Biking (MTB) along the Canal between the Two Seas (France) (page 14 of 16)

Thursday, June 7th – Kerven 8 AM to Saint-Pol-de-Léon 4 PM, 53 km Text and photos to come.

Friday, June 8th - St Pol de Léon at 9 AM to Kernic at 5 PM, 57 km Text and photos to come.

Saturday, June 9th - Kernic at 9 AM to Guissiny at 4:30 PM, 47 km Text and photos to come.

Sunday, June 10 - Guissiny 8 AM to Brest 3 PM - 47 km + 4 km Text and photos to come.

Monday, June 11th: Brest, 34 km without luggage + 6 km on foot Text and photos to come.

Tuesday, June 12th: 9:30 AM boat from Brest, 10:00 AM Le Frêt, 3:00 PM Morgat — 33 km + 18 km without luggage. Text and photos to come.

Wednesday, June 13th – Morgat 9:30 AM to Locronan 3:00 PM, 43 km Text and photos to come.

Thursday, June 14th Locronan 8:30 AM – Quimper 11:00 AM 34 km

Text and photos to come.

Friday, June 15 Trains Text and photos coming soon...

As with previous years, I took part in preparing the summer activist bike ride organized this year by www.lelimousinavelo.fr/ with support from www.af3v.org/, www.cyclo-camping.international/fr, and 2p2r.org/. The 2 Pieds 2 Roues association is based in Toulouse, where we meet starting in October to review the last ride and plan the next one. It was there that Julien Savary managed to gather a core group of activists for the first Vallée du Lot Ride in 2011: velotroute.le-pic.org/?lang=fr. For the 2018 edition, Francis Mons, a pillar of Limousin à Vélo and a resident of Brive-la-Gaillarde, is leading the way. He got our mouths watering with a rainbow-colored route project:

Motivating the team to divide tasks for this route between Bordeaux and Montluçon: Contacting local authorities Addresses for town halls, community councils, departmental councils (list) Tourist offices (list and Excel file) Contacting local associations + list Camping accommodations (list) Hard accommodations (list) Food resupply – grocery stores (list with hours) Press contacts (list + file) Press relations before the ride (end of June) Repair shops (list) Participant discussion list (management/registrations) Dedicated website (building/management) Flyer: preliminary program A3 posters for the ride and bikes Registration form / Rules and advice Banner (lighter) OpenRunner maps for participants Pre-ride registration management Press relations during the ride Route exploration SNCF schedules Tourist visits Payment collection for visits Mechanical maintenance during the ride Photos + videos during the ride He’ll be assisted in scouting and meeting with officials by Isabelle Souillard, who lives near Périgueux, and Thierry Bennegen, the AF3V departmental delegate for Haute-Vienne. After a lot of work by these main organizers and many trips—especially to meet with officials—and contributions from everyone, the ride filled up with 40 participants for all or part of the planned 600 km.

Some participants took the train from Montpellier to Toulouse to meet others and ride together on the Voie Verte along the Canal de Garonne. On June 26, one of them called me to say they were in my town of Valence d’Agen. I was able to greet a few at the café terrace where they’d stopped for a drink and others at the pharmacy where they were restocking supplies. I would’ve liked to accompany them all the way to Bordeaux, the starting point of the ride. But I couldn’t be absent again for my wife’s birthday on June 28. Like in 2014 for the Vienne–Nantes ride on the EuroVelo 6 voyageforum.com/...st=6637644;a=6637644 and in 2015 for the Copenhagen–Paris ride on the EuroVelo 3 voyageforum.com/...st=7138190;a=7138190. It was on the evening of Saturday, June 30, that we gathered with our three kids to give her gifts. I’d decided to take the train between Agen and Bordeaux. I could’ve first taken a TER from Valence to Agen, but since I was worried about boarding trains with my loaded bike, I avoided the first one by riding along the canal.

