Getting around in the Dominican Republic: is renting a car possible or too risky?
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
PR
hi there,

I’m heading to the Dominican Republic (Punta Cana) at the end of October for 10 days at an all-inclusive hotel with my wife and kids (ages 8 and 10). Since I’m not a fan of spending entire days at the hotel, I was wondering what the best way(s) to explore the area might be.

Last year, I went to Mexico and rented a car, so I initially thought about doing the same here—but this time, I’d get full-coverage insurance, which I didn’t do in Mexico. After checking a few forums and reviews, though, I’m really second-guessing it because some posts make it sound completely crazy to drive there.

So, I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been there recently and rented a car, as well as the different ways to get around while you’re there.

Thanks everyone! !
EL ElviajeroPar Globetrotter ·
Hello,

What do you want to visit in the Punta Cana area?

A bit of history: In the middle of the last century, the Punta Cana region was just a vast swamp, but with the most beautiful beaches in the country.

Then Club Med built an all-inclusive hotel. Despite poor air service (neither Punta Cana Airport nor the El Coral highway existed), it was a success. Note, by the way, that the El Coral highway, 70 km long (Punta Cana - La Romana), is the only one in the country that allows a maximum speed of 100 km/h, while everywhere else it’s 80 km/h max (and thankfully so, given Dominican driving habits!)

Given Club Med’s success, hotels sprang up like mushrooms. So they built an airport to supply all these hotels, dedicated to international tourism.

Punta Cana isn’t a city. It’s a 40 km stretch of hotels, one after another, with the occasional commercial area for deep-pocketed tourists.

This area has one particular feature: excellent public transport to allow locals to come work there and return home, mainly to Verón and Higuey.

Indeed, only a minority of wealthy Dominicans (yes, they exist!) or wealthy expats live in the Punta Cana area.

So there’s NOTHING authentically Dominican in this international tourism zone—it’s just a gigantic tourist factory.

But it’s perfect for those who want to relax on stunning beaches, enjoy the facilities, entertainment, and good all-inclusive hotels, plus 1 or 2 excursions for deep pockets.

Across the country, *guaguas* (public minibuses) operate from just before sunrise until just after sunset. But in this area (as well as in the capital and its suburbs), some *guagua* lines continue until around 10 PM.

You’ll find the *guagua* routes for the Punta Cana region on a map here:

https://www.puntacanatravelblog.com/general-information-faq/public-transport-in-punta-cana/

*Guaguas* offer an immersion in Dominican life (something NO excursion will give you) and cost next to nothing.

Driving in the Dominican Republic is perfectly described in this French TV report:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WDuF-dBTDaWtAFT3hNSinQx9Mok1vqEc/view

A forum member here already commented on this report, saying the journalists wanted to sensationalize it. But that’s not the case. The report simply confirms what I’ve observed during my frequent stays here (several times a year for 25 years).

Driving in this country can only be compared to Thailand, as these two countries compete for first place on the podium of the world’s deadliest roads, according to official statistics published by the World Health Organization (WHO).

You need to be aware that in case of a personal injury accident (it’s enough for your opponent to claim they’re hurt, here or there), incarceration is the rule. And if there’s one thing the DR and France have in common, it’s the slowness of the justice system. In fact, as a result of French colonial history, the basis of Dominican law—that is, the civil code—is nothing other than the Napoleonic Civil Code, translated word for word.

If it’s only a material accident, and you or your opponent have subscribed to the "casa del conductor" option in their insurance (there are only 2 in the whole country: one in Santo Domingo and the other in Santiago), the consequences will be "softer": the "casa del conductor" (mentioned in the French TV report) is a gilded prison, but it’s still a prison!

Finally, a visit to the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website (diplomatie.gouv.fr), in the "travel advice" section for the DR, will complete your information.

But once well-informed, everyone does as they please.

Happy holidays
PR Provenza24 ·
Hello,

Thanks for the reply. Since we're going as a family, we need something for everyone.

