Why South Africa? A simple example!
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Translated into English.

Original post
MI
Hello everyone...

Well, here I am, back again...

By chance, a bit like Mrs. Attila, my route roughly followed the same paths I took 8 and 6 years ago... I even thought of various travel journal titles like... "Where the grass has grown back!"

And then. People who know me (and some forum members) must be wondering:

"Why come back so often, almost every year since the 2000s, to this part of the world?"

Usually, I answer:

For the people, the landscapes, the animals. Because it’s a big country, a very big one where the horizon feels even farther away.

A country with so much variety—deserts, mountains, oceans, cities...

Because it’s a country that’s quite easy for "average" Europeans to navigate in terms of hygiene, food, driving, and way of life... Because you can plan your entire trip from your living room, all by yourself.

And because there’s still a pioneer spirit in the air.

And most of all, it’s a country that has turned toward the future without forgetting its past, giving the word "forgiveness" its full meaning.

Well, all that... those are just words.

Here comes, little by little, an example of a "classic" itinerary—simple, reliable, efficient, and balanced. Three weeks of discoveries, a first taste of this country!

Hence the final title of this travel journal:

Why South Africa? A simple example!

MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
The 2018 trip:

Straddling May and early June. A first for me at these dates. (In that area, I’d been in September and October, also August and July... and April.) My worry? The cold! Especially at the start in GG... and at the end in Kruger.

It could’ve been worse—and it was for those who went under snow and negative temperatures at Mountain Retreat the following week.

The open 4x4 drives were freezing!

But zero rain! Plenty of sunshine from the Drakensberg (except Days 1 and 2) to Isimangaliso... with a dip (more like a quick splash) in the Indian Ocean. Wind in Kruger and Manyeleti... and wind isn’t great for the animals.

3,500 km in total—detours and drives included!

Joburg / Golden Gate (Mountain Retreat, 2N) / Antbear Lodge, 2N / St Lucia (Whalesong Guest House, 1N), Tembe Elephant Park, 2N), Isimangaliso (Makakatana Bay Lodge, 3N), Eswatini, Hlane NP, Ndlovu camp, 1N, Berg en Dal, Lower Sabie, Satara, Letaba (1N each), Manyeleti, 2N, Sabie Sands, Umkumbe, 1N, Dullstroom, Crichton Hackle Lodge, 1N, and Joburg).
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
First off...

I’d promised a map of the GG trails.



I want to be really clear...

The map isn’t great, and the signage is minimal. One misinterpretation led us onto some really tough sections... The Mushroom isn’t a loop but just a straightforward out-and-back... if you keep going like we did... you always think you’re about to reach the summit... and eventually you do... but...

A map of the Highmoor paths.

It’s quite a hike, pretty easy but still a decent walk.



A map of St. Lucia Beach interconnections are closed to cars, and the mouth area is off-limits.

AN Annachris Veteran ·
Hi there,

I’ll be one of your readers—I’m planning a trip to South Africa in August 2019! Normally, it’ll be 3 weeks on a classic route, or maybe a little more offbeat with a detour into the Limpopo region.
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
The Limpopo, why not. I went there and don’t regret a thing, but it’s also a matter of time. In the west, Marakele; in the center, Soutpansberg and Mapungubwe; in the east, Venda Country and the Tzaneen and Haenertsburg regions.
MA Marati Globetrotter ·
Hello Michel, It’s done, I’m back... 😕 I’m diving right in to make the most of it with your intro, which is already making my mouth water. And thanks for the Highmoor map—super helpful.

"but why come back so often, almost every year since the 2000s, to this part of the world?"

Maybe, quite simply and selfishly, for your happiness and the emotions this region brings you. Some people string together different destinations because they want to experience as many cultures, landscapes, and monuments as possible. That’s a respectable approach—time flies, after all. Among my circle, I even know people who use the term "doing" a destination, ticking it off their checklist and listing their "achievements" in conversations. I struggle a bit with that mindset, but hey, everyone’s free to make their own choices.

But it’s just as respectable to fall in love with a region of the world, like you have, to dream of returning every year or regularly because the desire to come back is stronger than the urge to explore somewhere new. Travel involves financial sacrifices, so you might as well get the most enjoyment out of it. When my wife talks about our first trip to Southern Africa (SAF for us), she still has stars in her eyes, even almost two years later. So we’ll have to go back...

Can’t wait for the rest! 🙂 !
BO Boulwai Regular ·
Oh finally!!!! I'm starting to get tired of coming home alone while the buddies keep having fun over there! 😛 Generally speaking, the hiking maps and park maps are still a bit poorly made. The worst is definitely the Hlane Park map... Anyway, just like Mme Agnès, thanks for sharing your incredible experience of the country.
GA Gallup Regular ·
Hi Michel, Great to see a new travel journal! I’m jumping ahead a bit in your story: could you give me your thoughts on the Whalesong guesthouse? I’ve already booked in St Lucia, but I’m not entirely sure about my choice. Thanks for your reply, Christine
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Friendly welcome, simple but fine room, good breakfast, a pool, all on one of the slightly set-back streets so... no problem for me.
GA Gallup Regular ·
Thanks Michel for your quick reply.
RJ Rjulie95 Globetrotter ·
I always board with great excitement, since I can only follow this country online now 🙁
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
There's room in the Fortuner...

