Travel journals · Western Europe

Our trip to Norway was two years ago already, but I thought it might still be of interest—and it’ll let me relive it a bit by proxy.

Before booking our flight tickets, we debated the route: should we prioritize the north with the Lofoten and Senja islands, or the south with its countless fjords? I was tempted to stay in the south—the country is so vast, and the drive north is long... but my husband really didn’t want to miss the Lofoten. In the end, we figured that since Norway is known for being expensive, we might only visit once (funny how we said the same thing before our first trip to the American West, and look how that turned out 😎), so we didn’t want to skip anything. That meant a 2–3 day drive up north. With 22 days on the ground, it was doable. Especially since, as usual, we skip big cities and gave Oslo a pass.

Practical details: - Flight tickets: 1195 € for 4 with Air France (Paris–Oslo outbound, Tromsø–Bergen–Paris return) - Car rental: 2020 € for 21 days (including the outrageous drop-off fee between Oslo and Tromsø—about 1000 €) - Tolls and ferries: 250 € for the portion billed directly by the rental company. Some ferries required advance booking and payment at the time of reservation—I’ll note their prices as I go through the story. - Hotels: 4135 €, averaging 188 € per night. We blew past our usual budgets from trips to the U.S., but oh well... - Food: 1570 €, averaging 71 € per day for 4 in a country where everything’s expensive... How’d we manage? We rarely ate out, mostly grocery shopped, and even packed half a suitcase with non-perishables: pasta, rice, a few cans, and even some cured sausage! We also stayed 3 nights at Clarion Collection hotels, where an evening buffet was included in the room rate.

Hi everyone!!!

I’m finally getting around to writing about this 20-day trip to southern Italy: we didn’t travel this summer, and luckily, we found beautiful light and dreamy weather there at the end of September.

First, here’s the context of the trip: we’re both "confirmed seniors" but still curious and alert enough to enjoy the itinerary we’d imagined! We wanted a mix of discoveries—culture, cities, and nature—with guaranteed sunshine and the occasional short hike... We’re flying to Naples, round-trip, because the flight times work better for us. We rented a car online, picked it up at the airport (details to come... and it won’t be the highlight of the trip!), and booked our hotels in advance.

A quick overview of the itinerary: leaving Naples on September 15th, early in the morning, we’ll drive straight across the boot of Italy to Bari. After 11 days in Puglia, we’ll head back toward our starting point, taking our time: Matera in Basilicata, Maratea by the sea, and finally Paestum with its incredible temples.

Day 1: Brussels-Naples flight (Brussels Airlines) went smoothly; it landed an hour early, and we were thrilled, thinking we could use that time for a quick visit or two... Everything went well until we left the airport. We took the shuttle to the car rental offices, and at first glance, we realized this wouldn’t be smooth sailing!!! In front of every office (they’re side by side), there were already lines and kids sitting on suitcases—everyone looked exhausted... We resigned ourselves to waiting: nothing moved until tempers flared at the counters, and two people nearly came to blows. Things sped up a little, and after 2 (two...) hours of waiting, we finally got our chariot: a black Fiat Tipo, dirty, with a few dents and scratches that we made sure to note in the contract... but it ran!

Off to Bari, then: no time for sightseeing along the way! From there, we headed straight to our hotel in the countryside near Polignano a Mare.



A recurring detail: this happened constantly during our travels. We’d installed our own GPS, fully updated... In recent years, many dirt roads have become drivable, and lots of hotels and hostels have opened in the outskirts of towns. It was extremely rare for our ‘guide’ to recognize the street—let alone the number—we entered. Often, we got by calling the hotel reception: it might seem like a small thing, but it happened so often it became frustrating. In hindsight, it seems like without Google Maps, we’d have been lost!

Anyway, we were beautifully settled, with a terrace overlooking olive groves and the sea in the distance: all was well.



To be continued...

After several trips to Tenerife, we’re finally discovering the beautiful island of Lanzarote this year! We fell in love with this small island with its magnificent volcanoes and white villages without large hotel complexes!



I won’t be writing a day-by-day travel journal, but rather giving an overview of our experience! For hiking, we chose trails that were about an hour long and accessible for my mom, but we noted some longer ones to do if we come back—I’ll talk about those later!

