Biking (MTB) along the Canal between the Two Seas (France) (page 10 of 16)

Nothing is ever settled, it seems—the Quebec government no longer wants to maintain the cycling routes known as the Route Verte: http://www.velo.qc.ca/...emble-des-maintenant Provincial MPs seem more responsive to emails than our representatives and quicker to act. My message sent today: Hello, I live in southwestern France. I use my bicycle every day of the year to commute from home to work. I don’t deserve much credit since the trip is only 6 km in pleasant riding conditions. I also combine it with the train for work trips. I also go on cycling vacations. To inspire others and show how easy it is to travel hundreds of kilometers, I’ve shared accounts of my various trips on Voyage Forum: http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=1000920#10009...I discovered your beautiful country by covering 1,570 km on its Route Verte. I urge you to do everything in your power to preserve this wonderful tool for exploration using a sustainable mode of transport. Looking forward to your response, best regards. And here’s the reply I received the same day:

Hello Mr. Rouland,

Thank you for your interest in our beautiful Route Verte. We’re doing our best with stakeholders to keep this exceptional route intact in response to the government’s decision.

Thank you for your support, and I’d like to take this opportunity to wish you happy holidays.

Sincerely, Matthew L. Therrien | Political Attaché Gaspé MP’s Office 10, Boul. Ste-Anne Ouest | 1st floor, office I Ste-Anne-des-Monts (Quebec) G4V 1P3 Tel.: 418 763-2389 | Fax: 418 764-2709 |

Having a continuous 193 km paved cycle path along the Canal latéral à la Garonne is a real comfort for winter cycling. Beyond the popularity of this Voie Verte because it’s flat and car-free, it also keeps you away from the ruts that form on dirt paths. But that doesn’t mean there aren’t some traps.

While traveling from Malause with two friends, we reach Moissac, and as usual, I decide to continue along the Voie Verte via the banks of the Tarn (see photo). It starts as a dirt path, then becomes a cemented section. I don’t worry when this slab is later covered by a puddle of water. But as we keep going, it hides the mud beneath, making it harder and harder to move forward until we come to a complete stop. Forced to dismount under the applause of about a hundred high school students on a school trip watching us from the terrace of the mill. Our legs then sink into 30 cm of silt brought by a flood of the Tarn. Only the third cyclist avoids the trap by turning back.

Luckily, we find an outdoor tap at the Uvarium to clean ourselves up. Two of us end up riding back with our feet soaked in the cold. While this mishap might be funny for local cyclists, it would be much less so for long-distance travelers who don’t have the warmth of home to comfort them and would have to continue their journey freezing. I’m thinking, for example, of that young Australian I hosted who was trying to pitch his tent by the canal in the middle of winter. He had come from Toulouse and was heading to Bordeaux after already covering 14,000 km since the Silk Road before taking a boat from Roscoff to England, where he’d fly back to Australia a year after his departure.

I’ve asked the Moissac town hall on their website to consider closing the Tarn riverbank route when it’s impassable so cyclists can take the mill promenade instead.

But I haven’t received any response or seen any action taken.

I’ll write another email with photos to back it up.

Since I didn’t get a response to my second email, I sent a letter to the Mayor of Moissac. So far, I haven’t received any further reply. But I was pleasantly surprised to see that the Voie Verte along the Tarn riverbanks has been cleaned up (see photos). Remember, you can see the caption by hovering over the image. I’d like to think it’s thanks to my request... If I still don’t get a response, I’ll send a congratulatory email instead. I’ve noticed that, unlike with requests, you *do* get a reply when you send praise. The response was immediate when I congratulated the Créon town hall for their efforts to promote cycling http://www.terraeco.net/...-nez-dans,41992.html

"I’m still amazed that, in the fight against childhood obesity, we can enforce the weight of fries served in school cafeterias but not take steps to encourage cycling to school." Jean-Marie Darmian, Mayor of Créon.

As a generous donor to http://www.replantonslecanaldumidi.fr/fr, Voies Navigables de France invited me to meet a planting specialist in Marseillette on March 3rd. But that was the day I took possession of my recumbent tricycle in Toulouse. After renting a Scorpion HPVélotechnik six years ago http://voyageforum.com/...ost=3245557;#3245557 and an ICE trike two years ago http://voyageforum.com/...ost=5898281;#5898281, and after saving up, I placed an order with the Cyclable store. After the final adjustments, I head toward the Pont Neuf to cross the Garonne. From the first pedal strokes, a driver yells at me, saying that contraflow bike lanes aren’t made for vehicles like mine. It’s true that this one-way street is justified by the narrow roadway, which is just wide enough for us to pass each other (with parked cars). A young guy on the sidewalk immediately defends me, shouting: “I work in mechanics, and this is a bike!” He asks me to excuse the driver’s “behavior.” It’s funny how, behind the wheel of his tank, he complains that I take up too much space. Yet if most people in the city center walked or biked, space would multiply, and the silence would bring serenity. Maybe he’d even smile at me if he became a cyclist. Because even in Toulouse, a recumbent tricycle doesn’t go unnoticed—it sparks surprise, sympathy, even admiration. It’s true that being so low to the ground, less visible, and with limited visibility, you feel vulnerable in traffic. Add to that its width and high price, and you won’t see recumbent tricycles at every intersection. At least not as long as cities are designed primarily for cars.

I meet up with my student son, and we quickly reach the Canal du Midi to enjoy better conditions and get away from exhaust pipes that spew fumes right at nose level. Though the trike is suspended front and rear, a smooth surface is preferable since a recumbent is more sensitive to bumps, especially with 20-inch wheels. With the Rohloff system and its 14 gears in the hub, the triple chainring is unnecessary, so I only need to use a single twist shifter. The headrest adds to the comfort of the position, while disc brakes, mirrors, the dynamo, and the flag enhance the safety provided by the stability. See photos. I chose this German model for its technology, design, and build quality. It’s handcrafted, and I assume the workers are fairly paid. I wouldn’t want to contribute to the exploitation of the 12 million working poor in Germany. Barely has the minimum wage been introduced than it’s already being bypassed. For example, in slaughterhouses where many Turkish workers are employed, a 100 € rental fee for knife use is now deducted from their wages. While cycling the EuroVelo 6, I saw many industrial pig farms. Their buildings are covered with solar panels for electricity production, and the slurry feeds biogas plants—two forms of energy heavily subsidized by the state. Not content with these subsidies, slaughtering is outsourced to staff paid 4 €/hour to produce uniform, low-quality charcuterie across the country. And to flood the market with cheap pork. Breton farmers can hang on tight!