I have 9 days there, so I’d like to keep everyone happy with: - 3-4 activities for the kids (I think these are the "wallet-on-legs" activities you mentioned 🙂 like Saona, Montana Redonda / Los Haitises, Ojos Indígenas, etc., on organized excursions). - Visiting more authentic places and heading to Higüey and the Colonial Zone in Santo Domingo, for example (preferably by taxi, guaguas, or Uber). - In the middle of all that, spending 2-3 rest days at the resort, without ruling out a nearby outing—maybe a market, a beach to see, or a fishing village (taxi, guaguas, or Uber).

I wanted to rent a car to head up to Las Terrenas and Samaná to be independent, but we’re dropping that idea. A friend who goes there 2-3 times a year told me everything people say about driving is false and that it’s not a problem, but I don’t want the stress of dealing with that...

On the other hand, I looked into guaguas—they stop at the intersection of Francia and España roads, which is apparently a 20-minute walk from the hotel, and that’s with the kids to consider...

Do you have any suggestions? Any ideas for outings or organization are welcome!

Best regards,
EL ElviajeroPar Globetrotter ·
- 3-4 activities for kids

In almost all all-inclusive hotels, there’s a kids’ club. You can leave your children with the activity leader. If you need to be away during lunch, with a decent tip, the leader will look after your kids. They’ll even be happy to do it, given the low Dominican salaries.

I think these are the "wallet-on-legs" activities you mentioned 🙂 like Saona, Montaña Redonda / Los Haitises, Indigenous Eyes..., organized excursions).

That’s nothing like activities for kids! For example, Saona involves: Leaving from Bayahibe, usually by catamaran. On the way there or back, a stop in the middle of the sea—but in shallow water—so you can sip a drink while watching starfish (which are dying from this intensive tourism). On Saona Island, a beachside meal with lobster and unlimited alcohol. That’s it. Watch out for sunburn—it’s brutal on the water. I’ve seen more than one person come back badly burned.

- Visiting more authentic places and going to Higüey and the Colonial Zone in Santo Domingo, for example (preferably by taxi, guaguas, or Uber).

Higüey, from Bávaro (I assume that’s where you’re staying since you mentioned Avenida España and Francia), is very easy to reach by guagua. It’s not very big. The only attraction is the Basilica La Altagracia, but it’s quite unique. The main draw is immersing yourself in local life. You’ll find plenty of places to eat and drink.

The Colonial Zone in Santo Domingo: Take the guagua to the Cruce de Friusa terminal, then catch the first APTPRA bus of the day at 5:30 AM. You’ll get off at Parque Enriquillo (the last stop before the terminal). Actually, it doesn’t stop at Parque Enriquillo in that direction but very close by. From there, you’re just a short walk from the Colonial Zone. On the way back, take the same APTPRA bus to Bávaro from Parque Enriquillo (where APTPRA is written in huge letters on the bus station). On the return trip, it makes request stops in front of almost all the all-inclusive hotels in Bávaro, including the corner of Francia/España if that’s where you want to get off. Schedules: You can easily find them by searching APTRA on Google.

- In the middle of all that, spending 2-3 rest days at the resort, maybe with a nearby outing to a market, beach, or fishing village (by taxi, guaguas, or Uber).

One beautiful Punta Cana beach looks just like another. But the challenge is finding access to the beach since you can’t walk through the all-inclusive resorts. Fishing villages: None in the Punta Cana area—it’s just one giant tourist factory.

I wanted to rent a car to go up to Las Terrenas, Samaná, to be independent, but we’ll drop the idea.

That’s a *lot* of driving! A same-day round trip is out of the question. Remember, the only exception is the El Coral highway, which is 70 km long and allows a maximum speed of 100 km/h. Everywhere else, the speed limit is 80 km/h.

Best regards,
FR Franbb Regular ·
Hello,

To partly echo what’s already been mentioned:

- Driving in the DR is doable, but *very* stressful. You can expect anything and everything, anywhere, anytime: overtaking on the right is allowed, roundabouts have no clear right-of-way rules, cows on the highway, potholes—*huge* ones, like the chickens could live in them—vehicles going the wrong way, and of course, all sorts of unmarked and unsafe carts and trailers. Driving at night multiplies the dangers. Also, if anything goes wrong, even if it’s not your fault, you—assumed to be the wealthy foreigner—will likely be the one blamed. This is all from personal experience or friends’ stories, and we lived in Punta Cana for a total of 3 years. In short, for 9 days, it’s up to you, but in my opinion, don’t ruin your vacation time for such a short trip. Good for your friend if they’re a driving virtuoso who’s never had a hiccup, but having lived it daily—and in quite a few other countries—I can say the *real* danger in the DR is the roads.