To visit the sites, depending on the places you choose, you can get BONOS for discounts: more details here: https://turismolanzarote.com/fr/cact-lanzarote-tarifs-et-abonnements/ We bought ours at the first site we visited (Montañas del Fuego), but you have to ask for them—otherwise, they won’t offer them. Make sure to plan ahead which places to include.

Our favorites were the volcanic discoveries and other landscapes of the island: EL PARQUE TIMANFAYA: Las Montañas del Fuego ****

Stunning colors—it’s absolutely breathtaking! Our only regret is not being able to hike through these incredible landscapes!



GPS: 29°00'21.6"N 13°45'11.7"W 9 AM - 5:45 PM

We’d noted, “Best to go early in the morning or late in the evening.” We arrived 5 minutes before the park opened. We’d barely parked when we hopped on the first bus for the mandatory 14 km tour included in the ticket. Perfect—no waiting! We sat on the right side of the bus for the best views. Afterward, we watched the geothermal demonstrations. It’s amazing how hot those little rocks picked up from the ground feel in your hand!



When we left, we saw how right the advice to arrive early was! Newcomers had to queue first to pay at the entrance, then again to access the parking (which was full, so they only let cars in when a spot opened up), and yet again to board the bus! We wouldn’t have wanted to deal with all that!

MONTAÑA CUERVO*** (Crow Mountain) Hike: 1-2 hours / 4 km GPS: 28°59'46.7"N 13°41'04.5"W

A small crater where wild geraniums grow! The hike is short, easy, and very pleasant. It follows a lava field covered in pale-green lichens before entering the crater. To avoid crowds, don’t go too late! We were lucky to have the parking lot almost to ourselves—lots of people were arriving later, even buses!





MONTANA COLORADA*** Hike: 1 hour – beautiful and easy, peaceful, no crowds. GPS: 29°00'18.0"N 13°41'01.7"W The trail loops around this stunning red mountain. Gorgeous colors, striking contrasts, and amazing volcanic rocks! Keep an eye on the ground—you’ll find little “green gems” in the small volcanic stones!







CUEVAS DE LOS VERDES*** We were more drawn to Las Cuevas, which felt more natural, than Los Jameos—though some might find the latter more beautiful, it’s more developed. GPS: 29°09'38.9"N 13°26'19.2"W 10 AM - 6 PM. Guided tour lasts just under an hour. Avoid late morning or early afternoon visits—it gets crowded. A tunnel and volcanic tube formed by an eruption of Monte Corona. The cave is named after the Verdes family, who once owned it. The space is often wide but sometimes narrow! The visit is very impressive, with a great surprise at the end!









VOLCANO MONTAÑA ROJA** in Playa Blanca A hike you can do on foot from our hotel! Beautiful views from the top of the volcano. You can walk around it, see amazing rocks, and even descend into the crater (a different perspective with stunning colors).