Wednesday, March 4th – Toulouse to Valence d’Agen: 90 km Despite the rain at 9:15 AM, I decide to leave my son’s apartment where I spent the night. The forecasted improvement for 10 AM doesn’t seem to be happening anytime soon. Oh well, I’ll just get my shiny new trike dirty. Equipped with my rain pants and cycling poncho, I dive into traffic. Quickly, I realize I can’t shift gears—the shifter turns but doesn’t engage the gearbox. Luckily, I’m near the shop. But I remember that Cyclable now opens only at 11 AM. Actually, by pressing the shifter in, it regains its function. It must be disengageable. I must have pulled it while lifting the bike to put it on the balcony. As its name suggests, the Scorpion folds by tucking the rear over the front. This lets you fit it in an elevator or car trunk, and I hope it’ll let me take it on the train. After Place Esquirol and Boulevard de Metz, I cross the Canal du Midi, remembering that after Gare Matabiau, the bike path is on the right bank. But I anticipated too soon and, going against the flow of cars, I’m forced to ride on the sidewalks. Which is less convenient with a trike due to its size. Sometimes it doesn’t fit between bollards or posts. Finally, I find the Greenway, and it’s already past 10 AM when I reach the city limits. The rain has stopped, and I can stow my rain gear for the day. At the twin bridges, I leave the Canal du Midi for the lateral canal to the Garonne. I’m off for 90 km of continuous, flat bike path with no motorized vehicles. I progress serenely along the old towpath. Without having to balance, I could almost dip my hand in the water. The sky clears, but the headwind forecasted by the weather increases with the sunshine. For the first time in my life, I eat a lollipop while biking. (I’m not at risk of falling.) I must admit I never buy them—I got this one in a picnic bag prepared by a Spanish hostel: a tasteless piece of baguette with chorizo, a sort of Laughing Cow cheese I spread in the sandwich, a portion of some kind of jelly (almost as bad as the English kind), two small cartons of orange juice, and a Chupa Chups. I arrive too late in Montech to eat at the workers’ restaurant, and ongoing construction prevents me from skirting the port to reach the lockhouse restaurant I’d hoped to see reopen. I barely squeeze between a tree and an EDF truck and head to the center to eat a kebab. On my way back to the port, I see through the construction fencing people eating on the terrace of the lockhouse restaurant. Maybe it’s the staff? Is it reopened? I continue on my way, regretting not having asked that question sooner. (Later, I won’t find a phone number to get an answer.) After the water slope, the sun comes out, but so does the wind. I resign myself to progressing at only 10 or 12 km/h. I decide to put the smartphone my wife and kids gave me for my 55th birthday in my jacket pocket, and with earphones, for the first time, I pedal while listening to the radio. A recumbent tricycle is very different from an upright bike. Later, I’ll realize that putting my keys, phone, and wallet in the back pockets of my cycling jersey isn’t practical anymore—it hurts my back. It’s a bit like getting the Zoé. While I refused to do activities that required using a gas car (even starting it to go to the pool felt like a chore), with an electric car, I go to yoga on Mondays, gym on Tuesdays, table tennis on Wednesdays, choir on Thursdays, and ping-pong again on Fridays. On top of these evenings, I even sometimes travel for competitions (of course, I take teammates). What seemed like a heresy has become possible. Still, I’m not fooled—I know that manufacturing an EV is polluting and that any travel generates nuisances. While they seem much less harmful, I continue to walk and bike (and take the train) as much as possible, and we’ve only driven 8,000 km in a year with the Zoé, even though it’s very pleasant to drive and 100 km only costs 1 € in electricity (10 € in gas for our combustion car). At this snail’s pace and with my head at rest, I only arrive home at 6:30 PM. I just need to lift my headrest to glance in the mirrors. It seems impossible to adjust them to see both with my head straight and tilted… Oh! I almost forgot. The hardest part for me on this first day: Clicking my shoes into the clipless pedals—since my feet are so far forward, I can’t see where I’m placing the cleats. Maybe I would’ve struggled on my upright bike too? Because I’ve never used them before. Here, it’s almost essential—if my foot slips off the pedal, it hits the ground, and my leg hits the frame arm.

I got an invitation to watch a video about plane trees:

Hello,

You couldn’t make it to our field outings scheduled for March 3rd and 11th to meet our planting expert along the Canal du Midi. As agreed, you can download a 5-minute in-house mini-film that’ll give you more details about the project. We’re going to split this mini-film into several topics to share on social media and raise awareness among as many people as possible. Thanks for your interest in the canal, Mary

Mary Bonneaud Lagarde Sponsorship for Voies Navigables de France +33 5 61 36 24 56 Replantonslecanal.fr

I was surprised that this video didn’t clearly address the issue of plane tree vaccination. Here’s the very detailed response from VNF:

We can’t really talk about a "vaccine" that would cure sick trees. Here’s a summary of the two approaches we’re monitoring: 1. SUBTITREE · 4 students from UPS + 7 students from INSA came together at the initiative of Gilles Truan, a research fellow at the public laboratory LISBP (CNRS-INSA). · Gilles Truan proposes, every year, a team of Toulouse students to participate in the iGEM competition (International Genetically Engineered Machine competition). This is an international synthetic biology competition organized by MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology) in Boston (USA). · Among several projects, the students chose a biological control project against colored canker, which they named SUBTITREE. They created an association and worked in INSA’s facilities to develop the iGEM project. The iGEM competition was held by MIT in Boston from October 30 to November 2, 2014. It welcomed 245 student teams from around the world. The iGEM Toulouse team won a gold medal and received the award for the best experimental approach, placing the team among the top 20 worldwide. · The project started in January 2014 and ended in October 2014. Only Mathieu Fournié, a student at Paul Sabatier University, could extend the project with a PhD. · The goal: to create an alternative to prophylactic felling. Trees that are too affected must still be cut down. The proposed solution doesn’t regenerate already necrotic cells. However, for slightly affected trees or still healthy ones in outbreak areas, the solution aims to eventually treat the trees. · The principle: to modify a bacterium already present in the plane tree that produces molecules to fight the pathogen. This bacterium would be injected into the tree for a limited time and would die naturally. · We don’t talk about a "vaccine" in the SUBTITREE project because there’s no long-term immune response. It’s protection for a defined period. · The timeline: the PhD (which lasts at least 3 years) hasn’t started yet, so no practical application until the theory advances.

