bonjour,
j'ai élaboré mon voyage avec l'aide des gens du forum (merci raoulx, baha54 et les autres) donc si en retour ce modeste carnet peut aider quelqu'un...bonne lecture...
Soleil : 5H20/17H40
Jour 1 (samedi 25 octobre) Marrakech : arrivée
Hotel Toulousain (propre, reception pas tres aimable, ch 15 assez grande)
diner chez bej gueni rue ibn aicha (sympa, copieux, pas cher)
Jour 2 (dimanche 26 octobre)
8h visite des jardins Majorelle (3/4 heure)
Quartier des tanneurs (bab el dabbagh avec guide local)
Medina
Dejeuner medina (resto el badi tres bien)
Medina
Palais bahia
Palais el badi
Tombeaux saadiens
Minaret koutoubia
voiture de loc : medloc 061 18 13 89
Place jemaa el fna diner sur la place resto toubkal (tres bien, pas cher)
Jour 3 (lundi 27 octobre)
Depart 7H (route 4h 30)
Repas 13H ait ben haddou auberge maktoub (pas terrible)
Visite ait ben haddou avec guide local
Depart 15 heures (route 2H30)
Nuit et diner tamnougalt (excellent rapport qualite prix tres grande chambre avec sdb n° 21)
Kasbah Itrane 024-84-33-17
Jour 4 (mardi 28 octobre)
Depart 7h30
Visite Ksar tamnougalt + quartier juif (mellah)
Depart 10h00
4x4 avec chauffeur : Hammadi razgui 068 76 56 66 (pas mal mais on doit pouvoir trouver mieux)
Vallee du draa 4x4
Passage zagora, visite Tamghrout, médina souterraine, bibli, échoppes de potiers. Dune de tinfou
Repas midi dans un snack à zagora
Nuit et diner tamnougalt kasbah itrane
Jour 5 (mercredi 29 octobre)
Transfert merzouga Route 5 h30
Passage n’kob visite boutique Brahim Naji (sortie de n’kob à gauche petit panneau rectangulaires fossiles et mineraux tres sympa) et
tazzarine (visite souk (sympa pas de touristes, tres typique, 1H45 depuis tamnougalt)
rencontre au villager d’Ifard dans le desert apres Tazzarine (30mn de piste)
àdepart Ifard 14H00
(Tazzarine merzouga : 3h30 max)
Merzouga guest house 035 57 72 99 (tres bonne adresse, chambre gigantesque, tres bon rapport qualite prix – chambre 7)
Jour 6 (jeudi 30 octobre)
Lever 4h, excursion chameau
Visite de la palmeraie avec said de la merzouga guest house (tres interessant mais un peu cher)
Visite du lac dayet srji
Transfert tinerhir (4 heures) repas à tinejdad jardins ferkla ( tres bien, pas cher et copieux)
Gorges du todra (2heures)
Palmeraie tinerhir (rencontrer said sur le grand parking avant les gorges, la ou il y a les dromadaires, visite inoubliable de la palmeraie et du village de Tinerhir en sa compagnie)
Hotel amazir : cher pour le service propose !!! Pas de chauffage, nous avons eu tres froid, couvertures et draps trop petits…… a evite
Jour 7 (vendredi 31 octobre) Gorges dades jusqu'à msemrir (5 heures A/R)
Repas à hotel manader boulmane (tres correct)
Cooperative du poignard a l’entree el kalaa
Visite palmeraie à el kalaa + ksars en ruine, tres sympa
Kasbah itran à el kalla m gouna (super accueil, chambre petite mais decoree avec gout, soiree au son des djembes avec le personnel… tres bien)
Jour 8 (samedi 1 novembre) Retour marrakech route (7h)
Visite de la kasbah taourirt avec guide officiel
Retour dans les souks de marrakech
Diner au dar mima : excellent et excellent accueil mais pas facile a trouver
nuit riad aladdin (chambre petite, grande baignoire : m’a semble cher par rapport a ce que l’on a vecu avant !!)
Jour 9 (dimanche 2 novembre)
Marrakech : cooperative artisanale + retour avion
salut
chaque jour avec des visites de boutiques et coopérative.???
combiens de kilométres de pistes avez vous fait avec ce chauffeur et en 4*4 ?
normalent il faut que ce soit 80 pour cent de piste de votre circuit !
au maroc il faut faire des pistes pour retrouver le trésor du pays .
Nous avons fait 3 cooperatives : celle de tamgroute, celle de el kalaa et celle de marrakech
Avec les guides, ni cooperatives, ni boutiques, quand on demande a un guide local de nous accompagner, il suffit de lui dire au depart qu'il est hors de question de visiter cooperative et boutiques, c'est comme pour le prix de la prestation.
quand les choses sont claires au depart, pas de problemes, les marocains ont une parole
En 4x4 on a fait tout le trajet par la piste, entre tamnougalt et zagora.
Derniere chose, je voulais juste rendre service, si c'est pour se faire critiquer par le premier venu, ce n'est pas forcement agreable et je pense que je vais garder mon carnet de voyage pour moi.
