Hey everyone, and warm greetings to all you Southern African wanderers exploring the eastern lands of this African forum!
Four years later, I can finally create a new thread about my next trip—and not just any trip: Uganda! 🙂
A destination that’s been making me dream more and more over the past few years.
Originally planned for 2019 but swapped for Tanzania, Kilimanjaro, and Zanzibar.
Then pushed aside for another well-known African destination, Namibia, with 6 friends in 2021 (but ultimately done with just 2 because of Covid).
2022 was supposed to be the year of our Canada trip (initially planned for 2020 and canceled two years in a row for the same health reasons).
The 2021 safari with friends finally happened in South Africa in 2023—a classic loop that didn’t require much planning and let me start dreaming about my next African destination while devouring all the Uganda travel journals, frustrated I couldn’t reply or comment.
Uganda was then reconsidered for 2024 as a follow-up to a 6-week road trip in Finland and Norway, starting from Paris to save time, money, and the ecological footprint of a transatlantic round trip—but ultimately canceled due to budget constraints, the start of my freelance work (no more paid leave), the high cost of 6 weeks in Scandinavia, and no desire to cheapen our first Uganda trip.
Uganda will be the absolute priority for 2025! 😉
And I plan to use this time to prepare for the trip properly. I also hope to use this period to get back to writing our travel journals.
By absolute priority, I mean minimal restrictions and compromises on budget and travel time. 🙂
So, we’re planning to spend a month in Uganda next summer (2025).
The exact month will be decided in the coming weeks.
Why a month? To explore a good part of the country (really want to go up to Kidepo), enjoy the stops, and avoid putting ourselves at risk on the roads. Also, several rental companies offered me 4x4 quotes with a 10% discount for 30+ days of rental...
Here’s my humble draft itinerary:
Day 1: Late arrival in Entebbe around 11 PM.
Day 2: Pick up 4x4 vehicle. Night in Jinja.
Day 3: Drive and night in Sipi Falls.
Day 4: Night in Sipi Falls.
Day 5: Night in Moroto.
Day 6: Night in Moroto.
Day 7: Drive to Kidepo NP.
Day 8: Safari in Kidepo NP.
Day 9: Safari in Kidepo NP.
Day 10: Full day drive to Murchison Falls.
Day 11: Safari in Murchison Falls.
Day 12: Safari in Murchison Falls.
Day 13: Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary.
Day 14: Lake Albert.
Day 15: Full day drive to Kibale Forest.
Day 16: Kibale Forest NP.
Day 17: Drive to Kilembe (Rwenzori NP).
Day 18: Hike in southern Rwenzori region. OR start Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 1).
Day 19: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 2).
Day 20: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 3).
Day 21: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 4).
Day 22: Weismann’s Peak trek (Day 5), night in QENP.
Day 23: QENP.
Day 24: Visit Ishasha and drive to Lake Bunyonyi.
Day 25: Drive to Ruhija.
Day 26: Ruhija, Bwindi NP, gorilla tracking.
Day 27: Mgahinga Gorilla NP...
Day 28: Morning trek (gorillas or golden monkeys). Drive and night in Mburo NP.
Day 31: Visit Mburo NP and drive to Entebbe. Mabamba Swamp if we haven’t seen shoebills yet? Return 4x4 (30 days rental).
Day 32: Departure from Entebbe (flight at 7:30 PM direct to Johannesburg with Uganda Airlines).
It’s not easy to visualize such a long itinerary. In terms of nights, it would look like this:
● Lake Albert (1 night)
● Kibale Forest (2 nights)
● Rwenzori NP (5 nights)
● QENP (2 nights)
● Lake Bunyonyi (1 night)
● Ruhija (2 nights)
● Mgahinga Gorilla NP (1 night?)
● Mburo NP (2 nights)
● Entebbe (1 night)
Obviously, I already have a lot of questions .
A question I really like:
Where would you add extra nights?
Keeping the 5 days in Rwenzori, we still have at least 2 nights to add to this itinerary.
Also, I don’t really have a clear idea about the loop’s direction.
Instinctively, I thought of doing the gorillas last to end on a high note, but given the state of rental vehicles and traveler feedback, it seems we might not even make it to the end of the trip .
Is there a meteorologically better direction?
