Here’s a recap of our self-drive trip in Tanzania.
Tanzania is a stunning country, but it’s changing fast, which means that any self-drive info you gather in advance might be outdated by the time you travel.
Still, here’s some info for future self-drivers.
The vehicle:
After lots of research, thinking, and calculations, we had our 4x4 with roof tents shipped from South Africa through our rental company of two years, Safari4x4Hire. The price for 31 days came to $247.00 per day. That’s cheaper than some Tanzanian rental companies (Shawsafaris: $380.00 per day, total with 18% tax) and just a little more expensive than others (Tanzanian Pionners), but with the guarantee of having a well-maintained and reliable vehicle. You can check out the discussion I started: here
Traffic:
The speed limit is 80 km/h on roads and 50 km/h in villages. Watch out—there are lots of police checks at village entrances (speed radar). In villages and towns, also be careful with minibuses, which are everywhere and stop and start without signaling. As for paved roads, most are in good condition, and many tracks are brand new or being renovated (the Chinese are in the area!).
Campsites:
It’s very easy to find a spot in Tanzanian campsites (few self-drivers), so no need to book in advance (we were often alone in campsites outside the parks). Inside the parks, it’s easy to book public campsites at the gates. With roof tents, the downside is that sites are usually designed for travelers with ground tents, but we always found space for our vehicle. Another downside is making a fire—it’s nearly impossible to find wood (Tanzanians don’t usually make fires for cooking or ambiance). Campsite prices outside the parks range from $5.00 to $15.00 (price with 18% tax). I’ll list the prices for campsites inside the parks below.
Food:
There are very few supermarkets in Tanzania, and prices can be steep if you’re not careful (European brands). For fruits and vegetables, you can easily find roadside vendors. For other groceries, you can shop at supermarkets (Dar es Salaam, Arusha). In Arusha, there’s a brand-new Shoppers Supermarket—clean and well-stocked—and for meat, don’t hesitate to visit the Meat King butcher. It’s also often possible to eat well at campsites with restaurants for around $10.00 (price with 18% tax).
Some other info:
1. At gas stations, you almost always pay in cash, usually in Tanzanian shillings.
2. Park entries, campsites, and Ngorongoro are paid with a card (Visa, etc.) directly at the gates. Exception: Selous, where you need a permit in advance (we didn’t have one when we arrived at the north gate, but we were still able to enter thanks to the kindness of the gate attendant).
3. Watch out—some regions outside the parks have a tax: the Wildlife Management Fee. Payment is a bit unclear:
- For Lake Chala, we paid at the gate in cash.
- For Lake Natron, you can’t pay at the gate—we had to arrange it with the campsite.
- For the area between Tarangire Gate and Lake Burungi (to reach a campsite), you can’t pass the gate without paying in Arusha first.
4. For divers, you can do amazing dives in Pangani with Kasa Divers.
Park entry and campsite prices in July/August 2018:
Saadani National Park:
Park entry per person: $30 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Arusha National Park:
Park entry per person: $45 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
We slept outside the park.
Serengeti National Park:
Park entry per person: $60 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
We couldn’t get a night in a Special Campsite.
Ngorongoro Conservation Area:
Park entry per person: $60 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Night at Special Campsite per person: $60 + 18%
Descent into the crater for vehicle: $250 + 18% (you don’t need a guide to go into the crater).
Tarangire National Park:
Park entry per person: $45 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Ruaha National Park:
Park entry per person: $30 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%
Selous Game Reserve:
Park entry per person: $75 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $50 + 18% (for 24 hours)
Night at public campsite per person: $30 + 18%
(You don’t need a guide to visit Selous, but a GPS with the Tracks4Africa map is essential—there are lots of tracks).
Conclusion:
We loved the northern parks, but they’re really crowded, especially with safari vehicles (though that does make it easier to spot wildlife—just follow the cars). Still, we preferred the southern parks—they’re wilder, less crowded, and almost no safari vehicles. In the campsites, you can often find yourself alone (just how we like it 😏!). But both north and south have amazing wildlife and friendly people!
If you’re interested in more info about Tanzania, I’d be happy to help.
