A Month in Laos and Cambodia

Sunday, December 17th – Luang Prabang:

Let’s dive right in with our arrival around noon at LP airport. The flight went smoothly—Geneva/Abu Dhabi/Bangkok/LP, three flights all operated by Etihad. There’s always a bit of stress when getting the visa, but we had our photo and $40 in cash, so it was done quickly. Our first hotel for four nights, "My Dream Boutique Resort" (a 15-minute walk from the city center), kindly offered us a transfer, so we settled right into our suite with a semi-private pool . Might as well tell you straight away—this time back in Asia, we’re splurging on accommodations, and with these prices, why not? 55 € a night with breakfast is a great way to start!



A good shower, a quick nap, and off we went to explore this former capital. It’s the picture of an Asian city—lots of scooters, lots of white vans signaling busy tourism, but everything’s on a human scale, so it works for us. We’re even loving this mix of peaceful and frenetic energy.

By 4:30 PM, the night market—a string of small stalls—was setting up. We wandered through, met with plenty of smiles, and found the people really friendly. At 8 PM, the street food stalls in the central square fired up their grills—time for our first Laotian meal. 3.68 € for two, drinks included. Fresh, tasty, we’re hooked! But jet lag caught up with us, so we didn’t stay out late. The hotel’s free shuttle (two runs per evening) whisked us back to our room...



Street food

Monday 18th: Luang Prabang

Our first real day in Laos!! We had a full breakfast at the hotel, overlooking the Nam Khan River, which flows into the Mekong. We planned to cross it for a little bike ride through the surrounding countryside. The bikes provided by the hotel weren’t brand new, but they’d definitely do the job. Following a "side step" suggestion (as they call it) from the guidebook, we crossed the Mekong on a local ferry and found ourselves in the countryside. Hardly anyone around—we stopped at a pottery village, then wandered along a forest path to discover a series of temples, all visitable after a small contribution paid at the first one.



The path ended at a monastery with a stunning view of Luang Prabang and the Mekong. I took the chance to chat with a monk—who spoke perfect English—to learn about his life and his country.





Back at the hotel in the afternoon to enjoy the pool—it was hot, really hot. Dinner was at the hotel, and it was another kind of adventure: the chef worked wonders!!

Tuesday 19th: Luang Prabang city

Today, there’s no escaping it—we’re exploring the city! Fortunately, it’s so human-scale that we can easily hop back on our bikes to get around. We made a quick stop at a travel agency to book our visit for the next day and our transfer for Thursday, then set off to explore the many temples in town—though I’ll spare you the details. Wat after Wat everywhere, all really interesting. In the afternoon, we visited the "must-see" Royal Palace, with its delightfully kitsch side that we loved, then planned to climb Mount Phousi at the end of the day—the temple perched above the historic district. Well, that was the plan, anyway, because the heat made us give up on the 200 or so steps to reach the temple… We rescheduled for the evening, but plans are always flexible! And I’ll admit right now that we left Laos without ever making it up Mount Phousi (Shame, shame, shame ).

So, back at 3 PM for a quick dip, and we only returned to the historic center in the evening to enjoy the night market’s atmosphere and street food again.

A few snapshots of the center:







To jump straight to the next part, it’s

HERE

Hi there,

Ten years after my trip to northern Laos and my travel journal on VF, I’m really curious to see what you’ll share. Especially since you’ve chosen the same stops and the same hotel—I have great memories of it. Looks like the trip was well planned!

For Laos, is the food still that good, and are prices still a bit too high for what you get, with little room to negotiate?

Hi Joël, and thanks for following along—but I’ll admit, now I’m feeling the pressure with a sector specialist around! 😅

Right off the bat, I’ll confirm that we loved the food in Laos (as long as you take a quick look before diving into the first restaurant you see). Always fresh, always paired with subtle spices, and very often at prices that beat the competition hands down!