Given we’re likely leaving from early August to early September.
We’ve debated a lot about renting a vehicle with or without a guide, RAV4 or a proper 4x4, rooftop tent or not...
In the end, after testing the guided experience in Tanzania and noting the relatively reasonable prices of hard lodgings (compared to Tanzania, Namibia, or Botswana, for example), the high cost of equipped 4x4s, and their unpredictable condition... We’re currently leaning toward a non-equipped 4x4, opting for the newest and most reliable vehicle possible to minimize breakdowns and missed stops.
Any agencies/vehicles you’d recommend? Any recent feedback from the past few years?
Where’s the best place to see golden monkeys?
I read that the southern part of QENP is no longer accessible. Can’t we go to Ishasha anymore?
I’ve seen a lot of disappointed reviews about QENP, but it still seems like a good place to spot leopards and hyenas. If we stick with hard lodgings, which lodge is worth it in QENP, and how many nights should we plan? Are there night drives in Uganda to observe nocturnal wildlife?
Initially, I thought of doing two gorilla treks—one in Bwindi (Ruhija) and another in Mgahinga Gorilla NP. But I got excited about Rwenzori (especially with the option to extend the stay a bit) and now I’m considering a trek there instead.
However, the trek to Margherita Peak’s summit takes at least 7 days at 1580 $/person (plus extra rental days...), so I’m leaning toward the 5-day Weismann’s Peak trek.
Has anyone done the Weissman’s Peak trek?
If we skip the gorilla trek, is Mgahinga Gorilla NP still worth visiting?
Thanks in advance for all your comments, answers, feedback, favorite spots, and tips! 🙂
Looking forward to chatting with you all on this forum again! 😉
Great to see you back on the forum and welcome to working life! A couple of quick notes:
For the gorillas, I’d recommend doing your visit in Bwindi instead—it’ll save you an unnecessary detour. There’s nothing to do in Mgahinga besides the gorillas. Plus, Mgahinga only has one gorilla group habituated to humans, while Bwindi has 11, and I find the area much nicer.
You also forgot one must-see animal: the shoebill, which you can spot in the Mabamba Swamp next to Lake Victoria in Entebbe. You’ll find guides who can take you there.
I didn’t like the setup for seeing the chimpanzees—I think the tourist pressure is too high, and it’s poorly organized. As soon as they come down, the guides whistle, and all the tourist groups converge on them.
For everything else, I don’t know enough to help you out.
Happy planning!
"Je suis africain, non pas parce que je suis né en Afrique, mais parce que l'Afrique est née en moi." Kwame Nkrumah.
"J'ai appris que le courage n'est pas l'absence de peur, mais la capacité de la vaincre." Nelson Mandela
Really happy to see you all again, and it’s perfect timing with the planning of my 2025 projects.
Glad to see you back on the forum and welcome to professional life.
Thanks, only 42 more years of contributions if my calculations are right!
But I missed an episode!!!
You went to Uganda? Awesome, you’ve been talking about it for so long 🙂
Will there be a travel journal?
For the gorillas, I’d recommend doing your trek in Bwindi instead—it’ll save you an unnecessary detour. There’s nothing to do in Mgahinga except see the gorillas. Plus, Mgahinga only has one gorilla group habituated to humans, while Bwindi has 11, and I find the area nicer.
Thanks a lot for the feedback.
We’ll probably stick to Bwindi and do the trek from Ruhija, I think.
Still need to find a spot to see the golden monkeys.
Mgahinga isn’t *that* far out of the way, though...
And you forgot one must-see animal: the shoebill, which you can observe in the Mabamba Swamp next to Lake Victoria in Entebbe. You’ll find guides who can take you there.
Oh no, I didn’t forget!
It’s actually the shoebill that brought me back to Uganda.
I had noted the gorillas, but it was a bit pricey for us, and I wasn’t super excited by the reviews of the national parks so far (less wildlife than in Southern Africa, roads cutting through the parks, kidnappings, and terrorist attacks...). It was really the birds that put Uganda back at the top of the list. I *really* wanted to see the shoebill ever since the Girardins shared their Zambia trip. I started looking into Zambia last year but wasn’t super impressed—I got the feeling there weren’t many shoebills and they were hard to spot. Then, while researching where to see them, I came across Uganda, where you can also observe tons of bird species we’ve never seen.
