Converting a heavy-duty bus/coach/truck into a motorhome
FR

Translated into English.

DE DebetdimFE ·
Hey! Don't worry, we've got it all covered! We found some amazing buses and they're much closer to home!!! Like S53s with 85-seat capacity and S45s that are still running for the same price, €2000. That's awesome, we're still deep in our research and the further we progress the better it gets, really positive! So let it keep going....!!!!! All the best, , , see you soon
MR Mrkonn Regular ·
Hi everyone, new to the site — we found an S45 from 1983 for €1000 with 100,000 original km. It's an old association bus, the conversion is pretty basic (bench seats and tables) — everything needs to be redone! The registration is PL (commercial vehicle). Once it's fully converted, will we need to get it re-registered? Can we drive it without issues while we're doing the conversion? 🙂🙂
KE Kersode ·
Hi, I'm getting back in touch. As I mentioned in my last message, my project has evolved and we're now focusing on a Renault FR1. We've already looked at several of them, but before we decide, some advice on purchase price would be really helpful. Today we visited an '88 FR1 GT model in good condition with around 860,000 km on the clock, priced at €10,000 ex-tax. No double-glazing, no ABS, and while it has A/C, the refrigerant was removed because it doesn't meet current regulations. Regarding the A/C, we were told that getting it working again with compliant refrigerant would cost €3,000. Are there any other solutions besides replacing the whole system, given that it's intact? The seller also said that double-glazing isn't essential for insulation—its main benefit is preventing window condensation during passenger transport. To keep this short, do you think at this price we could find the same bus with double-glazing, A/C, and ABS? And if not, what would be a fair market price? Also, what's the maximum mileage we shouldn't exceed, assuming it's been well-maintained? Thanks, talk soon!
mon blog http:/kersode.skyblog.com
SP Sputnick Regular ·
I worked at Autocars Martin in Bourg-st-Maurice (73) and he sold FR1s at 50,000 FF (I don't know in...) They were basic FR1s with generally 700,000 km. You can always call Mr Chambas!
FR François57 Regular ·
What would you recommend if the inspection report shows 'surface corrosion'? (on my S53 framework) I've been advised to either replace some bars or apply rust preventative, but I don't know how to weld. Is it tedious to do on just a few 30cm bars?

Thanks, catch you later
SP Sputnick Regular ·
What?

Look, if you can apply rust-proofing treatment, just go with that! If you want to do it properly, use Blackson©
JS Js59 ·
So, did you contact mascotte?
MR Mrkonn Regular ·
🙂Hi everyone, we'd like to have layout plans for the s45 and s53 to get an idea of how to distribute the weight. CAN YOU DRIVE IT WHILE IT'S BEING CONVERTED???🙁🙁 Thanks again for all your valuable information.
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
Hi,

For weight distribution, you need to pay attention to a couple of things:

Since all buses and coaches have more weight at the rear, that's where you need to put the water tanks (each passenger—who will be up front—is counted as 75 kg plus 75 kg of luggage as close to them as possible. So if there are 6 passengers, that's already 900 kg of load COUNTED BY THE AUTHORITIES on the front, plus the fittings).

For water tanks, the authorities accept the following principle: Since fresh water becomes greywater, only the tank system with the largest capacity (fresh or grey) can be counted. (Example: for 600 litres of fresh water and 450 litres of greywater, only 600 litres can be counted).

For conversion ideas, check out websites like Concorde, Winnebago, Clou, etc.

Driving your bus while it's being converted—it's a mess! In fact, if the seats are missing, it no longer complies with its bus designation, and since six months of conversion can go by quickly, you won't be able to pass inspection with the authorities (definitely not, because these guys can stamp your papers with a bad security mark that could take it off the road).

