Je vous propose mon compte rendu d'un voyage initialement prévu sur 15 jours entre Guatemala et Belize, avec détour vers Copan, au Honduras. Cependant, un décès dans la belle famille nous a contraint à raccourcir ce séjour, et donc de zapper le Belize.
Nous avions décidé de louer une voiture pour être plus libre dans nos déplacements. Nous avons loué la voiture auprès de l'agence Tabarini, qui possède un site internet et plusieurs agences dans le pays. Cependant, n'hésitez pas à leur envoyer un mail et négocier le prix, ça marche et ils sont très réactifs. Location d'une Kia Picanto, qui a tout à fait bien fait l'affaire pour ce séjour, au prix de 400€ pour 9 jours incluant un drop off dans un site différent (location à Antigua et retour de la voiture à Flores).
7 mars : décollage de CDG vers Guatemala City avec escale de 4h à Miami, sur American Airlines. Compagnie nulle niveau confort et service, mais qui fait le job en emmenant d'un point A à un point B. Taxi de l'aéroport vers Antigua, environ 45min de trajet, négocié 25 US$. La négociation a été très (trop ?) facile... peut être y a t il moyen d'obtenir moins cher ?
Nuit à l'hotel Aurora, réservé sur booking, parfait.
8 mars : Balade dans les ruelles d'Antigua avec visite de quelques églises et couvents. Ville absolument charmante avec les volcans tout autour. Se perdre également dans les marchés devant les églises (surtout le dimanche). Nuit également à l'hôtel Aurora (1300 quetzals pour les 2 nuits).
9 mars : récupération de la voiture à l'agence Tabarini d'Antigua. Route vers le cerro de la Cruz pour profiter de la vue sur la ville. Puis route vers Panajachel puis San Antonio Palopo. Balade dans le village de San Antonio et nuit à l'hôtel Nuevos Suenos, vue magnifique sur le lac, petit déjeuner face au lac au lever du soleil... (300 quetzals). Attention, il faut savoir que les routes autour du lac sont vraiment pourries, pas toujours goudronnées... donc difficile avec une voiture non 4x4. Avec le recul, il vaut mieux la garer à un endroit et se balader sur le lac en bateau.
10 mars : Trajet en voiture vers San Pedro... chaotique ! ça nous a presque pris la journée... ne pas se fier non plus à google map qui vous trouve des routes quand il n'y en a pas vraiment... Balade dans San Pedro mais surtout repos à l'hotel El Amanecer Sac'Kari (305 quetzal/nuit) pour se remettre du trajet horrible. Très bel hotel directement sur le lac.
11 mars : Trajet en bateau vers Santiago la laguna. Balade vers le Cerro de Oro à pied et ascension du Cerro.
12 mars : Route vers Chichicastengo. Marché et visite des 2 églises. Nuit au Mayan Inn.
13 mars : Route vers Copan. Google map avait prévu 5h30 de route, donc on ne s'est pas pressé et on a commencé à rouler vers 11h30... Grosse erreur car la route a duré 8h30 !!! entre les embouteillages sur le périphérique de Guatemala City et les camions qui roulent à 40 à l'heure sans qu'on puisse les doubler... du coup arrivée à la frontière du Honduras de nuit. Passage de la frontière sans problème qui a l'air d'être ouverte H24. Copan n'est plus qu'à 10km après la frontière. Nuit à Casa Gabriela, sans intérêt et cher. La ville de Copan Ruinas est assez mignonne, très animée, avec pas mal de restos et de bars.
14 mars : Visite des ruines de Copan. Très belles ruines avec de nombreuses stèles très bien conservées, un bel escalier de "hiéroglyphes" maya, des perroquets ara en liberté sur le site... Le site se visite en 4h en prenant le temps.
Puis reprise de la route en direction de Rio Dulce, avec arrêt avant la tombée de la nuit à Los Amates, à l'hotel Santa Monica, genre de Motel américain sur le bord de la route.
