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A summer in the sun in... Iceland!! (page 2 of 5)

Discussion started by Marati on 2025-10-24

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This thread has been translated into English.


A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-26 · Message 21 of 87

We weren’t so lucky with the volcanic eruptions—just three weeks after we got back, another one happened! We would’ve given anything for a photo like your avatar 😇!! More to come...

A Summer in the Sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-26 · Message 22 of 87

J6 - 07/11: Dettifoss - Selfoss - Rauðholar

Today, we're heading north towards the port of Húsavík.

But to get there, we're taking the scenic route.

Before leaving the area around Lake Mývatn, we stop at Skútustaðir, a unique site by the lake made up of pseudo-craters. These aren’t real craters since there’s simply no lava chimney underneath.

You could have fun climbing up and down these pseudo-craters covered in moss, but the wind blowing so hard it could knock the horns off a bull doesn’t exactly encourage us to linger!

We continue our loop around the lake. A short distance away, we stop at Höfði, another interesting site by Lake Mývatn, located on a peninsula with strange lava formations and plenty of trees.



In one of the lake’s coves along the park, you can admire lava pillars covered in orange lichen rising out of the water, called Kálfastrandavogar. It’s possible to walk around the peninsula via a small hiking trail. Even though this might seem common in Europe, seeing trees in Iceland is actually pretty rare!

After leaving Mývatn, we take Route 1 for about twenty kilometers before turning onto Route 862, which will lead us to Iceland’s most powerful waterfall duo: Dettifoss and Selfoss!

Once there, the parking is free—something that’s been pretty rare since the start of the trip! However, one thing that hasn’t changed since this morning is the wind, blowing extremely hard from inland. As soon as we step outside, we get blasted with dust and sand in our eyes!!

The approach hike becomes really tough.

A view to the north and the sprawling Selfoss waterfall... You can see all the sand being carried by the gusts!

We’re all tempted to head straight to the majestic Dettifoss, known as Iceland’s—and even Europe’s—most powerful waterfall. At 44 meters high and 100 meters wide, the falls have a flow rate of 500 m³ per second in summer, when the flow is at its strongest.

We’re here at just the right time to take it all in, and we feel tiny next to it!

Following the trail south towards Selfoss, the wind doesn’t let up... we’re eating sand over and over, and woe to those without sunglasses. Even squinting, the poor souls end up in tears...

The return from Dettifoss is so unpleasant that we all agree a distant view of Selfoss is enough. Anyway, we’re planning to come back very soon via the opposite bank, and we figure the view from there should be even better!

So we cut the visit short and head, still along Route 862, towards the Hljóðaklettar parking lot.

A "two-in-one" hike awaits us there. Even though the main goal is Rauðholar, a mountain with red and black slopes, we’ll reach it by crossing remarkable basalt formations.



Volcanic chimneys and other basalt columns follow one after another

until we reach Kirkjan in Hljóðaklettar, a cave-like formation and the main highlight of the hike. You can just imagine the pressure that caused this lava flow to lift...



The trail takes us higher, and we reach the viewpoint over Rauðholar, offering a panorama of the Jökulsá gorge and the forests surrounding Ásbyrgi.

It’s now forbidden to venture further to avoid damaging the site and keep the slopes free of footprints. The return is via another path, much less steep and quicker.

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-26 · Message 23 of 87

The days are definitely very long in July, which lets us make a detour to the Ásbyrgi canyon. You can access this natural amphitheater from the top or the bottom. Since the bottom access is much easier, that’s the option we go for.

A short 15-minute walk takes us to the little Botnstjörn pond.



You can also get a nice view of the pond from a platform under the western cliff of the canyon. A stone staircase leads to a small hill where the view of the canyon is stunning.



The scenery changes when we arrive in Húsavík, the capital of the North, located at the very edge of the Arctic Circle.

After pitching our tent for the first time at the municipal campsite, we hurry to the harbor, the starting point for so many activities!



