Kattegat Tour and Norway’s Majestic Fjords – 32 Days (Denmark, Sweden, Norway) (page 2 of 3)

Hello, What a pleasure to read you!! I’m amazed by this report—it’s worthy of a professor! :) I loved your critical and admiring takes. If I ever stay in this lovely country, I’ll definitely follow your advice! Thanks. Muriel

Thanks

(Continued) Day 10 – Tuesday, June 10 – Louisiana Our day is dedicated to discovering the LOUISIANA Museum of Modern Art, located just 40 meters from our holiday spot. Here’s what you can read about this museum: "The Louisiana Museum is one of the most important international museums dedicated to modern and contemporary art. Situated on the northern coast of Zealand and overlooking the sea, it represents a balanced and elegant blend of landscape, architecture, and art."The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located in Humlebæk, a 35-minute train ride from Copenhagen, and typically hosts 6 to 10 exhibitions per year, as well as a permanent collection of 3,500 works (by Giacometti, Asger Jorn, Picasso, Oldenburg...). It was founded in 1958 by Knud W. Jensen, who wanted to create a museum where Danes could admire modern art—something that didn’t exist anywhere before. Over the following decades, through intense exhibition activity, Jensen helped teach Danes how to look at art objects."" It must be said that this museum provides a stunning setting for the works on display, with beautiful openings to the outdoors, allowing you to admire the garden and its sculptures from inside. Some of the indoor exhibits even seem to escape into the garden... This creates a magnificent effect and a perfect communion between art and nature. The museum boasts a collection of major works (Giacometti, Picasso, Asger Jorn, Oldenburg...). I’ve chosen to show you this famous Giacometti sculpture, which wouldn’t be the same without this incredible setting, designed just for it...



This gallery feels like an extension of the garden—or maybe it’s the garden that’s an extension of this glass gallery...



Everything seems designed to let you enjoy the works installed in the garden even on a rainy day, while staying sheltered—and that’s exactly the case today!



The cafeteria opens onto the sea... and Calder...



As you’ve probably gathered, Louisiana gives pride of place to contemporary sculptures. However, it also hosts temporary exhibitions, and the one that particularly impressed us was dedicated to Robert LONGO. This artist draws with charcoal on immense sheets of paper. Beyond the scale of his works, it’s the beauty of his line and the finesse of his art that totally won us over. Here are four of his early works, where you can see figures contorting...



But what he drew afterward is enough to leave you speechless—the intensity of the representation is remarkable!





Unfortunately, I can’t post more photos here, but I encourage you to check out his exhibitions if you get the chance. After all, we do so much hype for a GIM’s concert! I won’t show you what I didn’t like, particularly the exhibition dedicated to Kaari Upson, where I once again wondered: "art or imposture?" And then there are those famous "installations." "Installation is a form of contemporary art that transforms spaces into three-dimensional works, often designed for a specific location (in situ). These works often involve interaction with the viewer, who becomes part of the artistic experience." Okay, sure, I get it—I’ve seen quite a few, but most of the time, it’s just a load of nonsense! And don’t come at me with "the artist meant this or that"... yeah, right, silly me, I just didn’t get it! No, sorry, there are very few "installations" that have provoked strong emotions in me... except maybe Yayoi Kusama’s (Gleaming Lights of the Souls), where you enter a dark room alone on a platform surrounded by hundreds of lights in all colors. Actually, the walls and ceilings are covered in mirrors. These lamps change color, and you feel like you’re in an infinite, beautiful space... except there’s no railing around the platform, and I wasn’t too reassured about falling into the void because I had no idea what was underneath. Apparently, it was just... water!



In the end, Louisiana is a magnificent place where contemporary artworks either repel or seduce, but in any case, they leave no one indifferent.

Day 11 – Wednesday, June 11 – Helsingør

Have you ever heard of Helsingør Castle? This is where William Shakespeare set his famous play *Hamlet*—you know, the one where the guy delivers that iconic line, "To be or not to be," about the meaning of life and death... and in 2025, he still doesn’t have the answer!

The town of Helsingør (Elsinore) is best known for Hamlet’s Castle, Kronborg Slot, but it also boasts some fantastic museums and a charming city center. It’s just 5 km from the Swedish coast, and when you consider the wars between the Danes and Swedes, its strategic importance makes sense.

