En préparation pour février/mars 15 jours sinon plus pour découvrir une partie de ce pays, s'aventurer dans la jungle, observer la faune, traverser des régions de volcans, de sources chaudes et fôrets tropicales et passer quelques jours soit sur la côte des Caraïbes, soit celle du Pacifique. Nous pensons nous déplacer en 4x4.
Pour faire un premier draft j'ai besoin de vous!😉 Je n'ai aucune idée du temps qu'il faut sur place et du temps qu'il faut pour les déplacements. 🤪Nous pouvons jongler avec le nombre de jours🙂 mais nous ne voulons pas dépasser 3 semaines car nous prévoyons de terminer notre voyage à Roatan (Honduras) où vit notre fils et faire de la plonger.
Pour citer quelques préferences:
La Vallée centrale avec ses volcans Irazu et Paos, la vallée d'Orosi, et les villages en logeant certainement à Alajuela pendant 3 jours.
Monteverde er Santa Elena, Fortuna, volcan et lac Arenal, Rincon de la Vieja pendant 1 semaine (où loger?)
Cahuita, Manzanillo ( mais comment inclure cette région sans perdre trop de temps en déplacement)
Ou rester sur la côte pacifique et là j'ai vraiment besoin de vos coups de coeur et votre savoir.
Merci pour vos commentaires sur les régions, le temps en trajet et en jours et les endroits qui sont pour vous incontournable. Ce voyage est notre premier au CR et nous sommes conscients qu'un choix s'impose dans notre itinéraire. Nous préferons faire un voyage cool, prendre notre temps mais tout de même essayer de diversifier les visites.
Une dernière question : où louer un 4x4, à l'aèroport en arrivant ou en ville, par internet ou sur place?
Bonsoir Michèle et Daniel,
Sympathique votre projet, et sur 3 semaines encore mieux et aussi félicitations pour votre site et votre philosophie, cela me rappel quelque chose.
Ici les temps de transport sont assez longs, les routes sont en état moyen (voir pire) et avec les camions et les bus il faut souvent prendre son mal en patience.
En gros sur les grands axes il faut compter en moyenne du 40/45 km par heure et sur les secondaires environ 25 km par heure, voir moins sur la route d'accès de l'Interamericana à Monteverde que je ne connais que de réputation.
Je vous donne une idée (perso) d'itinéraire;
Nous habitons à Orosi, la plus belle vallée du Costa Rica (en toute modestie !!), c'est environ à 1h30 de l'aéroport, et sur la route (l'ancienne route) de Limon par Turrialba, la vue y est splendide le matin et beaucoup plus sympa et moins dangereux que de passer par le Zurqui (Braulio Carrillo).
Orosi est une bonne base de départ pour faire le volcan Irazu et Turrialba, visiter le Jardin Botanique Lankester (une des plus belle collection d'orchidée au CR), découvrir le Parque Nacional Tapanti (forêt primaire humide, sources thermales dans le Rio Grande de Orosi, etc..), voir les ruine de Ujarras, naviguer sur le lac Cachi, voir le monument précolombien de Guayabos, en bref il y a de quoi faire.
Nous avons ici des amis Suisses (Roland et Freddy) qui louent des motos 125 et 650cc et organisent des tours, notamment aux 2 volcans.
Nous vivons depuis 2 ans à Orosi (11 ans au CR) et venons de terminer un guest house, je vous invite à visiter notre site.
En repartant d'Orosi (ay que dificil !) vous descendez sur Limon et vous êtes à Cahuita en 3h30, je vous recommande aussi Manzanillo, le dernier village au bout de la route, vraiment Caraibes et relax, de là vous pouvez faire un saut à Punta Mona (une ferme écologique autosostenible dans la jungle ou j'ai installé le système d'énergie solaire), vous pouvez y aller en bateau, demandez à Baco, ou bien à pied (env 3-4h) demandez à Tino qui vous servira de guide, je crois d'ailleurs que Tino loue des cabinas.
En repartant de Limon, vous pouvez faire un saut à Tortuguero, il faut prévoir une nuit là bas et l'accès se fait en bateau par des canaux (superbes).
Ensuite remontez vers la Fortuna en passant par la route Puerto Viejo de Sarrapiqui. De là le volcan Arenal, puis le tour du lac Arenal et ensuite remontez vers Rincon de la Vieja, parait il superbe mais je ne connais malheureusement pas.
En redescendant vers Puntarenas n'oubliez pas de faire un détour vers Monteverde, ensuite à Puntarenas vous pouvez prendre le ferry à Playa Naranjo, le voyage est sympa, et passer quelques jours dans le coin, c'est assez sauvage et pas surdéveloppé touristiquement comme le Pacifique Nord.
