Original post
J'aimerai louer une voiture en Russie, c'est possible de conduire avec le permis français ? Et si vous avez des conseils, je suis preneur. Merci.
Arvi pa
Louer une voiture en Russie
by Liliancd
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
J'aimerai louer une voiture en Russie, c'est possible de conduire avec le permis français ?
le permis international accompagnant le permis européen est obligatoire.
Et si vous avez des conseils, je suis preneur. Merci.
selon où tu vas, le type des services de location varie:
Initialement la Russie était dépourvue des louageurs euro-américains trans-nationaux à la Avis, Hertz, Europcar, Sixt, Budget, etc. Les aéroports des deux premières villes, MSK et SPb sont les endroits où ces louageurs se sont d'abord implantés. Cela s'est étendu à de grosses villes régionales telle Yékatérinbourg.
Mais la location de voiture est courante depuis longtemps en privée: un particulier qui possède une ou plusieurs voitures, les loue par procuration. On se voit confier une lettre notariée standart qui est la procuration avec un formulaire-contrat, une copie de la carte grise, de la police d'assurance. Une caution importante se paye en espèces. Par défaut le kilométrage était limité à 200 kms par jour, et dans l'oblast. Mais ça se négocie. Ce genre de location pullule dans les annonces des journaux locaux en ligne. Certains ont développé la chose au niveau d'entreprise, mais avec le même fonctionnement de base.
La dernière fois que j'ai loué ainsi c'était en 2008 ou 2009. Plus récemment (cette année) j'ai aperçu en Russie des réclames pour de la location de voiture, de la part d'une enseigne autre que les euro-américains. Je n'ai pensé à y regarder de plus près mais cela semblait être une entreprise russe se positionnant dans ce créneau.
Encore une fois encore tout dépend de l'endroit où tu veux louer: grosse ville principale zoo à touristes étrangers càd. SPb et MSK ainsi que capitales provinciales importantes (Yékatérinbourg. Novossibirsk, Vladivostok, Rostov (?) Krasnodar (?)...) ou villes provinciales (Mourmansk, Novgorod, Piétrozavodsk, Vologda, Ijevsk, Astrakhan, etc).
Sur la route, aspects pratiques:
les cameras/radars sont dorenavant presents partout. 60 km/s en agglomeration. Ce qui inclut les troncons traverses par les routes federales (nombreux entre SPb et MSK, hors de la nouvelle M11, par exemple) 110 ou 100 km/h sur routes federales
mais la tolerance est elevee: +20 km/h.
théoriquement, si la camera du radar fonctionne, l'amende est expédiée à l'adresse du propriétaire du véhicule
ne franchit jamais une ligne blanche, meme pour quelques mètres. Si une patrouille de police de la route est embusquée un peu plus loin, c'est très ennuyeux. La sanction par défaut est le retrait de permis.
a la pompe, sauf quelques rares stations, soit tu achètes à la caisse un montant de carburant puis tu remplis ou l'employé de pompe le fait, soit tu donnes une carte ou un gros montant en liquide à la caisse, comme caution pour le plein que tu vas faire, puis celui-ci effectué tu règles le montant exact. Dans ce cas la tu dis a la caisse "na polno" (jusqu'au plein) en déposant ta carte ou liquide. Selon les villes et régions, le caisse peut vouloir effectuer une petite transaction pour tester la carte.
péages sur quelques segments de périph urbains, a SPb comme a MSK, et péages sur les autoroutes telles la M4 (MSK-Krasnodar-Crimée) : cartes Visa/Master acceptées
de manière générale, tu parles russe avec le louageur, à la pompe, avec les rencontres de hasard, la police (plutot serviable et relax avec les étrangers européens), mais si tu constates que tu t'es mis en infraction, lorsque l'agent embusqué sort son baton blanc pour t'enjoindre à t'arreter sur le bas-côté, alors là tu ne sais pas parler un mot de russe, et tu ne donnes pas ton permis de conduire, seulement le permis international, et tu joues à l'idiot. Encore une fois: ne franchis pas de ligne blanche!
autres aspects pratiques:
- les grands rond-points échangeurs sur les routes fédérales sont prioritaires pour les véhicules roulant sur la route même. Le grand cercle est juste un échangeur où le véhicule n'est pas prioritaire
- sur les longs troncons à chaussées séparées il y a régulièrement, tous les deux kms environs, une ouverture sur le couloir de gauche, pour effectuer un changement de direction.
- en ville à certains carrefours complexes, il peut y avoir des types de feux de signalisation peu courants en Europe de l'Ouest, avec un petit panneau au-dessus d'un des feux, indiquant que par exemple tourner à droite est permis (s'il n'y a pas de véhicule venant de la gauche) ou autre exception à la signalétique par defaut des feux.
- il faut avoir un GPS avec mise à jour des infos traffic, si on roule à SPb , MSK ou autre grande ville. c'est vital pour MSK, notamment autour. En logiciel payant, je n'ai jamais vu mieux que Navitel (c'est russe). Mais en logiciel gratuit, Yandex Navigator est excellent. Pour les re-routages au vol en fonction du tarif, il faut bien sûr être connecté et pour cela, Megafon est excellent dans tout le nord, nord-ouest, grandes villes, MTS dans les grandes villes, Russie du sud et centrale.
Bonne route!
le permis international accompagnant le permis européen est obligatoire.
