New Walks from Jodhpur to Narnaul (Feb 24) (page 2 of 5)

The portrait of that shepherd is stunning. Thanks Isabelle. I hope you’ll enjoy the other portraits throughout the travel journal. I really love photographing people and street scenes. I’m not talking about temples.

Yeah, the temples are gorgeous too, but they’re easier to photograph than people 😉

If you're passing through Jodhpur, make sure to visit Barmer—it's amazing and those temples 🤗😊

That’ll be for another trip (we missed Barmer last year), but I’ve noted it down 😊. There are still so many places to discover… 😩

I want to thank Pagaljavab because if I came to Barmer, it's really thanks to you

Thank you, and I'm glad you liked Barmer! I've been there twice and spent quite a bit of time there while doing my anthropological field research. I never saw any (Western) tourists there. The city itself is pleasant and authentic, with a few notable temples and markets to visit, and you don’t pay the inflated prices of Rajasthan’s touristy cities.

As you so vividly described, the Kiradu temple is a marvel and a site that really should be a must-see in Rajasthan. But there’s still plenty more to see in Barmer. My friend’s nephew took us to another temple quite similar to Kiradu’s, but abandoned in the middle of the desert brush. We had to walk hundreds of meters through thorny bushes, and a shepherd finally led us there because we’d gotten lost... There’s also the Viratra Mata temple in Chohtan, closer to the Pakistan border, as well as camel herder villages and the stunning desert landscapes in that region.

I also remember a large Rajasthan handicraft emporium just outside the city. It’s worth knowing that a lot of the handicrafts and tribal items you find in Jaipur, Udaipur, Jodhpur, and other major tourist spots actually come from there... but here, they can be up to ten times cheaper!

Maybe you’ll get a chance to go back for longer. As for me, I don’t think I will, because for various reasons, I’ve drifted apart from the friends I met there...

You’re one of those people with *serious* energy! Like Solene, I think you’re really brave to hit the road again right after a long trip. We’re not all equal when it comes to jet lag ;) Anyway, I’m following your adventures with pleasure and interest!

"I also remember a large Rajasthan handicraft emporium a bit outside the city." I saw one, not sure if it was the same, but there was nothing interesting and not much to buy. I’d seen there was this temple in Chohtan, but I didn’t have time to go… maybe next time—I need to leave some things for the pleasure of coming back.😊😄

Well, yeah—a shower, a bit of rest, and I’m like, "I didn’t come here to stay cooped up in a room and sleep so much I don’t get out." So I set off thinking I’d just take a short stroll, but I can never stop myself... By evening, though, I don’t dawdle. 😊

No, the emporium I’m talking about was huge—like a big, well-organized warehouse with several rooms, and you could find all kinds of handicrafts from all over Rajasthan! In other towns, I’d always tell the shopkeeper that what they were selling was ten times cheaper in Barmer. Several admitted their goods actually came from there. And they asked me not to tell anyone 😏

In the evening, I hear music coming from the small temple near the guesthouse. It gets louder and louder. By 2 AM, the music is still just as loud—I’m exhausted and can’t sleep. I go out and ask for another room, but the party’s going to last all night. There are no free rooms, so they take me to the neighboring guesthouse, where I’m given a room that also faces the courtyard, so it’s practically just as noisy. It’s going to be a sleepless night.

Before 7 AM, I head back to my room and set off to explore the Jain temples (entry: 250 rs). I’m the first visitor—the women are cleaning, and it’s spotless.

These are seven temples made of yellow sandstone, dating back to the 15th and 16th centuries.

The domed ceilings are stunning, with sculptures of dancing figures—absolutely beautiful.



The thousand-petaled lotus



The pillars are also intricately carved.



There are many gods—here’s an example.



It’s very beautiful, and I enjoy the peace and quiet. Outside, the city is still asleep, and the streets are being washed. It’s really pleasant—the shops are still closed, and the place is deserted. By the end of my visit around 9 AM, tourists start arriving, and shopkeepers open their shutters. I return to the guesthouse around 9:30 AM, have a good breakfast, and since I’m so tired, I go back to bed until 1 PM.

In the afternoon, I resume my sightseeing. The Baa-Ri Haveli (50 rs), a museum inside the fortress. From the terrace, the view of the temples is extraordinary. This 450-year-old haveli belonged to the family of Brahmin priests who advised the king. The family turned it into a museum. The views of the temples and the fort are magnificent.





