3 weeks in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, preliminary travel questions

Hello,

We’re traveling with our own vehicle, so I can’t help you with renting one. I’d recommend a 4x4 if you want to take certain tracks where you’ll find stunning landscapes. Depending on your route, you’ll easily find accommodation in touristy areas; otherwise, try a roof tent for more adventure.

In Kyrgyzstan, a permit is mandatory as soon as you approach the Chinese border. The waiting time to get permits is between 4 and 7 days. You can submit your application at one office and pick it up at another, which lets you keep traveling while you wait.

Border crossings are fairly quick, but we’re pretty experienced with border posts in our vehicle. The crew is well-practiced.

Corruption: very rare in our experience (only once or twice in each country during summer 2024). Just remember this word: "Protocole" for the Stans and Russia if you get stopped. You need to stand your ground and refuse to get into the authorities’ car. You’re willing to pay, but "Protocole"—meaning you insist on official paperwork with the officers. They’ll ask you to leave. 😏 Watch out for lots of fixed and handheld speed cameras.

Safe countries: are you thinking of France? Want me to tell you about our return to France (car break-in) after spending 5 months in the Stans, where locals were very respectful of travelers?

You’ll find downloadable trip reports at the bottom of the page on our site: https://www.lescs.fr/Asie-Centrale-2024 https://www.lescs.fr/Asie-Centrale-2019 Videos: https://www.lescs.fr/Kirghizstan-videos

Happy to help—you’re planning an amazing trip!

Good evening,

Oh wow... Now *that’s* a plan... 🤪

Unless things have changed recently, in KZ, you have to register. Accommodations like hotels will do it if you insist, but most of the time they don’t care. But in theory, you’re supposed to do it on this site: https://eqonaq.kz/?lang=kz

Kazakhstan is way safer than any European country right now—it feels like a mix between Russia and Turkey, including the language (Russian and Turkish speakers can understand each other). The country is very modern, with lots of card payments, Kaspi; it feels a lot less Soviet than UZ. Kyrgyzstan is much more rural and less modern. There isn’t much road traffic between the two countries. In Bishkek, over four days, I maybe saw four or five Kazakhs. And a Corsican. 😏

Michel

Unless there’s been a recent change, in KZ, you have to register.

You no longer need to register in the Stans.

There isn’t much road traffic between the two countries;

On all the major routes, there are a lot of trucks, and even more on the roads leading to or coming from China. If there’s a coal mine or other mineral extraction site, there’s heavy local traffic. Road conditions have improved significantly between 2019 and 2024. In 2024, we encountered a lot of roadwork improving the pavement, especially on routes toward China and south of Lake Issyk-Kul.

To prepare for your trip, I recommend this book: https://www.overlandaventure.com/produit/kirg-tadj/

For border crossings: The driver crosses with their vehicle. Passengers go through the pedestrian lane. Be careful to synchronize the border crossing between pedestrians and the vehicle + driver.

Hello, Is check-in still recent? A year ago, it was still the case. Especially in UZ. In KZ, it seemed less important and effective.

For traffic, I was talking about private vehicles.

Michel

In 2024, no registration required even in UZ. Whether you're in a private vehicle or not, you'll encounter a lot of trucks. Almaty, Bishkek, and Osh are cities with perpetual traffic jams.

For border permits, this organization is really efficient and well-established throughout Kyrgyzstan. https://cbtkyrgyzstan.com/border-permits/

I don’t think I kept the tickets, but in Uzbekistan hotels used to give them to me, and they were very precise, with the exact time. We agree that they’re rarely asked for when leaving the country, but do you have a source to say they’re no longer legally required?

Michel

Hi Christian,

Following your itinerary, you’ll easily find accommodation in touristy areas; otherwise, try a rooftop for more adventure

I don’t think I’ll go to areas that are not touristy at all or very little.