A few typical buildings... This restaurant catches our eye, but a quick look at the menu cools us down—even the most basic dishes start at 30-35 €...



We decide to head a bit farther out and eventually find our spot at a pizzeria with more reasonable prices, though dinner ends up being just... pizza.

Yep, the prices for more elaborate dishes are mind-blowing and way out of our budget, especially for five of us. 😕

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-28 · Message 24 of 87

J7 - 07/12: Whale Watching - Dettifoss - Selfoss

Ten years... Ten years already since I first promised the family we’d go see whales.

And yet, we came up empty in Scotland in 2014. Same in South Africa in 2016. In 2021, in Mexico, it was Maxime’s health issues that kept him from swimming. So there was no way we were going to swim with whale sharks and leave him behind...

So here we are, setting off on this whale-watching excursion, ready to break the bad luck!



As the boat’s name suggests, we chose the tour operator "Friends of Moby Dick."

Off we go for a 3-hour ride. The weather is perfect, just like almost every day since the start of the trip. A glassy sea... our stomachs are grateful. I’d read quite a few accounts of people getting sick depending on the weather conditions.

Facing us, the impressive Kinnarfjöll mountains on the other side of the bay.

After half an hour, we’re rewarded with the sight of a humpback whale and her calf—😇!

The guide doesn’t hold back on the superlatives and tells us we’re *extremely* lucky to see a mom with her baby! We don’t *have* to believe her, knowing that Húsavík is famous for being the whale-watching capital of Europe...

The whale treats us to several jumps out of the water. I just manage to capture it—😇 😇!



We stay with this pair for a while. A few playful moments that let us see their pectoral fins as they pivot...



Sometimes, the whale and her calf pop their heads out of the water at the same time.



And a fluke shot—not as easy to get as you’d think...

After about an hour spent with this pair, with the guide’s excited exclamations keeping everyone’s attention, we think we spot a huge shape in the distance. The boat’s captain hurries to approach another boat.

A few minutes later, we see a massive blue-gray shape emerge from the water. No doubt about it—it’s a blue whale, the largest mammal on the planet!

The big challenge with blue whales is that they stay underwater for a good 15 minutes without coming up for air. So it’s a bit of a lottery to be near the spot where they’ll resurface. Every time they come up, there’s a big cheer from the crowd, the captain guns the engine to get closer, a few mediocre zoom shots are taken from too far away, and then another 10-15 minute wait...


A Summer in the Sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-28 · Message 25 of 87

At this little game, another hour quickly passed, and we had to hit the road back to the port of Húsavík.

In one of the few clothing stores in town, we took the opportunity to buy Maxime a third pair of shoes—sneakers this time. He’d had the bright idea of not wanting to break in his two pairs of high-top Gore-Tex hiking shoes before the trip, insisting everything would be fine, and ended up with sore Achilles tendons in both pairs 😠.

Given the hikes we’ve got coming up in the next few days, it’s better to plan ahead...

Instead of continuing along the north coast toward Raufarhöfn as originally planned, we decided to take it a bit easier by cutting down on travel time. So, we headed straight toward the center of the island, taking Route 864.

Along the way, we were set for another encounter with the famous Dettifoss and Selfoss waterfalls—but from the other bank.

From this side, you can easily access a third waterfall, Hafragilsfoss, downstream from the two better-known ones.

We didn’t pass up the chance, and found ourselves all alone, far from the crowds gathered in front of its two sisters!



You can see the thick mist from Dettifoss in the distance.



We parked a bit farther away to take the walk to Dettifoss, which wasn’t showing its best side.



On the other hand, the angle was perfect for the multiple cascades of Selfoss.

I was the only one brave enough to get that close—my clothes and DSLR were getting soaked fast from all the water and mist spraying everywhere! The rest of the family wisely waited about a hundred meters away...





For the night, we stopped at the Fjalladyrd campsite, in the middle of nowhere. No hot water in the little hut for cooking or doing dishes, but at least the showers were nice and hot...