Et si vous avez des conseils, je suis preneur. Merci.
selon où tu vas, le type des services de location varie:
Initialement la Russie était dépourvue des louageurs euro-américains trans-nationaux à la Avis, Hertz, Europcar, Sixt, Budget, etc. Les aéroports des deux premières villes, MSK et SPb sont les endroits où ces louageurs se sont d'abord implantés. Cela s'est étendu à de grosses villes régionales telle Yékatérinbourg.
Mais la location de voiture est courante depuis longtemps en privée: un particulier qui possède une ou plusieurs voitures, les loue par procuration. On se voit confier une lettre notariée standart qui est la procuration avec un formulaire-contrat, une copie de la carte grise, de la police d'assurance. Une caution importante se paye en espèces. Par défaut le kilométrage était limité à 200 kms par jour, et dans l'oblast. Mais ça se négocie. Ce genre de location pullule dans les annonces des journaux locaux en ligne. Certains ont développé la chose au niveau d'entreprise, mais avec le même fonctionnement de base.
La dernière fois que j'ai loué ainsi c'était en 2008 ou 2009. Plus récemment (cette année) j'ai aperçu en Russie des réclames pour de la location de voiture, de la part d'une enseigne autre que les euro-américains. Je n'ai pensé à y regarder de plus près mais cela semblait être une entreprise russe se positionnant dans ce créneau.
Encore une fois encore tout dépend de l'endroit où tu veux louer: grosse ville principale zoo à touristes étrangers càd. SPb et MSK ainsi que capitales provinciales importantes (Yékatérinbourg. Novossibirsk, Vladivostok, Rostov (?) Krasnodar (?)...) ou villes provinciales (Mourmansk, Novgorod, Piétrozavodsk, Vologda, Ijevsk, Astrakhan, etc).
Sur la route, aspects pratiques:
les cameras/radars sont dorenavant presents partout. 60 km/s en agglomeration. Ce qui inclut les troncons traverses par les routes federales (nombreux entre SPb et MSK, hors de la nouvelle M11, par exemple) 110 ou 100 km/h sur routes federales
mais la tolerance est elevee: +20 km/h.
théoriquement, si la camera du radar fonctionne, l'amende est expédiée à l'adresse du propriétaire du véhicule
ne franchit jamais une ligne blanche, meme pour quelques mètres. Si une patrouille de police de la route est embusquée un peu plus loin, c'est très ennuyeux. La sanction par défaut est le retrait de permis.
a la pompe, sauf quelques rares stations, soit tu achètes à la caisse un montant de carburant puis tu remplis ou l'employé de pompe le fait, soit tu donnes une carte ou un gros montant en liquide à la caisse, comme caution pour le plein que tu vas faire, puis celui-ci effectué tu règles le montant exact. Dans ce cas la tu dis a la caisse "na polno" (jusqu'au plein) en déposant ta carte ou liquide. Selon les villes et régions, le caisse peut vouloir effectuer une petite transaction pour tester la carte.
péages sur quelques segments de périph urbains, a SPb comme a MSK, et péages sur les autoroutes telles la M4 (MSK-Krasnodar-Crimée) : cartes Visa/Master acceptées
de manière générale, tu parles russe avec le louageur, à la pompe, avec les rencontres de hasard, la police (plutot serviable et relax avec les étrangers européens), mais si tu constates que tu t'es mis en infraction, lorsque l'agent embusqué sort son baton blanc pour t'enjoindre à t'arreter sur le bas-côté, alors là tu ne sais pas parler un mot de russe, et tu ne donnes pas ton permis de conduire, seulement le permis international, et tu joues à l'idiot. Encore une fois: ne franchis pas de ligne blanche!
autres aspects pratiques:
- les grands rond-points échangeurs sur les routes fédérales sont prioritaires pour les véhicules roulant sur la route même. Le grand cercle est juste un échangeur où le véhicule n'est pas prioritaire
- sur les longs troncons à chaussées séparées il y a régulièrement, tous les deux kms environs, une ouverture sur le couloir de gauche, pour effectuer un changement de direction.
- en ville à certains carrefours complexes, il peut y avoir des types de feux de signalisation peu courants en Europe de l'Ouest, avec un petit panneau au-dessus d'un des feux, indiquant que par exemple tourner à droite est permis (s'il n'y a pas de véhicule venant de la gauche) ou autre exception à la signalétique par defaut des feux.
- il faut avoir un GPS avec mise à jour des infos traffic, si on roule à SPb , MSK ou autre grande ville. c'est vital pour MSK, notamment autour. En logiciel payant, je n'ai jamais vu mieux que Navitel (c'est russe). Mais en logiciel gratuit, Yandex Navigator est excellent. Pour les re-routages au vol en fonction du tarif, il faut bien sûr être connecté et pour cela, Megafon est excellent dans tout le nord, nord-ouest, grandes villes, MTS dans les grandes villes, Russie du sud et centrale.
Bonne route!
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces informations. En fait c'est pour faire Tcheboksary à Kazan en aller/retour. Encore merci.
Arvi pa
Bon courage pour la conduite en ville !
http://www.lasourisglobe-trotteuse.fr/
Des milliers de photos et plein de conseils d'une souris pour voyager low-cost en Europe et hors des sentiers battus
Des milliers de photos et plein de conseils d'une souris pour voyager low-cost en Europe et hors des sentiers battus
Moi pour la Coupe du Monde de Russie 2018 cette été j ai loué une voiture a Rostov sur le Don avec une compagnie broche a foin ou il fallait tout payer cash.La compagnie etait a l areoport et les gens parlent uniquement le russe ...j ai loué une Mazda 3 2011 ..elle etait tres propre, fonctionnait tres bien et le kilometrage etait illimité.je n ai eu aucun probleme et j avais juste mon permis de conduire quebecois et ils ne m ont demandé rien d autre.
au moment de remettre la voiture a l areoport de Rostov on a gardé mon depot de 100$ car on m a dit que j ai roulé une fois a 149 kmh ...et a quelque endroit j ai depassé la limite.Il y a un systeme de reperage qui indique partout ou tu vas avec l auto et toute les statistiques de vitesse.
