Istanbul Trip in 2014 (Full Story) (page 2 of 3)

On board the ferry, we're heading back to the European side of Istanbul.





And we're going to relax in this park, located below the Topkapi Palace site.







Away from the city noise, but with a beautiful view.











View from the terrace of our hotel.



Friday, March 14th, we wake up to another blue sky.



The Süleymaniye Mosque (Süleymaniye Camii in Turkish) was built for Suleiman the Magnificent.

The Süleymaniye Mosque, built by Sinan between 1550 and 1556 on a vast platform of the third hill, is considered the most beautiful in Istanbul after Hagia Sophia,















The Beyazıt Tower built in 1828. Today, Istanbul University occupies the site.



A few rare wooden houses still stand, but they’re likely doomed to disappear in the coming years...







Sunset in March around 5:00 PM.



The Grand Bazaar, a place we visited very regularly during our stay.



Dinner at our usual restaurant.



Our last full day was this Saturday, March 15th—tomorrow we’d sadly be heading back, but we wanted to make the most of this final day with the added bonus of sunshine.





Fire in the Galata Tower district—fortunately, no casualties.



Our destination that day was Pierre Loti Park in Eyüp. Here’s a tip for tourists: there are boat companies that offer tours of the Golden Horn at prices that aren’t exactly great deals.



We took the public ferry boats with locals for a very low fare, and the ride lasted a long time—the boat zigzagged, stopping on the left bank and then the right bank, and so on...

On the boat bus, we’ll spend about 1h20/1h30 making several stops—once on the right bank of the Golden Horn and once on the left, basically a zigzag route.













The terminus is the Eyüp Mosque.



The Eyüp Mosque has an inner courtyard where the mausoleum of Eyüp—also called the türbe of Eyüp—is located, which contains a footprint of the Prophet Muhammad.



After this boat ride, it’s time to grab a bite at a restaurant whose only specialty is chicken.





Next up: the climb through Eyüp Cemetery, one of the most beautiful parts of Istanbul. It’s about a 20-minute walk with no real difficulty.



The tombs are set at the top of the hill overlooking the Eyüp district.



Climbing the winding road up the hill is a unique experience. Thousands of tombs, cypress trees, and a stunning view of the Golden Horn give the whole place an indescribable atmosphere...



There are tons of cats in this area.





The café Pierre Loti was opened in his memory in the Eyüp district, on the European side of Istanbul’s heights. It’s a spot where he loved to write, reflect, and no doubt enjoy the extraordinary view of the city and the Golden Horn.



After walking up through the cemetery, we’ll take the cable car back down to our dock.



The Eyüp-Pierre Loti cable car is a monocable shuttle system built in 2005 by Leitner as part of an urban development project to improve access to the tourist sites along the Golden Horn.

Back on the boat bus heading to the Eminönü ferry terminal, still about 1h20/1h30.







The Galata Tower in the background.







We cross the Galata Bridge again...



A huge crowd on this Friday in the underground passages to the Egyptian Bazaar.





Final visit to the Egyptian Bazaar to bring back some spices and Turkish delight from our Istanbul stay.











We return to our hotel and enjoy the panorama one last time from the terrace as the sun sets.







In the early evening, we head out for a nighttime stroll in the pleasant March temperatures.

The Galata Bridge and the tower of the same name.



The Bosphorus Bridge, also called the First Bosphorus Bridge, and since July 25, 2016, the July 15 Martyrs Bridge, is one of the three suspension bridges in Istanbul.





A quick return to Istanbul station, not too crowded that evening.



On Sunday, March 16, we arrived in Istanbul in the rain on March 10, and on our departure day, the rain came back.





We took our tram to reach Istanbul Atatürk Airport.



And then a metro.







Our flight was to Munich, departing at 3:55 PM, with an expected arrival at 5:15 PM, followed by a wait until 9:10 PM to reach Lyon Saint-Exupéry.





Once above the clouds, we found the sun again.



I found this trip on the Voyages SNCF website, which no longer goes by that name but is now OUI Voyages. It cost 591.42 € for two people, including round-trip flights with Lufthansa (not a low-cost airline, meaning checked baggage and snacks on the flights), as well as 6 nights in a hotel with breakfast (both savory and sweet), a room with a shower and toilet, and Wi-Fi. While there, we spent less than 300 € on visits, bars, restaurants, and souvenir shopping. We used the Istanbulkart for public transportation.



Istanbul is a fantastic destination for at least 6 days. The people are friendly, and there’s no feeling of insecurity when walking around day or night. But Turks, especially Istanbulites, rely on us tourists to make a living.



Before finishing this story, I did some research, and on OUI Voyages, I found a similar trip with the same DARA Hotel for 650 €.

The Turkish lira (TL) has dropped significantly since our trip in 2014—it’s lost almost half its value.