I leave the fortress



and head through the alleys to Patwon ki Haveli. There are two paid sections I hadn’t noticed before. The first (200 rs) isn’t great—there’s no one there, which isn’t surprising. The second (300 rs) is more interesting. There are a few Indian tourists, but it’s not crowded. I expected more people. This is the most famous haveli in Jaisalmer. It’s also the largest in the city, though it’s actually a combination of five structures. The building was commissioned by Guman Chand Patwa, a wealthy jewelry merchant, and since he had five sons, he ordered the construction of five floors—one for each of his children. The haveli features 60 stunning *jharokhas* (balconies) in a mix of Indian and Persian architectural styles.





Near the guesthouse, I spotted a sign for a viewpoint, so I go there to rest. Sitting on a step, I doze off and end up heading back to the guesthouse to nap. I have dinner on the guesthouse terrace—*butter paneer masala* and *jeera rice*—it’s really good. Good night, very peaceful.

This morning I’m leaving at 9 AM with a rickshaw to explore the area around Jaisalmer. We’re starting the visits with the Jain temples of Amar Sagar, 7 km away (entry 200 rs). There aren’t any tourists here. Amar Sagar is an 18th-century Jain temple built from sandstone and finely sculpted. It used to be by a lake that’s now dried up.



The jalis on the facades, with floral inspiration, are very harmonious.



On the upper floor, the central part is built from white marble. Inside, you’ll find sculptures with floral inspiration.



On the upper floor, there’s another temple with elephants at the four cardinal points, protectors of Jain temples.



We’re continuing to Lodurva, 16 km from Jaisalmer. Lodurva was the Rajput capital before it was abandoned for Jaisalmer. Only the temple remains (entry 100 rs). As I enter, I discover this beautiful golden temple with a beautifully sculpted torana (ornamental gate).



The interior is magnificent and richly decorated with a sculpted dome and pillars.





There’s also a black stone deity, Parshvanath Tirthankara. The serpent is the symbol of the reigning deity of this temple. The statue has a canopy shaped like a hooded serpent. The statue is carved from a single black Kasauti stone. All around, human and animal figurines are sculpted on a white marble frame—absolutely stunning.



This temple has a unique architecture with 8 corners and slanted walls, which helps keep the interior cool. It was built in 1152 and then rebuilt in 1615. The jalis are exceptional.

The last visit will be Bada Bagh, the royal cenotaphs. The cenotaphs are chhatris with a dome. These are empty tombs that were started in the 16th century. Once, these cenotaphs were in a beautiful garden, a bit neglected today but still retaining some charm on this rocky hill with wind turbines in the background.



The size of the cenotaph depends on the importance of the deceased. He is depicted on the tombstones sitting on a horse with sculptures of one or more women—these are not his wives but women who immolated themselves on the funeral pyre (sati) at the time of cremation.





Back to Jaisalmer for lunch on a terrace (aloo paratha, as usual at midday) and a walk outside the historic quarter, visiting the local market and getting a view of the fort’s bastions.

From February 3rd to 5th Departure at 9:30 AM from Jaisalmer, private bus with reserved seat (300 rs), more comfortable, and it’s really appreciated. A woman sits next to me, and she has very unique bracelets—I’ve also seen some in Barmer.



The bus stops in Phalodi—perfect, so do I. I check in for 2 nights at Hotel Anand; the staff is super friendly. The manager offers to take me to Keechan to see the demoiselle cranes that come here to spend the winter. The sight is fantastic.





We then head to the village, where many havelis are hidden. I wander through all the streets and am often invited into the houses. The havelis (I haven’t mentioned them yet) are one of the treasures of Rajasthan’s architecture and culture: these are magnificent residences built by wealthy Marwari merchants who settled in Shekhawati as early as the 17th century. This northwest region of Rajasthan was on the caravan route between the Middle East and China. The term *haveli* comes from the word *hava* (air) due to the many windows and *jalis* (lattice screens), characteristic of these palaces and designed for ventilation. The layout of these homes is almost always the same. The first courtyard, surrounded by rooms and beautifully decorated, was reserved for business. Everything had to be grand to showcase wealth! The second courtyard, less lavish, housed the family. The facades and balconies are stunning.





The discovery is fascinating. Back at the hotel, I set off on foot through the village in search of the Jain Parshanath Temple. Along the way, I’m offered a *chai*; a little further on, some young girls call me over for selfies. They’re with a fruit vendor who gives me a mandarin—it’s all so nice.



I continue to the temple and pass by havelis protected by nets on their facades.



The temple only opens at 6:30 PM. The shopkeeper across the street sets up a stool for me to wait for opening time. The caretaker arrives on time and lets me take photos with my phone.





On the way back, a man on a motorcycle stops in front of me and offers to take me back to the hotel just to be kind. People are really nice here.

