Questions about Tamil Nadu and Kerala (page 2 of 4)

It's a real shame, Chettinad is truly a stunning region with treasures scattered a bit everywhere. It’s not really suited for a quick stop—you’ll want to spend a few days there and explore the countryside from different spots.

You know what they say—choosing means giving something up! 😛 But from now on, I’ll say, "We’ll make a stop in Chettinad." And once I’ve been to Chettinad, I’ll come back here to tell you all about it! 😉

Yeah, unfortunately travel always means making trade-offs. And I’d love to follow your travel journal, just like I did for Rajasthan—including your stop in Chettinad!

Same comment I made to Kate: why do you say "in Chettinad" as if it were a city when it's a region? It’s a bit like saying "I made a quick stop in Brittany, it was nice"...

😏 😉😇

Hi Kate, We were in India in 2017 and focused on Tamil Nadu, Kerala, and Karnataka. I think your itinerary might be a bit tight because getting around in India isn’t easy—even though we hired a driver who knew the region well and took us to some lesser-known spots. As for the beaches, it’s best to skip them. In Mamallapuram, my husband insisted on swimming despite the waves and ended up losing his glasses. The beaches are dirty, unsafe, and no one really swims there. That said, we loved watching the fishermen. We fell in love with the south of the country and some of its villages. Alleppey, Ooty and its train—it’s all about taking your time. Have a great trip and enjoy yourselves! Nad

Hi there,

I think your itinerary might be a bit tight because getting around in India isn’t easy, and yet we opted for a driver who knew the region and showed us some off-the-beaten-path spots.

Seven stops with three nights in each matches our trip’s goal: a circuit. I’ve heard worse in terms of pace ;) Thanks for the tip about Ooty—I hadn’t heard of it before.

hi there! yes, 7 stops with 3 nights in each is awesome. In Ooty, we were lucky enough to visit a park and meet some Gaurs (even the driver was thrilled). In Mysore, you *have* to see the Maharaja’s Palace. In Thanjavur, the Brihadeeswarar Temple is worth seeing at different times of day because the granite changes color. In Alleppey, you can watch snake-boat races with 100 rowers. Watch out for fake guides!!!!! The monkeys are mischievous too—one jumped into the car through a window, grabbed a cake, and bolted out another window while we were driving. Good laugh!

Hi Kate, In Kerala, by the coast, there’s Varkala. Sure, it’s touristy, but what a relaxing vibe walking along the cliff overlooking the beach, with plenty of little restaurants and handicraft shops. You can swim, but it’s not super comfortable because of the stares from the men.

Sandrine

Thanks Sandrine, but we won’t be going that far south. In any case, I’ll keep the place in mind since it seems you end up coming back to India multiple times! (This’ll be my 3rd time 😉)

It's true, we visit other countries but we keep coming back to India again and again ;)

Regarding the Mahabs hotel, I stayed there several years ago, most recently in 2017. It’s true that it had aged quite a bit, but the pool was still well maintained, and the layout of the floors with armchairs and a small outdoor table is really nice. Above all, its proximity on foot to the sights, the village, and the stone sculptors makes it a great base. However, I don’t know if the buses still park at the hotel exit—if they do, the rooms on that side are best avoided, as it gets noisy early in the morning.

Sandrine

Mahabs was mentioned on forums, but the info was old. Since the Booking reviews weren’t great, we went with Squirrel Guesthouse.

You can visit Darasuram and Gangaikondacholapuram on the way from Pondicherry to Tanjore.

These two temples are really nice and different from the other temples in the area. No weird, tacky colors...

I confirm. These two temples are stunning. Gangaikondacholapuram is a must-see.

Now that I "know" you a bit from reading your travel journal about Rajasthan, you absolutely mustn’t miss the forest temples dedicated to the god Ayyanar on your route. I think I recently posted an article and photos on my site since you’ve visited—unless it’s still a draft and not published? If so, I’ll post some photos here. There are also Jain cave temples in the same area. The rock-cut temple in Pudukkottai is amazing and a must-see.

Chettinad is EXTRAORDINARY! Want me to post photos here?

For incredible beaches, you’ve got to come to my place in Kannur, though it’s not at all on your itinerary. For example, just a few kilometers from Kannur, there’s "MA" beach. About 700 meters from my house, there’s a huge, deserted 5 km-long beach—spotless. I walk there every morning. Just a few fishermen casting their nets. The water is at 31°C. Sometimes it’s rough with waves, sometimes very calm—just a matter of luck and timing. One section is lifeguarded during peak Indian hours, between 4 PM and 7 PM. But they’re all clustered in the same spot at the entrance. Walk 50 meters left or right, and you’ll have the place to yourself. Occasionally, young couples—either pre-wedding or just married—come to get their photos taken. The outfits are *so* kitsch for the souvenir shots. Otherwise, it’s completely empty between 6 AM and 4 PM. I also know another beach a bit further north, on a sort of island. You have to cross the backwaters to get there, but I think it’s become more touristy lately, so it’s now frequented by Indian tourists.