So shoebills *will* be on the program.
From what I’ve gathered, it’ll be Ziwa first, then Mabamba at the end of the trip.
I didn’t like the chimp trekking setup—I found the tourist pressure too high and the organization poor. As soon as the chimps come down, the guides whistle, and all the tourist groups converge on them.
Was that in Kibale?
Do you think there’s a way to do it with other organizers?
We were thinking of maybe adapting... Probably fewer tourists that way.
I don’t want to discourage you, but 42 is a bit optimistic. Plan for around 50 instead.
For the chimpanzees, Kibale was great. Actually, if you do it before the gorillas, it should be less disruptive. And I’m not sure if there are other places to see them.
Watch out for travel time—what seems like a short distance in kilometers can take much longer on the road.
For Uganda, I did a photo trip with a specialized agency, so I didn’t have to handle much myself. I’m not sure if I’ll write a travel journal about Uganda, but I *do* have one in progress about Ethiopia.
I travel differently now—I go more often with agencies specializing in photography than self-drive trips. But I’ve got a South Africa trip planned for 2026, for my retirement.
"Je suis africain, non pas parce que je suis né en Afrique, mais parce que l'Afrique est née en moi." Kwame Nkrumah.
"J'ai appris que le courage n'est pas l'absence de peur, mais la capacité de la vaincre." Nelson Mandela
I’ve been following your trip to Ethiopia closely—it’s been a while since I’ve been this interested in a destination. Thanks for sharing your experience, and the photos are stunning! It’d be a shame not to have your photo updates from Uganda too! 😉
Good evening!
From afar, it really doesn’t seem bad at all (for the parts I know). What a fantastic idea to consider a Rwenzori trek—probably one of the most beautiful high-mountain sites in Africa. There’s very little feedback on this trek, as the mountain is known to be extremely challenging, though I don’t know the specific hike you’re planning. You’ll likely see a super interesting variety of birds.
For overnight stays, it’s not straightforward since it’s a long trip, which will allow for some flexibility and adaptations to any inconveniences. I don’t think there’s a real need to plan too strictly, but the far northeast will be easier in dry conditions than if it rains.
It’s best to leave Kampala as early as possible when heading to Jinja to avoid traffic as much as possible. Then, if you’re not doing anything special in Jinja, personally, I’d push on to Mbale (or even Sipi Falls). Otherwise, add an extra night in Jinja to spend the day there and do things like rafting.
Safe travels and what a great adventure in any case!
Thanks for your message—I was hoping you’d chime in! 🙂
If we manage to see the golden monkeys, we’ll probably drop Mgahinga, which would leave us with one extra night around Bwindi/Mburo, plus the two remaining nights to add.
In that case, I’ll likely place one in the northeast and the other based on everyone’s feedback—maybe Murchison Falls, Kibale (after a long drive from Lake Albert, or along the shores of Lake Bunyonyi just to relax after the Rwenzori Mountains and before the gorillas...). QENP probably won’t make the cut, though
I’ve read mixed and even contradictory info about seasons and weather, but it seems like August is relatively dry across the country—am I wrong?
I’d noted some nice places near Jinja to break up the drive, which is supposed to be pretty long (I’ve budgeted 5 hours to Jinja). Is Mbale nicer? Any lodging recommendations?
Thanks again!
Hello,
When you arrive, will you be staying in Entebbe or Kampala? And will you pick up the vehicle the next day?
The travel time to Jinja from your hotel will obviously depend on punctuality and the vehicle pickup time. If it's early enough, 5 hours seems like a stretch, but it's not a bad idea to allow a good margin.
For hotels in Mbale, the ones I know aren’t any better than in Jinja—it’s just that personally, I prefer one long leg of the journey over two medium-long ones. So, but that’s just my personal take, either I’d try to organize things to arrive in Mbale or even Sipi by late afternoon on the first day by leaving early. Or I’d add an extra night in Jinja to enjoy the town and the activities around the Nile in general.
Normally, we’ll arrive late, so we’ll spend the night in Entebbe and pick up the 4x4 the next day (another big question mark for the trip regarding the agency and the vehicle).