2. CETEV · In 2013, CETEV proposed to Voies Navigables de France (VNF) to experiment with a new micro-injection treatment method. VNF supports the project and contacted the Ministry of Agriculture, the competent authority on health matters, to learn the necessary steps. Indeed, an experiment of this type, involving a quarantine organism, can only be conducted under certain precautions. CETEV developed an initial research protocol that was sent to the ministry. · At the beginning of 2014, exchanges took place between the Ministry of Agriculture and CETEV. On February 16, 2014, CETEV sent the ministry the Phase 1 dossier, which proposed a list of products likely to be used in this experiment. · It seems the proposed protocol was approved by the ministry (see press information from February). CETEV hasn’t contacted VNF again yet. If approved, VNF confirmed its interest in experiments supporting research and limiting disease spread, and we’re ready to provide CETEV with a number of trees needed for the experiment. · The timeline: still very long—several years. Before experiments yield tangible and proven results on different trees where evolutions would be compared, and before moving from research to widespread treatment. Unfortunately, while waiting for progress, the fungus kills trees very quickly, and we must cut down dead trees to protect residents and try to limit the disease’s spread. We’re accelerating the replanting program with new species to restore the canal’s landscape as soon as possible. Thanks again for your support. I hope this research clarifies things for you. See you soon, Mary

I traveled to Rouen by train again to visit my parents. On a beautiful afternoon, I decided to walk into the city center to check out the new 360° panorama that was just built on the Seine quays. A few hundred meters past the botanical garden, I spotted an invitation to use the "pedibus" (see photo). Then I passed the Cy’clic station. The city encourages using its well-developed public transport network—trams and buses—to help reduce pollution. What’s more, Upper Normandy is determined to become France’s first eco-region. It offers up to 5000 € for purchasing an electric vehicle, on top of the 6300 € from the state. That’s up to 10000 € if you scrap an old diesel (too bad I never owned one). Now *that’s* an incentive: http://www.hautenormandie.fr/...our-les-particul.... I reached the quays where the cruise boat *Le Strasbourg* is docked. Like in Bordeaux, the quays are designed for strolling—though it’s a shame there are no ramps for bikes on the many bridges, just rails in the staircases. The old port warehouses have been turned into shops, like the *Marégraphe* brasserie, which also hosts events. It’s named after the tower that displays the tidal levels here, 60 km as the crow flies from the sea. Rouen marks the boundary between river and maritime navigation. The XXL Panorama was built nearby, just before the lifting bridge that lets tall ships parade through the heart of the city. http://www.panoramaxxl.com/ Bad luck—it’s closed on Mondays. But the reception was open, and I learned the elevator only goes up to the 2nd floor. You have to take the stairs to the terrace for the 360° view of the 100-meter circular scenery. The *Marégraphes* parking lot is free for visitors. Useful info for my mom, who needs a wheelchair to get around. I’ll go back the next day with my parents. For now, I explored the Dock 76 shopping center and the new sports palace: http://www.kindarena.fr/...ndarena/Presentation which, of course, was closed—no events were scheduled (not enough of a crowd to "jump into the arena").

I headed toward the pedestrian streets, guided by the cathedral spire, which I could clearly see about 2 km away. In the square, a cyclist was followed by a man on a tricycle—a Scorpion like mine, but black. Farther on, I took a photo of a young guy with a curious 10-seater vehicle. He offered to take me somewhere, so I pedaled along with him, though I didn’t change his route—he was picking up kids from school. Later, he’d take some to daycare and others to their activities for free. The kids were thrilled. There are only two of these Dutch-style cycles in France, and they’re in Rouen. It gave me hope that one day we might move away from car dependency and let our kids get around and breathe. I’m going to donate to the association. http://www.scoolbus.org/ Now I’m at city hall, a bit farther from my parents’ place. But I’m happy with my discoveries during this 15 km walk under the sun, veiled by the fine-particle haze. It’d help if it rained or if there was wind. Without either, Paris implemented alternate-day driving the following Monday due to the pollution peak…

While François Hollande surrounded himself with Mélanie Laurent and Marion Cotillard to call for climate action from Manila, one might wonder if COP 21 (the UN Conference on Climate Change in Paris—from November 30 to December 11, 2015) won’t just be a lot of hot air.

Since I never received a concrete response to my previous letter, I wrote again to Ségolène Royal:

To the Minister of Ecology, Sustainable Development, and Energy, Your ref: BDC/CCY/D/14016079/ML – Letter dated 09/29/14 Subject: Cycling and environmental protection.

Madam, Following the letter I sent you at the end of July 2014, your chief of staff forwarded my remarks to the interministerial coordinator for the development of cycling at your request. But eight months later, I still haven’t received a response. It seems your government is all talk on this issue. In the Energy Transition Law, the word "bike" appears over 100 times—but mostly in terms like "debikeing" or "debikement." Actual mentions of cycling are far fewer. There’s talk of tax breaks for companies providing bike fleets and secure parking at workplaces. But no large-scale plan for building cycling paths, bike routes, or train access. We can applaud the trial run of the bike mileage allowance. At the same time, I’m surprised by the push to open long-distance coach travel to competition. That’s not what we should be promoting—it’s trains. When will we realize that bikes and trains are the two key ways to make this transition happen? When I traveled to Lyon for work by bike—7 days and 700 km—http://voyageforum.com/...post=6005558#6005558 After a week of training, I boarded the return train at La Part-Dieu with my bike reservation, which cost 10 €. The new double-decker TGV had no bike spaces! I’ll be joining the climate march from Copenhagen to Paris: http://transeuropeenne.free.fr/...transeuropeenn... Due to Deutsche Bahn’s decision to stop overnight trains that accept bikes, it’s now very difficult to travel to Copenhagen with a bicycle. The same goes for Vienna, where I went last year by train to ride the EuroVelo 6 all the way to Nantes. Are they trying to push us to fly? It makes no sense to use a plane to advocate against climate change. For cyclists, turning a bike into carry-on luggage isn’t exactly easy. Especially when it’s already loaded with panniers. SNCF should equip its trains with cars that allow easy level boarding from the platform via wide doors. Congratulations on the Electric Vehicle Plan, with a state incentive of 6,300 €—or even 10,000 € if you scrap an old diesel (too bad I never owned one). It’s a great incentive, especially when regions like Haute-Normandie add another 5,000 €. I was one of the first to get 7,000 € toward a Zoe, but I couldn’t get anything from Midi-Pyrénées. But we also—and above all—need to learn to move away from car dependency. Instead of leaving municipalities to manage pseudo-extracurricular activities, we should create positions for sports educators integrated into the school schedule. Their mission, beyond sports, would be to organize walking and cycling school buses. It’s not right that these healthy transport options are so rarely implemented and rely on volunteers, for example: http://www.scoolbus.org/ Every primary school child should, during their schooling, take part in a bike tour of their department (unless we want to do away with this democratic level). This school trip would be tied to an educational project, starting with exploring their town on foot and then by bike—learning about the environment and civic responsibility, respecting community rules. It’s our duty to ensure future generations don’t live the nightmare depicted here: https://www.youtube.com/...ed&v=gAethD1Io_Y Example of pedagogy: http://www.velo.qc.ca/...-cyclistes-de-demain

I trust you’ll take the necessary steps to protect the environment and improve our quality of life together. Looking forward to your response, Madam Minister, please accept my respectful regards.

