Self-drive Tanzania in July - August 2018
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GI
Hi everyone,

Here’s a recap of our self-drive trip in Tanzania.

Tanzania is a stunning country, but it’s changing fast, which means that any self-drive info you gather in advance might be outdated by the time you travel.

Still, here’s some info for future self-drivers.

The vehicle: After lots of research, thinking, and calculations, we had our 4x4 with roof tents shipped from South Africa through our rental company of two years, Safari4x4Hire. The price for 31 days came to $247.00 per day. That’s cheaper than some Tanzanian rental companies (Shawsafaris: $380.00 per day, total with 18% tax) and just a little more expensive than others (Tanzanian Pionners), but with the guarantee of having a well-maintained and reliable vehicle. You can check out the discussion I started: here

Traffic: The speed limit is 80 km/h on roads and 50 km/h in villages. Watch out—there are lots of police checks at village entrances (speed radar). In villages and towns, also be careful with minibuses, which are everywhere and stop and start without signaling. As for paved roads, most are in good condition, and many tracks are brand new or being renovated (the Chinese are in the area!).

Campsites: It’s very easy to find a spot in Tanzanian campsites (few self-drivers), so no need to book in advance (we were often alone in campsites outside the parks). Inside the parks, it’s easy to book public campsites at the gates. With roof tents, the downside is that sites are usually designed for travelers with ground tents, but we always found space for our vehicle. Another downside is making a fire—it’s nearly impossible to find wood (Tanzanians don’t usually make fires for cooking or ambiance). Campsite prices outside the parks range from $5.00 to $15.00 (price with 18% tax). I’ll list the prices for campsites inside the parks below.

Food: There are very few supermarkets in Tanzania, and prices can be steep if you’re not careful (European brands). For fruits and vegetables, you can easily find roadside vendors. For other groceries, you can shop at supermarkets (Dar es Salaam, Arusha). In Arusha, there’s a brand-new Shoppers Supermarket—clean and well-stocked—and for meat, don’t hesitate to visit the Meat King butcher. It’s also often possible to eat well at campsites with restaurants for around $10.00 (price with 18% tax).

Some other info: 1. At gas stations, you almost always pay in cash, usually in Tanzanian shillings.

2. Park entries, campsites, and Ngorongoro are paid with a card (Visa, etc.) directly at the gates. Exception: Selous, where you need a permit in advance (we didn’t have one when we arrived at the north gate, but we were still able to enter thanks to the kindness of the gate attendant).

3. Watch out—some regions outside the parks have a tax: the Wildlife Management Fee. Payment is a bit unclear: - For Lake Chala, we paid at the gate in cash. - For Lake Natron, you can’t pay at the gate—we had to arrange it with the campsite. - For the area between Tarangire Gate and Lake Burungi (to reach a campsite), you can’t pass the gate without paying in Arusha first.

4. For divers, you can do amazing dives in Pangani with Kasa Divers.

Park entry and campsite prices in July/August 2018:

Saadani National Park:

Park entry per person: $30 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%

Arusha National Park:

Park entry per person: $45 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)

We slept outside the park.

Serengeti National Park:

Park entry per person: $60 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%

We couldn’t get a night in a Special Campsite.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area:

Park entry per person: $60 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%

Night at Special Campsite per person: $60 + 18%

Descent into the crater for vehicle: $250 + 18% (you don’t need a guide to go into the crater).

Tarangire National Park:

Park entry per person: $45 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%

Ruaha National Park:

Park entry per person: $30 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $40 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Night at Public Campsite per person: $30 + 18%

Selous Game Reserve:

Park entry per person: $75 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Park entry for vehicle (under 2000 kg): $50 + 18% (for 24 hours)

Night at public campsite per person: $30 + 18% (You don’t need a guide to visit Selous, but a GPS with the Tracks4Africa map is essential—there are lots of tracks).

Conclusion: We loved the northern parks, but they’re really crowded, especially with safari vehicles (though that does make it easier to spot wildlife—just follow the cars). Still, we preferred the southern parks—they’re wilder, less crowded, and almost no safari vehicles. In the campsites, you can often find yourself alone (just how we like it 😏!). But both north and south have amazing wildlife and friendly people!

If you’re interested in more info about Tanzania, I’d be happy to help.
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
It's a go! 😛 😎 I'm in! 🙂

Thanks for all this info.