Dans mon depot le gars m a dit ...on garde 20$ pour un lavage...oui on a roulé a la grosse campagne(Iesk) en mer d Azov et l exterieur de l auto avait de la boue. puis il a gardé le 80$ au cas ou il recevrait un constat d infraction par courrier un mois apres.
Il a dit rappelle nous dans un mois et demi et si on a pas eu d amende ont te rembourse..je n ai pas perdu de temps avec ca car pendant la Coupe du Monde c etait hyper difficile d avoir une auto et le prix etait moins cher que les grosses compagnies, de plus le monsieur etait super gentil avec nous.
De plus quelqu un m a dit ...je n ai pas verifié...mais il est possible qu il y a une camera a l interieur de la voiture qui filme quand la voiture est en marche.Si tu fait le con..on le sait!! loll
puis la Russie a beaucoup d accident.J en ai vu chaque jour.il faut etre tres prudent surtout aux carefour giratoire c est malade.Il ne faut pas etre dans la lune dans les villes.
au moment de remettre la voiture a l areoport de Rostov on a gardé mon depot de 100$ car on m a dit que j ai roulé une fois a 149 kmh ...et a quelque endroit j ai depassé la limite.Il y a un systeme de reperage qui indique partout ou tu vas avec l auto et toute les statistiques de vitesse.
Dans mon depot le gars m a dit ...on garde 20$ pour un lavage...oui on a roulé a la grosse campagne(Iesk) en mer d Azov et l exterieur de l auto avait de la boue. puis il a gardé le 80$ au cas ou il recevrait un constat d infraction par courrier un mois apres.
Il a dit rappelle nous dans un mois et demi et si on a pas eu d amende ont te rembourse..je n ai pas perdu de temps avec ca car pendant la Coupe du Monde c etait hyper difficile d avoir une auto et le prix etait moins cher que les grosses compagnies, de plus le monsieur etait super gentil avec nous.
De plus quelqu un m a dit ...je n ai pas verifié...mais il est possible qu il y a une camera a l interieur de la voiture qui filme quand la voiture est en marche.Si tu fait le con..on le sait!! loll
puis la Russie a beaucoup d accident.J en ai vu chaque jour.il faut etre tres prudent surtout aux carefour giratoire c est malade.Il ne faut pas etre dans la lune dans les villes.
Moi pour la Coupe du Monde de Russie 2018 cette été j ai loué une voiture a Rostov sur le Don avec une compagnie broche a foin ou il fallait tout payer cash.
c'est le cas de la plupart des louageurs qui ne sont pas des franchises des gros groupes euro-américains.
j avais juste mon permis de conduire quebecois et ils ne m ont demandé rien d autre.
en cas d'accident leur assurance aurait pu leur créer une problème. Pour les contrôles de police, le permis international est obligatoire.
au moment de remettre la voiture a l areoport de Rostov on a gardé mon depot de 100$ car on m a dit que j ai roulé une fois a 149 kmh ...et a quelque endroit j ai depassé la limite.
et oui! les caméras-radars partout ...
Il y a un systeme de reperage qui indique partout ou tu vas avec l auto et toute les statistiques de vitesse.
c'est courant dorénavant avec les louageurs: GPS de traçage intégré dans la voiture
puis la Russie a beaucoup d accident.J en ai vu chaque jour.il faut etre tres prudent surtout aux carefour giratoire c est malade.Il ne faut pas etre dans la lune dans les villes.
Si tu as roulé dans et autour de Rostov lors du Mondial, tu as pu apprécier les longues queues, et aussi le fait d'être coincé sur le mauvais couloir de circulation en raison de l'absence de présignalisation, et devoir donc faire un tour de "manège" additionnel pour repasser et se mettre dans le bon couloir..
il y a beaucoup d'accident, mais relativement au traffic et à la vitesse moyenne élevée, pas tant que ça. Ça roule très vite en général, et certains axes et périphériques urbains sont très denses en traffic. Les canadiens et québécois, de ce que j'ai expérimenté en roulant dans Montréal et entre Montréal et Ottowa, Montréal et le Charlevoix, roulent comme des veaux 🙂 D'un autre côté, les automobilistes russes sont très attentifs, à la route, à ce qui se passe dans leurs rétroviseurs de chaque côté et derrière, en général tolérants et polis avec les autos en plaques étrangères (mais lorsque tu loues une voiture locale tu es en plaques russes ...), compétents en fonction de la météo (neige, glace, très grosses pluies, brouillards).
en ville il est vrai qu'il faut avoir quatre yeux, et rester attentif à la bande de circulation de droite, car c'est là que les bus et marshroutka s'arrêtent inopinément et repartent de même aux arrêts bus, et que les automobilistes je-m'en-foutistes s'arrêtent en double file pour acheter qqchose sur le côté. Se trouver coincé derrière un bus et ne pas pouvoir déboiter pour dépasser car ça roule à cent à l'heure sur le couloir d'à-côté c'est désagréable. Plein de petites choses comme ça 🙂 Mais ça va encore. Pour se faire des émotions ou avoir envie de commettre un crime faut rouler dans Bichkek, au Kyrgyzstan, voire même à Almaty au Kazakhstan. 😏
c'est le cas de la plupart des louageurs qui ne sont pas des franchises des gros groupes euro-américains.
j avais juste mon permis de conduire quebecois et ils ne m ont demandé rien d autre.
en cas d'accident leur assurance aurait pu leur créer une problème. Pour les contrôles de police, le permis international est obligatoire.
au moment de remettre la voiture a l areoport de Rostov on a gardé mon depot de 100$ car on m a dit que j ai roulé une fois a 149 kmh ...et a quelque endroit j ai depassé la limite.
et oui! les caméras-radars partout ...
