Après des mois (exactement depuis fevrier, date où j’ai acheté mon billet d’avion) à lire vos nombreux messages sur l’Egypte, tour a tour intéressée, intriguée, amusée (de vos ‘disputes’ 😉), je me decide enfin à vous demander des conseils pour les 15 jours que je vais passer en Egypte cet été. En fait je vais rejoindre un ami egyptien, et c’est avec lui que j’effectuerai mon petit periple.
Programme tres resumé: j’atterris le 29 juillet au Caire, où on va rester 1 semaine (visite de la ville, pyramides, al fayoum, wadi natroun, ..), puis on hesite soit à aller a louxor (voire assouan), soit à faire alexandrie + port said ; et on veut terminer par 1 ou 2 jours à ismailia parce que c’est là qu’habite sa famille, puis depart du Caire le 12 aout.
Donc il nous reste environ 4 jours au milieu, pour visiter le nord ou le sud… Vous en pensez quoi ? Mon ami me dit qu’il fait trop chaud l’ete dans le sud (mais j’ai deja resisté un mois entier en inde au mois d’aout), et qu’on aura surement pas assez de temps… D’un autre coté, il me semble qu’alexandrie et port said sont assez occidentales (enfin, tout est relatif), et que ça serait mieux de decouvrir qqchose de plus ‘egyptien’ . Je me dis que si je repars de ce pays sans avoir vu la haute egypte je vais le regretter toute ma vie ! Mais d’un autre coté, j’aurai pt etre plus facilement l’occasion de visiter le sud que le nord si je reviens en egypte en voyage organisé (bien que ça m’etonnerait que je parte un jour en voyage organisé, mais bon on sait jamais), alexandrie et port said etant rarement programmés par les TO.
Merci de vos conseils, remarques, bons plans…
P.S. je passerai outre la traditionnelle question "mais vous pensez pas que c’est dangereux l’egypte, en plus avec tous ces attentats ??", histoire d'eviter a louxor et tatra de faire une crise cardiaque de colere 😉 😛 😇
"celui qui a beaucoup voyagé a beaucoup appris, et en a compris plus qu'il ne saurait dire" Si 34, 11
Visiter Al Fayoum ça va pas se faire tout seul, hein...
Pour le reste, moi je ne sais pas ce qui est authentiquement "égyptien" ; Alexet Port Saïd sont autant égyptiens que Aswan, peut être même plus, sauf que beaucoup identifient égyptien et pharaonique - c'est la la cause des malentendus et des légers "heurts" qu'il arrive que nous ayons ici... 😏
Ce que je ne comprends pas, c'est pourquoi il vous faudrait revenir en voyage organisé pour voir la Haute Egypte ; revenez-y dès que possible, et individuellement... Vous aurez déjà une bonne idée du pays, je ne vois pas pourquoi vous vous embarqueriez dans des croisières...
Oh, moi je ne fais pas de crises cardiaques de colère, mais faites attention en traversant la rue...
Oui, mon ami a une voiture, donc normalement on devrait s'en servir comme moyen de deplacement pour etre + libres, mais j'avoue que s'il y a qqchose que j'aime quand je voyage, c'est prendre les transports en commun (je garde de supers souvenirs de moments que j'ai passé dans le train dans certains pays... inoubliable) Mais a priori ça sera quand meme la voiture.
Michel: pourquoi al fayoum "ça va pas se faire tout seul"? (en fait c'est une amie française-egyptienne qui sera aussi au caire en meme temps que moi, et c'est elle qui m'a proposé ça)
En disant "qqchose de + egyptien" j'ai pt etre été maladroite, mais je voulais simplement dire qui soit different de ce que je connais, mais en disant ça ce n'est encore pas tres exact car je sais que le delta sera de toute façon aussi "tres egyptien". Cela dit, pour expliquer ce que je voulais dire je retranscrit un passage du message que Domayeux a ecrit ce matin "Alex a un charme suranné qui fait penser à Cannes ou Nice" " Alexandrie l'occidentale/ Le Caire l'africaine"... mais en fait je pense que vous m'aviez deja comprise 🙂
"celui qui a beaucoup voyagé a beaucoup appris, et en a compris plus qu'il ne saurait dire" Si 34, 11
effectivement pour les étrangers la police est assez collante
par contre voir une partie de l'Egypte sans presque aucun touriste !!! surtout si près du Caire
voir des sites "perdus" sans personne (sauf bien sûr les gardiens et les policiers qui ne voient passer que 2 ou 3 touristes dans l'année !! et encore) après avoir suivi tout un "jeu de piste" pour pouvoir les trouver............. c'est...........