Ensuite en remontant vers San José, vous pourrez passer quelques jours à Alajuela (visite du Volcan Poas et Barva) et reprendre l'avion direction Honduras.
Par contre il vous faudra revenir l'année prochaine pour visiter le Pacifique Sud !
J, espère vous avoir donner envie de venir et excuser mon chauvinisme pour Orosi, mais je suis vraiment amoureux de cette vallée.
J'espére vous lire prochainement.
Saludos cordiales.
Frank
Tout d'abord vous n'aurez pas besoin d'une voiture 4x4 car c'est la saison sèche. Choissisez Toyota-rent-a-car qu'est probablement le meilleur du pays.
Vous pouvez vous aventurier sans problèmes dès San Jose, au centre du pays, vers les côtes de l'atlantique ou le pacifique. Procurez-vous une carte routière (dans l'hôtel d'Alajuela d'où vous comencerez le voyage) et surtout suivez le nez, car les indications routières sont très limitées.
Où loger? Ne vous en faites pas: il y a tant d'endroits dans tous les parages si vous êtes sans grandes exigences. Suivez un plan de parcours logique, considérant qu'ici les "distances" se mesurent en temps et ne pas en kilomètres. Une bonne moyenne est de 50 kmh. Vos destinations sont bien choisies pour connaitre le pays. Si vous irez jusqu'au Rincon de la Vieja, profitez de voir la côte pacifique au Guanacaste (Hermosa, Coco, Tamarindo, Nosara) et les alentours de Nicoya. (Samara, Carillo, et plus au sud si possible). Ensuite, plus a sud encore, Jaco, Hermosa, Quepos, Manuel Antonio, Dominical, et s'il vous reste le courage et le temps, la pénunsile d'Osa (Puerto Jimenez, etc.)
Personellement je préfère le "Caribe" de Puerto Viejo jusqu'à Manzanillo, avec ses sons, sa nature, la bonne bouche, et la touche internationale.
Bon voyage !
Santo Domingo de Heredia - Costa Rica - GPS lat. 09º58'40.1" long. 84º5'35.6"
Merci beaucoup Frank pour ta prompte réponse et surtout tous les détails qui m'éclairent et me permettent de voir notre circuit d'une façon plus concrète.😎
Je me permets encore quelques questions! Lorsque nous devons prendre ferry ou bateau, pouvons nous prendre notre voiture puisque nous pensons louer pour le temps de notre séjour?
Est ce préferable de prévoir d'avance notre retour vers le Honduras ou pouvons nous réserver notre billet d'avion sur place? De cette manière nous serons plus libre dans nos déplacements au CR et de rester ou partir selon nos désirs.
Merci encore pour ton aide.
Notre site est en "travaux", 🤪c'est pour cette raison que les photos ne sont pas visibles pour l'instant.
Merci pour ta réponse et notre séjour semble déjà plus clair dans nos têtes. Je pense faire comme tu dis la côte caribe avec Cahuita et Manzanillo et garder la côte pacifique pour un prochain voyage.
J'avais trouvé le site Toyota-rent-a-car, et nous passerons probablement par ce site. Nous arriverons peut être tard (vers 21h30) à San José. Est ce plus raisonnable de prendre un taxi vers notre logement et prendre la voiture le lendemain?
Nous sommes impatients de faire ce voyage. Le CR semble être un coup de coeur pour tous ceux qui visitent ce pays.
Bonjour Michèle et Daniel,
Sur le ferry vous pouvez prendre la voiture, le cout est inférieur à 7 euros pour 1h30 de traversée et il y a env. 4 départs par jours, il vaut mieux arriver un peu en avance (mini 1h) car des fois les files sont longues et si il y a des camion et des bus le ferry se rempli en "dos toques" (très vite). http://www.guiascostarica.com/ferry.htm
Pour le 4x4, je suis d'accord avec Fraluchi, j'en profite au passage pour saluer Don Adriaan de la part de Frank Burton des sistemas de energia solar Electro Burton, une voiture normale suffit à cette saison et de plus c'est bien plus confortable. Moi aussi je préfère largement les Caraibes, beaucoup plus détendu et moins touristique.
Je pense qu'il n'est pas nécessaire de réserver depuis la France votre billet pour Roatan, vous pourrez le faire d'ici et cela surement un peu moins cher.
Si vous décidez de venir directement de l'aéroport à Orosi, sachez que nous pouvons venir vous chercher à l'aéroport, ce qui quand même plus relax aprés le long voyage en avion.