It was the start of winter; I was freezing, and the mood wasn’t exactly joyful—Ukraine, 49.3... So I self-medicated: a week in Italy to hear laughter and that melodic language, and of course, to immerse myself in beauty for a while. I was looking for a destination: Florence. The choice was biased because I wanted to revisit *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus*. Then came the choice of airline: Vueling flies directly to Florence, but you’ve got to know how to handle Vueling—sometimes you make it to your destination, sometimes you’re left at the gate. It’s not expensive, but that’s about all it’s worth. Best to know their rules of the game. Plus, Vueling leaves from Orly, which is super easy to get to by metro. The gods were with me that day—Vueling actually got me to Florence. On arrival, the temperature was better than forecast, and I knew the days were slightly longer in Italy (and shorter in Stockholm). And the Italian language was floating in the air... I took the new tram that takes you to the heart of the city, near the great "cheesecake" that’s said to mark the superiority of the Renaissance over Europe’s sublime Gothic cathedrals. I walked around the big pastry and turned onto *my* street, Via dei Servi. Along the way, I stewed over my guilt for not admiring the sublime *Duomo*; I hoped no police had detected my rebellious, deviant mindset. I’d chosen a hotel on the stunning Piazza della Santissima Annunziata—I’ll even share its name, that’s the VF spirit: it’s the Hotel Due Fontane. And that’s the real point of this post: until Easter, you can treat yourself to a room in a very charming hotel for around 60 €, breakfast buffet included! To do this, book on Booking.com and make it clear you’ll return the next day with a new reservation at that price. You’ll have left your things in the luggage room to move into a new room in the evening. I didn’t have to play that game since the reception gave me a long-term stay at a reduced rate. The next day, the kind barista drew a perfect, beautiful flower on my cappuccino. That man was the smile and good cheer of Italy. Florence had more to offer, and this time I wasn’t being picky like I was with the big white pastry: I had a date with *Primavera* and Venus. Off to the Uffizi; the weather was decent, much warmer than Paris, and the girls were laughing. Arriving at the Uffizi: had I bought a skip-the-line ticket? What for? I walked in subito and even got the winter discount rate. You’ll agree that when visiting a museum, it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or not. When I got to Botticelli’s room, I love being alone—I have the illusion of owning two of the most beautiful paintings in the world. There was one tourist there that day. We admired *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus* without getting in each other’s way; those young women painted so long ago show such beauty and radiate such elegance, especially in their faces. I hesitated about going to the Accademia, but David is worth a revisit. If a skip-the-line ticket is ever needed, it’s here. But no! I walked in subito! Usually, women don’t openly show their attraction, but you might hear "He’s cute" about a man. Around David, it’s amusing to see they’re not immune to the sight. Off to the Medici Chapels; entrance subita. I felt humbled by the princes’ munificence and the master’s works. Then it was time for a stroll—maybe a Mannerist painting at Santa Felicita (oh, miracle, it was open), or playing the game of comparing the two crucifixes, including Donatello’s, sipping a Spritz in a little bar with a view of the Ponte Vecchio, wandering Via Roma in the evening among the cheerful crowd and shops decked out for Christmas. Seeing the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine for its frescoes and the Italian Pantheon at Santa Croce (Napoleon’s first girlfriend is buried there). Italy, land of frescoes! Every evening, until I exhausted my pasta card, I enjoyed spaghetti on *my* Via dei Servi.

The point of this post: you can visit Florence at a very low cost, without impossible queues, and without tourist pressure, in reasonably warm weather until Easter. In May, the Due Fontane charges 220 to 250 €! For the rest, I may have rambled a bit. PS: Vueling stranded me on the way back; my punishment was staying an extra day in this incredibly welcoming city.

"The Most Refreshing Way to Travel Around Belgium" This is the title of the guide published by Pierre Pauquay at Éditions HELVETIQ Sàrl, Lausanne, Switzerland, 2023. I set off for Belgium with my camper van and my electric-assist bike, eager to deepen both my theoretical and practical knowledge of this country’s emblematic beverage while exploring the land. This guide became my trusted companion throughout the journey, which took place from June 4 to July 4, 2024. Out of the 40 routes presented, I chose 21, covering a broad swath of Belgium—both Wallonia (14 routes) and Flanders (6 routes), plus one route around the Brussels-Capital region with a visit to the famous Grimbergen brewery. Every route included a stop at a brewery, whether lesser-known or famous, artisanal or industrial, family-run or Trappist. In total, I logged 1,111.2 km of biking over 58 hours and 42 minutes of pedaling, averaging 3 hours of cycling per ride of 55.6 km. I visited 21 breweries, toured a few, and had just one flat tire (I didn’t count the number of beers, but I tasted them all...). I wasn’t always able to park my camper van near the brewery planned for that day’s route, but I made sure to enjoy the famous nectar only after completing the physical exercise required by the loops. Traveling by camper van, I needed routes that formed a loop, starting and ending in the same place. Except in Brussels, I never had to rely on campsites for a safe night’s stay. I always found a welcoming public or private parking spot, secure enough to prepare for the next day’s ride. I discovered Belgium from top to bottom, through hills (not very high) and valleys (very flat and often windy), at my own pace. I stopped whenever a photo caught my eye, grabbed a bite or a drink in the villages I passed through, and often felt like I was truly part of the landscape, in sync with the country’s rhythm and curious to see how people lived... More to come, with photos in a future post... Thanks for reading...