HPV, the manufacturer of my trike, recommends the first service covered by the dealer after just 300 km. Even though March was rainy, I quickly reached that milestone since the round trip from Toulouse to Valence d’Agen adds 180 km to the odometer.

I booked an appointment with Cyclable and asked a friend to join me to Toulouse. We meet up on April 8th at 9 AM in Malause. Our first stop is at the Port Jean-Yves Cousteau in Castelsarrasin to refill my water bottle, which I’d initially filled with rosemary tea to warm us up. Construction work to widen the canal is underway nearby, including sheet pile installation and ramp construction (see photos).

We arrive in Montech just before noon. The bike path runs right past, and I’m thrilled the restaurant by the port has reopened. I invite my friend to check it out: http://www.maisonconstant.com/bistrot-constant/ We enjoy lunch on the sunny terrace, though the wind is still chilly. I learn it’s only been open for four months: http://www.ladepeche.fr/...istrot-constant.html

When I mention I’m surprised there’s no connection to the lockkeeper’s house, the staff explain the management avoided any association with the old restaurant’s poor reputation—even going so far as to avoid referencing the enchanting site in the establishment’s name. That’s why my online searches a month ago came up empty. I love this little port in Montech and predict the restaurant will be a hit once the warmer weather and tourists arrive. Especially since Montech is the intersection point for the canal from Montauban and has a water slope.

But we still have 50 km ahead, and the headwind won’t let up until the end. It’s coming from the southeast. While it brings good weather, it doesn’t make our ride any easier. We swap bikes for a few kilometers, and my friend enjoys the recumbent trike for digestion.

On this Wednesday, many young people are training—there are several rowing clubs along the canal. A camaraderie forms between those gliding over the water and those of us rolling along the towpath. We’re much faster than them, but it’s still 5:30 PM by the time we reach the Cyclable store in central Toulouse after 93 km.

The workshop is reserved for me the next day from 10 AM to noon. As planned, I leave my trike overnight. They also agree to store the MTB, which reduces theft risks since we’ll be staying at my son’s place. It’s more convenient to be on foot together. I forgot my pannier strap, so I improvise one with the bungee cords I always keep in the trunk.

We cross the Pont Neuf, which offers a view of the Bazacle—a dam, free visitor site, and exhibition space: http://bazacle.edf.com/ It’s also what Quebecers call a "heritage interpretation" site: In sustainable development, heritage interpretation is a tool for translating historical sites.

We arrive at Allée Charles de Fitte, where, near my son’s place, there are two charging stations and four parking spots reserved for electric vehicles: http://fr.chargemap.com/...es-de-fitte-toulouse I’ve never biked from Valence d’Agen to Toulouse (90 km) for fear of not being able to recharge. Yet it’s ideal to have two charging stations just 200 meters from the apartment I rent for my son.

But access is impossible, as Chargemap users confirm. Every time, I’ve also noticed the four spots are occupied by gas-powered vehicles. Same today—no fines, no towing (even though two trucks are nearby). However, the fifth vehicle next to them has a ticket on its windshield (see photos). I have a revelation: law enforcement fined that car because it’s parked in a motorcycle spot, and they could tell it wasn’t a motorcycle. They don’t fine the diesel and gasoline cars because they don’t realize they’re not EVs. It’s tricky! Especially since hybrids exist too!!!

Plus, users say these charging stations aren’t operational. That’s why, even though I loaded 20 € onto the Kiwhi Pass card Renault gave me: http://www.kiwhipass.fr/ I haven’t used it yet. I’m waiting for warmer weather to try it out, in case I have to sleep in the car while waiting for Renault assistance.

I could’ve fit the Scorpion in the Zoe’s trunk to come for this service, but it never occurred to me to drive 180 km in our gas-powered Picasso, even though the trunk is bigger. Since we got the Zoe, our annual mileage has dropped from 12,000 to 7,500 km, and our average fuel consumption has gone from 8.3 to 7.7 liters of SP95E10 per 100 km—since we now avoid even more short trips with it.

After my son treated us to a Carbonara pasta dinner and we enjoyed a restful night in his quiet neighborhood, we’re getting ready to join the demonstration that starts on April 9th at 10 AM in Place Arnaud Bertrand. It’s on the opposite side of town, but we’ve got plenty of time to walk there. This time, we take the Pont Saint-Pierre. It leads straight to the Nougaro mural http://ville.france.free.fr/...os/maxi/DSCN2522..... Then we pass by the Saint-Sernin Basilica. We go inside, but viewing the artworks isn’t allowed during a service. On our way out, we stumble upon the Bourse du Travail, where CGT activists are preparing two vehicles. The UMP-run city hall is trying to evict the organization, which has occupied the space for free for 120 years: http://france3-regions.francetvinfo.fr/...cipali... On top of that, there’s a 15% hike in local taxes. Maybe this is how the city is preparing to become the capital of the new Occitanie region (Midi-Pyrénées Languedoc-Roussillon). I can just picture the faces of the people from Montpellier. It’s also Jean-Luc Moudenc, Mayor and President of Toulouse Métropole, who cut the subsidy for buying an electric bike (VAE): http://www.voixdumidi.fr/...ectriques-43775.html It was thanks to a similar subsidy from the Rouen urban area that my 88-year-old dad was able to buy a Matra VAE, which still lets him keep cycling. Luckily, others are stepping up to promote them: http://www.avem.fr/...ntreprises-5632.html Every time we can replace a car trip with a bike ride, it feels like a win. That’s what the previous left-wing municipal team had in mind. But not everyone’s pedaling in the same direction. It makes you wonder how the Socialist Party (PS) can back the Macron law, which leans toward liberalism. On closer inspection, it’s heavily inspired by the Attali Commission, set up at President Sarkozy’s request—and the rapporteur was none other than Emmanuel Macron. Yet he’d seemed sincere and convincing on *Des Paroles et des Actes*.

We’re still early for the protest’s start, which mainly brings together workers from struggling local companies like JOB, whose truck scatters rolling paper sheets along the route. As I’d hoped, the march takes us to Place du Capitole: http://www.touleco.fr/...ite-a-Toulouse,16301 Right near the Cyclable shop. The mechanic finishes adjusting my tricycle on the bench, then takes it for a test ride around the neighborhood. Later, I’ll notice he put oil on the long chain. The salesperson had recommended a dry Teflon-based lube, which I’d bought—and the two aren’t compatible!