For services, we rarely used agencies, and the prices always seemed fair. That said, it’s worth noting the major devaluation the kip has recently undergone, which they’re struggling to reflect in pricing. On the other hand, you’re right—negotiations (outside of tuk-tuks) are pretty much nonexistent. Looking forward to the rest!

I'm heading to these destinations I don't know yet.

From my experience in a restaurant, Lao food is really good but it’s spicy!

Always fresh

Maybe now, but 20 years ago, definitely not—look at the mega traveler’s diarrhea I caught there! !

I’d still happily board an Air Montagnard flight, even though I don’t think I’ll ever go back to either of those countries (I made the mistake of planning Angkor again and really regretted it... so much so that I never returned to Laos...)

Oh, this travel journal is perfect timing! [;)] A Laos/Cambodia combo is in my plans. I was actually wondering how to build the itinerary I had in mind, ending with Koh Rong Sanloem. Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on that island! I’ve already been to Cambodia and want to go back, but I figured it’d be more practical and way cheaper to fly into Bangkok...

Cool, the first travel journal on this forum since Covid—I’m in too! :)

I'm heading to these destinations I don't know yet.

Laotian food, based on my experience in a restaurant, is really good but it packs a punch

Thanks Régis for following me here. I found the meals spicier in Cambodia than in Laos, but it’s nothing compared to Thailand—almost inedible if you don’t warn them…

Still fresh

Maybe now, but 20 years ago, definitely not—considering the mega-traveler’s diarrhea I caught there!

I’d happily board that Air Montagnard flight again, even though I don’t think I’ll ever return to either of those countries (I made the mistake of going back to Angkor and really regretted it... so much so that I never went back to Laos...)

I figured Agnès would chime in—thanks for keeping up with me. I didn’t quite get your message—did you go back to Angkor?

Oh, this travel journal is perfect timing! [;)] The Laos/Cambodia combo is in my plans. I was actually wondering how to build the itinerary I wanted to end with Koh Rong Sanloem. Can't wait to hear your thoughts on that island! I’ve already been to Cambodia and want to go back, but I thought it’d be more practical and way cheaper to land in Bangkok...

No worries, I hope I can cover everything you’re looking for! 😊 Landing in BKK if you’re starting with Cambodia makes sense. But since we were traveling for 15 days as a pair, we had to start in northern Laos. So, I just held my nose and booked the tickets 😅

Cool, the first travel journal on this forum since Covid—I’m in too! :)

Hi Erwan, and thanks for following along. Now I’ve got double the pressure: an expert *and* a local! 😅

Two drafts, one Lao and one Cambodia, got it! !

Yes, I went to Cambodia and Laos in the early 2000s. Not everything was possible back then—far from it—and there were still armed guards at some Cambodian sites. The shock when I returned to Angkor just 10 years later...

A site, a country can develop *very* quickly these days.

When you’ve seen it before, the "after" can turn out to be, uhhh, not as great.

Wow, no pressure! Just super happy you're sharing a travel journal with us! !

For the past 10 years, there’s been competition among airlines for the BKK - Siem Reap route, and it no longer costs an arm and a leg. It saves you the whole hassle of buses, taxis, and border crossings—unless things have changed. With the visa issued right at the border post, there’s a nice VIP feel to it. I’m not pushing air travel, but in some cases, it really adds value.

I don’t know if things have improved, but health-wise, you had to be careful with food and drinks in Cambodia, where lots of travelers picked up something minor. Mostly because, unlike neighboring countries, the ice was made with tap water.

In Cambodia, for quite a few years now, all the ice blocks used as ice cubes are manufactured and sterilized in ice factories and distributed every morning from shop to shop. Even in remote villages. And every family that wants to keep meat or vegetables fresh buys ice for 500 or 1,000 riels. It’s true that before, we tended to only trust hollow ice cubes! Afterwards, when you stop for a beer at a small roadside shop and it’s not cold, it can happen that the ice cubes are broken directly from a block of ice that’s been in contact with raw meat in the cooler. There’s little risk of getting sick from it (I’ve downed plenty of beers with ice here over the years, after all [:)] ), but all it takes is one time or a stomach that’s not used to it...