PATRICK26
MR Mrkonn Regular ·
😉 Hey Patrick, thanks so much for the help—I've still got quite a few more questions. See you soon.🙂🙂
FR François57 Regular ·
- I contacted Mascotte:

I can't insure it with them because I've had my license for less than 3 years in the vehicle category I'm insuring. (I don't have my Category C license yet) and no insurance company will cover me unless I declare a main driver (Category D license since it hasn't been converted) who'll provide me with their information sheet with at least a 0.80 coefficient (that's 20% bonus).

if you've got other ideas for those 3 years... Question about rust:

do you still need to put rust inhibitor before spraying with Blaxxon? and does Blaxxon actually just provide protection? doesn't it risk creating pockets that will encourage rust? also, there are holes in the lattice bars to drain water - is it better to leave them open or not? Reply for MrKonn

to set up your coach, ask benhurd - he's got an S53 and handled it well, I'm roughly following his plan. I stopped by a friend's place this weekend, the owner installed a full bathroom unit with all the amenities packed into just over a square meter: you can shower while using the toilet and brushing your teeth. the width is exactly the width of an S53 window. the problem is it's 2.05m tall (apartment door height), so you'd need to cut into the roof, and besides I don't have the price for that setup.

For the authorities, in Moselle they told me 75kg per person, but not including luggage. plan for storage somewhere anyway - they're going to tell you +Xkg for dishes, +Xkg for this and that... but in my opinion you'll always have extra loading capacity at the back. for the tanks, they count them as completely full, and I'm not sure if they completely ignore the greywater or factor part of it in. Indeed, nothing forces you (and sometimes it won't be possible) to empty your greywater when you fill up your freshwater.

try to put the tank under the rear bench (bed), lying flat, and add baffles - a 500 kg inertia is not great if you brake

I have approval from Irisbus that lets me downgrade my S53 on the condition of not exceeding 14.5T, that's 7T on the front and 7.5T on the rear. On the spec sheet (marked in red) it shows about 4T per axle when empty, so you've got 3 tonnes per axle. You can find distribution forms on the DRIRE websites (try Moselle, it's not hard to navigate their site), but the standard document has a formatting error so you won't understand right away that it's a mass/length ratio, but anyway it's broken down by length sections: you've got a certain mass at a distance from the front axle, when you add up the masses within the wheelbase and subtract the masses on the front overhang, you get the moment on the front axle, which determines what you've got left at the rear - anyway you'll figure it out.

I think 3 tonnes per axle is manageable. Mobile internet

with Bouygues, I'm going to add an unlimited Edge plan for 10 euros (it's 128kbps minimum, I don't know if it's faster) and the phone can be connected to the PC. Energy

Fuel cell www.axane.com, made by Air Liquide. Downside: still 10,000€ per kVA, but expectations for significant price drops in the next 10 years. Other downside: need space for hydrogen bottles. So I'm torn between solar panels (solution at 900 euros per 75 or 100 watt panel that rotates and tilts with a manual handle in the cabin).

And here I'm asking all the longtime owners: what are the real power consumption rates for a generator (1 desktop PC with CRT monitor + a few lights + 1 CRT TV + 1 electric fridge)? if switching to solar mode, 75W isn't much, so how much can you store with how many panels of what capacity at what price? (+batteries, how many and weight?) especially with battery storage at night - I usually have 5 or 6h of lighting + TV or PC so roughly 500W while the panels will have charged for 6 to 8h at 75Wh/h

would you need to switch to a laptop and flat-screen TV and a 12/24V or gas fridge... Webasto

can you heat water with a Webasto, and based on what - how many liters of diesel for what size water tank? (direct heater or small water heater). I'm careful to properly insulate my pipes to avoid freezing, especially against the floor and in the walls.

That's it. thanks for your replies
MR Mrkonn Regular ·
🙂 Hi everyone, THANKS TO FRANCOIS57 and PATRICK26 for your replies. I just went to see the bus like I said before, everything inside needs to be redone.

On the registration certificate: like vasp, gross vehicle weight 14T800, total train weight 15T550, 4 seats, body: non-spec

What I wanted to know is what gross vehicle weight and total train weight mean, and what non-spec body means. It's a bus that hasn't run for more than 3 years.

ciao...
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
Hello everyone,

to help you read your vehicle registration:

VASP NON SPEC: Specifically Adapted Vehicle, NOT SPECified (in other words, a vehicle with specific adaptation not specified in the known DRIRE nomenclature - like livestock trailers, tow trucks, etc.)

I'd like to remind you that since the beginning of the year, the nomenclature has been updated with the HOME CAR specification (following my 8 months of procedures with the DRIRE of the Drôme and the Ministry of Transport - see paragraph 19 of the discussion).