Saludos cordiales,
Frank
Bonjour Mida!
Je me permets de te suggérer les cabinas "Sol y Mar", à Cahuita, au bout de la rue principale...
Ns en avons gardé un très bon souvenir (accueil, confort et propreté) et en plus il est très bien situé (à côté du Parc national).
Tu ne regretteras pas la côte Caribe: son "zenisme" contagieux, ses paysages merveilleux, ses rastas men, et si tu aimes le poisson... aïe aïe aïe!!!
Dépaysement assuré!
Bon séjour!😉
Merci Tizania, j'ai bien pris note des cabinas. C'est bien décidé maintenant, nous ferons la côte caribe. Tout le monde semble dire que cette région est belle et tranquille, et cela nous convient très bien.🙂
Nous sommes seulement au stade de l'organisation mais j'adore! Pour moi le voyage c'est avant, pendant et après, et chaque moment compte et laisse d'excellents souvenirs.
FrankCR vous a donné un excellent parcours (voir plus haut). Il faut y ajouter un conseil.
Considérant l'heure tardive de votre arrivée à San Jose (21.30h), allez à votre hôtel (ville d'Alajuela, 5 minutes, 3 km) en taxi. Louez une voiture avec coffre fermé, de façon qu'on ne puisse voir vos baggages, le lendemain. Les voitures 4x4, à part du fait que vous n'en aurez pas besoin (malgré l'opinion contraire d'une voisine !!), généralement sont vitrées de tous les côtés, ce qui pourrait inviter au vol.
Santo Domingo de Heredia - Costa Rica - GPS lat. 09º58'40.1" long. 84º5'35.6"
Bonjour, j'ai passe qqes jours a Rincon de la Vieja en 2000 et effectivement c'est tres beau et assez impressionant, ainsi que le volcan Arenal. Mais si vous faites deja Poas, ca sera peut etre un peu repetitif.
Pour ce qui est de la jungle, je vous conseille la Peninsula d'Osa au depart de Golfita, petit village de pecheurs. De la vous pouvez aller au port et demander a un pecheur de vous faire faire la traverser et si possible de vous servir de guide dans la foret, sensations garanties! 🙂
FrankCR vous a donné un excellent parcours (voir plus haut). Il faut y ajouter un conseil.
Considérant l'heure tardive de votre arrivée à San Jose (21.30h), allez à votre hôtel (ville d'Alajuela, 5 minutes, 3 km) en taxi. Louez une voiture avec coffre fermé, de façon qu'on ne puisse voir vos baggages, le lendemain. Les voitures 4x4, à part du fait que vous n'en aurez pas besoin (malgré l'opinion contraire d'une voisine !!), généralement sont vitrées de tous les côtés, ce qui pourrait inviter au vol.
Et la voisine 😉 confirme ... Je connais trop les routes de mon pays d'adoption, dans lequel je circule pas mal, pour savoir qu'un vrai 4x4 est nécessaire si on veut aller ou l'on veut, en toute liberte et en toute securite. Même en saison seche, qui dans certaines zones du Costa Rica, n'a de seche que le nom ...
Je dirai meme que le 4x4 est bien utile dans certaines parties de la capitale et de notre chere Heredia ... Il y a des rues qui ont plus de nids de poules que d'asphalte!
J'ai vraiment du mal a comprendre que tu écrives le contraire aussi souvent 🤪. A croire que tu ne sors pas beaucoup de Santo Domingo (humour) ... Ou simplement es-tu viscéralement contre les 4x4, gros consommateurs de combustible ????
Ayay EliCR ! Je viens de faire l'aller et retour de San Jose à Playa Tamarindo la semaine passée. Sans 4x4 bien sûr, en prenant la route San Jose, San Ramon, Esparza, Limonal (direction Liberia - arrêt de 30 minutes pour un bon "gallo pinto" au restaurant Mi Finca). Le trajet était sans les autrement grands trous. Limonal, le pont sur Tempisque, Nicoya, Santa Cruz, 27 de Abril. Jusqu'ici toute la route est réparée. Restent 8 km de trajet désastreux jusqu'à la hauteur de Pinilla, les 5 km restants jusqu'à Villa Real toujours de poussières innouies, et à l'intérieur de Tamarindo une rue déguelasse! Il est facile de comprendre pourquoi ils ont perdu "la bandera azul"
Aller-retour 514 km, faciles à faire avec une bagnole normale.