Hello everyone,

I’m trying to take the time to share one or two travel journals I wrote elsewhere (the forum wasn’t accessible when I was writing them...).

My partner and I went to Stockholm from February 27th to March 1st, 2024.

It was a pretty short trip, shaped by the usual factors: time, budget, and the kids.

We live not far from Luxembourg City (about an hour away), and when we can, we fly with Luxair. It’s a quality airline, but it’s a bit pricey.

This trip was originally planned for 2022, but it was canceled by the airline a few weeks before departure. Since the flight was on a De Havilland Q-400 with a max of 76 passengers, I think there just weren’t enough people booked.

So, we booked a flight with checked baggage and seat selection (2 + 2 seating) for around 400 € round trip.

For the hotel, I chose the **Radisson Blu Waterfront** through Booking.com for just under 600 €, including breakfast.

PS: I had to grab photos from the web and adjust their resolution, so they’re not amazing—sorry about that!

Hello everyone,

As usual, I’m posting a new travel journal about our trip to Norway last September. This one will span several months, with a day-by-day account of our adventure. I won’t be posting many photos on the forum (the publishing rules have become even more complicated since my last journal), but you can find all the shots on my blog (address in my signature).

We’ve just returned from a truly extraordinary, unforgettable trip. Planning this trip wasn’t easy, and I’ll admit I struggled to decide on the itinerary… Should we take the Hurtigruten all the way from the south to the north? But a whole trip by boat didn’t really appeal to us. Or focus on the south in the fjord region? But that would mean missing out on the Lofoten Islands… In the end, we chose to concentrate on southern Norway, exploring the coast and fjords, while including a stop in Oslo and mixing train, boat, and car travel. I also opted for a trip where we’d drive less than in previous years (1,650 km compared to 2,000 km in Portugal and 3,800 km in the American West), but we’d still move around a bit and do some hikes. Here’s the itinerary we followed:



This trip was absolutely amazing and introduced us to so many things we’d never seen or done before—fjords, a night on a boat, glaciers, stave churches, snow in summer (…and the high cost of living!).

If we had to sum up our top highlights, here’s our top 3: Mr.:

the variety of landscapes the colors, especially the colors of the water—from crystal clear to light blue and turquoise in some spots eating good fish

Mrs.:

the roads: the ones in the area we explored were truly stunning Geirangerfjord, especially in the late afternoon, when it was quiet and free of cruise ships the Trolltunga hike: a challenging trek and a little personal achievement for us

What we liked less:

the sometimes inconsistent signage on hikes the cost of living (everything costs money, and even food is expensive) the tunnels: there are so many, and they’re not much fun (except for one with a roundabout inside…!)

That’s it for this first summary/overview, and I can already tell that choosing photos is going to be tough!!! Here’s a little preview of what we discovered:



To see the photos in full size on my blog: check it out here

As planned every year for quite some time now, here we are in Italy on the Ligurian Coast to spend a few days and celebrate New Year's 2024/2025.

Our base is in the charming town of Rapallo, between Genoa and La Spezia. We're right on the coast, with our hotel offering a sea view and access to the beach.

Not far from Rapallo, you can find, besides the Cinque Terre, Portofino, Santa Margherita Ligure, Chiavari, and others like Carrara and even Pisa. In short, there's plenty to do.

Five days there with so-so weather, and crowds but nothing overwhelming.

For the trip between home and our base, we're using an electric vehicle. It's manageable without any issues. The hotel has outlets, and otherwise, there are charging points all over Italy. And just to note, Tesla chargers are the best in terms of cost and charging speed.

There you have it.

Once we arrived on Sunday, December 29th, it was time to go for a walk, book a restaurant for Monday evening, and finalize the itinerary.

On Monday the 30th, we were lucky enough to see a beautiful sunrise from our window.











And the town of Rapallo in the early morning!

Hi there,

A little travel journal of our few days in Tuscany in August 2024 with our three daughters aged 16 months, 4, and 6. A beautiful trip but ruined by extreme heat. The same thing in spring or autumn would have been magical.

