Eastern Europe · Croatia

Hi there,

This summer, we’ve decided to do a 3-week road trip starting from Nice and heading down to Ksamil in Albania.

We’re leaving from Nice, and our route is already pretty much set: Nice - Verona (Italy) - Rijeka (Croatia) - Zadar - Split - Budva (Montenegro) - Shkodër (Albania) - Ksamil, then back through Italy via Bari.

The itinerary is packed! 🙂

Do you have any suggestions for things to see—visits, beaches, viewpoints, villages, or excursions—to make the most of our journey?

Thanks everyone!

Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou

hello I’m looking for advice for a last-minute trip—about 3 weeks (half Montenegro, half Croatia). I’m traveling solo, backpacker style (low budget, hostels). I’m 40 and love exploring cool spots—cities, beaches, mountains, sports activities, you name it.

I’m torn between renting a car or just going with the flow using buses once I’m there. A car would definitely be more convenient, but it might be pricier—plus, parking (is it paid?) and having to return it to the same place. My plan is to start in Montenegro (flying into Podgorica or Albania) and finish in Croatia, so I’d either need to do short-term rentals per country or one-way.

In Montenegro, here are the spots I’ve noted: - Ulcinj and Velika Plaža beach - A side trip to Lake Skadar and Virpazar - Budva, Sveti Stefan, and Petrovac - Cetinje and Lovćen National Park - Kotor / Perast - Žabljak and Durmitor National Park + rafting in the Tara Canyon Is 8–10 days enough?

And in Croatia, I’ve got: - Dubrovnik - Korčula - Hvar - Split + Trogir and Krka National Park - Zadar - Plitvice Lakes National Park - Croatian Istria / Rovinj / Pula - Zagreb Around 10–12 days.

Any tips on the stops (adding or cutting some from my list) or transportation options?

Thanks in advance!

Eight months after our vacation in Croatia, Europcar took 1,611.25 € from us... yes, you read that right—1,611.25 €!! At first, we thought it was a credit card scam, but after a little investigation and the documents sent by the rental company (which had the wrong email address), it turned out the city of Dubrovnik had hit us with this huge fine. Following the GPS on June 9, 2025, we were simply heading to our accommodation with parking on Zagrebačka Street. This one-way, busy street has been off-limits to vehicles without a pass issued by local authorities since June 2, 2025. There’s a checkpoint at the entrance with license plate scanning, but the signs announcing the zone are in Croatian! Our landlord didn’t warn us and hadn’t registered our plate with the authorities, as recommended on the city’s website. The result? A prohibitive fine for both the vehicle and the driver. On top of that, the rules say you only have 8 days to appeal... super convenient when you’re on a road trip abroad and no one flags the issue when you return the car a few days later. This is a real blow for us, but more importantly, it’s a massive tourist scam set up by the city of Dubrovnik. 🙁

I’d love to know if there are any shuttles or other easy and cheaper ways to get to Civitavecchia from Rome Airport, which should be about 70 km away. Thanks in advance for your great tips!

Hi everyone.

With the kids getting older, I’ve finally decided to head somewhere a bit more exotic than our usual (and wonderful) Brittany. We’ve chosen to visit Austria and Slovenia, with a little detour through Zagreb. We’ll be spending a day there, and I’d love to make sure we don’t miss anything. Here’s my little plan—let me know what you think!

- Parking between Ridnjack Park and Zagreb Cathedral - Quick stroll through Dolac Market - Visit Kamenita Vrata (Stone Gate) - Saint Catherine’s Church - Head to Lotrščak Tower: at noon for the cannon firing. - Walk through Grič Tunnel - Head down to Ban Jelačić Square - Then visit Zrinjevac Park (its monuments and beautiful facades) - Head back north to see St. Mark’s Church - Tkalčićeva Street (pedestrian street) and Opatovina Park

There we go... I’ve definitely forgotten a ton of things... What do you think? Thanks!

Stéphane.

Hi everyone! 🙂 We’re planning a one-week trip to Croatia but can’t decide between Zadar and Dubrovnik, especially since we’ll be using public transport or trains to explore the surrounding areas. What are some relaxed, easy things to do around these cities? We don’t want to rush. Of course, we’re really drawn to Plitvice and its park, but Dubrovnik looks so beautiful... For those of you who know these destinations well, could you help us decide, please? Thanks so much!