Il y a un systeme de reperage qui indique partout ou tu vas avec l auto et toute les statistiques de vitesse.
c'est courant dorénavant avec les louageurs: GPS de traçage intégré dans la voiture
puis la Russie a beaucoup d accident.J en ai vu chaque jour.il faut etre tres prudent surtout aux carefour giratoire c est malade.Il ne faut pas etre dans la lune dans les villes.
Si tu as roulé dans et autour de Rostov lors du Mondial, tu as pu apprécier les longues queues, et aussi le fait d'être coincé sur le mauvais couloir de circulation en raison de l'absence de présignalisation, et devoir donc faire un tour de "manège" additionnel pour repasser et se mettre dans le bon couloir..
il y a beaucoup d'accident, mais relativement au traffic et à la vitesse moyenne élevée, pas tant que ça. Ça roule très vite en général, et certains axes et périphériques urbains sont très denses en traffic. Les canadiens et québécois, de ce que j'ai expérimenté en roulant dans Montréal et entre Montréal et Ottowa, Montréal et le Charlevoix, roulent comme des veaux 🙂 D'un autre côté, les automobilistes russes sont très attentifs, à la route, à ce qui se passe dans leurs rétroviseurs de chaque côté et derrière, en général tolérants et polis avec les autos en plaques étrangères (mais lorsque tu loues une voiture locale tu es en plaques russes ...), compétents en fonction de la météo (neige, glace, très grosses pluies, brouillards).
en ville il est vrai qu'il faut avoir quatre yeux, et rester attentif à la bande de circulation de droite, car c'est là que les bus et marshroutka s'arrêtent inopinément et repartent de même aux arrêts bus, et que les automobilistes je-m'en-foutistes s'arrêtent en double file pour acheter qqchose sur le côté. Se trouver coincé derrière un bus et ne pas pouvoir déboiter pour dépasser car ça roule à cent à l'heure sur le couloir d'à-côté c'est désagréable. Plein de petites choses comme ça 🙂 Mais ça va encore. Pour se faire des émotions ou avoir envie de commettre un crime faut rouler dans Bichkek, au Kyrgyzstan, voire même à Almaty au Kazakhstan. 😏
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces informations. En fait c'est pour faire Tcheboksary à Kazan en aller/retour. Encore merci.
de rien 🙂. Tcheboksary-Kazan c'est une toute petite distance. Dans l'autre sens, càd. a/r depuis Kazan, il est fort possible qu'il y ait un Hertz, Avis, Europcar, etc, mais à Tcheboksary ça m'étonnerait. La M7 a un traffic dense, mais roule bien, chaussées souvent séparées. Les accès de Kazan ont été refaits pour le Mondial de foot, on arrive aisément pas loin du kremlin et on peut même trouver à se garer assez près. (c'est l'été dernier que je roulais par là la dernière fois, avant et après un séjour d'un mois à Yékatérinbourg).
de rien 🙂. Tcheboksary-Kazan c'est une toute petite distance. Dans l'autre sens, càd. a/r depuis Kazan, il est fort possible qu'il y ait un Hertz, Avis, Europcar, etc, mais à Tcheboksary ça m'étonnerait. La M7 a un traffic dense, mais roule bien, chaussées souvent séparées. Les accès de Kazan ont été refaits pour le Mondial de foot, on arrive aisément pas loin du kremlin et on peut même trouver à se garer assez près. (c'est l'été dernier que je roulais par là la dernière fois, avant et après un séjour d'un mois à Yékatérinbourg).
Bonjour
La police russe est équipée...Un ami ayant brulé un feu rouge s'est fait arrêté et a voulu jouer à l'idiot.
Le policier a demandé : anglais , français. Après la réponse, il a mis le traducteur sur le gsm.
Cela devient difficile de faire l'idiot
Patrick
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Hi there, 🙂
I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).
I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.
I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.
My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.
From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.
Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?
---/---
About crossing between the two countries:
- On foot - In a rental car
Quick? Easy?
---/---
Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)
---/---
Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?
A 4x4 or something else?
Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?
I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉
Thanks for your answers !
I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).
I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.
I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.
My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.
From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.
Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?
---/---
About crossing between the two countries:
- On foot - In a rental car
Quick? Easy?
---/---
Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)
---/---
Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?
A 4x4 or something else?
Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?
I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉
Thanks for your answers !
Bonjour à tous,
Mon compagnon et moi préparons un voyage de 3 semaines au Kazakhstan au mois d'août et nous aimerions avoir vos avis pour affiner notre itinéraire.
Nous pensons consacrer une première partie du voyage à la région d'Almaty, avec notamment les sites suivants :
Singing Barkhan (dune chantante)
Altyn-Emel National Park
Charyn Canyon National Park
Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (lacs de la vallée de la rivière Kensu)
éventuellement le parc national d'Ile-Alatau
Dans un second temps, nous aimerions découvrir la région de Mangystau, autour d'Aktau, avec notamment :
Airakty
Tuzbair Salt Lake
Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")
Gora Bokty
Bozzhyra
Three Brothers Peaks
Nous envisageons de louer un 4x4 dans chacune de ces régions et nous avons plusieurs questions :
Auriez-vous des loueurs de 4x4 fiables à recommander, aussi bien dans la région d'Almaty que dans celle d'Aktau/Mangystau ?