Sunday, Feb 4th. It rained this morning—strange, since it’s not the season. It’s not very warm either; they’re all saying it’s 5 degrees below normal. I’m spending the day in Osian (bus: 50 rs). The streets are muddy with big puddles, and I hadn’t planned for that. I pass through the jewelers’ street and take the opportunity to get my silver bracelets repaired.

At the end of the street is the Jain Mahavira Temple, but photos are forbidden—even with a phone. It’s a shame because the sculptures are really beautiful, the columns are all different, as are the toranas. Too bad it’s impossible to photograph them; there are people everywhere keeping an eye on things (sniff). On my way out, I ask if I can take a photo of the entrance, and they allow it—so I quickly snap three!!!



The Suchiya Mata Temple is near the market. To reach the sanctuary, you have to climb a series of steps, passing under toranas. Luckily, you can keep your shoes on all the way up. The sculptures here are also very beautiful.





From the terrace, I spot the location of the 8th-century temple group, which I head to next. These temples are dedicated to Harihara, a combination of Shiva and Vishnu, recognizable by the vertical line drawn down the center of the god’s head. Vishnu is on the right, and Shiva, with his trident, is on the left. A local guide came up to me and showed me around the entire complex. Harihara is in the middle.



Statue of Yamuna with the demon at her feet.



Durga with one foot on the demon, killing it with her trident.



Narasimha is the 4th avatar of Vishnu. He took this form to defeat the demon Hiranyakashipu.



Dome at the temple entrance. Garuda in flight, identified by a feather on his head, placed in the middle of a circle of nagas (serpents), whom Garuda is the enemy of.



Indra with several heads on the sides.



the Nagas

The guide takes me to Kota Baori, which isn’t in good condition and serves as a public dump—it’s really sad. It’s located across from the temples, out in nature behind the restaurants.



I have lunch with some pakoras and a jalebi, paired with a chai.



I thought about going for a walk, but the rain shows up, so I take shelter in a bar. The lassis are calling my name while I wait for the bus. Before arriving in Phalodi, we’re stopped for a check—luckily, we all have our tickets, so the bus can leave quickly. Back in Phalodi by 6 PM, evening and rest at the hotel.

Monday 5th and Tuesday 6th Feb. Bikaner

This morning, I leave the hotel, and the manager wakes up his employee who’s supposed to take me to the bus stop, 300m away. He takes his motorbike, puts my bag behind him, and I have to hop on the back—my first "Indian-style" ride. Luckily, it’s not far, and he rides slowly because I’m not exactly reassured. The bus is ready to leave and isn’t full (200 rs). This morning, there’s fog, and it’s really chilly. On the bus, a window in front of me is open, and I’m getting a blast of cold air—freezing! I change seats at the next stop, and the rest of the trip is more comfortable. We arrive in Bikaner before noon. The guesthouse I booked is in the old town, and the rickshaw ride is pretty long (200 rs). We pass by the fort, then the famous Rampuria haveli, and the guesthouse is 300m further. I’m welcomed by the owners, who offer me a welcome chai. Once settled, I head out to explore the neighborhood. The Bhandasar Jain Temple is 500m away through the narrow alleys and the bazaar. The area’s nice, but you’ve got to watch out for all the motorbikes zipping around in every direction.



The entrance to the temple with its finely painted pillars.



The interior is breathtaking—everything is painted from floor to ceiling.



About the Bhandasar Jain Temple: A wealthy Jain merchant commissioned it in 1468, and it took 46 years to build. Legend has it there was a severe drought when the foundations were being laid, and strict water-use restrictions were imposed. But our moneybags merchant wasn’t about to be discouraged. Instead, he used 40,000 kg of ghee in the foundations, and in summer, the fat still seeps from the ground. (It was really chilly in early February, so I don’t know if it actually seeps.) I head back into the bazaar and wander through the alleys, discovering old havelis.





Evening at the guesthouse—it’s cold, and I turn in early, hoping to warm up.

Tuesday 6th Feb. After a hearty breakfast, I set off to visit the fort. I pass by the group of 7 Rampuria Havelis, made of red sandstone. They belong to a merchant family and are situated at an intersection.



The oldest ones date back to the 15th century, with additions and modifications over the years. Most were built in the early 20th century. The first haveli is unique, featuring stone faces of British monarchs.



I pass by the Kot Gate



And finally arrive at Bikaner’s jewel: Junagarh Fort, a mix of styles spanning 16 generations and 20 kings over half a millennium. The fort is built in a basin, and the 37 ramparts were more for decoration than defense.

