Preparing for a trip to Sri Lanka (page 2 of 3)

Hi there, Generally, travelers end their trip in the south during this season to relax on the beaches. Around Christmas and New Year, the south of the island will be just as busy—if not busier—than the Cultural Triangle. If you want to avoid tourists, head to Jaffna.

Here are my recommendations: - 1 night in Uda Walawe is enough, especially since you can also do the safari from Tangalle. - I also prefer Haputale to Ella—it’s more authentic. - 1 night in Nuwara Eliya is enough unless you want to see waterfalls, hike the Pekoe Trail, or visit Horton Plains National Park. - There’s no need to stay in Dambulla; you can visit it on the way to Sigiriya or Kandy if you reverse your itinerary. - Mihintale can be visited from Anuradhapura, which will save you from changing accommodations too often. - Kalpitiya is nice but not essential.

By reorganizing your itinerary, you’ll save nights, allowing you to explore the Jaffna peninsula and don’t miss Delft Island, which are spots largely untouched by mass tourism.

Happy planning, and looking forward to hearing from you! Fabien

Dalousie was indeed for Adam's Peak,

Don’t miss it! While my memories of many places I visited are a bit fuzzy, there are three that remain crystal clear in my mind and full of emotion. - Adam’s Peak with its pilgrims unrolling their spools of thread along the path... the wealthy, pot-bellied merchants on their sedan chairs, etc. The temple (and the footprint of Buddha! ) and the view from the top (if the weather’s nice). Don’t make the same mistake I did—climb in the afternoon because of the heat, but early in the morning instead. 😉 - Kataragama during the festival: quite impressive, but you won’t be there during the festivities. The surrounding area—Tissamaharama and its lakes—is worth exploring! - Nuwara Eliya: Very relaxing, and you’ll need a light sweater! There are great walks to do—it’s a bit like the "mountains."

PS: I passed through Galle—no memory of it. 3 nights seems like a lot!

Thanks everyone for these invaluable tips! It's great to find real experts on the place here ¾ @fabien: your site is a real goldmine! 😉 @jean-michel: the site immediately caught my eye, just like the Golden Rock in Myanmar. @ben: I’ve taken all the notes!

I’ll compile all of this. I think I’ll stop trying to be clever and switch to "clockwise" mode, including Jaffna. Either way, there’ll be plenty to see, no matter what ¾ For beach time, any preferences? A little preserved stretch of sand? Talalla for Fabien? 😛

Things must have changed a lot since 1975—it’d be great to hear from people who’ve been there recently—but Hikkaduwa and Bentota were two charming fishing villages nestled in beautiful coconut groves. Surfers were starting to discover the spots. Just a heads-up: the sea was a bit dangerous for swimming. It still is along the entire west coast and even further south. The beach itself, though, is huge. The east coast around Trincomalee is better for safe swimming.

Thanks! =)

At this time of year, you’ll definitely want to head south, but even in the south, some beaches are best avoided. Tangalle is still the best option for peace and quiet overall. And you won’t regret Jaffna—I’m sure of it.

Have a great day!

Fabien

Like Fabien, I prefer Tangalle, but specifically Goyambokka Beach in Tangalle.

@Djalma Hikkaduwa has turned into apartment blocks occupied by the large Russian community, and Bentota into huge hotels surrounded by walls. You and I were in Sri Lanka back in the 70s, and like you, I traveled by road back then. But since I’ve been back often, I’ve seen the changes over the last 40 years.

I can just imagine how attractive the place was even back then, especially for surfers... I still remember a fishing village with canoes on the beach—not a city at all. 🤪 I also learned that after the tsunami, the road and houses that were by the sea were rebuilt further inland.

Hi everyone,

It's tricky to settle on an itinerary, especially since I feel this one could be improved along the way... After much thought, here’s what it might look like—these stops are just bases for exploring the surrounding areas:

Day 1: NEGOMBO 1N to recover from the flight landing at 10 PM D2/D3: KALPITIYA 2N for dolphins and some rest (I’m overwhelmed by the accommodation options) D4/D5: ANURADHAPURA 2N to start exploring D6/7/8: JAFFNA 3N for its tranquility and immersion D9: ANURADHAPURA 1N to break up the journey D10–13: HABARANA 4N because there’s so much to see nearby D14–16: KANDY 3N (any hotel recommendations?) D17/18: HATTON 2N for Adam’s Peak D19/20: HAPUTALE 2N for Horton Plains D21: UDAWALAWE 1N for the safari D22–25: TANGALLE 4N (how is it possible to have so many accommodation choices?) D26: GALLE 1N D27: COLOMBO 1N, since the flight leaves at 2 AM...