In 2014: 10 TL = 3.26 €, in 2019: 10 TL = 1.67 € In 2014: 50 TL = 16.34 €, in 2019: 50 TL = 8.34 €

Thanks for this beautiful, vivid travelogue. The city has changed a lot—both literally and figuratively. I went there in a 1953 Citroën Traction Avant in 1973, pushing into Asian Turkey. I notice the monuments have been restored, and it’s become "modern"... and much wealthier. Maybe a little less "exotic"? Still, it makes me want to go back, but by plane this time. When the politics there are more peaceful. The world changes. Not my traction, safely tucked away 😊

"When the political situation there is more peaceful." What is there to worry about? Please don’t blame Middle Eastern events on Turkey. It’s much calmer and safer than big European cities.

Hi Yavuz. I don’t want to politicize the conversation—I have Turkish and Kurdish friends. And Syrians too... 😊 I avoid any country that doesn’t sufficiently respect democracy and journalists. Unfortunately, the space for traveling—not just "touristing"—is shrinking on our planet... But nothing is set in stone, and I hope for a more peaceful future.

I agree with you, but not when it comes to the dilemmas Europeans face when talking about democracy or the issue of journalists. We’re quick to criticize Turkey and start boycotting trips and visits. Since I work in tourism, I can clearly see the canceled trips to Turkey. But when it comes to countries with full democracy and human rights like Iran, Egypt, or even Syria 😅, I see sales going at full speed, multiple times a year. And then we talk about a peaceful future.

Good evening,

Turkey’s political climate isn’t any more—or less—calm than when you visited with that beautiful Citroën. The weight of ideology was just as strong back then, and freedoms were at least as limited as they are now. The difference is there weren’t political stakes—or politicians, I’d say—that make France point out supposed failings elsewhere, all to avoid measuring the weight of its own.

I’m a bit off-topic in this discussion, but I wanted to show my support for Yavuz, one of the few people here who’s actually met me.

Michel

Thanks for this beautiful, illustrated report. The city has changed in both senses of the word. I visited in a Traction Avant (pre-Citroën) from 1953 to 1973, pushing through Asian Turkey. I notice the monuments have been restored, and it’s become "modern"... and much wealthier. Maybe less "exotic"? Still, it makes me want to go back—but by plane this time. When the politics there are more settled. The world changes. Not my Traction, safely tucked away 😄

Hello. I live in France, where not everything is perfect. I’m a citizen of the world and a European. And I’m free to choose where I set foot. Without polemics and respectful of everyone’s opinions. According to the Universal Declaration of Human Rights of 1948. As for media freedom, I make it a priority criterion for my travel choices. It’s my call 😊... Among other things. That said, Turkey is a beautiful country.

Hi Michel, and thanks for your support. Since you know Turkey well, you can see the country’s behavior without prejudice. Yes, the political situation is calmer compared to the 90s, but we mustn’t forget that the people are still split 50-50, and the rivalry between modernists and conservatives continues.

But when it comes to tourism, nothing has changed—Turkey bounced back too quickly after the years of decline since 2015, and in 2018, we had over 40 million visitors, except from some Western countries.

Best, Yavuz

Hi Chris,

ISTANBUL is a fantastic destination to spend at least 6 days in. The people are friendly, and there’s no sense of insecurity when walking around day or night, but Turks—and especially Istanbulites—rely on us tourists to make a living.

I really loved your story and photos, and I can’t thank you enough for this travel journal. We’ll definitely try to make the most of it too, with a bonus 6-day trip to Cappadocia.

Thanks so much for all the info you shared.

Hi Diamina, Thanks for the comments on my travel journal. You won’t be disappointed by this amazing city—I hope you have a great trip. Best regards,

Good evening Christophe,

Thanks for this travel journal, so richly illustrated—I’d been saving it for later and just took the time to read it. I visited Istanbul for a week in May 2018 and loved this destination I’d been wanting to see for so long.

Like you, I arrived in the rain, which kind of ruined the first 2-3 days, but then the sun and blue skies settled in for good!

Your photos are great, and I see I’m not the only one snapping away at mountains of Turkish delight. 😛

I’d love to post my own trip report too, but I just haven’t had the time yet...

Stef

Hi Stéphane, thanks for your comments... it took me a while to work on this travel journal too, but now that I have a bit more time, I’m trying to catch up. My stay in Istanbul actually dates back to 2014!!!

I just got back too.

So for those planning the trip:

Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque, and Topkapi Palace are under renovation, so you only get a partial view of these monuments. No water in the Basilica Cistern—too bad for photos!

After that, there’s still plenty of other things to see.

Thanks for sharing this album! I’m heading there with a friend for the first time in October, and it’s given me tons of ideas.

Hi Béatrice, So glad my Istanbul travel journal gave you tons of ideas for your stay—that’s exactly what travel journals are for! That’s why I’ve been writing quite a few of them lately. Have a great time in Istanbul—it’s an amazing city.

Hello, Have you been to Cappadocia? I’m looking for someone who can recommend a reliable and comfortable overnight bus company (there are so many!!!). Have a great day.