Concernant Michel Vieuchange, je recommande tout particulièrement le livre de "Patrick Adam", hélas disparu bien trop tôt, intitulé "Sur les traces de Michel Vieuchange".
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Tu as aussi son carnet de route, sur lequel il notait son périple jour après jour. Ce récit de voyage a été publié par son frère, Jean Vieuchange sous le titre "Smara".
Une petite anecdote à ce sujet, avec des amis baroudeurs, nous avons repris son parcours à plusieurs reprises, mais avec nos véhicules...
Parcours parfois émouvant en sachant qu'il a emprunté les mêmes pistes, mais à pied, parfois déguisé en femme, parfois dans un panier transporté par un dromadaire, pour passer inaperçu jusqu'à sa ville de destination, autrefois interdite et créée pour porter la voix de l'Islam dans ce secteur du Sahara. Un tel parcours permet d'imaginer sa peine de parcourir tous ces kilomètres dans de telles conditions 😕, on n'en revient pas indifférent.
Tout Pays, organisme, ou tribune appliquant la répression, l'exclusion ou la censure est voué à sa propre perte.
Merci JCH 🙂 pour ces diaporamas du Maroc qu'on aime !
Quoi qu'on dise c'est quand même le plus souvent ces images que recherchent les futurs voyageurs ...
" Nous ne saurons jamais tout le bien qu'un simple sourire peut être capable de faire."
Mère Teresa
Michel Vieuchange né à Never le 26 aout 1904, découvre le Maroc en 1926, lors de son service militaire. C’est là que cette «tête brûlée» est contaminé par la passion du désert qui va le consumer quatre ans plus tard. Son voyage dans le désert était surtout initiatique, une sorte de recherche de la plénitude et de l’accomplissement de soi. Sa quête ne visait pas à accumuler des conquêtes, à baliser des chemins, ni à enrichir les cartes géographiques. Il n’était pas non plus friand de gloire personnelle. Vieuchange était un amoureux de l’infini désertique, un Saharien au sens noble du terme, un ermite à la recherche d’une terre où planter une tente et s’installer.....Son récit de voyage est aussi un extraordinaire recueil des comportements humains, un vrai travail d’ethnologue – amateur il est vrai, mais d’une rafraîchissante sincérité, loin des lourdeurs académiques.....Mais l’essentiel reste le chemin, la route qui mène vers Smara, la ville sainte, la capitale religieuse des Sahraouis, la ville interdite, un vrai calvaire. «Soleil», écrit-il laconiquement, pour rappeler la chaleur obsédante et étouffante Des semaines d’effort pour trois heures à Smara..... Et commence alors le chemin du retour, un véritable supplice................
Mais le véritable découvreur de cette cité perdue est un autre «fou du désert» français, Camille Douls. Cet Aveyronnais, quasiment oublié aujourd’hui, a répondu à l’appel irrésistible du désert à 22 ans. C’était en 1887, que l’idée farfelue et extrêmement dangereuse à l’époque, d’explorer l’intérieur du Sahara. Devenu un protégé des chefs sahraouis, il découvre la ville sainte de Smara et c’est lui qui décrit le mieux les tribus de la région.... Cas unique à l’époque, il vit pendant deux ans au Sahara .......Il sera assassiné par ses guides...
«L’homme suiveur de nuages, Camille Douls, saharien. 1864-1889. Albert Roussanne, éd du Rouergue, Paris 1991
Extraits d’un article consacré à Michel Vieuchange, paru dans la revue «L’histoire du Maroc ZAMANE» n° 5 mars 2011
Et pour tous ceux qui ont eu l’occasion de découvrir ce si beau désert, ne peuvent que comprendre la fabuleuse, fantastique passion de nos anciens explorateurs....
Photo Michel Vieuchange
On ne voit bien qu'avec le coeur car l'essentiel est invisible pour les yeux.... Antoine de Saint Exupéry
Belles images, et petite leçon d'histoire ...... ça cultive la nostalgie , et pendant ce temps on est pas dehors sous les intempéries qui se bousculent à ma fenètre.
