Safety and travel in Burkina Faso
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
DJ
Hello everyone! From 2002 to 2017, I made 10 annual two-month trips to Burkina Faso, backpacking style—traveling solo (independent, self-sufficient, no agency) across the country. I happily mixed with the local population (neighborhoods, maquis, hostels, bush taxis...) and was always on the lookout for joyful, interesting exchanges. Back then, the country was peaceful, very welcoming, and any issues were always resolved with laughter, patience, and kindness!

In 2017, I was preparing to settle there for six months a year, like others do elsewhere... But in early 2018, I had an emergency medical airlift (a "welcome sign" from the skies, in hindsight—compared to what followed, the country’s negative and unpredictable evolution in recent years, plus the lasting COVID crisis...).

So, "while waiting for things to improve," I haven’t returned personally since 2018. Burkina Faso is still currently classified as a red zone ("strongly advised against for tourists") by our authorities. Though I’ve heard a few rare contradictory reports, what’s the *real* situation on the ground right now? Specifically: - General safety for Europeans - Security in the main cities - Road safety, intercity transport, and travel conditions

The current transitional president, Ibrahim Traoré, enforces strict censorship on communications (journalistic and digital networks) to the outside world... and RTB (Burkinabè television) is state-run... so...

Welcome to any fresh, recent updates from travelers or locals. Many thanks!
SA Sawadeebaht Regular ·
At this rate, a large part of Africa will soon be off-limits to us. We all know the reasons.
Toujours une fois. Au moins.
RO Rotsaka Globetrotter ·
Hi, Unfortunately, what used to be the most welcoming country in the sub-region has changed a lot due to the relentless attacks by armed groups that have disrupted its stability. Getting there and obtaining a visa seems quite feasible, and there don’t appear to be any issues on that front. However, once you're in, it’s a different story—the security situation has deteriorated so much that almost any movement outside Ouaga is risky. Jihadist cells are present throughout the country, and there are areas completely outside government control. The south/southwest is less vulnerable, but it’s still not exactly safe. In Ouaga, there’s a fairly hostile atmosphere toward France (but not toward French people *if and only if* you keep a low profile and avoid taking sides on the current political situation—so self-censor in heated discussions in *grins* since democratic space has now shrunk significantly). Outside the capital, if you’re perceived as "racialized" in BF, you become a potential target for armed terrorist groups, so be careful. It’s heartbreaking, but for me, traveling to BF as a tourist? Not right now.
VO Voyajou Globetrotter ·
Hi, I share Rotsaka’s view—he’s like a lookout in this part of the continent 😉. It’s not happening anytime soon that we’ll be able to travel like you used to in Burkina, let alone Mali. If your plan to spend a few months a year in this region is still on, I’d suggest looking toward Togo, to the south. Sure, the climate and vegetation are more tropical than equatorial, and it’s a small country, but *
DJ Djembolito ·
A huge thank you to my contacts for your incredibly valuable advice. I’d also love to hear from other travelers who’ve recently returned from Burkina or are currently living there, or even from their families back home. Though I suspect the latter might not know about this site, and others likely have more pressing needs than spending their scarce CFA francs on an unstable Wi-Fi connection. That’s understandable.

I also really enjoyed the film *Timbuktu* back in the day, featuring the amazing (especially for the African diaspora) singer Fatoumata Diawara. It realistically portrays the early stages of the discreet yet progressive invasion of the Malian Sahel... including Timbuktu.

Actually, I’d planned my first African trip in 2002 specifically to Côte d’Ivoire because of my personal passion for traditional music and dance. But at the time I wanted to go, there was a civil war happening! Some African friends then suggested Burkina Faso. So, I organized a one-month trip there—pure chance, really—as a tourist.

Of course, you always get scammed at first, with a smile (!), when you’re a "newbie." You’re spotted from a mile away, especially as a *nassara* in a tourist herd with the full getup. It’s all part of the game. You often get lost in big African cities because all the working-class neighborhoods look alike. It’s exactly the same for them back home—minus the scams, plus rain, cold, and everything being upside down! Welcome to our world!