Sunday, July 1: Valence d’Agen 7:45 AM – Agen 9:45 AM (28 km) – Bordeaux 12:00 PM (140 km by train) Since my bike is still at Cyclable after the issues during my trip to Brittany: voyageforum.com/...st=9076568;a=9076568 I left with my MTB, which had stayed in the same condition after my trip to Morocco: voyageforum.com/...st=8640255;a=8640255 I had to straighten the derailleur, which had suffered on the plane. Loaded with its five panniers and tent, it only weighs 37 kg, but I realized while riding on the Voie Verte that I’d forgotten my camping plug (actually a stroke of luck, since other participants brought theirs and I didn’t end up needing it). I left the canal near Agen train station and took the footbridge over the tracks.

A sign indicates that bicycles and motorcycles have been banned since 1935. I don’t know if the ban is still in effect or if it applies to riding your bike, but at the other end, a beautiful ramp was built to descend to street level and the station entrance.

In front of the departure board, I met two people from Toulouse who’d helped me board the Intercité train on our return from the Vallée du Lot: voyageforum.com/...st=8188298;a=8188298

After they’d climbed the stairs to leave the platform (still no elevator or ramp), over coffee they told me I could’ve easily boarded their TER in Valence d’Agen. No problem on the next TER either—it was also a recent train with a platform-level floor. We arrived in Bordeaux and found the bike path along the Garonne quays. It’s now www.eurovelo.com/fr/eurovelos/eurovelo-3 that connects Trondheim in Norway to Santiago de Compostela. It was inaugurated in June to general indifference: eurovelo3.fr/...decevante/#more-4788

Gradually, we met other participants on the path and quays, with the meeting point set across from the Sunday market.

Several were already settled at the campsite, which allowed us to lighten our loads.

A first flat tire was being repaired at the gathering point.

It was Pierre’s tricycle—a Toulousain who’d participated in the Copenhagen–Paris ride before COP21.



After my market shopping, I enjoyed the free yellow kiwi tasting, opting for the smoothie.

I joined the picnic spot across from the Bourse building.

I know all these participants

and was also happy to see Francis Mons here in blue, in the leader’s seat!

We enjoyed the beautiful weather.

Sunday, July 1st - Afternoon visit + 18 km camping trip

In addition to the welcome from Vélocité, we enjoyed a guided tour by a quirky volunteer

who was really knowledgeable about Bordeaux’s history.



We discovered new buildings

and those built by wine merchants who made their fortune in the 18th century, the Monument des Girondins

and its sculptures.



It’s said that Intendant Tourny made Bordeaux the most beautiful city in France—"He gave Bordeaux that immortally noble, elegant, open air." And the city gates are stunning.



We took advantage of the car-free zone on the first Sunday of the month.



Then we returned to the quays and the Miroir d’Eau



Finally, we headed toward Bordeaux Lac

via the EuroVelo 3 and the V80: https://www.canaldes2mersavelo.com/

Sunday, July 1st evening (total day for me: 46 km) We pitch our tents next to the ones already set up at the Village du Lac campsite for the exorbitant price of 13 € each, considering the comfort and the fact that many of us are sharing each spot.

Only the pool justifies the cost.



And the loan of a room for our briefing, which ends with a drink offered by velo-cite.org/.

Thanks to them for the warm welcome throughout this pre-hike day.

Each of us is given a hiker’s booklet, a laminated sign with string to attach to our bikes, and some flyers loose sheets to hand out. This comes in addition to the GPS tracks, lists of campsites, bike shops, grocery stores... available on the website: www.lelimousinavelo.fr/...rique=28&lang=fr And the list of participants with their phone numbers, shared by email.



Another puncture repair turns out to be necessary.

Before dinner, which everyone enjoys at their own pace. The night promises to be damp:

Monday, July 2nd – Bordeaux Lac 8:15 AM, Créon 5:00 PM, 46 km Only a few drops fell last night, and between getting up around 6 AM and departure, nearly all the campers managed to dry their tents.