A Summer in the Sun in... Iceland!!

Muriel18 · 2025-10-29 · Message 26 of 87

This latest waterfall is incredible! And how lucky we were to see a blue whale! 🤩

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-29 · Message 27 of 87

Muriel, We were actually lucky with the whale watching this time, after all these years of trying 😉 !

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-29 · Message 28 of 87

Day 8 - 07/13: Studlagil Canyon - Seyðisfjörður

For our first foray into the Highlands, what better than the Askja volcano and its famous milky-blue lake in the middle of a lava desert! Askja is completely isolated in the center of Iceland, far from any town and main roads, and we’ll need to take dirt tracks for over 2 hours.

Today is the first day the F910 track opens, so we’re not going to miss out! There are even one or two cars ahead of us at the campsite, heading into the heart of the island.

We leave the small hamlet and its typical houses behind,

to take the F910. We drive at a reasonable distance behind a Landcruiser that lets us pass to snap a few photos.

It’s true that, despite the prevailing gray, a special atmosphere emerges

The first river crossing is a simple formality. However, the second one, about 30 km from the campsite at the start of the track, is deeper.



We proceed slowly but steadily. The riverbed isn’t smooth—there are a few rocks. It’s bumpy, really bumpy. As we exit the water, we hear a hissing sound... 😠

Quick, I roll down the window, and unfortunately, there’s no doubt—we’re getting a flat! And not just a little one... 🏴‍☠️ 🏴‍☠️

We pull over to the side to look for the puncture. No need to search long—the tire’s sidewall is torn. Ouch, ouch... Looking back, I think the motorcyclists who crossed the river just before us might have moved some big rocks while accelerating in the riverbed.

A quick glance at my smartphone—no network coverage. No way to call our rental company, so we’ll have to figure it out on our own!

All that’s left is to empty the trunk, searching for the spare tire. And when we lift the trunk floor, in the space meant for the spare, we find... the battery of our hybrid SUV, with just some kind of canister we have no idea what to do with 🤪!!!

We really look like newbies! Even though we’re used to off-road trips, I didn’t think to check if the SUV had a spare tire when we picked it up! Newbies, I said 🏴‍☠️...

Knowing the vehicle is approved by our rental company, Lava Car (I’m repeating the name for anyone listening...), I never would’ve imagined it wouldn’t come with a spare tire!!

The people in the Landcruiser following us closely—French tourists—stop to offer help. Not much use, since they can’t lend us their spare tire. They just seem relieved they spent 5000 € on renting a real 4x4. Yeah, that’s the astronomical price you pay to drive stress-free in the Icelandic Highlands 😕!

Since we always have a plug kit in our luggage, I insert one into the hole. Not enough... I add a second, being careful not to push the first one inside the tire. Still not enough—there’s some play. Finally, with a third plug, it seems to hold, but we wonder how long it’ll last once we’re driving and the tire is inflated.

I then pull out our compressor, which we always carry, to slowly inflate the tire. At 1 bar, it holds... 1.4 bar, still holding. Not wanting to push our luck, I stop at 1.7 bar, as if we were driving on sand.

We turn back—it’s clear we’re not risking the adventure to Askja anymore. Our goal is simple: cross the river again without losing our plugs, then reach civilization.

This second crossing is even slower, but luckily, we don’t hit any new rocks. As we exit the water, we stop immediately—happy surprise, the plugs held, no hissing!!

We drive at a max of 30 km/h on the F905 track heading north, then turn right onto Austurleid, aiming to reach Studlagil Canyon calmly.

This detour means more off-roading, but if the plugs held for 10 km, why wouldn’t they hold for 50 km? Luck is on our side, and we reach Studlagil without any other issues—plus, there’s network coverage here.

We’ll call the rental company later. We park in the paid lot closest to the canyon, on the south bank. To park for free, you’d have to add a 4.5 km round-trip walk. Between a 1-hour walk and 1000 ISK (7 €) for parking, my knee made the choice quick. Laetitia too, for that matter!

