Comme la tradition le veut, voici quelques éléments d'un voyage qui n'était pas évident de réaliser compte tenu des événements de février dans ce pays.
Je m'interdis de faire des commentaires sur la politique de ce pays, mais je ne peux m'empêcher de dire que les malgaches n'avaient vraiment pas besoin de ce coup d'état qui va peser très lourd sur leur quotidien d'autant qu'il apparaît de plus en plus que le nouvel "homme fort" est à un milliard d'années lumière de l'étoffe d'un chef d'état.
On m'a rapporté de nombreuses exactions commises par les "nouvelles" forces de l'ordre qui ne sont que la répétition de ce qui s'est passé en février parce qu'en fait ce sont les mêmes personnes qui les commettent. En février, ils étaient infiltrés dans les forces de l'ordre et dans les manifestants et ont "organisé" la tuerie devant la présidence. En Avril, ils tirent sur les manifestant pro Ravalo et tabassent d'une manière horrible les personnes qu'ils arrêtent.
Bref...et bien que ces évènements soient limités à la ville de TANANARIVE, le coup d'état n'a rien arrangé... Même si le mot est fort, je considère que l'on a tous les ingrédients pour que cette "guerre civile" aboutisse à un bain de sang.
Pour en revenir au voyage... voici les endroits que j'ai fréquenté avec quelques commentaires.
Le circuit du sud.
AMBOUSITRA: Hotel JOHNATAN dans le centre ville. Propre, chambre à 26000Ar avec douche chaude, WC et télé. Cour fermée pour la moto, gardien. L'accueil est sympa.
MANANJARY: SORAFA hotel sur le bord de mer. Personne, le prix du petit futé est majoré de 50% donc cher et en plus pas sympa. Le parking pour la moto n'est pas fermé mais ils m'ont laissé la mettre dans l'entrée... Repas trés moyen... Pas envie d'y retourner...
MANAKARA beaucoup de choses à faire dans le coin...
Hotel LES DELICES: rien à dire 25000 la chambre avec eau chaude, douche WC, la première nuit puis négociée à 20000 les 4 autres. Le resto est bon, le service est resplendissant, les habitués très accueillants. J'ai mangé une langouste énorme pour 12€ préparée avec passion par Sully. A retenir
Restaurant LE FUMOIR: Pas cher et bon. Y aller sans risque. Le basque qui le tient est haut en couleur et a besoin de travailler pour rester à flot...
Restaurant à coté de la gare...bien et bon. Une bonne adresse pour manger des pizzas et bien d'autres choses..
FARANFAGANA: Hotel des Cocotiers... sans doute un des rares hotels de la ville. Chambre à 30000 avec douche chaude et WC. Correct ainsi que le resto mais ...pas de clients....donc morne.
Le circuit du Nord.
MANKIPONY: Hotel les cocotiers. Pas de difficulté pour trouver mieux. J'ai pas cherché, parce que fatigué de la route. Chambre petite, douche froide pas de wc pour 15000. Cuisine à éviter....mais la patronne est sympa et voulait me marier à sa fille...alors...
AMBAJA:
Hotel MARAKECH. Neuf, 32000 douche chaude, wc et télé. Trés bien avec un acceuil sympa. Sécurité assurée pour la moto qui est à l'abri à l'intérieur mais hélas pas encore de restaurant.
Restaurant PATRICIA. Bon mais à part le patron qui parle un peu...c'est hélas un peu froid comme ambiance. Les chambres sont bien pour 22000ar. J'ai meme eu une baignoire mais l'eau est froide (enfin c'est pas grave, il faisait chaud) WC et moustiquaire. La moto est dans l'enceinte pas trop bien gardée mais je l'ai mise sur la terrasse à coté de la porte de la chambre. Je ne pense pas qu'elle ait été exposée.
DIEGO:
Hotel MORA MORA à proximité de la station service pas loin du commissariat central. Chambre climatisée avec eau chaude, WC et télé pour 36000. Rien à dire propre, cool, petit dej parfait, restaurant au dessous et la moto gardée dans la cour du garage à coté qui est tenu par le frère du proprio de l'hotel.