TC WEIGHT: total laden weight (AND NOT PTAC - Maximum Total Authorized Weight, reserved for freight transport) TR WEIGHT: total rolling weight (the difference between TC and TR being the maximum weight of the trailer you're authorized to tow - in your case 750 kg).

If the bus hasn't been driven for 3 years, watch out for the following:

the validity of air bottles, brake seizing, lubrication condition of axle seals, bearings, steering, ball joints and gear shift nose, tension of pedal and gear shift cables if applicable, etc. (basically, having a mechanic on hand for the restart is recommended)

but I'm not a mechanic.... others might be able to give you better information than me on this forum.

good luck to you,

PATRICK26
MR Mrkonn Regular ·
Thanks for your reply. I think it's going to be very difficult to go from a non-spec vehicle to a motorhome. I think I'm going to set everything up while sticking more or less to the original plans since everything inside needs to be redone. If I'm wrong, all the better. And what about the cops and customs—are they more of a hassle or not? I would've liked a price range for air bottles for the S45 and info on where to find them.

Thanks again TO EVERYONE FOR YOUR INFORMATION.
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
Hello,

no, it's not very difficult! anyway, if you install gas (cooking, heating, etc) the home-car class is preferable because, as I've already explained, if you're going to travel with the bus and take a ferry, you risk being denied access with your non-homologated motorhome (risk to them of non-compliant installations that could endanger other passengers).

know that the hardest part is already done for your vehicle. in fact it's the reclassification from bus to VASP that's difficult, not the change of sub-class!

you just need to respect the conversion rules of 69200 (you'll find them at Veritas - I think it was gx47 who gave the contact info in a post of this discussion), and everything will be fine. most rejections are made for reasons of bodywork or chassis modifications, forgotten emergency exits, etc. but you, your vehicle has already been checked and approved for these points.

rejections are rarely for interior modifications...

for the gendarmerie, it's the same: home-car means you won't be subject to the RSE (European social regulation of transport), so no tachograph, you can drive on Sundays, etc.

and non-spec VASP, they can give you a hard time because the law doesn't provide automatic exemption for this class, so you might run into people who will fine you for lack of a disc or because you're driving during forbidden time slots (for both, that's 6 points and very very expensive fines!). after that all you can do is explain to the judge that it's a motorhome, but it's not homologated as such, but that blah blah blah... and it's a mess!

but everyone does as they please, please, please... as the song says.

as for the price of bottles, there's a big difference between replacement and re-testing. check with a mechanic. unless someone on this discussion can give you info...

PATRICK26
MR Mrkonn Regular ·
🙂Hey Patrick, and once again a big THANK YOU for your invaluable help,

I couldn't find gx's post. See you soon, Nico
DE DebetdimFE ·
Hey kalifamily, just a quick message to share some news. We found an S53 (looks just like yours) for 1,500. The guy's doing the technical inspection for us. I think he'll get it through for us, at the very least. If needed, he'll change the tires because it hasn't been driven in a year but has been moved around a lot. Starts like a dream... and it's only 40 km from us!!!! So there we go, it's awesome, ciao, talk soon!
DE DebetdimFE ·
By the way, how long does it take to get the license? We're going to try going through an organization, but what else? And I've only had my car license for less than 3 years—is that a handicap for getting the heavy truck license?

Thanks for your responses🤪🙂😉
KA Kalifamily ·
Hey debetdim, cool! So it's finally happening—the S53 coming to the yard soon for some serious work. That's awesome, really happy for you! One more truck that'll get a good second life. And just so you know, if you work at it you can get your license in a month max—all depends on your driving school's schedule. Me, if I hadn't messed up the practical test the first time, I would've done the driving exam the next day, and if everything went well it would've been 15 days total. But I messed up the practical, so had to take it again. Anyway, it all worked out—took a month total, license is in the bag! kali
http://merco.aceboard.fr/88678-444-6196-0-commence-transformation.htm
DE DebetdimFE ·
Yeah, that's cool. I thought it took at least 2–3 months, but that works. How much did you end up paying for your license? Because if it's over €1,700, we're gonna have to find someone to drive the bus for the May 1st trip—as long as there's at least one person with their license just in case, at least for the way there. Catch you!
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
Just a heads-up on your license:

Chazot driving school in Bourg-lès-Valence - heavy vehicle license for €1,100 until you pass (free on-site accommodation, can do it in 15 days - practical and road test)

Chazot has over 16,000 heavy licenses, a fleet of 10 or 12 trucks, and amazing instructors! A reference in south-east France.