Almost unknown 5 years ago when I planned the first version of this road trip, Studlagil Canyon is now super famous thanks to its Instagram-worthy vibe! They’re even paving the access track!

After a quick picnic in a meadow, we start the 2 km walk along the canyon—pretty nice, with several waterfalls to keep us entertained.

No surprise, we’re far from alone on the trail!

At the end, we start to understand why

Here are the first basalt columns lining the turquoise-blue waters of the Jökla River!

The most incredible part? This canyon was completely unknown in 2017... It was only after the 2009 construction of the Hálslón reservoir and the massive Kárahnjúkar hydroelectric plant further south that the basalt columns, previously underwater, were revealed!

What makes this canyon special is also the stunning, ever-changing color of the waters flowing through it. On some summer days, the Jökla’s water is crystal clear, taking on a turquoise-blue hue that leans toward emerald green. Other days, the color tends more toward a dark brown-green, less photogenic.

Looks like we hit a good day...! 😇

We can’t get enough of these basalt columns from every possible angle!

Across the way, the view from the north bank—way less photogenic, as you can imagine from what those tourists are seeing from the esplanade.

Back at the car, we head toward Egilsstaðir, the area’s biggest town. On the way, we call Lava Car to explain our flat and ask which garage in Egilsstaðir we should go to for a tire change.

After another hour of driving at 60 km/h on a road where everyone happily passes us, we finally find the garage. Once there, we have to call the rental company again—they want the mechanic to confirm the tire change is really necessary...

Since a picture’s worth a thousand words, here’s one for you!



I’ll let you imagine the mechanic’s face when he saw the makeshift repair!! He then found the right words to get the rental company’s approval to change the tire... Good thing we took the Full Protection option—it didn’t cost us anything. Then again, since we always have car troubles, we cover ourselves as much as possible.

After hanging up, he asked how many kilometers we’d driven with those plugs. When I told him 170 km, he was impressed, almost shocked 😏!!!

While waiting for the repair, I suggest the family take advantage of the mild coastal weather and camp in Seyðisfjörður, the prettiest town in the Eastfjords.

Everyone’s on board, especially with this amazing weather we’ve had since arriving in Iceland 8 days ago!

Around 5 PM, we take the pass on Route 93 with the setting sun. At the top of the pass, the landscapes are just stunning!!

While most drivers speed along the road, we prefer to wander near a lake still partially frozen and covered in ice sheets. What a country!!

A little further, another lake, another scene!


A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-10-29 · Message 29 of 87

As we descended the pass, our eyes were drawn to the mountains covered in moss and grass,

but especially to the stunning Gufufoss waterfall, sending up its plume of mist amid the greenery!



Our first mission in Seyðisfjörður was to find the municipal campsite, included with the Camping Card, which means it’s free for all annual cardholders (at 170 €). As expected, it was packed, and we had to skillfully maneuver the car to find a makeshift parking spot and pitch our tent on a pseudo-campsite.

Once the tent was up, we headed to the reception to pay for our night and the showers.

Then, we wandered into town.

Seyðisfjörður is a charming little fishing port with colorful houses nestled at the end of one of the Eastfjords, giving off a real "end of the world" vibe! We instantly fell in love with this idyllic setting...

Tourists were sitting at outdoor terraces enjoying a drink, kids were playing in the green spaces, and Icelanders were having fun canoeing on the Lónið, a small lake that connects the river to the ocean...

At the end of the rainbow-colored main street stands the village’s quaint church, built with sky-blue corrugated metal walls.



What to say about this end of the day... We were supposed to camp by Lake Askja and would have likely slept under a gray, overcast sky. But Iceland’s incredible variety in scenery, atmosphere, and landscapes made this backup evening in such a charming spot so enjoyable—almost making us forget the missed rendezvous with the volcano...

