Selon un bilan communiqué par l'armée sénégalaise, sept militaires ont été tués lundi 27 décembre dans une embuscade tendue par des rebelles en Casamance, région du sud du Sénégal en proie à une rébellion indépendantiste. Il s'agit des plus lourdes pertes subies depuis plus d'un an par l'armée sénégalaise en Casamance, où six soldats avaient trouvé la mort en octobre 2009 dans des affrontements de même nature.
Sept militaires tués dans une embuscade au Sénégal, Casamance (27 décembre 2010)
by Jpfrene
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Sept militaires tués dans une embuscade au Sénégal
LEMONDE.FR avec AFP | 27.12.10 | 19h31
Selon un bilan communiqué par l'armée sénégalaise, sept militaires ont été tués lundi 27 décembre dans une embuscade tendue par des rebelles en Casamance, région du sud du Sénégal en proie à une rébellion indépendantiste. Il s'agit des plus lourdes pertes subies depuis plus d'un an par l'armée sénégalaise en Casamance, où six soldats avaient trouvé la mort en octobre 2009 dans des affrontements de même nature.
Selon un bilan communiqué par l'armée sénégalaise, sept militaires ont été tués lundi 27 décembre dans une embuscade tendue par des rebelles en Casamance, région du sud du Sénégal en proie à une rébellion indépendantiste. Il s'agit des plus lourdes pertes subies depuis plus d'un an par l'armée sénégalaise en Casamance, où six soldats avaient trouvé la mort en octobre 2009 dans des affrontements de même nature.
il ya des attaques aussi à la frontières maliennes comme à la frontières mauritanienne, et dans la plupart des limites frontières des pays d'afrique, ces attaques se trouvent dans les zones reculées et les civils ne sont pas visés, dans ces attaques se battent indépendentistes régionalles et l'armée du gouvernement...
La Casamance n'a vraiment pas besoin de ça car elle a déjà perdu le tourisme de masse, ça me désole de voir la plage du cap skirring vide alors que c'est la plus belle plage du sénégal...
C'etait marrant d'avoir la plage à nous tout seul, moi et ma copine en amoureux en plein mois de décembre sur un sable brulant entrain de bronzer mais il ya un moment oû c'est triste de voir ce manque de touristes, tout ça à cause d'attaques situées dans les fins fond de la brousse... Ca, plus le fait que beaucoup en rajoutent plus qu'il en faut afin que les touristes restent dans la région de dakar pour l'économie touristiques, ils n'ont vraiment que ça comme excuse pour garder leur touristes sinon il ya longtemps que la Casamance serait la région la plus touristiques du Sénégal, il suffit de comparer la nature du nord et celle de la Casamance, il n'ya pas photo, ou plutôt si il ya beaucoup pluss à photographier en Casamance lol... Déjà la plupart des fruits viennent de la Casamance cette région qui symbolise le retour du vert de cette nature équatoriale, la population diola est respecteuse et acceuillante et ce n'est pas cette nouvelle attaque qui va arranger les problèmes touristiques de cette région déjà isolée par la Gambie, des français et des locaux vivent làbas du tourisme, et bien je les plaints ...
Les attaques sont rares mais elles ont suffit à supprimer les tours opérateurs, à vous touristes de voir plus loin que le tourisme de masse et de prendre votre sac à dos et de prendre le bateau "aline sittoe diatta" ou même l'avion 8 places pour rejoindre cette superbe région qui est la plus belle du Sénégal !! Sable blanc et végétation luxuriante, les chemins et les plages de Casamance sont uniques !! Sans compter tous ces villages dont chacun d'entres eux vaut le coup d'oeil ...
Bref pour celui qui n'aime pas le tourisme de masse et qui aime l'Afrique, alors il sera très heureux en Casamance !!!
La Casamance n'a vraiment pas besoin de ça car elle a déjà perdu le tourisme de masse, ça me désole de voir la plage du cap skirring vide alors que c'est la plus belle plage du sénégal...