Originally, I’d only planned to visit the maritime museum—a sleek, modern building that blends into the landscape—but given the opening hours, we started the day with the castle, which turned out to be full of surprises!



Built in Helsingør in 1420, Kronborg Castle was later destroyed and rebuilt, all while maintaining its strategic position on the Øresund Strait. Every ship passing through the Baltic Sea had to pay a toll to the castle, which is why Helsingør was one of Europe’s most important cities at the time.

We first stepped into strange, immersive rooms—probably inspired by Shakespeare’s world—then the dressing room, where you can try on costumes. I didn’t hold back... we were in the theme!



Next, we explored the castle’s historic rooms, most of which had interactive games for kids... and adults! This carpet with its old map of Europe is impressive. If you look closely, you can spot Brussels, Antwerp, Ghent, Douai, Cambrai, and even Kortrijk—but no Bruges. Odd, right?



If you’ve been following our visits, you can probably guess who I’m referencing in this photo taken in a corner of the room*!



Proof that age is just a number:



With all those cannons pointed toward the sea (and Sweden across the way), the castle’s defensive role is clear. The underground passages, though a bit creepy, are absolutely worth exploring. First, there’s the imposing statue of Holger the Dane:



In Denmark, children and adults alike know the legend of Holger the Dane, asleep in the casemates of Kronborg Castle—until the day he wakes to defend the motherland in times of great peril.

For centuries, Holger the Dane has been an important national symbol for the Danes.

Originally, the myth wasn’t Danish but came from *The Song of Roland*, a major work of medieval French literature.

Here’s the story behind the sculpture: In 1907, the Marienlyst Hotel in Helsingør commissioned a bronze statue of Holger the Dane. The plaster model was placed in Kronborg’s casemates and, over time, became far more famous than the bronze statue—until May 2013, when it was moved to the Marienlyst Hotel. The artist was Hans Pedersen-Dan.

In 1985, the plaster sculpture had to be replaced with a concrete one due to the damp climate of the casemates.

Then we ventured deeper into the darkness—some parts were pitch-black (thank goodness for phone flashlights!). A group of young boys was playing pranks, hiding and jumping out to scare each other. At one point, they messed up, and one of them lunged out of the dark screaming—right as I walked by. I was *so* scared I screamed... and then laughed about it afterward!

After all that excitement, we had a light lunch at the Cadet Café (Kadetten). The Royal Cadet School, founded in 1897, was originally located in the castle. The military left Kronborg in 1991, paving the way for its UNESCO recognition. After the military departed, the castle was restored and opened to the public, becoming a major tourist attraction.

Now it was time to visit the maritime museum. While the building’s architecture is stunning, the exhibits are just as impressive.



Like all Scandinavian museums, there’s no chance of getting bored here—the displays are immersive and interactive, designed to engage visitors. It’s a beautiful place; you could easily spend hours there!



On our way out, we visited the Little Mermaid’s brother—a striking stainless steel sculpture by Michael Elmgreen and Ingar Dragset. It’s simple, elegant, and sits at the harbor entrance, framed by old sailing ships, just like in many Scandinavian ports...



The town is charming, with its old streets and half-timbered houses that have stood the test of time.



But it was time to head back to our "big house." After dinner, since the weather was nice, we decided to take a short digestive walk in the area we hadn’t had time to explore yet. Perfect timing, because tomorrow morning we leave. The paths are well-maintained, leading us from the river by the house to a pretty lake, winding through woods and marshes. It was a peaceful, nature-filled moment...

All in all, the day was a huge success. I was a little unsure about visiting Helsingør, and even more so about touring the castle, but I’m completely won over. Plus, the town is lovely—great for a stay or just a drink. Tomorrow, we’ll return to Helsingør to catch the ferry across the Kattegat to Sweden!

* Cornelis GYSBRECHTS (see visit from June 8)

(Continued) Day 12 – Thursday, June 12 – Welcome to Sweden. We leave our spacious home to cross Zealand and its beautiful forests to reach Helsingør. I booked the ferry for 10:30 AM, and honestly, it’s not crowded at all. The crossing is quick, and there’s a duty-free shop on board that we barely have time to explore. After a quick customs check, we drive leisurely through a lovely rolling countryside. We arrive at Tjolöholm Castle and take time for a light lunch on the sunny terrace. The castle café is set near the old stables in a very trendy, chic, and eco-friendly style.