By the way, is August a good time for Tanzania?

Jef
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
BL Blesl Veteran ·
It's happening! 😛 😎..

By the way, is August a good time for Tanzania?

Jef

Good evening Jean-François,

Yes, August is an excellent time in Tanzania for wildlife viewing, especially for tracking the Great Migration. The trails are dry and as passable as possible, and the wildlife is concentrated around the few remaining water sources. The weather is great—no rain—and the temperatures during the austral winter (July-August-September) are cooler than in summer (January-February-March). The only downside for birdwatchers is that January-February might be better due to the presence of migratory birds from the Western Palearctic.

The only downside is the crowds—it’s the busiest time of the year. But there are nearly deserted parks like Mkomazi in the north or Katavi in the south. And in massive parks like Ruaha (over 20,000 km²) or Serengeti (nearly 15,000 km²), a good driver should still be able to find you some peaceful spots.

Have a great evening!

BL
safari photo en Tanzanie et ailleurs https://safari-tanzanie.fr WILIPI photographie animalière
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Good evening Bernard,

Thanks for the details 🙂

It’s true that after Southern Africa (Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, and Zambia) and Uganda, I’ll inevitably head to Tanzania one day or another.😉

Though it doesn’t add much compared to what I’ve already seen

Have a great evening too
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
BL Blesl Veteran ·
I don’t know much about Botswana and Zimbabwe, where we only did a safari. And I’ve never been to Namibia with its stunning landscapes or Uganda with its legendary shoebills and incredible gorillas. But I can still tell you that Tanzania can offer you what you’ve never had/seen anywhere else: the Great Migration on the endless plains of the Serengeti, the fine sandy beaches of Lake Tanganyika with its perfect water temperature and a multitude of colorful fish, Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest peak, the crocodiles of Katavi in their dens and the hippos piled up in their wallows, the baobabs of Ruaha and Tarangire, the 300 km² of the Ngorongoro Crater with its unmatched wildlife density, the islands of Zanzibar. And, last but not least, more bird species—1,134 (and more endemics with 53)—than in any other African country.

And I’m sure I’m forgetting a lot, a lot...

Safe travels! Have a great trip!

BL
safari photo en Tanzanie et ailleurs https://safari-tanzanie.fr WILIPI photographie animalière
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Thank you so much! 😛 🙂
https://apprentisvoyageurs.com
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Jean Francois,

Yes, August is a great time to explore Tanzania: this year, temperatures ranged between 30/35°C during the day. The nights aren’t as cold as in Namibia or Botswana, except at Ngorongoro. We still had some rain at the end of July and beginning of August, which gave us stunning colors for photos. The tracks were a bit wet but passable.

Tanzania is also lucky to have such varied landscapes. You can relax under palm trees and snorkel with a multitude of small fish in Pangani. Venture into the virgin forest and spot Colobus monkeys in Arusha Park. Discover magnificent volcanoes like Kilimanjaro with its eternal snows (in July/August it’s completely white), Mount Meru overlooking the city and Arusha Park, the Lake Natron region with its many volcanoes, its salt lake, and its sand tornadoes (a very photogenic area). And of course, Ngorongoro with its high concentration of animals, not to mention Empakaai and its alkaline lake, and Lake Chala. The vast plains of the Serengeti for its predators (easy to find—just follow the lodge vehicles), its huge herds of buffalo, and for the Great Migration. August isn’t the best time for that, though—most of the big herds were already in the Mara for us, but we still managed to see a few stragglers near the Grumeti. There are also the baobabs and elephants of Tarangire Park with its high concentration of animals. And of course, the wilder southern parks like Ruaha with its baobabs, its campsites by the river, and its stunning sunsets, not to mention its large number of animals. Finally, the beautiful landscapes of Selous with its lakes, palm trees, green plains, huge crocodiles, hippos, and of course its wild dogs. The scenery along the roads is also very varied—mountains, plains, small villages, etc. Well, I haven’t been to Uganda, so I don’t know if it’s similar to Tanzania!

Cheers!

