je viens d'entendre qu'un groupe de touristes avec leurs accompagnateurs Ethiopiens auraient été enlevés et qu'il y aurait des morts ? à la frontière de l'Erythrée ? que s'est il passé ?
voici la fin d el'article :
"L'Afar, d'une superficie d'environ 160 000 km2 et qui s'étend de la mer Rouge aux pentes des Hauts-Plateaux éthiopiens, est considérée comme peu sûre du fait de la présence de groupes armés et de nomades se livrant fréquemment à des actes de banditisme.
En 2004, un touriste français avait disparu sans laisser de traces dans la région. En mars 2007, cinq touristes européens, dont une Française, y avaient encore été enlevés, puis libérés, par un groupe de rebelles. Sur le site Internet du quai d'Orsay, la plus grande partie de la région est en vert."
ça risque fort de changer, à moins que notre diplomatie ne calcule pas le risque de la même façon en Ethiopie et au Mali...
bonjour et merci , c'est ce que j'ai lu aussi !
cette région d'Ethiopie est dangereuse et ceux qui s'y aventurent en connaissent les risques, mais faut il interdire d'y aller ? il y a ici pas mal de posts qui parlent de cet endroit et je crois savoir que les guides Ethiopiens n'aiment pas vraiment s'y rendre . le forcing et l'argent peut être ?
Je voulais juste apporter ma modeste contribution dans la mesure où j'ai moi-même été dans la dépression du Danakil en novembre 2010.
Je savais que ce n'était pas l'endroit le plus sûr au monde et qu'il y avait déjà eu des enlèvements quelques années auparavant.
Cependant, à aucun moment, je ne me suis sentie en danger et n'ai même pensé à un quelconque risque.
C'est vraiment une question de se trouver au mauvais moment au mauvais endroit.
En tous les cas l'Ethiopie reste un de mes plus beaux voyages et je prévoyais justement d'y retourner peut-être dans 3 mois.
Bonne journée à tous.
Bénédicte.
1 an en Australie : http//dokoz.blogspirit.com
2 ans et demi en Egypte.
Je savais que ce n'était pas l'endroit le plus sûr au monde et qu'il y avait déjà eu des enlèvements quelques années auparavant.
Cependant, à aucun moment, je ne me suis sentie en danger et n'ai même pensé à un quelconque risque.
C'est vraiment une question de se trouver au mauvais moment au mauvais endroit.
Je ne suis jamais allé en Ethiopie ni dans les pays limitrophes .
Je voulais juste dire , sur un plan très général , que dans les discussions sur ces sujets ce qui est souvent exprimé c' est le "sentiment de" sécurité ou d' insécurité . Ce n' est pas vraiment le cas ici , mais souvent ce sentiment , cette conviction intime est avancée presque comme un argument , au point que c' en est fascinant de voir le subjectif prendre le dessus à ce point .
Maintenant il est bien vrai que ni les statistiques ni d' éventuels faisceaux d' indices inquiétants ne permettent à coup sûr d' anticiper de tels évènements , mais seulement pressentir que ce n' est pas "l' endroit le plus sûr du monde" 😉 .
En tous les cas , je vous souhaite une bonne journée et très sincèrement bonne chance pour vos futurs déplacements dans la corne de l' Afrique 🙂 .
C'est effectivement un sentiment bien personnel de sécurité que j'exprimais. Je suis assez confiante et positive lors de mes voyages et c'est vrai que ce drame m'interpelle et me fait même réaliser à posteriori que cette zone est dangereuse.
Pour répondre à un post précédent. Effectivement les guides étiopiens non afar ont peur eux-mêmes de s'aventurer dans la zone du Danakil. Je me rappelle que notre chauffeur, qui appartenait à une autre tribu, avait littéralement la trouille ! Notre guide, lui, était Afar mais originaire de Djibouti.
Enfin, j'encourage tout de même les aventuriers à découvrir ce pays qui est juste surprenant et magnifique (de par ses paysages et ses habitants).
Bénédicte :-)
1 an en Australie : http//dokoz.blogspirit.com
2 ans et demi en Egypte.