C'etait marrant d'avoir la plage à nous tout seul, moi et ma copine en amoureux en plein mois de décembre sur un sable brulant entrain de bronzer mais il ya un moment oû c'est triste de voir ce manque de touristes, tout ça à cause d'attaques situées dans les fins fond de la brousse... Ca, plus le fait que beaucoup en rajoutent plus qu'il en faut afin que les touristes restent dans la région de dakar pour l'économie touristiques, ils n'ont vraiment que ça comme excuse pour garder leur touristes sinon il ya longtemps que la Casamance serait la région la plus touristiques du Sénégal, il suffit de comparer la nature du nord et celle de la Casamance, il n'ya pas photo, ou plutôt si il ya beaucoup pluss à photographier en Casamance lol... Déjà la plupart des fruits viennent de la Casamance cette région qui symbolise le retour du vert de cette nature équatoriale, la population diola est respecteuse et acceuillante et ce n'est pas cette nouvelle attaque qui va arranger les problèmes touristiques de cette région déjà isolée par la Gambie, des français et des locaux vivent làbas du tourisme, et bien je les plaints ...
Les attaques sont rares mais elles ont suffit à supprimer les tours opérateurs, à vous touristes de voir plus loin que le tourisme de masse et de prendre votre sac à dos et de prendre le bateau "aline sittoe diatta" ou même l'avion 8 places pour rejoindre cette superbe région qui est la plus belle du Sénégal !! Sable blanc et végétation luxuriante, les chemins et les plages de Casamance sont uniques !! Sans compter tous ces villages dont chacun d'entres eux vaut le coup d'oeil ...
Bref pour celui qui n'aime pas le tourisme de masse et qui aime l'Afrique, alors il sera très heureux en Casamance !!!
ma chaîne YouTube : http://www.youtube.com/user/yolovema
Merci de l'info🙂
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
merci de tes infos
Quel dommage , de colporter et de faire peur aux gens .....
Moi -même j'ai été dissuadée par un senegalais vivant en France qui m'a dit , c'est dangereux pour toi d'aller la bas pourtant j'en ai tres envie depuis longtemps , je voulais aller dans une case pour avoir des contacts avec la population vers Kafoutine
Merci de m'avoir rassurer
Salut
Fanfan
Françoise CAZILLAC
0621564168
tu as raison d'être rassurée, la casamance est magnifique et pas plus dangereuse surtout à cap skiring , il y a des militaires partout , c'est plus flippant que les réelles attaques , mais je suis un peu étonnée devoir ton numéro de téléphone et ton nom en clair au vu de tous , ça ce n'est pas forcément très prudent !!!!
Bonjour. Régulièrement depuis trois ans je prends des renseignements pour un voyage en Casamance.
Les mises en garde du gouvernement français, le cout du trajet avion Dakar Ziguinchor et les nouvelles
dramatiques que vous signalez vont me faire encore reporter (peut-etre définitivement) mon voyage.
Pourtant j'ai vécu une année au Sénégal (pendant laquelle j'était descendu de Dakar à Ziguinchor en stop)
et j'y ai fait un séjour en 2006 (je voulais aller à en Casamance mais on me l'avait déjà déconseillé). Pensez
vous que les prochaines années vont voir une amélioration au niveau sécurité ? Sur ce site j'ai vu
qu'il y avait l'organisation d'une réunion VoyageForum à Ziguinchor le 11 janvier ? C'est vrai aussi que par
différents sites je sais que certaines personnes s'y rendent apparemment sans probleme.
Salut Ours !
Idem pour moi depuis 7 ans, alors cela m'a permis de voir St-Louis, Lompoul, la petite côte (sf Sally), Dkr +++ et là, je me suis dit "STOP, pars en Casamance, tu en rêves", car il y aura toujours qqchose pour me dissuader ! Et bien il n'y a pas qqchose mais qq'un au pluriel, mes amis dakarois : tous les voyous des Gambie, Mali, Guinée et du Sénégal sont rassemblés dans le sud de la Casamance, figure-toi !!!!!! Et là, j'y vais, je pars le 8 janvier pour 4 semaines et advienne que pourra si je vois des voyous !....
A + !
Idem pour moi depuis 7 ans, alors cela m'a permis de voir St-Louis, Lompoul, la petite côte (sf Sally), Dkr +++ et là, je me suis dit "STOP, pars en Casamance, tu en rêves", car il y aura toujours qqchose pour me dissuader ! Et bien il n'y a pas qqchose mais qq'un au pluriel, mes amis dakarois : tous les voyous des Gambie, Mali, Guinée et du Sénégal sont rassemblés dans le sud de la Casamance, figure-toi !!!!!! Et là, j'y vais, je pars le 8 janvier pour 4 semaines et advienne que pourra si je vois des voyous !....