Here’s what Wiki says: The Tjolöholm Castle (Tjolöholms slott in Swedish) is located in Halland Province, Sweden. It sits on a peninsula facing the sea, in the Kungsbacka Fjord on the Kattegat coast. It was built for James Fredrik and Blanche Dickson between 1898 and 1904, based on plans by architect Lars Israel Wahlman, who designed it in a deliberately Anglicized style, blending neo-Tudor influences with the Arts and Crafts movement.



It feels like stepping into a Harry Potter set or an Agatha Christie-themed Cluedo game...



...but what’s surprising are the vast bathrooms with bathtubs integrated into the tiled floors and jet showers—definitely modern for the time!



The garden is lovely and opens directly onto the sea.



After this peaceful and relaxing visit, we quickly reach our next overnight stop—in Gothenburg, specifically at the Barken Viking, a charming four-masted sailing ship turned hotel.



Even though the room is charming, this stop leaves us wanting more because the ship isn’t open for tours. We’re confined to the deck with the bedrooms and breakfast room—it’s frustrating! We can only glimpse the deck from the quay.



We head out to explore the city, which, let’s be honest, doesn’t leave us with an unforgettable memory. This port city, adorned with hundreds of LGBT flags, has modern pedestrian streets and friendly terraces.





Maybe we’d need to stay longer to appreciate it, but tonight we return to our ship and savor the tranquility of the harbor.



(To be continued)

(Continued)

Day 13 – Friday, June 13 – Welcome to Norway Between Gothenburg and Oslo, the Swedish coast is famous for its charming little fishing ports with postcard-perfect scenery. We "drop anchor" in Smögen.



Grab your colored pencils!



The walk along the small harbor with its colorful cabins is really pleasant this morning since there aren’t many tourists...



We’re now heading to Fjällbacka, another small touristy port town. The sun invites us to sit on a terrace by the water. Don’t we look comfy there?



Patrick can’t resist a shrimp sandwich... neither can his wallet! After lunch, I really feel like taking the stairs to see the view from the top of the hill. Patrick doesn’t want to come with me. The stairs aren’t a problem, but the path continues over a rocky scree that’s not easy to navigate. I start climbing anyway, but since I’m alone, I’m afraid of falling and hurting myself. I’ve already taken two tumbles since the start of the vacation—better not push my luck! So, I give up this time!



Between Sweden and Norway, there are no border checkpoints—just a sign telling vehicles with something to declare to take the right lane. We arrive in Oslo. Our accommodation for 3 nights is a guest room in a lovely all-white villa in an upscale neighborhood. When we arrive, several young people are at the house because they’ve organized a "garden party" to celebrate the end of exams. We meet our hosts a little later: Max is British, and his wife is Norwegian. Our room is very spacious, with another nearby room for breakfast. All the houses in this neighborhood are large and beautiful. You can tell we’re in one of Oslo’s posh areas!



Since the weather is still lovely this evening, we head out to eat nearby at a really nice Italian restaurant with a pretty terrace, Peloton Skøyen. Very trendy, upscale vibe.

I chose this B&B for its proximity to FROGNER Park. Some call it VIGELAND Park because it’s also known for what’s called the "Vigeland Installation"—in other words, the entire park is dedicated to this Norwegian sculptor. The sculpture area covers 320 hectares and includes 212 bronze and granite statues, all designed by Gustav Vigeland. A friend told me these works both fascinated and creeped him out. He’s not wrong.



Some of the statues, especially the granite ones, are raw, without frills, and their expressions are quite solemn. What’s striking is that we’re used to seeing different "beauty standards" in Greek or neoclassical statues—very slim and elegant, with pretty girls and muscular men. Here, Vigeland depicts families, children, groups of people who look much more like real life, with women who aren’t super thin and stocky men, and of all ages!



Personally, I find it much more realistic and beautiful. In any case, it’s fascinating, and I can’t stop photographing them! My tip: You can’t visit Oslo without seeing this park! Go preferably at the end of the day in summer—the sunset on the statues makes them even more striking!



This wraps up a lovely sunny day—welcome to Norway!



To be continued...