Mais ce n'est pas ce que j'insinue ! :-)
J'aurais pu parler d'un tout autre pays en employant le terme d'aventurier également.
Aventurier ou voyageur si vous préférez.
Cela dit, faire un tour dans la dépression du Danakil n'est pas le voyage le plus facile que j'ai fait !
Parfois sur les forums, on décortique et analyse trop les messages je trouve... ;-)
1 an en Australie : http//dokoz.blogspirit.com
2 ans et demi en Egypte.
Je suis allé 4 fois dans la dépression du Danakil.
Il faut savoir que les "événements" ont eu lieu près du volcan Erta Ale.
C'est un endroit isolé à 1 jour de 4x4 d'Ahmed Ela et par une piste redoutable. Lieu Idéal pour les razzia des rebelles Érythréens.
Dallol et le lac Asale ne présentent pas du tout le même risque.
Quand au Ethiopiens non Afars, je ne sais pas s'ils ont peur mais comment aller dans le Danakil sans passer par une agence qui emploie des Ethiopiens non Afars.
Ceux qui m'ont accompagné n'ont jamais manifesté la moindre appréhension si ce n'est pour leur véhicule à cause de l'état des pistes (qui s'améliore régulièrement).
Actuellement, l'accès au Danakil est fermé pour une durée indéterminée.
Nous étions dans le Danakil début janvier, et effectivement, nous n'avons jamais ressenti d'insécurité particulière. L'endroit ou semble s'être produit cette attaque (pentes de l'Erta Ale) est à une vingtaine de kms de l'Erythrée, mais rien ne prouve pour l'instant qu'il s'agisse de rebelles érythréens. Quand aux guide non Afar que nous avions, ainsi que les chauffeurs et le cuisinier, ils n'ont jamais manifesté la moindre peur de se rendre dans cette région.
Bien sûr, dans toute expédition dans les régions reculées du monde, il y a toujours une part de risque, mais le terrorisme ou la folie des hommes peuvent frapper n'importe où et n'importe quand.
Il n'en reste pas moins vrai que la région Afar est absolument superbe, et que le tourisme permettait de faire travailler une partie de la population locale. Fallait-il fermer complètement l'accès, le débat reste ouvert.
Cordialement
peu importe l'endroit pourvu que l'horizon soit vaste
Pour ceux que cela intéresse et qui lisent l'anglais (ETOA est l'Ethiopian Tour Operators Association) :
Greetings From ETOA
It has become necessary to disclose this information as some reports are distorting the current situation of our country.
We kindly request you to disseminate this security update to all your clients so as not to cancel any tour.
Ethiopia Security Updates #1 - Jan 21, 2012
Ethiopian Tour Operators Association
1. General Security in the Country:
Ethiopia is one of the safest countries in the world for visitors. The country has enjoyed many years of peace and tranquility with no serious security incidents on any the tourist routes. Particularly since the end of the conflict with Eritrea in 2000, the whole country has remained safe and secure, though the border with Eritrea remains closed. Conflict in neighbouring Somalia has made travel in parts of Ethiopia's Somali Region in the south east of the country inadvisable, however it should be noted that these areas are well outside the normal tourist routes, and no tours are currently being conducted there. Otherwise, the whole rest of the country continues to be extremely safe, and all the tourist attractions accessible.
2. Specific Advice about Afar Region:
In the morning of Tuesday 17 January, 2012, armed gunmen attacked a group of tourists and their Ethiopian escorts and guides, in a remote part of the Afar Region in north eastern Ethiopia, not far from the border with Eritrea, killing five tourists, wounding two others and kidnapping 2 tourists and 2 Ethiopians, taking them across the border into Eritrea. The tourists had gone to see the volcano at Erta Ale, with its permanent lava lake. Our association condemns such acts of terrorism, regardless of who carried it out or why. This terrorist act was clearly aimed at spoiling the image of the country, to convince people that the country is unsafe for visitors and investors, and its timing just before the upcoming African Union Summit in Addis Ababa is not a coincidence. Needless to say, it is potentially very damaging to Ethiopia's tourism sector, and to the hundreds of thousands of its citizens who are directly and indirectly employed in it.