I've got all my heavy licenses and FIMO - passed them all at Chazot, all first-time (including the theory), and in really short timeframes.

Their site: http://www.ffrchazot.com/

PATRICK26
DE DebetdimFE ·
Yes!! thanks so much for your info, I'm going to check the website right now, thanks again
EN Enroute ·
Hi!

I'd like to add one (or several) window(s) to my van that currently has absolutely no windows. I've heard there are taxes involved because it would become a campervan. But everyone has their own version... All information would be welcome!

Is it possible to install it yourself when you have no experience with sheet metalwork? Your experiences?

Talk soon.
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
No problem! Your vehicle won't change its classification!

Windows have never caused any tax issues....

For more info, check out the following website:

http://www.campingcar-amateur.com/

You'll find instructions on how to do the installation in the technical sections.

Happy building

PATRICK26
CA Cateludo ·
Hey, or rather good evening! So this is my first time jumping into your forum, but I've been hanging around for quite a while gathering info. Anyway, I'm picking up a lovely little Saviém E7 30-seater in the coming days😉and I'd be really happy to come here for your expert advice. And for a first question – I'm ready to "get started" – what do I tackle first, knowing it's completely "stock" with all its seats and windows still in place?! I'm guessing I'll have to rip out all the seats anyway, since I only have a truck license. If you could give me a quick rundown to guide my approach for the next few weeks, that'd be awesome, because honestly I'm not sure where to start with this beast!!! Thanks for your input, Ludo.😇
Ca y est, c'est reparti !!!
EN Enroute ·
Thanks!

I'm on my way !
CY Cyril31 ·
Hi Patrick

I'd like to buy 3 double-decker buses to fit them out inside. What steps do I need to take to get them approved and on the road? Is it possible to install an eco-friendly engine? Thanks in advance for your answers... Cyril😛
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
HEY CATELUDO!

and here's another one jumping into the adventure...

For your bus, the first thing to do is remove the seats so you can take precise measurements and validate your layout (you can always put a few back later).

Regarding your heavy vehicle license, it doesn't matter, because you won't be able to drive your bus anyway! To drive a coach you need a TCP license, and your coach without seats no longer complies with its registration (not the right number of seats listed on the registration!), so there's no legal way to drive it until your work is finished and you get inspection approval.

As for the work, you need to start with the major bodywork (sealing windows, modifying doors, etc.).

Good luck

PATRICK26
CA Cateludo ·
Thanks for your reply. What do you think of my base, the Saviem E7 30-seater? On another note, I'm not planning to modify the doors, and this model has a left-side driver's door. I'm planning to partition off the rear to create a kind of motorcycle storage and workshop space, with access via the rear door. Right in front of that partition, the bedroom with the bed positioned across the width at 2.30m, then shower, kitchen and so on all the way to the front. There you have it. Thanks again for your comments, Ludo.
Ca y est, c'est reparti !!!
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
It's a standard setup that works well for a short bus.

Make sure you have an approved emergency exit window of 40x60 cm (opening) in the bedroom and bathroom, no more than 90 cm from the ground so you can step over it. The doors must open in the direction of escape (so from the bedroom or bathroom towards the outside). You must build the partition between the cargo hold and the bedroom with square tube 40x40 mm, 2 mm thick. The structural uprights must not allow a 40 cm diameter ball to pass through. The panels must be sheet metal on the cargo hold side or 19 mm plywood.

When all that's done, we'll talk about what comes next.... (water, electrics, furniture in the passenger area, seating positions, etc).

See you soon for new adventures!

