Puglia in August (Locorontondo)
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
DP
Hi there,

We’re heading to Puglia from July 30 to August 31, 2020. I’ve booked a rental with a pool in Locorontondo.

But the more I read guides and forums, the more I regret booking the flight to Bari. I can still cancel the other reservations, but I’d face penalties for the flight.

It’s packed, avoid August at all costs—traffic jams, stifling heat, price hikes… I’m really having second thoughts. Our goal isn’t necessarily to hit the beach. I’m thinking we’ll get up early to go where we want and head back during the hottest part of the day.

Is it *that* bad? Thanks for sharing your experiences.
PA PapJ59 Globetrotter ·
Hello,

We’re heading to Puglia from July 30 to August 31, 2020. I booked a rental with a pool in Locorontondo.

The more I read guides and forums, the more I regret booking the flight to Bari. I can still cancel the other reservations, but I’d face penalties for the flight.

It’s crowded, avoid August at all costs—traffic jams, stifling heat, price hikes… Basically, I’m having second thoughts. Our goal isn’t necessarily to hit the beach. I’m thinking we’ll get up early to go where we want and head back during the hottest part of the day.

Is it *that* bad? Thanks for sharing your experiences.

???

Does this mean you "thought Puglia," booked flights… but didn’t research ANYTHING beforehand? Weather, sights, crowds, costs—seems a bit reckless.

So own it, stop reading forums, grab the excellent *Michelin Green Guide Puglia* for 19.50 €, and plan your days to visit *chill* at the best times.

You must’ve noticed Bari’s at the same latitude as southern Spain—and August isn’t Norway!

See you around,
4 fois en Camping-car: Parcs US - NewMex - Yellowst - Louisiane. http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2009/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2011/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2012/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2013/ Andalousie, Bretagne, Corse, Provence, Sicile, Toscane, villes d'Italie. sur : http://blogs.crespel.me/
FA Fabiepot Regular ·
Hi there, of course at this time of year, European countries are very busy, and Puglia has become particularly touristy in recent years. Unless you have school constraints, it's always better to travel to these regions outside the crowds, meaning before July and after August. I visited Puglia last September—except in the Gargano area, there were still tourists, but fewer than in July and August, of course. I rented a car and was able to park fairly easily without paying, except once in Lecce. The towns in Puglia are old, so they're not really car-friendly. And the beaches, like in many places in Italy, are private and therefore paid during July and August. They're not really relaxing either, since you also pay to have music on the beach on top of the umbrella, sunbed, etc. In September, I was able to enjoy the beaches without music and without paying. That said, it depends on what you're looking for. I stayed near Locorotondo, 4 km from the city center, in a magnificent olive grove. It was the starting point for visiting the surrounding areas. Locorontodo is a pretty little old town, but you can visit it very quickly. Puglia is still really great to see because it has a very rich heritage. From Locoronto, you should go to Basilicata to visit Matera—it's a must-see and only an hour and a half drive away. I stayed for 3 weeks in 3 different accommodations: in Puglia, in the Gargano, then the Bari region, and the last week at the tip of the heel. I had planned itineraries from these three regions and was able to visit at my own pace without stress. Don't hesitate to ask if you have any other questions.
fabienne
AS Asiawithlove Regular ·
Hi there,

I asked myself the same question last year because I’d read that August isn’t ideal. In the end, I didn’t go and I regretted it... proportionally, there are more people in the south of France or Spain. There are crowds everywhere in August... It’ll be hot, that’s for sure, and it’ll be busy, but in a month you’ve got time to take it easy :) You’ve got a pool and you’re not right by the sea, so I think it’s doable. I’m heading there in June and I can’t wait.

Have a great trip!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/nathalie_miric/
DO Dominike Veteran ·
Hi Delphine,

Feeling disappointed before you’ve even left? Such a shame :(😊!!!!

We had a wonderful 19-night trip from Bari back to Bari in August-September 2018...

