South America · Peru

This quick summary of our trip follows a project I posted on VF back in March 2016. I can answer more specific questions, but here I’m highlighting the points that seem most important. Generally, we started our days early (~7 AM or even earlier), had lunch on the go—often in the street—and dinner at somewhat rustic restaurants (< 100 Bs for two). The hotels (unbooked except for our arrival day in La Paz) had so-called "matrimonial" rooms with private bathrooms, usually costing 150–200 Bs or less.

We had a few cold sweats right off the bat: our debit cards only worked at the last ATM (out of 12!) at the airport… and the next day, our flight to Rurrenabaque was grounded, leaving us stranded for a day. We found decent lodging at Hotel Avenida. The following morning, our plane was finally fixed and crossed the Cordillera without issue. Our stay (5 days / 4 nights in the jungle & pampa) with Mashaquipe was great (our guide Domingo played a big part in that). Very interesting and a reliable agency. We saw quite a few animals, though spotting them in the jungle is tricky. In the savanna, though, it’s easier, and Mashaquipe seems to be one of the few agencies with a site in the pampa (near Santa Rosa).

We flew back to La Paz that evening and got lucky—within an hour, we caught a flight to Santa Cruz. The next morning, our first encounter with bus stations: Santa Cruz’s is huge, and we got a little lost. But we found a bus to San José. We visited the church in the late morning, then headed to the bus station, where schedules seemed random and buses only left in the late afternoon at best. We decided to walk to the outskirts of town toward San Rafael and try hitchhiking. It worked—every (rare) vehicle stopped, and we hopped into the first one heading to San Rafael. When we arrived, we gave the driver half the bus fare (~60 Bs). The next morning, we visited the church early and positioned ourselves at the village exit. A pickup truck quickly picked us up and took us to San Miguel (for free). Then, the same thing happened on the way to San Ignacio, but this time it was a *collectivo* that stopped. We arrived in San Ignacio in the early afternoon, but it was Saturday, and the church was closed. It was supposed to open… but never did. Since the *flota* bus left for Concepción around 7 PM, we took it without getting to visit. The next day, we toured the church and attended mass (++) with a choir and musicians. Then, we took a bus to San Javier, visited the church, and caught a *flota* back to Santa Cruz that evening. It might seem a little rushed, but we were lucky. Verdict: the churches are hidden gems in this somewhat off-the-beaten-path province (almost no tourists). We loved the last two the most, but the others were great too.

The next morning, we flew to Sucre, a beautiful city (though I didn’t connect with it), especially compared to the others, at a moderate altitude for the country… except for the central market, the Museum of Indigenous Art, and the San Felipe Neri convent. By chance, we ended up at *Le Petit Parisien*, a café two steps from the main square (65 c. estudiante). Christian, the owner, is originally from Paris and serves French food. His wife, Anna, is Bolivian and organizes visits to the Jal’qa community west of Sucre. You have to enjoy walking (~35 km in 2 days) and be okay with a *camione* (truck) ride and rustic lodging. We said yes for the next morning (cost: 600 Bs for two). A great memory, especially our night with a Quechua family who had just harvested corn… and the otherworldly landscapes.

Then, an overnight bus to Tupiza, where we checked out agencies for a 4-day loop through Sud Lípez and the salt flats, returning to Uyuni. We were really impressed by *Granero del Oro* (though there were only two of us), but we ultimately went with *Tupiza Tours*, the biggest agency, which had other clients so we could leave as a group of four (it was late June, and there weren’t many tourists yet; cost: 2,600 Bs for two). No regrets—this agency seemed solid, with a well-maintained vehicle and a serious driver (Freddy) who stopped whenever we asked. With our +5°C sleeping bags, we weren’t cold since the hotels (which the Bolivians call *basico*) provided blankets. The landscapes were mind-blowing in color, variety, and scale… even though the weather was pretty variable. We saw quite a few vicuñas.

