Off on a winter adventure in the American West! (page 2 of 5)

Day 6 (continued)



So, what’s on the cowboy shelf for you? Around here, all the western elite are kicking up dust in Tombstone—the town that lent its name to the film that immortalized the legendary OK Corral shootout. Sure, Kurt Russell and Val Kilmer aren’t flashing their sheriff badges on Tombstone’s dusty streets anymore, but the movie scenes play on loop in the saloons that’ve stayed true to the era. There’s this timeless, old-timey vibe clinging to the weathered wooden facades and creaky boardwalks... Just add an epic Ennio Morricone soundtrack, and you’d almost feel like drawing your colt. Anyway, Flo and the girls are totally channeling their inner ladies of the time!

















Alright, we’re closing this western chapter. Back on the road through the no man’s land along the Mexican border, with the sweet sound of an old country guitar playing through the speakers to while away the miles... Feels good, doesn’t it?

Day 7 – February 20

No light pollution. Not a single car engine hum. Just the chilling howl of a few coyotes cutting through the night... Around us? Nothing. No gas station, not a single village, not even a corner shop or a Euromarché. A hundred kilometers of interstellar emptiness surround us... At this point, you’re probably thinking Maurice has taken the whole "absolute isolation" thing a bit too far, right?... Well, here’s a rule to remember about the American West: Even when you think the situation is hopeless, that the horizon has nothing left to tell you, a natural wonder will inevitably appear and stand in your path. That’s the story of Chiricahua National Monument. That’s the story of this new day.



Here, this new, almost surreal landscape was born from a cataclysm. "Jamy, can you tell us more?" Actually, 25 million years ago, a titanic volcanic explosion sent ash and pumice flying into the air, which piled up in the area to nearly six hundred meters thick! Father Time then took his tools to compact, solidify, and transform this hot mess into tuff. Add in the helping hands of Water, Frost, and Erosion, and you get this work of art—a forest of stone columns straight out of *Avatar*. Fun fact from the past: This land of balancing rocks was the labyrinthine, impregnable stronghold of the Apaches, led by Cochise and Geronimo! Fun fact from the present: This land of balancing rocks is an "unbelievable" park that’s wildly underrated and unfairly unknown, mostly because of its isolation and distance from the usual tourist routes... According to my very serious cognitive sociological analysis, if we had this park back home in France, it would *definitely* be our national gem, and everyone would come from all corners of the hexagon to see it. Here, it’s just one natural wonder among many, and all we hear are our own footsteps as we hike the fourteen kilometers of the Ed Riggs, Mushroom Rock, Big Balanced Rock, Heart of Rocks Loop, and Echo Canyon trail combo we put together. Fourteen kilometers of silence, stacked rocks, and breathtaking views. Another feast for the eyes!

Day 7 (continued)

So no, we didn’t come here to get lost. But contrary to appearances, we didn’t come all this way just for that park either—it was really just a stopover. Our ultimate goal, the site our whole itinerary was built around, is even farther away. It’s also supposed to be even more beautiful. The object of my desires! My fantasy, my fear, too. Fear of disappointment... White Sands...

How do you get from point A to point B? After endless straight roads, there’s little chance you’ll stumble upon the White Sands desert by accident. You drive for hours through the middle of nowhere and—bam! To give you an idea, the nearest big city is Albuquerque, about 270 miles to the north. Quite the detour for yet another stretch of sand, you might say! Okay, but not just any sand! Because if your 5th-grade English is up to scratch, you’ll have figured out that the sand here is whiter than white. And since you’ve got 6th-grade geology knowledge, I’ll be more precise. It’s not actually sand—it’s gypsum. Shhh, I’ll take you to sleep in this white paradise, and just like that, Kara’s wheels are leaving tracks in the powdery White Sands...



So, disappointed or not disappointed? Big LOL How could I be disappointed with this mind-blowing environment? Unreal, magical—that’s the word. We barely parked haphazardly in a random lot, turned off the engine, and—boom—I’m immediately barefoot, running around like a kid in the middle of what looks like an AI-generated video. To reassure my podiatrist, thanks to its bright white color, the sand here isn’t hot, even in the middle of summer!





We wander around like this, among the dunes, with no real purpose, just to feast our wide-open eyes, pinching ourselves regularly to make sure we’re really living this dream... Until the moment comes when, with the shadows stretching dangerously, ladies and gentlemen, it’s time to claim your private dune for the final show Nature’s putting on today. Absolute silence, biting cold, powdery snow between your toes, warm light shifting from orange to blue, with pink and purple in between. Here’s the sensory rundown to give you a taste of what’s the highlight of our adventure. You can even add a little tear rolling down your face, which you can blame on either emotion or the cold—your call...