Mid-June, two Auvergnats on the starting blocks—off we go to the former Yugoslavia! We’d already explored some nooks and crannies of northern Croatia back in 2019, so we’re keeping the momentum going by planning a trip to the south of the country and then Montenegro.

On the way back, we’ll drift into Bosnia-Herzegovina just to mix things up a bit!

We’re a little unsure about what to expect in terms of tourist crowds.

Dubrovnik has a reputation for being the hardest-hit city by overtourism, and Kotor and the whole Dalmatian coast aren’t exactly empty...

Luckily, most European countries haven’t started school holidays yet, and some measures seem to have been put in place to limit the flow (like restrictions on the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at the same time).

Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?

For now, we’re slamming the doors of the Scirocco and heading off to our first stop: northern Italy!

Hi there, We’d like to visit Montenegro without a car and are looking for routes by either bus or train. We’ll be traveling for 12 days. Thanks!

Hi I’m offering my 29-year-old daughter a trip to Croatia. We can only go in August, and we’d love to combine hiking and snorkeling. It seems like Dalmatia could be perfect for both—do you know of any youth hostels or Airbnbs at reasonable prices? Thanks in advance Laurence from Bayonne

How to use local transport... local bus for the trip from Dubrovnik to Kotor while avoiding organized tours leaving from Dubrovnik. The flexibus buses cost 32 € ...64 € round-trip... other buses are 28 €..... I don’t think Croatians charge that much for a 92 km bus ride... anyone have any info.... or should we rent a car if there are two of us? Best regards, Serge

Hello,

After spending some time reading through the forum posts, I’m finally taking the plunge to ask for your help. We’re planning a family trip—a couple with two kids aged 10 and 12—and we’ll be driving from the Paris region. Flying isn’t an option for us. We’ll pass through Munich on the way out and Mantua on the way back. I’ve tried to design an itinerary that suits our preferences: moving at a relaxed pace, avoiding constant packing and unpacking, and keeping the kids engaged. To give you an idea, our oldest wasn’t too impressed with Corsica because "it was meh, just pretty landscapes to look at." Our youngest is only happy when she can dip her feet in the water, and the parents aren’t fans of lounging on a towel for too long.

After all my research, I’ll admit I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed. Is this itinerary doable without turning into a mad dash? Am I missing any must-see spots? Is the Croatia leg realistic? Is it worth staying 4 nights on Brač, given we’re not big beach fans? Have I accounted for enough time at the border crossings? I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice.

Here’s the planned itinerary from July 21 to August 17: Day 1 to 4: Munich Day 5: Depart Munich for Plitvice Lakes (overnight there) Day 6: Visit Plitvice Lakes (overnight there) Day 7: Drive to Una (overnight in Cardaklije) Day 8: Visit Una (overnight in Cardaklije) Day 9: Rafting? (overnight in Cardaklije) Day 10: Drive to Sarajevo. Visit Jajce and Travnik? (overnight in Sarajevo) Day 11: Visit Sarajevo (overnight in Sarajevo) Day 12: Skakavac Waterfalls or other points of interest in the area (overnight in Sarajevo) Day 13: Drive to Mostar. Visit Konjic and Jablanica (overnight in Mostar or Blagaj?) Day 14: Kravica Waterfalls (overnight in Mostar or Blagaj?) Day 15: Visit Blagaj (overnight in Mostar or Blagaj?) Day 16: Visit Počitelj—drive to Hutovo Blato (overnight where???) Day 17: Visit (overnight where??) Day 18: Visit Split (and Trogir?) (overnight in Split or nearby) Day 19: Ferry to Brač (4 nights on Brač) Day 23: Ferry back to Split—drive to Šibenik (overnight in Šibenik or nearby) Day 24: Day trip to the Kornati Islands? (overnight in Šibenik) Day 25: Krka National Park (overnight in Šibenik) Day 26: Depart for Mantua

What do you think? I’m eagerly awaiting your responses. Thanks so much for your help!