We’re in too much of a rush to get to Matabiau station to miss our 1:14 PM train. Especially since the young salesperson doesn’t exactly inspire confidence. Even though his TGV arrives in Toulouse 10 minutes early, he realizes the bike compartment he reserved is at the other end of the train. It takes him 10 minutes to push through the crowded platform. A TGV set is 250 meters long—500 when doubled. Moving at 3 km/h while pushing a bike through a two-way crowd and jostling for space at the train doors isn’t bad, stress-wise either.

My situation’s different since I’m taking a regional express train. The question is whether the Scorpion will fit through the door if it’s an old Corail carriage with a narrow entrance. When my friend worried about our return trip in the afternoon, I suggested taking the train to Montauban (50 km) and showing him the Montech canal: http://voyageforum.com/...post=5034626#5034626

After buying our tickets and sandwiches, we head outside the station to the platform where TER trains to Valence d’Agen usually depart. A conductor near a TGV confirms it. But 20 minutes before departure, the train is announced on platform 4 with a 10-minute delay. Due to the morning strike, they’re using a train coming from Carcassonne. Damn strikers and protesters (just kidding). This is less funny because we might only have 2 minutes to board. Plus, there’s no ramp or elevator—we’ll have to carry the Scorpion down the stairs to cross under the tracks. Luckily, we’re two for this first attempt. We might even have to remove the seat and fold the Scorpion. On the platform, passengers are crowding in. I’ve already counted four bikes, including ours, and my friend adds a scooter. A staff member tells me it’ll be a recent TER (made by Bombardier). Phew! No problem getting the tricycle through the wide, level-access door. Thanks to the region for funding these trains.

We even manage to hook it by the rear wheel like a regular bike. Sitting next to it, we dig into our lunch right away—we’ve only got a 30-minute trip. In theory, at least, because the train gets stuck indefinitely at Castelnau d’Estrétefonds due to the train ahead having mechanical issues. We consider hopping off and taking the towpath along the Garonne lateral canal, which we can see. SNCF staff joke that we should bike instead in this nice weather. We finish our meal calmly first. Then the train starts moving again but slows at every crossing for a technical issue.

Not bad for a double first (the tricycle’s maiden voyage and my friend’s first bike-plus-train trip). We arrive in Montauban 30 minutes late.

The first 5 kilometers of the towpath haven’t changed since my last visit. At one point, there’s even a chain blocking the entire path—no way a stroller would fit, let alone a wheelchair, child trailer, or tricycle. But no problem parking cars down below. From there, I try to climb the sloping embankment to reach the canal bank, but the Scorpion starts tipping toward my single pannier. I get off and push it. We’re still far from a *Voie Verte*. Yet the last 6 kilometers are gorgeous, with a wide, smooth bike path just as you’d hope: http://www.af3v.org/...e-VVV-.html?voie=421 I’ll congratulate the Departmental Council and encourage the new president, Christian Astruc, to extend this development all the way to Montauban. I also need to ask them to correct the distance displayed for years between Montech and Valence d’Agen: 58 km instead of the actual 40.

We quickly reach the end of the 11 km of this so-called branch or diversion canal: http://projetbabel.org/...ca_garonne-canal.htm Here, the Garonne lateral canal, the Montauban canal, and the Montech water slope meet near the old factory. We cross to the left bank using the footbridge, which is packed at 3:45 PM—school’s out (in my day, it was 4:30 PM). It’s great to see all these kids biking to and from school. Could it be thanks to all the safety improvements? Parents wouldn’t imagine them crossing the bridge with the nonstop traffic we’re dodging under before reaching the port. Another canal bridge struggles under the weight of a truck. We pass the Bistrot Constant again, and this time, the wind’s at our backs. “Night and day,” my friend remarks.

In Moissac, we cross paths with a school group on bikes, just like on the way there. I’m impressed by the supervisors organizing this activity and hope they’re properly covered for the responsibility it entails: http://www.education.gouv.fr/bo/1999/hs7/sorties... http://www.ac-clermont.fr/...ossierIEcycloVTT.pdf

I get back to Valence d’Agen at 6:30 PM after 50 km.

I chose to submit my request to the Departmental Council online so that the links would be active. It turns out their website rejects them. I had to remove "http:" from the message for it to be accepted. It’s completely backward. The whole point of digital was to be able to see the photos!

Gilles ROULAND 4 rue Pierre Perret 82400 VALENCE d’AGEN

To the President of the Departmental Council of Tarn-et-Garonne Subject: Voie Verte along the Montech Canal

For 10 years, I’ve used my bicycle to commute from home to work. It’s not much to brag about since the trip is only 6 km under pleasant riding conditions.

I also go on vacation by bike. To show how easy it is to travel several hundred kilometers, I’ve documented my various trips on Voyage Forum: http://voyageforum.com/...post=1000920#1000920

I’ve ridden along the Canal Latéral à la Garonne and the Canal du Midi several times. I know how different it is to ride a loaded bike (30 kg) on a dirt towpath with stones and roots compared to a paved path. That’s why I want to commend your department for creating and maintaining the bike path along the Canal Latéral à la Garonne—its success is clear from how busy it is.

I took it a step further by using my bike for work trips. I wouldn’t have even considered it without such infrastructure: http://voyageforum.com/...post=2799841#2799841

Last year, taking advantage of the car-free towpaths, I safely rode from Valence d’Agen to Lyon along the Canal de Garonne, Canal du Midi, and then from Sète to the Rhône, enjoying nature the whole way. I did a week-long training course and returned by train: http://voyageforum.com/...post=6006514#6006514

I want to congratulate your predecessors for building the bike path between Montech and Lacourt-Saint-Pierre. It’s a great achievement, and I hope you’ll continue this project. With 11 km of Voie Verte, you’ll give people from Montauban a wonderful place to walk while also offering French and international tourists a gateway to the charming port of Montech and its heritage, including the water slope. Connecting it to the Canal Latéral à la Garonne will boost our area’s appeal—a point well understood by the new owner of the lockkeeper’s house, now the Bistrot Constant: http://voyageforum.com/...post=6988221#6988221

It’s unfortunate that before Montauban, the towpath is blocked by a chain. Not even a stroller could get through—let alone a tricycle, a child trailer, or a wheelchair. See photo: http://voyageforum.com/...post=6990563#6990563 Just before the port of Montech, the signs need to be corrected (last photo). The distance from Montech to Valence d’Agen isn’t 58 km but 40 km (which makes more sense with the 66 km to Agen, since there are 25 km between Valence d’Agen and Agen). It doesn’t seem wise to indicate "Montauban 10 km" on the left bank of the canal (this sends cyclists the wrong way). This should be on the right-bank sign (just before the footbridge), where the Montauban sign already exists.