We had absolutely no issues traveling there in August-September 2018, even though we’re not exactly spring chickens anymore …. We’re used to traveling in Italy, and there were often even fewer tourists there than in other regions of Italy during August-September….

We’re definitely not "beach relaxation" types, and we had some amazing visits, lovely leisurely walks all day long, in some really beautiful places during this trip... Not just early in the morning (Phew)!!!!

Now, booking a whole month in Locorotondo seems like a lot to me, unless you’re planning to spend a lot of time at your accommodation or drive a lot to visit Puglia, Salento, etc., from a single base in Locorotondo...

In my opinion, it might’ve been smarter to split your many nights between Bari, the stunning Matera, the area around Locorotondo, and Salento...

You probably should’ve looked into things to do, how much time to dedicate to visits, the weather, etc., in Locorotondo before booking your flights to Bari and a whole month’s rental with a pool just in Locorotondo (?) ... Just my two cents, but now you’ve got feedback 😎….

Personally, for us: everything was great with our 19-night trip there, and we did: 6 nights and 5 full days near Bari to comfortably visit everything north of Bari up to Barletta (since Gargano wasn’t for me due to my fear of roads), then 1 night in Matera (I really should’ve planned 2 nights there), then 4 nights in Cisternino (very close to Locorotondo), and finally 7 nights in Scorrano... One last night in Bitonto since it’s so close to Bari airport….

We simply booked accommodations, all with air conditioning, following Mathilde’s great advice…. It *is* hot there in August and September, but it’s not humid or unbearable heat, and we managed quite a few visits by the sea—there’s a breeze there, it’s really doable, at least for us 😎... We just liked cooling down our room a bit in the evening before going to sleep for a good night’s rest….

PS: We never hit a single traffic jam during our entire trip, nowhere …. Almost always found free parking (white lines), and the cost of a drink was much lower there than in Florence, Rome, Pisa, Naples, Bologna, etc... No tolls to pay either (or very few—I don’t even remember paying one)...

Our Puglia + Matera + Salento vacation cost us much less for the same number of nights than in other parts of Italy, even though our accommodations were really great and I recommend them whenever I can (in Bari, Matera, Cisternino, Scorrano). But we didn’t book a place with a pool—just two independent single-story villas and two great apartments with large terraces, etc., so visits were easy and nearby :) ... The apartment in Bitonto was very simple, but even though I wouldn’t recommend it to other travelers (it was quite cluttered, belonging to a very elderly lady), it worked out fine for us for one night... In our opinion, she left her home when the booking was confirmed, so we had no regrets about renting her place for just one night if it made her daily life a little better—she was so thoughtful. The apartment was also well-located for us, within walking distance of the train station and Bitonto’s center...

Go without fear! But maybe do a bit more research next time 😊 before booking your flights and vacation rental—it’ll save you unnecessary stress 😎.