It’s true that with age and experience, we prefer to spend 2 nights in the same place, but for the first day of driving, a short stop might be better. We’ll decide once we’re in touch with the 4x4 rental agency during the final planning stages.
Good evening!
Good choice of rental company—I don’t know any myself.
If I were you, on the evening of your arrival, I’d try to push on to Kampala. It’s not far, and at night, the roads are clear. Explorer Hub is a great hotel—well-located and really nice.
But anyway, Entebbe is also very nice.
I was in Uganda not long ago and might go back in the first half of 2025, maybe around Fort Portal this time.
Hello everyone!
What a huge pleasure to reconnect with all the active members of this old forum, which was deserted for known reasons!!
Since 2020, I’ve traveled to Botswana (Chobe-Savuti-Moremi-Boteti River-Nxai Pan-Kubu Island) in August 2021 (under COVID restrictions, it was epic for the trip via JNB), then Namibia in August 2022. Anyway, the passion hasn’t faded, and I’ll likely return to Botswana in 2026 to introduce some friends to it!
In the meantime, I’ve had my eye on Uganda for a while, especially for the primates.
I have a plan in place with a private guide—it almost happened last year, but we were a bit put off by the tragic events near Ishasha in the southern part of QENP in October 2023.
Things *seem* to be under control now, and after reading the latest trip reports, I’m diving back into the planning.
I’ll be less ambitious than you, Pierre, since I’ll only have a max of 15 days...
To be continued—I’ll definitely share updates on this!
Happy planning, Pierre, and looking forward to your amazing travel journals!
I better understand your interest in our very recent trip to Uganda, which lasted 3 weeks between late August and mid-September.
Your initial itinerary idea matches quite well with what we did, with two exceptions:
- We didn’t go to the Rwenzori Mountains, so you’ll have an extra week
- The direction of the country visit. Ending with the gorillas might actually be a good idea, especially since for me, the hardest part was traveling from Kidepo to Sipi Falls (and vice versa, of course). I mentioned in our trip report how tough that 17-hour journey was (instead of 8 hours): https://voyageforum.com/forum/retour-notre-circuit-primates-en-ouganda-d10553381/
So starting with the toughest part is probably worth considering.
A few additional comments based on the direction of your "theoretical" itinerary:
- Sipi Falls: Two days are needed for hiking because the first day is mostly spent traveling from Jinja to Sipi Falls. One observation: roads in Uganda are very congested. Don’t forget there are 40 million Ugandans in a country twice as small as France, so travel times are significant.
- Moroto: "Damn" it’s beautiful could sum up the Karamoja region in northeastern Uganda, which is still one of the poorest regions on the African continent. A striking contrast.
- Kidepo is majestic. Check out a recent article by Africa Geographic on the subject:
https://africageographic.com/stories/kidepo-valley-national-park-a-valley-of-wonders/?mc_cid=2f8bbee010&mc_eid=1ce27efaef
But we were disappointed with the wildlife. Oh well, that’s the "game"—after all the safaris we’ve done, we know you never know what you’ll see in advance! But given how much we "suffered" to get there, the reward wasn’t quite what we’d hoped.
- Murchison Falls National Park: Really nice and varied since you can do a car safari, boat ride, and walking safari. Just watch out for the distances and travel times between the east and west sides of the park near the falls.
- Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary: We loved walking just a few meters away from 4-5 very calm rhinos.
- Kibale Forest and the chimpanzee trek: Don’t hesitate to do it. But if you visit Bigodi Swamp, make sure to ask *before* paying whether you’ll actually cross the swamp—after paying and walking a bit, our guide told us we wouldn’t cross it because it was completely flooded, and we’d just go around the outside instead!!!!! We didn’t see much.
- QENP: Surprisingly, we were lucky to see animals (lions, leopards, hyenas, and lots of herbivores). We had some great wildlife encounters on the Kazinga Channel during a boat tour (highly recommended). The Ishasha area is temporarily off-limits following the murders of two British tourists in 2023 and their guide by guerrillas. Maybe not worth going there???
- Lake Bunyoni: Nice, and the boat-hike combo is a good idea.