That said, from Punta Cana, there are very regular buses—several per day—to Santo Domingo, the capital (departures from Friusa, Cruz de Veron, or the airport; check with your hotel). In my opinion, this is the most worthwhile place to visit in your area given your stay length. It’ll give you a completely different perspective on the country. The bus ride takes about 2-3 hours, and you’ll find interesting sights in the Zona Colonial, which will be a nice change from the somewhat artificial vibe of Punta Cana (the beaches aren’t artificial and are truly beautiful, even if you won’t find solitude there, but honestly, there’s not much else to see in the area).

For Saona Island, the only thing left that’s authentic are the sand flies, and they bite *hard* as soon as you settle on a beach. The natural scenery is admittedly stunning, but you’ll never get to enjoy it peacefully: even if you opt for a less crowded transport option—more expensive, of course—you’ll still end up surrounded by dozens of noisy, packed neighboring boats. It’s sad to say, but it’s really not worth it—neither the hassle nor the cost. PS: You can take the catamaran option, which is pricier but less polluting; the catch is it takes *way* longer, and ultimately, you’ll end up in the same spot as everyone else, with just as many people and just as much noise.

If you get the chance, I’d recommend the Miches region instead—direct route along the coast from Punta Cana, about 100 km west. There’s still some authenticity left there. You’ll find pretty hills, coffee and cocoa plantations, and the nearby (about 40 km past Miches) beautiful Los Haitises National Park (but don’t rush to the Taíno cave-islets that every tour offers: they’re not bad, but they’re no Lascaux, and unfortunately, they’re overcrowded; maybe opt for a forest and/or mangrove walk instead, which are less packed, with a somewhat professional guide to explain what you’re seeing). Just before Miches on the way from Punta Cana, there’s also the gorgeous Playa Esmeralda, still not too spoiled by resorts (at least that was the case in 2024). Along the way, instead of Montaña Redonda (the big swing at the top of a hill with a decent view, but still a bit overrated), try Playa Limón nearby. All of this is doable as a day trip (check with your accommodation), or you could hire a taxi for the day to take you there—just negotiate the price well. There aren’t a ton of facilities, but this region has real charm.

If you want to see a fishing village near Punta Cana, there’s one between the airport and Bávaro, at Cabeza de Toro: from the "highway," heading toward Bávaro, turn right where there’s a pretty ugly dinosaur statue (?! don’t ask me what it’s doing there...). Follow the small road, pass the entrance to the Catalonia resort, and keep going until you reach the sea, about 4-5 km from the highway. There’s a small village, still with some local houses, a few fishermen, and some *colmados* (local grocery-bar hubs, the center of social life in the country). It’s not 100% authentic, but for the region, it’s still pretty Dominican. That said, you’ll have seen it all in 30 minutes...

As for going to Las Terrenas/Samaná, the issue is there’s no direct road from Punta Cana: if you follow the north coast, the road stops at the eastern entrance of Los Haitises National Park. Samaná is on the other side and can’t be reached by car. Getting there by road means taking the southern "highway" almost all the way to Santo Domingo, then heading up a very long road to the peninsula. It’s a huge detour, and a round trip isn’t doable in a day. One alternative is to drive to Sabana de la Mar, past Miches, and take a (somewhat unreliable) ferry to the city of Samaná from there, but the city itself isn’t worth much. You’d still need to take public transport to get to, say, Las Terrenas... Not doable in a day.