Hi there, We were planning to spend a month in June exploring Croatia (Istria for 1 week, Plitvice Park, Zadar, Split, the islands, Dubrovnik…) and Montenegro, and we’ve already made good progress on our plans. But after reading the forum, we got a bit worried—there are so many negative reviews. Apparently, tourism has exploded, and Croatians are getting more and more fed up (which we totally get), becoming aggressive and disrespectful. The euro has sent prices skyrocketing, and scams of all kinds are popping up—even car vandalism is being mentioned!!

Here’s what we had in mind: Day 1: Our trip was supposed to start from Nice by car, with a stop in Verona to arrive in Croatia the next day. Days 2–6: First possible detour to visit Postojna Cave in Slovenia (or later from Rijeka... but I’ve heard border crossings can be super long!!!) and a 5-night stay in Rovinj (visiting Rovinj, Bale, Poreč, Grožnjan, and other small villages, Pula, maybe Cape Kamenjak, relaxing on beaches, possibly Cres Island). - Days 7–8: Head toward Rijeka and Plitvice Lakes National Park via the coastal road; 2 nights outside the park (given the prices!!!) and visit the park the next day. Do we need to book park entry way in advance for June? - Days 9–11 or 12: Leave for Zadar for 4 nights—one island (Dugi Otok, Pašman Island, Kornati Islands National Park, Silba, Molat, Olib, Premuda, Sakarun Bay, Veli Žal Beach, Iž Island, Ugljan Island), explore the city, and check out the surroundings. - Days 13–15: Head to Split, visit Šibenik, Split, and Trogir. - Days 16–17: Hvar Island. - Days 18–21 or 22: Head to Dubrovnik, explore the city, cross over to Korčula, Prapatno port at the start of the Pelješac Peninsula, via Ston, Mljet Island (Konavle and Cavtat port?).

- Then return to Split to catch the ferry to Ancona or head to Montenegro for 5–7 days.

If you’ve visited Croatia since 2023 (when it joined the Schengen Zone), we’d love to hear your thoughts on traveling there in June. Françoise

Hi there,

I’m in the middle of planning our trip to Croatia. We’re arriving in early September for a week in Split and leaving from Split as well. We’re a couple with a 20-month-old little girl. We’re renting a car directly at the airport, which I still need to book (I have a GOLD debit card). I hope that won’t be an issue because, logically, with this card, I shouldn’t need to take out extra insurance from the rental company. If you have any recommendations on that, I’d love to hear them.

As for the itinerary I’m planning, I’ve already ruled out Plitvice and Zadar because we don’t want to spend too much time on the road—this is a vacation, after all—and some travelers told me Zadar can be seen quickly and isn’t worth the long drive. For the nights, someone already suggested we spend the last two in Trogir to consolidate.

I particularly love beautiful towns, historic centers, ports, taking photos, shopping, beaches, and seeing stunning places. We’re not big on museums, and hiking with a little one makes long or steep hikes tricky, especially with the heat we might encounter.

Here’s the initial plan I’ve come up with:

Day 1:

Activities: Arrive in Split in the morning, pick up the car, explore the historic center, Marjan Hill... Klis Fortress, and see what else we can add before evening. Night: Initially planned near Plitvice (2 min away).

Day 2:

Activities: Day at Plitvice—check out Entrance 1 or 2 with the baby. Night: Lozovac (2 min from Krka, 16 min from Šibenik, and 1 hour from Zadar).

Day 3: Activities: Zadar and Šibenik. Night: Lozovac (2 min from Krka, 16 min from Šibenik, and 1 hour from Zadar).

Day 4: Activities: Krka National Park (someone recommended going after 4 PM and seeing the "circular" waterfalls) + Primošten. Night: Lozovac (2 min from Krka, 16 min from Šibenik, and 1 hour from Zadar).

Day 5: Activities: Hvar (exploring the island). Night: Jelsa.

Day 6: Activities: Omiš + Starigrad Fortress. Night: Omiš.

Day 7: Activities: Trogir city center, Čiovo Island. Night: Trogir.

I haven’t updated the plan yet because I’m still looking for the best way to optimize it. Someone suggested Makarska and Brač as alternatives to Plitvice.

