A Month in Laos and Cambodia (page 2 of 6)

Every time we travel to a country with unpredictable healthcare access, my wife goes all "belt and suspenders" when it comes to packing the medicine kit.

Apart from my friend Mariel—who, in hindsight, probably gave us a mild case of COVID during the trip (I’ll come back to that)—the entire "intestinal" section of the suitcase 😷 pharmacy went unused. We were also careful about choosing restaurants. But even with street food, hygiene seemed better than on our previous trips. I think our stomachs have toughened up after so many travels, too.

What a joy that little beer-with-ice in the middle of a sweltering afternoon!!

TGV traversing Laos)

A TGV in Laos????

A TGV in Laos????

Well, not exactly a TGV since the trains on the new line inaugurated in 2021 don’t exceed 140 km/h, but it’s part of China’s new Silk Road initiative, aiming to connect China to Singapore. https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ligne_Boten_-_Vientiane

Streaming on France5, the excellent show *"Trains Like No Others"* talked about it this week.

China, the world’s new bulldozer! (Can you believe there was only one or two paved roads in Vientiane when I traveled there...🤪)

Hi Bruno, I’m joining you 😊 Laos and Cambodia—a fantastic trip we took back in 2014, already 10 years ago 😮 and a return to my husband’s roots since he was born in Vientiane 😊

Old-school style, with a good travel journal to pass the time until the next trip! Thanks! !

Wednesday 20th: Luang Prabang

Today was an excursion day. On the agenda: the Pak Ou Caves and the Kuang Si Waterfalls, two must-sees in the area. One is 30 km north of LP, the other 30 km south... All options were on the table—renting scooters, a private tuk-tuk, or buses. In the end, we went with the organized tour option through Manifa Travel. The price (35 USD) seemed fair.

We left the hotel at 08:00, and the tuk-tuk took us to the pier in 5 minutes for a 2-hour slow boat ride on the Mekong. There were 8 of us—no big crowd.



We made a quick stop along the way in a village to see how Lao Lao, the local homemade whiskey, is made. It was 09:00, so we just wet our lips... but it was a great chance to see some cute Laotian kids.



When we arrived at the caves, we climbed 300 steps to admire over 5,000 Buddhas left by locals over time.







A little shopping opportunity too ;)

Back on the boat, we sailed to the agency’s camp for lunch. Oh, we’d forgotten—they had a few elephants to show us. We took the obligatory photos, but ever since my first trip to Thailand in 2007 (where we saw them in a circus), I’ve always felt uneasy about it... Luckily, here, there was no riding—just a few bananas, and then they left. By van this time, a peaceful two-hour drive to the Kuang Si Falls. It wasn’t exactly a natural setting—we were struck by the crowd when we arrived at 16:30. The place was packed. Fortunately, we left at 18:00, so it was quieter by then. We had time to climb to the top of the falls, take a quick dip in the freezing water, and then head back to the van for the return trip to LP. That said, the site was stunning in the late-afternoon light...









We got back at 19:00. It had been a full day, but we still headed to the Night Market via the shuttle. All in all, the organized tour was a good choice—no logistics to worry about...

Thursday 21st, Friday 22nd: Nong Khiaw

Transfer day today—we’ve got a van at 9 AM to take us to Nong Khiaw, 150 km further north. 4 hours of pure chaos: the roads are wrecked, the driver’s a maniac, and the van’s ancient. On top of that, I board last and get stuck with the "jump seat." Result? Two vertebrae left behind in Laos 😉. Thankfully, arriving in Nong Khiaw eases the pain, especially since we’d booked ahead at La Ou River House—a floating barge with 6 rooms on the river, a peaceful haven at the village entrance. (FYI, $25 a night with breakfast.)



Today’s goal: find Mélissa, a young fellow Savoyard who set up a small NGO in LP and NK. She helps local village kids with their education, specifically English. Since I was traveling light, I had room in my checked luggage to bring her about 20 kg of school supplies—something we’d arranged beforehand. So, we unloaded our excess baggage, much to Mélissa’s delight. I even got to join in on a coloring class! 😉



Friday: Hiking Day.

Nong Khiaw is really a hub for trekking. It’s the starting point for tons of organized hikes, from day trips to week-long adventures. Agencies line the street, advertising their excursions. We kept it simple with a solo climb to NK viewpoint—500m elevation gain in the morning. Oh, and there’s a toll (1$), which turns out to be totally worth it since the trail is so well-maintained and marked. But *so* steep!! 1.5 hours later, with one lung left in Laos (seriously, I’m *way* too generous with my body here 😉), the view is absolutely stunning...