Le tourisme fait vivre de nombreuses personnes dans ce pays et il n'y a pas a etre gene d'y avoir fait un voyage d'agrement.
Je ne suis pas sur que faire des dons soit la meilleure facon d'aider le pays meme si je l'ai fait moi meme et le referai probablement. Il est preferable d'aller dans les cooperatives voir travailler les artisans et acheter leur travail qui est souvent splendide, faire travailler les agences locales et surtout refuser la mendicite directe.
Enfin, je ne me rappelle pas que Mauras m'ait beaucoup repondu quand j'ai prepare mon voyage, ni quand j'ai demande comment emporter des vetements. Il ne m'a pas non plus aide a prendre contact avec l'ecole d'Ifard avec qui je suis desormais en contact.
Si c'est pour se manifester maintenant avec des reponses acerbes, ce n'est pas la peine.
Pascal
Merci Pascal & Catherine pour votre "petit" 😛carnet de voyage.
Perso j'y ai retrouvé-outre le plaisir de revisiter ce superbe pays- 2 adresses pratiquées voici 2 ans :"la Kasbah Itrane" à El kelaa ( déco ravissante, ambiance de la soirée au son des djembes, vue superbe sur le vieux ksar et la vallée ainsi que "Les jardins de Tamnougalt ".(était-ce bien à la Kasbah Itrane que vous avez logé à Tamnougalt ? 😊
Concernant votre appréciation sur Hotel Toulousain, c'est bon à savoir...
Quant à "nuit riad aladdin (chambre petite, grande baignoire : m’a semblé cher par rapport a ce que l’on a vécu avant !!)" : ce sont les prix de Marrakech ! !
Vous avez une jolie réserve de rêves !
bonjour,
oui c'etait bien a la kasbah itrane.
Pour l'hotel toulousain c'est un peu vetuste mais propre et pour le prix (17euros la nuit avec petit dej), tant pis pour le sourire. J'en ai parle avec un ami marocain qui a deja ressenti cela dans cet hotel vis a vis des europeens...dommage.
Pour Tamnougalt, petit oubli : c'etait bien la kasbah itrane: accueil tres sympathique de la gerante, nourriture tres bonne et prix tout doux.
J'en reviens aux excursions en 4x4 : c'est le plus mauvais moment de notre voyage : nous nous sommes promenes en 4x4 sur la piste de la vallee du Draa dans une zone d'une extreme pauvrete. Paysages magnifiques certes mais nous etions fort mal a l'aise dans notre 4x4 de nababs avec ces enfants qui courraient derriere pour avoir des stylos, bonbons ou autres... une expérience dont on se serait passes. Je ne suis pas sur que le 4x4 soit le meilleur moyen de decouvrir le maroc. c'est un tourisme de masse qui remplace ou complete les bus fram !!! D'ailleurs nous avons croise plus de touristes sur cette petite piste que durant le reste du voyage avec notre voiture de location. On y entasse les touristes qui parfois daignent entrouvrir la vitre pour jeter negligemment quelques stylos ou bonbons....quelle horreur.
La route de Zagora etait coupee par l'oued en crue lorsque nous sommes arrives. Le chauffeur ne comprenait pas que l'on veuille s'arreter pour prendre des marocains a bord afin de les aider a traverser..... il ne devait pas etre habitue a ce genre d'attitude.
Sur la route boulmane dades/el kalaa quelques villages avec des mellah en ruine : eviter de s'arreter: nous avons ete caillasses par les enfants dans un village; ce sont les adultes qui sont intervenus pour les chasser et ont d'ailleurs ete tres prevenants. Voila ce qui peut arriver quand on choisit de pas donner ouvertement stylos ou bonbons. Je pense que l'on peut faire des dons au maroc pour aider les populations mais des dons discrets pas des jets negligents de bonbons ou stylos par la portiere !!!! J'en reviens a certains propos sur le forum: plutot que de donner, utilisons les services des marocains, achetons de l'artisanat et payons cela au juste prix c'est le meilleur service que l'on peut leur rendre.
Bonjour !
Je comprends que vous auriez préférer éviter certaines situations ...
Au Maroc, nous voyageons toujours en voiture de tourisme et nous n'avons connu qu'une seule fois, en 86, ce phénomène de l'hostilité des enfants : près de Amtoudi, un endroit merveilleux que nous reverrons avec plaisir lors de notre prochain périple, octobre 🙂 . .
Je me suis rendu compte que j'aurais dû relire mon GdR avant de vous demander s'il n'y avait pas confusion avec avec la kasbah Itrane à Tamnougalt...
Ne dit-on pas "tourner sa langue 7x dans sa bouche " ! 😎
"Le chauffeur ne comprenait pas que l'on veuille s'arreter pour prendre des marocains a bord afin de les aider a traverser..... il ne devait pas etre habitue a ce genre d'attitude. ": cela m'a évoqué un passage du film "Babel"(qui m'avait bcp plu). Bonsoir. 🙂
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Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.