Nous prévoyons un voyage en Egypte, le Soudan et l'Ethiopie
mais nous avons quelques doutes
Le visa Assouan, combien de temps cela prend-il? un jour, deux jours, trois ...
Le ferry part dimanche ou lundi?
comme je l'ai lu dans un autre forum, il est une nouvelle route entre l'Egypte et le Soudan, est ouvert tous les jours? Ils peuvent traverser la frontière pour elle étrangère? toute autorisation spéciale est requise (ne pas porter voiture ou moto)
Une fois dans le Wadi Halfa. Il ya le transport local à Karima?, Combien de temps cela prend? routes sont bonnes? ou vous pouvez louer une voiture pour vous emmener?
Enfin, Conoceis quelqu'un dans Wadi Halfa confiance pour passer la nuit, ou louer une voiture
Si quelqu'un sait aucune réponse se il vous plaît nous répondre sur ce fil,
Ces pays font aussi partie de mes préoccupations du moment (j' ai une Land Rover depuis 3 ans en Afrique Australe, actuellement au Malawi, monte vers Juin / Juillet jusqu' au Kenya, et Ethiopie Soudan Egypte fait partie de mes options..
Sans vouloir froisser personne, je ne suis pas sur que tu trouves sur VF toutes les infos que tu souhaites...
Comment te déplaces-tu ?
Si tu es angliciste, tu peux consulter avec bonheur les sites suivants:
www.horizonsunlimited.com (site d' origine Américaine, au départ des bikers mais entretemps fréquenté par d' autres usagers..
www.4x4community.co.za (site Sud Africain, il y a entre autres un membre éminent qui prépare avec grand soin un voyage Afrique du Sud / Egypte avec départ en Avril)
Si (mais c'est plus rare) tu es germaniste, tu as des infos très pertinentes et fiables sur:
www.wuestenschiff.de
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Jose,
Par quel moyen de transport te déplaces-tu?
De combien de temps disposes-tu pour traverser le Soudan du Nord (le sud, ce n'est pas possible actuellement trop dangereux)?
Que comptes -tu visiter dans ce pays?
Dans le transport local ou louer une voiture
5-6 jours
Avez-vous voyagé récemment il
Il est facile de voyager?
comme ce est la situation au Soudan North, Road Wadi Halfa à Khartoum, est sûr?
Jose, Mon voyage date de 2011 et nous avions pris un tour operateur local. Cela s'est très bien passé. Il y avait pratiquement aucun touriste. (en 2011, il y a eu 2000 touristes au soudan seulement)
5 à 6 jours pour traverser le soudan , c'est très court: tu ne vois rien. Les routes sont bonnes de wadi Halfa à Khartoum en passant par la rive droite du Nil. tu vas jusqu'à dongola et tu traverses le désert jusqu'à Krt, ou tu continues jusqu'à Karima, tu traverses le Nil pour rejoindre Atbara puis Krt.
Je peux t'envoyer en MP les coordonnées d'un TO local natif de Wadi Halfa qui pourra te donner plus d'informations à jour.
il pourra peut-être t'aider dans tes recherches.
Quant à la situation, la police est partout et les routes sont sûres dans le nord. Il est difficile de se déplacer car il faut se présenter aux postes de police de chacune des grandes villes que tu traverses.
S'il n'est pas trop tard pour te répondre, je viens de compléter la traversée Aswan-Wadi Halfa suivi de la frontière Galahabat/Metema fin septembre, début octobre 2016. J'ai même une petite vidéo qui couvre le sujet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4JaNdUz644
1. Le visa soudanais s'obtient facilement à Aswan. La haute commission est ouverte dimanche, lundi, mardi et jeudi. Vendredi et samedi sont les jours de la fin de semaine en Égypte. Lorsque j'y suis passé, le délai de traitement était de 5 jours et le coût 40 USD. Pas besoin d'avoir une "introduction letter", juste mettre que le sponsor au Soudan c'est l'ambassade de ton pays.
2. Le moyen le plus rapide et le moins variable pour se rendre à Wadi Halfa à partir d'Aswan est de prendre la route et le traversier qui relie Abu Simbel à Qustul. Voici les détails du trajet:
- 250 km par la route jusqu'à Abu Simbel
- 1 heure de traversier jusqu'à Qustul
- 45 km jusqu'à la frontière Égypte/Soudan
- 40 km jusqu'à Wadi Halfa
Il y a un convoi militaire à 4h00 AM et 11h00 AM qui part de Aswan vert Abu Simbel. Tous les véhicules, même les autobus, partent avec ce convoi. Il existe des compagnies d'autobus qui font le trajet jusqu'à Wadi Halfa. Il ne suffit que d'aller au terminus d'autobus d'Aswan et de demander des infos.
Le premier traversier quitte à 8h00 Abu Simbel avec les employés de la douane. Le dernier départ doit se faire entre 12h00 et 14h00. Il n'y a pas d'horaire fixe. Le bateau n'est pas très gros et ne permet pas d'accueillir toute la lignée de camions probablement présente. Cependant, les gestionnaires du traversier priorisent d'abord les autobus, ensuite les véhicules personnels et finalement les autobus.
Je n'ai pas pris le bateau qui quitte les dimanches Aswan pour Wadi Halfa.