Hi Sylvie, Just got back from Scandinavia not long ago, and I’m also writing up my travel journal while checking out yours. We’ve got some spots in common—it’ll be fun to compare notes. I had a good laugh at your "adventure" with the metro tickets in Copenhagen. Makes me feel less alone. See you,

Thanks! I also checked out your travel journal. Could I suggest adding the dates? I read that it was during the summer, but still... that’s often what’s missing in these stories. Anyway, when I’m planning a trip, I always look for references like that to figure out the best time to go, even if the weather isn’t an exact science! 😉

Could I suggest you add the dates? I read that it was in the summer, but still... that’s often what’s missing from travelogues.

That’s a good point, I’ll do that! Thanks

(Continued)

Day 14 – Saturday, June 14 - 3 museums! We got the Oslopass for 2 days. It includes entry to most museums and public transport, including the ferry from the port to the Bygdøy peninsula, where the main museums are located. In the end, we definitely got our money’s worth. Since the day promised to be very sunny, we headed to the open-air folk museum. We reached Bygdøy by bus because, in addition to being just a stone’s throw from Frogner Park, our guesthouse was close to public transport. When we arrived at the museum, it wasn’t open yet, but there wasn’t a crowd. So, we calmly made our way to the first buildings, though unfortunately, not all of them were open yet. Luckily, the beautiful stave church was, and a young man in costume welcomed us.





Inside the church, you can admire frescoes painted directly onto the wood.



We continued exploring this rural setting, where most of the buildings are made of wood and often have green roofs.









We finished with the most "recent" part—the 19th-century village and the gas station...







(to be continued)

Saturday, June 14th (continued)

We take the bus again to head to the FRAM Museum, or in other words, the polar exploration museum that’s got rave reviews. And sure enough, this place is extraordinary in its staging and presentation—what could’ve been totally boring is anything but.





Let’s climb onto the ship’s deck and off we go on an adventure! The sea around us rages, then we reach the ice floe... there are even polar bears!





The museum café is closed, so we wrap up our "exploration" and head across to the maritime museum—the door right opposite—since there’s a cozy café there, and most importantly, it’s open! And why not continue the visit? In the museum hall, there are even musicians playing, though unfortunately, they don’t have an audience. What a shame—they’re really good at their classical repertoire!



This museum is really cool too and offers lovely views of the Oslo Fjord.



Do you recognize it?



But it’s time to head back to the city center, which we haven’t explored yet. Of course, we didn’t have time to visit the Kon-Tiki Museum, but I read the book when I was young, so I know a bit about it. Plus, we’ve already visited three museums today—we’re "wiped out"! Our Oslopass lets us take the ferry shuttle from Bygdøy to the harbor, right in the city center near the city hall. From the water, we discover the city and Norwegian customs, like Oslo’s Tjuvholmen Badeplass—the beach—and since the weather’s nice...



The docks are buzzing. Dozens of city workers are preparing for tonight’s event—a free concert in front of the city hall. Meanwhile, we walk along the harbor and Akershus Fortress. Along the docks, we come across more stunning ships, including the three-masted Christian Radich, the training vessel of the Norwegian merchant navy.



We reach VIPPA, Oslo’s street food temple, where we planned to grab a quick dinner... by the water. Not exactly cheap for street food, though!



Afterward, we head to the train station and the city’s main pedestrian street, which doesn’t hold much interest. The shops are already closed, but the terraces are packed thanks to the mild temperature of this beautiful spring evening, which also tempts us to stop for a drink. That way, we can watch all of Oslo’s youth "pouring in" toward the concert square. On our end, we head back quietly by tram to our accommodation, lulled by the sweet, melodic sounds of Norwegian pop! (To be continued)

(Continued)

Day 15 – Sunday, June 15 – All Munch! I’d made sure to keep an eye on the weather forecast for these two days in Oslo. Since yesterday was sunny, it was perfect for visiting the open-air museum. Today, though, the forecast called for a rather gloomy day with some rain—so it was the perfect time to head indoors to the MUNCH Museum. At first, I hadn’t really planned to visit this museum. But the works I saw in Copenhagen eventually won me over. MUNCH (pronounced "MUNK") is a must-see in Oslo! Plus, the building’s architecture is a promise that won’t let you down! The museum was inaugurated on October 22, 2021, by King Harald V. It was designed by the Madrid-based architecture firm of Juan Herreros. It spans 26,300 m², rises 60 meters above the ground, and has 13 floors.