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-03 · Message 30 of 87

J9 - 14/07: Puffins at Borgarfjarðarhöfn - Stórurð hike

Since the Askja trip was canceled, we already covered the long road to Egilsstadir yesterday, and now we can explore more of the area north of Egilsstadir, including a last-minute discovery hike that’s an absolute must...

Before leaving Seyðisfjörður, we head down the Skalanes road along the south side of the fjord.

A few friendly encounters,



Then we decide not to risk crossing a ford just a short distance from the end of the track, and turn back promptly—today, we’re hoping to spot our first puffins of the trip!

Another stop at Gufufoss waterfalls, which look even more magical in the early morning light 😇



One last glance at the fjord,

and we head back to Egilsstadir, pass the garage again, and take the road north.

I’d noted two stops along the way: the first is Geirsstaðakirkja, a traditional chapel with a thatched roof guarded by a few sheep,

The second is Kirkjubæjarkirkja, a black-painted church with a red tin roof, completely isolated in the middle of nowhere. There’s not a soul for miles around.



We make one last stop on Route 94 in the small village of Bakkagerdi for a photo of a traditional turf-roofed house that’s been my desktop background on one of my PCs for months!

Its name is Lindarbakki—you can’t miss it, as it’s right by the main road!

In my opinion, the most beautiful house we’ve seen in Iceland... What charm, a real postcard 😇 😇 😇!

And here we are at Borgarfjarðarhöfn harbor,



where, after a quick picnic, we take the short trail leading to the peninsula famous for hosting one of Iceland’s largest puffin colonies!

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-03 · Message 31 of 87

Going to Iceland without seeing puffins is a bit like going to Peru without visiting Machu Picchu 😏! Okay, fine, I’m exaggerating a little...

The area is well laid out: wooden stairs and paths, railings to avoid disturbing the puffins in their natural space, and even an isolated observation post with openings to better watch the birds and set up your zoom lens.

The puffins were out in full force for our delight. We were lucky—even in broad daylight, they were very active.





These birds are hilarious and not at all shy—some even come within a few dozen centimeters of us without fear.

Their routine is always the same: take off, dive into the water, go catch a few fish, then bring them back to their pantry.

This was the first time I realized how limited my camera is. I don’t know if it’s the body or the speed of the lens’s autofocus, but I could barely get a sharp shot. Oh well, let’s just say the puffins are too hyper... 🏴‍☠️

Some specimens are deep in meditation or just resting.





Others are singing, scratching, or busy fishing.



After an hour and a half of observation, we tear ourselves away from this magical place—definitely one of our best travel memories! !

A Summer in the Sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-03 · Message 32 of 87

Heading to the trailhead for the Stórurð hike, or "Giant Rocks," some photos of which I came across just days before our departure and really got my mouth watering. Actually, the difficulty of access was as much of a draw as the photos of the turquoise lake at the summit, but I’m keeping that quiet from the family...

There are three possible routes: hikes #9 and #10 are around 5-6 km one way with a steep elevation gain and technical sections, while #8 is 7.5 km one way but with a constant gentle incline, making it easier on my knee despite the extra distance. At the trailhead, we learn that the hike is discouraged in favor of #9 and #10 to protect the vegetation, but it’s not forbidden.

We decide to go for it anyway, even though it’s already 3:30 PM and we’ve got at least 16 km of hiking ahead! Is this really a good idea? Probably not, but since we won’t be back in the area for years, we might as well be adventurous!

The approach walk, which was supposed to be less scenic, is still pleasant with great views all along, plus several streams and marshy areas to cross.

What a view of the coast!

Some waterfalls have a stronger flow and are trickier to cross.

As we get closer to the stunning, rugged mountains of Dyrfjöll, the ground becomes increasingly damp, even spongy, and our sneakers take a beating...

Once there, the loop winding around the lakes and mountain rivers with its meanders is just breathtaking!

The scenery looks like it was specially designed, even though it’s completely wild...

The last few hundred meters to reach Stórurð Lake feel really long—our legs are already tired. Some areas are still quite snowy. The huge rock formations become more and more frequent; we’re almost there 🙂



And around a bend, we reach our goal after 8 km of effort.