I’m thinking a 4x4 plus ground camping gear might do the trick for Kyrgyzstan! It gives you the assurance of a credit card for the vehicle, which isn’t the case with a rooftop tent.

In Kyrgyzstan, a permit is mandatory as soon as you approach the Chinese border.

Okay. I’ll see if I need one after planning my route.

Nothing in Kazakhstan in the vicinity (±200 km) of Almaty, then?

You just need to remember this word: "Protocol"

It’ll be etched in my memory! 😉

Watch out for lots of fixed and mobile speed cameras.

Got it—I’ll make sure to stick to the speed limits.

Safe countries: you mean France?

I meant normal. A country where something could happen to you like anywhere else, but where you don’t have to be extra cautious every single moment.

The French travel advisory site mentions some security issues with fake police and thefts, especially at night.

Other countries’ sites are less alarmist. As usual...

I’d already seen the link to your feedback in another thread. It’ll be really useful! 🙂

You’re planning an amazing trip.

This idea’s been in my head for a while, but COVID delayed it! And I was sure about Kyrgyzstan but not Kazakhstan at first. Initially, I was thinking more about Uzbekistan. But it’ll be way too hot there this season!

Hey Michel,

Ah... Now there’s a plan... Crazy

It totally matches my love for nature. And it’s now or never to go before these two Stans become Instagram hotspots...

There are way more Google results about these countries now than there were 10 years ago.

More vehicle rental options, travel agencies, etc.

but do you have a source to say it’s no longer legally required?

It’s pretty funny seeing you ask for a source on a legal point, considering how often you advise others to ignore the law when it seems absurd to you... Or when it’s liberticidal.

Which is the case here.

Hi Agnès,

If you ever come across a place where I gave such "advice"—assuming I’ve ever given any here—please let me know. I sometimes disagree with people who, as a precaution, impose constraints on themselves that don’t actually exist. That’s a different story. For this registration question, I trust this site once again: https://caravanistan.com/visa/kazakhstan/registration-ovir/ Happy reading!

Michel

Re-read your 51,689 messages and you’ll find it. 😉

For registration, your link says this:

You don’t need to go to the OVIR as a traveler. You don’t need or have the option to do anything yourself to register properly. Perfect! Just enter the country and enjoy!

There are no longer registration cards to fill out, and as a traveler, you no longer have the responsibility to register.

The responsibility lies entirely with your host, who must register you on the e-gov platform within 3 days. If the host doesn’t register you on time, they face a fine. Registration is free.

So I don’t have to do anything.

"Or freedom-restricting. Which is the current situation."

I think I’ve understood that the situation in Kazakhstan right now is very similar to the one in France—a sort of police form filled out by the host and kept on file. Except that in Kazakhstan, it’s done online.

You don’t have to do anything if the host does what they’re supposed to, that’s right.

Michel

I mentioned it feels oppressive from your point of view.

Personally, I couldn’t care less if a state has the means to know I took a pee at 7:47 AM on August 15th in a hotel in Almaty.

But we’re getting off topic...😇

You mentioned it was liberticidal from your point of view.

What I really don’t accept is when a hotel in France tries to collect that kind of information from its French clients—it’s not required by law. I’ve already managed to make one or two hotels backtrack on that kind of initiative, but you’re right, we’re getting off topic.

I’m a bit... amused to see you interested in this part of the world, since it doesn’t quite match the experiences you usually talk about. I can’t wait to hear your impressions when you get back.

Michel

because it really doesn’t align with the experiences you usually share.

Oh yes, countries where you can drive and discover fabulous landscapes!

I’d feel way more in my element in Charyn Canyon than on the beaches of Saint-Tropez.

For the rest, I can adapt as long as I’m not asked to dress like a potato sack from head to toe. That’s not the case in these Stans.

You don’t picture me there because you’re projecting your experiences of these countries onto my experiences. But you have a very particular way of discovering the world, one that doesn’t resonate with most people (which is totally your right, no issue there).