PATRICK26
SP Sputnick Regular ·
hi,

here is (finally) the copy of the letter from the Rennes prefecture (35) regarding the possibility for people holding a D license (TCP) to drive a VASP (modified coach): http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/9944/permisd1gy.jpg
SP Sputnick Regular ·
re it seems to me that now the 'technical inspection' for HGVs (and so coaches) is done in the private sector. do you have any info on this? do you know a 'welcoming' center in the Paris region? (send me a private message) does anyone know where I can find steering ball joints for an S45/53 from 1974? hey debetwin, it's great to see you ravers :) maybe on the 1st of May... patrick26 what's this all about:

driving your bus while it's being converted is a hassle! indeed, if it's missing the seats, it no longer complies with its bus designation, and six months of modifications pass quickly, so you won't be able to get it through the technical inspection (especially not, because those jerks can put a big S -safety- mark on it that gets it taken off the road).

does that also apply between technical inspections if they're too far apart? my coach waited 2 years before being officially approved as VASP... (2002)
FR François57 Regular ·
Me too, I have my S53, but:

No insurance company will cover it since I don't have a Category D license. Fleet insurance companies will cover vehicles as long as you have 3 years of driving experience with a license in that vehicle category.

That said, insurance companies like AXA asked me for a claims record (issued by your insurer, which lists any claims and bonuses, etc.). So I sent my Category B license from 1999, a claims record, the Category D license of the person who will transport the bus for me (thanks Benhurd), and their claims record. AXA replied "yes, but your friend has a claims record for a car, so I can't do anything about it, especially since you have nothing with us—we'd need some history with us." Sure, I'd be happy to move my Twingo to AXA, but that wouldn't give me more history with them.

My insurer, which is very good and inexpensive—MACIF—doesn't cover heavy vehicles. They have a subsidiary but won't cover a coach unless I have a transport company... anyway...

It's either/or: I either start a transport company and buy buses... or I don't insure my bus.

I could get it transported by the company I bought it from, but once it's here, on public roads or private land, what if something goes wrong...? And for transport to the DRIRE, etc.—is that X times 50 in daily temporary insurance...?

I'm looking for advice on this.

Anyway, for everyone else:

VASP Driving with Category D License

I doubt the letter from the Rennes prefecture would be valid with the cops—it doesn't cite the relevant road-code article(s).

Technical Inspection

Email quoted exactly as I received it from Autovision PL:

Following up on your email of January 24, 2006, I'm sending you the requested information:

Price of inspection for a TCP 96: €31; for a motor vehicle: €83.68. These rates are the same for professionals and private individuals. As for inspection frequency: TCP every 6 months, and for motor vehicles or trailers every year.

To reclassify your vehicle, before the technical inspection you must go to the DRIRE with a vehicle reclassification file and request a receipt defining the new characteristics. The vehicle definition is on your registration card under "Type." The vehicle will be presented in accordance with the characteristics defined by the DRIRE.

Next, request a SIREN number on a case-by-case basis to book an appointment online.

That said, if the inspections are spaced too far apart, it's no problem if you can show a document proving you have an appointment at the nearest DRIRE to your garage, but verify with them anyway (as long as you come back before the inspection validity date expires, and if you don't plan to drive the bus for 2 or 3 months, over 5 to 10 years you can gain an extra year). You also have a month to drive the coach after the validity date expires, so you can save €83.68 every 12 years. It adds up.

Emergency Exit Question

Is an emergency exit required in a bathroom? Benhurd has a windowless bathroom—he sealed the window and only the roof vent is usable. But it opens onto the salon, and in case of a bathtub fire he can escape either through the bedroom or out the front of the coach.

Layout Ideas

Partitions: I'm not entirely sure how to do it, but my basic idea was marine plywood 22 mm thick (shuttering boards for those unfamiliar), since I work in construction I can get large offcuts, even some new boards. Otherwise, another option: 10 mm boards assembled in pairs sandwich-style with stiffeners in the middle (maybe not needed since plywood is already glued in a staggered pattern) and between those stiffeners I'd slip in foam for thermal and acoustic insulation, especially between bedroom and salon, and between salon and cab.

Another issue: with movement, materials shift, so you have to install the partitions with clearance. I thought of a rail system, or fixing with joints, etc., but I doubt it would be easy to implement.

