Cape Verde island duo: which to choose based on my criteria?

Hello Agnès! What a great idea, Cape Verde! [;)]

First off, forget about swimming in the spring—or pack a wetsuit, because it’s still the Atlantic out there. Even in July, I found it chilly!

For a 15-day trip, the ideal combo would be finding an international flight that lands in Praia (Santiago) and returns from Mindelo (São Vicente). TAP should have options from Lyon, and this way, you avoid extra transfers (just Santiago to São Vicente by ferry). If you manage that, you can visit Santiago, São Vicente, and Santo Antão—my favorite island (though I haven’t seen them all).

Otherwise, you could book a round-trip Lyon/Praia (via Lisbon) and add a Praia/Mindelo round-trip flight (keeping it to two internal flights, as per your criteria), with some buffer time for potential delays.

Either way, to get to Santo Antão from Mindelo, there’s a very reliable ferry. And honestly, visiting Cape Verde without stopping by Santo Antão would be a shame…

Hi there! For me, there’s no contest, as they say. There’s Santo Antão and then the other islands... And since you pretty much have to go through São Vicente to get there, the duo is a no-brainer. You can easily rent a car to explore Santo Antão, even though that’s not what we did. It’s clear that for hiking (especially), I don’t usually recommend renting a car, but on this island, public transport isn’t very practical or comfortable—especially if you’re traveling with luggage. Plus, taxis or private drivers are relatively expensive, so renting a car ended up being an option that wouldn’t have cost us more... São Vicente, on the other hand, deserves 2 or 3 days. Exploring the island is quite interesting. Same goes for Santiago. We skipped Fogo since we’ve climbed several similar volcanoes (ash cones) before and weren’t that interested in desert landscapes. PS: It had been a long time since I’d explored an island so "natural" (with its traditional farming communities) and so untouched by tourists as Santo Antão... You could easily spend a full week there, even if you’re rushing through! The best duo is São Vicente/Santo Antão, but the best flight option from Lyon (with Transavia) is to Praia or Sal... Sal isn’t as unpleasant as I’d imagined for enjoying its beaches (2 days)—one of them is relatively quiet given its length... Just a heads-up: these flatter islands are often windy, which is why they attract kite surfers. Direct flights with Transavia are, in my opinion, preferable to TAP’s—more expensive, less reliable, and less convenient with the layover in Lisbon...

PS: For Santo Antão (Porto Novo), it's a 50-minute ferry from Mindelo (São Vicente). There are 2 ferries in the morning and one or two in the afternoon. The crossing costs 6 or 7 euros. No airport. That’s what still guarantees its tranquility, but not for much longer.

Hey Bruno,

I immediately thought of you when I opened this discussion. Who knows why???[;)]

I needed a destination with mild temperatures, the next one being the Lofoten Islands in Norway...

The initial idea was Egypt. My partner was worried about temple overload, and I’ve already been there several times.

That left Oman and Cape Verde.

Geopolitics didn’t favor the first option...

Your idea of Santiago, São Vicente, and Santo Antão sounds tempting, but then I’d only have Fogo left for another trip, which seems a bit short for 15 days.

Food for thought!

For flights, it’ll be TAP. There aren’t many options for Praia or São Vicente with traditional airlines. From Paris.

Too bad EasyJet doesn’t fly to these islands! As a low-cost option, it’s not too bad, and most importantly, it doesn’t cancel flights left and right like Transavia or worse, Volotea!

How many days would you recommend for São Vicente if I go with the SV-SA duo?

Hi Agnès, What a great idea, Cape Verde! From my point of view, I think SV + SA is a good combination for breathtaking landscapes and authenticity on SA, and then a bit more culture, markets, and beaches on SV. And that way, you save Santiago + Fogo for another trip (and Maio possibly). I also loved Fogo and Maio—they’re my favorites after... Santo Antão, of course! I live here! ;O)

For flights to São Vicente, there’s TAP with a layover in Lisbon, of course, but also Cabo Verde Airlines direct from Paris, and Transavia during the winter months. And contrary to what you said, there’s now easyJet from Lisbon to São Vicente twice a week!! It’s recent! If you’re traveling without checked luggage, it might be worth it. So you could take an easyJet flight to Lisbon and then another from there to SV.