A + !
Ann
bonjour
c'est bien dommage de reporter ou d'annuler ton voyage en Casamance .
j'y retourne chaque année sans problème .
après chacun est libre .😏
bon voyage
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Si tu as peur de refaire le trajet par la route alors jte conseille de Prendre le Bateau "aline sitoe diatta", de plus tu arriveras à Ziguinchor bien moins fatiguée je penses, et tu ne te retrouveras pas la nuit n'importe oû, ce qui augmente le risque comme partout en Afrique ou comme partout dans les grandes villes d'europe et du monde...
Le Mexique est 10 000fois plus dangeureux et pourtant il ya énormément d'étudiantes de fac qui partent làbas avec leur sac à dos et la plupart reviennnent saines et sauves...
La Casamance mérite vraiment le Détour, soit par bateau ou soit par ces avions 8places qui font la liaison à partir de ziguinchor en 45min jusqu'à Dakar, c'est tout de même fort appréciable !!
Puis de toutes les façons, même avec la plus grande sécurité du monde, faire le trajet par les routes au Sénégal est bien trop fatiguant sauf pour les locaux qui sont habituées à leurs pistes...
j'ai déjà fait plusieurs fois dakar-ziguinchor par la route façon locale, dont une fois oû on a mis presque 24h assis sur un siège...Sans compter tous ces arrêts de Douanes interminables entre Kaolack et Dakar, Bref je peux vous dire que c'etait éprouvant...
Bref de plus par bateau, vous verrez le lever du soleil au calme et peut être aurez vous la chance de voir les dauphins, vous verrez de toutes façons à coup sûr cette nature de la Casamance qui représente pour moi le début de la véritable Afrique Verte, l'entrée dans le fleuve est tout simplement magique, avec une douceur très agréable sur le pont, par contre à l'intérieur du bateau prévoyez des pulls car la climatisation fonctionne pluss que bien... 😏
Bon voyage à Tous !!
Le Mexique est 10 000fois plus dangeureux et pourtant il ya énormément d'étudiantes de fac qui partent làbas avec leur sac à dos et la plupart reviennnent saines et sauves...
La Casamance mérite vraiment le Détour, soit par bateau ou soit par ces avions 8places qui font la liaison à partir de ziguinchor en 45min jusqu'à Dakar, c'est tout de même fort appréciable !!
Puis de toutes les façons, même avec la plus grande sécurité du monde, faire le trajet par les routes au Sénégal est bien trop fatiguant sauf pour les locaux qui sont habituées à leurs pistes...
j'ai déjà fait plusieurs fois dakar-ziguinchor par la route façon locale, dont une fois oû on a mis presque 24h assis sur un siège...Sans compter tous ces arrêts de Douanes interminables entre Kaolack et Dakar, Bref je peux vous dire que c'etait éprouvant...
Bref de plus par bateau, vous verrez le lever du soleil au calme et peut être aurez vous la chance de voir les dauphins, vous verrez de toutes façons à coup sûr cette nature de la Casamance qui représente pour moi le début de la véritable Afrique Verte, l'entrée dans le fleuve est tout simplement magique, avec une douceur très agréable sur le pont, par contre à l'intérieur du bateau prévoyez des pulls car la climatisation fonctionne pluss que bien... 😏
Bon voyage à Tous !!
ma chaîne YouTube : http://www.youtube.com/user/yolovema
bonjour
bien d'accord avec toi , le voyage sur le bateau est super à tous point de vues .
http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3091722;#3091722
bonne année à tous .
francia
http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3091722;#3091722
bonne année à tous .
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
C'est agaçant ces débats permanents sur la sécurité en Casamance...
J'y vis depuis plus de 3 ans, j'y vais et circule librement, principalement par les transports publics depuis plus de 5 ans et jamais, jamais, je n'ai vécu un moment d'insécurité...
On ne peut pas dire la même chose de Dakar ou j'ai récemment été agressé et séquestré par des petits bandits.
Le peuple de Casamance souffre de cette mauvaise réputation due à un banditisme fréquent dans de nombreuses régions d'Afrique mais que l'on amplifie au niveau de la plus belle région du Sénégal. Venez, les populations vous accueilleront avec un enthousiasme rare en Afrique de l'Ouest.
Francia, quand reviens tu me voir ?