Saturday 23rd, Sunday 24th, and Monday 25th: Muang Ngoi

Today, we head even further north toward the Vietnamese border to the village of Muang Ngoi. A 2-hour slow boat ride up the Nam Ou—no other way, since the road is only passable by 4x4. The trip is pleasant; we’ll pass fishermen, buffaloes...

In Muang Ngoi, there’s no risk of getting lost—the village has just one street, lined with guesthouses and restaurants on either side, plus a few roosters to welcome us. A few roosters and Gabriel, a Swede married to a Lao woman, our host for these two nights at Riverview GH ($20 a night with breakfast).





A balcony Christmas?

Sunday 24th: A day exploring the area. There are plenty of treks available, but we prefer going solo. We end up taking a walk (25 km, no less...) through the surrounding countryside, discovering nearby villages. We’re well briefed by our host and guided by Maps.me. Here, in the heart of Laos’ mountains, no one speaks English, but it’s still a chance for some great encounters—sharing a cigarette, for example...













Monday 25th: Return to Luang Prabang

No time to celebrate Baby Jesus—we’ve got a long transfer day ahead, and we’re dreading it after the trip here... But it wasn’t bad at all! We left by slow boat at 9 AM, disembarked in Nong Khiaw 1.5 hours later, and squeezed into a brand-new van with eight other people. Our respectful driver dropped us off in Luang Prabang by 4 PM, perfectly relaxed. One experience replaces another... We end the day quietly in LP, pick up our big backpacks, and tomorrow, we’ve got an early flight to Pakse in good spirits!!

Gorgeous landscapes north of Luang Prabang! !😎

Tourist pressure must be really light given how hard it is to get there. Don’t tell me the Chinese are already building a highway there yet. 😠

True, access isn’t straightforward, though it’s perfectly organized. It’s still a tourist area, but focused on trekking and hiking, so you won’t run into many Chinese folks here 😄. Ultimately, there were very few people when we were there, but you could tell it’s still developing (the road under construction in the photo is proof of that)

A little walk .... 25 km 🏴‍☠️

It's really beautiful, anyway

Tuesday 26th: On the way to Pakse

Finally, it’s mostly a flight to Pakse, on an early morning flight with Lao Airlines (60 € pp booked in advance). Our hosts handle the transfer from the airport again, and we’re staying at the Garden Hotel ($50 a night with breakfast), chosen mainly for its pool—a rare find in Pakse. The day is spent resting, taking care of logistics (laundry, scooters, banking, etc.), and prepping for the next few days. For more freedom—and since I’m pretty comfortable with this kind of ride—we’ve decided to travel by 125cc scooter for the next four days, with no set plan other than Champassak and the 4,000 Islands, following the Mekong’s flow...



In the evening, we take the free shuttle to the city center and wander toward the market. Dinner is at the Pakse Hotel & Restaurant (the go-to spot for all the town’s tourists). Pakse isn’t exactly an extraordinary city, but it’s a great base for exploring the area.

Wednesday 27th: Champassak and Wat Phou

This morning, a relaxed breakfast—my motorbike was delivered straight to the hotel. Just a small backpack for a few days, and off we go to Champassak, my wife clinging on behind me, hair in the wind... Well, under the helmet and with jeans and a jacket because we only have one skin!

First stop after a few minutes: we crossed the Mekong on the Lao-Nippon Bridge (yep, that’s right...) and left the main road for quieter routes. We overlook the Mekong from Wat Phousalao and its magnificent Buddha, accessible via 350 steps (or a small road that goes around the back 😉).







Then, about forty kilometers along the Mekong, with a few photo stops, and we arrive in Champassak. Before visiting Wat Phou, we find a guesthouse by the water, exclusively occupied by locals, where we’ll drop our bags for $10 a night including breakfast. Given the heat, we’ll wait until late afternoon to visit Wat Phou, just a few minutes from the guesthouse.

Wat Phou, to keep it short, is a complex of Khmer ruins built by the same king who constructed Angkor. History tells us that back then, a road led directly to the Angkor Wat site, even though Wat Phou is much older. We arrive at 4 PM—let’s just say the place is deserted, and we can enjoy it in complete tranquility until closing (despite the rumbling clouds).













Then back to the guesthouse, where we’ll enjoy the evening by the water (and the voracious mosquitoes...).

Thursday 28th to Saturday 30th: The 4000 Islands

Because the decision is made today: we're heading down to the 4000 Islands by motorbike! Not a small trip—100 km to cover in a day, so we'll be leaving at the crack of dawn. First, we'll need to cross the Mekong again to reach Highway 13, this time by boat, and we're not exactly thrilled about the transport option...