En ville...le choix mais je n'ai pas aimé la ville... alors forcément...
MAJUNGA.
Hotel KARON. Chambre eau chaude, wc et clim à 40000 sur la plage mais loin du centre. La moto n'est pas acceptée devant la chambre...il parait que cela peut géner les clients...qui ne sont pourtant pas nombreux. C'est mort...et parce que la moto pourrait réveiller les absents...je suis parti d'autant que la chambre était infectée de moustiques et abritait une souris que je n'ai pas pu déloger...
Hotel BADAMIER. Neuf, norme européenne et finitions à la hauteur. Télé, eau chaude, clim, WC pour 60000. Bien. Lit avec bon matelas. Un bon établissement, sur 4 niveaux. Personnel correct.
Restaurants VAHINY HOUSE. Superbe, bon. Patron sympa...sa femme est une reine de beauté.... Ambiance assurée avec des habitués sympa. Des chambres pour 40000 du même niveau que chez KARON mais sans la mer et sans les moustiques...
Restaurant le SUD BAR. Excellent. Propre, patrons et personnel sympa. Jai mangé un crabe énorme...pour 10000. Les portions sont copieuses et la qualité irréprochable. Dommage que la terrasse ne soit pas trop bien placée.
Voila, je vous ai donné quelques éléments qui ne seront peut etre pas partagés par d'autres mais ce sont les miens et comme je respecte ceux des autres...
La route est goudronnée partout sauf 40km avant d'atteindre ¨Port Bergé. Par ailleurs la route est coupée à 10km de MANKIPONY et il a fallu transborder la moto sur une pirogue au retour à cause du niveau d'eau qui était monté.
En deux séjours 8000 km environ, un pneu arrière changé chez TRACES à TANA que je recommande pour le sérieux et la disponibilité. Il loue également des motos de qualité. Pas de crevaison...sauf le dernier jour devant chez TRACES, pas de chute...mais beaucoup de situation de danger. Prudence indispensable.... Vitesse moyenne de l'ordre de 65km/h. Consommation de la moto 4.5 %...bien moins que le pilote.
En espérant que cela aidera quelqu'un ....et dispo pour répondre à toutes questions.
salut
merci pour les infos fraiches et precises (c est rare ici pour le noter)
loulou le patron du fumoir est un copain heureux que le resto t ai plu
sorafa meme analyse que toi pareil pour cocotier a farafangana
pour le nord a part karon ou l on mange tres tres bien a mon gout je n ai jamais frequente les etablissement cite sur majunga et dans les autres villes du nord pareil connais pas
mais vu la situation peut etre certains etablissements fermes
merci a plus
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
Bonjour,
Merci pour ces infos. Vous êtes passés à Farafangana d'après ce que je vois. Quelles ont été vos impressions, comment avez vous trouvez la ville, etc... Je pose ces questions parce que nous allons peut-être aller y vivre et que je suis à la recherche d'infos.
Merci et bonne journée
Bonjour, je me trouve à Tamatave et sur sa région depuis deux semaines et pour quelques temps encore, j'ai fait Tamatave, Foultpointe, Canal des Pangalanes, quelques sorties en brousse et je dois dire que, sans faire aucun commentaire sur la vie politique du pays je partage totalement votre point de vue. Je posterai quelques commentaires de voyage ainsi que des photos à mon retour. Et merci à JIPI pour ses conseils qui se sont avérés très judicieux
C'est une petite ville qui a eu ses heures de gloire du temps de la colonisation si on en croit un superbe "palais" qui se trouve prés du bord de mer.
Ne vous attendez pas à y trouver beaucoup de distractions... Je n'y suis resté qu'une fin d'après midi... c'est vraiment peu pour vous dire quelque chose de vraiment autorisé.