The departure time is strict because we’re expected at the Département Council.

Everyone gathers at reception, where those who slept indoors are waiting (the women from Montpellier, who can travel lighter this way, and the couple from Évreux, who carry their nighttime breathing devices on their e-bikes).

We quickly take the official departure photo before heading onto the bike path at the campsite entrance.

It only takes us 45 minutes to cover the 10 km, but since the group got spread out in the city due to traffic and traffic lights, and the front of the group didn’t wait, we struggle to find the spot among all the departmental and regional buildings. Luckily, a woman comes out to meet us and points us to the ramp that lets us climb onto the terrace where we’re meeting officials and journalists. We’re given an EuroVelo 3 bag and maps. I’m so focused on talking to a journalist that I don’t notice the distribution of Gironde backpacks containing a rain poncho, a bell, and a saddle cover. I only discover it in the evening and luck out by getting one from a cyclist who’s already too loaded and gives it to me. (click to enlarge) Then we explore the Saint-Michel district. The last working-class stronghold in the city center, it’s undergoing major changes.

Despite this, the neighborhood still has a strong integration focus.

You’ll find plenty of African and North African grocery stores and shops here. Saint-Michel is a village where the older residents still know each other.

We’re guided by Alain Guerineaud.

He then takes us to Cours Pasteur, where we split up to shop at Biocoop and Carrefour City.

I make sure to snap a photo of the Mobility House and ask the hostess if I can leave a stack of our flyers. This young woman, of Martinican or Guadeloupean origin, gives me a cold reception, telling me she’s busy (with a woman) before I even open my mouth.

I leave them on the table with the other flyers.



After thanking the Bordeaux locals, we cross the Pont de Pierre, which was closed to car traffic for a trial period. Article with a photo of the protest Julien Savary joined last Saturday, published today: www.sudouest.fr/...p;xtnp=9&xtcr=84



Alain Juppé has decided: www.sudouest.fr/...p;xtnp=6&xtcr=51 His press conference: www.sudouest.fr/...ppe-5206643-2780.php



We reach Latresne, where the Roger Lapèbie path begins: www.af3v.org/...he-VVV-.html?voie=16. But the route is disrupted by the construction of the new bridge, which is way behind schedule and will finally be named "Simone Veil."



Facing the Arena: www.20minutes.fr/...eaux-metropole-arena

Monday, July 2nd: Bordeaux Lac at 8:15 AM to Créon at 5 PM – 46 km (continued) Just like in Bordeaux, where the marshy suburbs were drained in the 18th century, as soon as we reach the Voie Verte, there are wetlands. Francis takes us to a nice spot for a picnic that he had scoped out.



But a few of us choose a slightly less shady spot with natural seating. Since Isabelle isn’t using her tripod, she lends it to me.

At the Biocoop, I’d suggested to Michel (who I’m biking with for the first time) that we share a half watermelon, inviting him to buy a melon next time. I find a creative way to "return" it to its owner.

Then I spend a long time waiting a few hundred meters down the path to film the whole group right after departure. But some had already bailed to grab a coffee. It’s tough to film the entire group in action without a plan. I only get part of it (see the end of this story). Still, it gives me time to photograph the signs.



We meet up in front of the old Sadirac train station, now a heritage house. But it’s closed this early afternoon, and the restrooms aren’t accessible (even the portable toilets listed are locked). To save water? Julien notes it in his observation journal to report the issues along the route later.



Claudine twisted her big toe in a fall in Bordeaux. The group was riding on the sidewalk, and she didn’t see a bollard that caused her to trip.

We leave the Roger Lapébie path to visit an organic winemaker.



Then we head to the campsite.

Here are Véronique and Jacky, who I biked with from Copenhagen.

The pool



The campsite.

