Voyage au Maroc (Marrakech - M'Hamid El Ghizlane - Sahara)

Bonjour aux amoureux du Maroc,

Avant toute chose: un grand merci à tous ceux dont on peut savourer les posts éclairés, marrants, vivants, dépaysants... Un bonheur de trouver de si jolies plumes sur ce forum, qui m'ont donné une foultitude d'idées et d'adresses pour préparer notre voyage.

Notre projet: sillonner le Maroc du 2 novembre au 4 déc. Nous aurons notre propre véhicule (Renault GrandScenic 2011, en très bon état), embarqué avec nous de Sète à TangerMed. Retour depuis Nador.

Notre profil: 75 et 62 étés, donc vieux mais contents de l'être, en très bonne santé. Habitués au voyage - c'est même toute notre vie. Amis des beaux paysages, des vieilles pierres, de l'artisanat soigné et des road trips. Ce sera mon 3e séjour au Maroc, mais le 1 et 2 remontent à 20 ans et 17 ans. Je ne suis jamais allée plus au nord que la ligne Essaouira-Marrakech (mais plus au sud, oui). Quant à mon mari, expat toute sa vie y.c. en pays musulmans, c'est sa première fois au Maroc.

C'est lui qui conduit. Il est très expérimenté, prudent, pas forcément rapide, mais habitué à la conduite dans tous les états (et Etats, yc les plus créatifs sur la route). Mais je ne veux pas le fatiguer et il ne conduit plus de nuit (et on sera en novembre).

J'ai pris le parti de lui faire voir un peu de tout en faisant un road-trip par de belles petites routes, avec des trajets en moyenne de 180-200 km/jour (sauf si autoroute, mais ce sera rare), régulièrement entrecoupés de jours de pause. Je compte une vitesse de 40 à 50 km/h, plus arrêts/visites sur le trajet.

Comme j'ai bien tout lu plein de posts, j'en arrive à des questions assez précises.

1) En provenance directe de Rabat par autoroute, nous préférons zapper Marrakech*. Néanmoins, il faudra bien dormir quelque part autour. On partira le lendemain direction Skoura. Quelqu'un aurait-il une adresse bien positionnée pour ce trajet, év. à l'est de Marrakech ? Nous recherchons idéalement dans une petite ville, facile à se garer, un hébergement propre (minimum) au confort moyen (ou plus si ça se trouve), un peu chauffé et si possible joli et/ou sympa - mais il s'agit avant tout de bien dormir, de se laver à l'eau tiède (idéalement chaude) et de dîner correctement.

(*Explication du "no-go" à Marrakech: certes c'est malheureux, parce qu'il y a de bien belles choses dans cette ville, mais je crois que l'ambiance ne va pas nous plaire - c'est un euphémisme pour "nous rebuter" / "nous faire fuir" / "nous traumatiser". Pas parce qu'il y a trop de monde et qu'on veut se distinguer des touristes, alors qu'on en fait partie, mais parce que le henné forcé sur votre main qu'on attrape, ou passer 10' tous les quarts d'heure à dire "non merci" à un guide, qui est autant guide que moi trapéziste, nous connaissant ça va nous faire du mal. Or, le pays est bien assez vaste et beau, et notre temps bien trop court, pour aller gâcher nos souvenirs quelques jours à peine après l'arrivée. Et je ne veux pas insulter l'avenir en braquant mon paisible époux, sinon il exigera de faire demi-tour et Sète en novembre, ça ne m'emballe pas plus que ça).

2) Quelle route direction Skoura (en 2 jours) ? Je vois 2 possibilités: soit par le col du Tichka, avec nuit à Telouet avant de rejoindre Skoura, soit par la R307/N23 depuis Demnate, avec nuit vers Megdaz avant descente à Skoura. Alors: col du Tichka ou R307/N23 ? J'ai un petit (grand) faible pour la 2e option, même si je sais que l'autre route est très belle aussi. Evidemment, avant de décider, on se renseignera sur la météo et l'état actuel de la R307/N23 - d'ailleurs, quelqu'un sait où obtenir l'info sur l'état de la route ? Mais même en admettant que la route "passe" bien, n'est-elle pas en soi un peu trop pénible ? Bref, est-ce bien raisonnable ? Si une bonne âme veut bien partager son expérience, mille merci d'avance.