That’s why it’s so hard for you to give advice that fits the needs of average travelers.

Perju, Max68, and Lescs (who’ve all been there) have a lot more in common with me in terms of travel style. I don’t think they’d find it strange that I want to go there.

(We’re drifting off-topic again… )

First off, Kazakhstan is huge. As I mentioned, the outskirts of Almaty are almost like Turkey, and places like Uralsk or Temirtau are as Russian as Russia itself. Either way, both are very traditional contexts, and French universalism isn’t really the vibe there. I’m amused because you don’t seem to have spent time in places that resemble it the most: eastern Anatolia, Moldova, Ukraine... Can you read Cyrillic?

As for how I travel, I’m not sure what you’re referring to. I’ve done plenty of long trips like the ones you’re planning, though sometimes by taxi.

I’m probably more of a city person than a countryside one—I already get my fill of that here—but I’ve recently been to Astana, Shymkent, Almaty, Uralsk, and Karaganda, plus Bishkek and Tashkent. I really like Astana, which isn’t common, and I’ve been there three times, totaling about ten days, mostly in winter.

Have you thought about mobile data?

Michel

Hello! Got any ideas for a route in Kazakhstan? True, a 4x4 would be great for getting to a few spots in Kyrgyzstan. The book Christian recommended is a real bible—essential if you want to go off-road in Kyrg. Don’t worry about the heat for the time you’re planning to go. 🙂

First off, Kazakhstan is huge

That rhymes...

That’s why I’m sticking to the area around Almaty.

I initially thought about landing in Astana, which seemed surprising, but it’s too far to then reach Almaty without taking another flight.

Can you read Cyrillic?

I can’t read Thai script either...

You know, Michel, there are tons of apps these days that do the job just fine!

Have you thought about mobile data?

Sosh covers Kazakhstan. For Kyrgyzstan, I’ll have to see. It’s still over a year away...

Hi there! :)

any idea for a route in Kazakhstan

A little loop starting from Almaty, something like this:



A 4x4 would be great for getting to a few spots in Kyrgyzstan.

Which ones? :p

Don’t worry about the heat at the time you’re planning to go.

In June, what should I expect?

You know, Michel, there are tons of apps that do a great job these days!

Sure, but you’re still missing out on a big piece of culture. When you can at least read the words and pronounce them, you already grasp a lot—it’s not that far from our language. Nothing like Thai, for example. Or are you only going for the landscapes?

I initially thought about landing in Astana, which seemed surprising, but it’s too far to then reach Almaty without taking another flight.

By train, it’s a long trip; flying is much more convenient. But more importantly, it’s way harder to get to Astana from Europe. Almaty’s airport is a dump, but it’s well-connected.

Sosh covers Kazakhstan.

Does this system allow you to download local apps like YandexGo and InDrive? Honestly, I don’t know. Those are Russian apps, not available when you appear in France.

Michel

Hello Agnès,

I was thinking that a 4x4 plus ground camping gear might do the trick for Kyrgyzstan!

That’s a great idea—4x4 plus ground tent camping.

In Kyrgyzstan, a permit is mandatory as soon as you approach the Chinese border.

Is there really nothing in Kazakhstan around (± 200 km) Almaty?

Strictly nothing in Kazakhstan unless you’re heading to Baikonur, but that’s way off your planned route.

I meant normal. A country where something could happen to you like anywhere else, but where you don’t have to be extra careful every single moment.

Stay vigilant around the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul. It’s a drug trafficking hub. We had a small incident in 2019 on the southern shore. The Karakol region is very touristy, so maybe just a bit more caution in that area.

This idea had been floating around in my head for a while, but Covid delayed it! And I was sure about Kyrgyzstan but not so much about Kazakhstan. Initially, I was thinking more about Uzbekistan. But it’ll be way too hot there at this time of year!