Itinerary We used our own car for this mini-trip.

Carpentras-Isolalunga: 1 night

Isolalunga-Barberino (Val d’Elsa): 4 nights

Lucca and Pisa

Siena

Val d’Orcia

Volterra

Barberino-Carpentras

Visits

Lucca is less well-known than its neighbors Florence, Pisa, and Siena. Yet it was already a prosperous city during the Renaissance. The Duomo is magnificent, and strolling along the ramparts in the shade of the trees is very pleasant. The large square, where the buildings were constructed using the walls of the amphitheater, is a curiosity. We used the stroller.

Pisa needs no introduction, but it’s also impossible to pass by without stopping. Alexandre and I had already visited it 15 years ago, so this time we didn’t climb the tower or go inside the Duomo. We arrived around 5 PM, so we were short on time, but the heat had dropped, which made the visit very enjoyable.

Siena is a magnificent city but dry. There’s no watercourse here, which has always been the city’s problem. Everything was designed, including the slope of the main square to collect water. The Duomo is absolutely stunning. We bought the pass to visit the Duomo, the baptistery, the crypt, the museum of the works, the panorama, and the “Gate of Heaven.”

The “Gate of Heaven” is a guided tour that allows you to climb to the top of the Duomo, walk under the roof to see the framework, and admire the beautiful frescoes on the floor from above, as well as the stained glass and ceiling paintings from much closer. Of course, the view of Siena from up there is splendid. It’s really worth it. We left the stroller downstairs, and Alex carried Artemisia.

The museum of the works contains some magnificent paintings and original sculptures from the Duomo.

We didn’t find a park for a picnic. We had to settle for a public garden that wasn’t really well-maintained.

Our visit for the “Gate of Heaven” was at 6:30 PM, so we had dinner in Siena. The restaurant was expensive and disappointing. However, we enjoyed the city’s parade—lots of people in costume, plenty of colors, and brass band music. Nice.

Val d’Orcia

The first goal was to see the famous “Gladiator” house, which was used as a set in Ridley Scott’s film. You’ll have to settle for a photo because it’s not open for visits. The place is pretty, but no more so than many Tuscan estates, so I’d say it’s not worth the detour.

We visited the lovely village of San Quirico d’Orcia, where we had a picnic. In the afternoon, we saw the beautiful Abbey of San Galgano and the Chapel of San Lorenzo, where a sword is planted in the stone (its owner stopped waging war to dedicate his life to God—no apparent connection to the legend of King Arthur). The abbey is in ruins, but the site, planted with cypress trees and sunflower fields, is very beautiful.

Volterra

Volterra is a hilltop village with many facets, aside from a still-active penitentiary in the old fortification.

We bought the “Volterra Card” to visit, in particular, the Palazzo dei Priori, which is as beautiful inside as it is outside, and to climb to the top of the tower, where the view is magnificent.

The Roman ruins (especially the amphitheater and arenas under excavation)

The alabaster museum is very small but highlights one of the region’s ongoing activities.

The Etruscan art museum is a must-see. It’s a high-quality museum with many pieces, mainly richly decorated tombs depicting the lives of the deceased. And it’s air-conditioned!

It’s a bit of a hassle with the stroller. A baby carrier would have been more practical.

We had a picnic in the lovely Enrico Fiumi Park (with playgrounds for kids), which overlooks the city.

There are many charming shops in Volterra for bringing back souvenirs, especially food-related ones.

I find that hotels are very expensive in Italy, so I opted for a farmhouse rental.

We picnicked at lunchtime and ate at restaurants or in our accommodation in the evening. Unfortunately, I can’t recommend any great restaurants.

Budget

Accommodation: 120 € per night

Volterra family card: 20 €

Quick recap of a getaway to Sicily (June 3–13, 2022).