In Uyuni, we took an overnight bus to La Paz, then another to Puno less than two hours later, arriving in the afternoon. That gave us time to head to the port to find lodging on Amantani. We avoided the street vendors and found an office run by locals from the island. We left the next day with an Italian couple and stayed two nights in Occopampa with a host family. Instead of returning via Taquile, we took a boat to Chifrón, then a bus to Juliaca, and from there to Cusco. The island was nice, and we did a lot of walking. At one point, we ran into a horde of tourists (and the second night, there was a dance with quite a few tourists… but also some locals, though I didn’t connect much). I got the impression the northern part of the island is less touristy… but you don’t get to choose your lodging.

In Cusco, we stayed at Suecia 2 (almost quiet, since it’s on the edge of the happy-hour bars and nightclubs) and across from the excellent restaurant *Victor Victoria*. On Sunday, we took a *collectivo* to the Chinchero market. It was touristy but still fun. There were great textile deals, but we were broke and couldn’t find an ATM. Some regrets… We met two young Spanish women and shared a taxi to Moray (we didn’t visit because you need the *boleto turistico*) and Salinas. The taxi dropped us off for an hour—it was nice, especially in the late afternoon. The next day, though, we were really disappointed by Pisac, which felt 100% touristy and New Age… we’d recommend avoiding it. On the way back from Pisac, we asked the bus to stop at Sacsayhuamán, which we explored a bit without a ticket before walking back down to Cusco. The city itself was nice but nothing extraordinary. We only got the *boleto religioso* (cathedral + Iglesia San Blas + San Cristóbal). The Inca Museum and Qorikancha were highlights.

We’d booked the Lares Trek + Machu Picchu (MP) over 4 days with *Sam Travel Perú*. There were five couples and two guides (Eddy & Julian). Great organization, great guides, and the food… no complaints. The landscapes were stunning… and no altitude issues (we’d acclimatized well with Lípez and Lake Titicaca) or breathing problems since we were in shape. That wasn’t the case for the other participants, but it wasn’t a problem since we had two guides, and on the last day, we split into two groups. We stopped in Aguas Calientes before Lares, then took a car and train to Aguas Calientes. On the guide’s advice, we decided to line up at 4:30 AM (there were already hundreds of people) for the bus to MP. At the top, Eddy guided us until 9 AM, then we explored on our own. At first, it was peaceful with clouds clinging to the peaks, but then it got crowded and hot. We escaped with two other couples to climb Wayna Picchu (it’s steep, but with dry weather, no problem). Still, I’d recommend being in shape for the trek and the climb to WP to really enjoy it. We returned to Cusco in the late afternoon, and the next morning, we flew (booked in advance) to La Paz, where we explored a bit (cable car, San Francisco, Calle Jaén…).

Hi there, I’m planning to do the full Cañón del Colca trek in 3 stages (Cabanaconde/Llahuar/Sagalle/San Juan/Cabanaconde), if the weather allows it, of course. Are trekking poles allowed in Peru? I don’t want to carry them unnecessarily. (I don’t have rubber tips since they’re trail-running poles.) Do you have any tips on accommodations? Should I book in advance, or is there always somewhere to stay? (I’ll be there at the end of October or in November.) All advice and tips are welcome! Thanks

hi, I'm planning a trip to Peru and Bolivia soon. I'm looking for a local travel agency. Does anyone know of one? Thanks

Hi everyone, Since the safety reports on Peru are sometimes a bit outdated, I got curious and checked the Ministry of Foreign Affairs website for travel advice. It’s honestly pretty worrying!! Here’s the link: https://www.diplomatie.gouv.fr/fr/conseils-aux-voyageurs/conseils-par-pays/perou/

Among other things, they don’t just mention fake taxis that rob you or express kidnappings (especially in Arequipa), but also drugs that can be slipped into your drink if left unattended, "with the risk of scopolamine being added."