Otherwise, don’t worry—November is actually a good time for swimming. The summer has warmed up the water, and I find it’s often warmer than in the middle of summer. Though I’m not the best reference since I swim year-round, even in cold water (when the sea isn’t too rough, of course!!).

If you choose to visit SV + SA, for two weeks I think 10 days on SA and 4-5 on SV works well. Even if you’re not big hikers, there’s plenty to do on SA without rushing and taking your time to soak in the local pace of life. Don’t hesitate if you need more info. Marie

Hi Marie,

If I understand correctly, SA + SV is the best option for a first trip. [;)]

For EasyJet, I was thinking from France (Paris, Lyon, or Toulouse). From Lisbon, it means adding another flight and the risks of separate tickets.

Unless EasyJet offers connections? I’ll go take a look.

We always have at least one checked bag.

For the beach, we’ll be there in March, not November.

We’re not the type to stay all day—just a walk, a swim, and a bit of relaxation.

The northern islands are windier. So it might be a bit tight... But if it’s warm out, the cold water is way less bothersome. You don’t freeze once you’re out!

21 or around there—or less???

If it’s easy to spend 9/10 days on SA without getting bored, that seems like a good solution. I was worried it might be too much.

I’ll be back with more questions once we’ve decided. [:)]

The local expert has spoken, so I'll step back. [;)]

I just checked—EasyJet does offer connecting flights to São Vicente from Geneva with a layover in Lisbon. Worth checking from Paris or Lyon?

I got that you’re going in the spring, which is why I mentioned swimming. Forget about that.

2 nights in Mindelo when you arrive, 2 nights when you leave, and the rest on SA—plenty of time to explore...

On EasyJet, the connection isn't guaranteed. You have to pay extra.

The schedules aren't great at all, and like with TAP, you have to spend the night in Portugal (Porto for EasyJet and Lisbon for TAP).

For a similar price (which isn’t cheap, by the way)!

Flying to Cape Verde is quite the journey...

(The flight schedules were more convenient for Praia) (Well, at least I won’t have to pay for any other flights)

Hi there, Oh shoot, I don’t know why I had November in mind. Well, March it is—brrr, chilly sea!!! I admit this year, since January, I’ve barely gone for a swim... gloomy weather, overcast skies, cold and rough sea. But it depends on the year. Still, in those cases, the difference between air and sea temps isn’t as noticeable, so the water doesn’t feel as cold.

For EasyJet, I’m no expert. You’ll have to check. But two separate tickets could work too, especially if it’s cheaper. Though with EasyJet, as soon as you add luggage, the price jumps!

No, I really think you can spend 10 days on Santo Antão without getting bored—just going with the flow and enjoying it at a relaxed pace. Exploring all over, not just the northeast, which is the most famous and crowded.

Marie

No no Bruno!! Don’t back out!! My perspective, my feelings, and my opinion as a local resident are definitely different from a purely tourist/visitor viewpoint, so every opinion, feeling, and idea is worth considering for future travelers. Marie

The flight times aren't terrible at all and like with TAP, you have to spend the night in Portugal (Porto for EasyJet and Lisbon for TAP).

Indeed, there's a layover night. Funny thing is, from Geneva the stopover is in Lisbon on EasyJet. A night in Lisbon sounds nice, doesn't it? [;)]

For an equivalent price (which isn't cheap, by the way)! You'd deserve a flight to Cape Verde instead...

I had the same thought, since I paid €650/person in July. That's actually what led me to settle in Praia, the most economical option. And departing from Lyon.

No no Bruno!! Don’t back out!!

Don’t worry, that’s not our style [;)]

Yeah, sometimes flights are cheaper to Praia or Sal, but if that’s not the main goal of the trip, it’s often best to avoid them. Because then if you add the cost of domestic flights—plus the hassles of flights around here—it’s not really worth it.

Yeah, Cape Verde isn’t a budget-friendly destination—neither the flights nor the prices once you’re there.