Given that I’m already planning to visit Hvar with an overnight stay, is it worth adding Brač? If so, maybe taking the ferry without the car—would we still be able to enjoy the day without being too limited? Did I forget anything essential? Thanks in advance—I know answering all these questions can be repetitive, but it’ll save me so much time and help optimize our vacation. I also like to take my time and enjoy being there rather than stressing over preparations, which is why I’m planning just enough. What’s most important to me is optimizing the route and staying in places that let us explore easily. I think we’ll come back another time to enjoy Dubrovnik, which we didn’t include in this itinerary because it’s over two hours away with a border crossing.

What I really want to see: Trogir, Split, Krka, Hvar…

Hi there, Once again, I’m turning to VoyageForum to kick off my trip planning—this time, it’s Croatia! I’m treating my 29-year-old daughter to a trip where we’d love to combine hiking and snorkelling. I’m not sure if we can focus on just one region, but that’d be ideal since we’ll only have 10–15 days in August this year. Could anyone point me in the right direction for a first lead? Are transport links easy to navigate? Is it better to go with Airbnb or a hostel? Thanks in advance for your tips! Laurence from Bayonne

Hi there, we're heading to southern Croatia for nine nights in early September. We land in Dubrovnik and fly out from Split. I’ve already read a lot of discussions on this forum, and I’ll admit I’m a bit overwhelmed... I’d love your advice, because I’m not sure if we should visit the islands of Korčula, Hvar, or Brač (with all the ferry hassles, potential delays, or boarding issues), since we’ve rented a car. Or is the coast so beautiful that there’s already plenty to see without rushing around, and we know we can’t do it all anyway?

At the start of the trip, we’ve planned one night to see the Bay of Kotor, then maybe one night back in Dubrovnik, and after that, we’re unsure.

What do you recommend?

If we stick to the mainland, maybe we could go as far as Krka National Park.

Thanks, and have a great day!

Hi there! 🙂

Our summer destination is set: it’ll be a European loop starting from Auvergne, heading down to southern Croatia and then Montenegro, with a return via Mostar.

We’ll zip down to southern Croatia in two stages (we’ve been as far as Šibenik on a previous trip). Here are our booked stops:

Split – 2 nights Makarska – 1 night (via Sveti Jure) Pelješac Peninsula – 6 nights (day trips to Dubrovnik and Korčula from here – Mljet?) Kotor – 1 night Between Cetinje and Budva – 3 nights (Lovćen, Budva, Lake Skadar from our rental) Near Žabljak – 3 nights (via Ostrog / Mrtvica Canyon, Durmitor National Park) Mostar – 2 nights (via Blagaj)

Back to Auvergne in two stages.

Here are my questions:

- Any ideas for sights, detours, or hikes (no more than 500 m elevation gain and 15 km distance) along this route?

- What’s the deal with crossing borders between Croatia and Montenegro, then Montenegro and Bosnia and Herzegovina? I’ve read that the crossing between the first two countries can take hours in the summer...

- Crowds in Croatia: Dubrovnik is apparently best avoided on days when cruise ships dock. I found a site that shows how many ships arrive each day. It says none on Sundays—but is Sunday really accurate? What other places suffer from overtourism? (Before Italian vacation season starts.)

All your suggestions are welcome (just FYI, guided tours, jet skis, jet-set vibes, and quad-bike conga lines are *not* on my wishlist)!

Thanks! 😉

Hi there, I’m planning a family road trip (with young kids) next August in Montenegro, Bosnia, and Dubrovnik. Not sure if it’s doable to combine all three in 16/17 nights. Here’s my first draft itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Dubrovnik. Head to Mostar (Blagaj village, Kravica waterfalls, Počitelj) in Bosnia. 3 nights. 2h35 drive Day 4: Head to Sarajevo (city), stopping by Jablanica Lake for 2 nights. 2h00 drive. Unsure if we should go all the way to the capital. Day 6: Head to Durmitor National Park (Zabljak) for 3 nights (hike, Durmitor Ring, Tara Canyon, Black Lake). 4h00 drive (anything worth seeing along the way?) Day 9: Head to the Bay of Kotor (between Kotor and Budva) for 4 nights. 3h00 drive. Day 13: Morning departure for Mljet Island (Croatia) for 3 nights. 5h00 drive (via Trebinje in Bosnia). Day 16: Head back to Dubrovnik (city + Lokrum Island) for 1/2 nights. Day 17/18: Return flight