15 mars : Visite des ruines maya de Quirigua. Changement d'ambiance végétale par rapport à Copan qui n'est pourtant qu'à 50km à vol d'oiseau : bananeraies, cocotiers... bcp plus tropical quoi. Les stèles sont très belles également. Le site est plus petit que Copan. Route vers Rio Dulce puis lancha jusqu'à Livingston. Très beau trajet sur le Rio Dulce avec des paysages de jungle et de mangrove autour, ainsi que de très nombreux oiseaux. Possibilité de se faire déposer dans les quelques hôtels perdus dans la jungle (l'accueil par la proprio de l'hotelito perdido avait l'air sympa). Arrivée à Livingston et balade dans la ville. Diner dans un très bon restaurant (Casa Nostra) puis nuit à l'hotel Vila Caribe.
16 mars : matinée à la piscine de l'hotel puis trajet vers Rio Dulce pour récupérer la voiture et faire le trajet jusqu'à Tikal. Nuit au Jaguar Inn dans le parc de Tikal. Nous avons trouvé que l'option de dormir dans le parc est assez pratique car on est vraiment à 2 min à pied de l'entrée du site. On peut donc le découvrir très tot le matin avant l'arrivée des groupes de touristes. Par contre, le diner au Haguar Inn est cher et mauvais... essayer de diner ailleurs ou avant d'arriver au parc. Attention, le resto ne sert plus à diner après 21h.
17 mars : découverte du magnifique site de Tikal. Très belle cité maya enfouie dans la jungle (j'en ferais pas des tonnes, mais nous avons vraiment adorés). Nuit à Flores à l'hotel Peten (très beau coucher de soleil sur le lac Peten Itza, chambres grandes et propres)
18 mars : retour anticipée vers Paris en raison du décès. Rapatriement via europ assistance qui ont bien fait leur travail. Du coup je peux vous parler de l'aéroport de Flores qui est vraiment tout petit. Nous avons enregistré nos bagages 30min avant le décollage. Le passage de la sécurité se fait en 2min chrono. Nous avons pris un vol Avianca vers Guatemala city (45min) qui s'est très bien passé.
Par ailleurs le retour de la voiture à l'agence Tabarini à Flores n'a pas posé de problème, équipe très sympa et pro.
Pour info, la suite du trajet initial devait être :
18 mars : bus à 7h de Flores à Belize city puis bateau vers Ambergris Caye
19-20-21 mars : plongée, snorkeling et plage à Ambergris, retour à Belize City
22 mars : Orange walk et cité maya
23 mars : décollage de Belize City pour Paris via Miami.
Pour info également, nous avions payé nos billets d'avion CDG-MIA-GUA puis BZE-MIA-CDG environ 620€/personne.
Merci pour ce compte-rendu, nous envisageons un circuit similaire en aout prochain, famille de 4 personnes, j'ai entendu parler en bien de Tabarini, je vois que tu confirmes et je ne pensais pas que l'on pouvait négocier leurs tarifs !
Concernant la sécurité sur les routes, pas liée au trafic, mais plutôt aux risques d'attaques, as-tu suivi des recommandations particulières, des escortes, éviter certains tronçons ?
Merci, cordialement,
Jean-Marc
Merci pour ce compte-rendu, nous envisageons un circuit similaire en aout prochain, famille de 4 personnes, j'ai entendu parler en bien de Tabarini, je vois que tu confirmes et je ne pensais pas que l'on pouvait négocier leurs tarifs !
Concernant la sécurité sur les routes, pas liée au trafic, mais plutôt aux risques d'attaques, as-tu suivi des recommandations particulières, des escortes, éviter certains tronçons ?
Merci, cordialement,
Jean-Marc
Non aucune recommandation particulière, ni d'escorte ; nous avons suivi les routes préconisées par google map. Nous n'avons jamais senti d'insécurité ni sur les routes ni dans les villes visitées... Ce qui ne veut pas dire qu'il n'y en a pas. D'ailleurs il y avait pas mal de police ou de militaire sur les routes et dans les villes.