profiter des lacs, du désert, de la campagne et bien sûr des habitants............
que de bons souvenirs (sauf peut être de conduire !! mais ton ami doit avoir l'habitude)
Choisir entre Alexandrie et Louxor, si tu as le temps Louxor, Assouan et Abou Simbel valent je ne sais pas combien de fois plus qu'Alexandrie qui est une ville bruyante, polluée et quelconque et bien évidemment avec beaucoup moins de lieux intéressants que les 3 autres sites qui sont très connus pour leur beauté, et leurs effets grandioses, fantastiques et magiques qu'ils produisent sur chaque visiteur. De toute façon y'a pas photo Alexandrie n'a rien à voir avec Louxor, Assouan etc. En 4 jours il te seras vraiment difficile d'aller dans le Sud, en train du Caire il faut compter un nuit aller et 1 retour, rester 2 jours à Louxor et Assouan c'est impossible. Il est vrai qu'il fait très chaud de juin à septembre dans le sud. L'an dernier à Assouan il faisait 47° avec une chaleur même à l'ombre étouffante et fatiguante. En 4 jours, tu pourrais te reposer sur les plages de la méditerrannée. Car après Le Caire et Alenxandrie tu auras peut-être envie de lieux plus calmes. Vu que ton ami est véhiculé ce sera plus facile.
En synthèse sur Alexandrie, meme si certains points seront peut être en contradiction avec certains autres évoqués plus hauts, Alexandrie est une ville tout à fait egyptienne mais selon les critères de l'egypte moderne. Donc rien de pharaonique, mais pas mal de choses à voir (visiblement certains sont passés un peu vite, ou en surface...) : je ne citerais pas la grande bibliothèque, mais le palais de Montaza + il y a de magnifiques mosquées et d'anciennes villas (démolies petit à petit malheureusement), la citadelle au bout du port, et surtout encore pleins de petits détails qui témoignent de son passé cosmopolite encore récent, surtout dans le vieux Alex vers Mansheya notamment. Il faut savoir que l'été c'est une ville très touristique mais qu'il s'agit d'un tourisme local (les cairotes viennent chercher un peu d'air et la mer, et des gens du golfe). Il y a la mer partout mais pour se baigner il faut mieux sortir d'Alex et aller sur la côte nord. Enfin c'est une ville qui se découvre, mais il faut prendre le temps. En terme de transport, c'est 2 heure de train du Caire ou 3/4h de bus. Côté chaleur il fait chaud aussi à Alex mais moins qu'ailleurs en Egypte car la mer apporte de l'air.
Bon voyage
The Stone Age did not end because they ran out of stones. It ended because they found something else./ Ahmed Yamani, former Saudi Arabian oil minister
Louxor, Assouan et Abou Simbel valent je ne sais pas combien de fois plus qu'Alexandrie ...
On ne peut pas dire les choses de cette façon ; dans le sud il y a des sites pharaoniques, intéressants, mais pas très évocateurs forcément, et très très très touristiques ; et si Aswan est une vraie ville, Luxor n'est qu'un village qui a grossi du fait du tourisme, sans âme, sans culture, sans histoire.
Alex est une vraie ville, pleine de références culturelles, de fantômes de la bibliothèque, de devantures des années 20... Une ville cosmopolite, qui a une âme ; un lieu qui porte la trace des mélanges culturels de l'histoire de l'Egypte. Une ville pour flâner, rêver, regarder la mer, penser au phare et suivre la trace des écrivains. Une ville où on peut rencontrer des gens qui ne sont pas les professionnels du tourisme de masse qui savent gâcher la vie en Haute Egypte.
Attention quand même il y fait peut-être moins chaud, mais plus humide, et plus désagréable. Je préfère 40° à Aswan que 35 à Alex.