Hoping for a favorable response, I send my respectful regards,

Gilles ROULAND

I got a response from the Tarn-et-Garonne Departmental Council. I'm happy with how quick it was and the content. See attached scan.

The 500 km of the canal between the two seas offer a chance to take on a challenge and draw attention to a cause. Today, I caught up with Manuel TORRE TRUEBA, who has been running since Tuesday from the Étang de Thau to reach Castets-en-Dorthe by Sunday: https://www.facebook.com/events/425841234264024/

I met up with Manu and his two cycling companions and a young runner who set off from Castelsarrasin just before their 23 km morning break. After cheering them up with some nougat, I joined them for 15 km to encourage them on their 95 km stage to Mas d’Agenais.

To contribute a bit more to these kilometers, I’m going to write a check for 30 € to the Friedreich’s Ataxia association. Hats off to Manu, who’s running 100 km a day to support children with this rare genetic disease (when I do it by bike on my trips, I feel like my legs are tiny in comparison).

Meanwhile, others are embezzling millions at FIFA. No wonder soccer—"the people’s opium"—is run by a mafia just like drugs. Sorry, but I can’t help RANTING about it.

At the end of the month, I’m joining a week-long bike-camping trip organized by Philippe Lasnier, starting from Cahors. It’s the same route he just did, except this time there’ll be 15 recumbent bikes: http://www.as3r.fr/voyage-42.html Since there’s a "bit" of elevation and the trike will be loaded, I decided to add a smaller chainring. Currently, the 14 speeds on the Rohloff are paired with a 52-tooth chainring, giving a gear range of 7.68 m—perfect for outpacing upright bikes on descents—but 1.46 m is a bit long for climbs. With a 34-tooth chainring, the range will go from 0.95 to 5.02 m. I’ve booked an appointment at Cyclable to make this addition and replace the right mirror I broke during my first crash. I overestimated the stability in a turn—the inside wheel lifted, and the trike tipped over, causing the mirror and fender to scrape against the pavement (and my hand and arm). Luckily, it was the bell that took the most damage. This’ll make me more cautious on descents, but it also takes away some of the fun. I also asked them to remove the oil (from the first service) on the chain and in the cables and switch back to dry lube: http://squirtlube.fr/ I was supposed to leave from Valence d’Agen on the morning of Wednesday the 10th and drop off the trike around 6 PM in Toulouse to pick it up Thursday midday. But with storms in the forecast, I decided to fold the trike and put it in the Zoe. That let me leave in the early afternoon instead. However, driving the 95 km to Toulouse in an electric car turned out to be a challenge—maybe even harder than biking there. Not because of range, which was enough to get there. Though the car’s built-in GPS kept warning me about "insufficient charge" even though the battery was at 100% and showed the usual 160 km range. Maybe the system assumes I’d be driving at 130 km/h on the highway (which wouldn’t be wrong, since the Zoe’s instant consumption meter shows it needs 10,000 W to go 90 km/h and 20,000 W at 130). That’s surprising because, in a gas car, consumption doesn’t double from 90 to 130 km/h (gas is pretty efficient!). So I chose the toll-free route, but the GPS still kept warning me about insufficient range. Not very reassuring! I hit the highway at 90 km/h and checked that my range wasn’t plummeting. Since consumption was normal, I gradually increased the cruise control—first time I’ve really used it—and worked my way up to 100 km/h. The real challenge wasn’t the route, though—it was finding a place to recharge. Toulouse should’ve made it easy, especially since the Cyclable store is right near the Capitole, and the Vinci parking garage there has 9 spots for charging EVs. But Chargemap users say the Zoe won’t charge there: http://fr.chargemap.com/points/details/parking-vinci-toulouse I called VinciPark, and they confirmed the issue without knowing the cause. After spending 2 hours the night before noting down addresses, I saw all the problems users reported with most of the city’s charging stations: gas cars parked in EV spots, chargers not powered, touchscreens broken from tree resin, payment badges not recognized or accepted, incompatible or broken plugs… I ended up calling a private individual who, like me, offers charging at home. He was willing to let me use his 32 A cable, but he recommended the Renault dealership in L’Union, which offers free access to its fast charger 24/7. So that’s the address I entered into the GPS: http://fr.chargemap.com/points/details/renault-union I’m really grateful to this dealership (see my comment)—in 50 minutes, they got me from 50% to 100%, which would’ve taken 4 hours at home. By driving sensibly for those 90 km, I’d only used half the battery, which still showed 77 km remaining. Now I was ready to tackle the city and the return trip the next day. The store is so close to the city center that locals treat the little Rue de la Bourse as a pedestrian zone. They don’t hear the Zoe’s electronic hum until the last second, and I had to crawl along behind them. I stopped at No. 24, turned on my hazard lights, and left just enough space for bikes in the narrow street, which has no parking. The salesperson helped me unload the trike, and I quickly gave my instructions. Already, 5 cars had piled up, and horns were blaring. After staying overnight at my daughter’s, I picked up the Scorpion late Thursday morning, this time parking 1 km away to have time to check everything and make adjustments without blocking the road. I also got to test it out on the way back to the car. David couldn’t reuse the original chainring, so he installed a 52- and a 34-tooth from the same manufacturer. I’m now equipped to tackle loaded climbs. Without a derailleur, I select the chainring by pulling the chain with my hand—possible thanks to the cables that protect the chain along its long path. I left with a new mirror and a bottle of biodegradable lube but forgot the maintenance book I’d brought to have it stamped (for the purchase and first service). I made it back to Valence d’Agen without any issues, except for the heat in the cabin—I didn’t dare use the AC (even though I could’ve, since I still had 60 km of range left). The first climb test was a success: I could climb at 4 km/h with the small chainring (remember, balance isn’t an issue, and you can even stop on a climb and start again without straining), whereas with the big one, I had to stay at 6 km/h to maintain a decent pedaling cadence. I’m ready to hit the Voies Vertes and Véloroutes, as the new map invites: http://www.af3v.org/Guide-des-VVV-de-France.html IGN released it just in time for vacation, in collaboration with AF3V, whose app lets you scan the QR code and enter the route number to get info section by section. Still no word on my letter to Ségolène Royal about promoting bike and train use. This time, I’m trying a petition to make things happen: https://www.change.org/p/%C3%A0-madame-la-ministre-de-l-ecologie-du-d%C3%A9veloppement-durable-et-de-l-energie-taxer-le-transport-a%C3%A9rien-proportionnellement-%C3%A0-ses-%C3%A9missions-afin-de-ne-pas-fausser-la-concurrence-avec-les-autres-modes-de-d%C3%A9placement-moins-polluants