Stórurð, an oasis of turquoise pools surrounded by enormous boulders, whose origins date back to the last glacial period—these massive rocks were likely left here as the glaciers receded.

The view is stunning 😎, leaving us speechless. Stórurð is undoubtedly one of the hidden gems of the Eastfjords, and we know we’re incredibly lucky to enjoy it under a clear blue sky and in T-shirts !!

The light and color of the lake change as we get closer.

At the edge of the lake, thanks to the low water level over the ice blocks, the mix of white, sky blue, turquoise, and deeper blue gives the site an otherworldly feel.



We could easily spend hours just gazing, but it’s 6:10 PM, and if we want to have dinner at a pizzeria in Egilsstaðir, we’d better get moving on the way back...

On the way down, the same green meadows, marshy areas, small ponds, and waterfalls, but we don’t take much time to stop—our stomachs are growling.

It was so warm in the late afternoon that our water supplies are empty. No problem refilling with crystal-clear water from one of the mountain streams 😉!

At 8 PM sharp, after 1 hour and 45 minutes of hiking, we complete our 8 km of gentle downhill.

No time to waste—we quickly head back to Egilsstaðir and have dinner at Askur Tapromm and Pizzeria, which offers very reasonable prices for Iceland! Plus, the pizzas and beer are excellent, the perfect way to cap off one of our best days!!

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Muriel18 · 2025-11-04 · Message 33 of 87

It's truly magnificent under the sun! (and probably even more so "in person")

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Deshawne · 2025-11-05 · Message 34 of 87

Hi Guillaume, Thanks for sharing your trip! Your story is captivating, especially with those amazing photos. I’m totally into it—it really makes me want to go!

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Rouquine38 · 2025-11-07 · Message 35 of 87

Oh! Glad your travel journal popped up in my reading suggestions... you didn’t even announce it 😅. I’ll read it when I’ve got a clear head because I can see I’m way behind, so I’m jumping in mid-journey with you all 😊. Iceland—what a stunning country! I never wanted to set foot there because of the cold, the rain... everything I *hate* 😂, but we ended up visiting twice in one year. I’ll share more once I’ve sorted through my photos 📸

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-08 · Message 36 of 87

It's truly magnificent in the sunshine! (and probably even more so "in person")

We were so lucky to do this hike in T-shirts under a radiant sky! Our French guide during our day at the glacier was simply amazed... and whispered that Stórurð was the best hike you could do in Iceland.

We were happy to believe him, until we reached Landmannalaugar or Pakgil...

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-08 · Message 37 of 87

Hi Guillaume, Thanks for sharing your trip! Your story is captivating, especially with those fabulous photos. I’m totally into it—it really makes me want to go!

Hey Daniel, Welcome to this travel journal, a nice change from the ochre rocks of the West ;) ! I see you had to tweak your username a bit—first post and all... See ya!

A summer in the sun in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-08 · Message 38 of 87

Oh! Good thing your travel journal popped up in my reading suggestions... you didn’t even announce it 😲. I’ll read it when I’m more relaxed because I see I’m way behind, so I’m jumping in mid-journey with you 😊. Iceland, a stunning country I never wanted to set foot in because of the cold, the rain... everything I love 😂, but we’ve traveled there twice in one year—I’ll tell you all about it once I’ve sorted through my photos 📸

Hi Isabelle, Thanks for joining in! I really should’ve posted something on my FB wall because it feels like fewer of us are automatically and regularly checking out VF. It’s too bad, really. I’ll happily read your future travel journal about this destination we loved, despite a few flops in the Highlands...

A sunny summer in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-08 · Message 39 of 87

Day 10 - 15/07: Hengifoss Waterfall - Mjóifjörður Fjord

This morning, we had breakfast on the terrace of our BnB "Hof," which offered a stunning view of Lake Lagarfljót. Who would’ve thought we’d be having breakfast in T-shirts in Iceland!? We’ve been traveling for 10 days, and it’s been sunny almost every single one!