Yes, August is an excellent time in Tanzania for wildlife viewing, especially for tracking the Great Migration. The trails are dry and as passable as possible, and the wildlife is concentrated around the few remaining water sources. The weather is great—no rain—and the temperatures during the austral winter (July-August-September) are cooler than in summer (January-February-March). The only downside for birdwatchers is that January-February might be better due to the presence of migratory birds from the Western Palearctic.
The only downside is the crowds—it’s the busiest time of the year. But there are nearly deserted parks like Mkomazi in the north or Katavi in the south. And in massive parks like Ruaha (over 20,000 km²) or Serengeti (nearly 15,000 km²), a good driver should still be able to find you some peaceful spots.
I don’t know much about Botswana and Zimbabwe, where we only did a safari. And I’ve never been to Namibia with its stunning landscapes or Uganda with its legendary shoebills and incredible gorillas.
But I can still tell you that Tanzania can offer you what you’ve never had/seen anywhere else: the Great Migration on the endless plains of the Serengeti, the fine sandy beaches of Lake Tanganyika with its perfect water temperature and a multitude of colorful fish, Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak, the crocodiles of Katavi in their dens and the hippos piled up in their wallows, the baobabs of Ruaha and Tarangire, the 300 km² of the Ngorongoro Crater with its unmatched wildlife density, the islands of Zanzibar. And, last but not least, more bird species—1,134 (and more endemics with 53)—than in any other African country.
Yes, August is a great time to explore Tanzania: this year, temperatures ranged between 30/35°C during the day. The nights aren’t as cold as in Namibia or Botswana, except at Ngorongoro. We still had some rain at the end of July and beginning of August, which gave us stunning colors for photos. The tracks were a bit wet but passable.
Tanzania is also lucky to have such varied landscapes. You can relax under palm trees and snorkel with a multitude of small fish in Pangani. Venture into the virgin forest and spot Colobus monkeys in Arusha Park. Discover magnificent volcanoes like Kilimanjaro with its eternal snows (in July/August it’s completely white), Mount Meru overlooking the city and Arusha Park, the Lake Natron region with its many volcanoes, its salt lake, and its sand tornadoes (a very photogenic area). And of course, Ngorongoro with its high concentration of animals, not to mention Empakaai and its alkaline lake, and Lake Chala. The vast plains of the Serengeti for its predators (easy to find—just follow the lodge vehicles), its huge herds of buffalo, and for the Great Migration. August isn’t the best time for that, though—most of the big herds were already in the Mara for us, but we still managed to see a few stragglers near the Grumeti. There are also the baobabs and elephants of Tarangire Park with its high concentration of animals. And of course, the wilder southern parks like Ruaha with its baobabs, its campsites by the river, and its stunning sunsets, not to mention its large number of animals. Finally, the beautiful landscapes of Selous with its lakes, palm trees, green plains, huge crocodiles, hippos, and of course its wild dogs. The scenery along the roads is also very varied—mountains, plains, small villages, etc. Well, I haven’t been to Uganda, so I don’t know if it’s similar to Tanzania!
Cheers!
PS: I think our rental company in South Africa, Safari4x4Hire, now has a depot and cars in Dar es Salaam. A lot of people thought our way of traveling was awesome and took photos of our car. I’ll be able to ask for a discount on our next rental with all this free advertising! 😛
Yes, August is a good time to explore Tanzania: this year, temperatures ranged between 30/35°C during the day. The nights aren’t as cold as in Namibia or Botswana, except at Ngorongoro. We still had some rain at the end of July and beginning of August, which gave us magnificent colors for photos. The tracks were a bit wet but passable.
It was particularly hot for the season—30-35°C is above the seasonal norm, especially for the northern parks, which are 1,000 meters above sea level. No doubt the infernal El Niño/La Niña duo is still causing trouble. You were lucky with the sky for photos; you often have to go later in the season to get those gorgeous stormy skies with *yum* lighting!