Immediately after the attack, the Ethiopian Defense Forces were deployed throughout the area, and have asserted full control up the border. Conditions have now returned to normal, and the tourist flow has resumed, with visitors from many nationalites continuing on their trips both to Erta Ale and to the nearby amazing mineral rmations at Dallol.
3. Other Tourist Attractions:
Other tourist attractions in the whole of the country have been and remain to be very safe and tourists are experiencing the wonders of this unique country. Thousands of tourists from all over the world enjoyed the colorful Timket Festival peacefully and securely.
There are some reports that some tourist groups are intending to cancel their forthcoming trips to Ethiopia due to security fears. We clearly would like to point out that what happened at the Erta Ale volcano is a one off incident, in a particular area, remote and largely uninhabited, near the border with Eritrea, from where the attackers came.
Ethiopia, with its many tourist sites located throughout the country, is bigger than France and Spain combined, and this incident should not be seen as having implications for other parts of the country.
As has been stated, there is now very tight security throughout the Afar Region to guard against any further incursions, and throughout the country as a whole, visitors can continue with their tours in safety, and to enjoy the unique Ethiopian cultural hospitality.
For any further details or information, please contact
Ethiopian Tour Operators Association
Tel: +251 115 508444/45
Fax: +251 115 508446
P.O.Box: 27548/1000 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
E-mail : ethiotour@ethionet.et , info@ethiopiantourassociation.com
Website : www.ethiopiantourassociation.com
Etant allé il y a juste un an dans cette extraordinaire région du Danakil (lac Karoum/Asale - Dallol - Erta Ale) c'est avec émotion que j'ai appris le drame de ces cinq touristes assassinés. Cela est perturbant de se dire que cela aurait pu être notre groupe. La vie est plus incertaine que le jeu de roulette russe.
Que faire si l'on doit partir désormais visiter cette région ?
L'Association des Agences de Voyage éthiopiennes (message en anglais ci-dessus) se veut rassurante : l'armée verrouille la frontière avec l'Erythrée et tous les voyages en Ethiopie y compris dans cette région sont à nouveau fiablement sécurisés.
C'est probablement vrai pour ce qui concerne les incursions des érythréens, mais on ne sait pas encore qui a attaqué le groupe : érythréens ou nomades Afars ?
Vu que quasiment tout les Afars se balladent avec une kalachnikov à l'épaule et que cette région est vraiment très très pauvre l'incertitude quant à l'identité des agresseurs est permise.
En dernière minute, l'agression aurait été revendiquée par le Front Révolutionnaire Démocratique Uni de l'Afar. Voici quelques extraits de communiqués divers d'aujourd'hui :
" Un groupe insurgé éthiopien a revendiqué l'enlèvement de deux touristes allemands et deux soldats éthiopiens lors d'une embuscade la semaine dernière. Les rebelles ont ajouté que leurs otages étaient en bonne santé et qu'ils était prêt à négocier leur libération.
Les quatre otages faisaient partie d'un groupe de 27 touristes qui a été attaqué mardi dernier dans l'Afar, une région prisée pour la beauté de ses paysages arides dans le nord de l'Ethiopie. Deux Allemands, deux Hongrois et un Autrichien ont péri dans l'embuscade.
«Nous confirmons que ces ressortissants allemands emmenés avec les soldats éthiopiens sont indemnes et en bonne santé», a déclaré le Front révolutionnaire démocratique uni de l'Afar (FRDUA) dans un communiqué daté du 21 janvier.
«Nous pouvons garantir leur libération pacifique via une négociation (...) avec les anciens Afars de la région», a-t-il ajouté. Le FRDUA dit se battre pour l'unification des régions occupées par le peuple Afar, à cheval entre l'Ethiopie, l'Erythrée et Djibouti. On lui impute l'enlèvement de cinq Occidentaux en 2007.
Addis-Abeba a accusé son ennemi juré, l'Erythrée, d'avoir planifié cette attaque. Asmara a démenti toute implication. L'ARDUF, qui nie être soutenu par l'Erythrée, affirme que les touristes ont été tués par l'armée éthiopienne."
