One Month in Northern Madagascar - Thoughts on My Potential Itinerary
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Translated into English.

Original post
AL
Hey everyone!

I’d like to explore the northeast of Madagascar, using bush taxis, boats, and my own two feet.

I already have an ideal itinerary in mind, but I’d love to know if it’s doable at a relaxed pace in one month. The goal, of course, is to avoid being constantly focused on time and days and to travel spontaneously.

I’m aware that the roads are rough and there are a lot of unexpected delays, which isn’t a problem in itself. I just struggle to estimate the *time* it takes to get between stops.

Potential itinerary:

Tana – Sainte Marie Island (4 days) – Maroantsetra (3 days) – Masoala Park (8-day trek?) – Antalaha – Marojejy Park (3 days) – Ambilobe – Nosy Be (5 days) – Tana

The days listed are just rough averages. Cities don’t interest me, and I don’t plan to visit Tana.

I’d really appreciate any info or tips from you all! 😊

Thanks in advance,

Romain
Romain
AS Astaffort Regular ·
Hi everyone, doing everything by bush taxi is pretty risky since night trips are the most dangerous (accidents, highway robbers, and if there’s a breakdown, you’ll be waiting a long time). It’s doable in a month, but I’d recommend taking flights between Tana, Sainte-Marie, Tamatave, and Mananara, then returning from Nosy Be to Tana.

For the rest, it’s tight but possible. For treks in Masoala Park, you’ll need a guide at the very least. If you’re not into cities or overtourism, Nosy Be is far from a must-visit.

Up to you to decide!
jipi
AL Allrom ·
Hey Jipi,

Awesome, thanks so much for the info—I really appreciate it!

I’d like to avoid taking flights as much as possible. I’ll see how it goes on the road and might skip Marojejy Park if needed.

For Nosy Be, you’ve definitely confirmed my doubts. The goal is just to dive, freedive, and meet the team from the Madagascar Whale Shark Project NGO :)

Have a great day!
Romain
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Nosy Be isn’t that bad, and there are plenty of ways to avoid the most crowded spots (basically Andilana and Ambatoloaka/Madirokely). You can also choose to stay on one of the satellite islands instead of Nosy Be itself. For example, Nosy Komba, which actually has a good dive club. It’s been a while since I stayed there, but I remember a beachfront bungalow in Ampangorina, just 50 m from the club. Not really overrun with tourists.

There are also accommodation options on Nosy Sakatia.

I get not wanting to be in a city, but there are still a few cool things even in Tana or Hell-Ville that have preserved old buildings/neighborhoods. Some of them tell Madagascar’s history (like the royal palace near Tana or the Queen’s Palace...). If you’re into history, Malagasy culture, or architecture, it’s worth the detour.

Great dives are also possible in Diego, especially around Nosy Hara.
AL Allrom ·
Hello Din,

Nice, thanks for your relevant feedback!

Good to know people are centralized ;) Nosy Komba does seem more isolated and wild. Makes me want to be there already.

Have a great day
Romain
TO Tongasoa31 ·
That’s a pretty ambitious itinerary in my humble opinion. I didn’t cover that much even after spending two years in Madagascar 😄

I mean, Madagascar isn’t Italy. Getting from one place to another is complicated.

For example, spending only 4 days in Sainte Marie seems surprising to me...

Then how do you plan to get from Sainte Marie to Maroantsetra?

And from Maroantsetra to Antalaha?

All of this takes several days...

The rest of the itinerary is doable, but it’s a lot of travel and very brave. Five days in Nosy Bé is also meh.

I think you should skip Nosy Bé entirely and stick to Sainte Marie - Mananara - Maroantsetra - Masoala - Antalaha - Marojejy - Sambava. Then fly back from Sambava to Tana. That’s more than enough for one month.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, In your planned route, the only places I know are Île Sainte-Marie, Maroantsetra, Antalaha, and Sambava. I did this over 30 years ago. Back then, the *taxi-bé* (shared minibuses) ran all the way to Maroantsetra without any issues, but it took at least 2 or 3 days. After that, I walked from Maroantsetra to Antalaha over 3 or 4 days—no guide needed, and we could sleep (very basic conditions) in the villages. It’s totally doable if you’re up for a bit of adventure! Just be warned: it’s often muddy and rainy. I caught another *taxi-bé* from Antalaha to Sambava, then flew back to Tana (Antananarivo). Between Toamasina (Tamatave) and Île Sainte-Marie, I stopped for a few days in Foulpointe—it was a nice spot (there were basic bungalows run by a Chinese guy we called E.T.). After that, I stopped in Fenerive-Est before taking a boat from somewhere like Soanierana Ivongo... I can’t remember the exact name. On Île Sainte-Marie, I have great memories of *"L’Hôtel Le Rocher chez Emilienne"* in Maromandia. Have a great trip!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
OU Ours81 Regular ·
..... Parc Marojejy ....

Hi! Accessible by bush taxi from Sambava, but there’s a problem on the way back—you need to arrange a driver for the return trip because when bush taxis pass by the Marojejy office, they’re already packed and won’t take more passengers. (I’ve done the Sambava-Andapa round trip 4 times, including once by motorbike, which lets you take some great photos.) Photo of the Lokoho River and Mount Marojejy—pronounce it "mar-o-gayj" roughly.
TO Tongasoa31 ·
In my opinion, Marojejy isn’t too hard to fit in and organize last-minute—it’s totally doable. Plan for 3 full days to complete the full round-trip trek to the summit. I found the trail pretty tough with the humidity and heat—not exactly a walk in the park.

On the other hand, the trek in Masoala is trickier to organize and will take a bit more prep time.

Veloma
JA Jasrymn Veteran ·
Hi there! It's a bit tight in 1 month—2 would be better! But it's doable... The trickiest part is definitely between Sainte Marie and Antalaha, since there’s no road. I’ve done it different ways: on foot, by boat. You can find a pirogue between Sainte Marie and the point, or Manompana, then continue on foot or by hitchhiking to Maroantsetra. From there, it’s either on foot or by boat. The issue with boats is they don’t run every day, and you might get stuck for a week. The shortest route is the direct trip to Antalaha in 3 days, usually with a guide—though locals cross without one, so you can join them. After that, it’s smooth sailing. In Nosy Be, the highlight is definitely Nosy Komba, and don’t miss the turtles on Sakatia. If you’re tired of the road, you can always take a flight to Tana.
Jacques. Dix ans de bourlingues à Madagascar à voir sur : https://www.myatlas.com/jasrymn

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