Par contre, j'ai le sentiment que les alentours ont beaucoup de charme...je pense notamment à l'intérieur vers VONDROZO...mais je ne connais pas l'état de la "route" qui est sans doute réduit à une piste défoncée en saison des pluies.
Enfin...attention, l'abus de langoustes peut nuire au tour de taille.... Il m'a été dit qu'elles y étaient abondantes et de belle taille....
Pour y aller, la route depuis TANA est superbe... RN7 correcte puis RN 45 sinueuse jusqu'à IRONDRO et enfin RN 12 vraiment belle et roulante.
Si je devez y vivre...je pense que je me préparerai à faire des excursions en 4*4...ce qui sous entend qu'il faut penser à s'en procurer pour cet usage local et non pour faire la route depuis tana...
J'espère avoir répondu modestement à ta question...mais n'oublie pas ce ne sont que des impressions superficielles.
merci à toi pour ton reportage détaillé
A mon retour j'essaierai d etre aussi précise
en tout cas je mets des étapes sur la carte et je rêve ... que c est pour bientôt
Bonjour,
Merci pour ce retour d'infos, j'imprime ton post. Il se trouve que je suis en train de boucler mes valises, je pars aujourd'hui même pour mada et pour 1 mois.
Ca fait du bien de trouver un post "mada" qui parle encore de voyage ..
Merci
Veloma
Rêver ma vie ou vivre mes rêves, mon choix est fait...
West en Harley
Route 66
New York
hi there! I’m heading to Vietnam with a biker friend for 3 months, starting from Hanoi... the plan is to do the northern loop, return to Hanoi, then head down to Ho Chi Minh City... and probably ride back up through the mountains. We’re leaving in February. Just a little detail—we’re two retirees, both 63, used to riding motorbikes, and we have French and international licenses... we’re looking for good tips and advice since we’re planning to buy 125cc Chinese bikes locally. Thanks to everyone, and happy trails—life is beautiful!
Hey everyone!
New to the forum, but not so new to Asia 😄
I’m Nico, from Switzerland, currently based in Bangkok. I love taking my motorcycle out to get lost in the mountains and small villages of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and more. I’ve been roaming around this area for a good fifteen years now, racking up quite a few kilometers—especially in northern Vietnam.
This time, I finally decided to tackle the Mae Hong Son Loop, clockwise. I’d been to Pai several times before, but oddly enough, I’d never done the full loop.
So, I’ll try to give you a little recap here, day by day, with the roads, stops, places worth checking out… and those that didn’t quite blow my mind 😅
I also filmed the trip, so I’ll post the corresponding video at the end of each day if that’s okay. If it’s not allowed here, just let me know, and I’ll remove them without any issue.
DAY 1 — Chiang Mai → Doi Inthanon → Mae Chaem → Khun Yuam
I left Chiang Mai after renting a Honda ADV 160 from Pop Motorbike. Not exactly an Africa Twin, but for what I had planned, it was more than enough.
Quick hotel note: I stayed at the Lanna Thaphae Hotel before leaving. Around 30 € per night, super well-located, and probably one of the most comfortable beds I’ve ever slept in. A crucial detail for any motorcycle road trip, obviously.
The plan for the day was pretty straightforward:
Head toward Doi Inthanon… and see what happens.
Flawless Swiss organization.
First stop along the way at Wachirathan Waterfall. A really nice waterfall, very easy to access, but don’t expect to channel your inner Indiana Jones—it’s crowded, touristy, and swimming isn’t allowed. Still, it’s a pretty stop along the way.
Next, up to Doi Inthanon.
The road climbs steeply, and my little 160cc started to realize that carrying my 80 kg to Thailand’s highest point probably wasn’t part of its youthful dreams. I was maxing out at 34 km/h in some spots.
But it made it. Good little bike.
The summit is nice—the forest is beautiful, and it’s cool—but I have to admit, it didn’t completely wow me. Glad I went, but not necessarily the highlight of the day for me.
Because then comes Route 1192.
And that’s *much* more my thing: small mountain roads, beautiful scenery, hardly any traffic… the kind of road where I usually start taking way too many unnecessary detours just because a little side road “looks fun.”