Tanzania also has the advantage of offering very diverse landscapes. You can relax under palm trees and snorkel with a multitude of small fish in Pangani. Venture into the virgin forest and spot Colobus monkeys in Arusha National Park. Discover magnificent volcanoes like Kilimanjaro and its eternal snows (in July/August, it’s completely white), Mount Meru overlooking the city and Arusha Park, the Lake Natron region with its many volcanoes, its salt lake, and sand tornadoes (a very photogenic area), and of course, Ngorongoro with its high concentration of animals—don’t forget Empakaai and its alkaline lake, and Lake Chala. The vast plains of the Serengeti for its predators (easy to find, just follow the lodge vehicles), its huge herds of buffalo, though for the Great Migration, August isn’t the best time. For us, the big herds were already in the Mara, but we still managed to see a few stragglers near the Grumeti. There are also the baobabs and elephants of Tarangire National Park with its high concentration of animals. And of course, the wilder southern parks like Ruaha with its baobabs, riverside campsites, and stunning sunsets—plus its large wildlife population. And to finish, the magnificent landscapes of Selous with its lakes, palm trees, green plains, big crocodiles, hippos, and of course, its African wild dogs. The scenery along the roads is also very varied—mountains, plains, small villages, etc.
You really know how to make our mouths water—what a tease! I’m probably not the only one eagerly waiting for your travel journal. Self-drive accounts for Tanzania are so rare. So, dare I say, "go for it"? Come on, I’ll take the plunge 😉!
Have a great day (and go for it again 🙂)
BL
PS: For the Great Migration in August, the classic advice is to head to the northern Lobo area, northeast of the Serengeti, near the Mara River rather than the Western Corridor and Grumeti, which are better suited for late autumn (austral)-early winter, say from late May to July. And according to HerdTracker, that seemed to be the case this year. But the migration’s location, which depends heavily on rainfall, is far from an exact science. With nearly two million wildebeest-zebra-antelope, it doesn’t all pass through in one or two weeks, and there are always stragglers. Plus, some herds even backtrack—we saw a good part of a wildebeest herd recross the Mara just after an initial crossing where they’d lost a few, if you’ll pardon the expression...
Except it doesn’t add much compared to what I’ve already seen :/
I have less experience than you in Southern Africa and only a short trip to Tanzania, but in terms of animal density (herbivores—wildebeest migration—and big cats), I’ve never seen anything like it (and I didn’t even witness the Great Migration in Kenya/Tanzania!)
Muriel
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
PS: For the great migration in August, the classic advice is to head to the northern part of Lobo, in the northeast of the Serengeti, along the Mara River rather than the Western Corridor and the Grumeti, which are more suitable in late autumn (austral) to early winter, say from late May to July. And according to herdtracker, that seemed to be the case this year. But the location of the migration, which depends heavily on rainfall, is far from an exact science—especially since you can always count on stragglers. With nearly two million wildebeest, zebras, and antelopes, it doesn’t all pass through in one or two weeks. Plus, there are always changes of heart, herds that briefly move against the current. We even saw a large part of a wildebeest herd cross back over the Mara just after an initial crossing where they’d lost a few, if you’ll pardon the expression...
Yes, that’s what the staff at Klein's Gate told us too—it takes about 3 to 4 hours of driving to reach the Mara. Since there’s no public camping in the area, we’d have had around 7 hours of driving round-trip without any guarantee of seeing a crossing. So we gave up! Well, we knew it wasn’t the ideal time, so we’re not disappointed.
We were lucky enough to see 4 wildebeest and zebra crossings on the Mara in the northeast of the Serengeti in late August 2017 after a big storm. We even saw elephants crossing, which our guide told us was very rare.
Best regards
Elephants crossing the Mara—I can well believe that’s pretty rare. On the other hand, in the Selous Game Reserve, it can be a daily spectacle at certain times of year on the Rufiji River.
I just wanted to add a few details.
For our part, we never felt unsafe in Tanzania, even in the villages. However, it was impossible to stop without being surrounded by lots of kids who all gathered around the car.
On the other hand, we found the access tracks to the parks quite rough and tiring because they were quite long—especially Ruaha and the track from Ngorongoro to the Serengeti, which was under construction with big rocks, gravel, and only one lane to drive on (I don’t think the repairs made much of an improvement). In the Serengeti, the “tracks” were more like ruts we followed, and they were very uneven, making the car tilt dangerously—but the reward was worth it!
The paved roads are in better condition in the north than in the south because the edges are deeply eroded, creating huge curbs, not to mention the massive potholes.
We stayed 2 days in Ruaha when I had planned for more, but it was impossible to find fuel inside the park (reserved for lodge guests).
As for whether to visit Ngorongoro or not—we hesitated for a long time but ultimately didn’t regret going. We didn’t see tons of animals, but I thought the setting was magical. We traveled from September 12 to October 10 and didn’t encounter many people—just a few 4x4s.
