Densha Otaku - A Southern Loop (page 2 of 2)

Two days of well-known spots in a row. Is there really nothing new left to do in Japan? Of course not—today it’s Shimabara. Or at least what’s left of it after several line cutbacks. No complaints, I love it.





While hunting for photo spots, we end up in quiet little neighborhoods that are really pleasant under the already warm—but not yet scorching—sun in late April.

A change of scenery—just a few hours on the shinkansen, and here we are in Osaka.

We were met by a friend of a friend who showed us around Hankai. But first, we headed to Ogaki for the Tarumi Tetsudo.

The Hankai with a local photographer isn’t bad at all. He already knows all the best spots.

Back to Ogaki, this time for the Yoro Railway. It’d be worth spending a bit more time there. The whole region, really. Gotta replan!

Let's dive into the Sangi Railway now. First up is the Hokusei Line. It runs on very specific rolling stock and has a 762 mm gauge—a rare surviving example of this gauge in Japan. This was once common in remote rural areas, but most of these lines were closed in the 1960s and 70s.









At the terminus, an old railcar from the line is on display.

We take the train back to Toin and then hop on this tiny bus from Hobo to reach the other Sangi line, all the way to the terminus at Nishi-Fujiwara, where various vehicles are on display.

Step-by-step return—first, Higashi-Fujiwara, hoping to see the trains carrying cement. We didn’t see much, but it’s definitely worth spending a few hours there. Need to replan.





Then, a private open-air museum focusing on freight wagons. It’s located along Nyūgawa Station.

Then it’s back to Kintetsu-Tomida,



A bit of Shinkansen to the hotel before a long day tomorrow.

First stop of this penultimate day: heading to Mino-Ōta to catch the Nagaragawa Railway.





Even though it wasn’t planned, the railcar serving this train is the same one used for special trains, discovery tours, and group visits. A beautiful railcar—comfortable and impeccably maintained.



We’ve entered Gifu Prefecture, a region almost unknown to foreign tourists but one that will always be a lingering regret for me. I wish I’d taken more time to explore it before the Gifu trams were discontinued. If I’d known, if I’d had the means back then, I would’ve dedicated almost an entire trip to it. We’ll try to console ourselves (or just get a little down about it, depending on the mood) by getting off in Mino and visiting the old Meitetsu station, which houses some iconic vehicles from the line.

Let's continue with the Nagaragawa toward Hokunō. Return to Mino-Ota on the railcar themed around the fish of the Nagara River, followed by a long journey back to Tokyo.

A complete change of pace—big city life. Not really my cup of tea, but it’s pretty much a must for shopping, seeing friends, and witnessing a revolution. The country’s first new tram line since the war. Super modern, super functional, it connects Utsunomiya Station to the industrial district, mainly frequented by Honda workers and their subcontractors. And here we are, right in the middle of the Japanese paradox.



Infrastructure? Check. Rolling stock? Check. Operations? Check. Public success and ridership? More than check. The line opened just under a year before my visit. All the drivers are new since the line is brand new, and so are the trams. Of course, it takes time to get the hang of things—learning to drive doesn’t happen in a week. Well, moving the tram, sure, but *actually* driving? Not so much. But almost a year to get comfortable? They were taught to be afraid before they were taught to drive. Limited to 40 km/h when everything allows for 70 km/h outside the city. Honking and braking at the slightest pedestrian or intersection. No priority at traffic lights. I know, it’s the Japanese mentality—one that’s even spread to the Western world over time. But for someone like me, who learned to drive from old-school instructors, it’s baffling that they’re not using this line more efficiently. Sure, my friends tell me that after a break-in period (almost a year, though), the speed limit will be raised to 70 km/h, that drivers need to learn, and that there’s the Japanese public transport law with all its regulations dating back to the early 1900s. But come on—when are they going to adapt the rules and mindsets to today’s technology?









It’s on this existential note that we head back to Tokyo to spend the evening with friends at an izakaya located practically on the Arakawa tram platform. Arakawashako-Mae—literally “In front of the Arakawa depot.”



Tomorrow, it’s shopping and then off to Narita in the evening. That’s how my 10th trip to Japan comes to an end. The first was in 1993, and the next will be in 2025. Another travel journal in the works!

Thanks to all the readers who stuck with me till the end. Japan remains, for better or worse, a magnificent obsession for rail enthusiasts.

I still remember that trip in 1993 and the week we spent in Kurashiki, visiting the Seto Ohashi, Shikoku Mura, and, above all, Hiroshima and its trams. For me, it was the third of my eight trips.

Next up, Heiseichikuho. Another local company that’s also under threat. Gonna have to plan a second visit before it possibly closes.

Unfortunately, the closure is confirmed. The line will be replaced by a bus service, but there’s no date yet (though it won’t be before April 2027, according to the official announcement).

I’ve gotta ride it at least once too.