Madeira: Between Disappointment and Enchantment (page 2 of 5)

Hi Hélène,

So glad to share these memories with you! Don’t let the title worry you too much—if there’s disappointment, there’s also plenty of magic 😉.

When it comes to heights and empty spaces, I’m with you—I’m not a huge fan either. But here, with steel cables and sturdy posts everywhere, it’s manageable. I actually had way more trouble in Scotland on narrow coastal trails with no protection at all. There are a few tricky spots like the one below, but in those cases, I just try not to overthink it, look straight ahead, and go for it .



Haha, the Empress of Austria—I know her well too, it’s Sissi! In *Sissi: Facing Her Destiny*, she stays in Madeira. I must’ve watched that movie 10 times . Unfortunately, her villa was destroyed. They built the casino in its place 😕. The statue, though, is still there. Here it is just for you as a sneak peek 😉



See you soon for the next part...

Hi JF,

What I see there really appeals to me: nice walks and landscapes

You nailed it—there’s the charm of Madeira! Even if it’s not happening right away, if you need a map or the Rother guide, just let me know when the time comes, and I can lend them to you. I also had the *Évasion* guide—it wasn’t bad at all.

And Scotland—is everything ready? Did you post your itinerary somewhere? I didn’t see it go by. No worries if not, I’ll wait for the travel journal 😉.

About the GoPro—yep, it was in the luggage. I forgot one *absolutely essential* item, though: the spare battery! Now I’m in the sorting/editing phase. Not a small task—I’ve got hours of work ahead of me!

Thanks to you 😉! Laure

Hi Liliane,

So glad you joined us! We’re just amateurs with our 7 days there. Definitely enough to do in 15 days if you hike.

we’re thinking of staying in 2 or 3 different spots

Even though the island’s small and easy to get around, I think that’s a great idea.

I’d completely forgotten there could be fog

Seems like it’s pretty common, especially on the central mountains—even in summer. The clouds come from the north, follow the slope, and cling to the peaks. Locals recommend anyone wanting to tackle the peaks should set out early in the morning.

I’m jotting down everything that might interest me

Hope you find lots of things 😉

Anyway, time for me to continue my story. See you soon

Day 3: After yesterday’s hike, our legs are a bit sore, so we scale back our ambitions. The morning is dedicated to exploring the northwest coast. We leave Funchal for ENCUMEADA, avoiding the expressways. A pretty road that winds into a deep gorge but is marred by ugly concrete scars left by ambitious excavators. What a waste!



At the pass, the road to Paul da Serra is closed (same in the other direction, just before Bica da Cana). I don’t know the reason, but it stays impassable all week. So we start with the coast and loop back via the plateau.

We head down to SAO VICENTE, determined to take the old coastal road, at least for a few stretches. Unfortunately, every access is blocked—either by a chain, concrete barriers, or even walled off! Such a letdown. We still managed a few bits on foot. The condition is terrible: landslides, falling rocks, waterfalls cascading from the black abyss onto the macadam, which is slowly giving way. It feels like the end of the world. I don’t like it. Everything is dark, everything is gray, everything seems abandoned. I’d heard this road described as a wonder! And of course, the new road with its tunnels, while safer, has zero charm.



SEIXAL doesn’t win me over on the north coast, nor does PORTO MONIZ. The town feels lifeless, all gray, its pools empty and dirty, abandoned. And always, that black rock plunging into the ocean like an unrelenting blade. Here, in this small tourist town waiting for visitors with vast concrete parking lots capable of hosting a fleet of buses, there’s not a single flowery space—a paradox for the "Island of Flowers"! In short, Porto Moniz in the off-season under gray skies isn’t showing its best side. I’m disappointed, caught up in the gloomy atmosphere. And as usual in these cases, I sulk and don’t touch my camera.

We reach SANTA and the intersection with ER 110. The road climbs, and a few kilometers later, we enter a different world: yellow steppes, bright and luminous, a few cows on the road, clouds breaking into pretty aerial swirls—it’s like Ireland!





On the roadside, in the middle of nowhere, groups are queuing—they’re waiting for the shuttle to Rabaçal and the 25 Fontes. It’s crowded, so we skip it and keep going. We stop a little further on, just before BICA DA CANA. The sun is winking at us. Off we go for the short hike BICA DA CANA TO PINNÁCULO (just a tiny stretch of PR17), pretty, cute, varied, and—best of all—deserted! We only crossed paths with three couples. This hike doesn’t have the fame of its neighbor, and I wonder why—it’s just as good!





We pass under impressive waterfalls sparkling in the sunlight, walk alongside cliffs draped in thick, soft green, climb rocks, startling a large family of lizards. Following the levada as it snakes along the hillside, hugging the curves of this bucolic valley, we reach Madeira’s "sugarloaf," the famous Pináculo. Beyond a sea of foliage, the view stretches to the ocean, while further up, the island’s peaks sketch their elegant silhouettes against the sky.