J'y vis depuis plus de 3 ans, j'y vais et circule librement, principalement par les transports publics depuis plus de 5 ans et jamais, jamais, je n'ai vécu un moment d'insécurité...
On ne peut pas dire la même chose de Dakar ou j'ai récemment été agressé et séquestré par des petits bandits.
Le peuple de Casamance souffre de cette mauvaise réputation due à un banditisme fréquent dans de nombreuses régions d'Afrique mais que l'on amplifie au niveau de la plus belle région du Sénégal. Venez, les populations vous accueilleront avec un enthousiasme rare en Afrique de l'Ouest.
Francia, quand reviens tu me voir ?
Lucc
"La vie s'arrête lorsque la peur de l'inconnu est plus forte que l'élan" Haffid Agoune
"La vie s'arrête lorsque la peur de l'inconnu est plus forte que l'élan" Haffid Agoune
Non je suis pas specialement bloquée , mais je n'ai trouvé personne de fiable pour m'accompagner et je ne connais pas du tout l'Afrique ....
Je te donne mon mail pour eventuelllement echanger un peu plus !!!
fanchon46rivit@yahoo.fr
A +++++
Fanfan
Françoise CAZILLAC
0621564168
Je vais en Casamance depuis 2004, et maintenant, j'y vis dans ma maison depuis 2006. Agressions ? Insécurité ? Campagne savamment orchestrée pour "punir" le peuple de Casamance d'une rébellion, active il est vrai, d'il y a une vingtaine d'années. Cette région est un paradis, ses habitants adorables. Enfin, un signe qui ne trompe pas et que personne ne relève : quand, dans une région du monde il y a des troubles, et que dans cette région, il y a un Club Med, le Club Med ferme immédiatement pour ne pas mettre en danger la vie de ses clients. A Cap Skirring, il y a le Club Med qui est ouvert à l'heure où j'écris ces lignes...............A bon entendeur....
Salut lucc, peux tu nous dire ce qui t'est arrivé a dakar stp?
je sais que c'est assez "secure" plus qu'a paris en tous cas mais ton experience peus servir a d'autre !
Bonjour,
Sans doute une erreur de destinataire de ton message ; en ce qui me concerne, je fuis Dakar ! Aucun intérêt, pollution maximum et arnaques à tous les coins de rues. Je préfère ma brousse de Casamance.
Bonne journée.
Yves
Salut reau, en effet mon message s'adresse a lucc qui a eu des misères a dakar, sinon biensur je te comprend moi aussi je prefere mille fois la casamance meme si quand je part de dakar je me rend compte que j'aime quand meme tout ce "charivari" .
Dans le nord et en particulier à Dakar, on vous déconseille d’aller en Casamance, car parait-il, il y a la guerre (sic). Moi je vous déconseille d’aller à Dakar ! Pourquoi ? Lisez donc la suite.
Lundi 15 novembre 2010, nous sommes l’avant-veille de la grande fête de Tabaski, la plus grande fête au Sénégal, on sent une tension. Tout le monde a peur car les voyous le soir cherchent des victimes pour les dépouiller de leurs biens.
17 h, je suis à Dakar, plus précisément dans le quartier de HLM Grand Yoff, devant l’hôpital militaire et je suis au téléphone avec un ami qui essaie de me trouver le numéro de téléphone d’une personnalité que je veux rencontrer. AU terme de ma conversation, un jeune s’approche de moi et dit qu’il a entendu ce que je disais et que lui a le téléphone de cette personne chez lui et que si je l’accompagne, il me le donnera. J’ai bien entendu refusé. Insistant mais avec des bons arguments, j’ai fait quelques pas en direction de chez lui mais arrivé deux rues plus loin devant lui, j’ai refusé de rentrer et j’ai dit que je l’attendais devant la porte. IL a insisté, j’ai insisté et soudain, trois jeunes sont arrivés derrière moi et m’ont propulsé dans le couloir de la maison. Les quatre voyous m’ont entrainé dans le fond du couloir et m’ont demandé de leur donner tout mon argent. J’ai dit que je n’avais pas d’argent, et ils m’ont fouillé toutes les poches sous la menace. Ils m’ont pris mon téléphone, mon appareil photo, ma carte bleue, mon passeport et mon porte monnaie avec seulement 30 000 Frs CFA sur moi, un peu moins de 50€. Mécontents, ils m’ont demandé de leur donner 100 000 Frs à chacun, soit 400 000 Frs. Je ne les ai pas. Ils me menacent. J’ai de plus en plus peur. Ils parlent de ma carte bleue et veulent le code pour aller retirer l’argent dans un distributeur. JE leur dis que je n’ai pas d’argent sur ce compte sénégalais mais je leur propose d’aller vérifier. J’espere que cette manœuvre me permettra de sortir de ce couloir sombre ou je suis à leur merci et d’obtenir une aide de passants.