J'ai lu que la région de Mangystau peut être extrêmement chaude en août. Pensez-vous qu'il vaut vraiment mieux commencer par Almaty puis terminer par Aktau pour esperer avoir des temperatures plus cléments (moins extremes😛)? Dans notre cas, faire l'inverse serait plus simple au niveau des vols internationaux et du vol intérieur, et aussi nettement moins cher.
Concernant les lieux listés ci-dessus, y a-t-il selon vous des incontournables à ajouter ou au contraire certains sites qui valent moins le détour ?
Plus généralement, avez-vous des conseils pratiques pour un voyage de 3 semaines au Kazakhstan en août (état des pistes, autonomie en carburant, réservations, météo, sécurité, etc.) ?
Merci beaucoup pour vos retours et vos conseils ! Ps : Nous avons l'habitude de voyager en autonomie et de conduire des 4x4 dans des conditions parfois exigeantes (Namibie, Tanzanie, Bolivie – Sud Lipez, Chili, etc.) et nous sommes également de bons marcheurs, habitués aux treks en autonomie (Patagonie, Huayhuash, Three Peaks au Népal, entre autres). Nous précisons cela simplement pour situer notre niveau d’autonomie sur ce type de voyage.
Singing Barkhan (dune chantante)
Altyn-Emel National Park
Charyn Canyon National Park
Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (lacs de la vallée de la rivière Kensu)
éventuellement le parc national d'Ile-Alatau
Dans un second temps, nous aimerions découvrir la région de Mangystau, autour d'Aktau, avec notamment :
Airakty
Tuzbair Salt Lake
Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")
Gora Bokty
Bozzhyra
Three Brothers Peaks
Nous envisageons de louer un 4x4 dans chacune de ces régions et nous avons plusieurs questions :
Auriez-vous des loueurs de 4x4 fiables à recommander, aussi bien dans la région d'Almaty que dans celle d'Aktau/Mangystau ?
J'ai lu que la région de Mangystau peut être extrêmement chaude en août. Pensez-vous qu'il vaut vraiment mieux commencer par Almaty puis terminer par Aktau pour esperer avoir des temperatures plus cléments (moins extremes😛)? Dans notre cas, faire l'inverse serait plus simple au niveau des vols internationaux et du vol intérieur, et aussi nettement moins cher.
Concernant les lieux listés ci-dessus, y a-t-il selon vous des incontournables à ajouter ou au contraire certains sites qui valent moins le détour ?
Plus généralement, avez-vous des conseils pratiques pour un voyage de 3 semaines au Kazakhstan en août (état des pistes, autonomie en carburant, réservations, météo, sécurité, etc.) ?
Merci beaucoup pour vos retours et vos conseils ! Ps : Nous avons l'habitude de voyager en autonomie et de conduire des 4x4 dans des conditions parfois exigeantes (Namibie, Tanzanie, Bolivie – Sud Lipez, Chili, etc.) et nous sommes également de bons marcheurs, habitués aux treks en autonomie (Patagonie, Huayhuash, Three Peaks au Népal, entre autres). Nous précisons cela simplement pour situer notre niveau d’autonomie sur ce type de voyage.
Estonians have become real pests at the Narva border control.
EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:
https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony
Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.
https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana
Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...
EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:
https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony
Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.
https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana
Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...
Since last year, the unification of the Russian visa with Belarus has been in effect.
For reference, EU citizens haven’t needed a visa for Belarus for two years. However, it wasn’t possible to travel to Russia. Only Belarusian and Russian citizens could move freely within the union.
With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.
In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.
This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.
It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.
So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.
This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.
The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.
Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.
Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html
These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.
With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.
In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.
This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.
It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.
So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.
This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.
The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.
Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.
Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html
These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.
Hello,
Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:
Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €
Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:
Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €
Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Hi there,
I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...
So I’m wondering how it all works?
You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏
But after that?
I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.
If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊
Thanks! 🙂
I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...
So I’m wondering how it all works?
You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏
But after that?
I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.
If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊
Thanks! 🙂
Hi there! 🙂
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I was lucky enough to spend two stays in Tajikistan between October and November 2025. I met Fayziddin, who’s a French-speaking guide and very knowledgeable—he really knows how to share his love for his country and his valley. He’ll welcome you to his village and, in the future, to a hostel that’s currently under construction. I can’t recommend him enough!
Hi there,
We’re planning to explore Uzbekistan this summer (with the weather constraints that come with it). Our itinerary includes the three classic cities plus a few side trips here and there. We still have one week left that we’d like to dedicate to hiking. We were thinking of heading to Kyrgyzstan, but I’m open to other suggestions if we stay in Uzbekistan. Thanks!
Hi everyone!
I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.
We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.
The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.
We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.
I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.
As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.
Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!
We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.
I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!
I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.
We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.
The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.
We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.
I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.
As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.
Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!
We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.
I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!
Hi there,
After making good use of the tips on this site, I’m now adding my own contribution.
We’ve just returned from 25 days exploring Mongolia.
A trip that took us from the capital to the Gobi Desert, from the ancient capital Karakhorum to the Orkhon Valley, and also off the beaten path to places close to nature and nomadic life, all thanks to our guide Hacha.