Stopped in Mae Chaem for a bite to eat, then headed to Khun Yuam to finish the day.
A little over 200 km in total.
Khun Yuam is… quiet.
*Very* quiet. 😅
A cute little market, a couple of cafés/restaurants, and zero chance of ending up in a club until 4 AM. But after a day on the bike, it was perfect.
Stayed at the Mit Khun Yuam Hotel, around 20 € for a small but very decent room.
All in all, a solid first day and a pretty relaxed start to the loop. Part of this leg is mostly about getting out of Chiang Mai and really diving into the mountains, in my opinion.
Because for me, the really interesting stuff starts over the next two days…
And a few slightly questionable route decisions will also make an appearance 😅
If anyone’s planning the Mae Hong Son Loop, feel free to ask your questions—I’d be happy to answer!
I also filmed this first day, so for those who’d rather see the roads and landscapes than read my rambling, here’s Day 1 😊
DAY 1 VIDEO
I’ll post the next part in the coming days with Day 2: Khun Yuam → Mae Surin → Mae Hong Son.
And that’s where it starts getting *really* fun. 😉
That’s all for now! Looking forward to contributing as much as I can to the forum!
I’d like to ride from Mahajanga to Morondava, sticking as close to the coast as possible—using roads and tracks—in September 2026. If you’ve got any suggestions, let me know! 😉
hi
I’m planning a 10-month trip to South America, and I’m looking into options for shipping a motorcycle to Buenos Aires by air or sea. If anyone has any info, thanks in advance!
christian
Hello everyone.
I'm looking for campsites around BOLZANO (South Tyrol) for early September.
I'll be on my motorcycle with a small tent.
I've noticed that some campsites have exorbitant prices.
If you've traveled through the Dolomites by motorcycle or otherwise and camped there, I'd love any tips on places and prices where I can stay for one night or several.
Thanks to all of you, and happy travels.
I’m starting to think about a trip that’s really close to my heart: Algeria by motorcycle, specifically the southern part of the country. It’d be for January 2025, and I’ve got two main questions:
Is it possible for an individual on a motorcycle to travel freely, outside of any organized tour, or does the regulation require some kind of supervision in the Algerian Sahara region?
Is the Hoggar massif accessible by road or by (rideable) tracks?
Beyond the official recommendations, I’m really looking for your firsthand experiences.
Thanks so much for your answers, and sorry if my questions are a bit newbie!
I just realized I’ve been registered on VoyageForum since... March 28, 2012 😊. Yet, I’ve barely participated until now.
August 1, 2026, will mark a somewhat special milestone: 5 years on the road.
We left Switzerland on August 1, 2021 with a simple idea: let chance decide our direction. We placed a bottle of wine on a world map, spun it... and it chose our first destination.
A year later, when we arrived in Morocco, we faced a new choice: continue toward Africa or head to Asia. This time, a tarot card game made the decision. Since then, we’ve tried to keep this journey as open to the unexpected as possible.
Today, that adds up to about 120,000 km, 46 countries, and over 1,800 days on the road—mostly by motorcycle, but also by sailboat, train, bus, hitchhiking, or on foot when adventure calls.
Our guiding thread isn’t just the motorcycle, but service exchanges. Instead of simply passing through countries, we try to stop regularly to lend a hand to the people we meet. So far, that’s about 600 days of volunteering.
Over the years, we’ve:
renovated a house in Croatia
made earth bricks in the Moroccan desert
helped sail a boat through the Greek islands
looked after houses, dogs, horses, a camel... and lots of other animals
worked at a street art festival in Morocco
created videos for local associations and projects
worked the grape harvest on the Tibetan plateau
been accredited as "media" for the World Nomad Games in Central Asia
Some of the moments that have stuck with us the most include six months in China, a night spent on the Great Wall, the Pamir Highway, the Silk Road, three months in Taiwan, and the incredible encounters in the mountains of Central Asia.