We’re allowed to use the room for our debrief, next-day briefing, and apéro, on the condition we clear out for the match! Here’s my take on the subject, published in the readers’ letters section of www.ladecroissance.net/ in September 2018:

I’m amazed that the French have suddenly fallen in love with their country, passionate about a soccer match—even if it’s just a (trivial) World Cup game with the French team! "This is the best day of my life!" we hear again after the victory. A 26-year-old man says, "Now I can die in peace." For me, it’d be a bit more complicated. I’d die in peace if I were certain all nations were committed to improving the state of the planet we’ll leave to our children. By taxing kerosene to reduce airplane use. By cutting production and then banning anything harmful. By developing everything natural and healthy. Moving toward degrowth: fewer goods, more connections. A society without competition. Stop trying to crush the opponent, run together instead of against each other. Stop teaching kids they have to be better than their classmates. It’s this constant drive to be above others and always want more that makes our society so toxic. That’s not likely to happen, unlike a team that crushes the competition. Blessed are the simple-minded! And now they’re promising us gender equality: In 2019, France had the honor of hosting the eighth FIFA Women’s World Cup. From June 7 to July 7, 2019, the tournament pitted 24 qualified teams against each other. Fifty-two matches were played in nine cities: Paris, which hosted the opening match, Reims, Valenciennes, Le Havre, Rennes, Grenoble, Montpellier, Nice (where the third-place match was held), and Lyon, which hosted the semifinals and final. I was hoping women would never stoop to the level of competitors or fans (except maybe Mrs. Thatcher).

Tuesday, July 3rd - Créon 8:15 AM, Abzac 4:00 PM, 64 km



Just at my spot, there are 2 tents identical to mine.

Pierre hands out a flyer to a man interested in our group.

He’s wearing an explicit T-shirt. More and more people get it, including some prominent figures: www.ecologiste.org/...e_la_croissance.html But many prefer to keep their heads in the sand and enjoy things before the collapse. (It’s true that individual actions may seem insignificant, but we owe it to our children.)

Before leaving, Patrick helps him tighten a fastener.

At the exit of www.camping-bel-air.com/, we cautiously head onto the road to Créon.





Where we have a meet-up with the mayor.

But not with this refreshing truck.



No big deal—the town and its former mayor have already done a lot for cycling: transports.blog.lemonde.fr/...le-ephemere-du-velo/

Including creating France’s first bike station:



www.gironde-tourisme.fr/...ation-velo-de-creon/



We get back on the fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roger_Lapébie trail,

a former railway line turned into a pleasant greenway.

We’re on the EuroVelo 3 route,

modestly marked by a sticker.

which we can hope is temporary.

We wait for Pierre



who, despite the gentle slopes of the old railway lines, can’t keep up with the group. He’s followed by Hubert, who brings up the rear to support anyone falling behind.

Tuesday, July 3rd - Créon 8:15 AM to Abzac 4:00 PM, 64 km (continued)



We cross the Dordogne River

where fishing with a *carrelet* (a traditional fishing platform) is practiced.



We head to Saint-Émilion, where we only have half an hour for a free visit.



The hills are steep, and by the time I get there, I only have 15 minutes left.



I prefer to catch my breath while drinking and snacking in the shade. Luc takes the opportunity to send updates and photos to our followers (but not on Facebook or other American sites).



We hit the road again

by taking a detour to test a suggested route.

But since we weren’t informed about it, I thought, passing the same properties again: *"Something’s not right here."*



We go for a picnic at the public garden in Libourne



after doing our shopping nearby.



I bought this *"easy-to-open"* coconut at the BioCOOP. But I ruined my knife trying to get the milk water out. www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy4a73yKaRE I’ll need to get the right tool next time! www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9PAReTftPI

Francis tells me that at a shop advertising itself as Belgian and asking for a local grape variety, they sold him this wine.