I’m used to traveling as a couple or solo, in "backpacker" mode, and I rarely—or only occasionally—hire a guide. But this time, I have to admit that choosing a guide-interpreter and a driver was an excellent idea.
We set off as a group of four to share the costs. I’d spoken with Hacha, a Mongolian who used to work at the French Alliance, speaks perfect French, and has been organizing trips for over 25 years.
Needless to say, she knows her job inside out and has built strong relationships with nomadic families over the years. Since she only works with small groups, she can steer clear of the main tourist spots. With her help, we were able to personalize our itinerary—and even adjust it as we went along. For example, we’d planned to attend the Naadam festival in a small town, but we found out there was another festival two days later that wasn’t on the schedule. So we tweaked our route to catch both, and we didn’t regret it.
Anyway, if you’d like more details or Hacha’s contact info, feel free to reach out.
I took a few days to get some fresh air outside the Schengen-NATO prison. Between March 18, 2026, and March 25, 2026, as shown by the passport stamps:
Borisoglebsk is the Russian border checkpoint after Kirkenes, on the road to Murmansk.
Kirkenes is a tiny town with a correspondingly small airport. Nothing has changed there: the minibuses to Murmansk wait on the right as you exit the airport. They’re synchronized with the two daily flights from Oslo—the SAS around 11:00 AM and Norwegian around 11:30 AM. They stop in Kirkenes at the corner of the Scandic for an hour, where other passengers can board, then head straight to the nearby border.
This is the least hassle Frontex/Schengen border. The Norwegian agent quickly scans your passport, and that’s it. No customs, since Norway is Schengen but not in the EU. On the Russian side, there’s a passport check and a quick customs inspection. All in all, crossing both the Norwegian and Russian checkpoints takes about 15 minutes.
A paper visa is required; e-visas aren’t accepted.
Two companies run the route: Avto Ekspress and Borodin: https://ae51.ru/routes/kirkenes-murmansk/ https://borodinbus.com/
The one-way fare is 5,500 ₽. You can either buy it online in rubles with a MIR card or make a formal reservation and pay in NOK cash to the driver. I took Borodin, and the price in NOK was much more expensive than in ₽.
=========================
On March 25, I left from Pskov via the Estonian border post at Luhaama. I spent three days in Murmansk, flew to St. Petersburg (SPB), stayed there for two days, then took an evening train to Pskov.
Since the end of February—and reportedly until the end of May—the Estonians have restricted the opening hours of the two border crossings near Pskov: Koidula (Pechory on the Russian side) and Luhaama (Izborsk on the Russian side). They’re closed at night between 7:00 PM and 7:00 AM. Right now, there’s a bus from Pskov at 7:00 AM to the border. It drops you off at the end of the road where truckers—many Kazakh and Serbian—are parked on the side. You finish the rest on foot to the barrier, where there’s a quick initial check for Ukrainian stamps in passports. Then you walk to the customs building, followed by passport control at the kiosk for motorists. After that, it’s a 500-meter walk to the Estonian checkpoint. At the moment, things seem calmer. Passport control is quick. The usual silly questions in English: "Where were you? Where are you going?" I just gave my most clueless smile: "Sorry, I don’t understand." Yeah, right—I don’t speak English, especially not at an Estonian border with a French passport. If they’re in a mood, though... A very quick bag inspection. Once you exit the Estonian post, walk to the bus stop sign by the road where another coach takes you to Riga.
The catch: in my case, last Wednesday, there were two passengers (Russians) with old Ukrainian stamps in their passports. The bus from the Estonian post to Riga was supposed to leave around 9:30 AM. We ended up leaving around noon after the two were grilled by the FSB. Since it was a weekday outside of holidays, the bus was half-empty. The fuller the bus and the more people with Ukrainian stamps, the worse the nightmare. Don’t book a same-day flight from Riga. I had a flight at 6:00 PM, so it worked out.
=============
The Kirkenes-Murmansk route is still clearly the easiest and fastest. But it’s not the most convenient since it’s way up north.
Next, I’d say the Gdansk-Kaliningrad route in the middle of the week. Avoid weekends and holiday departures/returns.
Avoid the Narva-Ivangorod route during Christmas, Easter, May 9, and *all* summer.
==============
About flights from Murmansk to St. Petersburg: prices are good. I bought my ticket the day before departure on Rossiya for 7,500 ₽, including 10 kg of luggage + a handbag.
It’s the tail end of the northern lights season, and there were still crowds of Chinese tourists.
By the way, Murmansk is twinned with Harbin:
Chinese tourists are the largest foreign group, followed by Indians, then a mix of others from the Far East, Turks, Arabs, etc. Brochures are bilingual—Russian and Chinese:
============================
But let’s talk practical stuff. --
My domestic SIM card was restricted for SMS and internet for 24 hours. After that, if you want to keep using SMS, don’t turn off your phone—restarting triggers another 24-hour purgatory.
My Russian SIM cards (Megafon, MTS, Beeline) were activated as soon as I logged into their respective apps with my credentials.
Internet --
Telegram is heavily slowed down by authorities. To use it, you need to connect through proxy servers, which you load into the latest version of the app. Traffic is then rerouted internally within Telegram to servers outside Russia (Germany, Poland, Sweden, etc.). You can find these proxies on various channels. One is ChatVPN—check their website too.
For general internet use, like browsing the web, VPNs that work right now use the VLESS protocol. You can find several on Telegram by searching "VPN." A few free days, then payment in rubles or crypto.
Rozkomnadzor’s team are experts at this, so things can change. It’s a constant cat-and-mouse game.