Je pars avec mon amie au Guaté/Bélize début avril.
On fera à peux près le même trajet que vous sauf que nous n'irons pas à Livingstone mais à Sémuc Champey.
La différence aussi avec vous (et c'est la que vient ma question) c'est que nous ne louerons pas de voiture mais ferons tous nos trajets en bus (pas forcement des schuttles mais plutôt des chickens bus. Pensez vous que c'est facilement réalisable, les bus déversent-ils biens les principales villes et lieux touristiques ?
Bonjour Antoine,
Je pense me rendre au Guatemala l'hiver prochain. J'ai repéré le même type de vol avec American Airlines, le vol arrive aux environs de 20h30 à Guatemala City. Etiez-vous arrivé à la même heure ? C'est pour envisager de prendre un taxi de suite pour Antigua.
Merci de votre réponse
Lise
Bonjour Antoine,
Je pars bientôt au Guatemala et compte, comme vous, louer une voiture, avec un tronçon similaire au vôtre: Quiriga-Tikal, via Le Rio Dulce/Livingston. A ma question: que fait-on de la voiture pendant cette escapade, vous avez partiellement répondu en disant "nous récupérons la voiture à Rio Dulce....". J'en conclus que vous avez laissé la voiture à Rio Dulce, mais pouvez-vous me dire où (parking sécurisé, je suppose)?
Merci pour votre réponse
Bonjour Antoine,
Je pars bientôt au Guatemala et compte, comme vous, louer une voiture, avec un tronçon similaire au vôtre: Quiriga-Tikal, via Le Rio Dulce/Livingston. A ma question: que fait-on de la voiture pendant cette escapade, vous avez partiellement répondu en disant "nous récupérons la voiture à Rio Dulce....". J'en conclus que vous avez laissé la voiture à Rio Dulce, mais pouvez-vous me dire où (parking sécurisé, je suppose)?
Merci pour votre réponse
Bonjour Christine,
Oui nous avions laissé notre voiture dans un parking sécurisé près du débarcadère, mais je ne pourrai plus vous dire où exactement. Il me semble que c'était le parking d'un hôtel ou quelque chose du genre. Nous avions été alpagué par une personne qui nous y a conduit. Il y avait peut être mieux ailleurs ? En tout cas nous n'avions pas eu de problème lorsque nous sommes retourné la récupérer.
Bon voilà un petit CR de notre périple de quasi 3 semaines au Guatemala (+ Copán et Bélize) J1: Arrivée à l’aéroport de Ciudad Guatemala, nous prenons un…
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Amérique Centrale › Guatemala / Belize · 4 replies
Nous préparons un voyage en couple pour l'été prochain en circuit au Guatemala et au Belize. Nous prévoyons d'effectuer les trajets en shuttle même si c'est un…
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap.
It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!"
The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this!
Philippe
I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it...
Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)?
According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later).
Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
Hi,
For those who’ve tried it, are Uber or similar services (if available—could you also let me know the names of local equivalents?) reliable and safe?
Thanks in advance.
Philippe
J'en appelle à vos connaissances et expériences car nous partons avec mon compagnon tout le mois de févier 20 au Guatemala et Belize, et nous avons besoin de conseils .
Je pensais rester au Guatemala 20 jours et 10 jours au Belize ; d'autant que notre avion arrive à Guatemala City et repart du Belize.
Nous pensions prendre un conducteur guide sur une partie au Guatemala, quelle partie d’après vous? Si nous choisissons ce pays c'est pour tout ce qu'il peut nous apporter en culture, traditions... donc faire l'impasse sur un guide serait dommage mais j'imagine difficile de le garder sur 20 jours...
Donc peut être une semaine, dix jours. Quel budget faut-il compter? Et surtout avez vous des contacts de guides conducteurs sérieux?
Nous vous remercions par avance pour vos précieux conseils.
Marilyne
Good evening,
We’re planning a long stay in Panama and Costa Rica (one of the perks of being retired), and I’m having a bit of trouble preparing for this trip.