- Bwindi Impenetrable National Park for gorilla trekking is highly recommended. First, because you’re guaranteed to see these majestic gorillas. Pro tip from an old-timer: When groups are being assigned, if you’re not feeling up to it, don’t hesitate to say so (which was especially true in my case). You might get assigned a closer gorilla family. That’s what happened to me—I got feedback from people who hiked for hours, while my "lazy" group only walked 20 minutes. Though some people *like* suffering!!!!
- Mgahinga National Park: Rather disappointing because our visit conditions for seeing the golden monkeys weren’t ideal. The hike was too fast for my wife, who had a vagal episode (hard to walk fast with post-COVID symptoms). The monkeys were only in the trees and moving around, so they weren’t easy to photograph.
- Lake Mburo: This park has an amazing history—it almost disappeared.
https://africageographic.com/stories/lake-mburo-national-park/
Anyway, this small park is pretty nice. Try a walking safari with park rangers among giraffes and zebras.
- Kampala: We only spent one night there, so I don’t have much of an opinion—it didn’t seem very interesting.
- Entebbe: Much prettier, with lots of green spaces.
- Shoebills: I’d dreamed of seeing them (my wife, not so much), but I did! We got within a few meters of a shoebill couple in Mabamba Swamp.
In summary: Uganda is very exotic with its equatorial climate—it’s super green (the opposite of Namibia). The population is huge (watch out for all the kids along the roads), and people are ready to help if you’re in trouble. That was our case when the car’s radiator sprang a leak, stranding us three times along the road. Warning: The vehicles are very old and far below the quality standards you’d find in South Africa or Namibia. The roads can also be really rough—though we were lucky not to get any rain.
Weather: Good weather between August 24 and September 13, 2024. Just one storm in Murchison.
Feel free to reach out if you need anything else.
Happy trip planning!
Loïc
So glad to see you back on this forum... even if I won’t be adding much to the previous comments 😎 (my trip was back in 2018).
All I can say is that Uganda holds a special place in my heart among my African travels (though I couldn’t tell you why). I loved everything about the trip (a bit more mixed feelings about QENP, but it depends on the experience)... so I’ll go check out Simon’s travel journal 😉
Happy planning
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
It’s really happening for us—we leave on July 31st and arrive in Entebbe on August 1st on a Rwandair flight.
For the return, we’ll see, but for now we’ve given ourselves plenty of time (October 1st) since we’re not yet sure what we’ll do in September, but we’ll definitely still be in Africa.
Next step: renting the 4x4. I’ve set my sights on an authentic Landcruiser Troopy—something different from the Hilux.
Hopefully, I’ll have some time soon to get back to my travel journals. Next on the list is the Tanzania 2019 one. 😉
Hi there. First of all, thank you and well done on your trip report—it’s really helpful! We’re planning a trip to Uganda next January and I’m starting to gather good info.
Could you tell me which rental company you used?
I’ve also read that there are practically no road signs and that Google Maps isn’t reliable. How was your experience with that?
I’m taking advantage of your post to gather some ideas/tips for planning my trip at the end of the year (3 weeks in December/January) 😉
Which rental company did you use for the 4x4? We’re planning to do a self-drive trip and stay in lodges (no camping).
How did you organize the gorilla permits and other activities?
Hi Régis,
I’d like to know if the trek through the gorges to see the chimpanzees in Queen Elizabeth National Park is any good, since it’s a lot cheaper 🙈
Thanks in advance!
Serge
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Ouganda · 8 replies
Nous partons l'été prochain 3 semaines en Ouganda avec nos deux enfants, qui auront 7 et 9 ans. Nous connaissons un peu l'Afrique Australe mais pas l'Afrique…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Ouganda · 8 replies
Après avoir du annuler notre voyage en Ouganda en décembre 2020, on a décidé d'enfin le faire en décembre/janvier. Départ le 28 décembre et retour le 18…
Je viens ici avec une question sur quel Parc pour un safari de 3 jours au Keyna ?
Après 20 jours en Ouganda, je retrouve mon père pour un safari de 3 jours (cela lui convient). Nous nous retrouvons à Nairobi et nous avons la journée pour nous deplacer dans un Parc (le plus loin de Nairobi pour éviter la foule?) et y passer 4 nuits avant de retourner à la capitale pour la France.
J'aurais souhaité vos recommendations car je lis beaucoup de choses três interessantes sur ce forum.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