This was the hot topic during our stay in Siem Reap—the new airport (code SIA), financed by the Chinese and inaugurated at the end of October. Some praised this new facility, saying it would boost tourist numbers (as if there weren’t already enough people), while others lamented the Chinese control over access (much like the TGV crossing Laos). Everyone agreed on one thing: the parking fees skyrocketed the cost of taxis to and from the airport (from what I recall, no less than $50).

Every time we travel to a country with unpredictable healthcare access, my wife goes all "belt and suspenders" when it comes to packing the medicine kit.

Apart from my friend Mariel—who, in hindsight, probably gave us a mild case of COVID during the trip (I’ll come back to that)—the entire "intestinal" section of the suitcase 😷 pharmacy went unused. We were also careful about choosing restaurants. But even with street food, hygiene seemed better than on our previous trips. I think our stomachs have toughened up after so many travels, too.

What a joy that little beer-with-ice in the middle of a sweltering afternoon!!

TGV traversing Laos)

A TGV in Laos????

A TGV in Laos????

Well, not exactly a TGV since the trains on the new line inaugurated in 2021 don’t exceed 140 km/h, but it’s part of China’s new Silk Road initiative, aiming to connect China to Singapore. https://fr.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ligne_Boten_-_Vientiane

Streaming on France5, the excellent show *"Trains Like No Others"* talked about it this week.

China, the world’s new bulldozer! (Can you believe there was only one or two paved roads in Vientiane when I traveled there...)

Hi Bruno, I’m joining you 😊 Laos and Cambodia—a fantastic trip we took back in 2014, already 10 years ago 😮 and a return to my husband’s roots since he was born in Vientiane 😊

Old-school style, with a good travel journal to pass the time until the next trip! Thanks! !

Wednesday 20th: Luang Prabang

Today was an excursion day. On the agenda: the Pak Ou Caves and the Kuang Si Waterfalls, two must-sees in the area. One is 30 km north of LP, the other 30 km south... All options were on the table—renting scooters, a private tuk-tuk, or buses. In the end, we went with the organized tour option through Manifa Travel. The price (35 USD) seemed fair.

We left the hotel at 08:00, and the tuk-tuk took us to the pier in 5 minutes for a 2-hour slow boat ride on the Mekong. There were 8 of us—no big crowd.



We made a quick stop along the way in a village to see how Lao Lao, the local homemade whiskey, is made. It was 09:00, so we just wet our lips... but it was a great chance to see some cute Laotian kids.



When we arrived at the caves, we climbed 300 steps to admire over 5,000 Buddhas left by locals over time.







A little shopping opportunity too ;)

Back on the boat, we sailed to the agency’s camp for lunch. Oh, we’d forgotten—they had a few elephants to show us. We took the obligatory photos, but ever since my first trip to Thailand in 2007 (where we saw them in a circus), I’ve always felt uneasy about it... Luckily, here, there was no riding—just a few bananas, and then they left. By van this time, a peaceful two-hour drive to the Kuang Si Falls. It wasn’t exactly a natural setting—we were struck by the crowd when we arrived at 16:30. The place was packed. Fortunately, we left at 18:00, so it was quieter by then. We had time to climb to the top of the falls, take a quick dip in the freezing water, and then head back to the van for the return trip to LP. That said, the site was stunning in the late-afternoon light...









We got back at 19:00. It had been a full day, but we still headed to the Night Market via the shuttle. All in all, the organized tour was a good choice—no logistics to worry about...

Thursday 21st, Friday 22nd: Nong Khiaw

Transfer day today—we’ve got a van at 9 AM to take us to Nong Khiaw, 150 km further north. 4 hours of pure chaos: the roads are wrecked, the driver’s a maniac, and the van’s ancient. On top of that, I board last and get stuck with the "jump seat." Result? Two vertebrae left behind in Laos [;)]. Thankfully, arriving in Nong Khiaw eases the pain, especially since we’d booked ahead at La Ou River House—a floating barge with 6 rooms on the river, a peaceful haven at the village entrance. (FYI, $25 a night with breakfast.)