A hike we’ll rank in our Top 3. I had the 2014 Rother guide with me, but it wasn’t much help here. The start of the loop has been redone and is now well-marked with small wooden signs for PR17. Just make sure to take it in the right direction, toward Encumeada. The climb back to the road is trickier, though—the Rother guide is outdated. Mini excavators have reshaped the terrain, and lots of new plantings are in place. It’s not an issue in good weather (you can navigate by sight with the road and wind turbines in view), but it could be problematic in fog... though this is likely temporary. I regretted not planning the full PR17 for the day (17 km and over 1,000 m of elevation gain). Lack of confidence in my endurance, not enough training—if I had to do it over... It’s not fully described in the Rother guide, but you can find it online on Madeira’s official site. Plus, it’s a real loop! There aren’t many of those on Madeira.



The day isn’t over—we decide to squeeze in another short hike, about 1.5 hours, starting just a few kilometers away. We hop in the car and head to the Fanal forestry post on ER209. The spot is idyllic for a picnic: a vast stretch of soft grass, gnarled and twisted laurel trees, and banks of mist racing up the sides of this green valley. Picture-perfect—except the clouds are closing in, the mist thickening, turning into cotton wool, muffling sounds, erasing paths. The atmosphere is surreal: a dead tree, a cow moving slowly, and suddenly the fog swallows everything, even under our feet. We only make it to the small lake—a pond, really—and then turn back, soaked from all the suspended water, worried about getting lost as time ticks on.





We return to Funchal, where the sun is shining. The weather changes here are just mind-blowing. You couldn’t write a weather forecast for this place—you’d have to file it under horoscopes. In conclusion: a fantastic afternoon hike for a mediocre morning.

To be continued...😉

I get so much pleasure reading other travelers' journals...

Tell me about it! Most of the time, I just read in silence. Because of you, just before coming back here, I was checking out accommodation options in Madeira! Your travel journal makes me really want to go! Thanks. 🙂

Hi Laure, Your photos make me absolutely want to visit this part of the world that had never crossed my mind before. It’s truly spectacular, and thanks for sharing! My only problem now is that my "to-do list" just got even longer...😉 Thanks again

Hi Lol64, Your travel journal is still so interesting! And the photos bring back so many memories! Just so you know, there was a huge wave in the stream at the bottom of Encumeada with fatalities—they’re trying to clean up, but I’m afraid they’ll create a channel that lets the water rush down even faster!!! The road closure at the top of the pass is due to a landslide in a tunnel! It must be complicated to repair—has it already been a year??? On the other hand, we much preferred the north coast to the south coast because the sun was always there! Even though in Porto Moniz it was windy and a bit cloudy! But we stayed for 2 weeks and slept along the way as we traveled! Thanks for these lovely hikes we’re experiencing with you! Looking forward to the next part

Hi Laure, Great vibe, thanks for these lovely photos...🙂

Thanks for this great (start to your) travel journal. We're leaving in a month, and it gives us an excellent idea of what to do and what not to do. Do you think going to São Lourenço very early in the morning would help us avoid the crowds?

Thanks, and I can't wait for the rest! 🙂

Hi Sylvie,

We started the hike a little after 10 a.m. and I didn’t find it too crowded (mind you, I didn’t say it was deserted either 😉). In July, I think you should avoid midday hours because there’s no water or shade along the way.

Muriel

Hi Nathalie,

Bien souvent en silence

Thanks for breaking your silence to leave me a little note. It’s really nice 🙂!

A cause de toi

Oh no, say "thanks to me" instead 😉 See you soon

Hi Claude, and thanks for your comments🙂!

My only problem now is that my "to-do list" just got even longer...

I see we all have the same kind of issue 😏😉, maybe a side effect of reading VF and elsewhere... Thanks to you

Hi Marimichelle,

Thanks for the additional info. It seems this kind of accident is quite common on the island, and when you see the rock debris on the road, the state of the old tunnels, or the fragility of the hiking trails, you really understand how delicate everything is. That’s why it’s so important to be extra careful, whether you're driving or walking. In our sanitized world, we tend to think we’re invincible, but nature always has the upper hand.

we much preferred the north coast to the south coast

Well, you’ll see as you read on that I didn’t like either the north coast or the south coast, but for different reasons. What captivated me about the island were the landscapes, the deep valleys, and the high plateau. For the coasts, I’d take the Greek islands, Capri, or Corsica any day. My partner was less categorical and appreciated the wild, somewhat austere side, though he ended up agreeing with me.

But as they say, to each their own... See you in a bit for the rest! 😉

Hi Pierre, and thanks for your kind comment! 🙂 !

Thanks Muriel 🙂

Hi Sylvie,

Great, your vacation is coming up soon!

Do you think going to São Lourenço very early in the morning would help us avoid the crowds?

It’s hard to draw conclusions about the best time to visit São Lourenço. The agencies that offer group excursions seem to have specific days assigned to each destination, which leads to a lot of variation in how busy the site is from one day to the next.