Une fois dehors, j’interpelle des passants, qui voyant la scène détournent la tête et continuent leur chemin. Les menaces fusent de la part des voyous en pleine rue. Ils me disent qu’il y a un mois, ils ont tué un blanc au même endroit. Même si je n’y crois pas trop, ma peur grandit. Comment tout cela va-t-il pouvoir se finir ?
Une idée me vient, je leur dis que j’ai de l’argent à l’hôtel et que s’ils me laissent y aller, je peux leur en donner. Ils hèlent un taxi et trois des quatre voyous m’accompagnent. Coincé à l’arrière entre deux des mecs, je suis menacé, insulté, etc… J’interpelle souvent le chauffeur de taxi qui ne dit rien et je comprends que personne ne m’aidera, sauf peut-être à l’hôtel…. Le temps me parait long, je pense que cela doit faire une heure que je suis entre leurs mains. Malgré la peur, je reste maitre de mes pensées. L’auberge du Poulagou, ou je loge, se trouve dans le quartier des pêcheurs lébous de Yoff-Tonghor plage. Je connais très bien Luc, un suisse, le patron et Khalil, l’homme de confiance du patron. Seront-ils présents ? Comment les alerter ? Est-ce que je vais obtenir du secours ou bien est ce que j’attire ces eux des voyous qui vont leur poser des problèmes… je ne sais pas…. J’ai peur. Ce n’est pas facile d’avouer que l’on a peur, mais je l’avoue j’ai très peur lorsque le taxi se gare devant l’Auberge du Poulagou.
Je continue ?
Dans le taxi, un des jeunes a utilisé à plusieurs reprises mon téléphone puis a jeté la puce par la fenêtre, je suppose qu’il craignait que je retrouve les numéros.
Arrivé devant l’hôtel, les négociations ont repris. Ils voulaient que j’aille chercher l’argent et que je revienne leur porter au taxi et ils disaient me rendre mon matériel (appareil photo, téléphone sans puce, carte bleue et passeport) contre l’argent mais j’ai dit que je n’n’avais pas confiance et deux d’entre eux m’ont accompagné dans l’hôtel. Un est resté dans la cour pendant que l’autre me suivait vers ma chambre mais au lieu d’aller dans ma chambre, je suis monté au bar ou j’ai étais heureux de voir Luc, le patron et Khalil le barman-homme de confiance ainsi qu’un de leurs amis. Une fois entré, avec un des voyous accroché à mes basques, j’ai vite demandé a ce que l’on appelle la police et leur ai expliqué en deux mots que j’étais agressé. Le voyou s’est vu entouré, le deuxième est apparu et s’est vu aussi entouré et les voyous ont expliqué que je les avais volé et que je leur devais 400 000 Frs CFA. Khalil a dit que j’étais surement le premier toubab (blanc) de 55 ans, à agresser 4 jeunes mecs en pleine forme et leur a demandé de me rendre le matériel. Une bousculade a commencé et Khalil leur a demandé de sortir dans la rue et a récupéré de force mon matériel. Dans la rue, celui qui était resté dans la voiture est sorti et a été menaçant, des coups ont fusé rapidement et Luc a menacé d’appeler les pécheurs lébous. On sait que les lébous n’appellent pas la police en cas de vol, ils tabassent le voleur jusqu’à la mort et le mettent dans un sac avec quelques pierres au fond de l’océan. « Mes » voyous ont vite compris cela et se sont jetés dans le taxi pour s’échapper.
Tout est bien qui finit bien mais j’avoue avoir eu une grande peur pendant plus d’une heure et demi, même si tout le monde dit que j’ai eu beaucoup de courage pour négocier avec eux et me félicitent de mes initiatives pour arriver à l’hôtel. Mais oui, je sais ce que c’est que la peur…. Chose que je n’avais jamais connue en Casamance, pays dangereux selon les gens de Dakar.