One night on the way there and one night on the way back... It's a destination with few flight hours but lots of connections! 😏

No matter how I look at it, it means nights in Paris, Lyon, Lisbon, or Porto.

TAP's schedules let you sleep longer and avoid paying for a hotel night for nothing.

I'll keep looking! 👋

Yeah, I noticed that car rental prices aren’t exactly cheap. Still deciding whether I’ll rent one or not—maybe just for part of the trip.

For accommodations, there seems to be a bit of everything. Nothing outrageously expensive, but nothing super budget-friendly either, given the cost of living there.

And what about restaurants?

Hi there, For accommodations, there’s a bit of everything, really. On average, a double room in a simple but decent guesthouse or hotel costs around 35-50 €. For restaurants: at lunchtime, you can find daily specials in local eateries for around 3-5 €. Otherwise, a dish in a restaurant is about 7-15 €, depending on what you order. A beer costs 1.5-2 €. Life is expensive for locals too (well... maybe *especially* for them!). Being an archipelago means a lot of imports, and prices have skyrocketed over the last three years—even for basic groceries. Car rental: I’m not totally sure, but I think it’s around 60-70 € per day. It might be more worthwhile on São Vicente for getting around than on Santo Antão. On Santo Antão, since you’ve got time, you can easily use shared or private transport when needed. All in all, I don’t think it’ll end up costing more. Plus, it supports locals and keeps even more cars off the roads. In 15 years, I’ve seen a huge increase in vehicles—both shared and private. Fifteen years ago, there weren’t any rental agencies on SA... Marie

Public transport (alluger) on SA isn’t exactly practical when traveling with somewhat bulky luggage. We had a small one plus my slightly oversized backpack, and once we managed to fit everything by paying for an extra passenger seat, but another time the suitcase ended up on the roof and wasn’t in great shape when we arrived 😢.

"Taxis" are more convenient, especially for being dropped off at a specific spot in the middle of nature before a hike. But when we tallied everything up, since we took quite a few, the cost wasn’t far off from renting a car...

Another pricier but, in my opinion, more enjoyable and practical option is going through the Nobai agency (great reviews, and you can tell they’re specialists). They offer several handy solutions for hiking, with different choices based on your level and preferences.

They provide GPS waypoint maps, detailed descriptions, accommodation bookings, and even an option for luggage transport (the most expensive part). We got a quote with the itinerary, lodging along the route, and luggage transport, but we didn’t go through with it because of the prices. Still, their info was super helpful! 😊

We’ve often wondered the same thing in Cape Verde when looking at the prices: how do they do it?

Gas isn’t cheap (and I imagine it’s even worse right now), and groceries are expensive. For accommodations, we treated ourselves, but you’ll struggle to find anything under 50 € (I had air conditioning as a must in my criteria). For restaurants, if you end up in the tourist circuit, you’re more likely to pay 15 € than 7 €.

For cars, I know Agnès really values her freedom (same as me), but the rental prices put me off, and honestly, we didn’t miss having one. The *collectivos* are efficient, cheap, and fast (except on Sundays 🤷), and they let you connect with locals. For transfers, yes, taxis are 10 times more expensive, but you don’t take them every day, and it’s offset by the savings on renting. 10 days of car rental is at least 600 €—that pays for 2 or 3 taxis.

In the end, I totally agree: Cape Verde is NOT a budget destination like the Canary Islands (low-cost flights, cheap rentals, plenty of lodging options).

But that’s also why I think it’s not overcrowded (except for Sal).

Hi Jean-Michel

For Santiago, I also paid an extra seat (4 €) for the luggage, but the vans were packed for Tarrafal, and I refused to let them put my bags on the roof (no roof rack ).

Since Porto Novo, they all have roof racks, and luggage was included (though the competition is fierce there).

After that, I only made two stops on SA (Paul & Ponta do Sol), so transfers were limited. It’s true that if you’re restless, a car might be worth it.

Provision of detailed GPS point maps, accommodation bookings, and luggage transport... We had a quote drawn up with the details, lodging along the route, luggage transport, but we didn’t follow through because of the prices. Still, their info was really helpful!😄

It’s not cool to swipe info from locals!