Today’s goal: find Mélissa, a young fellow Savoyard who set up a small NGO in LP and NK. She helps local village kids with their education, specifically English. Since I was traveling light, I had room in my checked luggage to bring her about 20 kg of school supplies—something we’d arranged beforehand. So, we unloaded our excess baggage, much to Mélissa’s delight. I even got to join in on a coloring class! [;)]



Friday: Hiking Day.

Nong Khiaw is really a hub for trekking. It’s the starting point for tons of organized hikes, from day trips to week-long adventures. Agencies line the street, advertising their excursions. We kept it simple with a solo climb to NK viewpoint—500m elevation gain in the morning. Oh, and there’s a toll (1$), which turns out to be totally worth it since the trail is so well-maintained and marked. But *so* steep!! 1.5 hours later, with one lung left in Laos (seriously, I’m *way* too generous with my body here [;)]), the view is absolutely stunning...

Saturday 23rd, Sunday 24th, and Monday 25th: Muang Ngoi

Today, we head even further north toward the Vietnamese border to the village of Muang Ngoi. A 2-hour slow boat ride up the Nam Ou—no other way, since the road is only passable by 4x4. The trip is pleasant; we’ll pass fishermen, buffaloes...

In Muang Ngoi, there’s no risk of getting lost—the village has just one street, lined with guesthouses and restaurants on either side, plus a few roosters to welcome us. A few roosters and Gabriel, a Swede married to a Lao woman, our host for these two nights at Riverview GH ($20 a night with breakfast).





A balcony Christmas?

Sunday 24th: A day exploring the area. There are plenty of treks available, but we prefer going solo. We end up taking a walk (25 km, no less...) through the surrounding countryside, discovering nearby villages. We’re well briefed by our host and guided by Maps.me. Here, in the heart of Laos’ mountains, no one speaks English, but it’s still a chance for some great encounters—sharing a cigarette, for example...













Monday 25th: Return to Luang Prabang

No time to celebrate Baby Jesus—we’ve got a long transfer day ahead, and we’re dreading it after the trip here... But it wasn’t bad at all! We left by slow boat at 9 AM, disembarked in Nong Khiaw 1.5 hours later, and squeezed into a brand-new van with eight other people. Our respectful driver dropped us off in Luang Prabang by 4 PM, perfectly relaxed. One experience replaces another... We end the day quietly in LP, pick up our big backpacks, and tomorrow, we’ve got an early flight to Pakse in good spirits!!

Gorgeous landscapes north of Luang Prabang! !

Tourist pressure must be really light given how hard it is to get there. Don’t tell me the Chinese are already building a highway there yet.

True, access isn’t straightforward, though it’s perfectly organized. It’s still a tourist area, but focused on trekking and hiking, so you won’t run into many Chinese folks here 😄. Ultimately, there were very few people when we were there, but you could tell it’s still developing (the road under construction in the photo is proof of that)

A little walk .... 25 km

It's really beautiful, anyway

Tuesday 26th: On the way to Pakse

Finally, it’s mostly a flight to Pakse, on an early morning flight with Lao Airlines (60 € pp booked in advance). Our hosts handle the transfer from the airport again, and we’re staying at the Garden Hotel ($50 a night with breakfast), chosen mainly for its pool—a rare find in Pakse. The day is spent resting, taking care of logistics (laundry, scooters, banking, etc.), and prepping for the next few days. For more freedom—and since I’m pretty comfortable with this kind of ride—we’ve decided to travel by 125cc scooter for the next four days, with no set plan other than Champassak and the 4,000 Islands, following the Mekong’s flow...



In the evening, we take the free shuttle to the city center and wander toward the market. Dinner is at the Pakse Hotel & Restaurant (the go-to spot for all the town’s tourists). Pakse isn’t exactly an extraordinary city, but it’s a great base for exploring the area.