Il-y-a 10 jours j'ai fait le parcours San Jose - Caribe (Manzanillo), passant una nuit à l'hôtel Cocles (entre Puerto Viejo et Playa Chiquita, Playa Cocles bien sûr!) Prenant la route 32 (Braulio Carrillo ou "Zurqui") jusqu'à quelques km avant Limòn. Route pratiquement entièrement réparée, quoiqu'il faut constamment faire attention aux surprises puisque les pluies ont recommencées. Avant Limòn, virage à droite, direction Bomba et Beverly, ce qui coupe le trajet en evitant Limòn même. Route assez bien réparée.
Ensuite direction Puerto Viejo en passant par le pont sur la rivière Estrella (plus ou moins réparée après publication d'une photo dans "La Naciòn" montrant una situation désastreuse l'année dernière - devinez qui l'avait pris), Penshurst et Cahuita. De Cahuita la route est bonne jusqu'à Hone Creek (où ma fille a une propriété), mais les 8 km d'ici jusqu'à Puerto Viejo sont "comme toujours": poussières et durs sur les suspensions. La sortie de Puerto Viejo, direction Manzanillo, est désastreuse. Il-y-a 15 ans c'était mieux !
A peu près 10 km de sursauts. Ensuite, de Punta Uva à Manzanillo, 5 km acceptables avec moins de traffic.
Maintenant: si vous pensez de passer de Punta Uva à Paraìso (petit patelin entre Bribri et Sixaola), informez-vous bien sur l'état, car ici vous aurez parfois des difficultés, même avec une voiture 4x4. Je l'ai fait en bécane l'année dernière pendant la saison sèche, et vous ne vous rendez pas compte comment tout peut changer en un clin d'oeil pendant la saison des pluies.
Entre Puerto Viejo et Manzanillo vous avez quantités d'endroits pour dormir et manger pour toutes les poches. Bonne cuisine locale chez "Selwyn" (l'oncle de mon beaufils) à Punta Uva, mais il faut vous renseigner s'il a envie de cuisiner le jour de votre visite !
Autre local exceptionnel est "La Pecora Nera", avant Cocles: cuisine italienne de haute classe, quelques fourchettes Michelin, tant pour vous situer. Pas bon marché, mais cela vaut la peine.
Manzanillo est "surpeuplé", du moins quand je compare l'endroit aux années 80-90 et je suis bien content d'avoir vendu ma maison près de la plage et "Maxi". Même "Maxi" n'a plus la cuisine d'autan !
Mais: la région est toujours une des plus belles de Costa Rica.
Une note a EliCR: je "fais" quelques 30'000 km de routes par année dans le pays et vous assure de n'avoir utilisé les marches 4x4 que deux fois. Et encore ai-je resté bloqué dans la boue ! Mea culpa.
Conduire dans ce pays exige une attention constante et beaucoup de patience. Même à Heredia, "Ciudad de los huecos" (antérieurement "Ciudad de las Flores", signifiant "ville des jolies filles")
Ce samedi je serai près de Perez Zeledon (San Isidro de El General) dans la région au sud de "Los Santos". Sans 4x4 bien sûr.
Cheers !
Santo Domingo de Heredia - Costa Rica - GPS lat. 09º58'40.1" long. 84º5'35.6"
Olla,
j'ai pu profiter de l'accueil de Rancho Margot, dans la région d'Arenal, a quelques 15 km et 1h de Lafortuna. Une vue imprenable sur le volcan en activité pour les soirées au ciel dégagé. A 5h de San Jose en voiture.
Version petite bête, découverte de la jungle, sur place vous trouverez "Raid Arenal" qui propose des randos dans la jungle avec nuit en hamac.Une expérience d'enfer. Toujours accompagné de guide, découverte de la faune et la flore local assurée.
Et si vous êtes un peu sportif, RAid Arenal a aussi des circuits côté mangrove du pacifique ou jungle intérieur avec traces de felin ou tribu indigène locale.
Merci Roldan pour ces infos. J'avais déjà pris note pour Rancho Margot dans la région. Combien de jours as tu passé dans ce coin, en sachant qu'après nous voulons aller à Rincon de la Vieja et ensuite en retournant vers San José à Monteverde/Santa Elena? J'ai pensé 3 nuits. C'est certainement une experience top de passer la nuit dans la jungle mais je me demande si ce n'est pas trop "rude" pour mes habitudes de petite bourgeoise! 😉 J'aime bien l'aventure mais .... on a peut être passé l'age🙁
Toutes les propositions sont à étudier. Merci pour ton aide;
J'était à Rancho margot pendant 10 jours au mois de juin. Même si c'est le début de la saison des pluies, ce n'est pas n'ont plus la mousson. Une pluie chaude ce n'est pas désagréable.