For the 3 doors (salon cabin, salon-bathroom, and salon-bedroom) I'm thinking of SNCF toilet doors (not the Corail ones with pivot hinges, but like TER ones)—anyway, I'm going to check with the SNCF to get toilet doors and partitions from decommissioned trains, as it's good material.

For the bathroom, there are ready-made cabins available, but is it better to build it yourself?

And that's where I'm looking for advice on all of this.

Thanks to anyone who can shed light on this.

DE DebetdimFE ·
Hey there! We've got our S53 at the end of school holidays—we'll see you anyway on May 1st. We're hoping to get our license by then from Chazot (thanks Patrick!!!!!!). There was a cancellation for the dates we needed, and if that doesn't work out we'll need a driver for the trip!! (what a mess). Plus, we're going to start an association for people like us here who have converted buses, and why not organize a gathering soon? You've got the motorcyclists, the CRS, so why not buses😉

Association: madmax? magikbus? we'll see... what do you think??!
FR François57 Regular ·
I'd really like to get involved in a tekos as soon as I have my motorhome, but my vibe would be more like cartoon-style music or disco rock—like what I saw at 2 or 3 booths (out of over 200) at the Chambley teknival in 2003.

What do you think?
KZ Kzmz ·
Hi, I'm looking for fairly large water tanks around 300–400 liters, but my searches haven't turned up anything... where should I look? Or can someone advise me? thanks
SP Sputnick Regular ·
For water tanks, we've already covered this: there are RV shops but they're expensive. You can salvage big PVC pipes and caps to put on the roof rack, or get commercial vehicle tanks from auto wreckers and set them up yourself with baffles. No more than 100L without baffles. You handle it by welding sheet metal, but that's reserved for welding pros. Indeed, it's the hardest thing to weld...
CA Cateludo ·
There's also this solution, which is easier if you live by the sea - boat-building yards are used to making custom tanks for boats. I've already tested it successfully😎
Ca y est, c'est reparti !!!
FR François57 Regular ·
Can someone respond to my request from the 25th (the long post on page 22)? I need insurance that covers people without a license when a friend with a class D license is the main driver.

Hi, and thanks in advance
SP Sputnick Regular ·
Hi François.

I managed to get insured at Mascotte even with less than 3 years!

Don't give up, call collective insurance companies but tell them as little as possible about your vehicle. The less they know, the better...

http://www.mascotte-assurances.com/ http://www.assurance-collection.com/ http://www.sada-collection.com/ http://www.assurances-therond.com/ http://www.google.fr/search?hl=fr&q=assurance+collection&btnG=Recherche+Google&meta=
KE Kersode ·
bonjour, j'ai adressé une dizaine de mail à la sncf pour avoir les coordonnées de socités qui récupèrent les matériels usagés ils sont restés snas réponses aussi si vous avez un contact je serais intéressé par ses coordonnées merci
mon blog http:/kersode.skyblog.com
DE DebetdimFE ·
bonjour, ma foi pourquoi pas: "impose ton staÏle".... tu sais que beaucoup de musique tekno emprunte des musiques de dessins animés! je pense que tu risque de trouver ton bonheur! bonne association, non?
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
Bonjour,

pour tes reservoirs, la solution pas chere est de prendre des reservoirs de gasoil de poids lourds(certains sont cloisonnés) et de les rincer avec des detergents speciaux pour le gasoil (du type de ceux qu'utilisent les reparateurs de cuves pour pouvoir souder sans se faire peter la g...).

50 euros pour un 500 litres avec les fixations (plus qu'a le fixer en soute), le col de cigne pour le remplissage, et le raccord a visser en bas (qui sert normalement pour la purge.

pas de souci de rouille car ils sont en inox (hé oui, il y a de l'eau dans le gasoil, en petite quantité mais il y en a toujours un peu, c'est pour cela qu'il y a un decanteur).

choisis en un avec un pompe gasoil immergée (a ne pas utiliser pour ton circuit d'eau), comme cela tu aura une trappe de visite!

ensuite, pour faire le plein, il te suffit d'ouvrir ta soute.

idem pour les eaux usées.