PS: I think our rental company in South Africa, Safari4x4Hire, now has a depot and cars in Dar es Salaam. A lot of people thought our way of traveling was awesome and took photos of our car. I’ll be able to ask for a discount on our next rental with all this free advertising! 😛
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hi Nathalie,

Yes, August is a good time to explore Tanzania: this year, temperatures ranged between 30/35°C during the day. The nights aren’t as cold as in Namibia or Botswana, except at Ngorongoro. We still had some rain at the end of July and beginning of August, which gave us magnificent colors for photos. The tracks were a bit wet but passable.

It was particularly hot for the season—30-35°C is above the seasonal norm, especially for the northern parks, which are 1,000 meters above sea level. No doubt the infernal El Niño/La Niña duo is still causing trouble. You were lucky with the sky for photos; you often have to go later in the season to get those gorgeous stormy skies with *yum* lighting!

Tanzania also has the advantage of offering very diverse landscapes. You can relax under palm trees and snorkel with a multitude of small fish in Pangani. Venture into the virgin forest and spot Colobus monkeys in Arusha National Park. Discover magnificent volcanoes like Kilimanjaro and its eternal snows (in July/August, it’s completely white), Mount Meru overlooking the city and Arusha Park, the Lake Natron region with its many volcanoes, its salt lake, and sand tornadoes (a very photogenic area), and of course, Ngorongoro with its high concentration of animals—don’t forget Empakaai and its alkaline lake, and Lake Chala. The vast plains of the Serengeti for its predators (easy to find, just follow the lodge vehicles), its huge herds of buffalo, though for the Great Migration, August isn’t the best time. For us, the big herds were already in the Mara, but we still managed to see a few stragglers near the Grumeti. There are also the baobabs and elephants of Tarangire National Park with its high concentration of animals. And of course, the wilder southern parks like Ruaha with its baobabs, riverside campsites, and stunning sunsets—plus its large wildlife population. And to finish, the magnificent landscapes of Selous with its lakes, palm trees, green plains, big crocodiles, hippos, and of course, its African wild dogs. The scenery along the roads is also very varied—mountains, plains, small villages, etc.

You really know how to make our mouths water—what a tease! I’m probably not the only one eagerly waiting for your travel journal. Self-drive accounts for Tanzania are so rare. So, dare I say, "go for it"? Come on, I’ll take the plunge 😉!

Have a great day (and go for it again 🙂)

BL

PS: For the Great Migration in August, the classic advice is to head to the northern Lobo area, northeast of the Serengeti, near the Mara River rather than the Western Corridor and Grumeti, which are better suited for late autumn (austral)-early winter, say from late May to July. And according to HerdTracker, that seemed to be the case this year. But the migration’s location, which depends heavily on rainfall, is far from an exact science. With nearly two million wildebeest-zebra-antelope, it doesn’t all pass through in one or two weeks, and there are always stragglers. Plus, some herds even backtrack—we saw a good part of a wildebeest herd recross the Mara just after an initial crossing where they’d lost a few, if you’ll pardon the expression...
safari photo en Tanzanie et ailleurs https://safari-tanzanie.fr WILIPI photographie animalière
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Hello Jean-François

Except it doesn’t add much compared to what I’ve already seen :/

I have less experience than you in Southern Africa and only a short trip to Tanzania, but in terms of animal density (herbivores—wildebeest migration—and big cats), I’ve never seen anything like it (and I didn’t even witness the Great Migration in Kenya/Tanzania!) Muriel
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Bernard,

PS: For the great migration in August, the classic advice is to head to the northern part of Lobo, in the northeast of the Serengeti, along the Mara River rather than the Western Corridor and the Grumeti, which are more suitable in late autumn (austral) to early winter, say from late May to July. And according to herdtracker, that seemed to be the case this year. But the location of the migration, which depends heavily on rainfall, is far from an exact science—especially since you can always count on stragglers. With nearly two million wildebeest, zebras, and antelopes, it doesn’t all pass through in one or two weeks. Plus, there are always changes of heart, herds that briefly move against the current. We even saw a large part of a wildebeest herd cross back over the Mara just after an initial crossing where they’d lost a few, if you’ll pardon the expression...

Yes, that’s what the staff at Klein's Gate told us too—it takes about 3 to 4 hours of driving to reach the Mara. Since there’s no public camping in the area, we’d have had around 7 hours of driving round-trip without any guarantee of seeing a crossing. So we gave up! Well, we knew it wasn’t the ideal time, so we’re not disappointed.
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
ZI Zilch ·
Hi Nathalie,

We were lucky enough to see 4 wildebeest and zebra crossings on the Mara in the northeast of the Serengeti in late August 2017 after a big storm. We even saw elephants crossing, which our guide told us was very rare. Best regards
Zilch
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hi Zilch,

Elephants crossing the Mara—I can well believe that’s pretty rare. On the other hand, in the Selous Game Reserve, it can be a daily spectacle at certain times of year on the Rufiji River.