We’re not getting too cocky, though—the forecast for the next few days is taking a turn for the worse just as we’re heading into the "must-see" spots... Pakgil, Jökulsárlón, Landmannalaugar, and more.

In the area, there are two remarkable waterfalls: Hengifoss, which faces east (so best in the morning), and Strutsfoss, which faces west (planned for this evening if we feel like it).

To get to the Hengifoss trailhead, we drove along Lake Lögurinn. When we arrived, the parking lot was packed.

No surprise—it was past 10 a.m., the hike is relatively short, and it’s the third-tallest waterfall in the country on the classic tourist route.

Halfway there, we stopped for a photo at Litlanesfoss, nestled at the base of a cliff adorned with basalt columns!

Then, after a steady and easy climb, Hengifoss revealed itself—a 120-meter waterfall set in an amphitheater of red and black rock strata!

The descent gave us a chance to enjoy some gorgeous views!



After Seyðisfjörður Fjord, the second fjord I absolutely wanted to visit was Mjóifjörður—a remote, little-known, and therefore barely visited spot!

We had to take a small unpaved road and cross a mountain pass.

The access road was stunning! At the top of the pass, there were still patches of snow on the ground and ice.

As soon as we crossed to the other side, we were treated to an absolutely breathtaking panorama of the fjord!!

We drove through beautiful meadows, with lingering snow patches and several waterfalls cascading down the mountains. The narrow dirt road wound down the pass into the fjord after an impressive number of switchbacks.

Halfway down the fjord, we couldn’t miss the stunning Klifbrekkufossar. With at least 6-7 visible cascades from the roadside, the waterfall tumbled down the cliffs in a lush green setting. Everyone was enchanted!



Once we reached the edge of the fjord, we easily spotted the wreck of an old boat that’s been stranded since 1966 and rusting ever since.



For once, we’re going to bend the rules—no one’s really up for visiting another waterfall, Strutsfoss, which is *supposedly* a little less impressive than Hengifoss... The rest of the day will be relaxed, with no other activities planned besides dinner at our BnB.

A Sunny Summer in... Iceland!!

Marati · 2025-11-08 · Message 40 of 87

Day 11 - 07/16: Viking Village - Jökulsárlón - Fjallsárlón

Today, we’re heading into the southern region, the most touristy part of the island, and strangely, the accommodation options are really limited. Supply and demand have done the rest, and it’s super tricky to find places to stay for less than 400-500 € per night...

So, I built the itinerary backward, starting by searching—often for a long time—for budget-friendly stays, still around 200-300 € per night , then planning the day’s schedule around them!

Our next stop is Svinafell, so a long day of driving awaits. For once, to leave the Eastfjords, we’re cheating on the Ring Road (Route 1) by taking a shortcut via Route 95 and then Route 939.

The latter, more of a gravel road, is famous for its landscapes, with several waterfalls.

Its reputation isn’t overrated—the descent toward the coast is absolutely stunning!





Route 1, which runs along the ocean, offers beautiful views. We stop at Hvalnes Nature Reserve without really knowing what there is to do there. Not much, apparently, except for a walk along the strip of land...

Our next stop is a reconstructed Viking village nestled at the foot of Vestrahorn Mountain, which is 10 million years old—one of the few mountains in Iceland made of gabbro, the main component of the lower oceanic crust. The oldest evidence of human life in Iceland was found here.

The light and the color of the rock are almost surreal—we love it...







Fun fact: this village is artificial and was created in 2010 for a film with Mel Gibson that was never actually made.

The visit is pretty quick—all the Viking village buildings are, logically, still in great condition.



Next, we head toward Stokksnes Beach, one of Iceland’s most beautiful, with its black sand dunes.



There are several hiking trails that offer different angles of Stokksnes with Vestrahorn Mountain in the background. But the wind is strong and cold, making the walk less enjoyable.

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