Around Almaty in Kazakhstan, it’s *very* touristy—too crowded for our taste. Regarding your route, when you’re at Sharyn Canyon, you can cross back into Kyrgyzstan via the Kegen border post and then head toward Karakol. Kegen is a tiny border post, so the process is quick. We ran into a shady customs officer on the Kazakh side in 2024 during one of our two crossings. We know the drill—he got back in line.

We’ll have plenty of time to talk about the Stans when it comes to Uzbekistan. Good call on the climate at this time of year. Kyrgyzstan’s altitude keeps summer temperatures pleasant. Watch out for storms around Lake Issyk-Kul and near Lake Balkhash, north of Almaty.

The book I recommend—and Perju approves ;)—is a treasure trove of info. Updates and corrections should be posted on the publisher’s site before you leave.

For spots in Kyrgyzstan, you’ll find some great ideas in the guide suggested. Everything is well explained, with photos and specific GPS points for each planned route. On my end, I was thinking of Song Kol Lake, the Tosor Pass, and Kel Suu Lake, among others.

For your Kazakhstan itinerary, you’re not planning a detour to the Tamgaly petroglyph site near Almaty? It’s definitely worth seeing—lots of carvings and it’s self-service...

As Christian mentioned, temperatures should be pleasant... but I remember sweltering in 2011 in southern Kazakhstan and then breaking out the sweater a month later in the Gobi Desert in Mongolia. In 2013, it was the opposite... and in 2016, pleasant temps in Kazakhstan but chilly in the Kyrgyz mountains (July/August).

Here’s where I’m at with my planning!

Almaty – 2 nights

Pick up a small 4x4, then:

Altyn Emel National Park – 2 nights Charyn Canyon – 1 night Kolsai Lakes – 2 nights

Cross the border

Karakol – 2 nights (Sunday morning livestock market) Barskon – 2 nights (day trip to the Arabel High Valley from this village) Kochkor – 1 night Around Naryn via Jalpak Bel – start of the Bolgart River Valley – 2 nights (Tach Rabat + Mels Pass day trip from the Naryn area) Song Kul Lake via the 33 Parrots Pass – 2 nights Moldo Ashuu Pass – Toktogul – 1 night Toktogul – Suusamyr Valley – 1 night Suusamyr Valley – Ala Archa – 2 nights

Cross the border

Almaty – 1 night

I’m wondering if the Moldo Ashuu Pass–Toktogul leg isn’t a bit ambitious?

What a shame to turn back at MELS Pass. The descent to Baetov is stunning, with incredibly colorful landscapes as far as the eye can see. Can you create one or more maps with your route traced on them? Your itineraries aren't precise enough to know which tracks you're planning to take. Small note: if you hit a rainy period, the tracks become quite challenging. Karakol for 2 days—a good dose of overtourism should satisfy you, you love it.

Hi Christian!

Can you create one or more maps with your route traced on them? Your itineraries aren’t detailed enough to know which tracks you’re planning to take.

Here’s what it looks like with Maps.me:



Arabel Valley for a day trip



From Kochkor to the area around Naryn via Jalpak Bel and the start (or end...) of the Bolgart Valley



Continuing toward Tash Rabat and on to Baetov



From Baetov to the 33 Parrots Pass (then down to the lake)

I’m skipping Toktogul via the Toluk track—too many extra hours of driving.

Here’s another version for getting back to civilization:



What a shame to turn back at MELS Pass. The descent to Baetov is stunning, with colorful landscapes as far as the eye can see.

I checked it out—it’s tempting, and it’s not marked as a difficult track. Plus, there’s accommodation in Baetov, and it avoids retracing the same route. Done! ;)

Small note: if you hit a rainy period, the tracks get pretty sporty.

The trip would be from mid-June to early July. I’ve tried to avoid spots known for being tough, like Tosor Pass, for example.

Karakol for 2 days—a good dose of overtourism should satisfy you, since you love it.

2 nights!