From Hertz, no problem—on the contrary, asked for a 4x2...it was delivered as a 4x4! Automatic.

The proud steed



Automatic is great for those less experienced with 4x4s. It’s also handy if you’re not used to driving on the left. 4x4...not really necessary except in Tembe’s sand...and on a few small loops in Kruger or to reach the final destination in Manyeleti. The car’s a bit big...but it’s more comfortable and safer! I’d vote for that. It’s not necessarily the thing to skimp on since it’s a safety—and comfort—factor. A place where you’ll spend a lot of time!

In South Africa, driving is always a bit stressful due to the—bad—habits of local drivers. They drive too fast, and road markings are just indicative. Similarly...vehicles going at very different speeds can be on the same road, especially trucks and public transport.

You’ve got to be cautious, and just because 120 is the limit doesn’t mean you should drive at 120.

Plus...there are pedestrians by the roadside, including lots of schoolkids...cows and goats. To make things trickier...those infamous potholes and traffic calming humps.

Watch out for speed cameras too...

For the license: an international one is technically required. As usual, neither the rental company, customs, nor the police (even in Eswatini)...nobody...asked for the precious document.
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Tick fever!

In South Africa, a certain tick transmits rickettsiosis.

(It’s not Lyme disease.)

What’s unique about this tick is that it doesn’t stay attached to its host. It bites and then takes off... So, you only find evidence of its bite... usually when you’re already sick.

In my case:

Moderate fever, fatigue, chills, etc., a few days before returning. The start of a sore throat or who knows what!

No more symptoms in the following days, but the guy just wouldn’t get better!

French lab tests didn’t provide any explanations.

A good dose of Doxycycline served as the diagnosis—the proof was in the treatment.

The bite... it eventually showed up between two toes (me, who never goes barefoot outside!).

Well, from now on, we’ll be even more careful about ticks and pack Doxycycline just in case!

Apart from that (a first for me)... South Africa remains a safe country in terms of health (water, food, etc.). For malaria... It’s present east of the Musina/Richards Bay line. I don’t take anything, but I mostly travel between May and November... In that malaria zone, I’d think twice about traveling during another season. Mosquito protection, yes! I’m not getting into the bar-stool debate of "what do *you* take?" Everyone decides for themselves. (My advice, after catching tick fever, is worth what it’s worth!).
MA Max68 Globetrotter ·
Hi Michel,

Thanks for taking the time to share your passion for South Africa with us! 😛 🙂

my journey roughly followed the routes I took 8 and 6 years ago...

Any nostalgia vibes going on here? 😉
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Left Tambo in a hurry. Headed south. Departed before noon, expected to arrive at GG before nightfall.

A quick stop to grab a bite and do some shopping.

https://www.google.fr/maps/dir/A%C3%A9roport+international+OR+Tambo+(JNB), +1+Jones+Rd, +Kempton+Park, +Johannesburg, +1632, +Afrique+du+Sud/Golden+Gate+Highlands+National+Park, +Clarens, +Afrique+du+Sud/@-28.1111361,27.5158851,7z/data=!4m24!4m23!1m15!1m1!1s0x1e95143805a229c3:0xb3bf1c40792821d6!2m2!1d28.2411459!2d-26.1366728!3m4!1m2!1d28.5305249!2d-27.2428748!3s0x1e934e34a46b4749:0xceef76bf063dd925!3m4!1m2!1d28.7742939!2d-28.3835026!3s0x1ef2a9f369107765:0xb4380a953cb4d42d!1m5!1m1!1s0x1e8d532e446c5195:0x64e96049eb394351!2m2!1d28.6166667!2d-28.5166667!3e0
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Mountain retreat:

This is one of the chalets that’ll be our lodging for the next few nights.

Tucked away on a summit at the end of the Oribi loop, it’s already a bit of a drive to get there. It’s simple but cozy—just what you’d expect from a San Park chalet. What really matters is the view... We’re at 2,000 meters.

We’re starting with some uncooperative weather and wind strong enough to knock the horns off buffalo and moose!













The aforementioned chalets

Well, it’s cold! It’s windy! It’s cloudy!

Can’t complain, though—we can go for a walk without getting too hot... it’s not raining... and who knows about tomorrow?
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Day 1

After a late arrival, The chalets are reached via the Oribi loop

Here’s the map again



Here’s the entrance



A wood fire to warm up the atmosphere... the tiny electric heater is for the bedroom!



A quick meal at the park’s restaurant... it’s on the map. You can drive at night in this park. As for the restaurant, let’s just say we ate somewhere warm, pretty good, and I got to speak a bit of Zulu.

The next day turns out to be windy and changeable. The view remains exceptional.





Not many animals, but still some brown wildebeest and zebras, plus jackals





Landscapes—remember, the weather was changeable...











The chalets seen from afar !
PE Peruginko Regular ·
We’re also joining mainly because part of the itinerary is the same as ours, so it’s super helpful for our planning.
CA Catoche ·
Awesome! This reminds me that in just a month, it’ll be my turn! I’ll be following this travel journal with a lot of interest 😉
MI Michel85200 Globetrotter ·
Loop...

Two loops—the first is Oribi, and the second a bit further on.









By the way, are these zebras Hartmann’s or Mountain zebras?





Really cool... cloudy version, though.

On the last one, look closely at the mushrooms (the peaks that look a bit like them)... we’ll talk about them soon.

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