Mon expérience n’est pas unique. Je connais bon nombre d’européens qui ont connu situation similaire. Beaucoup ont payé très cher. Un voileux français, président du Cercle de Voile de Dakar a trouvé la mort l’année dernier en baie de Hann à Dakar pour quelques milliers de francs CFA. Les vols à l’arraché sont courants aussi en plein centre de Dakar. Mon exemple s’ajoute à une longue liste qui montre que Dakar est une ville ou la prudence et la méfiance s’impose.
Quand à la Casamance, j’attends des témoignages de personnes qui y ont vécu des situations similaires, je n’en connais pas…. Ou peu….
Je pense que mon expérience de commercial qui devait faire face à des situations de crises face à des clients difficiles a affuté mon esprit de négociations. Ce lundi 15 novembre, après mes émotions, Luc, le patron suisse de l’Auberge du Poulagou m’a offert un whisky. Nous avons longuement commenté cet incident, regrettant parfois de ne pas leur avoir cassé la figure ou de ne pas leur avoir pris leurs téléphones ou autres bien en compensation de leur vol des 30 000. Moi je m’estimais heureux de n’avoir perdu que 30 000 Frs CFA et une puce de téléphone.
Je pense que mon expérience de commercial qui devait faire face à des situations de crises face à des clients difficiles a affuté mon esprit de négociations. Ce lundi 15 novembre, après mes émotions, Luc, le patron suisse de l’Auberge du Poulagou m’a offert un whisky. Nous avons longuement commenté cet incident, regrettant parfois de ne pas leur avoir cassé la figure ou de ne pas leur avoir pris leurs téléphones ou autres bien en compensation de leur vol des 30 000. Moi je m’estimais heureux de n’avoir perdu que 30 000 Frs CFA et une puce de téléphone.
Lucc
"La vie s'arrête lorsque la peur de l'inconnu est plus forte que l'élan" Haffid Agoune
"La vie s'arrête lorsque la peur de l'inconnu est plus forte que l'élan" Haffid Agoune
Je viens de lire ton compte-rendu d'agression ! Dakar est une ville à éviter, surtout la nuit, et certains quartiers toute la journée ! Certains voyous tuent pour seulement quelques milliers de CFA.
Je vis aussi en Casamance, à Cabrousse, et je me sens en totale sécurité, même quand je me promène du côté de M'Lomp et jusqu'à Elinkine. La rebellion n'existe plus. Par contre, ce qui subsiste de temps à autre, mais seulement dans le secteur de Bignona jusqu'à la frontière de Gambie, c'est ce que l'on appelle les coupeurs de route. Eviter simplement de circuler dans ces zones de nuit, car de jour, aucun risque.
Voilà ce qu'il y a à dire, venez en Casamance, c'est un endroit merveilleux !
Je vis aussi en Casamance, à Cabrousse, et je me sens en totale sécurité, même quand je me promène du côté de M'Lomp et jusqu'à Elinkine. La rebellion n'existe plus. Par contre, ce qui subsiste de temps à autre, mais seulement dans le secteur de Bignona jusqu'à la frontière de Gambie, c'est ce que l'on appelle les coupeurs de route. Eviter simplement de circuler dans ces zones de nuit, car de jour, aucun risque.
Voilà ce qu'il y a à dire, venez en Casamance, c'est un endroit merveilleux !
OK ! c'est noté ; je repars pour Cabrousse en avion début mars, et remonte à partir du 1 er mai en voiture. Je vais assez souvent sur Elinkine, j'aime bien ce village.
A ++++++++
bonjour
le seul problème que j'ai eu depuis que je voyage en Afrique , on m'a bousculé et arraché ma petite sacoche en plein marché à Dakar , le voleur a du être déçu , il n'y avait que de la menue monaie !
bien sur en plein milieu d'une foule on se sent plus vulnérable , mais je n'ai pas ce ressenti en Casamance .
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
merci lucc, c'étais chaud ton histoire !
moi je travail à Dakar et je trouve que malgré tous c'est une ville relativement "secure" , j'imagine la meme chose a Paris il t'aurait surement bien tapé,
sinon je connaissais le president du cvd dont tu parle et l'histoire est selon beaucoup de gens de l'entourage bien plus complexe qu'un simple combriolage, d'un coté ca rassure un peu puisque "normalement" les vol simple avec violence reste rare !
y a un "demi vieu" senegalais a qui il manque une dent qui sévie aussi a dakar avec a peu pres le meme procedé que les jeunes ont employé pour ton histoire, ca photo est affiché au 23bima et au cvd pour la mise en garde, faudrait peus etre la poster ici !