I’ll start with Panama first, then move on to Costa Rica with my questions.
I’ll share my initial ideas a bit randomly—my partner is a bird enthusiast and photographer, so we’ll take our time in certain spots.
1) Late arrival in Panama City
2-3-4-5) Exploring the city—the canal, Gamboa Rainforest, Gatun Lake, Pipeline Road, and Soberanía National Park.
6-7: We’re thinking of heading to the San Blas Islands for 2 nights.
8: Return to Panama City
9-10-11: Renting a car to go to El Valle de Antón for 3 nights.
12-13-14: Heading to the Azuero Peninsula for 3 nights.
15-16-17: We’d love to visit Coiba Island, but it seems tricky to fit into our itinerary.
18-19-20: Boquete and Volcán Barú for 3 nights.
21: Drive to Almirante and head to the Bocas del Toro Archipelago.
22-23: 2 nights there.
24: Return, drop off the car, and cross the border on foot at Sixaola.
If any of you can help, thank you so much!
Christiane
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Bonjour,
Nous partons à playa del carmen pour 2 semaines en aout avec une enfant de 4 ans.
On a vu qu'on pouvez faire des visites seuls comme Tulum ou cozumel avec les colectivo. Coba on hesite à la faire seul parce qu'on aimerait faire les cenotes et voir le village maya.
Mais on souhaiterait trouver une agence francophone qui garantit des visites en petits groupes surtout pour siian kan.
On prefere eviter les tours de mimi bien que recommandé par beaucoup de monde et le guide du routard suite aux commentaires lus.
Je suis interessé par l'agence Muuch ximbal qui a l'air de faire des sortie un peu differentes. Il y a aussi H et L Tours ou celle de Delphine Fautré (mais les 2 derniere ne fournissent pas les prix des excursions). On a aussi trouvé promomaya mais apparement ils n'ont pas d'agence sur place.
Avez vous des conseils ou d'autres agences à recommandé.
On souhaiterait aussi nager avec les dauphins mais en dehors des parc xcaret et el xa. Connaissez vous d'autres moyen pour nager avec eux peut etre meme en pleine mer???
J'ai egalement vu qu'il etait possible de nager avec les requins baleines: est ce possible avec une enfant de 4 ans qui n'aime pas encore mettre la tete dans l'eau? L'avez vous fait. Cette excursion coute assez chere et pour nager avec je veux bien mais juste pour naviguer sur un bateau sans pouvoir les apercevoir ca me decevrait.
PS: on ne parle pas tres bien l'espagnol.
Je vous remercie par avance pour vos reponses.
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22.
We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short.
So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day
- Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán
- Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover:
Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22.
Actually, I have a few questions:
Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough?
We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it.
Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market.
We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day?
We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees.
We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive.
Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost.
Thanks so much for your help!
Annick
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua
Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel
Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel
Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ??
Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores
Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores
Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores
Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough.
Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day?
I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times:
- How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please?
I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕.
Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus?
Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU
PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t.
No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto
- The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul
- The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán
- Antigua, very touristy but beautiful
- Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy).
So, we’re leaning toward something like this:
- Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city)
- Puebla: 3 days
- Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?)
- Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours)
- Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala.
Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua
- Atitlán
- Lanquín
- Río Dulce
- El Remate – Flores
- Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín
- Lanquín – Río Dulce
- Río Dulce – El Remate
- Flores – Guatemala City
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
Nous souhaiterions faire un tour à Yaxchilan et Bonampack depuis Palenque mais il semble qu'il y ait une multitude d'agences de voyage proposant ce tour. On a également lu de nombreuses déceptions...avez vous des recommandations?
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are:
- Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier?
- Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things:
- **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island?
- **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend?
- **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car.
Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour.
Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum.
Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view).
Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera.
End the day at Playa Paraíso.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal.
Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal.
Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen.
Evening on 5th Avenue.
Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino).
Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min).
Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos.
Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport.
Return rental car. Return flight.
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cozumel
- Holbox
- Valladolid
- Tulum
- Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José.
Thanks for your help!