They’ve marked the Cuzco region as a red zone (formally avoid!!) and central Lima as an orange zone, "to avoid after dark."

What do those who’ve been there recently think?

Hi everyone, The years go by and Machu Picchu has been on our "to-do list" for a few decades now... But Peru is, fortunately, so much more than this legendary site...

We went as a couple for a 15-day trip. For the first time, we delegated the logistics to a local agency (Paprika in Arequipa). This agency offers "classic" small-group tours and the option to do it privately, which we chose.

No complaints—they were perfect for organizing transportation, hotels, and French-speaking guides.

The "classic" southern Peru loop is: Lima, Paracas, Nazca, Arequipa, Colca, Titicaca, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Cusco. Nothing very original... but why get creative when there’s already so much beauty to discover?

We opted for a shorter loop, skipping Paracas/Nazca because the small planes in Nazca weren’t a unanimous hit, and it saved us dozens of hours on the bus. But we added a stop at Palccoyo (the rainbow mountains) between Titicaca and Cusco.

It might seem like a shame, but we don’t regret it at all.

Here we go...

It’s been almost a month since we got back, and my head is still over there... Just like every time... For my own sake, I know travel journals are useful for travelers planning a trip to a country. But selfishly, they’re also helpful for me—to put the final stone on each journey and revisit it from time to time, just for the memories...

So, this trip won’t be any different, and I invite you to follow along on our Andean adventure, from Lima to the Southern Lipez, from December 16, 2016, to January 14, 2017. It’s a chronological journal because I don’t know how to approach it any other way. It doesn’t hold any absolute truths—just my experiences and feelings, which are obviously personal and not objective!

But if it inspires you to visit these magical countries (and I assume you’re already interested if you’re here) or gives you a couple of tips, then I’ll consider it a win!

So, let’s hit the road for the land of wide-open spaces!

Hi there!

I’ll be in Peru in mid-May and I’d really love to do the Huayhuash trek. Back in France, I’ve done a few treks independently with my own gear, but since I travel light and solo, I think it’d be more interesting—and safer—for me to do this trek with a guide who can also provide equipment.

Does anyone have a recommendation for a guide and/or trekking agency, as well as an idea of the price for a 10- or 12-day trek?

Thanks so much! :)!!

Thanks for the replies. I'm looking for a bus that takes me from Colca Canyon to Arequipa—I can’t find anything online (I only see Chivay to Puno, but I’m doing it the other way around).

hi there (mid-August 2025), I’m arriving in COLCA CANYON from PUNO by bus to stay for 3 days I’ll be on foot what’s the best place to sleep since I’ll be hiking then I’m taking a bus to AREQUIPA but I can’t find any info about it only thing I’ve seen is that I’ll find a collectivo in CHIVAY can you give me some tips to organize this as smoothly as possible thanks ISABELLE

hi everyone, and so glad Voyage Forum is back up and running! my partner and I, along with some friends, are planning a trip to Peru in May 2025. I’ve got some questions about the Machu Picchu excursion. we’re in our 60s and 70s, and while we’re pretty fit at European altitudes, I’m a bit worried about hiking above 2,500 m! that’s why we didn’t hesitate to skip the 4-day Inca Trail trek. but I’m wondering about the 2-day "short Inca Trail" offered by some agencies—basically one day of hiking with visits to a few sites, and the second day, the classic Machu Picchu visit. has anyone done it? do you need to be in top shape? thanks for your tips

Hi there,

I’ll be traveling to Peru in August 2025. Unfortunately, I only have 12 days to visit this amazing country. I’m torn between doing a fast-paced trip where I see every sight but don’t really soak it all in, or going for a lighter itinerary that lets me enjoy the moment more.

Right now, I’ve narrowed it down to three options and I’d love to hear your thoughts on which one to pick.