Have a great rest of 2020! Dominike
DP Dpri ·
Hi there, Thanks for all your replies. We really don’t have a choice but to travel only during school holidays since we have two middle-schoolers. And for August, no choice either because of my husband’s work. I honestly didn’t look into the summer crowds in Puglia enough. We went to Portugal last year and had no one on the roads between Lisbon and Porto, so I didn’t pay as much attention to that. We’ll definitely avoid the beach since we have a pool, and we’ll see how it goes. Anyway, I’ll share my experience when I get back in this thread.
FA Fabiepot Regular ·
Since you can't cancel your flight tickets, maybe you can change your single accommodation in Locorontodo to several stays so you can make the most of the different regions to see and the beautiful coastline, and avoid long car journeys. You can reach the Gargano area via a more direct route because the mountain road is indeed very long and winding. I can recommend the hotel where I stayed—you can book directly. In September, I paid 50 € per day for half-board, including parking (valet), a sun lounger, and a parasol on the private beach right by the hotel. The sandy beach is gorgeous near a lovely marina. From there, there are lots of sites to see, and the hilltop towns like Vieste are stunning.
fabienne
DP Dpri ·
Oops, I made a typo: we're leaving on 13/08, not the 31st. We're away for two weeks total, with the first night in Bari. For the rest, I’ve planned to go as far as Matera and Lecce, and we’ll explore the surrounding areas. Thanks
JO Jostretto Regular ·
Hi there, we went to Puglia in August—yes, it’s hot, yes, the vast majority of Italians take their holidays in this region... You’ve got to get up early like in any hot country and take a siesta. Shops close in the afternoon and only reopen at 6 PM. It’s not unusual to see grandmas and kids out at 2 AM—we never felt unsafe at all. We went all the way down to Leuca, which was easy. We didn’t go near the beaches—too crowded. The inland areas are really beautiful and peaceful. Lecce is stunning; we stayed there for a month! It’s a fairly big city and quite expensive, so head to the villages further south—just as interesting, especially if you like backroads and figs... Lots of olive trees are dying at the moment—some are centuries old. I find that really sad. Happy travels...
DP Dpri ·
Thanks so much for this account. Our rental is right in the middle of the olive groves, but I’ve heard that these trees are dying in Greece, Italy, and Spain.
JO Jostretto Regular ·
We set off from Gallipoli... a very, very touristy town in the summer. We went there at Easter! The problem is parking—there are lots of cameras in Italy, so be really careful. Watch out for ZTLs. Do you have a rental car? Stick to paid parking lots. We had a car registered in Lecce that a friend lent us—it was way more relaxed. 😏
DP Dpri ·
Yeah, we rented a car—otherwise it’s just not doable...
JO Jostretto Regular ·
Rent a really small car—that’s my advice. The streets in the villages are super narrow! :-)
DP Dpri ·
We have the Fiat 500 L. So it's not big, but it's the minimum for 4.
DO Dominike Veteran ·
Ah, that seems much more doable than a whole month in the same place—like a whole month in Locorotondo... That did seem really odd to me. Don’t worry: it’s a beautiful region with plenty of great sights to see...

Happy planning! Dominike
DP Dpri ·
Thanks so much. I’ll report back.
JO Jostretto Regular ·
Hi, it's already quite busy for the small villages in Puglia, and also with the traffic.
MI Mick013 Veteran ·
Personally, I wouldn’t dream of wandering down an old alley, whether in Locorotondo or Rocamadour—and there are no more alleys in Puglia than in French villages.

Bari (latitude 41°06) isn’t at the same latitude as southern Spain, as someone wrote; it’s actually further north than Madrid (40°40), which is in central Spain. Temperatures in Puglia are the same as in Provence.

As for crowds in Italy, I have to laugh. These past summers, I’ve been to Vienna, Innsbruck, Salzburg, Prague, and Kraków—those places are just as packed as Venice, and Puglia? It’s nothing like Venice.

My trip through Puglia covers all the spots rated 1, 2, or 3 stars in the Michelin guide. http://recitdemesvoyages.over-blog.com/2018/04/pouilles-avril-2018-1ere-partie.html
DP Dpri ·
Thanks. What a detailed account, I'm impressed. It really was a wonderful, well-rounded trip.
JO Jostretto Regular ·
Hi there, for several years now we’ve been heading to the region in August—but much farther south than Matera. We leave from Rennes, and this year we’ll be staying for 15 days in the Lecce area before visiting Calabria. I don’t have a blog... As for the car, the GPS threw us a few unexpected surprises... We hardly ever go to the coast, though.
DP Dpri ·
We’re from Rennes but leaving from Nantes for Bari. What GPS did you use?
JO Jostretto Regular ·
Our GPS is Waze and Cam Sam.... Funny, we're from Rennes and we'll be leaving from Nantes too, but we're not staying in a hotel—we're traveling by swapping our apartment.
FA Fabiepot Regular ·
hi! I traveled through Puglia last September for 3 weeks and stayed in 3 regions: Gargano, the Bari area including Matera in Basilicata, and Salento. I used the WAZE app the whole time, and it took me everywhere without any problems—even to a B&B in the middle of an olive grove out in the countryside...
fabienne
DO Dominike Veteran ·
Hi Delphine,

Our GPS = a TomTom...