Have a great day,

BL

safari photo en Tanzanie et ailleurs https://safari-tanzanie.fr WILIPI photographie animalière
CH Chgaillard ·
Hi there,

I just wanted to add a few details. For our part, we never felt unsafe in Tanzania, even in the villages. However, it was impossible to stop without being surrounded by lots of kids who all gathered around the car. On the other hand, we found the access tracks to the parks quite rough and tiring because they were quite long—especially Ruaha and the track from Ngorongoro to the Serengeti, which was under construction with big rocks, gravel, and only one lane to drive on (I don’t think the repairs made much of an improvement). In the Serengeti, the “tracks” were more like ruts we followed, and they were very uneven, making the car tilt dangerously—but the reward was worth it! The paved roads are in better condition in the north than in the south because the edges are deeply eroded, creating huge curbs, not to mention the massive potholes. We stayed 2 days in Ruaha when I had planned for more, but it was impossible to find fuel inside the park (reserved for lodge guests). As for whether to visit Ngorongoro or not—we hesitated for a long time but ultimately didn’t regret going. We didn’t see tons of animals, but I thought the setting was magical. We traveled from September 12 to October 10 and didn’t encounter many people—just a few 4x4s. Regarding wildlife, we saw lots of lionesses and lions up close in the Serengeti, a zebra chase in Mikumi, and a few in Ngorongoro. As for cheetahs, tourists didn’t see any more than we did—the guides told us they’re very hard to spot. We saw on local TV that some people were arrested for possessing cheetah skins. At the end of the trip, we took a fantastic break near Pangani—clean, warm ocean, in short, pure bliss.
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi,

That’s why I say things change really fast in Tanzania because roads or tracks are always under construction.

For Ruaha, it’s true the track isn’t great, but there’s a parallel road that’s a real highway.

The track between Ngorongoro and Serengeti wasn’t under construction this summer, but it’s true the drive between the two parks is long.

We found the Serengeti tracks were actually pretty easy (maybe we’re just used to it 😄)

Yes, Pangani is a truly beautiful place!
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi everyone,

A sneak peek on our site of the diving photos from Pangani (Tanzanian coast): http://www.girardinphoto.net/piwigo/
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi everyone,

Well, the adventure is finally starting here: voyageforum.com/...n-tanzanie-d9225696/ or on our site for the full text and photos: www.girardinphoto.net/...eVoyage/Accueil.html
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi everyone,

Here are the photos from Tanzania on our site: http://www.girardinphoto.net/piwigo/index.php?/category/1
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Hi there, I saw that you did Tanzania as a self-drive trip, which I’m planning to do next September. What itinerary did you take and how long was your trip? Thanks for your reply! Have a great day, Nathalie
CH Chgaillard ·
Hi Nathalie,

We left from September 12 to October 10, 2018. It was very hot, and we really struggled with the heat because the air conditioning in our "African" car wasn’t working. We started our trip in the south, Mikumi and Ruaha, then headed north to visit the usual parks. If we’d had a better car (we broke a wheel in the Serengeti), we would’ve added Gombe National Park, but it was a long detour, and with the heat, we decided to skip it...

