How surprising this Sultanate of Oman is (page 2 of 8)

I just Googled those two places 🤪 Jaizkibel sounds good, but the banks of the Lez... Are you talking about Montpellier?

The weather’s nice, must be that 😂

I just Googled your two spots 🤪 Jaizkibel is fine, but the banks of the Lez... Are you talking about Montpellier?

We’re far from Muscat, but yeah, it’s Montpellier (because there’s more to life than mountains 😄)

Well, after that little escape by the Lez river, let's get back to the point ;)

Because I can already hear you saying, "Yeah, the sea, the desert, and the wadis are all well and good, but where are the people? 🤔"

And yeah, because we know so little about the Middle East that it sometimes takes a while to understand certain things.

In this case, it took us 4 days. 4 days to realize that the people here are a bit like bats—they mostly come out at night! A monkey on a scooter, totally normal 😆

While we’re out walking between 9 AM and 4 PM, they’re holed up at home (or in their big air-conditioned cars 😆) because of the heat. That’s why we passed through so many villages without seeing a soul during our first few days.

It feels really strange at first!

But don’t worry, in Nizwa, you’ll be surrounded by Omanis 😋.

Beyond this stunning ancient city (Google it if you’re curious), the reason we’re here is the Friday livestock market. Every guide talks about it and recommends arriving at 7 AM... so I was there by 6 AM 😆 (to give Lulu time to wake up).

Here I am in the early morning light, trying to find my way, when suddenly a crowd appears: oh my gooood (switching it up from the usual "Wahoooo" 😜)! It’s the ancestral weapons market!!!



I’d heard a little about it, but I was convinced something this traditional no longer existed!





That morning, I’d made a big effort with my outfit: long pants and even a headscarf.

I’d just forgotten that they were almost all in white... while I was in black and dark blue 👩🏽‍🦳👵🏼. And I’m the only "white" person. And I’m the only woman.

Spot the odd one out 😋

But once again, don’t be afraid: in the "travelers’ world," Omanis are known for being very welcoming and tolerant, despite their very conservative appearance. And really, for the past week, that’s been confirmed. They’re very respectful, even attentive and gentlemanly. Seriously, I’ve never seen guys this classy!! Even if, in my opinion, you still shouldn’t push it too far 😜

Anyway, like everywhere in the country and no matter their age, they all wear their traditional outfits: Dishdashas, always clean and impeccably ironed, with a head covering—either a turban or an embroidered Kumma.



For the women, who you’ll see later, it’s black from head to toe... but often with nail polish, nice makeup, and high heels (though you’ll have to look closely under all that fabric 😆).

Some Omani tourists are there taking photos without a care. So I give it a try and it goes smoothly. They’re too busy negotiating the purchase of a rifle or a stunning silver Kandjar to pay any attention to me. And it’s just perfect! The auctions follow one after another and take place in such a calm atmosphere—I’d almost say discreet! When Lulu arrives, we head to the livestock market next.



It’s also very authentic—until other herds show up... those of our fellow tourists 😄.

But I have to admit, this mix of two worlds is pretty captivating to watch, especially since everything happens in perfect harmony.



The shepherds buy their animals, tourists wander around taking photos without bothering anyone, and sometimes, these two worlds come together to share tea while having a chat (since Omanis are very well-educated and almost all speak English).

To top it off, we end up at the city’s Souk,





followed by the open-air market.



I’ll really remember these moments for a long time. To be honest, I think it’s only in India that I’ve experienced such emotional delights 🤩.

Have a great Sunday, friends! 😊

You’ve uncovered a real hat festival! Not bad aesthetically at all. Didn’t it feel a bit like a "One Thousand and One Nights" vibe? That’s the impression your photos give me.

So true, Joël! I’ll talk more about it later, but we really felt like we were in the land of a thousand and one nights at times. But what really blew me away is that, after traveling quite a bit around the world, it’s the first country we’ve seen where EVERY local in the ENTIRE country still wears traditional dress. I had no idea that still existed in 2024! !

And the women? All in black, like niqabs, just like in one of your photos?

Hang on, Kate—I’ll tell you more later, but there’s something for everyone (or almost everyone 😊) depending on the region.



The niqab worn by the woman in the photo is typical of the "desert farmers," if I understood correctly. But once again, they’re very tolerant, and I was able to wander around with my hair down everywhere without attracting a single disapproving look.

So true, Joël! I’ll talk more about it later, but we really felt like we were in the land of a thousand and one nights at times

Okay, from what I remember, it’s still Aladdin with his 3.5L 6-cylinder Toyota, right?

I’ll give you that, Bruno: they’ve kept the traditional attire, but they ditched the flying carpet a long time ago! 😂

Hi Christelle,

What a beautiful gallery of portraits (male, obviously)! Congratulations! !

ALL the locals in the WHOLE country still wear traditional dress. I had no idea this still existed in 2024!

