Ecuador itinerary with a 16-month-old baby
FR

Translated into English.

CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there, Sorry I didn’t read your itinerary carefully enough. For me, 3 days in Quito is more than enough.
gerard
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hi Guillermo,

In Quito, you’ve got plenty to do if you have time ;) For example, you can visit the Guayasamín Museum, the La Floresta neighborhood, the changing of the guard (Monday at 11 AM), or even the cable car.

To reach the northern entrance of Cotopaxi, you’ll likely need to take a taxi from Machachi. When you book your accommodation, they’ll explain everything. Plan for a half-day of travel from Papallacta to be on the safe side. Leave in the late morning to enjoy the scenery—you’ll be surrounded by volcanoes!

From the northern entrance, you can easily get back to the Pan-American Highway, take a bus to Latacunga, and from there head to Quilotoa Lagoon (direct bus or bus to Zumbahua and a shared taxi). From Quilotoa, it’s easy to return to Latacunga and take a bus to Baños. It’s still a long day ahead, so an overnight stay in the area might be worth it. By taxi, it’s obviously faster, but make sure to negotiate the price ;)

On Sunday, you’re talking about the Chimborazo volcano, right? From Baños to Salinas, you’ll need to take a bus to Ambato and then another to Guaranda. The last part is by shared taxi. Allow about 4 hours total—it’s best to leave around noon to enjoy the landscapes.

Of course, if you can, spend 2 days in the area to avoid rushing and feeling like you’re spending your whole trip in transit. Also, from Salinas de Guaranda, plan for almost a full day to reach Cuenca.

Between Cuenca and Guayaquil, consider stopping at Cajas Park and the Churute Mangrove to break up the drive. Plus, near the mangrove, there are cocoa farms—always a treat for foodies :P

Yes, I live in Quito and travel often in every region. Happy to help you enjoy my adopted country!!! ;)

Best, Léon
SA Sandraquito Regular ·
Hi Sophie, If you need accommodation in Quito, I offer furnished apartments with baby cleaning services to VF. Airport transportation is also included. Sandra
sandraquito
SA Sandraquito Regular ·
Hi Guillermo, If you need anything in Quito, I offer furnished apartments for VF members with baby cleaning service. Airport transportation included. Best regards, Sandra
sandraquito
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
That’s sweet, but I’ve already booked a hotel in Quito, so I ended up reserving 3 nights at Hacienda La Cienaga for Cotopaxi ;)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
SA Sandraquito Regular ·
Too bad for me. But La Cienega is a lovely hacienda! I have great memories there. Best, Sandra
sandraquito
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
What are the must-do day trips from Puerto Ayora or Villamil that you'd recommend, both with and without kids?
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
SA Sandraquito Regular ·
Hi Guillermo,

I don’t know this region very well, but I think Villamil is a good option with kids. Sandra
sandraquito
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Here we are!

I’ll try to post updates throughout the trip.

Even though we took a 20-hour flight with two layovers, the Lufthansa flight was great! I highly recommend the bassinet!

We stayed at Hotel Portal del Cantuña. The location is top-notch, they provided a baby crib at no extra cost, breakfast was amazing, and the common areas are really nice (big lounge, etc.). The only small downside was that we had a windowless room, but it wasn’t too bad since there were no neighbors on either side with a baby. ^^ We arrived Friday evening, and on Saturday, we explored the city with a visit to the Convento San Francisco and the museum. Then we continued to the city museum before sharing a meal on Calle Flores with baby Octave (I can’t remember the name of the restaurant—Dios something, really nice). In the afternoon, a quick nap before heading to the theater, strolling through the center (and searching for diapers and other baby supplies—easy to find at pharmacies or supermarkets in the city center! ^^). In the evening, we went to La Ronda. It was really nice, but we’d advise against the restaurants—total tourist traps! (Maybe except for the pizzeria).

On Sunday, we made it to the cathedral, then walked down via Caldas to Plaza San Blas and Parque Alameda, where Octave could run around. The observatory was closed, contrary to what the *Guide du Routard* said... We checked out the two parks below El Mariscal. Super lively, with playgrounds for kids! A great morning! Lunch at *La Casa de Mi Abuela* before heading to Parque La Carolina, where we visited the botanical garden and the vivarium (watch out for the exhibition—I misheard, but at the end, they bring out a boa and walk it in front of everyone... ^^). Be careful on Sunday evenings—almost all restaurants were closed or closed very early... We had to settle for a bit of a sketchy plan.