"L'ARDUF, qui ne donne aucune indication sur le lieu où sont retenus les deux Allemands, affirme pour sa part que "le gouvernement érythréen n'a rien à avoir avec cet événement".
Le mouvement rebelle, qui affirme lutter contre la marginalisation et les discriminations à l'encontre de la minorité Afar du pays, mène depuis des années des actions de guérilla dans cette zone, où les touristes ne peuvent venir que sous protection armée."
"L'ARDUF, qui mène des actions de guérilla depuis des années dans cette région au nom de la minorité afar, affirme que "(ses) forces ont tué 16 soldats éthiopiens et en ont blessé une douzaine lundi (16 janvier) lors d'affrontements survenus quand les forces éthiopiennes ont ouvert le feu sur une de (ses) patrouilles".
"Nous pouvons confirmer que les ressortissants européens ont été tués par les forces éthiopiennes qui les accompagnaient", affirme le communiqué.
Le même texte ajoute que "les ressortissants européens comme les soldats éthiopiens ont été tués lors des combats avec l'Arduf", sans donner davantage de précision sur les circonstances.
L'affaire est bien opaque quant aux circonstances de l'attaque. Il faudrait que les touristes qui en ont réchappé, maintenant qu'ils sont revenus chez eux, puissent dire ce qu'ils ont vu.
Pour ma part, si je devais partir au Danakil ces prochains jours, en attendant d'y voir plus clair je m'abstiendrai de faire le voyage (même si l'on peut penser qu'aucune prochaine attaque ne devrait intervenir dans les prochains mois puisque les négociations des otages actuels n'a pas encore commencé). C'est trop bête de perdre la vie comme ça.
voilà ce que l'on peut lire sur le site de la diplomatie française :
"
Les déplacements sont formellement déconseillés :
Au Nord du pays, dans l’ensemble de la zone frontalière avec l’Erythrée (régions Tigré et Afar) ;
dans la Dépression des Danakils (régions du Mont Dallol et du volcan Erta Ale) : plusieurs attaques et tentatives d’enlèvement contre des touristes étrangers s’y sont déroulées de 2007 à 2009 et, le 17 janvier 2012, une attaque meurtrière a visé un groupe de touristes européens en dépit du renforcement de la présence des autorités éthiopiennes dans cette région ;
dans les zones frontalières avec la Somalie et, jusqu’à Moyale, avec le Kenya."
la carte est en cours de réalisation
libre à ceux qui veulent quand même y aller, de ne pas en revenir... mais c'est une zone qui n'a rien à envier au Nord Malien ou à la Casamance, en terme d'instabilité, de bandes armées incontrôlées et de risque d'enlèvement. le monnayage d'otages européens est une activité lucrative, universelle et intemporelle, malheureusement.
Merci à tous pour ces infos.
J'attends d'autres nouvelles d'un ami tour opérateur à Addis, que je ne manquerais pas de vous faire partager, si elles peuvent apporter quelques éclaircissements complémentaires.
A+
peu importe l'endroit pourvu que l'horizon soit vaste
L'association éthiopienne des tour operators exagère et sous-estime la gravité de la situation. La région du Danakil est toujours très dangereuse et incontrôlable. Plusieurs ambassades européennes à Addis Abeba ont émis un avertissement aux voyageurs et les agences de voyage qui continuent à envoyer des touristes dans cette région sont soit incompétentes soit irresponsables. A vos risques et périls!
Le texte de l'association s'adresse à ses membres et non aux touristes.
Votre avis est tout à fait respectable mais accuser ceux qui ont un autre avis "d'irresponsables ou incompétentes" est, peut-être, un peu exagéré.
Un ami à moi est allé dans la dépression jusqu'au Erta Ale la semaine dernière.
La protection est maintenant renforcée. Ce ne sont plus des policiers ou des militaires "de base" qui accompagnent les touristes mais des "forces spéciales".
Aller dans le Danakil et plus particulièrement au Erta Ale n'a jamais été une promenade de santé mais il n'y a pas une grande différence de risque entre février 2011 et février 2012.