Regarding wildlife, we saw lots of lionesses and lions up close in the Serengeti, a zebra chase in Mikumi, and a few in Ngorongoro.
As for cheetahs, tourists didn’t see any more than we did—the guides told us they’re very hard to spot. We saw on local TV that some people were arrested for possessing cheetah skins.
At the end of the trip, we took a fantastic break near Pangani—clean, warm ocean, in short, pure bliss.
Well, the adventure is finally starting here: voyageforum.com/...n-tanzanie-d9225696/ or on our site for the full text and photos: www.girardinphoto.net/...eVoyage/Accueil.html
Hi there,
I saw that you did Tanzania as a self-drive trip, which I’m planning to do next September.
What itinerary did you take and how long was your trip?
Thanks for your reply!
Have a great day,
Nathalie
We left from September 12 to October 10, 2018. It was very hot, and we really struggled with the heat because the air conditioning in our "African" car wasn’t working.
We started our trip in the south, Mikumi and Ruaha, then headed north to visit the usual parks. If we’d had a better car (we broke a wheel in the Serengeti), we would’ve added Gombe National Park, but it was a long detour, and with the heat, we decided to skip it...
In any case, it’s an amazing trip—don’t hesitate to go!
Happy planning.
We didn’t really “choose,” since there aren’t many rental companies, so we ended up with Sam’s Car Rental in Dar (we’d initially seen that AVIS was in DAR, but it was impossible to book with them—no cars available every time we tried...). Based on other travelers’ feedback, I knew their cars were junk, but our tickets were already booked... so we made do.
Thanks for your reply!
I’ve requested quotes for 4x4s with roof tents:
Fortes: $220/day (Land Rover or Land Cruiser)
Shaw Safaris: $300/day (Land Rover Defender), apparently fully equipped with insurance included.
I’ve also asked for quotes for non-camping-equipped 4x4s:
4x4 Hire: $147 for a Toyota Land Cruiser PRADO GX
driver: $65/day
Waiting for more quotes...
I’m wondering if, in the end, a 4x4 with a roof tent is worth it price-wise, especially since lodges are expensive—maybe there’s a way to find more affordable ones?
We rented a car without camping gear, and we had a small ground tent just in case we couldn’t find a room to sleep in—and especially to be inside the parks. But you should know that the campsites in the parks aren’t really designed for equipped vehicles; it’s just a simple parking lot that fills up quickly with 4x4s.
Hello,
Thanks for your reply.
About the camps inside the parks—do they still have toilets, showers, and places to eat?
In September, do you think we should book ahead or just show up at the entrance gate hoping there’s space left? I’m not sure how busy it gets that time of year.
Have a great day,
Nathalie
It depends on the camps, but the facilities aren’t great in general—you shouldn’t be too picky, especially given the price you pay! Often, you’ll have to forget about taking a nice shower after a day of safari...
There are always spots for picnics that are pretty well set up and even nice, where you can buy drinks, sandwiches, and other food at a steep price, of course.
For campsites inside the parks, you pay for the number of nights along with the park entry fee. I don’t think there’s a system to count the number of campers—at least, we were never turned away.
We didn’t book anything so we could stay flexible with our route.
I can’t really compare, but in September, there are tourists, sure, but it’s not crowded. Never more than 2 or 3 cars stopped at the key spots (more people in the north, sometimes alone in the world in the north). For the crater, we didn’t find it as much of a zoo as other travelers described. In short, no long lines of 4x4s.
On the other hand, the small parking lots at campsites in the parks fill up quickly in the evening, which can be tricky if you have a fitted 4x4.
Happy to help with any other questions—I’m currently planning Iceland for February... not the same temperatures at all!
Actually, it was mainly in the Serengeti—we stayed 5 nights, and every time our car was blocked by other 4x4s, so we worked it out with the drivers (who were really friendly, by the way) to decide who left first (I’m talking about public camps with no reservation).
We had a ground tent, so no problem for us.
But elsewhere, there was no issue with space at all.
Happy travels to everyone
We also had the Lonely Planet, the Petit Futé, and the Bradt guide, which I think is more comprehensive, but it’s in English. But the most important thing is to have a GPS with Tracks4Africa.