We'll arrive leisurely in Nakasong, the maritime gateway to Don Det Island, the most peaceful of the 4000, since cars are banned. Not without pushing on to Khone Phapheng Waterfalls, nicknamed the Niagara of the Mekong, given how impressive the flow can be. The flow, maybe, but not the height... Well, leisurely but with our butts wrecked because over 100 km on a scooter in one day—you leave a piece of yourself in Laos (but what generosity with my body!!)





Arriving in Nakasong, then—the ferry will be a bit more secure, and the island's only road will take us to one of the few guesthouses with a pool on Don Khon Island, Pan's Guesthouse ($30 a night).







For us here, it’ll be two days of chilling and relaxing on this island that breathes happiness and the sweet life... Pool, restaurants, walks, visits to the many waterfalls—the tranquility is so nice that we’ll even shake up our future plans.









Because the plan was to welcome our friends who arrive this Saturday at 10 AM in Pakse, with a reservation at the Jardin Hotel to meet up. But they’ll have time to rest since it’s in the late afternoon, after the loooong ride from Don Det, that we’ll join them. For new adventures, as a foursome this time!!!

It's all well and good. But the pace is relentless—you've barely finished reading one post when another pops up!

That’s all well and good, but the pace is insane—you barely finish reading one post and another pops up!

It’s the perk of working (exceptionally) nights—you get a quiet day! But that’s all for today! 😅

Small backpack for a few days, here we go to Champassak, my wife clinging behind me, hair in the wind...

Wow! What an adventure! 😏😉

Sunday 31st, Monday 1st January: Happy New Year!!

A new year to continue this trip, but also a new dynamic: there are four of us now! And even though I know they’re very flexible, I’m feeling the pressure! 😉

We’ll even start with a change of plans: I had in mind another Laos "must-see," the Bolaven Plateau, easily accessible by motorbike for two nights. But we were so charmed by Don Det that we want to take Mariel and Naty (M&N for short) there. So, with their agreement (though they’ll always agree in reality...), it’ll be a quick two-day, one-night loop.

We’ll pick up our second scooter and all the tips that go with it from Miss Noy’s—a Belgian who’s been specializing in scooter rentals for ages—to do the "little" loop in two days (search "Miss Noy Pakse" on Google; he’s great, with a caustic sense of humor that might rub some the wrong way, but not me).



So, we set off this Sunday morning after a hearty breakfast, our big backpacks stored at Jardin Hotel, and a good night’s sleep to recover from the jet lag for our friends who arrived the day before...

First stop at Mr. Vieng’s, 56 km from Pakse, after a quick detour to the waterfalls along the way on an easy, not-too-busy road. Mr. Vieng owns a modest guesthouse but, more importantly, a lush vegetable garden and a coffee plantation. For a few kips, he’ll share his passions and let you taste everything he grows—including insects 🤪. We’ll also join in the community cassava sorting, much to the amusement of the locals. The family business is well-oiled, very pleasant, and we’ll take the opportunity to have lunch there.





. A few kilometers north, at Km 86, our second stop is Tad Lo Waterfalls, already crowded on this New Year’s Eve afternoon. The site is stunning, but you can tell everything’s set up for a big party tonight. The noise level already takes away some of the magic, but we’ll take the time to cool off—the heat is stifling. And with techno music, please! 😄





. But the afternoon flies by, and we’re expected in Thateng at Somphone Homestay Guesthouse—certainly one of the most memorable moments of our trip. And that deserves its own post.

Somphone Homestay

Mr. Som and his wife Tak run a community homestay. I came across it on a Facebook page, and we booked via WhatsApp. For 150,000 Kips (6.5 €) per person, they provide accommodation and meals, excluding drinks. But tonight’s New Year’s Eve, and they’re pulling out all the stops—a goat we saw earlier won’t survive the feast—and the night will be loooong with much of his family, his adorable daughter, and a few fellow travelers. A perfect introduction for M&N (Mariel & Naty, I won’t say it again) who wanted to experience Asia. They got exactly that: basic comfort, sure, but more than made up for by our hosts’ kindness. Imagine this: I’d asked Mariel to pack a good bottle of Bordeaux in her suitcase, and we introduced our hosts to what Pauillac 2013 really means...

The guesthouse



Basic...



Room with a terrace



Toasting with Som



And just picture this: in return for our national drink, Som insisted on treating us to his best Lao Lao... Needless to say, the night was short, and the morning after was rough. On New Year’s Day, we passed on Som’s coffee plantation tour and opted for a morning walk around the community instead.