We travel on Falkor, our lucky dragon—a 2014 BMW F800GS that’s been with us since the start and is starting to have some great stories of its own.
While we share our adventure on Instagram, Polarsteps, and YouTube, that’s not why we’re here. The forum’s rules about promotion are clear, and I totally get them. If I’m finally taking the time to write, it’s mostly because after five years on the road, I thought our experience might be useful to other travelers.
Happy to chat about:
preparing for a long motorcycle trip
visas and borders
the Silk Road and Central Asia
riding in China (with or without a motorcycle)
volunteering and service exchanges while traveling
gear, daily life on the road... or just the unexpected moments that make long-term travel so special
Looking forward to swapping stories and hearing about your adventures too! 😊 Greetings from Thailand, and happy to chat! ✌️
Hello, I’m retired and planning a roughly 3-week motorcycle trip (1200gs). The dates aren’t set in stone yet, and everything’s open to discussion—I’m pretty flexible with the planning.
hi
planning to ride through Rajasthan on a motorcycle in January 2027 and I’d love to hear about the road conditions.
I’ll be riding with a buddy on a Royal Enfield that I’ll rent in Delhi.
Thanks for your tips!
hi there
I’d like to ride the RN 12 by motorcycle in September.
I’d love to know the main challenges—I ride a 300cc and do enduro in France.
Thanks for your tips!
I’m planning a motorcycle road trip to Armenia and Georgia in September 2026 or May 2027. I’m looking for one or more riders (male or female) who’d like to explore these countries with me.
Along the way, we’ll visit Cappadocia, the capitals Yerevan, Tbilisi, Sofia, Skopje, and other cities—we can finalize the route and roadbook later.
This trip requires experience with long motorcycle journeys, as we’ll cover around 7,000 km over 5 or 6 weeks (or more, depending on sightseeing and time spent).
I don’t expect dozens of applicants, since motorcycle riders are few and far between on this forum, but I’m putting this out there anyway.
Hi, I’d like to take a 15-day "break" to get away from the surrounding hustle and bustle.
Why not explore the Peloponnese!
I’m not particularly drawn to museums, ruins, or monuments.
I want to experience local life—small villages, seaside spots, beaches, and the interior if the landscapes are extraordinary.
Ideally, coming from Athens, I’d take a bus or train to get as close as possible to a starting point, then rent a scooter (125cc) to explore by taking secondary roads or even coastal paths. I’d stay in 2-3 places for a few days each to discover their surroundings.
Do a loop.
What do you think would be the ideal itinerary?
From Athens, the best option would be to take either a flight or a bus to Kalamata. Rent a scooter and head either west or east. Is there a tertiary road (very lightly trafficked) or a path where I can ride slowly, take it easy, and enjoy the scenery without being bothered by traffic? I’d like to go all the way to Monemvasia, still hugging the coast. I need to find a way to avoid returning to Kalamata to drop off the scooter and catch a flight—maybe a small town where the train stops so I can head back to Athens.
Thanks in advance for your tips.
I want to rent an off-road style motorcycle to get around the coast during my trip to Ecuador. I’m only finding options in Quito. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Hi there,
I’m planning a sidecar trip to South America for 4 or 5 months at the end of this year.
I’m looking for info on shipping my vehicle by sea—possibly to Uruguay or another destination, as I haven’t finalized anything yet.
How do you get visas for the countries I’ll be crossing: Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, and Chile? Are they e-Visas, obtained at the border, or through embassies?
Where can I get vehicle insurance?
Lastly, if any bikers want to join us (my partner and me), we’re open to that possibility too.
Patrick
I’ve got 15 days off in June and I’m pretty undecided about where to go for a motorcycle road trip. Two strong desires are pulling me in different directions: Corsica or Norway.
Corsica has been a dream of mine for a long time: legendary roads, stunning landscapes, a unique vibe, and the perfect mix of sea and mountains. At the same time, I’m wondering if 2 weeks might be *too much* for Corsica—risking feeling like I’ve seen it all too quickly, especially on a bike.