I’m glad I had a small tray added for my first recumbent trike bike-camping trip. For this itinerant trek between the Lot and Dordogne (see the route photo), the landscapes were stunning, sunshine all week, a pool every evening, and constant good vibes shared among 15 cyclists. Video of the vehicles, each more loaded than the last: https://share.orange.fr/#UJbHdj2adq19c730b674

This week was organized by the AFV, which I’ve just joined. You can find the GPS route and campsite details on their site: velorizontal.bbfr.net/...2-20-au-28-juin-... We should support associations that work to promote cycling. I’ve been a member of AF3V for years, and with them, I rode the EuroVelo 6 from Vienna to Nantes last year: www.af3v.org/ And with CyclotransEurope, I’m heading to Copenhagen for the first time: eurovelo3.fr/...andonnees/rando2015/ on an upright bike. Have a great summer, everyone!

Since I’m leaving for Copenhagen this Sunday, I can’t join the fifth activist bike ride organized by the tireless cycling advocate Julien Savary from http://www.vvv-sud.org/. It’s too bad I’ll miss out on pushing for the creation of the Tarn Valley bike route—http://randovelosud2015.le-pic.org/. Since it started in Moissac this Friday, I was able to attend the briefing and catch up with a few fellow riders to cheer them on at the Île du Bidounet campsite when they handed out documents to each participant. http://www.camping-moissac.com/

A big thank you to CyclotransEurope for organizing the Copenhagen-Paris ride. We started with 60 people in Denmark, including the bravest with their camping gear and others staying in youth hostels. Of course, not everyone had 5 weeks to spare, so 25 of us left in Bremen. Some joined for just one stage, others for a few days or weeks to cycle for the Climate. Klaus Bondam, CEO of the Danish Cyclists' Federation (DCF), first explained how Copenhagen became a bike-friendly city while preparing for the 2009 Climate Conference, which was a global failure. After a city tour, we faced cold and wind for several days before turning south to follow the Eurovelo 3 route, which runs from Trondheim, Norway, to Santiago de Compostela—on paper, at least, since it doesn’t actually exist. We started on the old oxen path, then rode on dirt, stones, and sometimes sand, enduring a few falls and multiple flat tires. In northern Germany, villages are connected by bike paths, but they’re rarely paved. A Belgian managed to puncture his tire three times in one day. He also found a replacement tire for his partner on a Sunday from a local. Unfortunately, it burst a few days later after a forceful inflation following kilometers of struggling to maintain enough pressure. A German bike shop forced them to push their bikes for 2 km, refusing to sell a tire without seeing the bike. Route difficulties and delays from managing a group (with a spotter at every intersection waiting for the sweep bike) meant we almost never arrived by 6 PM, the dinner time at hostels. We were lucky to have Gudrund ("Goudroune"), a member of the ADFC (German cycling club) and a French teacher, as our guide. She showed us the Ruhr Valley and took us up a slag heap to the Tetrahedron of Bottrop. It was during the climb that Juliette, 16, fell. Her derailleur bent under the strain and hit the spokes. Another bike shop refused to replace it, citing the quality of the MTB, and only straightened it. Her mother took advantage of a rest day to buy her a new one. This was the second German bicycle after the one stolen in Hamburg from the hostel parking lot with no bike storage. No replacement for the handbag stolen at breakfast in the same hostel, and a call to the police to cut the lock of the bag’s owner. Then the cobblestones in Belgium made us suffer too. The owner of a folding bike was "lucky" that her handlebar broke in front of a train station—it took 3 weeks to get the part. She went home and rejoined us with a borrowed identical bike. It wasn’t until we reached France that we found Eurovelo 3 signage for part of the route. In Compiègne, young people with their educator from the city of Pantin accompanied us to Paris. They loved the experience. But before the first 40 km, one of them fell on a busy road. Without a shoulder, he lost his balance on the grass to the right. His wheel was so warped it touched the fork. Two men stood on it to straighten it and reach Senlis, where the local association gave him another. The educator following him was less lucky—already having had both knees operated on, he couldn’t keep pedaling the next day after the inevitable impact of the fallen bike. Fortunately, the young people from Pantin were adults and made it to Paris, where they, like us, were received at the 4th arrondissement town hall. I covered 2,150 km, while a camper did over 2,200. Some did a little less, taking the train for 2 or 3 long stages (100 km). Fourteen of us completed the entire route, including Juliette. But everyone was brave, especially a woman whose small chainring stubbornly refused to shift, even after a bike shop worked on it, due to the supermarket-quality bike. Bravo to Léo, 13, and Lucie, 10, who rode 1,000 km with their camping parents.

Everyone showed that bike travel is possible. But it would be easier on marked bike routes and safer with greenways. No doubt COP 21 will announce major initiatives for cycling and trains, which, when combined, are the only viable transport modes—with funding from taxing air travel, the most polluting transport mode. Meanwhile, my petition hasn’t gotten many signatures. https://www.change.org/...ment-moins-polluants

Of course, I was overloaded, but many in shorts and sandals with little socks envied my cycling bibs in the Baltic cold. Yet, after buying two Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires, said to be puncture-proof, I didn’t bring a spare inner tube. Everyone told me it was a mistake because they eventually puncture. I decided to buy one but only did so after 1,000 km because we always arrived after shops closed. Anyway, I didn’t get a flat. I took the opportunity to buy a center kickstand. My side kickstand twisted under the weight on the frame bar. I realized I couldn’t mount the kickstand under the frame because, when raised, it would touch the chain. Not even the mechanic at a German train station bike shop (despite my "it touches the chain") understood—he mounted it, then removed it when I showed him by putting the chain on the big chainring. I bought a used side kickstand from him because he didn’t have a new one. But it sank under the weight of my panniers. So I bought the same one from Juliette’s old bike. No more needing to stay on my MTB during the long waits for flat tires to be fixed. Indeed, it’s easy to find a tree or post when you’re alone, but harder with 50 people. That’s why I had 4 kickstands on board.

I carried a new gear shifter (I had only replaced the front one before leaving) for nothing. But my piece of electrical wire was useful to a cyclist whose fabric panniers didn’t survive the 2,000 km. And the plastic piece brought by a woman helped protect another cyclist’s inner tube from a punctured tire.

My only vibration-related issue was losing a bolt that secured my front rack to the frame. Luckily, I had brought a spare with a few bolts.