I’m really struggling with Booking in Sri Lanka—so many highly rated places seem suspicious. Gotta narrow it down... And the price range is all over the place! Feel free to share your recent favorites 😉 If I’m lucky, I’d love to take the famous train from KANDY to Ella, but I can’t figure out how to fit it with Hatton and HAPUTALE. Any thoughts?

Thanks for your input—it’s been super helpful so far.

Here are a few places along your route—check if they fit your budget!

**Days 14–16 (KANDY, 3 nights)** – Same as before (any hotel ideas?): St. Bridget Country Bungalow or Nature Walk Resort (rooms 14, 4, or 2).

**Days 17–18 (HATTON, 2 nights)** – For Adam’s Peak: Punsisi Resort in Dalhousie and Princess of Dickoya in Dickoya.

**Days 19–20 (HAPUTALE, 2 nights)** – For Horton Plains and Lipton’s Seat: Amarasinghe or Leisure Mount View.

**Day 21 (UDAWALAWE, 1 night)** – For the safari: Nature House (they offer both hotel stays and jeep safaris with a driver for the park).

For the end of your trip, from Galle, I’ll head to Colombo to explore Pettah Market, then up to Negombo for the evening, a shower, and a final meal before the airport.

If I’m lucky, I’d love to take the famous train from KANDY to ELLA. But I can’t seem to fit it in with Hatton and HAPUTALE—any thoughts?

Kandy to Hatton, then two nights later, Hatton to Haputale. My take? It’s tricky to get a reserved seat on this train for a bunch of reasons—everyone wants to take it, but tickets are sold way in advance to guides and travel agencies. If I don’t manage to get a reservation at the Kandy counter, I’ll take the bus to Hatton instead. Then, for Hatton to Haputale, the ticket counter opens an hour before departure, and it’ll be packed like you. The trick is to board the right carriage—if you don’t have a reserved seat, don’t bother trying to sneak in. Just get on a unreserved carriage, toss your bags on the bunks, and prepare for 4 hours standing—but you’ll make friends! Haputale is one hour before Ella on the line.

Thanks Ben for these recommendations, I’ll take a look.

About the cultural triangle, do the timing and the cities you chose seem logical to you? Bruno

Regarding the cultural triangle, do the timing and cities you’ve chosen seem logical to you?

With 4 nights, you’ve got plenty of time—the cultural triangle (Sigiriya and Dambulla), Minneriya National Park. After that, if you’re not already feeling overwhelmed by tourist sites and your entry-ticket budget is limitless, check out the Aukana Buddhas or the ruins of ancient Polonnaruwa. Why try to see everything? I think you’ll enjoy leaving some free time, a little breathing room, to wander and soak it all in.

Thanks for your reply. No worries, the goal isn’t to see everything—quite the opposite! My question was mainly about whether the 3 stops—Kandy/Hatton/Haputale—make sense and if they’re a logical route. Or even if it’d be better to cut it down to 2 longer stops and explore the surrounding areas.

Days 14 to 16: KANDY (3 nights) – same plan (any hotel ideas?) Days 17/18: HATTON (2 nights) for Adam’s Peak Days 19/20: HAPUTALE (2 nights) for Horton Plains

Three nights in Kandy seems good to me. You can visit the botanical garden, the Temple of the Tooth, Ambuluwawa, or Hunas Falls if you have time. You could even take a day trip to the Knuckles Range, but you’ll need a guide. Then, head to Hatton by train or bus, and from there, it’s a two-hour bus ride to Dalhousie for the nighttime pilgrimage. Set off at 2:30 AM—bring something warm to wait for sunrise. That moment among the pilgrims is pretty magical... After descending, have breakfast before taking the bus to Dickoya for a walk around Castlereagh Reservoir and a restful night. The place is stunning. The next day, you’ll head to Haputale, but two nights fly by, and Haputale deserves more time. Watch the sunrise over Horton Plains and explore the park, then the next day, catch the sunrise at Lipton’s Seat and hike back down to Haputale (14 km). Afterward, head to Udawalawe for a safari after lunch. It’s up to you whether these three stops make sense, but for me, they’re a great fit. This part of your trip is the Sri Lanka I love—much more than the sites in the Cultural Triangle. Happy planning!

Thanks Ben, it’s much clearer now. And since Haputale seems way more appealing than Kandy, I’ve shifted one night 😉

Hi Bruno, I’m not sure if “sexy” really fits Haputale, or if it can be compared to Kandy.