In any case, it’s an amazing trip—don’t hesitate to go! Happy planning.
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Thanks for the details! :) Which rental company did you use?
CH Chgaillard ·
We didn’t really “choose,” since there aren’t many rental companies, so we ended up with Sam’s Car Rental in Dar (we’d initially seen that AVIS was in DAR, but it was impossible to book with them—no cars available every time we tried...). Based on other travelers’ feedback, I knew their cars were junk, but our tickets were already booked... so we made do.
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Thanks for your reply! I’ve requested quotes for 4x4s with roof tents: Fortes: $220/day (Land Rover or Land Cruiser) Shaw Safaris: $300/day (Land Rover Defender), apparently fully equipped with insurance included. I’ve also asked for quotes for non-camping-equipped 4x4s: 4x4 Hire: $147 for a Toyota Land Cruiser PRADO GX driver: $65/day Waiting for more quotes... I’m wondering if, in the end, a 4x4 with a roof tent is worth it price-wise, especially since lodges are expensive—maybe there’s a way to find more affordable ones?
CH Chgaillard ·
We rented a car without camping gear, and we had a small ground tent just in case we couldn’t find a room to sleep in—and especially to be inside the parks. But you should know that the campsites in the parks aren’t really designed for equipped vehicles; it’s just a simple parking lot that fills up quickly with 4x4s.
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Hello, Thanks for your reply. About the camps inside the parks—do they still have toilets, showers, and places to eat? In September, do you think we should book ahead or just show up at the entrance gate hoping there’s space left? I’m not sure how busy it gets that time of year. Have a great day, Nathalie
CH Christie95 ·
Hi there,

It depends on the camps, but the facilities aren’t great in general—you shouldn’t be too picky, especially given the price you pay! Often, you’ll have to forget about taking a nice shower after a day of safari... There are always spots for picnics that are pretty well set up and even nice, where you can buy drinks, sandwiches, and other food at a steep price, of course. For campsites inside the parks, you pay for the number of nights along with the park entry fee. I don’t think there’s a system to count the number of campers—at least, we were never turned away. We didn’t book anything so we could stay flexible with our route. I can’t really compare, but in September, there are tourists, sure, but it’s not crowded. Never more than 2 or 3 cars stopped at the key spots (more people in the north, sometimes alone in the world in the north). For the crater, we didn’t find it as much of a zoo as other travelers described. In short, no long lines of 4x4s. On the other hand, the small parking lots at campsites in the parks fill up quickly in the evening, which can be tricky if you have a fitted 4x4. Happy to help with any other questions—I’m currently planning Iceland for February... not the same temperatures at all!
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Hi,

Thanks for your detailed reply. Have a great trip preparing for Iceland!

Nathalie
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Christine,

I don’t quite understand your parking issue at campsites—with our 4x4 and rooftop tent, we’ve always been able to park just about anywhere!

The shower problem is real, though, especially after all the safari groups pass through!
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
CH Christie95 ·
Hi,

Actually, it was mainly in the Serengeti—we stayed 5 nights, and every time our car was blocked by other 4x4s, so we worked it out with the drivers (who were really friendly, by the way) to decide who left first (I’m talking about public camps with no reservation). We had a ground tent, so no problem for us. But elsewhere, there was no issue with space at all. Happy travels to everyone
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Ah, I get it. For us, it was simpler—we’d pack up the tents and could hit the road 😄 !
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Regarding the practical side, what guides and maps did you use? I have the Lonely Planet, but I’m wondering if that’s enough...
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
We also had the Lonely Planet, the Petit Futé, and the Bradt guide, which I think is more comprehensive, but it’s in English. But the most important thing is to have a GPS with Tracks4Africa.

You can also order online—or find them on-site—the maps of the northern parks and the two books (in English): *The Tourist Travel & Field Guide of the Serengeti National Park* and *The Tourist Travel & Field Guide of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area*.
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
SE Serraggia Regular ·
Thanks! 😉 I’ll order all of this online—I prefer having everything in hand before departure
CH Christie95 ·
The Lonely Planet guide plus GPS on your phone with Maps.me and HERE WeGo (download maps before you leave) and then you don’t need internet. In the parks, some are well laid out with signs, but for others you have to trust your instincts... we used a compass and my husband’s nose for direction...
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
I also prefer to have everything on hand before leaving!
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
At our place, I’m the one who replaces the GPS 😜 !
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
SE Serraggia Regular ·
I also think you absolutely need a SIM card with a Tanzanian network—it can be useful even if you don’t get coverage everywhere... GPS is pretty handy, but I seriously doubt I’d be able to navigate the Tanzanian tracks 😉
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
I also think you absolutely need a SIM card with a Tanzanian network—it can be useful even if you don’t get coverage everywhere... The GPS is pretty good, but I seriously doubt I’d be able to navigate the Tanzanian tracks 😉

It’s often when you get lost that you make the best encounters 🤗 !
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
MO Moiaussi77 ·
Hi, Your story really makes me want to go. A few questions if you don’t mind. We’re not very adventurous and we’re hesitant to organize everything ourselves. Do you know of a local agency that could arrange this trip for us? I didn’t see Kilimanjaro in your itinerary. Is there a reason? What budget should we plan for a month there? Thanks for your tips.
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hello,

Hello, Your story is really inspiring. A few questions if you don’t mind. We’re not very adventurous and hesitate to organize everything ourselves. Do you know of a local agency that could arrange this trip for us?