On Monday, we went to Papallacta. Overall, it was nice, but honestly, not the best time of year. In July, it was around 10°C with wind—we froze our butts off outside the baths and were worried baby might get an ear infection. Still, we had a great family moment, and Octave loved the baths! We were surprised by the restaurant—prices and quality were really reasonable (and they even made kid-friendly plates with real veggies! ! ! ).

Tuesday morning, we visited *La Compañía*. We were disappointed that all the churches ban photos, with or without flash... Then we headed to the *Casa de Guayasamín*! The *Capilla Guayasamín* was an amazing discovery! A bit tricky with a baby who got bored, so one of us had to focus on him while the other enjoyed the visit. Lunch in El Mariscal before heading back and leaving for Cotopaxi.

Generally speaking, in our opinion, Quito could easily be done with a stroller. That said, we don’t regret our hiking baby carrier at all—it was great for exploring the city! Baby could nap in it, and it let us discover Quito. Even though mornings and evenings were chilly, July was really pleasant—we had sunshine all day and wore T-shirts. ^^ Small downside: a German couple had their bag stolen right outside a taxi in our hotel’s courtyard (even though it’s right next to Plaza San Francisco)... So be careful. Oh, and lots of construction for the metro (supposedly until 2020)... Too bad. ^^

We arrived at *Hacienda La Ciénaga* this Tuesday! I don’t regret this little splurge at all—the hacienda is gorgeous, the room too (with a fireplace and wood fire lit). With a baby, there’s plenty to do around here (see the horses, kids’ games, walks in the park, etc.). We’re right next to *Control Caspi*. The bad surprise (maybe we just had bad luck) was the wind (easily 50 knots, no exaggeration), the fog, and the cold (8°C but felt more like 2°C) by the time we reached the first refuge. Bottom line: baby freaked out, so he stayed in the car with my wife. I went with the guide, walked 15 meters, and gave up. We couldn’t see anything, and it wasn’t pleasant at all (even though I’ve hiked in Aconcagua Park in the snow... but the wind here was unbearable). So we ended up at *Laguna Limpupungo*, which was pretty nice once the view cleared up a bit for some photos of Cotopaxi. Especially with a baby, make sure to check the weather and maybe talk to the guide to adjust the park visit (instead of wasting 2 hours going up and down for nothing like we did...).

Anyway, tomorrow we’re off to the market in Salcedo (I think?) and then Quilotoa...

To be continued...
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hello,

The name of the restaurant you're looking for in Quito should be "Dios No Muere." It’s really nice.

I hope you enjoy your visit to Saquisilí and Quilotoa. Looks like a great day ahead!

Best,

Léon
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Totally, Leon!

Update:

Thursday morning we set off around 8:30 AM towards Saquisilí! Honestly, we weren’t disappointed, and the little one loved the livestock market. After that, we headed back into town for the veggie section and all, where we got to taste some local specialties (baby loved the fried corn cakes stuffed with queso ^^). I’d recommend leaving a bit earlier if possible—there were already quite a few animals sold, even though it was really big!

Quilotoa was tough—lots of wind (and dust with contact lenses is a TERRIBLE combo ^^), and we definitely felt the altitude. The climb back up with the baby on my back and the altitude—I felt it. Honestly, if I’d known, I would’ve given my wife $10 USD and the baby, and they could’ve happily ridden back up on a mule while I’d have been much lighter on foot ^^ There’s the option to eat on-site at community-run restaurants. Prices are more than reasonable. You can also sleep there, especially if you want to hike the ridge trail, but not a great idea with a baby (:'()

The next day, mom went horseback riding before our transfer to Baños. Baños was exactly what we’d imagined (a bit like San Gil in Colombia). We weren’t disappointed by the choice and quality of restaurants when we arrived. We visited the church, took a low-key stroll around town, and had a great family moment with a break at Arté Café—totally worth it!