Since I also have an extra week free in May, I could use that specifically for Corsica. Maybe splitting it into two trips would make more sense? If so, which routes or regions would be the most interesting to plan for a 7-day trip?
On the other hand, Norway is *super* appealing. The landscapes look incredible, totally different from anything I’ve experienced, and it’d be a real “wow” trip. I know 15 days is still short for such a vast country. Getting all the way to the North Cape seems pretty much impossible in that time, but I’m curious about what realistic routes could be planned.
So I’m wondering:
Is it better to save Norway for next year, take 3 weeks off, and do it *properly*?
Or are 15 days enough for a first amazing taste of the country?
I’d love to hear about your experiences—whether it’s Corsica (ideal duration, routes) or Norway (what’s realistic in 2 weeks on a bike).
Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
Hello,
I'm thinking of buying a used small motorcycle to travel around the country for a month and a half.
I've done this in other countries without putting the registration in my name—is that possible in Guinea given the apparently frequent checks, or do I have to go through the paperwork?
Thanks.
Hello,
My dream is to ride Route 66 by motorcycle. I have a disability—while I’m not in a wheelchair, my walking mobility is reduced.
The ideal scenario would be to have a motorcycle driver and ride as their passenger on an organized trip.
Are there any guides or services like this offered by travel agencies?
Thanks for sharing your experiences!
Hello,
I’ve got a plan with a friend to go on a motorcycle road trip in 2028 or 2029, starting in Santiago de Chile and ending in Ushuaia, for about a month.
Has anyone done a trip like this before, and what’s the best time of year?
I’ve heard there can be quite a bit of wind depending on the season.
Thanks for any tips!
Cheers,
PA
I'm seriously considering heading to Nepal to do some nice motorcycle loops... my goal is also to do the Kailash Yatra round trip from Kathmandu, in a small group with a guide, in May '26... but here's the thing—I'm solo! So if you're up for sharing a similar adventure, hit me up... Cheers, Frankoys
It's all in the title: I'm heading to Krabi soon and want to rent a scooter for a few weeks, but after reading comments about all kinds of scams, I'm reaching out to ask where and how (read: *the right way*) to rent one.
Thanks for your tips and advice.
Hello everyone! Like every year, a winter migration is on the horizon (revised plan): this time, it’ll be Dakar, or even Abidjan, via Morocco, Mauritania, and Senegal.
Looking for an experienced motorcyclist or pillion rider—small build preferred—on a GSA 1250 with a comfy seat and luggage setup, available from early November to late December 2025. I’d like to plan the trip together (important to me) to make sure we’re on the same wavelength.
Don’t hesitate to get in touch!
Didier
Looking for travel companions to ride from France to Senegal by motorcycle.
I’m Paul, 37, and I’ve already done a bit of riding in Morocco.
For now, I’m solo, riding a 1998 SUZUKI DR 650 with some basic gear to keep things smooth. I’ll have a tent so we can do a few nights under the stars.
We’ll need to coordinate departure dates—"ideally in November."
I’m currently checking out routes to take. Any tips would be welcome! :)
I’m heading to Vietnam and Laos with a buddy next week for a month.
We’re thinking of renting motorbikes, especially to do the Ha Giang Loop. We don’t have an international license, just our Belgian one. Is that enough? If not, is it risky?
In November, we’re planning to do the Ha Giang loop and the RC4 by motorbike without a guide. 😎
We’re looking for a decent place to stay/rent in Ha Giang.
If anyone has any info, we’d be really interested.
Hello! We’re planning a motorcycle trip that will include a visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau in June 2026.
We’re unsure (still debating) whether we should stay at a hotel on-site and get to the memorial with an Uber (leaving our bikes at the hotel) and book a guided tour, or base ourselves in Kraków and take a tour that includes transport.
One thing’s for sure—we’d prefer a guide in French since we don’t speak English 😅.
Could you share your experiences or advice?
I understand we need to book online rather than on-site.
Thanks in advance for your replies!