Wednesday 27th: Champassak and Wat Phou

This morning, a relaxed breakfast—my motorbike was delivered straight to the hotel. Just a small backpack for a few days, and off we go to Champassak, my wife clinging on behind me, hair in the wind... Well, under the helmet and with jeans and a jacket because we only have one skin!

First stop after a few minutes: we crossed the Mekong on the Lao-Nippon Bridge (yep, that’s right...) and left the main road for quieter routes. We overlook the Mekong from Wat Phousalao and its magnificent Buddha, accessible via 350 steps (or a small road that goes around the back [;)]).







Then, about forty kilometers along the Mekong, with a few photo stops, and we arrive in Champassak. Before visiting Wat Phou, we find a guesthouse by the water, exclusively occupied by locals, where we’ll drop our bags for $10 a night including breakfast. Given the heat, we’ll wait until late afternoon to visit Wat Phou, just a few minutes from the guesthouse.

Wat Phou, to keep it short, is a complex of Khmer ruins built by the same king who constructed Angkor. History tells us that back then, a road led directly to the Angkor Wat site, even though Wat Phou is much older. We arrive at 4 PM—let’s just say the place is deserted, and we can enjoy it in complete tranquility until closing (despite the rumbling clouds).













Then back to the guesthouse, where we’ll enjoy the evening by the water (and the voracious mosquitoes...).

Thursday 28th to Saturday 30th: The 4000 Islands

Because the decision is made today: we're heading down to the 4000 Islands by motorbike! Not a small trip—100 km to cover in a day, so we'll be leaving at the crack of dawn. First, we'll need to cross the Mekong again to reach Highway 13, this time by boat, and we're not exactly thrilled about the transport option...



We'll arrive leisurely in Nakasong, the maritime gateway to Don Det Island, the most peaceful of the 4000, since cars are banned. Not without pushing on to Khone Phapheng Waterfalls, nicknamed the Niagara of the Mekong, given how impressive the flow can be. The flow, maybe, but not the height... Well, leisurely but with our butts wrecked because over 100 km on a scooter in one day—you leave a piece of yourself in Laos (but what generosity with my body!!)





Arriving in Nakasong, then—the ferry will be a bit more secure, and the island's only road will take us to one of the few guesthouses with a pool on Don Khon Island, Pan's Guesthouse ($30 a night).







For us here, it’ll be two days of chilling and relaxing on this island that breathes happiness and the sweet life... Pool, restaurants, walks, visits to the many waterfalls—the tranquility is so nice that we’ll even shake up our future plans.









Because the plan was to welcome our friends who arrive this Saturday at 10 AM in Pakse, with a reservation at the Jardin Hotel to meet up. But they’ll have time to rest since it’s in the late afternoon, after the loooong ride from Don Det, that we’ll join them. For new adventures, as a foursome this time!!!

It's all well and good. But the pace is relentless—you've barely finished reading one post when another pops up!

That’s all well and good, but the pace is insane—you barely finish reading one post and another pops up!

It’s the perk of working (exceptionally) nights—you get a quiet day! But that’s all for today! 😅

Small backpack for a few days, here we go to Champassak, my wife clinging behind me, hair in the wind...

Wow! What an adventure! [;)]

Sunday 31st, Monday 1st January: Happy New Year!!

A new year to continue this trip, but also a new dynamic: there are four of us now! And even though I know they’re very flexible, I’m feeling the pressure! [;)]

We’ll even start with a change of plans: I had in mind another Laos "must-see," the Bolaven Plateau, easily accessible by motorbike for two nights. But we were so charmed by Don Det that we want to take Mariel and Naty (M&N for short) there. So, with their agreement (though they’ll always agree in reality...), it’ll be a quick two-day, one-night loop.

We’ll pick up our second scooter and all the tips that go with it from Miss Noy’s—a Belgian who’s been specializing in scooter rentals for ages—to do the "little" loop in two days (search "Miss Noy Pakse" on Google; he’s great, with a caustic sense of humor that might rub some the wrong way, but not me).