Haputale is a large village in the middle of tea fields, much like Ella, but it’s almost untouched by the mass tourism that affects the area. It has the same attractions, but it stays peaceful. So, from there, if you want to see Horton Plains, ask your host to find you a driver who’ll pick you up at 4:30 AM and take you to the park when it opens. Of course, you’ll need an entry ticket, and then the hike to World’s End can begin. At dawn, it can freeze up there... The vegetation is alpine, but there aren’t many animals—just exceptional views. It takes up most of the morning. For Lipton’s Seat, the best thing is to negotiate a tuk-tuk in the village the day before and head there very early. I like walking back to Haputale on foot, but if it’s too long, hop on a bus. The views during this walk are just as beautiful as up there, and you’ll meet people in the small villages. Haputale sits on a ridge, and it gets cold at night, so the road to Lipton’s Seat will be chilly! It’s best to start early because by midday, clouds from the east coast often roll in and settle over the village, leaving it in the mist for the rest of the day. During the day, you might also see swarms of butterflies on their way to Adam’s Peak, where, according to Sri Lankans, they go to die... Before the Pekoe Trail was created, I’d done hikes through the plantations that took me either toward Idalgashinna and back or to Lipton’s Seat but along the higher paths. The Pekoe Trails website offers paid itineraries (stages 12, 13, and 14). For meals, try Risara Baker Restaurant behind the bus stop and Lettuce and Cabbage on the first floor after the level crossing in the middle of the village. Otherwise, on the left sidewalk of the street going downhill, there are a few other restaurants. For places to stay, I’d mentioned Amarasinghe, which has always been my go-to, and Leisure Mount View, a bit farther away but with insane views and right by the Pekoe Trail. When leaving Haputale for Udawalawe, ask your host if there are direct buses. I’ve done it by bus, taxi, and even tuk-tuk, but I’ll let you decide.

More precise than that, you’re killing it—thanks a million! I’ve booked at Leisure Mount View, it looks magical!! Missed out on Princess of Dickoya, it’s fully booked for my dates 🙁

Missed out on Princess of Dickoya—fully booked for my dates.

I’d choose between these two options: either look for a room on Booking around Dickoya and Hatton. The goal was to enjoy a rest day after the Adam’s Peak pilgrimage, and the Castlereagh Reservoir is a great spot for that. Anyway, don’t stay two nights in Dalhousie.

Or, push on to Nuwara Eliya for a nice chilly night under the covers. There’s an early train from Nanu Oya (NE’s station) to Haputale at 9:30 the next day.

Actually, I spent 2 nights in Nallathanniya (Huggins clouds) so I could start the climb directly without a transfer, even though I know the town doesn’t look too exciting 😅. The price was very reasonable, so we’ll see on the way down if we have the energy to go further or if we’ll stay put. At almost 60, you’ve gotta pace yourself ;)

To make your getaway to Adam's Peak a bit easier, Nallathanniya is a terminus village at the bottom of a valley, a two-hour bus ride from Hatton. The bus will take you from one lake to another on small roads winding through hills planted with tea and pine forests. Nallathanniya and Dalhousie are the same village—more like a street lined with hotels and restaurants for pilgrims, plus a huge parking lot for big crowds. Loudspeakers play Buddhist chants at dusk and all night long.

About your choice, Huggins Clouds is right across from the address I suggested: Punsisi, which, oddly, only lists its high-end rooms on Booking, even though they have very affordable bungalows. So no need for a transfer. Some places offer a flat rate for dinner, a short night’s stay, and breakfast on your return, since pilgrims only stay one night.

You can’t skip mentioning your climb to the temple that lights up the summit at night. The path is lit from bottom to top—a glowing garland winding around the Peak. Three levels of difficulty will follow one after another, and in the final staircase, the handrail is a welcome help. It’s possible that crowds at the summit, where you walk around the temple, might be managed by novices who ask you to go back down because it’s packed. Wait for sunrise a little lower down.

Otherwise, the sunrise over the distant mountains and the mist over the valleys always moves me, surrounded by pilgrims of all religions. But since, for Christians, this is the passage between earth and paradise, I have a few thoughts up there for loved ones. The descent leaves some marks on your legs, but with daylight, it’s a beautiful walk back down to the village. On the other hand, if the weather calls for rain, forget it—I’ve tried it...

Hi Ben, and thanks for all these details. So, I’ve adjusted my plans to only spend one night in Nallathanniya, since that seems to be the norm. Especially since I finally found availability at Princess of Dickoya for the next two nights! That’ll help us tackle those 5,000 steps more easily.

In Kandy, I booked at White Lodge—it’s better rated than Nature Walk Resort, and St. Bridget Bungalow was out of budget. Maybe you know it?

Fingers crossed for the weather!

PS: Any great recommendations for our last two nights in GALLE?