The coffee and *cannelés* were offered by the Tourist Office. When we set off again, I notice my handlebars are almost loose on the stem. I must not have tightened them enough after getting off the plane, and my MTB falling over made it worse. I can turn the handlebars with no effort. Even with this loose fit, I didn’t experience any wobbling, unlike with my TX-1200 in Brittany. I pull out my hex key and tighten it quickly without losing the group.



We enjoy the shaded route

but less so the path

which gets tough on the climb.



Luckily, the www.camping-residentiel-le-paradis.fr/animation... has a great pool with massaging jets.

But first, we have to burn ourselves in the shower. Last year, I already ruined the elastane in my cycling shorts by trying to wash them. voyageforum.com/...st=8171679;a=8171679 It seems like it’s forbidden to provide cold water in camping showers.



Here, you can see the cold water pipe has been removed. I assume it’s to prevent legionella bacteria from spreading. conseils.xpair.com/..._temperature_ecs.htm It’s always *for our own good* that they make life harder...

Tuesday, July 3rd – Créon 8:15 AM to Abzac 4:00 PM, 64 km (End)

Everyone settles in. After we turned down the spot (which looked like a parking lot only usable by RVs) offered by the manager.



Didier had to add his roof extension in the middle of the night because of a few drops.

Everyone pays attention during the meeting, some setting up the seats they brought along,

followed by the apéritif and dinner.

I borrow a hammer to crack open my coconut.

I’d asked the Périgueux Tourist Office for a city map and the brochure about the vélo route along the Isle Valley, which I received before my trip: www.tourisme-isleperigord.com/velo-route-voie-v...

We’ll take it tomorrow and ride its 100 km all the way past Périgueux. The next part of this adventure will bring us face-to-face with storms and gale-force winds that’ll hit the region hard...

Since I’m leaving Monday for Draguignan to meet up with 40 cyclists: www.af3v.org/...LE-LA-VOIE-2018.html I won’t be able to finish this story. In the meantime, the videos are here: share.orange.fr/#7QN0I7oXIa2ebbba17a5 To watch them, it seems you need to download the 3 where I made edits, and the unedited one can be viewed directly.

Wednesday, July 4th - Abzac 8:30 AM to Sourzac 4:45 PM, 77 km



We're enjoying the Véloroute de l'Isle.

V90 Very pleasant. But the pace is too fast.



I arrive too late in Montpon to visit the organ. I do, however, have time to enjoy the market, buy a guinea fowl, and make it to the meet-up with the local officials who offer us a drink at the nautical base.



The other cyclists arrive late and one by one. After the picnic, we get back on the bike path and its beautiful footbridges. The first to arrive at the campsite enjoy the municipal shelter. The others endure the rain and violent wind gusts. Some see large billboards fly away. The Municipality of Sourzac offers us a drink by the light of emergency lighting and suggests spending the night in this space next to the town hall and the campsite restrooms.

Thursday, July 5th - Sourzac 8:15 AM to Trélissac 6:00 PM, 58 km

The bravest had set up their tents after the storm. After the briefing and safety rules reminder, we set off again in the rain. The greenway wasn’t flooded, but the corn was flattened.

We visited the sturgeon farm in Neuvic.

We didn’t go for the tasting option because of its price.

After the market in Saint-Astier, we enjoyed the sunshine for our picnic.

Just enough time to dry the tent before the next downpour.

And take shelter under the high-quality facilities.

The greenway took us toward Périgueux.

It wasn’t spared by the storm.



The footbridge to access the city was closed.

Luc went to buy a rim to replace Olivier’s, which had cracked. But it wasn’t the right size. They had to go back and exchange it.

Further on, the greenway was closed.

We were still welcomed by the officials of Périgueux.



We were supposed to stay at the leisure center in Trélissac, but trees had partially destroyed it. Isabelle, who lives in the town despite a tree falling on her home, got permission to use the sports field and restrooms.

As well as the hall. On top of that, she offered us an apéritif. Thanks to her!