And then there’s Theyyam here!!!

But it’s too far north of Kochi (Cochin) for your plans...

You really shouldn’t miss the forest temples dedicated to the god Ayyanar along your route. I think I recently posted an article and some photos on my site since you’ve visited it.

I browsed your site and Pagal’s travel journal at the same time. I can’t remember who’s talking about what anymore Where exactly are these forest temples in the woods?

The rock-cut temple in Pudukkottai is amazing and a must-see.

We’ll stop there—it’s on the route between Tanjore and Madurai, well, the scenic route that goes through the heart of Chettinad. We’ve also spotted a village, Kanadukathan, where we’d like to make a stop.

Chettinad is EXTRAORDINARY! Want me to share photos here?

Yes, please! That’d give us a preview since we haven’t included it in our itinerary (we’ll just be passing through).

Sure, I’d love that—it’ll give me an idea since we didn’t include it in our itinerary (we’re just passing through).

Pudukkottai and Kanadukathan are in Chettinad! Pudukkottai is the region’s second-largest city, really nice to visit, with some lovely temples in the countryside nearby, like those in Namunasamudram and Narthamalai. Kanadukathan is a village famous for its beautiful Chettiar merchant mansions (not too different from the havelis in Rajasthan) and some gorgeous rural temples in the area too.

You really shouldn’t miss the forest temples dedicated to the god Ayyanar along your route. I think I recently posted an article and some photos on my site, since you’ve visited it.

I was browsing your site and Pagal’s travel journal at the same time. I can’t remember who’s talking about what anymore Where exactly are these forest temples in the middle of the woods?

The rock-cut temple in Pudukkottai is amazing and a must-see.

We’ll definitely stop there—it’s on the route between Tanjore and Madurai, well, the scenic route that goes through the heart of Chettinad. We’ve also spotted a village, Kanadukathan, where we’d like to make a stop.

Chettinad is EXTRAORDINARY! Want me to share some photos here?

Yes, please! That’d give us a preview since we didn’t include it in our itinerary (we’ll just be passing through).

I was about to reply, but Pagal beat me to it... He and I often share the same favorites. I remember the stunning houses in Kanadukathan where the "less fortunate relatives" lived, guarding them in architectural splendor but with unreliable electricity and no running water or any kind of modern comfort.

Hi there, Three and a half weeks is enough to visit from Chennai to Kerala. Public transport is tiring. Especially avoid the electric bus—they’re so slow. The best option is a car with a driver. There are agencies that offer tailor-made packages including hotels. Alleppey wasn’t great in my opinion. Munnar, on the other hand, is a lively town with plenty of places to visit. I’d advise against swimming in the sea in a swimsuit. You’ll attract a lot of attention, and some spots have dangerous currents. Don’t skip Pondicherry. Weekends are the best time to go. Make sure to book your hotel in advance.

Hello, Three and a half weeks is enough to visit from Chennai to Kerala. Public transport is tiring. Especially, you should avoid the electric bus—it moves slowly. The best option is a car with a driver. There are agencies that offer tailor-made packages including hotels. Alleppey wasn’t great in my opinion. Munnar is a lively town with places to visit. I’d advise against swimming in the sea in a swimsuit. You’ll attract a lot of admirers, and some areas have dangerous currents. Don’t skip Pondicherry. Weekends are better. It’s best to book your hotel in advance.

Funny, these opinions... Almost everything said here is the opposite of what I’d say—and what I’d advise against... Goes to show, all our tips are very subjective. Good luck, Kate, with sorting it all out!

Three and a half weeks are enough to visit from Chennai to Kerala.

It’s a matter of perspective and how you travel. I don’t really agree, but it’s doable if you move a bit quickly.

Above all, avoid the electric bus—it goes really slow. The best option is a car with a driver.

The electric bus??

I’d advise against swimming in the sea in a swimsuit. You’ll attract a lot of attention, and some areas have dangerous currents.

It depends on where... There are still beaches where Western women wear swimsuits and people can swim.

Don’t skip Pondicherry. Weekends are better. You should book your hotel in advance.

I agree that Pondicherry is worth a visit. But "better on weekends"? That’s the worst time to explore Pondi: Indian tourists flood the city with their cars, it’s packed everywhere, and they’re drunk and loud in the streets and hotels at night. On weekends, Pondicherry turns into a crowded, noisy, and polluted Indian party.

You should book your hotel in advance.

Which hotel?

Your take is, shall we say, "subjective"—so take it with a grain of salt