3. Le visa éthiopien est facile à obtenir à l'ambassade de l'Éthiopie à Khartoum même sans permis de résidence. Cela est une affaire d'une heure ou deux en fonction du nombre de gens. Tout est là s'il manque quelque chose (photocopieuse, photos format passeport etc.).
4. La frontière Galahabat/Metema est poreuse et simple à passer. Du côté soudanais, on retrouve plusieurs lokandas pour dormir. Du côté éthiopien, ce sont plutôt des bars et des hôtels. Les gens de l'endroit circulent beaucoup à pied entre les deux pays (ils vont faire des emplettes d'un côté ou de l'autre de la frontière sans que les douaniers ne bronchent. Impossible d'avoir un visa à l'arrivée par contre d'un côté comme de l'autre pour un passeport européen ou canadien.
Fred,
je viens de regarder ta vidéo: mais qu'as tu vu du soudan? Que du bitume et des locandas. Pourquoi fais tu du vélo? Pour te dégourdir les jambes? je ne suis pas politiquement correct, mais je ne comprends pas ce désir de traverser l'Afrique en circulant sur de grands axes sans s'en écarter. Es-tu actuellement en Ethiopie? quelle est la situation puisque tu passes par des régions qui semblent en proie à des soulèvements de la population contre le gouvernement. Cela peut intéresser des touristes qui envisagent d'aller visiter ce magnifique pays.
cordialement.
Depuis le 9 octobre dernier, le gouvernement éthiopien a déclaré l'état d'urgence. Ce que ça signifie pour les touristes (du moins par rapport à ce que j'ai vécu) c'est que l'internet est bloqué à peu près partout. Certains wifis d'hôtels persistent, mais les réseaux sociaux sont tous bloqués. Le réseau téléphonique (opéré par Ethio Tel) n'offre plus de service de données (les 2G, 3G et 4G sont bloqués eux aussi).
Autrement, côté sécurité, je ne me suis jamais senti en danger. Les couvre-feu ne sont pas respectés (il est théoriquement interdit de se retrouver proche des installations gouvernementales et des sièges d'entreprises après 18h00) et la police ne se méfie pas de ma présence. Le seul incident que j'ai vécu est lorsque la population commence à se regrouper dans le but de manifester contre le gouvernement. Il suffit simplement de s'éloigner de la foule et de ne pas du tout s'en mêler car c'est dans ces situations que la police se met à tirer sur les gens.
Je recommande donc d'aller en Éthiopie malgré la situation politique puisque je ne crois pas que cela affecte l'expérience touristique. J'ai pédalé de Metema jusqu'à Addis Ababa et n'ai toujours pas vécu de situations dangereuses dans les régions d'Amhara et d'Oromia.
Pour ce qui est de ma façon de voyager, j'ai fait le choix de faire du vélo de long des grands axes pour réaliser un exploit sportif. En effet, choisir de pédaler aussi rapidement avec comme objectif le Cap en Afrique du Sud est une décision qui implique énormément de sacrifices. Cependant, c'est une nouvelle façon de voyager que j'expérimente. Je considère ce voyage comme une croisière à travers l'Afrique c'est à dire que je passe à travers des lieux en goûtant un tout petit peu à ce qu'ils ont à m'offrir pour mieux y revenir plus tard.
Fred,
Question quant à la durée du visa soudanais obtenu à Assouan. Je lis ici ou là qu'il ne serait que de 14 jours au lieu de 1 mois pour celui délivré au Caire. Tu confirmes ?
J'ai obtenu un visa de 30 jours entrée unique à Aswan. Une autre personne venue chercher son visa la même journée que moi en a obtenu un de 90 jours multi-entrées après en avoir fait la demande. Donc, j'imagine qu'ils sont en mesure de te fournir le visa qui te convient. Chaque cas semble complètement différent cependant, c'est difficile de généraliser.
Fred,
Merci pour ta réponse. tu as précisé tes choix qui te sont personnels. Descends tu vers le Kenya actuellement? Après la région des lacs le long du rift, tu vas plonger vers le désert dès que tu te rapproches de la frontière. C'est une autre Afrique que tu vas rencontrer. Le nord Kenya ne sera peut-être pas de tout repos.
Bonne continuation.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Soudan / Égypte · 2 replies
Est ce qu'il est possible de passer la frontière de l'Egypte vers le soudan par la route qui longe la Mer Rouge en direction de Port Soudan? sinon comment se…
Je suis actuellement au nord du nord soudan. J'ai lu dans le journal (il y a 10 jours) que la route entre wadi halfa (soudan) et assouan (egypte) devait…
Je fais appel à vous car pour mon premier voyage en Afrique du Nord, je souhaite faire la descente du Nil en partant du Caire et pour arriver au Soudan du Nord…
Je livre à votre réflexion ce projet de voyage pour février en independant. 1) depart Paris /Louxor 2/3/4 Louxor 5) Edfou /Assouan 6/7/8/ Assouan9) Abou Simbel…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Éthiopie / Soudan / Égypte · 13 replies
Je suis au Kenya début août et je compte me rendre en Egypte par la route si possible. Cela peut-il être raisonnable, compte tenu du fait que: * Je compte…
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Connaissez vous l'adresse d'une distillerie de fleurs de roses ds la vallée des roses / kelaa M Gouna. Une distillerie traditionnelle, pas uniquement la boutique à touristes.
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!