The museum houses over 26,000 works, including 18,000 prints by Edvard Munch. An entire room is dedicated to the famous painting *The Scream*, and three versions—tempera on cardboard (1910?), a lithograph (1895), and a pastel on cardboard (1893)—are on display. One of the three is always visible, while the other two are kept in dim light for preservation. I won’t show it here because it’s so overused that people always associate the artist with this one painting. It’s so reductive...



It’s hard to describe Munch’s painting, a pioneer of expressionism in modern art.

Cupid and Psyche

Some of his works, in my opinion, have an unfinished feel—unless that was intentional. We know he painted a lot. Was he unsatisfied with some pieces? Did he abandon them to create other versions, treating them like drafts or experiments? Or was he moving toward a kind of minimalism? We know he painted extensively. After his death, he donated around a thousand paintings, 4,500 drawings and watercolors, and six sculptures to the city of Oslo. Just like *The Scream*, some of his works exist in multiple versions, including the ones I saw in Copenhagen—a city where he actually stayed.

Workers Returning Home

Munch’s paintings aren’t exactly cheerful. We know he faced death and illness from a very young age, and his life was deeply troubled.



There’s a floor where Munch’s works are displayed alongside those of other contemporary artists like Raoul Dufy and Ludvig Karsten. Here, we also find Gustav Vigeland with a beautiful marble sculpture.

A marble work by Vigeland in perfect harmony with Munch’s universe

Self-Portrait of the Artist An entire floor is dedicated to Munch’s very large "Monumental" works.

Monumental

Understanding lithography, the process Munch used to make his works known

A very interactive workshop

Munch doesn’t bother with frills. His art goes straight to the essential—raw and instinctive. You might love it or hate it, but one thing’s for sure: it won’t leave you indifferent! (To be continued)

(Continued) The Munch Museum is designed across several floors where you can follow the evolution of the painter’s work.



Some floors are dedicated to temporary exhibitions of contemporary artists and installations, which I often struggle with a bit. Note that I’m not finishing my sentence with "to understand" because there’s nothing to understand—it’s all about the feeling... For example, in this large space, there are colored curtains moving, a work by Kiyoshi Yamamoto titled "you are what you are"... well, sure!



The upper floors offer a splendid view of the harbor and the nearby opera house.



But let’s take a closer look at this amazing building!



Wow, that’s something else!

Now, I suggest we take a leap back in time. Our Oslo Pass lets us visit quite a few museums, and there are three on the Akershus Fortress site. First up, the castle. The first stone of Akershus Fortress was laid in 1299 by Håkon V, and it was completed during the 14th century. The medieval castle had a strategic position on Akersneset and endured numerous assaults over the centuries.

Under Christian IV (1588–1648), the castle was modernized and transformed into a Renaissance-style palace. The fortress fell into disrepair during the 18th century, and it wasn’t until 1899 that restoration work began.



You can explore its original medieval remains (from 1300), rooms from the residence of the Danish-Norwegian kings, gloomy dungeons, narrow corridors, and magnificent furnished reception halls. No doubt you could feed a crowd at this table!

The chapel is remarkable.

We skip the Defense Museum and head to the Norwegian Resistance Museum. Everything’s in Norwegian, so we don’t understand much—our visit is quick, but it’s probably great for... Norwegians! Now, let’s head to the City Hall square for a Viking experience, in the Norwegian rain!

This private museum isn’t included in the pass, but I wanted to see it, especially the 3D experience. Well, helmets on—here we go aboard a longship. At first, everything’s fine, but then the boat is attacked by other Vikings, and we don’t make it... There are other interactive spaces and videos about the Vikings... It’s okay, but it could be better, especially for the entry price! Here we are on the docks, specifically in the modern Aker Brygge district. Apparently, it’s always busy here. There are plenty of restaurants, and Norwegians eat early. We opt for Jarmann Gastropub, a no-frills spot with classic food and really friendly service. This nicely wraps up a gloomy day where the weather forecasts kept their promises!