Merci , les amis , je pense que ce sont des repésailles après les belles photos de "cochonailles" ???😊😊
Smara ... n'est ce point le vrai désert ??
Celui que peu de touristes osent approcher ??
Et pourtant c'est accessible facilement
routes goudronnées depuis Tantan et Layoune, mais néanmoins désertiques .
et les bus y vont !
Précipitez vous , vous n'en reviendrez pas .
Ouais, Smara c'est sympa d'y aller et facile.
Le problème, c'est l'hébergement, car si Patrick Adam (toujours lui) avait un projet le "Relais Michel Vieuchange", il n'a pas abouti suite à son décès.
Mais pour ceux qui cherchent de l'authentique et qui ont en horreur le tourisme de masse, c'est là bas qu'il faut aller 😉
Ou alors Aousserd aussi, c'est typique 😮
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Le Relais.... Quelle histoire !!! 🤪
Malheureusement, ça n'aboutira jamais...
Je connais au moins deux personnes, amis proches, qui s'y sont cassé les dents en voulant le terminer et mettre un hébergement en place dans ce secteur.
Trop de conflits internes entre intervenants et administrations sur place, trop de promesses non tenues, problèmes de titre de propriété, problèmes de société non dissoute, etc, etc...
Je connais bien le Relais, dernière image (un peu floue d'ailleurs 😕) de la vidéo. Des travaux y ont été réalisés, puis ça a été pillé ou saccagé à plusieurs reprises, reconstruit, amélioré...
Mais tant que les choses sur place ne seront pas aussi claires que cela veut le paraître, il est inutile d'y perdre du temps.
Il y avait même un projet digne d'intérêt très récemment qui devait voir le jour, à quelques kilomètres de l'autre coté de la route menant vers Laayoune, il n'a pas abouti non plus.
Tant qu'il n'y aura pas de véritable volonté des responsables locaux et de l'administration sur place, il n'y aura pas de véritable hébergement.
D'un autre coté, on est en plein Sahara Occidental qui perçoit des subventions... Est il vraiment nécessaire pour eux de remplir des documents et formulaires supplémentaires liés à un afflux touristique alors qu'ils vivent très bien actuellement.
Quoi qu'il en soit, c'est vraiment un secteur magnifique où l'on ressent une ambiance particulière. Difficile de la qualifier, mais elle est bien présente.
Tout Pays, organisme, ou tribune appliquant la répression, l'exclusion ou la censure est voué à sa propre perte.
Je connais, dans le carré chrétien du petit cimetière qui longe la rocade d'Agadir...
Ce cimetière est d'ailleurs chargé d'histoire plus récente aussi, on y trouve de nombreuses sépultures de personnes disparues lors du tremblement de terre d'Agadir. C'est d'ailleurs étonnant et émouvant de voir la même date de décès sur de nombreuses tombes lorsqu'on lit les plaques.
Tout Pays, organisme, ou tribune appliquant la répression, l'exclusion ou la censure est voué à sa propre perte.
dans le meme cimetiere, il y a aussi la stelle des disparus du CATALINA, un hydravion de la marine Francaise qui s'est abimé au large d'Agadir en 1949:
Toujours proche de Smara, quelques images du désert, orientées "raid" mais qui laissent apprécier l'environnement, celui où l'on ne croise pas beaucoup de monde, bien moins qu'à Merzouga ou Mhamid ...
Dernières images du retour par les pistes dans le secteur de la Vallée du Paradis et Imouzzer, près d'Agadir.
Je connais, dans le carré chrétien du petit cimetière qui longe la rocade d'Agadir...
Bonjour,
En fait , il s'agit du cimetière Chrétien ( on en trouve un immense Musulman et un autre Juif sur la même petite route..)
Dans ce cimetière Chrétien , il existe un carré militaire dans lequel on trouve aussi des tombes musulmane ( on le distingue au fond de ma 1ère photo, derrière la tombe de MV )
Ce cimetière existait bien avant le tremblement de terre et bon nombre de tombes ont été abimées lors du séisme.
On trouve aussi ces carrés dans d'autres villes. Le carré militaire du cimetière de Meknès est particulièrement important... ( photos )
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hi everyone,
We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route.
Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help