I can’t remember exactly where it was, but my wife’s suitcase—thankfully not very new—arrived pretty scratched up after a ride on the roof of the *aluguer*.

In Santiago, we went straight to Tarafal with the hotel’s taxi. It was definitely an oversight by the hotel management, but the taxi driver refused to let us pay him directly. When we left, the 60 € taxi fare didn’t appear on the bill, so we didn’t push to pay it. 😅

PS: If you want to explore pretty much everywhere in Cape Verde (especially the western part) and don’t want or can’t do the big crossing on foot, I think renting a car is the best option—even if it’s not the cheapest.

It’s not cool to steal info from the locals!

Yeah, Bruno, you’re right. Well, partly... Alone, I wouldn’t have done it this way—I was up for island-hopping on foot. But as a couple, you’ve gotta make compromises. Hard to go trekking with a suitcase! Plus, and this is pretty specific to Santo Antão, there aren’t tons of places offering a bit of comfort except along the coast. Up in the highlands, they’re few and often fully booked. So I turned to the Nobai agency, which had been recommended by a hiker from Aix—just like us—who’s experienced in mountain sports but also not exactly young anymore. We were really keen to use Nobai’s services, even though the quote they gave us was way over the budget we’d set. I was hoping for a small discount of around 10%, especially since one of the accommodations they suggested (Quinta Cochete) wasn’t available for two consecutive nights as we’d wanted and was replaced by a lower-quality option. Their answer was no: no negotiation possible. Since the biggest issue for us was managing luggage transport (we could’ve handled the hikes and last-minute lodging just fine), we decided to have our bags transported by taxis instead... which isn’t as simple as it sounds!

On a side note, I don’t think anyone’s mentioned this yet in this post: if you’re looking for quality lodging, it’s *strongly* recommended to book well in advance. I noticed that while basic guesthouses or B&Bs (often run by locals) are rarely booked up, the ones offering great views and comfort are a different story. This is for @Attila—I know you might roll your eyes at my opinions, but I’d still recommend (among others) a really comfortable place with great meal service, but most of all, an amazing view in a particularly enchanting and peaceful setting at Ribeira das Patas. No other houses in sight nearby! It’s: https://quinta-cochete.com/ There are other good-quality options too, like the one you stayed at—same as us—up in the Paul Valley. I’ve forgotten the name, but it’s not bad either, especially for the welcome, services, and meal quality. That said, it’s not as isolated in the heart of nature on the "summits" of central Santo Antão, and since I know Attila loves places like that...

Plus, the spot is perfect for short hikes (Tour du Mato, Forquinha Pass) as well as longer, more thrilling ones (Bordeira do Norte).

It’s not cool to steal info from the locals!

Yeah Bruno, you’re right. Well, partly...

Just teasing, of course...

There are others of good quality too, like the one you went to—just like us—up in the Paul Valley heights, whose name I’ve forgotten. It’s not bad either, especially for the welcome, services, and meal quality, etc. But it’s not isolated in the middle of nature on the "summits" of Santo Antão’s center, in such an enchanting setting—and I know Attila loves that kind of place....

Aldéa Panoramica, one of the few with a pool on the island. Comfort is pretty basic overall, but the welcome is top-notch. Well, for nearly 100 € a night, but you only live once [;)]

L'Aldéa Panoramica, one of the few with a pool on the island. Comfort is pretty basic overall, but the welcome is top-notch. Okay, it’s nearly 100 € a night, but you only live once

Yes, that’s the one. It has the advantage of walks in the Paul Valley, as well as the climb up to Cova Crater and even doing the full loop toward Pico da Cruz, then Cova Crater, and back from the crater. Sure, with a car you can drive to the crater and also to Pico da Cruz by following the paved road, but it’s not the same charm, is it?![;)]

For a first trip, I think São Vicente + Santo Antão is still the most accessible and complete combo. You get:

a real cultural immersion in Mindelo, incredible landscapes in Santo Antão, beautiful hikes, extremely welcoming locals, and a sense of authenticity that’s getting harder to find in some destinations.