There you have it—I solemnly declare that White Sands has entered the pantheon of my top five favorite spots in the American West, which now brings the count to 72!!! The 73rd will surely come soon, but don’t rush, little impatient one, because tomorrow morning, we’ll be back at White Sands for sunrise, fresh and ready. If you want to join us again, go to bed now—the alarm’s set for 5:30 AM. We’ll save you a spot!

Amazing, Franck!

White Sands has always been on my to-do list too. Your photos are gorgeous.

You might've been cold there, but I remember during our 2015 US trip, two French tourists died of thirst there.

And thanks for this travel journal that’s showing us so many places I didn’t know about.

This road trip with Kara looks awesome.

Was wild camping allowed? Did you have to book in advance? For example, at White Sands, where did you sleep?

Hey Holi, a great spot for camping in a sand universe is in the Great Sand Dunes in Colorado… but like many American parks, it’s paid entry and you have to book ahead…

Didn’t see any campers at White Sands, but you’d need to check if it’s possible. For sleeping nearby in a motel, the closest town is Alamogordo…

@bibouns51: true, this place is insane!!

Thanks Denis!

Until this travel journal, I’d never considered this type of transport in the USA.

Not cool, Franck, making me want to travel even more.

Anyway, I mentioned Sri Lankan tuk-tuks at home, and the verdict was clear: not a chance, not even in my dreams 😏

Amazing, Franck!

White Sands has always been on my to-do list too. Your photos are gorgeous.

You were cold there, but I remember that during our 2015 US trip, two French tourists died of thirst there.

I talk about it in the next day’s post. I knew the woman from that couple personally and had helped her plan their itinerary... 😕

And thanks for this travel journal that introduced us to so many places I didn’t know about.

This road trip with Kara was really fun.

Was wild camping allowed? Did you have to book in advance? For example, at White Sands, where did you sleep?

Yeah, wild camping was allowed pretty much everywhere, but it was trickiest around White Sands. We ended up sleeping on a not-so-nice vacant lot in the outskirts of Alamogordo.

Thanks Denis!

Until this travel journal, I’d never considered this type of transport in the USA.

Not cool, Franck—planting new travel ideas in my head like that.

Anyway, I told the family about Sri Lankan tuk-tuks, and the verdict was unanimous: not a chance, not even in their dreams 😏

Have them read my Sri Lanka travel journal—they might change their minds 😛

Hello Holi, a great spot for camping in a sand universe is in the Great Sand Dunes in Colorado... but as is often the case in American parks, it's paid and you have to book in advance....

Didn't see any campers at White Sands, but you should check if it's possible. For sleeping nearby in a motel, the closest town is Alamogordo....

@bibouns51: true, this place is amazing!!

The day ahead just confirms it even more!!! 😎

Day 8 – February 21

Two numbers that set the tone for this new day: First, zero! Zero like the number of degrees when we woke up, both outside and inside. Then, seven. Seven is the time Kara will be allowed back into White Sands National Park. Speaking of Kara, no photo of her in her nightie this morning because the little rascal is keeping her dignity. After struggling to find a place to camp last night, we ended up on a vacant lot in the small town of Alamogordo...

So, just like little old folks outside the doors of a Leclerc on a Saturday morning, sweaty hands on the shopping cart waiting for it to open, we’re in pole position in front of the park barrier, sweaty hands on the wheel, ready to tackle the park’s longest hike: the Alkali Flat trail. Go, the call of contemplation won’t wait! Once on the trail, there’s a whiff of winter sports in the air. Harsh light, biting cold... and all that immaculate sand like fresh powder just begging to be messed up by our sharp skis. Uh, I mean, our hiking boots...



Once our legs are warmed up, I have a little thought for my former colleague and her husband, who died on this trail in August 2015... Under the summer sun, these dunes have the sense of humor of an oven in self-cleaning mode. For us today, no risk: February’s sun, though bright, is just gently thawing our skin... Perfect conditions to enjoy the undulating magic of these eight kilometers of white wonder. We move forward, alternating between meditative walking and exhilarating dune descents, leaving behind our footprints—ephemeral signatures—to confirm how we felt yesterday. The "Favorite" sign we waved last night wasn’t just a whim. It’s more than confirmed!

















Okay, we’ve driven a ton, we’ve marveled, we’ve bonded with the sand... but now that we’re in the middle of nowhere, what do we do? "Oh, hey, I heard there are caves to visit not far from here! - Really? - Yep, just three and a half hours away..." At this point, our sense of distance has officially gone off the rails. So, what’s another three or four hours? And a cave could mix things up, right?... Plus, wouldn’t it be fun to get a little closer to Texas?... Oh, and here’s the kicker—they’re supposedly the most beautiful caves in the world... Not to mention the entrance is included in our national parks pass... Stop right there, Brenda, all systems are go for pushing this adventure even further. Carlsbad Caverns, here we come!