Pskov is a special case. The city is near Estonia and has a large military base. Depending on NATO drone swarms launched from the Baltics, Wi-Fi can be completely suspended except for the most essential mobile apps. The drone swarms use the 4G network, and the powerful electronic jamming and drone suppression systems cause periods without Wi-Fi—including in hotels. Wired connections aren’t affected.
Borisoglebsk is the Russian border checkpoint after Kirkenes, on the road to Murmansk.
Kirkenes is a tiny town with a correspondingly small airport. Nothing has changed there: the minibuses to Murmansk wait on the right as you exit the airport. They’re synchronized with the two daily flights from Oslo—the SAS around 11:00 AM and Norwegian around 11:30 AM. They stop in Kirkenes at the corner of the Scandic for an hour, where other passengers can board, then head straight to the nearby border.
This is the least hassle Frontex/Schengen border. The Norwegian agent quickly scans your passport, and that’s it. No customs, since Norway is Schengen but not in the EU. On the Russian side, there’s a passport check and a quick customs inspection. All in all, crossing both the Norwegian and Russian checkpoints takes about 15 minutes.
A paper visa is required; e-visas aren’t accepted.
Two companies run the route: Avto Ekspress and Borodin: https://ae51.ru/routes/kirkenes-murmansk/ https://borodinbus.com/
The one-way fare is 5,500 ₽. You can either buy it online in rubles with a MIR card or make a formal reservation and pay in NOK cash to the driver. I took Borodin, and the price in NOK was much more expensive than in ₽.
=========================
On March 25, I left from Pskov via the Estonian border post at Luhaama. I spent three days in Murmansk, flew to St. Petersburg (SPB), stayed there for two days, then took an evening train to Pskov.
Since the end of February—and reportedly until the end of May—the Estonians have restricted the opening hours of the two border crossings near Pskov: Koidula (Pechory on the Russian side) and Luhaama (Izborsk on the Russian side). They’re closed at night between 7:00 PM and 7:00 AM. Right now, there’s a bus from Pskov at 7:00 AM to the border. It drops you off at the end of the road where truckers—many Kazakh and Serbian—are parked on the side. You finish the rest on foot to the barrier, where there’s a quick initial check for Ukrainian stamps in passports. Then you walk to the customs building, followed by passport control at the kiosk for motorists. After that, it’s a 500-meter walk to the Estonian checkpoint. At the moment, things seem calmer. Passport control is quick. The usual silly questions in English: "Where were you? Where are you going?" I just gave my most clueless smile: "Sorry, I don’t understand." Yeah, right—I don’t speak English, especially not at an Estonian border with a French passport. If they’re in a mood, though... A very quick bag inspection. Once you exit the Estonian post, walk to the bus stop sign by the road where another coach takes you to Riga.
The catch: in my case, last Wednesday, there were two passengers (Russians) with old Ukrainian stamps in their passports. The bus from the Estonian post to Riga was supposed to leave around 9:30 AM. We ended up leaving around noon after the two were grilled by the FSB. Since it was a weekday outside of holidays, the bus was half-empty. The fuller the bus and the more people with Ukrainian stamps, the worse the nightmare. Don’t book a same-day flight from Riga. I had a flight at 6:00 PM, so it worked out.
=============
The Kirkenes-Murmansk route is still clearly the easiest and fastest. But it’s not the most convenient since it’s way up north.
Next, I’d say the Gdansk-Kaliningrad route in the middle of the week. Avoid weekends and holiday departures/returns.
Avoid the Narva-Ivangorod route during Christmas, Easter, May 9, and *all* summer.
==============
About flights from Murmansk to St. Petersburg: prices are good. I bought my ticket the day before departure on Rossiya for 7,500 ₽, including 10 kg of luggage + a handbag.
It’s the tail end of the northern lights season, and there were still crowds of Chinese tourists.
By the way, Murmansk is twinned with Harbin:
Chinese tourists are the largest foreign group, followed by Indians, then a mix of others from the Far East, Turks, Arabs, etc. Brochures are bilingual—Russian and Chinese:
============================
But let’s talk practical stuff. --
My domestic SIM card was restricted for SMS and internet for 24 hours. After that, if you want to keep using SMS, don’t turn off your phone—restarting triggers another 24-hour purgatory.
My Russian SIM cards (Megafon, MTS, Beeline) were activated as soon as I logged into their respective apps with my credentials.
Internet --
Telegram is heavily slowed down by authorities. To use it, you need to connect through proxy servers, which you load into the latest version of the app. Traffic is then rerouted internally within Telegram to servers outside Russia (Germany, Poland, Sweden, etc.). You can find these proxies on various channels. One is ChatVPN—check their website too.
For general internet use, like browsing the web, VPNs that work right now use the VLESS protocol. You can find several on Telegram by searching "VPN." A few free days, then payment in rubles or crypto.
Rozkomnadzor’s team are experts at this, so things can change. It’s a constant cat-and-mouse game.
Pskov is a special case. The city is near Estonia and has a large military base. Depending on NATO drone swarms launched from the Baltics, Wi-Fi can be completely suspended except for the most essential mobile apps. The drone swarms use the 4G network, and the powerful electronic jamming and drone suppression systems cause periods without Wi-Fi—including in hotels. Wired connections aren’t affected.
Hi there,
I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;
Thanks!
Patrice
I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;
Thanks!
Patrice
Hello,
New year, new questions...😛
Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?
I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...
Thanks 🙂
New year, new questions...😛
Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?
I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...