So, we set off this Sunday morning after a hearty breakfast, our big backpacks stored at Jardin Hotel, and a good night’s sleep to recover from the jet lag for our friends who arrived the day before...

First stop at Mr. Vieng’s, 56 km from Pakse, after a quick detour to the waterfalls along the way on an easy, not-too-busy road. Mr. Vieng owns a modest guesthouse but, more importantly, a lush vegetable garden and a coffee plantation. For a few kips, he’ll share his passions and let you taste everything he grows—including insects . We’ll also join in the community cassava sorting, much to the amusement of the locals. The family business is well-oiled, very pleasant, and we’ll take the opportunity to have lunch there.





. A few kilometers north, at Km 86, our second stop is Tad Lo Waterfalls, already crowded on this New Year’s Eve afternoon. The site is stunning, but you can tell everything’s set up for a big party tonight. The noise level already takes away some of the magic, but we’ll take the time to cool off—the heat is stifling. And with techno music, please!





. But the afternoon flies by, and we’re expected in Thateng at Somphone Homestay Guesthouse—certainly one of the most memorable moments of our trip. And that deserves its own post.

Somphone Homestay

Mr. Som and his wife Tak run a community homestay. I came across it on a Facebook page, and we booked via WhatsApp. For 150,000 Kips (6.5 €) per person, they provide accommodation and meals, excluding drinks. But tonight’s New Year’s Eve, and they’re pulling out all the stops—a goat we saw earlier won’t survive the feast—and the night will be loooong with much of his family, his adorable daughter, and a few fellow travelers. A perfect introduction for M&N (Mariel & Naty, I won’t say it again) who wanted to experience Asia. They got exactly that: basic comfort, sure, but more than made up for by our hosts’ kindness. Imagine this: I’d asked Mariel to pack a good bottle of Bordeaux in her suitcase, and we introduced our hosts to what Pauillac 2013 really means...

The guesthouse



Basic...



Room with a terrace



Toasting with Som



And just picture this: in return for our national drink, Som insisted on treating us to his best Lao Lao... Needless to say, the night was short, and the morning after was rough. On New Year’s Day, we passed on Som’s coffee plantation tour and opted for a morning walk around the community instead.

Monday 1st and Tuesday 2nd: Return to Pakse and Don Det again

Yep, we’ve got to head back to Pakse, not without making a few stops along the way—this road winds through the mountains and ends at the three most beautiful waterfalls (all with paid entry), though only one is swimmable. We won’t miss out, and it’s late afternoon by the time we drop off the motorbikes, a bit wiped out, to be honest. We’ll spend the night at Champassak Hotel, since Jardin Hotel is full—it’s this massive, soulless hotel built on the outskirts of town by the Chinese, for the Chinese. But the beds are big, the showers are huge, and we really need to scrub up [;)]





The porter’s face when he saw us arrive . Friday morning, we’re off to Don Det again, this time in a shared van. We’ll show our fellow travelers this gorgeous little island—its waterfalls, its bars—though we’ve already seen it all, so no need to do it again [;)]





I’m no vet, but if you ask me, this cat we ran into during an apéro isn’t just drinking milk

it’s brilliant, with a caustic sense of humor that might bother some, but not me).

That doesn’t surprise me—I’d noticed that too [;)]

Hahaha, how awful! Poor thing

Congrats on the photo of the man sorting cassava—his shadow really does look like a crocodile!

Congrats on the photo of the man sorting the cassava: his shadow really does look like a crocodile!

Amazing! In this case, it’s Mr. Vieng and it’s coffee drying, but great observation, Joël! 👍

Wednesday 3rd to Sunday 7th: Siem Reap

Today, we have to say goodbye to Laos. After being spooked by our first transfer in Luang Prabang, the 9-hour journey advertised made us give up on the shared van between Don Det and Siem Reap. The advantage of being four is that we can split the transport costs. We’ll splurge a little, so we’ll be taking a private van for our trip, which will feel more like a leisurely ride.