But I was immediately charmed (for no reason—you can’t control attraction!) by several aspects that would take too long to explain, despite the country’s already sad state at the time.

So, I went back for longer stays, year after year!

After that, I was no longer "THE tourist." I knew the codes. I should mention that I could’ve visited other neighboring countries each time, but once you return, you develop habits, relationships, and landmarks... you’re drawn back. You feel a bit at ease and free, with respect.

Today, of course, everything has changed in terms of security, especially for us French. I definitely couldn’t walk back to my accommodation as calmly as I did back then—completely alone, in the middle of the night (rarely!), down a silent, deserted avenue in Ouaga.

That was in 2005...
VO Voyajou Globetrotter ·
But I was immediately charmed (for no reason... you can't control attraction!) by several aspects that would take too long to explain, despite the (already) sad general state of the country at the time.

It’d be great if you could share more—we’ve got time. 🙂

... Togo, in the south. Sure, the climate and vegetation are more tropical than equatorial

Have my folks lost their bearings from switching hemispheres too often? Of course not—it’s the opposite! 🏴‍☠️
DT Dtadls ·
Hi everyone, I’m Canadian, from Quebec more specifically. My last trip to Ouaga was in January 2020. A French friend of mine was recently denied a visa. My Burkinabè partner, who’s a teacher, told me that the embassy is recommending French nationals return to France because they won’t be held responsible if anything goes wrong. I myself had an unregistered house I was renting in Kamboisin near the French base. The Burkinabè army took over the base and leveled everything around it. Long live IB.

Have a good day, everyone.
DJ Djembolito ·
Hi there, I’m French, living in Provence. I really appreciated your summary about Burkina Faso (Bkna). It highlights some important similarities between us, following your stay in 2020. Mine dates back to mid-2017 (with a visa planned for a very long stay at the time), after an emergency medical air repatriation. Haven’t been back since... Between my "recovery" here, the growing local insecurity, and the successive unstable governments, Burkina Faso has changed... I made 11 annual trips there starting in 2002. The country was gradually becoming my adopted home and, above all, remained CALM and safe! Like you, I had a few simple, well-thought-out projects during all my years of activity: I was considering retirement and settling down with my Burkinabè partner (who’s still there), starting with renting a place, just "to see" how things would go on all levels... Meanwhile (since 2018!), I’ve remained a carefully distanced but STILL very WELL and UP-TO-DATE INFORMED observer, especially from reliable sources. So, in the meantime, IB has taken hold, progressively influencing and censoring its people, who have become anti-French as a result, like in Mali, Niger, and more recently Chad... Others will follow... In addition to the long-established silent Chinese and Lebanese communities in Burkina Faso, the very, very wealthy Russia (with its gas, oil, diamonds, gold, uranium, copper, aluminum, cobalt, and many other rare minerals...) is setting up shop (with its visible "Wagner" forces). A new colonizer is replacing the old, now impoverished one (along with the also very discreet Iran and Turkey!!!), which was "politely asked" to leave quickly, with its embassy and consulate stoned and set ablaze. Bye bye! Nevertheless, in the case of the very RARE presence of French tourists in the country now, since this place is more associative than touristic, and especially if problems arise, where would the few remaining French people turn (as you accurately described)? In the past, Blaise, with European and international "aid/funds," paid certain terrorist groups at the borders to keep things quiet at home! Today, it’s STRONGLY ADVISED against criticizing the government (under penalty of disappearance...). JB has compartmentalized the internet, imposed censorship, and some investigative journalists from Burkina Faso have been eliminated or disappeared... (same as with Blaise!). The silent population feels oppressed. I think you’re well aware of all this, since you already owned an undeveloped plot there: it’s nothing but major disappointments for us now. Shall we keep exchanging our impressions and any fresh updates about the country? Talk soon?

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