You can also order online—or find them on-site—the maps of the northern parks and the two books (in English): *The Tourist Travel & Field Guide of the Serengeti National Park* and *The Tourist Travel & Field Guide of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area*.
The Lonely Planet guide plus GPS on your phone with Maps.me and HERE WeGo (download maps before you leave) and then you don’t need internet.
In the parks, some are well laid out with signs, but for others you have to trust your instincts... we used a compass and my husband’s nose for direction...
I also think you absolutely need a SIM card with a Tanzanian network—it can be useful even if you don’t get coverage everywhere...
GPS is pretty handy, but I seriously doubt I’d be able to navigate the Tanzanian tracks 😉
I also think you absolutely need a SIM card with a Tanzanian network—it can be useful even if you don’t get coverage everywhere...
The GPS is pretty good, but I seriously doubt I’d be able to navigate the Tanzanian tracks 😉
It’s often when you get lost that you make the best encounters 🤗 !
Hi,
Your story really makes me want to go.
A few questions if you don’t mind.
We’re not very adventurous and we’re hesitant to organize everything ourselves. Do you know of a local agency that could arrange this trip for us?
I didn’t see Kilimanjaro in your itinerary. Is there a reason?
What budget should we plan for a month there?
Thanks for your tips.
Hello,
Your story is really inspiring.
A few questions if you don’t mind.
We’re not very adventurous and hesitate to organize everything ourselves. Do you know of a local agency that could arrange this trip for us?
Sorry, we don’t know any local agencies, but I saw in another discussion that the member https://voyageforum.com/membres/celinerou/ might have a small local agency. Otherwise, self-drive travel really isn’t that difficult.
I didn’t see Kilimanjaro in your itinerary. Is there a reason?
For us, our only hope was to photograph Kilimanjaro (not climb it), and we were lucky enough to see it from two spots on our route: Lake Chala and Kahawa Shambani Campsite in Moshi.
Check out the photos here: http://www.girardinphoto.net/piwigo/index.php?/category/1
What budget should we plan for 1 month there?
We spent around $19,000 for 4 people for 32 days, excluding flights and diving. That includes: the car, accommodations, food, park entry fees, tours, gas, taxes, visas, souvenirs, fines, and miscellaneous expenses. Just to clarify, this was our trip for our two 50th birthdays, so we didn’t really watch our budget 😊! But I’d say the price is pretty standard given all the park visits we did, like Selous and the descent into Ngorongoro, which are quite expensive.
Hey there Nathalie, I’ve finally caught up with the latest Tanzania discussion I hadn’t been following yet! 😇
I’m looking at the national park prices and, how can I put this... Wow! 😮
Thanks for sharing this valuable info, though—it’s really helpful, even if I guess these rates will keep going up year after year as visitor numbers increase.
Basically, 72 hours in the Serengeti cost as much as a year’s Wild Card in South Africa. 😄😄
What a difference!
I also notice there isn’t much of a price gap between the "southern" parks and the more popular northern ones.
Too bad! 😊
Though I guess that’s what helps prevent overcrowding and better preserve these natural parks.
Still, I’m curious: do Tanzanians have to pay the same prices to visit their own parks???? 😮
Public campgrounds aren’t cheap either.
Do you know if there are any budget-friendly camping options outside the parks to help lighten the load on the wallet? 🙂
Yes, Tanzania’s national parks are expensive, and the reserves are even pricier, but some are definitely worth it.
Entry fees for the southern parks are usually cheaper, but the cost for the vehicle and campsites is the same. Watch out—the Selous isn’t a national park but a reserve, so they charge whatever they want.
I think Tanzanians pay less for entry, but I didn’t see many visiting the parks except for the drivers!
As for campsites, you can find some between $5.00 and $15.00 outside certain parks, but the vibe isn’t the same. For the Serengeti, you’ll have to stay inside the park.
A few campsites we tried outside the parks:
- Meru Mbega Campsite, 500m from the entrance of Arusha National Park. A nice campsite (see Day_8 of the travel journal).
- Fanaka Campsites (Mto wa Mbu), just a few meters from the entrance of Lake Manyara National Park. A really cool campsite with a small pool.
- Zion Camp, a few meters from the entrance of Tarangire National Park. An average campsite.
- Chogela Campsite, about 25 km from the entrance of Ruaha National Park. A great campsite, but watch out for the road to Ruaha.