The next day, we biked down to Río Verde. Mom and baby met up with me for lunch and to visit Pailón del Diablo. For the descent… honestly, we made the right call not bringing the baby. Aside from the rare bike path detours (which cars and tourist buses still use for viewpoints… ugh!), it’s all on the road with trucks and buses—pretty dangerous if the baby throws you off balance… With a baby and taking your time, it easily takes a full day if you also want to do the monkey bridges on the other side of Pailón. But to get behind the waterfall? Impossible with a baby—my wife stayed with him at the terraces before tackling the 75 cm-high path… ^^

The next day, we opted to rent a taxi for a tour near La Casa del Árbol… yeah, it’s touristy, but there are some photos to take, and if you’re lucky, you might spot hummingbirds. For kids a little older than ours, it’s a fun family moment… we didn’t do it due to time, but I think walking back down via the marked trail could make a nice little hike :) We then took the 4 PM bus, "direct" to Cuenca. Get a seat for the baby (half price)—it honestly saved our lives since the bus was packed and he had his own space.

I’ll skip over our arrival in Cuenca and the terrible hotel experience we had…

Monday, we visited the Pumapungo Museum at the bottom of Calle Larga. On the way, we strolled under Calle Larga along the Tomebamba River and grabbed some delicious Argentine-style baked empanadas (what a change from Ecuadorian fried ones!!!!). The little one loved the museum, and so did we!

The rest of the day was spent in the city—Parque Calderón is great for letting our little one run around!

The next day, we visited Ingapirca by hiring a driver. It was a nice family moment, but don’t expect a mind-blowing site (makes sense given the history of the Incas in Ecuador). The short hike after the site offers some beautiful views and lets you spot cows and hummingbirds!

The following day, we wandered the streets, looking for gifts and hats. We left that day for Cajas and the Toreadora Lagoon. The loop is really nice. Count on 90 minutes with a baby on your back, and bring warm clothes—we were nearly at 4,000m, and it was around 2/3°C. You can eat on-site with a good price-quality ratio. We then headed to Guayaquil, and the view was breathtaking!

Tomorrow, we leave for the Galápagos! !
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
DO Domika74 Regular ·
THANKS for the story!! I’d missed your live posts about your trip due to lack of time—I hope to read the rest of your itinerary with the Galapagos soon! A huge THANKS for sharing, and I hope you got home thrilled with the trip!!! 😎
Love, Live, Travel...
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi there. Thanks for this story. Which bus company did you take for the direct Baños–Cuenca route? I need to get to Cuenca to catch another direct bus to Chiclayo in Peru. Thanks for your reply!
gerard
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi. I messaged the wrong person. I’ll ask again: Which bus company did you take for the direct Baños–Cuenca route? Thanks for your reply.
gerard
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Hi Cassius!

I don’t remember, but there’s only one airline that offers this route direct.
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
A little feedback from the Galapagos.

We arrived on Saturday at noon in Puerto Ayora.

Bad surprise with the "guest room"; no baby bed and no childcare, even though we had specifically chosen this place for its features.... Well, since we had booked the same place for our return from Isabela, we were upgraded to a suite.

We enjoyed Saturday afternoon strolling around the port and visiting the Darwin Reserve. No issues with the baby—he was absolutely amazed by all the birds and iguanas!

The next day, we rented two bikes and took a taxi that dropped us off at Los Gemelos. A short tour of Los Gemelos, then down to the El Chato Reserve. I found the reserve wasn’t well signposted at all; when you arrive from Los Gemelos, in Santa María, you really need to take a right at "Patita de Dedo," continue about 800m past the village exit, and it’s on the left. Then just go downhill—watch out for tortoises on the road! On the other hand, the way back is uphill! (Luckily, an American couple we’d already met at a restaurant the night before picked us up in their pickup truck and drove us back to Santa María.) We continued to Los Túneles, then had a quick meal at the corner restaurant (Bellavista?). Finally, we headed back down to Puerto Ayora. With a child, plan a full day for this excursion!

Monday: a little walk around the port, and it was really great with all the blue-footed boobies "hunting" in dives! Departure for Isabela at 3 PM. Honestly, it’s a bit chaotic at the port—bring something to keep the baby busy (snacks, a comfort item, etc.). The trip was smooth; the baby loved the sound of the waves (luckily, no rough seas).