The livestock market really appeals to me, and it’ll be a chance to enjoy some less rustic gastronomic pleasures... Well, I hope so... :crazy:

Have you planned to sleep in a tent if the opportunity arises to get far from the palace 🏰?

Good call skipping Toktogul.

Your route passes near Ming Kush. Check if this kind of site might interest you—an old Soviet town with a uranium mine. The village and houses are straight out of that era. The track to get there is very easy. You’ll be *very* far from overtourism!

I’m plotting your route on my usual mapping tool and I’ll get back to you in a few days.

Hey Perju, where are you hiding? 🤔 😢

I haven’t really found any 8-star stops... Some seem pretty kitschy... 😏 For now, I’m leaning toward an all-hard-shell option.

Ming Kush

I saved the spot on Maps.me. It could actually interest me. [;]

Is this trip mainly focused on enjoying the scenery during vehicle journeys, or is it about getting from the starting point to the destination as quickly as possible? What navigation/mapping tool will you be using? Do you know how to handle GPX files?

Do you really want to go through Altyn-Emel Park, since the northern loop is very long with no other interest besides the park itself? Also, the track conditions in the park are terrible—constant deep corrugation that requires some expertise to avoid suffering too much. For a first visit to this region, I wouldn’t go there. I’ll let you think about it.

Is this trip mainly focused on landscape contemplation during vehicle journeys?

Yes, plus a few hikes.

What navigation/mapping tool will you be using?

I’ve always used Maps.me for my "off-road" trips. Worked great.

I also watch videos or read trip reports beforehand for any sections that seem tricky (I’m not looking for extreme adventure—just a relaxed trip from the perspective of someone experienced. Don’t want to turn the journey into a nightmare).

Do you know how to handle GPX files?

No.

Do you really want to go through Altyn-Emel Park?

Yes. Unless the situation in Kazakhstan worsens because of Putin, in which case I’d stick to Kyrgyzstan (I’ve heard he has expansion plans there too...).

A few spots in Altyn-Emel Park where you can go with your vehicle unless the terrain is wet.

43.904661, 77.957887 43.879282, 78.563269 43.922756, 78.790205 43.996750, 79.049122 43.991014, 79.240370

Along the route: 44.163063, 80.000524 https://central-asia.guide/fr/kazakhstan/destinations-au-kazakhstan/zharkent/

Hey Agnès,

That’s awesome… I’ve had my eye on the Almaty region for a while too 😛. I’ll definitely follow your itinerary and report back with great interest. Did you find a reliable car rental in Almaty? Back in the day, I struggled to find one in Bishkek… Was it the geographic proximity that made you combine Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan? Because crossing borders with a rental car is rarely "relaxing" 😉. We loved the contrast between the steppes and the Ferghana Valley… and the area around Lenin Peak is also stunning.

Happy travels 🙂 Jean-François

Thanks for the GPS coordinates and the sightseeing idea—it really doesn’t add much of a detour!

We’ll be careful not to drive on waterlogged tracks. I think I prefer sand! !

Hey Jef!

Did you find a reliable rental company in Almaty?

So far, I’ve only looked around a bit. Seems like there’s plenty of options for a standard 4x4 (meaning no roof tent, etc.).

Did you group Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan together because of how close they are?

Yep, they’re literally right next to each other, and 3 weeks in Kyrgyzstan focusing just on easy tracks feels like a bit too much.

Both countries are developing tourism-wise. Less paperwork, more accommodations—seems like the perfect time to go before it gets trendy!

Crossing borders with a rental vehicle is rarely "relaxing" 😉

True, it can be time-consuming and stressful! But I’ve heard it’s pretty smooth between these two, unlike some other borders in the region...

Long live travel 🙂

Absolutely! 😉😛

Hi Agnès,

Both countries are developing tourism-wise. Less paperwork, more accommodations—it seems like the perfect time to go before it becomes trendy!