"Je viens de lire ton compte-rendu d'agression ! Dakar est une ville à éviter, surtout la nuit, et certains quartiers toute la journée ! Certains voyous tuent pour seulement quelques milliers de CFA. "
Bonjour, Oui enfin si je peux me permettre; afin de vendre la Casamance sur ce forum, il ne faudrait pas non plus noircir le tableau du reste du Sénégal et notamment Dakar. Dakar est une mégalopole avec ses voyous et ses risques inhérents à toute mégalopole du tiers monde c'est sur; mais ce n'est pas non plus un coupe gorge à tous les coins de rue. Il suffit d'être prudent notamment la nuit comme toute grande ville.
Bonjour, Oui enfin si je peux me permettre; afin de vendre la Casamance sur ce forum, il ne faudrait pas non plus noircir le tableau du reste du Sénégal et notamment Dakar. Dakar est une mégalopole avec ses voyous et ses risques inhérents à toute mégalopole du tiers monde c'est sur; mais ce n'est pas non plus un coupe gorge à tous les coins de rue. Il suffit d'être prudent notamment la nuit comme toute grande ville.
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
bonjour Alex
noircir une région pour roser une autre n'est pas le but , c'est juste une constatation ! mais c'est bien triste de voir autant de noirceur sur ce site et d'autres pour la Casamance , alors que ceux qui y vivent et ceux qui y vont en vacances s'y sentent aussi bien . bon weekend francia
noircir une région pour roser une autre n'est pas le but , c'est juste une constatation ! mais c'est bien triste de voir autant de noirceur sur ce site et d'autres pour la Casamance , alors que ceux qui y vivent et ceux qui y vont en vacances s'y sentent aussi bien . bon weekend francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Bonjour Francia;
Oui bien sur mais je m'élevais sur le tableau peint par ce Monsieur de Dakar; c'est une mégalopole avec ses risques bien sur; mais pas un coupe gorge non plus à condition de respecter les précautions d'usage Je suis allé plusieurs fois à Manille aux Philippines qui a triste réputation; et pourtant ce n'est pas le coupe gorge qu'on cherche à nous représenter vu d'ici; c'est une mégalopole avec ses risques mais moyennant de la prudence, ça n'est pas désagréable d'y faire un tour. Le risque zéro n'existant pas bien sur🤪
Bon week end🙂
Oui bien sur mais je m'élevais sur le tableau peint par ce Monsieur de Dakar; c'est une mégalopole avec ses risques bien sur; mais pas un coupe gorge non plus à condition de respecter les précautions d'usage Je suis allé plusieurs fois à Manille aux Philippines qui a triste réputation; et pourtant ce n'est pas le coupe gorge qu'on cherche à nous représenter vu d'ici; c'est une mégalopole avec ses risques mais moyennant de la prudence, ça n'est pas désagréable d'y faire un tour. Le risque zéro n'existant pas bien sur🤪
Bon week end🙂
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Par la route du barrage de Diama (pour éviter Rosso), si le voyage est envisagé hors saison des pluies (juin/juillet à fin octobre).
Au Sénégal, la route Kaolack Ziguinchor est abominable, je l'ai faite au mois d'octobre. Une solution pour éviter cela et aussi la traversée de la Gambie - toujours assomante, pour ne pas dire plus - le ferry Aline Sitoé Diatta de Dakar à Ziguinchor. Je vais faire la remontée Cabrousse France début mai, et il est certain que je prendrai le ferry dans le sens contraire pour éviter cette route.
Voilà, suis un habitué de la Casamance et peut donner quelques renseignements, sans aucune prétention !
Je ne "vends " pas la Casamance !
Et Dakar, comme toute grande ville, comporte des risques, légèrement amplifiés par la misère qui règne dans certans quartiers ; voilà ce que j'ai voulu dire, et rien de plus !
oui biensur mais pour moi ca reste moin dangereux qu'une grande ville francaise ou la nuit tu peux te faire défoncé gratos (sans qu'on te vole)
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I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
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I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
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On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
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FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
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Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!