Option 1 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 15, 2025 Flight Lima – Cusco Visit Cusco Stay in Cusco August 16, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 17, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 18, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 19, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 21, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Bus Lima to Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 22, 2025 Visit Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 23, 2025 Visit Paracas Stay in Huacachina August 24, 2025 Bus Huacachina – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Option 2 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus August 16, 2025 Visit Arequipa Stay in Arequipa August 17, 2025 Colca Canyon Transfer Arequipa – Puno Stay in Puno August 18, 2025 Visit Lake Titicaca Bus Puno – Cusco (7:00 AM) Overnight bus August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 22, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 23, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Option 3 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Stay in Huacachina August 16, 2025 Visit Paracas Stay in Paracas August 17, 2025 Bus Paracas – Lima Flight Lima – Cusco Stay in Cusco August 18, 2025 Visit Cusco Stay in Cusco August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Stay in Cusco August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Ollantaytambo August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Stay in Ollantaytambo August 22, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Stay in Cusco August 23, 2025 Visit Rainbow Mountains Stay in Cusco August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Stay in Lima August 25, 2025 Flight Lima – Canada

Hey hey!

We’re on a 3-month trip through Peru, Brazil, Paraguay, and then southern Brazil.

We’ve been in Ollantaytambo for 2 days now, right at the gateway to Machu Picchu...

Here are a few tips:

To get to Aguas Calientes, there are 2 options: one by train for at least $70 one-way (2h), with lots of departures throughout the day.

The other is by bus—departure in the morning, check with local agencies starting at 10 € (40 soles). The bus ends at Hidroeléctrica, where you’ll have to walk the last 2 hours... We went with option 2 ;) Leaving tomorrow morning.

PS: There’s a great little "bakery" with good prices near the market (croissants, pizza, bread, etc.).

In the Sacred Valley, I’d recommend spending a night or two in Maras—a quiet village where a nice walk will take you to Moray, then another to the Salineras...

Another really cool route to take with stops for pisco (from San Clemente, where colectivos leave) to Cusco, along stunning high-altitude roads... From Pisco to Ayacucho: 5h, then from Ayacucho to Andahuaylas: 5h. Super big local market on Saturdays/Sundays.

Plan for 6-7 hours to finish the trip to Cusco...

Happy travels! !

Hi everyone, Apart from the road between Cusco and Hidroelectrica—which is tricky but doable—is there a safe place (like a campsite?) to sleep at Hidroelectrica and visit Machu Picchu the next day? Thanks!

Hi there,

We’re heading to Peru from February 3 to 27, 2025. From the 12th to the 23rd, we’ll be traveling through high-altitude areas above 4,000 meters between Arequipa and Puno, Puno and Cuzco, and then Cuzco and Nazca. My question is whether we might encounter snowy roads, and if so, whether rental vehicles (a standard tourist car rented at Lima airport) come equipped with chains or anything similar. Thanks in advance! Eric

Hi there,

Next September (2025), we’re heading to Latin America as a family for a year, and we’re thinking of buying a vehicle (car, van, or camper) in Punta Arenas, Chile, to sell it later in Lima, Peru. While I don’t think buying in Punta Arenas will be too complicated, I’m looking for info on border-crossing requirements (Chile-Argentina / Argentina-Chile / Chile-Bolivia, and Bolivia-Peru), as well as the steps and conditions for selling the vehicle in Peru.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi there, I’m reaching out to get your thoughts on an upcoming trip to Peru. The issue is that I unfortunately don’t have enough time to do everything. I’ve put together four itineraries and would love your feedback on them.