There aren’t many Europeans, but lots of Chinese and Indian travelers. Almaty feels half Turkish, half Russian. Especially where you’re headed. If you want something more preserved, try Petropavl, Pavlodar, or Karaganda 🙂.

Michel

In your list, you forgot Semipalatinsk.

Hi Christian,

Yes, I’d be interested, of course. I had a flight last summer to Ust-Kamenogorsk, but it didn’t happen in the end—still a regret, though. Uralsk, on the other hand, was a bit disappointing. But Karaganda in February is one of my best recent travel memories.

When Agnès writes: "Both countries are developing tourism-wise. Less paperwork, more accommodations—it seems like the perfect time to go before it becomes trendy!", what comes to mind is hoping that Kazakhstan, for example, can continue to be a bridge between the two emerging worlds and doesn’t choose the other path.

Michel

Hey Michel,

I'm heading south, and you're suggesting the north.

I dream of nature, and you're sending me to urban centers...

😇

In urban centers, there are parks. 😉

A few additional points in Kazakhstan near your itinerary.

43.372188, 78.527164 43.356331, 79.054014 43.269287, 78.972755 43.281954, 79.002332 43.247334, 78.897055 42.939281, 78.325188 43.030273, 78.833667 43.806683, 75.543010 Thanks to Perju 😉

I haven't even left yet and my Maps.me map is already full of bookmarks! !😉

I’ll let you figure out the trails or paths (hiking routes) to reach those spots.

They’re on Maps.me. It’s really comprehensive.

The only thing is, it doesn’t show the condition of the track/road.

But it does know when it’s unpaved!

Way more reliable than Google Maps, which sends you down improbable—even dangerous—routes...

I’ll give you some spots you can reach with a 4x4 without too much trouble if the tracks are dry. Road/track conditions... with lots of potholes. One of the spots is a hike to a lake above Kolsay Lake—only doable in dry weather, trekking poles recommended.

Are you planning to leave Kazakhstan via the Kegen border crossing to get back into Kyrgyzstan?

Yes, that’s the one (Kpp Karkyra-Avtodorozhnyy).

Okay. From that little border post, which for us was a very quick crossing in both directions because there were so few people, I think you’ll head straight to Karakol. Reminder about land border crossings: the passenger crosses on foot and the driver with the vehicle. You’ll want to avoid one of you getting ahead into the next country before the other.

After the border, a little curiosity at this spot: 42.747001, 78.995925

And there, you can take a bath to cool off and, most importantly, wash off the dust that’s given you a nice coating. 42.372472, 77.911649

One of you should avoid getting a head start entering the next country before the other.

How do we handle that???

From what I understand, one person gets their passport stamped at the same time as the car, while the other has to go to a different counter person?

Okay, after some thought and reading the feedback from participants in this discussion, I'm leaning toward a Kyrgyzstan-only trip now ! Kazakhstan could easily be a separate trip for 2-3 weeks.

Here’s what I’m considering:

2 (or maybe just 1, depending on flight time) nights in Bishkek

1 night in Ala Archa

1 night in Chong Kemin (Burana Tower)

1 night in Bokonbaievo

2 nights in Barskoon

2 nights in Karakol

1 night in Kochkor (via the north shore of the lake)

1 night in Tash Bashat (via Jalah Bel and the end of the Bolgart Valley)

1 night in Son Kul

1 night in At Bashy

1 night in Baetov (via Tash Rabat and the Mels Pass)

1 night in Jalal-Abad

2 nights in Sary Tash (Tulpar Kul - Lenin Peak base camp)

1 night in Osh

1 night in Arslanbob

1 night in Toktogul

1 night in Kyzyl Oy

1 night in Bishkek







Does this make sense and is it doable in a basic 4x4?

Hello,

From my little perspective, I think it's better to focus on just one country—fewer administrative hassles.

The itinerary looks good to me, though I’d happily swap one night near Lake Issyk-Kul for an extra night around Kyzyl-Oy.

Happy planning! JF