It’s also a duo that lets you discover two sides of Cape Verde without multiplying inter-island flights. The hikes in Santo Antão, like the coastal trail between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol, Ribeira da Torre, or the Paul Valley, remain one of my best memories in Cape Verde: raw landscapes, simple encounters, and that feeling of being far from mass tourism. As for the water temperature for swimming, I was there in January-February 2024 and May-June 2025. In both cases, I still went for a dip. It depends on the day. It’s true that in Mindelo, Lajinha Beach was very windy last year. Either way, no matter what you choose, you’re in for some amazing discoveries

A double room in a simple but decent guesthouse/hotel is around 35-50 euros. For restaurants: at lunchtime, you can find daily specials in local eateries for around 3-5 euros. Otherwise, a dish in a restaurant is around 7-15 euros depending on what you order. A beer is 1.5-2 euros.

It’s still very reasonable for my way of traveling (especially the meals).

Car rental: I don’t have much of an idea, but it seems to be around 60-70 euros/day

I just checked. It’s a tad cheaper: 50-60 € for a Suzuki Jimny. [;)]

For the car, I know Agnès really values her freedom (same as me), but the rental prices put me off taking one, and honestly, we didn’t miss it. The collectivos are efficient, cheap, and fast (except on Sundays 🤷), and they let you connect with the locals.

I’m thinking I might do a mix. ;) Part of the trip on SA using collectivos to hike where it’s easy to do that, and another part with a rental car.

yes, the taxi is 10 times more expensive

Do we need to book in advance? (For example, returning from the hike’s endpoint to the accommodation.)

In the end, I totally agree—Cape Verde is NOT a budget destination like the Canary Islands could be (low-cost flights, cheap rentals, accommodation options...)

The Canary Islands have really gone up in price. Flights are more convenient and cheaper, car rentals are affordable if booked by the week, but inter-island flights or ferries aren’t cheap (I paid almost the same for a round trip Lyon–Gran Canaria–Tenerife–Lyon as for Gran Canaria–El Hierro–El Hierro–Tenerife). Renting a car for 2 days is nearly the same price as in Cape Verde, hotels are expensive, and nice rentals aren’t exactly budget-friendly.

My first impressions of Cape Verde are that it’s the international flights holding back this destination (except for all-inclusive islands), not the cost of lodging or cars (rentals are usually pricey where they’re not common... it’s not cheap in Kyrgyzstan either).

It’s super affordable compared to the US, Norway, Switzerland, the Faroe Islands, or Iceland... It seems on par with Southern European countries. Yet those destinations are packed with people.

But getting to São Vicente is way less straightforward than Reykjavik.

Unpractical connections, flights at odd hours, overnight layovers, prices not matching the service (when will there be some competition...).

And then inter-island transfers have a bad reputation.

One more vote for SA + SV! ;)

L'Aldéa Panoramica

112.45 € for half-board for two on their website for next summer.

The rooms look nice. Charming. [:)]

L'Aldéa Panoramica

112.45 € for half-board for two on their site for next summer. The rooms look nice. Charming.[:)]

Clearly my favorite on SA, and not just for the endless caipirinhas!! The food, made by a Cape Verdean woman, is to die for!

There’s a villa and a hotel that really stand out, but they’re not in the same price range. And they’re not super well-located for hiking...

I can totally picture your Morocco group in the villa! ![;)]

There’s a villa and a hotel that stand out, but they’re not in the same price range. And they’re not super well-located for hiking...

I can totally picture your Morocco group in the villa ![;)]

Oh sorry, the destination for our next trip (2027) has been decided: it’ll be Calabria (southern Italy 🇮🇹). [;)] The subject of many negotiations during our last shared meals

Provision of detailed GPS waypoint maps, booking accommodations, and luggage transport... We had a quote made with the details, lodging along the route, luggage transport, but we didn't follow through due to the announced rates. Still, their info was really helpful!😄

It's not cool to swipe info from locals!