What do you think?

hi everyone

It's still just a plan, but I'm considering traveling to Antalya in Turkey in autumn 2025 using the following route: - From France to the Croatian coast (route not yet defined) - "Down" the Croatian coast, Montenegro, Albania, and Greece. - Crossing the Peloponnese to Kalamata - Ferry to Kissamos (Crete) - Crossing Crete and ferry from Sitia to Rhodes - Tour of Rhodes and crossing to Fethiye (Turkey) - Connection to Antalya

If anyone has already taken this route, I’d love to hear any tips or advice. For now, I don’t have info on ferries for September and October—have you taken them? Do they allow bikes? Top

Slovenia was the originally planned destination for summer 2022, as a complement to a road trip through Croatia and Montenegro. Plans changed on a whim in February of that year. Our Balkans road trip would ultimately be limited to Slovenia and take place over 10 days during the Easter school holidays. Flight tickets and car rental were booked right away; all that was left was to finalize our itinerary, already sketched out, and the accommodation reservations.

I decided to add Plitvice Lakes in Croatia to our program. I really wanted to discover them, and for my husband, it was a chance to revisit them several years after a trip to Yugoslavia when he was a teenager.

I’m happy to contribute to the reopening of our forum by posting this travel journal (originally posted in 2022 on another forum, the text has been partially revised and photos added). As usual, a few photos to start with—maybe they’ll inspire you to join in!

Hi everyone! We're planning to visit Croatia during the last week of June and the first week of July, flying into Split from Lille. Here's our itinerary: one week in Split to explore the nearby areas and visit the Krka waterfalls, which aren't too far. Then, a second week in Zadar to check out the surrounding sights and head to the Plitvice waterfalls. We'll be renting a car for the entire trip, but for Plitvice, we intentionally want to take a bus from Zadar and spend a night there to take our time exploring this incredible place.

Here's where I'd love your help, please. First, in Split, which rental agency allows payment on-site with a credit card (or debit/credit card) to avoid mandatory last-minute insurance costing several hundred euros? We had this issue in Sardinia last summer—online booking was fine, but once we arrived, they claimed our card wasn’t working and refused to hand over the keys unless we took out extra insurance, which we didn’t need. It’s becoming a frustrating trend, even though I’ll clarify that we have a *credit* card (specifically a debit/credit card, not just a debit card). I don’t want to reopen the debate about credit vs. debit cards—just know that our card explicitly states both terms, even though it’s technically a credit card.

Next, in Zadar, we know there are buses to Plitvice, and sometimes accommodations near bus stops. What’s the name of Zadar’s main bus station where we’ll catch the bus (so we can find nearby accommodation)? More importantly, which bus line and stop (please give the exact stop name) will get us closest to accommodations in Plitvice? I’ve done some research before posting and think I’ve identified the "Mukinje station" stop, which is near Entrance 2 where there are lodgings, and the "flexible bus stop north," which is close to Entrance 1 with accommodations just a few hundred meters away. Perfect for two days in nature without needing the car! I’ve tried to find the exact bus line and route with all the stops between Zadar and Plitvice but haven’t had any luck so far.

Huge thanks in advance to anyone who can share their experiences on these two specific topics: reliable rental agencies and the exact bus station/stop details in Zadar for Plitvice.

Hi, Do you have any tips for renting a car in Croatia? I’m leaving from central Zagreb on June 6th and returning to Dubrovnik Airport on June 19th, so a total of 14 days. I’ve got a quote for 655 € for an automatic economy car, including two drivers, GPS, zero-excess insurance, ferries, and cross-border travel. Pretty much everything, really. What do you think? Any agencies you’d recommend? Thanks! Marie

Hi everyone!

I’m heading to Croatia for the second time (first time was 5 days in Dubrovnik), but this time I’ll be seeing more of the country since I’m renting a car to drive between Dubrovnik and Split. I’ve got 2 days and 2 nights for the trip, and I was wondering which stops I could make. I’m looking for quiet, typical villages or spots where I can swim peacefully—just a nice break between the two touristy cities. 😊

Thanks in advance for your help!

Croatia

October 2024

Hi everyone, I wanted to share our family week in Croatia. Alex and I, with Apolline (6), Olympe (4), and Artémis (18 months).