We met the UN’s climate secretary in Bonn. She rode a few kilometers with us: https://www.youtube.com/...amp;feature=youtu.be We visited the Ruhr Valley: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kSJriucWAKs I borrowed a Jacques Brel song to dedicate to Erick Marchandise, one of the organizers of the 15th CyclotransEuropean ride: https://www.youtube.com/...amp;feature=youtu.be We met Alternatiba and their 5,000 km climate tour before Brussels: https://www.youtube.com/...amp;feature=youtu.be We were filmed by AFP in Paris: http://www.20minutes.fr/...au-secours-du-climat

Copenhagen to Paris, continued. Thanks to Nadège, one of the cyclists who, in addition to carrying her camping gear, was our camerawoman, sound recordist, and editor. In Belgium: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=84o8a52WgMI I borrowed Bourvil’s "Clair de Lune": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELO-Hpjnwak

EuroVelo 3 exists in France:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMaYKrnwm1II also brought back a souvenir from my dip in the Baltic Sea (13 °C). I noticed there was fuel oil on my swimsuit (I had to throw it away). Maybe we didn’t have the best idea swimming on a beach facing a thermal power plant. Pollution’s got to go *somewhere*! Anyway, my petition is taking off (humor).https://www.change.org/...ment-moins-polluants

Even Pope Francis, in his encyclical *Laudato Si’*, calls for degrowth in some parts of the world. Yet our leaders remain deaf and blinded by Growth, seeing it as the panacea. Like Winston Churchill said, “You chose to avoid war at the price of dishonor. You will have dishonor, and you will have war.” I’d say: Between growth and degrowth, you chose growth—and you’ll end up with both. Explanation: The stronger the growth (the goal being to hit the wall as fast as possible), the faster degrowth will kick in (through resource depletion and system collapse). Still, I bought my Montauban–Paris round-trip train ticket with a sleeper berth + bike to join the protest on November 30th from Paris to Le Bourget: http://cyclotourisme-mag.com/...ec-cyclotranseu... I can’t miss this meet-up to challenge the world on the role of bikes in reducing transportation-related harm. Anyway, I won’t see another COP in Paris in my lifetime—or it’ll be too late to act.

Go West

A buddy I’ve already hiked with suggested we head to Morcenx (Landes), where his parents’ old house is. We’re going with the bike route Viamichelin suggests: http://www.viamichelin.fr/web/Itineraires?departure=82400%20Valence%2C%20France&departureId=31NDJ5Z3oxMGNORFF1TVRBNE56Yz1jTUM0NE9URTFNdz09&arrival=40110%20Morcenx%2C%20France&arrivalId=31NDJqMTUxMGNORFF1TURNek1EUT1jTFRBdU9URXlPUT09&index=&vehicle=3&distance=km&corridor= and I tear out six pages I’d highlighted from my road guide. The weather forecast is perfect, so we set off with our identical bikes (bought 25 years ago in different regions when mountain biking was just starting) and his tent, which we’ll use for the necessary stop. Monday, 09/28/15: Valence d’Agen 9 AM – Gabarret 7 PM, 96 km We leave Tarn-et-Garonne and its morning mist after crossing Dunes. We alternate between climbs and descents through the rolling landscapes of Lot-et-Garonne, near the Gers, without ever setting wheels in the latter—we follow its northern border for many kilometers. We notice our average speed, including breaks, hovers around 10 km/h. On top of the terrain, we can’t resist exploring the bastides along the way: http://www.lamontjoie.com/bastideenaquitaine/promenade.html With no water sources, my buddy asks a school cafeteria worker to refill our water bottles. The generous sunshine and our efforts had left us empty (well, I still had one and a half small bottles out of the three I’d brought). In http://www.francescas.info/, we picnic under the region’s typical arcades. In Mézin, the waitress spontaneously offers us small spoons to eat the mille-feuilles we’d just bought from the bakery to go with our beers. After 86 km, we reach Les Landes and decide to look for a large enough village to find a restaurant for dinner, where we’ll pitch the tent nearby. Arriving in Gabarret and seeing the sign for the municipal campsite, I ask a woman if it’s open. She says yes, as long as the Barbotan thermal baths are hosting guests. Great—we’ll have access to restrooms and lighting. The reception is closed when we arrive, just as it will be when we leave. I’ll leave the payment in the mailbox. Caravans and RVs occupy the spots. We’re the only ones crazy enough to sleep under canvas. We pick a grassy spot—it’ll make up for my mini mattress, which I forgot. Luckily, the village’s only open restaurant is http://www.hotel-restaurant-le-relais.com/. With its six rooms, it’s currently hosting traveling workers. The owner serves us an excellent meal at a reasonable price. I ask if we can have breakfast. He agrees, even though it’s usually reserved for hotel guests. That’ll be a nice comfort in the chilly morning.

Tuesday 29/09 Gabarret 09:30 AM Morcenx 5:00 PM 74 km In our sleeping bags, we were warm enough at the start of the night. By morning, Dominique added his sweatshirt to sleep better. I didn’t dare search for the zipper, which was who-knows-where after tossing and turning. Nor my clothes, all soaked from condensation dripping from the single-layer tent fabric. I expected this kind of hassle, having experienced it with my own budget tent, but my friend really wanted to try his out. To be honest, I was even expecting worse if we’d been wild camping.

Since I’d seen the day before that a greenway runs from Gabarret to Mont-de-Marsan along the old railway line, we decide to take it. www.landes.fr/...e-marsan-et-armagnac Dominique didn’t want to bike between Mont-de-Marsan and Morcenx due to the traffic on that route, and we had to head north. But the term "Voie Verte" (Greenway) was too tempting. Though rest areas and historical signs dot its 50 km, this path—better suited for hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking—shouldn’t be called a "Voie Verte." These routes should accommodate rollerbladers and wheelchairs.

I learn this the hard way with my overinflated tires on the rough terrain. Dominique enjoys it, and it’s true the scenery is pretty—but not for biking with a loaded bike. That’s why the AF3V only lists 16 km: www.af3v.org/...he-VVV-.html?voie=49

After 50 km, it’s not just me who’s exhausted. I notice my rack’s struts have worn into the plastic of my panniers. I should’ve added padding.

We decide to take the train between Mont-de-Marsan and Morcenx. The SNCF app on my phone shows a train every 2 hours, but that’s nonsense—it doesn’t match the schedule the ticket agent gives us. He confirms all TER trains accept bikes (for free).

We arrive in Morcenx after 30 minutes. We shop for dinner, breakfast, and lunch in the town center. His house is nearby. We unload the bikes and set the tent, sleeping bags, and all the clothes that spent the night in the tent out to dry. We bike to a woods 5 km away, where Dominique usually finds mushrooms. We just have time to gather some chanterelles for the omelet before nightfall.