Day 16 – Monday, June 16Heading north. We’ve got a transition day ahead with 454 km to cover as we head north toward the great fjords. The road is pretty monotonous but sunny—at least until our picnic break, where I get to enjoy some delicious Norwegian strawberries! Then the weather takes a turn, and that’s when the mountains finally appear, their snow-capped peaks shining. Along the way, we spot massive waterfalls and "raging" rivers. There’s no shortage of water around here! We finally arrive at Trollstigen Resort, where we’ve rented a cabin. Surprise—they upgraded us to a bigger one than planned, with a wild grass roof and little flowers.





The bad news? Trollstigen Road has been closed since January 2024. Bummer, we missed it! It won’t reopen until July 14. So tomorrow morning, we’ll have to take a 144 km detour instead of the planned 13 km to reach the Trollstigen viewpoint… Hopefully, it won’t rain!

Day 17 – Tuesday, June 17 – A day to forget... How to put it, there are days when everything goes wrong, and you need at least one a month just to be average, right? This one was certainly the worst day of our trip: gray skies, rain, and on top of that, we had to take a 144 km detour through Reistaddalen and Stordal that wasn’t planned just to reach the famous Trollstigen tourist center. Still, we were happy to find snow along the way...



Here we are, finally at Trollstigen, the Troll’s Ladder, where you can see the road winding—this same road that’s closed. We even spot the construction vehicles hard at work.





Even in the rain, it’s still impressive! On the way back, we stop at the Gudbrandsjuvet café, located near a raging river with paths set up so you can admire the power of the water and the waterfalls. A coffee, a croissant, and we’re off again...



...well, not quite, because I manage to slip on the path back to the parking lot—a nasty fall right near the waterfall! I land hard on my stomach and on the camera I’d carefully protected from the rain by tucking it inside my jacket, against my chest. The camera’s fine, but me... I’m in serious pain in my breast and I smash my thumb! At that moment, I’m only worried about the bleeding wound because I don’t feel any pain in my hand or wrist...



After all that drama and a bandage later, we arrive in Geiranger, where we settle in for the night at the Grande Fjord Hotel—a comfortable place right on the fjord. A quick stroll through the village center, where there’s not much to see except a few shops swarmed by the day’s thousands of cruise passengers...





Enjoying a shy ray of sunshine.



Tonight, it’s dinner at the hotel with a super tempting—and addictive—buffet. And Voltaren and ice for my wrist, which is really hurting now!

Day 18 – Wednesday, June 18 – Snow Falls... While a heatwave is settling over Belgium and southern Europe, our day is still looking chilly. The good news is it’s not raining in Geiranger this morning. We head up higher to admire the fjord in all its majesty and stop at the Flydalsjuvet viewpoint.



We continue toward Dalsnibba Viewpoint. The road to get there is toll-based. Once at the top, there’s lots of snow and little visibility over Geiranger. This is the only time we can say "luckily there’s a cruise ship docked below"—it helps pinpoint the location and gives a sense of scale...



Anyway, I’m having fun with the snow! And just like that, it starts snowing for real!



But the best is yet to come as we head toward Grotli to take the scenic Route 258, Gamle Strynefjellsveg. At first, this road feels more like a gravel track than a paved one with all its loose stones.



An ancient glacial valley, this road was the only way south before they built a tunnel. But admit it—it’s much nicer to drive under the open sky, especially since the landscapes are stunning, even in gray weather.



There’s even a ski resort with a chairlift and skiers—everything!



Snow walls



Quick stop at Øvstefossen, another waterfall (being careful not to slip)...



We stop for gas in Folva. There’s a small supermarket and picnic tables—perfect for us. I’d planned to detour to Briksdal Glacier (Briksdalbreen), but that adds about 1.5 to 2 hours, and we’re already running late. Plus, it’s a very touristy spot and a common cruise ship excursion. We opt for Bøyabreen Glacier instead—much easier to access and less crowded.





I’d let our next Airbnb host know we’d arrive between 5 and 6 PM. We pull in at 6 on the dot, and the cottage owner is waiting for us. As usual with all the Airbnbs we’ve booked in Scandinavia, everything’s spotless!

Day 19 – Thursday, June 19 – Snow and Sheep... This morning the weather seems milder, but you never know—we're in the mountains, and the forecast can change quickly. We take the Mannheller-Fodnes ferry, a short 15-minute crossing. Then we head to the Borgund Stave Church (Stavkirke de Borgund), or rather, the two churches.