Option 1 Option 2 Option 3 Option 4 Day 1 August 14, 2025 Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima – Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima - Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima - Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Flight Canada – Lima Bus Lima - Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Day 2 August 15, 2025 Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus accommodation Visit Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Visit Huacachina Accommodation Huacachina Visit Huacachina Bus Huacachina – Arequipa Overnight bus accommodation Day 3 August 16, 2025 Visit Arequipa Accommodation Arequipa Bus Huacachina – Lima Flight Lima – Juliaca Accommodation Puno Visit Paracas Accommodation Paracas Visit Arequipa Accommodation Arequipa Day 4 August 17, 2025 Colca Canyon excursion Transfer Arequipa-Puno Accommodation Puno Visit Lake Titicaca Accommodation Puno Bus Paracas – Lima Flight Lima - Cusco Colca Canyon excursion Accommodation Arequipa Day 5 August 18, 2025 Visit Lake Titicaca Bus Puno-Cusco (7:00 AM) Overnight bus accommodation Bus Puno - Cusco Visit Cusco Accommodation Cusco Visit Cusco Accommodation Cusco Flight Arequipa – Cusco Visit Cusco Accommodation Cusco Day 6 August 19, 2025 Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Visit Humantay Lake Accommodation Cusco Day 7 August 20, 2025 Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Ollantaytambo Day 8 August 21, 2025 Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Visit Machu Picchu Accommodation Ollantaytambo Day 9 August 22, 2025 Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Bus Ollantaytambo - Cusco Visit Sacred Valley Accommodation Cusco Day 10 August 23, 2025 Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Bus Cusco – Vinicunca Visit Rainbow Mountain Accommodation Cusco Day 11 August 24, 2025 Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Flight Cusco – Lima Visit Lima Accommodation Lima Day 12 August 25, 2025 Flight Lima - Canada Flight Lima - Canada Flight Lima - Canada Flight Lima - Canada

I’m planning to take Air France from Paris to Trujillo with my 2 bikes in boxes. I have a layover in Lima and a change to LATAM Airlines for Trujillo. On the way back, it’s Santa Cruz in Bolivia via Lima (LATAM Airlines) and then Air France to Paris. During the layovers in Lima, do I need to collect my luggage and the bike boxes and re-check them for the second flight? It’s really hard to get through to Air France for this kind of question.

hi everyone, I’m a bit confused: we (3 adults in our sixties) are planning to do the Inca Trail to reach Machu Picchu on foot. Many websites say that walking poles are banned, but the agency we’ve chosen to go with offers pole rental! What’s the deal? Are the allowed poles the ones with a tip protector? Thanks for your answers! Alain

Hello,

As part of a 10-month trip to explore and discover South America, we’d like to start our journey in northern Brazil since the timing is perfect for traveling up the Amazon. We’re traveling as a family of five with three kids aged 6, 9, and 18.

Our plan is to leave from Manaus and reach Yurimaguas in Peru via the Amazon, mostly by boat. Since we have plenty of time, we can take breaks to explore the different stops along the way that are worth it. The idea is to eventually head to Colombia via Ecuador later on.

So far, we’ve identified the following stops: - Manaus - Tabatinga - Iquitos - Sumiria Reserve (we’d like to stay there for a week) - Yurimaguas.

We’re thinking of traveling in a cabin/hammock for the longest leg (Manaus to Tabatinga) and just in hammocks for the shorter trips (max 3 days).

I have a few questions: 1. From a safety perspective, is the area we’re planning to cross safe, considering we’ll be with our three kids, the youngest being 6? 2. Isn’t this route a bit too ambitious for our kids? 3. We’re considering adding the Santarém/Manaus leg. Is Santarém a city worth adding to the itinerary? 4. Among the planned stops, which ones deserve a special visit? 5. Do the boat trips always include meals on board, or should we be careful when booking? 6. What would be a reasonable estimate for the duration of this trip to fully enjoy it?

I’ve read quite a bit—like trying to board early to get the best hammock spots, and that travel times can vary depending on currents, stops, and potential technical issues. But that’s not a problem since we have all the time in the world! :)

We’d love to hear from anyone who’s traveled in this area before!

Thanks so much in advance for your help in planning our trip.

Rémy, Céline, Antoine, Sacha, and Paul

Hi, Does anyone know a good local agency in Peru? I’d like to do the Ausangate trek and Machu Picchu. Thanks in advance for your replies. Didier