3 weeks in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, preliminary travel questions (page 2 of 12)

Hi there! :)

any idea for a route in Kazakhstan

A little loop starting from Almaty, something like this:



A 4x4 would be great for getting to a few spots in Kyrgyzstan.

Which ones? :p

Don’t worry about the heat at the time you’re planning to go.

In June, what should I expect?

You know, Michel, there are tons of apps that do a great job these days!

Sure, but you’re still missing out on a big piece of culture. When you can at least read the words and pronounce them, you already grasp a lot—it’s not that far from our language. Nothing like Thai, for example. Or are you only going for the landscapes?

I initially thought about landing in Astana, which seemed surprising, but it’s too far to then reach Almaty without taking another flight.

By train, it’s a long trip; flying is much more convenient. But more importantly, it’s way harder to get to Astana from Europe. Almaty’s airport is a dump, but it’s well-connected.

Sosh covers Kazakhstan.

Does this system allow you to download local apps like YandexGo and InDrive? Honestly, I don’t know. Those are Russian apps, not available when you appear in France.

Michel

Hello Agnès,

I was thinking that a 4x4 plus ground camping gear might do the trick for Kyrgyzstan!

That’s a great idea—4x4 plus ground tent camping.

In Kyrgyzstan, a permit is mandatory as soon as you approach the Chinese border.

Is there really nothing in Kazakhstan around (± 200 km) Almaty?

Strictly nothing in Kazakhstan unless you’re heading to Baikonur, but that’s way off your planned route.

I meant normal. A country where something could happen to you like anywhere else, but where you don’t have to be extra careful every single moment.

Stay vigilant around the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul. It’s a drug trafficking hub. We had a small incident in 2019 on the southern shore. The Karakol region is very touristy, so maybe just a bit more caution in that area.

This idea had been floating around in my head for a while, but Covid delayed it! And I was sure about Kyrgyzstan but not so much about Kazakhstan. Initially, I was thinking more about Uzbekistan. But it’ll be way too hot there at this time of year!

Around Almaty in Kazakhstan, it’s *very* touristy—too crowded for our taste. Regarding your route, when you’re at Sharyn Canyon, you can cross back into Kyrgyzstan via the Kegen border post and then head toward Karakol. Kegen is a tiny border post, so the process is quick. We ran into a shady customs officer on the Kazakh side in 2024 during one of our two crossings. We know the drill—he got back in line.

We’ll have plenty of time to talk about the Stans when it comes to Uzbekistan. Good call on the climate at this time of year. Kyrgyzstan’s altitude keeps summer temperatures pleasant. Watch out for storms around Lake Issyk-Kul and near Lake Balkhash, north of Almaty.

The book I recommend—and Perju approves ;)—is a treasure trove of info. Updates and corrections should be posted on the publisher’s site before you leave.

For spots in Kyrgyzstan, you’ll find some great ideas in the guide suggested. Everything is well explained, with photos and specific GPS points for each planned route. On my end, I was thinking of Song Kol Lake, the Tosor Pass, and Kel Suu Lake, among others.

For your Kazakhstan itinerary, you’re not planning a detour to the Tamgaly petroglyph site near Almaty? It’s definitely worth seeing—lots of carvings and it’s self-service...

As Christian mentioned, temperatures should be pleasant... but I remember sweltering in 2011 in southern Kazakhstan and then breaking out the sweater a month later in the Gobi Desert in Mongolia. In 2013, it was the opposite... and in 2016, pleasant temps in Kazakhstan but chilly in the Kyrgyz mountains (July/August).

Here’s where I’m at with my planning!

Almaty – 2 nights

Pick up a small 4x4, then:

Altyn Emel National Park – 2 nights Charyn Canyon – 1 night Kolsai Lakes – 2 nights

Cross the border

Karakol – 2 nights (Sunday morning livestock market) Barskon – 2 nights (day trip to the Arabel High Valley from this village) Kochkor – 1 night Around Naryn via Jalpak Bel – start of the Bolgart River Valley – 2 nights (Tach Rabat + Mels Pass day trip from the Naryn area) Song Kul Lake via the 33 Parrots Pass – 2 nights Moldo Ashuu Pass – Toktogul – 1 night Toktogul – Suusamyr Valley – 1 night Suusamyr Valley – Ala Archa – 2 nights

Cross the border

Almaty – 1 night

I’m wondering if the Moldo Ashuu Pass–Toktogul leg isn’t a bit ambitious?

What a shame to turn back at MELS Pass. The descent to Baetov is stunning, with incredibly colorful landscapes as far as the eye can see. Can you create one or more maps with your route traced on them? Your itineraries aren't precise enough to know which tracks you're planning to take. Small note: if you hit a rainy period, the tracks become quite challenging. Karakol for 2 days—a good dose of overtourism should satisfy you, you love it.

Hi Christian!

Can you create one or more maps with your route traced on them? Your itineraries aren’t detailed enough to know which tracks you’re planning to take.

Here’s what it looks like with Maps.me:



Arabel Valley for a day trip



From Kochkor to the area around Naryn via Jalpak Bel and the start (or end...) of the Bolgart Valley



Continuing toward Tash Rabat and on to Baetov



From Baetov to the 33 Parrots Pass (then down to the lake)

I’m skipping Toktogul via the Toluk track—too many extra hours of driving.