Pretty much agree with you....[;)] I know it "happens," but I admit that all the work put into planning and quotes for nothing, only to have it used anyway individually—almost identically—hurts a bit. Oh well, that's the game, my poor Lucette! I totally get that budget can be tight for some, but if you're staying in fancy, expensive hotels, I don’t think you're too strapped. Especially since we can see the rates in Cape Verde, and agencies aren’t necessarily raking it in—those are just the prices. Anyway, it’s part of the job, that’s how it is!!

That’s the question we often asked ourselves in Cape Verde when seeing the prices: how do they do it?

Gas isn’t cheap (and I think it must be terrible right now), groceries are expensive. For accommodations, we treated ourselves, but you’ll struggle to find anything under 50 € (I had air conditioning as a must in my criteria). For restaurants, if you end up in the tourist circuit, you’re more likely to pay 15 € than 7 €...

Strangely, gas hasn’t gone up too much. Phew. For accommodations, I spent between 35-50 € for simple but decent local guesthouses. Of course, there are pricier and more comfortable options. And it’s true that if you insist on AC, prices go up! [:P] For food, it’s super easy to avoid the tourist circuit—especially on Santo Antão—and eat for under 10 € easily. Sure, octopus, seafood, and lobster tend to cost 15-25 €. But a good *feijoada* or *cachupa* can be had for 3-5 €! So, in short, there’s something for every budget!

And despite what Agnès says about the destination being "complicated" and therefore less visited, tourism has *really* skyrocketed in the 2-3 years before COVID and again in the last 3-4 years since.

L'Aldéa Panoramica

112.45 € for half-board for two on their website for next summer.

The rooms look nice. Charming. [:)]

yeah, charming. But it's already high-end for Cape Verde. You can find much cheaper. Anyway, in Val de Paul, it's true that it's generally quite limited and expensive. Plus, I think there's a lack of more affordable accommodations in the area.

So, are we getting a little Calabrian travel journal?

despite what Agnès says about the destination being "complicated" and therefore not much visited, tourism has veeeery sharply increased in the 2-3 years before COVID and also in the last 3-4 years since.

True. But what would it have been like if there were flights from France to São Vicente with departures from France in late morning and arrivals on-site without having to spend the night en route, and return flights of the same standard for under 500 euros including checked baggage?

After that, it’s actually better for these islands to have moderate tourist traffic. And what better way to achieve that than with limited availability?

The day when dozens of flights arrive daily from Europe will spell the end for Cape Verde.

Good evening! You mentioned cachupa for 3 or 5 euros, but during a hike, we stumbled upon a little eatery in the village of Pico da Cruz where a *very* hearty cachupa with egg cost us just 2 euros! !

I’m not specifically looking for rock-bottom prices. A good value-for-money stay with charm is more my thing. And above all, peace and quiet when my head hits the pillow... A criterion that doesn’t always seem obvious in Cape Verde, from what I’ve gathered. My budget is reasonably flexible.

In short, 113 € for two people on half-board for that kind of room works just fine for me. [:)]

I’d struggle a bit more with a 60 € taxi ride for 40 kilometers...

yeah, you're right, that's not what we dream of! We already see those cruise-ship-HLM things docking, and buses lining up one after another...

For flight prices, I think we’ve just gotten too used to low-cost fares, and actually, *those* aren’t the "normal" ones. A flight can’t cost 30 euros, even to Barcelona!! Right? Things have a price, and discounting isn’t always the best option. I think.

I’m not specifically looking for the cheapest options. A good value-for-money stay with charm is more my style. And above all, peace and quiet when my head hits the pillow... A criterion that doesn’t always seem obvious in Cape Verde, from what I’ve gathered. My budget is reasonably flexible.

In short, 113 € for two people on half-board for this kind of room works just fine for me. [:)]

I’d struggle more with a 60 € taxi ride for 40 kilometers...

So in Cape Verde, pack your earplugs!!! There’s music, drunk people, roosters, dogs, frogs, etc....!! hahahaha!!!

If over 100 € per night is okay for you, you’ll have no trouble finding options in that range. More and more places are popping up. Santo Antão used to be more backpacker/hiker territory with limited comfort and cold water, but now it’s becoming more mainstream.