Day 1: Transavia flight to Palermo from Lyon Day 2: Zingaro Reserve (14 km coastal trail round-trip, about 4 hours of hiking + coves) / Evening in Scopello Day 3: Segesta + Erice via cable car + evening in Trapani (free parking at Piazza Vit. Emmanuele) Day 3: Bike day in Favignana (Cala Rosa, Cala Azzurra) Day 4: Marsala (quick stop at the salt flats), Selinunte, and sleepover in Agrigento Day 5: Day in Agrigento: Valley of the Temples, Temple of Concordia, Temple of Hercules, Temple of Juno, Temple of Castor and Pollux Day 6: Villa Romana del Casale and Cefalù in the late afternoon Day 7: Relaxing beach day in Cefalù Day 8: Mosaics in Monreale Cathedral, then Palermo Day 9: Palermo Day 10: Return to Lyon

8 days on the ground covering 650 km, scorching heat all week (37°C in Zingaro), and a ridiculously expensive car rental (Sicily by Car).

Some truly great accommodations:

- Tre Giummare in Scopello (despite the AC breaking down the night before) - Laurus Apartments in Trapani (perfect for the Favignana ferry) - Terrazze di Montelusa in Agrigento (worth seeing—very unique!) - Rurale, Via Lancenia 22 in Cefalù (for the pool view!) - Il Giardino di Ballarò in Palermo (charming and right in the heart of the city)

Our top picks:

- Favignana (by far the highlight of the trip) - The temples in Agrigento - Palermo - The food here is amazing

No real disappointments, but Erice didn’t quite live up to expectations, and we were frustrated by the car rental prices.

Side note: make sure to specify that your card is a *credit* card (not debit). Ours was a deferred debit card, and our bank had the sense to label it "credit card"—otherwise, you’d be on the hook for an extra 200 €... those Southern Italians!

Hike in Zingaro:







Segesta:

Hello everyone,

I’m happy to be back at my keyboard to share a few adventures. 😉

Right now, two more trips are in the works for 2025, but for the moment, I’d rather share than ask questions.

Like many of you, Iceland has been a longtime love of mine. My first trip there was in February 2016, when we went as a family of five—including our three daughters, who were 1, 6, and 5 at the time. It was a very short stay with just one place to stay, north of the capital. We explored the south, from Vik to Grindavik, and of course, I was left wanting more. We returned in April 2018 during a stopover on our way back from New York. We spent three days near Borgarnes, but fatigue and the weather kept me from doing everything I’d planned. After my mom passed away in January 2023, I decided to go back to Iceland for a full week. Just to clear my head... I thought I’d go alone, but in the end, my 8-year-old daughter (at the time) is a huge horseback riding fan, so I decided to take her along. This road trip came together quickly thanks to another well-known French-speaking forum for Iceland lovers. As usual, I quickly checked availability on Booking and flights with Icelandair. Booked the flight, then the accommodations—with quite a few changes right up until departure. Goals for this trip:

Go where I haven’t been yet. Do a road trip because I love them. Go horseback riding with my daughter.

Icelandair was booked for May 6–13, 2023. Accommodations were reserved on Booking, and once again, I rented a 4x4 from Blue Car Rental, which I really like. Not wanting to deal with boredom while there, I got all the insurance and the option to skip the counter. My English isn’t great…

Hi everyone,

Le Marche? Where’s that?

That’s what we hear more than 9 times out of 10... This region is actually little-known, or at least only its Adriatic coastline, just below Rimini, rings a bell.

Yet it’s a beautiful region, bordered to the east by the Adriatic Sea and to the west by the Apennine Mountains, with thousands of hills in between—many topped with charming little villages. A very rural area, quite affordable, starting to showcase its heritage, and not yet overrun by tourists... so what are you waiting for?



The distances look short, but the roads are long: aside from the fairly fast routes running from the hinterland down to the coast, following the paths of small rivers that rise in the Apennines and flow into the Adriatic, all the other roads—especially the cross-country ones—wind and twist. They reveal stunning landscapes at every turn but also force you to adjust your sense of time. We stayed in two different spots, each about 30 or 40 km from the coast—first in the north of Le Marche, near Fossombrone, at Isola di Fano, and then in the south, at Montalto delle Marche.

Since this region is still a bit "under the radar," I had some trouble finding information while planning the trip... So this travel journal aims to introduce you to the region through photos and share a few tips along the way.

First up, some views of the landscapes!







More to come in the next post!