In Puglia and the Salento: it was the only time our GPS couldn’t get us to our destination, with some accommodations in Italy... Something several travelers have already experienced...

It was tough for our GPS to find the two places we’d booked (in Cisternino and Scorrano)... They were rentals in very small, quiet lanes in the countryside ...

We had to ask locals for help. We’d gotten very close to these places, but then the GPS was completely lost!!! After driving around the countless lanes near both rentals for quite a while, we asked for help—for example, at a riding school—with just a simple *buongiorno*, a big smile, lots of gestures (), and my typed notes, and we received a lot of sincere help in return .

Example: the people at the riding school gathered around, all looked at the name of our rental, the address, etc... They even took out their phones to look up the place online... After discussing among themselves, they called the owner, asked exactly where the rental was... Then they made us understand we should follow a car... They led us to the rental 😎, which turned out to be only 5-7 minutes away. We never got a chance to thank them properly afterward—just a sincere *Grazie* on the spot because they refused any compensation for the call or the time they spent taking us there...

In the end, it’s a really beautiful memory for us because that’s Italian hospitality and kindness 😎.

A little tip after this experience: make sure to ask for the exact GPS coordinates of the rentals if they’re not in city or town centers 😎! Write them down in your GPS at home to check if the addresses work (by comparing with Google Maps, for example) .

I recommended these two rentals to another traveler, and they went there in 2019... They had the same issue with their GPS—it wasn’t easy to find the places—but I’d warned them and given extra directions based on our experience, so everything worked out in the end. But when they got back from their trip, they told me the ‘correct’ addresses provided by the owners still weren’t enough to find the rentals with a GPS if only the address was given .

Have a great day! Dominike
FA Fabiepot Regular ·
If I may, some GPS devices require regular updates or they won’t be reliable. I used to have a high-end Garmin GPS that needed paid updates, and despite that, I still had some bad surprises. Since then, I’ve only used Waze on my phone or sometimes the Mappy app, which is also reliable. Both apps are updated regularly and are free. Waze shows speed cameras, roadworks, traffic jams, accidents, and anything else that might block the road, etc. And if there’s a traffic jam, it anticipates and reroutes you immediately via an alternative route. I use it all the time in France, and last September was the first time I used it ABROAD—in Italy. To avoid draining the battery, though, it’s still a good idea to bring a spare one or a car charger that plugs into the cigarette lighter. With a 20 GB plan, I don’t have any extra charges. My friends with built-in GPS systems also complain about having to pay for updates.
fabienne
DP Dpri ·
Yeah, I used Waze in France and Portugal last summer and don’t remember having any issues. We’ll do the same in Puglia.
DO Dominike Veteran ·
Hi Fabienne,

Updates are good for us and for the traveler who stayed in the same places as we did in Puglia and Salento 😉

Same experience for both of us with our well-updated GPS 😎

No smartphones for us, so no apps possible, but that’s cool for us 🤪... Personally, just a prepaid map reload before leaving on two very old phones 😉... No phones all year when we know how to avoid them 😉..

We’ll have to get into it, but we’re in no rush at all!!!! We prefer talking to each other and all 😊...
BR Brigitte42 Globetrotter ·
Hey, Don’t worry: we had the same issue in Puglia and nowhere else (!!!). Even with an updated GPS that we used every day and everywhere, it still gave us trouble! Smartphones weren’t any better in the countryside—unless we used GPS coordinates...