We didn’t see any buses in the parking lot—it was mostly private individuals, like us, with rental cars. The walk is well-known, not too difficult, and easy to find.

I’d lean toward agreeing with Marimijean: go in the late afternoon, as late as possible. For one thing, it’ll be less hot in the middle of summer; for another, the colors will be much more flattering with the setting sun. Plus, since Germans and Brits tend to eat dinner early and the French don’t like to miss their apéritif, you might luck out with fewer people around.

If I were to do it again, I’d head out around 4–5 p.m. (and bring something in my bag to toast at the very end of the point). It must be stunning! That said, there’s no guarantee about the crowds, unfortunately.

Choose based on your own schedule, of course, and… let us know how it goes when you’re back 😉! Happy planning

(and I’d pack something to toast with at the very end of the point)

What a great idea 😎... one I hadn’t thought of (to be honest, we did all our walks in the morning, but I remember a visit to Mont Saint-Michel we did in the late afternoon on our host’s advice, and we didn’t regret it—lighting and crowds were perfect).

Muriel

Day 4: Today’s plan was the CALDEIRÃO VERDE hike (the "Green Cauldron" in English), starting from Queimadas, with an estimated 3.5-hour round trip (no other option this time). I’d planned to arrive early, but Casa da Queimadas wasn’t easy to find. I’d poorly prepared, assuming it would be signposted. Big mistake! We had to ask for directions—no small feat with only 2-3 words of Portuguese. Luckily, English and French are fairly common, and after several attempts, we finally made it—late, of course. It’s still a 40-minute drive from Funchal. No big buses in the parking lot (I can’t even imagine how they’d make it up that narrow, steep road), just a few parked cars and no one at the trailhead. Pure bliss!



A trail through the woods alongside a lovely levada, winding gently with no incline—almost too easy! Then we plunged into a wild valley. The path narrowed, a rock to navigate, a tunnel, the vegetation grew denser, birds ruled the skies, and we entered an unknown world where nature reigned supreme. Indiana Jones wasn’t far off! A waterfall, gaps in the forest with breathtaking views. We only occasionally noticed the sheer drops beside us, but the trail was perfectly safe everywhere. The finale was stunning—I won’t spoil it; go see for yourself!





It was still early, and we were enchanted by the route. A quick picnic. Should we keep going? CALDEIRÃO DO INFERNO (the "Cauldron of Hell"—yikes, things are getting tougher) starts right after, with an extra 2 hours and a small elevation gain of about 100 meters. It was also listed as closed and unsafe due to a landslide. We’re not reckless, and I’m very cautious—no way we’d take unnecessary risks. Plus, I’d read there were a series of boring tunnels and that the hike didn’t add much. Still, we decided to check it out, ready to turn back if it got too sketchy.







There was indeed a small landslide—a ten-meter stretch without safety cables or posts, but the trail was well-marked. In dry weather and with proper footwear, it wasn’t an issue. No gaping abyss either, just a slightly steeper slope. No physical or mental barriers. After that, it was pure joy! The tunnels were fun, not too long, and all different. The landscape kept changing: we climbed, squeezed through gaps, advanced to the deafening sound of a waterfall, crossed iron bridges and stone bridges. I had a blast on this stretch, and we loved it. The end might be a little less spectacular, but the journey alone was worth the extension. Caldeirão Verde & Caldeirão do Inferno ended up as our #2, just behind Pico Arieiro and *way* ahead of the famous 25 Fontes, which we’ll do at the end of the trip. Don’t hesitate—go for it! Just remember that once you reach the end, you’ll have to turn back. That’s still just under 20 km...





The afternoon was well underway, but we decided to take the scenic route back, this time comfortably in our car. Santana, São Jorge, Cabanas, Boaventura, Ponta Delgada flashed by. The north coast, but more on the east side this time. The road cut through lush vegetation, climbed green hills, wound through rock, flirted with the ocean and cliffs. In the soft light of the setting sun, this coastal drive was magical—my favorite seaside moment.





Then, back to Funchal via the expressway through São Vicente and Encumeada in just under an hour. Just before taking the expressway, west of São Vicente, the northwest coast (which we’d explored yesterday)—dark, inhospitable—loomed on the horizon, draped in wide ribbons of dark mist. What a contrast to what we’d just discovered.



Another perfect day—nothing but highlights!

I often have good ideas after the fact, unfortunately 🤪😉 !

Looking at your photos, it seems like the weather was sunnier at the very beginning of May after all!

la casa da Queimadas isn't easy to find

We didn’t find it either!... We followed the "Queimadas" sign that led us... to the Pico das Pedras parking lot 🤪. Since the two hikes could be done back-to-back, that’s what we did... but as a result, we didn’t make it all the way to Caldeirão do Inferno. And honestly, we didn’t experience the same crowd peaks—there were quite a few people on this hike (though it’s all relative), so we had to wait a while to pass through the spots where you can’t cross paths (mostly French folks, maybe this hike is mentioned in a French guidebook...).

Muriel