Itinerary

Planning the itinerary was complicated, but in the end, I wouldn’t change a thing. Since we had a round-trip flight from Dubrovnik, I preferred to prioritize proximity, so we skipped Plitvice, which I’d really love to visit—but that’ll be for next time. We had time to... take our time, and it was really nice.

Day 1: Marseille-Dubrovnik flight. Night in Ston.

Day 2: Visit to Ston and Mali Ston. Ferry to Mljet. Night in Pomena (3 nights total).

Days 3 & 4: Walks in Mljet National Park and swimming.

Day 5: Return ferry. Visit to the Trsteno Arboretum. Night in Dubrovnik (3 nights total).

Day 6: Visit to Dubrovnik’s city walls and Old Town.

Day 7: Lokrum.

Day 8: Morning in Dubrovnik, then Cavtat and overnight flight back to Marseille.

Our visits

Ston area:

Ston village, small but charming. We walked the walls from Ston to Mali Ston. It’s a steep climb, but the views over Ston and then Mali Ston are stunning. Easy return by road, and we visited the fort. Stroller impossible on the walls.

Pratpano Beach before taking the ferry. A beautiful beach and our first swim!

Mljet

Everything is beautiful on Mljet—the villages, landscapes, beaches... There are plenty of hiking and biking trails of varying difficulty. We saw lots of bike rental shops (Pomena, Polače, at the dock for St. Mary’s...), with some bikes equipped with child seats (though no baby trailers). In Pomena, there’s a small national park office that provides maps, sells entry tickets, and gives info on possible routes. The trails are well-marked. The boat to St. Mary’s Island is included in the park entry fee.

On the first day, from Pomena, we were 20 minutes’ walk from the small saltwater lake and the dock for St. Mary’s Monastery. We visited the little island, but the monastery interior was closed. We swam in Malo Jezero Lake (but there are plenty of spots to swim in both lakes).

The next day, we did a big loop starting from Pomena, walking through the forest (with beautiful sea views) to Janik (across from the monastery), then returning along the shore paths for a swim. An easy hike with little elevation—Olympe did it without any problems. The route is clearly marked on the bike trail map from the park office.

On our last day before the 3 PM ferry, we swam and had a picnic on one of Saplunara’s gorgeous sandy beaches—we had the whole place to ourselves!

Trsteno Arboretum (30 minutes from Dubrovnik). A stunning botanical garden overlooking the sea, which we visited in the late afternoon. Stroller accessible.

Dubrovnik:

City walls. Very expensive, but worth it! Lets you see the whole Old Town and the port from above. Stroller impossible.

Old Town: lots of beautiful, narrow alleys where laundry dries between buildings. Stroller possible but not practical. We visited the two monasteries and the cathedral inside but skipped the Rector’s Palace and St. Lawrence Fort.

Lokrum: deserves a full day. A beautiful walk circles the island, alternating between coves, historic buildings, and botanical gardens. We were short on time before the last boat left, but there are plenty of great spots to swim. You can’t do the full loop with a stroller, but I think the main sights near the dock are accessible.

Cavtat: a great surprise—I’d recommend it if, like us, you have a late flight. Just 15 minutes from the airport, it’s a charming seaside village with a lovely waterfront promenade (stroller-friendly), several swimming coves, and a cute center with things to see if you have extra time (museum, mausoleum, church...), plus restaurants, gelato shops, and boutiques...

Even though the girls walked a lot and enjoyed the walks, they *loved* swimming almost every day.

Transportation

Flight with Volotea. 1-hour delay on the way back.

Rental car with Goldcar. Office 100m outside the airport (it’s small, so about a 10-minute walk from arrivals). We were first in line, and luckily so—the employee was alone, and the queue behind us got really long, so budget extra time.

Don’t plan on driving in central Dubrovnik—the parking is outrageously expensive (over 5 €/hour near the walls), so book accommodation with parking and be ready for some walking.

Ferry: punctual. This time of year, we didn’t need to be at the dock more than 30 minutes before departure. Booked online.