Here’s another version for getting back to civilization:



What a shame to turn back at MELS Pass. The descent to Baetov is stunning, with colorful landscapes as far as the eye can see.

I checked it out—it’s tempting, and it’s not marked as a difficult track. Plus, there’s accommodation in Baetov, and it avoids retracing the same route. Done! ;)

Small note: if you hit a rainy period, the tracks get pretty sporty.

The trip would be from mid-June to early July. I’ve tried to avoid spots known for being tough, like Tosor Pass, for example.

Karakol for 2 days—a good dose of overtourism should satisfy you, since you love it.

2 nights!

The livestock market really appeals to me, and it’ll be a chance to enjoy some less rustic gastronomic pleasures... Well, I hope so... :crazy:

Have you planned to sleep in a tent if the opportunity arises to get far from the palace 🏰?

Good call skipping Toktogul.

Your route passes near Ming Kush. Check if this kind of site might interest you—an old Soviet town with a uranium mine. The village and houses are straight out of that era. The track to get there is very easy. You’ll be *very* far from overtourism!

I’m plotting your route on my usual mapping tool and I’ll get back to you in a few days.

Hey Perju, where are you hiding? 🤔 😢

I haven’t really found any 8-star stops... Some seem pretty kitschy... 😏 For now, I’m leaning toward an all-hard-shell option.

Ming Kush

I saved the spot on Maps.me. It could actually interest me. [;]

Is this trip mainly focused on enjoying the scenery during vehicle journeys, or is it about getting from the starting point to the destination as quickly as possible? What navigation/mapping tool will you be using? Do you know how to handle GPX files?

Do you really want to go through Altyn-Emel Park, since the northern loop is very long with no other interest besides the park itself? Also, the track conditions in the park are terrible—constant deep corrugation that requires some expertise to avoid suffering too much. For a first visit to this region, I wouldn’t go there. I’ll let you think about it.

Is this trip mainly focused on landscape contemplation during vehicle journeys?

Yes, plus a few hikes.

What navigation/mapping tool will you be using?

I’ve always used Maps.me for my "off-road" trips. Worked great.

I also watch videos or read trip reports beforehand for any sections that seem tricky (I’m not looking for extreme adventure—just a relaxed trip from the perspective of someone experienced. Don’t want to turn the journey into a nightmare).

Do you know how to handle GPX files?

No.

Do you really want to go through Altyn-Emel Park?

Yes. Unless the situation in Kazakhstan worsens because of Putin, in which case I’d stick to Kyrgyzstan (I’ve heard he has expansion plans there too...).

A few spots in Altyn-Emel Park where you can go with your vehicle unless the terrain is wet.

43.904661, 77.957887 43.879282, 78.563269 43.922756, 78.790205 43.996750, 79.049122 43.991014, 79.240370

Along the route: 44.163063, 80.000524 https://central-asia.guide/fr/kazakhstan/destinations-au-kazakhstan/zharkent/

Hey Agnès,

That’s awesome… I’ve had my eye on the Almaty region for a while too 😛. I’ll definitely follow your itinerary and report back with great interest. Did you find a reliable car rental in Almaty? Back in the day, I struggled to find one in Bishkek… Was it the geographic proximity that made you combine Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan? Because crossing borders with a rental car is rarely "relaxing" 😉. We loved the contrast between the steppes and the Ferghana Valley… and the area around Lenin Peak is also stunning.

Happy travels 🙂 Jean-François

Thanks for the GPS coordinates and the sightseeing idea—it really doesn’t add much of a detour!

We’ll be careful not to drive on waterlogged tracks. I think I prefer sand! !

Hey Jef!

Did you find a reliable rental company in Almaty?

So far, I’ve only looked around a bit. Seems like there’s plenty of options for a standard 4x4 (meaning no roof tent, etc.).

Did you group Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan together because of how close they are?

Yep, they’re literally right next to each other, and 3 weeks in Kyrgyzstan focusing just on easy tracks feels like a bit too much.

Both countries are developing tourism-wise. Less paperwork, more accommodations—seems like the perfect time to go before it gets trendy!

Crossing borders with a rental vehicle is rarely "relaxing" 😉

True, it can be time-consuming and stressful! But I’ve heard it’s pretty smooth between these two, unlike some other borders in the region...

Long live travel 🙂

Absolutely! 😉😛

Hi Agnès,

Both countries are developing tourism-wise. Less paperwork, more accommodations—it seems like the perfect time to go before it becomes trendy!

There aren’t many Europeans, but lots of Chinese and Indian travelers. Almaty feels half Turkish, half Russian. Especially where you’re headed. If you want something more preserved, try Petropavl, Pavlodar, or Karaganda 🙂.

Michel

In your list, you forgot Semipalatinsk.

Hi Christian,

Yes, I’d be interested, of course. I had a flight last summer to Ust-Kamenogorsk, but it didn’t happen in the end—still a regret, though. Uralsk, on the other hand, was a bit disappointing. But Karaganda in February is one of my best recent travel memories.

When Agnès writes: "Both countries are developing tourism-wise. Less paperwork, more accommodations—it seems like the perfect time to go before it becomes trendy!", what comes to mind is hoping that Kazakhstan, for example, can continue to be a bridge between the two emerging worlds and doesn’t choose the other path.

Michel

Hey Michel,

I'm heading south, and you're suggesting the north.

I dream of nature, and you're sending me to urban centers...

😇

In urban centers, there are parks. 😉