Everything is well set up here with parking, a visitor center, restrooms, a café, etc.—except this morning, the site is exceptionally closed for a funeral. We can only admire it from the outside. So, we saved the entrance fee, because yes, in Scandinavia, many churches charge admission.



On the road to FLÅM. We then take the scenic Mannheller-Fodnes route, which is much prettier than... the tunnel: 47 km of bliss, sheep included!



Stop at Vedahaugane, a rest area with toilets and... a cave. Here’s what it says: "A work by Mark DION: DEN is an artificial cave of stalactites housing a bear resting on a bed of objects found in flea markets in Norway and abroad. The stack of objects represents cultural history, with Viking-era artifacts at the bottom and contemporary objects on top. A bluish light escapes from the roof opening. Mark Dion draws our attention to the nature around us and the power struggle between humans and nature. Who will prevail: nature, represented by the bear, or culture, which has stolen its original environment and foundation of existence?"

A few more sheep later, we cross snowy landscapes—I love it!





Watch out—there are also cows roaming freely along the way! Then we arrive at Stegastein, an iconic Norwegian tourist spot that blends design with breathtaking nature! This 30-meter panoramic platform sits 650 meters above the Aurlandsfjord. When we arrive, it’s raining, and a bus is unloading a group of Asian cruise tourists, umbrellas and all. What a contrast to the moorland we just crossed! It’s also quite different from the "super polished" photos you find online! Yeah, reality is more like this:



It’s also because we’re near FLÅM, a small village that lives mainly off cruise tourism, like Geiranger. We make a quick stop to scout the spot where we’ll take a boat tour tomorrow. A quick look around the shops, and we quickly realize they all sell the same products—mountain-ready clothing for mid-season. And where do you think these products are mainly aimed? Ah, that’s why there are mostly small sizes... So, back to the sender (and hello, carbon footprint), isn’t that funny? Time to head to our accommodation for the next two nights in the Undredal valley. It’s a charming red chalet. When we arrive, like most "self-check-in" Airbnbs, we follow the instructions to get the key, but we can’t open the door. After several attempts, we have to call the host, who arrives in 5 minutes and fixes it right away. Well, Norwegians might not be very expressive or smiley, but they’re efficient! There’s also an enclosure for the car to protect it from overly curious goats... We’ll later see there are quite a few wild goats in the area!



Otherwise, we still feel like we’re in a ghost town because the surrounding chalets aren’t occupied. We’re alone in this little hamlet lost in the middle of nowhere! Before locking ourselves in our "sweet home," we head to the end of the valley for a short walk, visiting the small village of Undredal and soaking in the tranquility of the place!

Day 20 – Friday, June 20Cruise on the Aurlandsfjord and Nærøyfjord We booked a peaceful ride on the aforementioned fjords (!)... It’s a silent boat (electric) that goes from FLAM to GUDVANGEN. However, what isn’t silent are the tourists on board. There are several ways to approach this. Either take the boat from FLAM and return by bus, take the bus from FLAM and return by boat, or do a round trip by boat. The same options apply from Gudvangen. Since we weren’t in a hurry, we chose to do the round trip by boat from FLAM, and we found it pretty cool because while there were quite a few people in the morning (including cruise passengers), it was much quieter on the way back.



We just glide along the water, between the towering rocky walls of the fjords...



...we pass by Undredal, the small village near our cabin, and arrive in Gudvangen where there’s only one thing to see: the Viking Village.



It’s a sort of Viking-themed attraction where houses have been reconstructed to give the feel of a village.

Entry is pretty expensive, but it’s the only thing to do here, and there are plenty of activities. We actually spent quite a bit of time there and didn’t get bored. We tried axe throwing, archery, and tossing a "broomstick" into a hole...



We enter the longhouse. You have to close the door behind you to stay in the dark. There, the village chief is seated. It took a moment for my eyes to adjust to the darkness, and I jumped when I saw him!



Next, we watch a Viking battle.



A quick coffee before heading back to the boat at a charming vintage café:



On the return trip, the boat approached a waterfall and then some wild goats. The crew had food for them, and it was clear they were used to it!



It was a rain-free, cool, pleasant, and relaxing day—sometimes you just need that!

The Viking village and Nærøyfjord—I’ll be there soon! Nice to see places I visited not long ago. Though there’s way more snow compared to where I am! See you later!

On the other hand, lots of snow compared to us!

Yeah, but that was in June and on small roads.