Thanks 🙂
Hi,
Does anyone know if the travel agency "NOUVINI" in Tashkent still exists???
Or do you have another agency to recommend???
Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
Jean Pierre
Hi there,
We’re a group of 4 people who prefer to travel independently but also want to use local guides at different stages of our trip.
My question is: should we plan to hire a different guide for each stage, or just one guide for all the different legs? We’re planning to travel between stages either by taxi or public transport (train, plane…).
Our itinerary is pretty classic (3 weeks):
Visit Tashkent
Tashkent – Ferghana Valley (by train)
Explore the valley and return to Tashkent with a guide and taxi
Tashkent – Nukus (flight)
Nukus – Khiva by taxi + guide for Khiva visit
Khiva – Bukhara by taxi + guide for Bukhara visit
Bukhara – Lake Aydar Kul – Samarkand by taxi + guide for Samarkand
Samarkand – Tashkent (by train).
Is the cost reasonable for the transfers between stages? Also, I’m open to any suggestions or tips (recommended guides, etc.).
Thanks!
Bernard
Hi there,
I’d like to spend 2–3 days in the Korgaljyn area in May to photograph flamingos and other birds.
I’ll be in Astana and I’m looking for a tour that includes accommodation so I can stay for 2 days.
I’ve found the buses from Astana and info about the park’s facilities, but no accommodation or guided outings.
Has anyone done this?
Thanks for your help
Hi,
Did you attend the show at the Nadir Divan Begi Madrasa in Bukhara? What are the details for booking? Thanks in advance.
Have a great day and happy travels!
Danielle
Hi,
Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?
Thanks
Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?
Thanks
Hi everyone, happy to be back on VF!
I’ll be in Uzbekistan this coming April and will of course visit the three classics—Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. However, I’d also love to get out of these cities to explore the Uzbek countryside and experience its nature. Mountains, steppes, etc. Ideally, with some great hikes passing through villages. Any spots you’d recommend? Thanks in advance
Hi,
We were wondering if anyone has recently experienced the Tashkent / Fergana Valley route by bus or taxi?
We’re landing in Tashkent at 10:30 PM with our international flight. To head to Fergana the next day, the only trains available are very early in the morning or very late in the evening (arriving at 11:30 PM in Fergana). So, we’d like to avoid that mode of transport if possible to spend half a day in Tashkent and relax a bit.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re heading to Saint Petersburg from June 30 to July 7, 2026, and we’ll be arriving late (9 PM) at our hotel on June 30. Unfortunately, the hotel can’t pick us up from the train station. Is it easy to get a taxi at Saint Petersburg coach station?
Thanks for your help!
Hi,
We’d like to know if it’s easy to visit the Sarmych-Sai gorges from Bukhara as a day trip. Do homestays and hotels offer this?
Thanks
Hello,
We’re a senior couple planning to spend around 3 weeks in Uzbekistan, either starting at the end of March or mid-April. We’ll begin in Khiva (Urgench) and finish in Tashkent (via Termez). We prefer traveling independently as much as possible, at our own pace, and are considering hiring drivers for specific legs of our journey.
Here’s our rough itinerary:
4 nights in Khiva
4 in Bukhara
5 or 6 in Samarkand (we’d like to do a day trip to the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan)
2 in Termez
Then Tashkent and the Fergana Valley
2 in Tashkent
Does this seem balanced? Any suggestions? We’re not planning to go as far as the Aral Sea or stay in a yurt camp.
Is the weather favorable at the end of March (risk of rain)? Or would mid-April be better?
What’s the typical cost for a driver’s services?
Thank you in advance for any tips that could help us with our plans.
Andrea
Hi,
I just read the various discussions about the photo tax that’s being asked for in Uzbekistan, but that info is from 2016/2017. I’m leaving next week for Tashkent/Samarkand/Bukhara/Khiva, and I’ve been told a 50 USD tax is required for photos. I really get the feeling this is a "forced sale" and an exorbitant amount. Have any of you paid this tax recently? Thanks
Hi,
In two weeks, we’re arriving in Tashkent around 1 a.m. I don’t think my hotel accepts Mastercard—is it better to bring dollars to pay, or will I be able to withdraw some som there?
Same question: I don’t think I’ll be able to buy an eSIM at 1 a.m., but has anyone seen it done that late?
Thanks.
In two weeks, we’re arriving in Tashkent around 1 a.m. I don’t think my hotel accepts Mastercard—is it better to bring dollars to pay, or will I be able to withdraw some som there?
Same question: I don’t think I’ll be able to buy an eSIM at 1 a.m., but has anyone seen it done that late?
Thanks.
Hi everyone,
I’m landing at Urgench Airport at 7:10 AM and I’d like to get to Nukus, but I’m not sure how. There’s supposedly a bus (no. 748?), but I can’t find its schedule or departure point (airport, city center?). If any of you have done this route before, I’d love some info.
Have a great day
Hi there,
We're planning a trip from Astana to Dushanbe. By train across Kazakhstan, then using public transport in Kyrgyzstan (circling Lake Issyk-Kul) and Tajikistan, taking the northern route in the latter (from Khujand to Dushanbe).
Have any of you been to these regions recently, and what do you think about the safety aspect?
Thanks in advance! :)
Hi there,
After a long absence, I’m back on this forum where I used to post under the username NealMorse (mostly about off-the-beaten-path spots in the American West...).
I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).
One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!
Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).
One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!
Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
Hi there, we’re heading to Uzbekistan to explore the cities of Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent. Do you have any contact details for French- or English-speaking guides?
Thanks
EH