The fort still has other means of defense—a deep moat surrounds it, though it’s dry at the moment. The gates are also equipped with nasty spikes at elephant-head height. Elephants were used to break down defensive gates, but the spikes discouraged them from ramming their heads against the doors.



ticket (400 rs) On a wall at the entrance, you can see the handprints of royal women who committed sati.



After passing through the gates, you enter a courtyard that offers a glimpse of the palace façade.



Each courtyard is different—some in red sandstone, others with marble.





The rooms facing the courtyards are also very different. The Chandra Mahal, inlaid with mirrors. The Phool Mahal, the oldest part, featuring floral motifs and glass inlays.

The Bada Mahal or Palace of Clouds.



Anup Mahal with red and gold Usta art and gold leaf. This art is a specialty of Bikaner. Gaj Mandar





For me, this palace is one of the most beautiful in India. Every room is breathtaking, and it’s often considered the most beautifully decorated fort in India—it’s totally justified. After leaving the fort, I must’ve been dazzled by the visit because I couldn’t find a restaurant, which seems impossible now. I head back to the guesthouse and have lunch with an aloo paratha. I take the chance to check my notes. I want to visit the royal chhatris of Devikund Sagar. I mention it to the couple at the guesthouse, and they immediately call a rickshaw to pick me up. The chhatris honoring the male members of the royal family are also represented here by equestrian sculptures on vertical slabs, just like at Bada Bagh.





For the women, they’re footprints carved into a horizontal slab.





The oldest ones are in red sandstone, while the more recent ones are in white marble. On my way back to the guesthouse, I book my bus ticket for 10 AM and head out for one last stroll through the bazaar neighborhood. At the exit, the neighbors get a little photo session.

I must have lost all my travel companions—I look right, then left, and there’s no one... oh well, I’ll keep going anyway🙂 and I leave Bikaner.

From Wednesday the 7th to Monday the 12th of February, I visit Shekhawati. This morning, as planned, the rickshaw comes to pick me up at 9:30 AM. The bus is outside the city on the road to the chhatris. We leave at 10 AM in cold rain. I’m heading to Mandawa for 3 nights, which will serve as my base to explore the surrounding area. We arrive at 1 PM, and the bus drops me off at a crossroads by a main road. There are no tuk-tuks, but luckily the rain has stopped, so I have to drag my bag to the village and find the hotel. Luck’s on my side this year—a van full of empty boxes passes by and stops. The driver offers to take me to the hotel, and I gladly accept. The house’s facade is well-painted, and the walls of the rooms are very colorful.





Once settled in, I head to the market and then search for the old havelis. Mandawa is a small village for India (3,300 inhabitants). I didn’t plan to visit Mandawa when I prepared this trip, but since I couldn’t find a hotel in Nawalgarh, I ended up here where there’s plenty of choice. I haven’t prepared anything for this afternoon, so I’ll just wander around and try to find some havelis to visit. Still, I do visit the Raghu Nath temple, which is beautifully decorated with frescoes of different gods. The facade is stunning.





I stroll around, passing by havelis with closed facades covered in more or less faded frescoes.



Some tourists with a guide head toward the old houses, and I discreetly follow them. Outside one of them, a man who says he’s the owner’s son offers to let me visit (entry 200 Rs). The price of the visits is supposed to go toward restoration, which would be great because they’re starting to really deteriorate. (Stéphane Bern could come here—there’s work to be done!!) They’re still very beautiful, though.







the staircase leading to the wrestling room



the view from the terrace over Mandawa is pretty nice.



Back at the guesthouse, I run into two French travelers I’d met on the bus between Jaisalmer and Phalodi. We spend the evening chatting about our respective adventures—one thing’s for sure, our trips don’t look anything alike, and we’re all happy with our discoveries, and that’s what matters most.

Oh, Marie Jo, I'm still here and I'm seeing magnificent temples and buildings. Each one is more beautiful than the last, both inside and out 😊.

... Outside one of them, a man who says he’s the owner’s son offers to show me around (entry 200 rs)...

I was wondering... to communicate, do you speak Indian? I imagine some must speak English, but in villages or elsewhere, how do you manage to make yourself understood?

you speak Indian ??

There are 22 official languages in India and nearly 300 recognized in total, but none called "Indian."

Do you speak Indian?

There are 22 official languages in India and nearly 300 recognized in total, but none called "Indian."

Wow, it’s pretty complicated... the people of India who aren’t Hindus but Indians and don’t speak "Indian"!!! It’s enough to make your head spin! 😄

Sorry, I must sound like a total newbie—I’ve never been to India, and it wasn’t really on my radar until these recent travel journals... I’m a bit lost here 😅