You might find the transfer prices steep, but that’s just how it is. 40 km here can easily take over an hour because the roads are winding, hilly, and steep—it’s tough work for the drivers! So don’t calculate it that way. Anyway, the rates are usually official and set by the government, and while some drivers might negotiate a little, it’s not the norm here. It’s not the national sport like in other countries. Except with the Senegalese street vendors.

Good evening You mentioned cachupa for 3 or 5 euros, and well, during a hike passing through the village of Pico da Cruz, we stumbled upon a little eatery where a very hearty cachupa with egg cost us 2 euros !

Yes, yes!! You can find it even cheaper too!!... or more expensive as well! [;)]

I never pay 30 euros for flights. It's highway robbery when you consider the community (subsidies). And it also encourages the exploitation of crews.

I totally agree with you that a low price often hides something. [:)] When everything is driven down to the lowest possible cost, we end up with clothes that fall apart after one wash, crap to eat, and cupboards full of useless junk...

But between 30 and over 650 (the TAP price for my dates—and it's even more with EasyJet or Transavia), there's a huge gap... With hotel nights during the layover, it almost adds up to over 800 euros!

For example, my Lyon-Bishkek flight costs me less than 600, even though it's longer, the airline is better (Turkish), the schedule is good, and checked baggage is included...

prends les boules quiès!!!

That won’t work...[:/]

I’ll just go through the reviews and rule out any options mentioning noise... (Animals don’t bother me. I’m focusing on conversations, TV, music with bass that vibrates through your whole body...)

Alors si plus de 100 euros par nuit c'est ok pour toi, tu trouveras sans souci des offres dans cette gamme là

If I subtract 30 € for the half-board meal, it’s more like 80 € per night including breakfast.[;)]

tu auras du mal avec les prix des transferts

But they’re not mandatory, right? Don’t the collectivos run all day? If they only run in the morning, I’ll just plan hikes that end where I’m staying...

For everything else (loop hikes, viewpoints), I’ll rent a car. Might as well be free for 60 €.

I never pay 30 € for flights. It's highway robbery for the community (subsidies). And it also encourages the exploitation of crews.

I totally agree with you that a low price often hides something. [:)] If we keep pushing everything down, we end up with clothes that last one wash, crap to eat, and closets full of stuff we never use...

But between 30 € and over 650 € (the TAP price for my dates, and it's even more with EasyJet or Transavia), there's a big gap... With hotel nights during the layover, it almost adds up to over 800 €!

For example, my Lyon-Bishkek flight costs less than 600 €, even though it's longer, the airline is better (Turkish), the schedule is good, and checked baggage is included...

It's true that Cape Verde isn't cheap. And yet, prices have dropped quite a bit compared to 10-15 years ago when TAP was pretty much the only option and we paid around 800-1000 € for a ticket!!! Now there are other options, low-cost airlines, and with competition, prices are dropping... a little. But as you said, it also helps avoid mass tourism on this small archipelago... and we're happy about that! ;O)

Get some earplugs!!!

That won’t work...[:/]

I’ll rather go through the reviews and rule out any options mentioning noise... (Animals don’t bother me. I’m focusing on conversations, TV, music with bass that vibrates through your whole body...)

So if over 100 euros per night is okay for you, you’ll have no trouble finding options in that range

If I subtract 30 euros for the half-board meal, it’s more like 80 per night including breakfast.[;)]

You’ll struggle with transfer prices

But they’re not mandatory, right? Don’t the collectivos run all day? If they only run in the morning, I’ll just plan hikes that end where I’m staying...

For the rest (loop hikes, viewpoints), I’ll rent a car. Might as well be free for 60 euros.

About the noise: some places are indeed quieter than others. As soon as you leave the villages and find slightly isolated accommodations, it’s often more peaceful. But you’re never completely safe from a party or music here. That’s Cape Verde for you.

About transportation: No, of course private transfers aren’t mandatory, but they’re often really handy if you’re loaded with luggage when moving from one hotel to another, for example, or depending on where you want to go without waiting for hours. They might only be necessary on certain days, and the rest of the time, you can use shared transport. That’s why I say that overall, it’s worth renting a car. But it’s true that it’s not the same kind of freedom. Though on some roads, I’ll admit I prefer letting the locals drive—even though I’m used to mountain roads!