This is the case in Bhutan. It’s even mandatory by royal decree to wear the national costume in schools, universities, professional life, government offices, sacred places, and during ceremonies, etc.

https://www.myatlas.com/H%C3%A9rodote/bhoutan-ultime-royaume-himalayen/t/1007131

Also, in Algeria and Morocco, the traditional women’s garment was (is it still?) the haik.

https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/N%C2%B03_HA%C3%8FK.jpg/2560px-N%C2%B03_HA%C3%8FK.jpg

Thanks Michel for this cultural tidbit 👍😃

We owe Michel a lot for the culture 🙂

And now I can hear you all from here: "Yeah, sure, the sea, the desert, the wadis, and the people are great, but where are the old stones? Where are the old stones?" Well, they’re right near Nizwa, so off we go.



We start with Harat Al Bilad heritage (bless you), an old ruined village in Omani Pompeii style—except there’s not a soul around!



No surprise, it’s closed!

While driving on the highway, we stumble upon a gigantic mosque and decide to visit it—but again, not a soul in sight.



No surprise, it’s closed too!!

Undeterred, we head to Jabreen Fort, one of the most beautiful in the country (and there are over 500 here!!), and—still no one around!!! But thankfully, it’s open.

Right at the entrance, we come across three stunning women in chadors getting their hands painted with henna. Yes, they’re there for tourists, and it’s perfect timing for me—I’m up for some foot art. It’s Fay, 26, who takes care of me—a true artist with delicate gestures, answering my questions in a soft, shy, and smiling voice.



We settle under a Bedouin tent, and while she works, I let my hair down to dry in the gentle breeze (yes, this tiny detail really matters, I swear!). She creates a pedicure masterpiece, and we wrap it up with a souvenir photo with her friends. And then—without even trying—I think I hit the photographic jackpot: It looks like a travel ad for Omani tolerance!!!



Vibe: "In Oman, come as you are" 😊

After that, we stop to feast near Bahla Fort.



And I end the day with a visit to Nizwa Fort.



Two hostesses greet me at the ticket counter, ask for my nationality, and then say in perfect French with big smiles, "Welcome!" followed by, "But your outfit isn’t appropriate!" Ugh, I didn’t bring the special long dress for mosques/forts! No problem—I’m not the first, and everything’s provided. So I put on what feels like 10 kg of lilac fabric (or close to it)... and promptly trip over it on every single step of the fort (and there are *so* many!!). Yeah, I know—no doubt about it, this is *not* my fashion week (see the tiny photo at the very bottom so I don’t ruin the whole vibe 😅).

When I’m tired of climbing all those stairs, I sit down and just people-watch.



It’s Friday, the Muslim world’s Sunday, so lots of locals are visiting from Muscat or elsewhere (kind of like a French person visiting Chambord). And honestly, it’s great to see these families together—because since we arrived, about 90% of the people we’ve seen have been men. But we’re not judging—here, that’s just how it is.

I find a viewpoint to wait for the sunset, and there’s a family there struggling to take a selfie—it’s tough fitting two adults and four kids in the frame. Dad and the boys are in jeans and T-shirts, the young girl is veiled, and the mom is in a full burka—I can only see her eyes. But check this out... her burka is *gold*. I offer to take their photo, and the girl asks where I’m from: "Ooooh, France! It’s the first time I’ve met a French person," she says. I ask her the same, and—Pakistan!!! So I gave her the same answer. You’ll never guess—when we were leaving the fort and they were a little far away, the whole family waved goodbye, including the mom!! So now Pakistan is on our travel list.

Then, while admiring the sunset over Nizwa, I meet Elisa.



She’s from Poland and speaks perfect French. And perfect English. And perfect German too! She’s clearly been traveling for a while, and when she tells me she saw the bullfights an hour from Muscat, I know I’m dealing with a real explorer. Few people know about it, let alone have seen that unique spectacle. We’re thrilled to invite Elisa to spend the evening with us and swap travel stories. So now Uganda and its chimpanzees are on our travel list too!!

And that’s how another beautiful day ends—with four French septuagenarians sitting at our table at the restaurant... who live in Dax, Pouillon, and Candresse, less than 10 km from our home! It was hilarious at first... Less so when, multiple times, the woman from Dax tapped my shoulder while I was deep in conversation with Elisa to ask me to explain every single dish on the menu!

I think she could use a lesson in Omani etiquette 😊.

Good evening

Pakistan, Uganda—watch out for your encounters, or you won’t have enough pages in your passport!! And not enough lifetimes to fill them 😅 That said, some beautiful encounters and the soul of a journey make it all worth it!

So I added Pakistan to our list of countries to visit.

So I added Uganda and its chimpanzees to our list of countries to visit!!

She’s from Poland and speaks perfect French.

So you didn’t add Poland? 😛

Poor thing, she’s giving us a great recap of her trip and all we remember is her travel list! 😂 Anyway, Dax seems like a place to avoid unless you’ve got armor 😅 But seriously, why not Poland? 🤔