There are also campsites at the main entrance of the Selous Game Reserve. There are probably some before the entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area too.
So, here's my plan and my questions.
I'm looking to head to Tanzania in mid-August with Qatar Airways for 2 or 3 weeks—I haven’t finalized everything yet.
I want to arrive in Dar Es Salaam, rent a 4x4, and hit the road for a road trip.
I did a simulation on a site, and for 17 days, it’s around 900 € for a Rav4 rental.
Would this vehicle be enough for what I want to do?
I’d like to be as free as possible and avoid guides, but it seems they’re mandatory for some parks.
The prices are sky-high, and the vehicle’s mileage is limited to 120 km per day.
My plan is to leave from Dar Es Salaam, head north, spend at least 2 days in the Serengeti, then tackle Kilimanjaro.
After that, I’d go down to visit the main parks, including the Crater, and finish with a few days in Zanzibar.
I have a few questions:
Do I *have* to have a guide? If so, for which parks?
What exactly am I paying for with the guide? Do I also cover their hotel nights?
What’s the base rate for a guide?
Do I have to take their vehicle, or can I keep mine?
I’d really like to save as much as possible on this part because, honestly, it’s more of a hassle for me—I love being free and going wherever I feel like at the last minute.
Thanks in advance for any tips or advice—I’ve read the 3 pages but I’m still struggling to wrap my head around it all.
We were in Tanzania in January–February this year, self-driving with our own car. We know southern African countries well, so Tanzania was a real discovery for us.
It was absolutely fantastic. But for a trip like yours, if you're not very experienced, I’d recommend a local agency in ARUSHA or MOSHI with a Parks + Zanzibar package. Two weeks for the northern parks and Kilimanjaro, and a week in ZANZIBAR. Right now, prices should be good, and agencies will know what’s open or closed due to COVID.
The north isn’t really set up for self-drivers—well, that’s just our feeling. If you *really* want to go solo, I can definitely give you some tips.
I’m a bit surprised you found self-driving more difficult in the Northern Tanzanian parks than in the Southern Tanzanian parks. What gave you that impression?
I would’ve thought the better condition of the Arusha-NCA road, the shorter distances between the northern parks, their smaller size (Serengeti aside), and the ease of following the main tracks in parks like Arusha, Tarangire, and Manyara, as well as the Ngorongoro Crater (the only time a guide is—at least in theory—mandatory), would make them more manageable than the southern parks, which are vast and far apart (except for the Mikumi-Nyerere pair). Plus, *last but not least*, while the North is busier, that also means help is never far away if something goes wrong—unlike in Katavi, where you can drive all day without seeing another 4x4. And, if it’s any consolation (though maybe not…), wildlife spotting is easier—if not always more pleasant—thanks to the clusters of 4x4s around a perched leopard or a snoozing pride of lions...
Just to clarify, I’ve never done a self-drive in Tanzania, so your experience is obviously way more valuable than my few guided 4x4 safaris.
Good evening Bernard,
I see your point, and I probably didn’t express myself clearly. Actually, our feeling is that the north is really made for organized safaris, and compared to Botswana, for example, the connection with nature is much stronger there. But you're right—there’s something for every taste. Three lions napping in the crater with three or four safari trucks full of tourists around? That’s just not our thing. And often, the guides and truck drivers aren’t very courteous to self-drivers. In short, we’re just getting in the way of their clients. Plus, the campsites are really dirty and poorly maintained for an exorbitant price compared to Namibia, Botswana, or Zambia. Of course, in a lodge or a luxury campsite, it must be amazing... but that’s not possible for a long, slow trip like ours.
Have a good evening
So sorry for my late reply...
I totally get it now—5/5! If I haven’t run into the same issues as you, it’s because I haven’t experienced the joys (and struggles) of self-driving in Tanzania.
Do you find that the campsites in the South are better maintained (because they’re less crowded?)?
That said, it *is* possible to avoid the crowds and other 4x4s in some of the northern parks—I’m thinking of Arusha NP, which has the advantage of being right near Arusha and KIA, Mkomazi NP (didn’t see a single car in 4 days of safari back in October 2010), and Rubondo Island NP, though that one’s off-limits for self-drive since, as the name suggests, it’s a (small) island.
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
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🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