Leaving the beach scene isn’t easy in Punta Cana, but the DR is a country that’s *really* worth exploring beyond the usual tours. With 9 days, tricky transportation, and being at the far eastern end of the country, you obviously can’t see everything. Still, I hope you get to enjoy it!
PR Provenza24 ·
Hi,

After reading all the alarming posts on the forums, I eventually gave up on the idea of renting a car altogether (plus, a simulation showed it would cost around 1000 € with, say, two full tanks of gas and full insurance). Even though I might regret it once we're there with the kids, we'll see how it goes.

We’ll try to alternate between organized excursions and rest days with short outings by taxi/guaguas if we feel like it. That’ll give us 4-5 nice excursions and 4-5 rest days—I think it’s a good compromise with the kids.

I’ll admit that, being a bit more anxious when traveling with the kids, the posts by ElviajeroPar really put me off. Last year, I drove for 10 days in Mexico—even though it’s probably more relaxed there, I saw potholes, big speed bumps, families of three on a single motorcycle without helmets, and got pulled over by the police twice for minor shakedowns. But none of that really bothered me or stressed me out.

Maybe it’s all about perspective and how adaptable each of us is. Even just in France, driving styles can vary a lot between regions. I’ve heard plenty of people from other parts of the country say they’re scared to drive in downtown Nice, whereas I do it every day without any issues. Not that it’s the same as the DR, but just out of curiosity—ElviajeroPar, how do you see yourself among French drivers? Is driving in Paris or another big French city something you find easy, or does it make you nervous?

Anyway, I still hope we’ll have a great trip. What you’ve described about the DR isn’t exactly motivating, I’ll admit! :)
EL ElviajeroPar Globetrotter ·
No relation to the DR again, but just out of curiosity, ElviajeroPar, how would you rate yourself among French drivers? Is driving in Paris or a big French city something easy for you, or does it scare you?

Hi there,

I can put your mind at ease: I live in the immediate suburbs of Paris. So, driving through the city isn’t an issue for me if it’s just to cross it.

However, if it’s about parking there, that’s a whole different story. In that case, I only go to Paris using public transport (metro, RER, or bus—all available very close to my home) because parking in Paris has become nearly impossible, and the travel time is infinitely longer (except late at night) than with public transport.

I’ll add that even though I’m retired now, I spent a large part of my career visiting clients all over the Paris region (including Paris itself), obviously driving. But back then, you could still park in Paris without too many problems, and there weren’t as many traffic jams as there are now.

So, I think I can say I’m an experienced driver. In fact, I’ve had a maximum no-claims bonus (50%) for countless years, plus an additional safe driver discount from my insurance company.

But driving in the DR is a completely different story. There *is* a highway code, but the one that’s actually applied is "move over so I can pass."

Worse: if you’re on the Las Américas highway on a Sunday late afternoon, it’s a contest of drunk drivers heading back to Santo Domingo after spending the day at Boca Chica beach (the closest to the capital) or the beaches of Guayacanes or Juan Dolio.

If this country has the deadliest roads in the world, it’s not without reason! And the hassle with the police and justice after an accident is also very annoying, especially if it involves bodily harm. In that case, it’s simply dramatic—pre-trial detention before seeing a judge is the rule.

Anyway, I still hope to have a good trip, because what you’ve described down there isn’t exactly motivating either, I must admit :)

Your interpretation is off. I’m a regular in the DR, a country where I spend nearly 20% of my time, split into 4 stays per year. So, I can say the DR is a very enjoyable country for many reasons. But you can’t live there the same way you do in France.

The huge issue in the DR is driving. But getting around by public transport is infinitely easier than in France. For anything other than long intercity trips, you don’t even need schedules. And even for long intercity routes (comfortable coaches), you often don’t need schedules! For example, Santo Domingo–Puerto Plata has departures every half hour. Santo Domingo–Higüey is every 20 or 30 minutes... The public transport network is basically the country’s road map, with frequent service from sunrise to sunset.

Finally, just to let you know, I landed at Paris Orly last week after a stay in the Puerto Plata area (Atlantic coast). My flight departed from Santo Domingo (Caribbean coast). I, of course, made the overland trip using Caribe Tours coaches and two *guaguas* (shared minibuses)—one to get to the Puerto Plata bus station and the other from the terminal to the hotel where I spent my last night in the DR.

Have a great vacation!

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