Sorry, we don’t know any local agencies, but I saw in another discussion that the member https://voyageforum.com/membres/celinerou/ might have a small local agency. Otherwise, self-drive travel really isn’t that difficult.

I didn’t see Kilimanjaro in your itinerary. Is there a reason?

For us, our only hope was to photograph Kilimanjaro (not climb it), and we were lucky enough to see it from two spots on our route: Lake Chala and Kahawa Shambani Campsite in Moshi. Check out the photos here: http://www.girardinphoto.net/piwigo/index.php?/category/1

What budget should we plan for 1 month there?

We spent around $19,000 for 4 people for 32 days, excluding flights and diving. That includes: the car, accommodations, food, park entry fees, tours, gas, taxes, visas, souvenirs, fines, and miscellaneous expenses. Just to clarify, this was our trip for our two 50th birthdays, so we didn’t really watch our budget 😊! But I’d say the price is pretty standard given all the park visits we did, like Selous and the descent into Ngorongoro, which are quite expensive.

Thanks for your advice.

You’re welcome!
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
PI Pir971 Veteran ·
Hey there Nathalie, I’ve finally caught up with the latest Tanzania discussion I hadn’t been following yet! 😇

I’m looking at the national park prices and, how can I put this... Wow! 😮 Thanks for sharing this valuable info, though—it’s really helpful, even if I guess these rates will keep going up year after year as visitor numbers increase.

Basically, 72 hours in the Serengeti cost as much as a year’s Wild Card in South Africa. 😄😄 What a difference!

I also notice there isn’t much of a price gap between the "southern" parks and the more popular northern ones. Too bad! 😊 Though I guess that’s what helps prevent overcrowding and better preserve these natural parks. Still, I’m curious: do Tanzanians have to pay the same prices to visit their own parks???? 😮

Public campgrounds aren’t cheap either. Do you know if there are any budget-friendly camping options outside the parks to help lighten the load on the wallet? 🙂

Thanks for this discussion!
Alaska 2018 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9860356;#9860356 Afrique 2017 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=8661002;#8661002 Islande 2017 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=7818139;#7818139 Afrique 2015 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=7337116;#7337116
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Hi Pierre,

Yes, Tanzania’s national parks are expensive, and the reserves are even pricier, but some are definitely worth it.

Entry fees for the southern parks are usually cheaper, but the cost for the vehicle and campsites is the same. Watch out—the Selous isn’t a national park but a reserve, so they charge whatever they want.

I think Tanzanians pay less for entry, but I didn’t see many visiting the parks except for the drivers!

As for campsites, you can find some between $5.00 and $15.00 outside certain parks, but the vibe isn’t the same. For the Serengeti, you’ll have to stay inside the park.

A few campsites we tried outside the parks:

- Meru Mbega Campsite, 500m from the entrance of Arusha National Park. A nice campsite (see Day_8 of the travel journal).

- Fanaka Campsites (Mto wa Mbu), just a few meters from the entrance of Lake Manyara National Park. A really cool campsite with a small pool.

- Zion Camp, a few meters from the entrance of Tarangire National Park. An average campsite.

- Chogela Campsite, about 25 km from the entrance of Ruaha National Park. A great campsite, but watch out for the road to Ruaha.

There are also campsites at the main entrance of the Selous Game Reserve. There are probably some before the entrance of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area too.

That’s all! !
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
CZ Czar1983 ·
Hi everyone,

So, here's my plan and my questions. I'm looking to head to Tanzania in mid-August with Qatar Airways for 2 or 3 weeks—I haven’t finalized everything yet.

I want to arrive in Dar Es Salaam, rent a 4x4, and hit the road for a road trip. I did a simulation on a site, and for 17 days, it’s around 900 € for a Rav4 rental. Would this vehicle be enough for what I want to do? I’d like to be as free as possible and avoid guides, but it seems they’re mandatory for some parks. The prices are sky-high, and the vehicle’s mileage is limited to 120 km per day. My plan is to leave from Dar Es Salaam, head north, spend at least 2 days in the Serengeti, then tackle Kilimanjaro. After that, I’d go down to visit the main parks, including the Crater, and finish with a few days in Zanzibar.