So, are these precious hours devoured by the road as sleep-inducing as the last ones?... Not at all! The long ribbon of asphalt keeps stretching east, winding up into the heights of Lincoln National Forest. The altitude climbs past 2,500 meters, and suddenly we’re perched in Cloudcroft, a ski resort with a stunning view of White Sands way down in the valley...

Day 8 (continued)

Then Texas announces itself with its iconic oil wells... And then there’s a huge gaping hole in the ground: the entrance to the center of the Earth. Welcome to Carlsbad Caverns National Park! I bet the first question you’re asking is whether I can confirm these are the most beautiful caves in the world, like those pretentious Americans claim, right? Let’s get that out of the way. My answer: After seeing Carlsbad Caverns, our little Padirac chasm feels like a multipurpose community hall. After all, we’re in the U.S., aren’t we? So everything’s bigger here—whether it’s fast-food drink cups or caves like Carlsbad! More seriously, we’re not exactly underground world specialists, but what a visual punch! The entrance and descent into the beast’s lair are impressive, sure, but that’s just bat pee compared to what awaits us below: Big Room. Ali Baba’s cave! It sparkles, stalactites and stalagmites everywhere in this vast mineral cathedral. We’re sold!



















There you go, visit’s over. So, you’ve got it—time for a U-turn now that we’re at the farthest point of our epic adventure! Turn left? Head back west via the south, taking the sensible route where the thermometer’s statistically more well-behaved. Blinker right? Route through the north, gutsier this winter season but my personal preference. Just don’t attempt it unless Evelyne Dhéliat gives us the green light... Evelyne nodding enthusiastically for our delight, so it’s full steam ahead toward the red rocks. Roswell will be our first stop, where we’ll set up our traveler’s camp for the night. Maybe we’ll even meet some little green men—that’d make one heck of a story...

Thanks for this super lively travel journal!

And with spots that make you want to go, like Indian Canyons… or Chiricahua, which I’d never heard of…

When you passed through Palm Springs in February, you could’ve taken the tram to go up and switch from desert to snow in ten minutes… but you can’t do it all…

Los Angeles to White Sands... that's 1,400 km in 7 days. You're driving back to Reims? 😉

Thanks for this super lively travel journal!

And with spots that make you want to go, like Indian Canyons... or Chiricahua, which I’d never heard of before...

When you passed through Palm Springs in February, you could’ve taken the tram to go up and switch from desert to snow in ten minutes... but you can’t do it all...

Yeah, I thought about it, but the prices put me off. Nearly $40 per person...

Los Angeles - White Sands... that's 1,400 km in 7 days. You're driving back to Reims? 😉

Ahhh, American roads... I could travel just by driving on these amazing roads...

Yeah, I thought about it, but the prices put me off. Nearly $40 per person...

Wow, that’s steep... prices have really skyrocketed in the US these past few years.

And on top of that, you need some gear to climb—tried it in Converse, and yeah, those aren’t exactly snow-friendly shoes...

Yeah, I thought about it, but the prices put me off. Nearly $40 per person...

......wow, that’s steep.....prices have really skyrocketed in the US these past few years....

And on top of that, you need some gear to climb up—tried it in Converse and can confirm those aren’t snow-friendly shoes.....

Stay tuned for more, because snow’s gonna be on our route... 😛

Day 9 – February 22

"Good morning, ladies, your teleportation program went off without a hitch. You can now open your eyes and discover another marvel of the American West."



After falling asleep last night in Roswell, my all-female team wakes up with sleepy eyes in the parking lot of Bandelier National Monument, three hours north by road. Premium service—quantum travel! Handy, right? For them, absolutely! For me, a tad less so! While these lovely ladies were exploring the depths of REM sleep from the comfort of their cozy sleeping bags, I was settling into the driver’s seat of our van Kara at five in the morning with the temperature at minus thirteen degrees. Minus thirteen. That stings in alien country! ... So, I sang "I’m a lonely cowboy" all the way to the outskirts of Santa Fe, the capital of New Mexico, which is on the agenda for this afternoon. In the meantime, we’re going to stretch our legs at Bandelier National Monument, because here too, blisters the size of balloons are still a thing! There’s plenty of walking to do! Okay, but what’s there to see? To set the scene, it’s a canyon where the rock is made of volcanic tuff, naturally carved with cavities of all sizes, giving the whole place a Swiss cheese effect. But that’s not all! Before the parking lots and Visitor Center were built, Ancestral Puebloan tribes had established their villages here, using the cavities to store their supplies.









During our five-kilometer hike on the Main Loop and Alcove House Trail, we went from a wild, rocky landscape to a setting steeped in history. Another successful teleportation! And this time, everyone was involved... and wide awake!