Concernant la nuit dans la jungle, le circuit le plus ligth demande, 5 h de marche aller et 5h de marche retour, avec sac à dos.
Le top de cette ballade c'est: traversé de torrent, rando dans la jungle progressivement, découverte des petites bêtes et si vous avez de la chance des plus grosses. Lorsque j'ai réalisé la rando, le guide (français et entre autre mon frère) nous à arrêté pour voir 3 serpents, mais moi, le temps que je réalise, je n'ai vu que la queue défilé. Par contre papillon invisible, singe, (sorte de) pintade, fourmies processionaires, orchidé...oiseau de toute les couleurs et "bruits" de la forêt.
Justement, la nuit. Tous ces bruits entre la pluis les animaux ou la végétation, ils sont amplifiés par l'arrêt de notre progression. Sur place lunette infrarouge pour regarder ce qu'il ce passe autour du camp ou sur les passage d'animaux repéré par les affuts.
Il est vrai que pour tout ça il faut 3 jours. Un jour d'arrivé à Rancho Margot pour prendre le poul du site (vue sur le volcan, séance de yoga...mise au point, vérif du matos et vétements de rechange, sur la rando dans la jungle. Le 2 eme Jungle et le 3eme repos avec baignade dans les torrents d'eau chaude (gratos, voir avec le guide sur place). Pour si rendre, soit avec votre véhicul, soit avec le bus de Rancho qui fait trois a/r par jour jusqu'à Lafortuna.
Pour info le guide vient en france pour les vacances de Noël, donc joignable par téléphone, sinon sur skype en direct live. (Le début de soirée pour nous = la journée pour eux)
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I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it...
Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)?
According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later).
Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Hello,
We're planning 15 days in Chiapas. We already spent 3 weeks in the Yucatán 4 years ago.
What would you recommend in Chiapas? Our idea is to rent a car so we can move around freely—there’ll be two of us.
Thanks for your tips on great places to stay, restaurants, and sights to visit!
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap.
It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!"
The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this!
Philippe
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips.
I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize.
We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days.
So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides?
Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.
Marilyne
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Hello,
We’re heading to Playa del Carmen for two weeks in August with our 4-year-old child.
We’ve seen that you can visit places like Tulum or Cozumel on your own using colectivos. For Coba, we’re hesitant to go alone because we’d like to see the cenotes and the Mayan village.
But we’d prefer to find a French-speaking agency that guarantees small-group tours, especially for Sian Ka’an.
We’d rather avoid the "mimi tours" even though they’re recommended by a lot of people and the *Guide du Routard*, based on the reviews we’ve read.
I’m interested in the agency Muuch Ximbal, which seems to offer slightly different outings. There’s also H and L Tours or Delphine Fautré’s agency (though the last two don’t list excursion prices). We also found Promomaya, but apparently, they don’t have an on-site agency.
Do you have any tips or other agencies to recommend?
We’d also like to swim with dolphins but outside of the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks. Do you know of other ways to swim with them, maybe even in the open sea???
I’ve also seen that it’s possible to swim with whale sharks—is this doable with a 4-year-old who doesn’t like putting her head underwater yet? Have any of you done it? This excursion is quite expensive, and I’d be okay with swimming with them, but just sailing on a boat without being able to see them would be disappointing.
PS: Our Spanish isn’t very good.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22.
We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short.
So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day
- Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán
- Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover:
Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22.
Actually, I have a few questions:
Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough?
We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it.
Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market.
We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day?
We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees.
We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive.
Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost.
Thanks so much for your help!
Annick
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua
Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel
Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel
Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ??
Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores
Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores
Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores
Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough.
Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day?
I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times:
- How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please?
I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕.
Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus?
Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU
PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t.
No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto
- The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul
- The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán
- Antigua, very touristy but beautiful
- Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy).
So, we’re leaning toward something like this:
- Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city)
- Puebla: 3 days
- Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?)
- Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours)
- Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala.
Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua
- Atitlán
- Lanquín
- Río Dulce
- El Remate – Flores
- Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín
- Lanquín – Río Dulce
- Río Dulce – El Remate
- Flores – Guatemala City
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are:
- Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier?
- Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things:
- **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island?
- **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend?
- **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car.
Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour.
Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum.
Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view).
Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera.
End the day at Playa Paraíso.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal.
Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal.
Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen.
Evening on 5th Avenue.
Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino).
Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min).
Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos.
Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport.
Return rental car. Return flight.
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cozumel
- Holbox
- Valladolid
- Tulum
- Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José.
Thanks for your help!
A fantastic trip, dominated by the Altiplano, volcanoes, and especially the Mayan people!
Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua
I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over.
In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans.
Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy!
Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall.
The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different.
We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.
Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!