Voilà, j'en ai assez écrit. Je laisse les autres questions pour d'autres posts. Encore merci à ceux qui ont eu la patience de me lire et à ceux qui pourront répondre. Joyeux dimanche à tous

Fran

Bonjour!

Avec nos deux ados, nous allons passer deux semaines au Maroc à la fin décembre-début janvier. Ce sera notre premier voyage plus "dépaysant", bien que nous ayons visité plusieurs pays jusqu'à maintenant. Vu l'abondance d'infos, je suis plutôt overwhelmed avec la préparation que ce voyage exige et j'avoue être un peu perdue quant à évaluer ce qui est réaliste de visiter ou pas en 2 semaines 😕 Tous vos conseils, retour d'expériences et suggestions sont donc ici les bienvenus!

- Quels endroits seraient à privilégier à cette période de l'année (j'ai vu que certains endroits étaient moins accessibles en hiver?) - Préférable de circuler de quelle façon ? (location d'auto, train, transport privé, autobus, etc.? -- à noter que nous aurons tout de même quelques valises!) - Niveau "sécurité", des zones à éviter? - Des suggestions de compagnies touristiques fiables (outre les grosses bannières de type "get your guide") qui offrent des excursions, ou encore des transports privés pour nous permettre de découvrir le pays? - Un itinéraire jouable en 2 semaines sans devoir changer d'hébergement aux 2 jours et apprécier la diversité du pays?

Un grand merci pour vos conseils!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you: - Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why? - Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies. - Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car? - Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.

Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years. Have a great evening, Roberto

hi, I just wanted to know the exchange rate for euros in Tunisia, thanks

hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend? Cheers, Laurent.

Hi there,

I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili? If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them. I didn’t find any info on the forum. Best,

Fouzi

We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips! Annie

Hi, This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car. Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!! Thanks

Hi everyone, We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route. Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of? Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Hello, In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse. We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options. Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I'm looking for a pool to go to with my wife and my 8-year-old son in the Targa neighborhood of Marrakech, or near that area.

Thanks in advance for your help. didier

Hi there, 🙂

This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.

After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.

My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.

That’s a lot of cities. Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...

So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.

If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)

Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉

Thanks

Based on your experiences, do you have a professional to recommend?

Hello, I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.

There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.

I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...

I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...

Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...

Hello, I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026. I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application: - Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip? - Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room? - Is it checked during inspections? - Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa? - If so, does it need to be paid in advance?

I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency. If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!

Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling. We’d organize the journey together, of course.

Thanks for your feedback! Safe travels to all, Dom, Dijon, 64 years old

Hi there,

I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.

I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).

I’ll be getting around by public transport.

I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.

If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm looking for a taxi from Dakhla airport to downtown Dakhla. If you know a contact ?????

Hi there, I’m looking for info about driving a vehicle in Tunisia. Is it complicated? Do I need an international driver’s permit? Thanks for your help

Hi there,

I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.

Any recommendations?

Have a great day

It's all in the title. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone,

Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.

A few questions:

1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!

2) What documents are required for the car?

3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊

I know there are experts on this forum.

Thanks in advance

Hi there, I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026. In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.

hi,

I’m planning to take the SETE-TANGER ferry with my car.

No agency in my town sells tickets.

Has anyone done this before and can point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance.

have a good day

Good evening, everyone!

I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.

Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...

I’ll be arriving in Tangier. Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel... Day 3: Stop in Tetouan Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!) Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad) After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)

From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF). Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?

Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊

Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site (though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info (name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal? Thanks for your replies.

Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!

Hi everyone! :)

I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.

We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).

Here’s my proposed itinerary:

Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight

What do you think?

I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?

Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!

All ears! :)

Thanks in advance and have a great day!

Clément

A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.

In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.

1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.

2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.

3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.

4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.

5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.

6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.

I think that’s it for now.

Take care

Hi everyone! 😊 We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street). I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏 🚗 Vehicle rental We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance. 👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share? 👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance? 🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:

We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)

👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:

Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur

👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?

If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