PATRICK26
CA Cateludo ·
Bonjour, Patrick, bonjour à tous. Ca y est, le chantier de débarrassage des sièges et divers accessoires inutiles à commencé aujourd'hui. Des tôles de sandwich alu/polyéthilène arrivent lundi pour attaquer le bouchage des fenêtres.😇 4suis aux z'anges !!! Bon WE à tous, Ludo.😉
Ca y est, c'est reparti !!!
DE DebetdimFE ·
salut à toi! une petite solution pour les réserves d'eau, nous on va utiliser des cuves alimentaires de 1000 l (blanches, entourées d'une grille), cà risque d'être un peu galère à rentrer si t'as des petites soutes par contre on a un avantage sur notre bus le moteur est sur le côté droit donc on a la place de les rentrer à l'arrière en cassant la marche où repose la banquette du fond, la class! voilou 😎
DE DebetdimFE ·
c'est encore moi! j'ai oubliée un petit détail, tu peux en trouver partout, c'est à dire dans des usines ou autre qui ferme etdonc s'en débarasse ou plus simplement sur les journaux d'annonces à un moindre, franchement, bonne recherche!
VI Virginnie ·
Je suis a la recherche d un car maxi 10 metres de long qui ne consomme pas beaucoup, qui serait facile a hommologuer et pas tres cher d achat et d entretien....si vous pouviez me conseiller sur les modeles a chercher et a eviter aussi....j avais vu un magirus deutz r80 mais apparement ca consomme 30l/100kms et la je suis sur un iveco par heuliez un h80 qui ne consomme que 18l/100 mais cest un moteur fiat de seuleument 40000kms la carrosserie 380000kms....si vous pouviez me donner vos infos sue ces deux vehicules aussi ce serait sympas...si vous avez des plans aussi n hesitez pas merci a tous...........
virg.
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
attention debetdim!

ces cuves ne sont pas cloisonnées!

ton vehicule ne pourra pas etre recu aux mines!

les reservoirs doivent etres cloisonnes par segments de 100 litres maxi(brise-flots)

PATRICK26
PA Patrick26 Veteran ·
SALUT CATELUDO

pourquoi des toles alu sandwich? comment compte tu les mettre en place?(soudure, en lieu et place des carreaux, etc)

attention a la dilatation! ce produit que nous utilisons enormement dans les stands a un gros coefficient de dilatation, et ne peut etre compatible avec un montage en lieu et place des carreaux ou un montage collé et riveté sur une carroserie en tole. le dibond ou l'alucobond (le panneau sandwich) a un coeff de dilatation superieur a 1.25, c'est a dire que si la temperature varie de 40 degres, une plaque de 1 metre mesurée a 0 degré, mesurera 1m et 2 milimetre et demi a 40 degré. ce qui veut dire que si tu remplace une vitre de 2m de long, il faut que ton joint de carreau ou ta colle et tes rivets acceptent un jeu de 5 mm!

impossible!

il faut prendre de la tole et la renforcer par des armatures si tu veux la mettre dans les joints, ou souder des traverses dans les baies et venir raporter la tole par l'exterieur si tu veut souder.

si tu veux en discuter un peu plus, tel moi au n° du troisieme post de cet espace de discution.

PATRICK26
CH Christian06 Veteran ·
Bonjour Patrick

d'après ce site: http://www.alucobond.com/french/produkte/alucobond-spezifik.htm (ALCAN)

L'alucobond à une dilatation de 2.4 mm/m et par 100°c de delta T, donc pour un delta de 40 °C, cela fait seulement 0.4*2.4= 0.96 soit 1 mm pour une tôle de 1 m C'est sûr que sur la diagonale du panneau il faut compter 1.4 mm d'allongement.

Ce qui m'inquiéterait le plus dans l'application de ce matériau pour la tolerie des fenêtres d'un bus, serait le problème de "bilame"; en effet, la température extérieure et intérieure du bus ne sera pas la même, du moins je l'espère, et donc les 2 tôles sandwich séparées par 3, 4 ou 6 mm suivant le modèle choisi ne vont pas se dilater de la même longueur et vont donc provoquer une déformation vers l'intérieur en hiver et l'extérieur en été; quoiqu'un bus à géométrie variable, ça peut être sympa 😉
CHRISTIAN

"Ne pas rire, ce n'est pas sérieux"

Similar discussions

You might also like