Otherwise, yes, there are collectivos running pretty much all day (less in the late afternoon and almost none in the evening), but it really depends on the route. Some trips are more "complicated" than others, with transfers. And often, it’s a bit counterintuitive when you’re visiting and hiking. Here’s why: collectivos come down from the mountains and up from the valleys toward the towns in the morning (for school, work, markets, shopping, ferries...) and go back up in the late morning or late afternoon. When you’re hiking, you often want to do the opposite. So it’s not always easy to find one without waiting for hours and starting your hike in the scorching heat! Depending on the area, you can arrange a private ride to the start of your hike to begin early, and then figure out the collectivos for the way back at the end of your hike. For some routes, you can also rely on the back-and-forth of collectivos that take people to and from the ferry in Porto Novo via the coastal road. But for example, going up to the highlands via the Corda road (Cova, Pico da Cruz, Lagoa, Espongeiros) is trickier. You can catch the collectivo in Porto Novo in the late morning, but outside of that, it’s more complicated.

Anyway, don’t hesitate if you need more info. Marie

Get some earplugs!!!

That won’t work...[:/]

So rule out Aldea right away—it’s in the middle of the village, and evenings can get really lively (check my travel journal again).

For the rest (hiking loop, viewpoints), you’ll need to rent a car. Since you’re already paying 60 euros, might as well be free to go where you want.

Based on what I’ve read in your travel journals, yeah, rent a car [;)] Driving in Cape Verde shouldn’t be worse than in Thailand—just clench your teeth now and then when you pass a local

But between 30 and over 650 (the TAP price for my dates, and it's even more with EasyJet or Transavia), there's a huge gap... With hotel nights during the layover, it almost reaches over 800 euros!

I was surprised when you mentioned only seeing flights with an overnight layover, whether from Paris or Lyon. I’d done the round-trip in a single day (for Praia).

Actually, I checked Skyscanner—TAP only starts their morning flights from April onward, which is when you can find same-day flights.

Something to consider if your dates are flexible 🤔.

Well, it doesn’t change much about the price, but it does affect the travel time.

I’ll rather comb through reviews and drop any options mentioning noise... (Animals don’t bother me. I’m zeroing in on conversations, TV, music with bass that vibrates through your whole body...)

No noise at Aldea Panoramica during our stay. We spent 4 nights there. Once a week, a few local musicians come to play in the evening during (or after) dinner, but it doesn’t last long (until 10 PM max). The rest of the time, it was very peaceful. You might also want to avoid days with festivals, carnivals, etc. At Quinta Cochete (Ribeira Das Patas), there are no musicians, and it’s completely quiet since there are no houses nearby. Another place I recommend for its setting and tranquility. The rooms are decent, and the bedding is comfortable. It’s right by the sea, and the road—recently paved almost all the way—ends in this large village: Tarrafal de Monte Trigo ( one of the few spots on Santo Antão where the sea is swimmable; the beach is sheltered from the wind) and the temperature is higher than the rest of the island. Just don’t confuse it with Tarrafal on Santiago, which is very touristy and packed with visitors on weekends! This hotel, Mar Tranquilidad (a beautifully restored stone house), is surrounded by greenery. It’s a peaceful haven, and the evening buffet is very reasonable for the price. Plus, they serve unlimited apéritif (punch/planter’s punch) from 6 PM on a terrace overlooking the beach—Mar Tranquilidad. https://www.martranquilidade.com/ https://www.tripadvisor.es/Hotel_Review-g482852-d1656265-Reviews-Mar_Tranquilidade-Santo_Antao.html#/media/1656265/?type=ALL_INCLUDING_RESTRICTED&albumid=101&category=101 Out of all the places we stayed in Cape Verde, only one was a bit noisy in the evening because it was close to a beachside bar (a meet-up spot for local youth). That was at Musica do Mar in Ponta do Sol. It didn’t bother us too much, though.