I think some roads, whether dirt or paved, are so new they haven’t been mapped yet... Have a great evening!
Brigitte
JO Jostretto Regular ·
I have to say, we took the dirt roads—we were literally driving over figs... No houses in sight, we were alone and not in any hurry at all... 2 months in the south of Lecce.
DO Dominike Veteran ·
😎😎😎

It’s all part of the adventure, even if I’ll admit we sometimes panicked because we like to stick to our meet-up times with the owners of the places we book 😉
BR Brigitte42 Globetrotter ·
Hi there, I’ll drop you a line tomorrow: my May trip is almost ready! Have a great evening!
Brigitte
MI Mick013 Veteran ·
the address of my vacation home in the Alpes de Haute-Provence isn’t recognized by GPS, even though it’s only 100 m from a major road
DE Delphtof80 ·
Hi, We're planning to visit Puglia from July 26 to August 9, which is similar to your 2020 dates. The posts I've read about the heat, traffic, and crowds during this period are really putting me off. How was your trip? Thanks for your feedback.
PA PapJ59 Globetrotter ·
Hi,

Gorgeous Puglia off-season... 2 weeks in May/June 2023 to read about here:

https://blogs.crespel.me/italie2023/

See you!
4 fois en Camping-car: Parcs US - NewMex - Yellowst - Louisiane. http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2009/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2011/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2012/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2013/ Andalousie, Bretagne, Corse, Provence, Sicile, Toscane, villes d'Italie. sur : http://blogs.crespel.me/
MA Manudcn ·
Hello,

We’re heading to Puglia from July 30 to August 31, 2020. I booked a rental with a pool in Locorontodo.

The more I read guides and forums, the more I regret booking the flight to Bari. I can cancel the other reservations, but I’d face penalties for the flight.

It’s crowded, avoid August at all costs—traffic jams, stifling heat, price hikes… In short, I’m having second thoughts. Our goal isn’t necessarily to hit the beach. I’m thinking we’ll get up early to go where we want and head back during the hottest part of the day.

Is it *that* bad? Thanks for sharing your experiences.

???

Does this mean you "thought Puglia," booked flights… but didn’t research ANYTHING beforehand? Weather, sights, crowds, costs—seems a bit reckless.

So own it, stop reading forums, grab the excellent *Guide Vert Michelin Puglia* for 19.50 €, and plan your days to visit "chill" at the best times.

You must’ve noticed Bari’s at the same latitude as southern Spain—August isn’t Norway, after all!

See ya

As a Belgian, I thought Northerners were friendlier, like back home, but you’re *very* French! I just scrolled through a few Puglia posts and kept running into your condescending messages—acting like experts while judging people!

Just to put you in your place: Bari is actually *north* of Tarragona, which isn’t even in southern Spain—it’s in the northeast, in southern Catalonia. So if you’re going to respond like that, maybe don’t respond at all. Take time to improve your own life; it’ll probably make you nicer in the future.
PA PapJ59 Globetrotter ·
No one asked for your opinion, it seems. You're taking this post out of context! My Belgian friends are way friendlier and smarter than you.
4 fois en Camping-car: Parcs US - NewMex - Yellowst - Louisiane. http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2009/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2011/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2012/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2013/ Andalousie, Bretagne, Corse, Provence, Sicile, Toscane, villes d'Italie. sur : http://blogs.crespel.me/
PA PapJ59 Globetrotter ·
Your 15 posts are a fantastic "contribution" to the forum, well done...

But digging up one from 2020 (out of context...) just to take a cheap shot doesn’t make you some kind of white knight—quite the opposite, it says a lot about your mentality!

Yeah, I’m tough on "certain" people who treat the forum like a travel agency that’s SUPPOSED to plan everything for them right away! A little effort and research should show goodwill, but this is happening way too often... I’m not the only one who thinks so.
4 fois en Camping-car: Parcs US - NewMex - Yellowst - Louisiane. http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2009/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2011/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2012/ http://blogs.crespel.me/usa2013/ Andalousie, Bretagne, Corse, Provence, Sicile, Toscane, villes d'Italie. sur : http://blogs.crespel.me/

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