We’re also treating ourselves to a luxury stay in Siem Reap, as our driver will drop us off at Hari Residence & Spa. Perfectly located on the edge of the city center, with a spa, rooftop pool, and all for 50 € a night, the welcome and services are top-notch.





Our stay in Siem Reap was all about the classics, but the heavyweights! This was my first visit to this major tourist hotspot, and I was worried about the crowds. But having a French-speaking guide for three days (another perk of being a group of four) might’ve helped us experience the sites without feeling the tourist crush. Or maybe it’s just that in early January, the crowds had thinned out.

Sum Narong, found on social media, was our guide for the day. Classic itinerary: Day 1: The small circuit. Day 2: Tonle Sap and the floating villages, local market. Day 3: The grand circuit.



There are plenty of travel journals covering these spots, so I won’t dwell on them. Here are a few iconic photos:









I’d rather highlight two evenings we particularly enjoyed:

Phare, the Cambodian Circus To describe the school, here’s an excerpt from their website: "More than just a circus, Phare’s artists use theater, music, dance, and modern circus arts to tell unique Cambodian stories—historical, folkloric, and contemporary. The young circus artists will amaze you with their energy, emotion, enthusiasm, and talent, making Phare Circus the most popular modern cultural show in Siem Reap. The Phare artists are students and graduates of the Phare Ponleu Selpak ( ) vocational training center." An incredible discovery—this show blends tradition, modernity, and humor. Don’t hesitate: https://pharecircus.org/



. Apsara Theatre at Angkor Village

A bit pricier ($34), but this dinner show is top-quality, focusing on traditional Khmer Apsara dances. The theater is stunning, the meal is refined, and the dances and costumes are exceptional. It’s like seeing the Angkor frescoes come to life from our daytime visits.

https://apsaratheatre.asia/



. Sunday was a more relaxed day—exploring the city center, shopping, and chilling by the hotel pool. Sunday evening, we’re off to Sihanoukville with a surprise for our friends: a night bus transfer, another must-do on an Asia trip!!

Day 2, Tonle Sap and the floating villages, local market

Hey, did you do it by boat for 2 people? Which agency/organization?

without feeling the tourist pressure

It wasn’t so much the tourist pressure that made me regret returning to Angkor (I went during the Christmas holidays—I knew exactly what to expect… ) as the transformation of the site and Siem Reap.

The main downside for crowds is sunset. The site is big enough to spread people out...

What I miss is the Indiana Jones vibe. [:)] It couldn’t last, of course, since the lack of tourist control for a few years damaged parts of the site (like the stairs leading to Phnom Bakheng, for example). So, it became necessary to block off certain temple areas and build wooden walkways.

Back in the day, everything was open. There were just the temples—no installations except a few ropes to help climb to the top of Angkor Wat.

You could almost feel like a 19th-century explorer, except for the entrance fees in dollars, the picnicking Laotians, the kids on bikes, and the *moto dop* (no tuk-tuks—just a regular motorbike with as many people on it as there were customers...) waiting for the two tourists they’d picked up in "town."

I think you’ve experienced something similar in parts of Laos—places just starting to open up to tourism but still wild. [:)]

Your post made me add Laos back to my wishlist. Though without Luang Prabang, Vientiane, or spots overrun with techno… [;)]

Day 2, Tonle Sap and the floating villages, local market

Hey, did you do it by boat for 2 people? Which agency/organizer?

Well, the tricky question because I had booked a "package" with a guide that included everything: tuk-tuk, driver, guide, entry to the villages, and boat ($65 pp). Except for meals and the 3-day Angkor pass ($62).

In the foreground, our boat—just for the four of us

Okay, I understand better now. We heard a lot during our stay about the major renovations done on the site during COVID, which had stripped the place of its soul... I get your feeling—I’ve felt it many times during repeat visits to countries or places (like the last time I went to Croatia, for example...). But for us, it was our first visit, so all that was left was the magic of the place... For Laos, it’s one of the (rare) regrets we’ll have from the trip: not having explored it more...