We stayed at Manani Ecolodge. If you go there, don’t take a taxi—it’s really close to the port!

A little evening walk to Concha de Perla. It’s a really nice spot—I went back every morning at low tide around 7:30 AM (no crowds!). Really great; I even saw a shark resting on the bottom! (But I was alone and there early—later, it’s probably harder to spot.)

Tuesday morning, we enjoyed a walk on Villamil Beach with the baby. He loved the waves. Then we booked a tour to Los Tintoreras. The afternoon might not have been the best time, but honestly, no regrets—the walk was beautiful, and the guide was great! My wife even went snorkeling (you’ve got to be brave to jump into 19°C water!). When she saw the penguins, rays, and turtles around us, it was amazing! A truly romantic moment—an Italian couple watched our baby since they weren’t diving! (Thanks to them!)

Wednesday, I went alone to Los Túneles! Honestly, it was magical: swimming with sharks, turtles, seeing seahorses, and fish.

We really loved Isabela—much calmer than Puerto Ayora. With a baby, we could see sea lions, splash in the sea, and go for walks without hesitation. We would’ve loved to stay an extra day!

Thursday: back to Santa Cruz. The return trip was really complicated because of the weather.

We had blocked off Friday and Saturday in case we wanted to do an excursion to Seymour. Honestly, it seemed complicated, especially since we didn’t want to wake up at 6 AM with the baby and all the logistics that entails.

In the end, we didn’t regret it. On Friday, we spent the whole day at Tortuga Bay (plan the entire day with a baby). On Saturday, we relaxed at the port before heading to Las Grietas and taking the little path that offers a beautiful panoramic view of the bay.

Back to Guayaquil on Sunday; a little walk in Las Peñas (it reminded us of Valparaíso—*nostalgia*), and then back to France on Monday.

With a baby, there weren’t any major constraints as long as you adapt your pace to theirs. Ours had no issues with jet lag. Food-wise, no problems with fruits and compotes. For milk, we ended up using cow’s milk. But no salty dishes at all. For us, no problem since Octave eats everything (which he did with us), but that’s not necessarily the case for all babies.

An amazing family trip! :)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
LÉ LéonEquateur Veteran ·
Hello. I contacted the wrong person. I’ll ask again: Which bus company did you take for the direct Baños–Cuenca route? Thanks for your reply.

Hi Cassius,

The bus company that offers direct routes from Baños to Cuenca is Trans Amazonas. There are 3 departures per day: 8:45 AM, 4:00 PM, and 10:00 PM.

Best,

Léon
CA Cassius Veteran ·
Hi Leon

Thanks for the info, and especially the schedules. I need to be in Cuenca on October 9th.
gerard
SP Spiidy ·
Hi there,

I see it’s been a little while since you left! ;-)

How did it go with your baby at high altitude?

We’re also planning to head to Ecuador this summer with a 15-month-old.

Thanks! !
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
Hi there,

No difficulties after that, if I remember correctly we didn’t go above 4,000 meters; the highest point was Quilotoa Lagoon.
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
SP Spiidy ·
Okay, great, thanks for the info.

Did you still proceed in stages? Gradual altitude steps?

Do you think arriving directly in Quito at 2,800 m wouldn’t be an issue?

Thanks
KO Koinkoin90 Regular ·
We arrived in Quito and spent two days there before heading down to stay at Hacienda La Cienaga near Latacunga (2,900m), from where we explored the area during the day. Honestly, I have really great memories—no difficulties with my son (though I’m a doctor, so I worry less abroad... I admit it) :)

Traveling with a child under 30 months is pretty easy with a good baby carrier, especially with a bit of adaptation (we had the latest Osprey model, with the baby sitting like on a horse with his dad—we kept getting asked where we found our baby carrier!)
"Sie ist mir ewig, ist mir immer Erb und Eigen, Ein und All" -Siegfried-
PO Posepose Regular ·
Hello, Just a heads-up—Ecuador can get chilly at altitude (Quito’s at 2,500/2,700m), so pack some warm clothes too. Best, JPBRIERE
La vie ne vaut rien mais rien ne vaut la vie

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