You can try contacting him that way… but I don’t know if he still uses it.

Otherwise, you’ll need to try getting in touch with the Madagascar national parks offices in Maroantsetra or Antalaha.
RJ RJA78 ·
Thanks so much for your precious help! I tried sending him a friend request on his FB account—I really hope he’ll respond, as long as his account is still active on the network. See you soon, dear friend!
RJA
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Hi there, I hadn’t really followed the discussions or everything that happened afterward. Still, the hotel owner’s behavior is shocking—adding indecency to their unprofessionalism with an outrageous reaction. Not to mention a huge amount to write off as a loss, even though it seems the money was actually paid to someone connected to their business. Disgraceful.

So, where are you now, or where are you heading in Madagascar? With everything going on there, it’s not straightforward. But in the area you’re planning to visit, everything should still be doable.
AS Astaffort Regular ·
hi Rotsaka I’ve been in Madagascar since September 23rd with no problems except for downtown Tana and our arrival in Tamatave on September 25th (a few tires burning on the roads but nothing serious) since then, an amazing stay in Sainte Marie and Madagascar Airlines is GREAT!!! we stayed 5 days around Ampefy and took the road to Antsirabe up to Faratsiho via RN 43 with no issues the worst road is between Tamatave and Soniaranivongo: 7 hours for 163 km we’re in Ambodatrimo now, leaving tomorrow morning for Majunga veloma
jipi
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Perfect. Every time there’s a crisis in Madagascar—and this one confirms it again—travelers are rarely affected as long as they follow basic rules like not hanging around areas with protests or blockades.

A little update on Sainte Marie and Ampefy/Faratsiho? To make us dream a bit.

Thanks and have a great day!
AS Astaffort Regular ·
hi I’ll share more when I’m back in France at the end of November. Île Sainte-Marie was great—stayed at a quiet hotel in the north, Hôtel Atafana. Much quieter and more peaceful than along the Ambodifotra–airport strip in the south, plus the beach was right in front of the bungalow. All the visits were great with nice weather, not too hot. On the Ampefy side, the road was good except for the exit from Tana, which was a nightmare because of traffic jams. The restaurant La Terrasse was still as good as ever and perfect. See you later!
jipi
VO Voyageur896 ·
Hi, For any info between Soanierana Ivongo, Mananara, Maroantsetra, and Antalaha, I suggest checking out http://www.masoalaguide.com/en
PA Pascale27 ·
Thanks for the info.
Pascale

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