Bon, merci à tous pour vos renseignements 🙂, je pense que finalement c'est plus realiste de rester dans le nord (et vos descriptions d’alexandrie mettent l’eau a la bouche 😉) ; et de toute façon quoi que je choisisse ça me fera forcement renoncer a qqchose, donc il faut bien se decider... le sud ça sera pour une autre fois (j'espere)
Est ce qu'il y a des hotels que vous me conseilleriez a alexandrie? (style petit hotel sympa et correct, mais simple - pas le sofitel cecil quoi -)
Autre question, est ce que vous pensez qu'il est necessaire de prendre un traitement anti palu (si on fait donc le caire-alexandrie-port said-ismailia, mais avec une journee dans le fayoum, sachant qu'on ne va pas y passer la nuit)?
"celui qui a beaucoup voyagé a beaucoup appris, et en a compris plus qu'il ne saurait dire" Si 34, 11
Pour les hotels peut-être L'Union ou l'Acropole, tous deux juste derrière le Cecil. Certaines chambres de l'Acropole ont même la vue ; comptez 40/100 Egp.
je peux simplement te parler des hôtels que j'ai pratiqué
sur la corniche à environ 25 minutes à pied de la nouvelle bibliothèque
le Nobel surtout visiter les chambres et ne pas hésiter à demander autre chose - salle de bains correcte - propreté dans les parties communes laisse à désirer -
le Kaoud catégorie au dessus - grandes chambres - grandes sdb - propres - personnel sympa - demander chambres donnant sur la mer
ne pas prendre de traitement anti palu - par contre si tu vas dans le Fayoum prévoir anti-moustique
Merci pour les hôtels; pour le traitement anti-paludéen, j'invente rien, c'est mon médecin qui me l'a conseillé (delta + fayuom =zone 1: peu de risques, mais possible tout de meme). Mais je me suis effectivement rendue compte que pratiquement personne ne le conseillait dans mon cas, meme les centres spé en maladies tropicales...
"celui qui a beaucoup voyagé a beaucoup appris, et en a compris plus qu'il ne saurait dire" Si 34, 11
Hôtels en forfait tout-inclus › Égypte · 6 replies
Nous envisageons de partir en egypte en octobre en couple pour une semaine (nous pensons voyager seuls). Ce sera notre premier voyage en egypte. Le circuit Le…
Nous partons en Egypte à la fin de l'année, nous pensons circuler en train entre Le Caire-Alexandrie et Alexandrie-Louxor, quand vaut-il mieux circuler le…
Je suis en train d'organiser un itinéraire pour notre séjour (mon mari et moi) en Egypte pendant deux semaines en octobre prochain. Nous aurons 15 "vrais"…
Je fais arrive a hurgadda et partir a abu simbel.. et apres partir à Aswan et remonter avec le train jusqua alexandrie... une question -peut-etre bete- si je…
Nous partons pour l'Égypte le 29 décembre prochain et j'aimerais connaître vos coups de coeur dans la restauration pour les villes suivantes: Alexandrie,…
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Connaissez vous l'adresse d'une distillerie de fleurs de roses ds la vallée des roses / kelaa M Gouna. Une distillerie traditionnelle, pas uniquement la boutique à touristes.
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!
Merci aux membres de voyageforum qui nous ont fait part de leurs expériences! Nous avons passé 3 jours formidables à "La Kasbah la Palmeraie" à Skoura. Arrivant de Marrakech (superbe route en décrochant après le col de Tichka via Telouet, Ait-Benhaddou), le séjour à la Palmeraie n'a été que du bonheur: accueil chaleureux de Mohammed et Ghizlane, délicieux petits déjeuners sur la terrasse dominant la palmeraie, (pain cuit au four en terre, crêpes au miel préparées par Ghizlane), repas du soir non moins délicieux et copieux, en famille, autour d'un bon feu. Nous nous sentions comme "chez soi" et avons beaucoup appris sur le mode de vie de la région. Les balades proposées étaient toujours intéressantes et hors des circuits touristiques de masse. De là, le vallée et les Gorges du Dades , la vallée des Amandiers (superbe!), la palmeraie. Il y a des Kasbahs magnifiques dans la région dont celle de nos hôtes. Une autre façon de "visiter" le Maroc!