Alors on y va ou on n'y va pas. J'y suis allé 4 fois. Je ne suis pas suicidaire et l'agence qui m'y emmène n'est ni incompétente, ni irresponsable.
Je partage le point de vue de Cladd sur l'incompétence et l'irresponsabilité de certaines voir de la plupart des agences qui emmènent les touristes dans la zone très chaude (dans tous les sens du terme) du Danakil. Si la condition pour être à peu près en sécurité est d'être entouré de "forces spéciales" (sic!) éthiopiennes alors je dis NON! Il y a assez de magnifiques endroits beaucoup plus sûrs en Ethiopie pour éviter d'aller trainer ses guêtres dans la fournaise de la Corne de l'Afrique, y voir certes un magnifique lac de lave et quelques solfatares, mais en prenant des risques bien inutiles 😠.
Allez dans cette région ressemble de plus en plus à vouloir visiter la zone frontière entre le Mali, le Niger, la Mauritanie et l'Algérie. Une magnifique région, mais où la contemplation du désert et de ses trésors est à un prix trop élevé, en terme de risques, par rapport aux probabilités de finir au mieux otage et au pire avec une balle dans la peau. Sans compter les coûts d'une opération de récupération par d'autres forces spéciales celles-là! Je ne comprends pas le désir un peu morbide qu'ont certains de vouloir à tout prix aller dans des zones réellement à hauts risques alors que tous les signaux d'alerte sont au rouge. Je vais en Ethiopie depuis des années et pense bien connaître les parties du pays où j'ai roulé ma bosse, ainsi que les Ethiopiens et leur mentalité. Mais n'en déplaise à certains qui se targuent de distiller leurs précieux conseils je n'ai pas du tout envie d'aller traîner mes sandales dans certaines zones d'Abyssinie où il est de notoriété publique que les troubles sont permanents. Sans parler des conditions logistiques catastrophiques qui prévalent : pas question d'y être évacué par hélicoptère à la première alerte ou au moindre incident mécanique comme dans nos Alpes. Un gros pépins dans le Danakil, l'Ogaden ou à la frontière kenyanne signifie réellement risquer très vite sa peau. Est-on prêt à prendre pareils risques?
L'Ethiopie a une surface équivalente à 1,67 fois la France. N'y a-t-il pas assez de coins superbes et méconnus autres que la région du Danakil et ses (trop) rares curiosités? Si vous manquez d'imagination pour vous monter un circuit en Ethiopie n'hésitez pas à m'écrire en PM.
tout à fait de votre avis Daniel ! 🙂
et si on y risque sa peau dans ces régions dangereuses, on risque aussi celles de nos hôtes Ethiopiens , qui acceptent de nous y accompagner mais pas forcément de gaieté de coeur !
sans doute pour l'argent ?
Merci pour cette évaluation très équilibrée de la situation. C'étaient en effet les agences de voyage étrangères opérant à Addis qui étaient les premières à réorienter immédiatement le circuit de leurs clients dans d'autres régions d'Ethiopie (superbes elles aussi par ailleurs!)
Je suis rentrée d' Ethiopie avec mon mari et 2 amies Françaises il y a 15 jours.
1mois en 4x4 avec un super éthiopien que beaucoup commençent à connaître : Abel Seymoun. Discret, courtois, efficace, prudent, sympathique. Pas un seul moment nous ne nous sommes sentis en danger. Il nous a écrit " Thank you for this wonderful trip with you, it was wonderful to travel 1 month together". C'est la 1ère fois que c'est un patron qui nous remercie.
Le pays est vraiment sûr à condition d'éviter :
1°) Gambela car attaque de bandits soudanais
2°) Frontière avec l' Erythrée
3°) Est d' Harar vers Djibouti
4°) OGADEN :on y a trouvé du pétrole. Des habitants et un chef de chantier chinois ont été assassinés par des Somaliens.
5°) Of course le Danakil. Il y a 1 siècle, Arthur Rimbaud qui a vécu au Danakil disait déjà : " Les Afars sont des musulmans fanatiques, ils sont à craindre."