I have a few questions: Do I *have* to have a guide? If so, for which parks? What exactly am I paying for with the guide? Do I also cover their hotel nights? What’s the base rate for a guide? Do I have to take their vehicle, or can I keep mine? I’d really like to save as much as possible on this part because, honestly, it’s more of a hassle for me—I love being free and going wherever I feel like at the last minute.

Thanks in advance for any tips or advice—I’ve read the 3 pages but I’m still struggling to wrap my head around it all.
SL Slpb56 Regular ·
Hi there,

We were in Tanzania in January–February this year, self-driving with our own car. We know southern African countries well, so Tanzania was a real discovery for us. It was absolutely fantastic. But for a trip like yours, if you're not very experienced, I’d recommend a local agency in ARUSHA or MOSHI with a Parks + Zanzibar package. Two weeks for the northern parks and Kilimanjaro, and a week in ZANZIBAR. Right now, prices should be good, and agencies will know what’s open or closed due to COVID. The north isn’t really set up for self-drivers—well, that’s just our feeling. If you *really* want to go solo, I can definitely give you some tips.
slpb56
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hi Sylvie,

I’m a bit surprised you found self-driving more difficult in the Northern Tanzanian parks than in the Southern Tanzanian parks. What gave you that impression?

I would’ve thought the better condition of the Arusha-NCA road, the shorter distances between the northern parks, their smaller size (Serengeti aside), and the ease of following the main tracks in parks like Arusha, Tarangire, and Manyara, as well as the Ngorongoro Crater (the only time a guide is—at least in theory—mandatory), would make them more manageable than the southern parks, which are vast and far apart (except for the Mikumi-Nyerere pair). Plus, *last but not least*, while the North is busier, that also means help is never far away if something goes wrong—unlike in Katavi, where you can drive all day without seeing another 4x4. And, if it’s any consolation (though maybe not…), wildlife spotting is easier—if not always more pleasant—thanks to the clusters of 4x4s around a perched leopard or a snoozing pride of lions...

Just to clarify, I’ve never done a self-drive in Tanzania, so your experience is obviously way more valuable than my few guided 4x4 safaris.

Have a great day!

BL

safari photo en Tanzanie et ailleurs https://safari-tanzanie.fr WILIPI photographie animalière
SL Slpb56 Regular ·
Good evening Bernard, I see your point, and I probably didn’t express myself clearly. Actually, our feeling is that the north is really made for organized safaris, and compared to Botswana, for example, the connection with nature is much stronger there. But you're right—there’s something for every taste. Three lions napping in the crater with three or four safari trucks full of tourists around? That’s just not our thing. And often, the guides and truck drivers aren’t very courteous to self-drivers. In short, we’re just getting in the way of their clients. Plus, the campsites are really dirty and poorly maintained for an exorbitant price compared to Namibia, Botswana, or Zambia. Of course, in a lodge or a luxury campsite, it must be amazing... but that’s not possible for a long, slow trip like ours. Have a good evening
slpb56
GI Girardinpho Veteran ·
Sorry Rabah for not replying sooner—I just got back from vacation. I think it’s a bit late to give you any info now!
Nathalie

Photos et carnets de voyage : http://www.girardinphoto.net
BL Blesl Veteran ·
Hi Sylvie,

So sorry for my late reply... I totally get it now—5/5! If I haven’t run into the same issues as you, it’s because I haven’t experienced the joys (and struggles) of self-driving in Tanzania.

Do you find that the campsites in the South are better maintained (because they’re less crowded?)?

That said, it *is* possible to avoid the crowds and other 4x4s in some of the northern parks—I’m thinking of Arusha NP, which has the advantage of being right near Arusha and KIA, Mkomazi NP (didn’t see a single car in 4 days of safari back in October 2010), and Rubondo Island NP, though that one’s off-limits for self-drive since, as the name suggests, it’s a (small) island.

Have a great day!

BL
safari photo en Tanzanie et ailleurs https://safari-tanzanie.fr WILIPI photographie animalière
MA Mamsissi Regular ·
Hi there, I just got back from a self-drive trip in Tanzania—thanks to all of you for the great travel journal!

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