Accommodation

I won’t talk about our place in Ston—it wasn’t very comfortable—or the one in Pomena, where we were really poorly received. But both locations were great for sightseeing. In Dubrovnik, we spent 3 nights at Natasa’s Airbnb (Apt Kalea), which was well-equipped, comfortable, and well-located—20 minutes’ walk from the center, with parking, a garden, and... a washing machine. All right across from a supermarket and a great bakery. For those with bigger budgets, the Art Deco Hilton in the center had me dreaming for 3 days!

Food

We didn’t eat out much because of the prices, but when we did, the food was great. The cuisine blends Italian and Slavic influences, so expect amazing seafood dishes, cuttlefish ink risotto, and big mixed grilled meats, not to mention pepper sauce. Despite the price, I’d recommend the restaurant in Mali Ston, *Kapetanova Kuća*. The food was great, and the service was friendly. If you have a late flight like we did, don’t hesitate to eat at the bistro almost across from the airport, *Pod Dubom*—good, affordable menu and a smiling waiter!

A great local picnic specialty: *burek*, a delicious savory pie (meat or cheese) you’ll find in bakeries or supermarkets. Also, good dry sheep’s cheese.

For picnics in Dubrovnik, I’d recommend the pine grove at St. Lawrence Fort or the benches above the port (at the end of Dominika Street). Both have amazing views.

Weather

We had beautiful weather—perfect for swimming *and* hiking. A light sweater for mornings and late afternoons, T-shirt and swimsuit during the day. In this part of Croatia, I’d say it’s comparable to southeastern France, so ideal for a fall break.

Gear

We like taking our stroller (Yoyo) for airport trips, but it wasn’t much use otherwise. If you have to choose, a baby carrier is better—between the cobblestones and hiking trails, it’s often the only way to carry a little one. We have the Deuter Pro hiking carrier, and Artémis loves it. We had high chairs in the few restaurants we went to, but not in our accommodations, so I brought a foldable fabric seat that fits on any chair. We had a crib in Ston and Pomena but not in Dubrovnik—Artémis slept on the floor on a folded duvet.

I invested in a Minimax *cabin-sized* suitcase for Apolline for this trip—she was so proud to have her first rolling suitcase! It turned out to be practical and seems sturdy. It let us take just one checked bag for all five of us for the first time.

Good and bad impressions

The swims in Mljet’s stunning, nearly empty nature.

Unfortunately, we felt unwelcome. The guidebook mentioned that Croatians can be standoffish at first, but we never got past that first impression. The constant feeling of being in the way—even though we weren’t there in peak season—was a bit unsettling. On the way back, I found out everyone I talked to (with or without kids) felt the same. Of course, it’s not universal—some people were polite, even warm (yes, really!).

No major issues, but a few things to note:

The car rental company only accepted debit cards, not credit cards. It was clearly stated in the contract, but I didn’t take it seriously. Luckily, Alexandre had a professional debit card, but *double-check yours before you go*.

For the car, despite the super-low rental price, you’ll have to add fees if you plan to take a ferry (50 to 80 € depending on the agency).

On Mljet, the only supermarket in Pomena was closed. We had to drive 10 minutes to Polače for basics. For diapers, we had to go even farther. I only saw formula for newborns in small supermarkets—maybe you can find more in Dubrovnik or at a pharmacy. I ended up using regular milk for Artémis.

Health

No issues, and no one got sick. We swam in very accessible spots given the girls’ ages, but if you’re eyeing a gorgeous little cove, watch out for sea urchins—we saw a lot!

Portable DVD players for the plane and car, but we barely used them. The girls watched cartoons in English on TV.

Kidizoom cameras.

A few toys for Artémis.

Budget

We found Croatia expensive, and I imagine it’s even worse in summer. For restaurants, sightseeing, and groceries, expect to pay the same as—or more than—in France. On the other hand, flights were low-cost, and accommodations were reasonable. The rental car was almost a steal, even with the extra ferry fees.

Round-trip flight from Marseille: 583 €

Car for 8 days: 56 € (+50 € for ferry fees)

Accommodations (7 nights): 509 €

Sightseeing:

Mljet National Park entry: 15 €/adult for 2 days (boat to St. Mary’s included)

Arboretum: 10 €/adult

Dubrovnik walls: 35 €/adult

Ferry Pratpano-Mljet: 60 € round-trip