Le 15 décembre à Harar, rencontre avec un groupe de randonneurs français ( 50 ans donc en principe pas des écervelés). Et bien si ! Ils partaient camper au Danakil, quelle inconscience.
Abel me disait : " Pour le moment, c'est calme jusqu'au prochain incident". C'était le 15 décembre 2012.
Le 18 Janvier, 22 touristes Européens + scouts armés et militaires sont tombés dans une embuscade ( 5 morts Allemands, Autrichien, 2 blessés dont un Belge et 2 Ethiopiens tués.
Le gouvernement a décidé de fermer ce territoire et accuse l' Erythrée qui nie toute implication.
Mon avis et ceux de plusieurs éthiopiens que j'ai interrogés ( pour l'accident précédent en Février 2012): l'Erythrée n'y est pour rien, l' Ethiopie n'a pas besoin de cela pour faire des incursions militaires quand elle le veut.
Mais si on sait que ce sont des Ethiopiens qui sont responsables, les touristes ne viendront plus.
J'ai étudié la situation pendant 6 mois avant de construire notre programme. Donc je le répète : l' Ethiopie est à l'Afrique ce que la Jordanie est au Moyen-Orient: un pays sûr dans une zone de turbulence. Mais aller dans les zones décrites plus haut est de l'inconscience.
Car au Danakil, il y aura encore et encore des accidents.
Ceci dit, le pays est extraordinaire avec ses paysages époustouflants, les pics fantasmagoriques du Simien, le sourire des enfants et l'accueil de la population.
Mais quand je préparais notre voyage, je frémissais devant l'inconscience de certains routarnautes.
Pour info nous avons 64 et 67 ans et mes amies françaises 66 et 77 ans : il vaut mieux avoir du plomb dans la tête que dans l'arrière train.
J'espère que les baroudeurs se diront que la vie vaut la peine d'être vécue, de grâce n'allez plus dans ces zones à risque.
Que les autres ne fassent pas un amalgame : l' Ethiopie c'est 33 fois la Belgique et 2 fois la France et le pays est sûr, ne vous en privez pas.
merci Mariepaule pour ce compte rendu détaillé et ce complément d'informations , je ne suis pas encore repartie dans ces contrées , mais je prends note pour mon prochain départ !😉
cordialement Aliénor
Merci Mariepaule pour cette contribution qui va totalement dans le sens de celle que j'ai publiée le 15 février 2012.
L'Ethiopie, sous son aspect calme en apparence, est une pétaudière prête à exploser dans la plupart des régions. Le pouvoir totalement entre les mains de la minorité tigréenne a mis en place une structure fédéraliste qui met théoriquement toutes les ethnies sur un pied d'égalité. Mais la réalité est totalement différente, ce qui amène une multitude de petits groupes à prendre les armes pour contrer l'influence oppressante d'Addis Abeba. D'où une augmentation des groupes combattants à la périphérie du pays, mais aussi de plus en plus proche de la capitale. Preuve en est le récent incident près de Bahir Dar qui a fait un mort dans un groupe de rafters autrichiens (voir ici).
On peut donc ajouter la région nord de la capitale à votre liste des zones sensibles...
Le nombre de partis politiques éthiopiens est considérable, la majorité sont dans l'opposition donc clandestins et souvent décentralisé à l'étranger, une minorité est associée à l'EPRDF (le parti au pouvoir), et plusieurs ont des groupes satellites considérés comme terroristes, dont voici une liste non exhaustive :al-Ittihaad al-Islami (AIAI)Eritrean Islamic Jihad Movement (EIJM)Eritrean Liberation Front (ELF)Eritrean People's Liberation FrontEthiopian People's Revolutionary ArmyOgaden National Liberation Front (ONLF)Oromo Liberation Front (OLF)Tigray Peoples Liberation Front (TPLF)Malheureusement la majorité des touristes qui se rendent en Ethiopie ignore complètement la situation politique et sécuritaire qui prévaut dans le pays. Une connaissance même succincte des points "chauds" permettrait de voyager sereinement en ayant cependant conscience que tout n'est pas noir ou blanc dans ce merveilleux pays.
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?